Saturday, March 17, 2007

(How to) Heating Zircon

(via Wahroongai News, Volume 33, Number 7, July 1999) Mark Liccini writes:

Here is how to heat zircon. You place them flawless……must be real clean or they will crack, and even then some may crack….in a (fire-clay) crucible with activated charcoal. This can be bought from any chemical supply company for about US$30 for a small container. Activated charcoal is the best to use, but there is another way to avoid using of reductive gas. Importantly, activated charcoal will work without creating any smoke. The other way is to put sugar in the crucible, but it starts to put out a lot of smoke when you get up to temperatures of 600°C or more. Although the smoking of sugar stops around 800°C, lots and lots of smoke will be generated. Boy! I mean a lot of smoke!

Then, you then must fill the crucible with zircon and seal the crucible. A good way is window screen and just a layer of plaster (plaster-of-Paris) over the top of the screen. Let it dry; then fill in any cracks after the plaster has dried. You then take the temperature of the crucible up slowly. The slower you go, less breakage will occur….all the way to 1000°C. Hold the temperature there for 2 hours or so. The controlled rise in temperature, depending on your furnace could take all day or longer. Following heating it can take 5-6 hours to cool the crucible down to cold (room temperature). Don’t open the door while the crucible and its contents are hot, or all will crack.

Now here are some tricks of the trade.

You will observe precisely in the bottom of a sealed crucible the best blues will be found. Near the top the heat treated zircons may be white. If you rotate the zircon rough imposition and repeat the heating and cooling cycle again, the white zircons will turn blue. If you overheat the zircons (and bleach them), you can do them again and they will come back blue. Even light blues done again will change to dark blues.

Now there is a trick to produce orange and red colors. You might obtain some oranges and red on the top of a sealed crucible. Indeed, when you first open a sealed crucible you will go crazy. The whole top will be covered with red and oranges. However, beware, for after a few minutes in the air all oranges and reds will revert to white and/or light blue—except a stone or two. These are stable reds and oranges. Now to ensure a high percentage of reds and oranges do the same heat treatment without sugar (or activated charcoal) and in an open crucible.

Note: With both heat treatment methods, you will get better results with a full crucible of zircon rough. Although I have never heat treated Cambodian zircons, I have run tonnage of Nigerian and some from Tanzania and Australia.

Gigi

Memorable quote (s) from the movie:

Gigi (Leslie Caron): I don't know what you want. You told Grandmama...

Gaston (Louis Jourdan): I know what I told your grandmother. We don't have to repeat it. Just tell me simply what you don't want... and tell me what you do want.

Gigi (Leslie Caron): Do you mean that?

Gaston (Louis Jourdan): Of course.

Gigi (Leslie Caron): You told Grandmama that you wanted to take care of me.

Gaston (Louis Jourdan): To take care of you beautifully.

Gigi (Leslie Caron): Beautifully. That is, if I like it. They've pounded into my head I'm backward for my age... but I know what all this means. To take care of me beautifully means I shall go away with you... and that I shall sleep in your bed.

Gaston (Louis Jourdan): Please, Gigi. I beg of you, you embarrass me.

Gigi (Leslie Caron): You weren't embarrassed to talk to Grandmama about it. And Grandmama wasn't embarrassed to talk to me about it. But I know more than she told me. To take care of me means that I shall have my photograph in the papers. That I shall go to the Riviera. To the races at Deauville. And when we fight, it will be in all the columns the next day. And then you'd give me up, as you did with InÈs des CÈvennes.

Gaston (Louis Jourdan): Who's been filling your head with all these old stories? How do you know about that?

Gigi (Leslie Caron): Why shouldn't I know? You're world famous. I know about the woman who stole from you; the Contessa who wanted to shoot you; the American who wanted to marry you. I know what everybody knows.

Gaston (Louis Jourdan): These aren't the things we have to talk about together. That's all in the past, over and done with.

Gigi (Leslie Caron): Yes, Gaston. Until it begins again.

A Timely Warning: Pakistani Fakes

(Via Wahroongai News, Volume 33, Number 6, June 1999)

The letter reproduced below was first published in the January – February 1999 issue of The Mineralogical Record.

“I have recently returned from Northern Areas, Pakistan, where I encountered several sophisticated fake specimens. In fact, I am now the proud owner of several, having not recognized them at the time of the purchase. All of the fakes were apparently made of material from Chumar Bakhoor Nagar (the source of the specimens of aquamarine crystals on muscovite crystals). One such specimen consisting of a fairly nice green fluorite octahedron with aquamarine was obtained in the bazaar of Karimabad, Hunza. The fluorite and aquamarine is surrounded by a band of iron stained fine-grained material. This became obvious when the specimen was cleaned. Another consisted of a tabular beryl with an aquamarine crystal which, on examination, could have not grown where it was sited. This specimen fell apart, allowing me to salvage the nice tabular beryl. Another was a specimen of a pink apatite crystal in a matrix of quartz and muscovite. These last two were obtained from the site on the Karakoram Highway known as Rakaposhi Main Point. Get only photos of Rakaposhi here—the summit is 19000 feet above and seven miles horizontally from you. At last fake is really good, consisting of a fine aquamarine crystals on muscovite obtained from the hotel shop at the Riveria Hotel, Gilgit. It should be noted that some of the dealers volunteered the information that certain specimens were fake. It is likely that the dealers from whom I got some of the fakes were also conned by their sources. So all material allegedly from Chumar Bhakoor Nagar should be examined with care.”

This letter clearly reveals that even the experts get conned by the locals of the Hunza Valley. So beware.

A Rare Biological Gem Material: Aromatic Resin (Myrrh) Necklace

(via Wahroongai News, Volume 30, May 1996) Grahame Brown writes:

Myrrh, one of the three gifts to the baby Jesus by the three wise men of the Bible, is an aromatic resin produced by the desert tree Commiphora myrrha. In Western Africa the hardened resin from this tree has been hand shaped into beads to be worn for decorative or other purposes.

As determined by Robert Kammerling, and described in the Fall 95 issue of Gems & Gemology (p.210), this very rare biological gem material has the following properties.

Hardness: scratched with fingernail (<2½)
Fracture: granular
Color: yellowish brown to brown
Diaphenity: translucent
Specific gravity: 1.27
Spot refractive index: 1.40
Fluorescence: LW UV (moderate, even, chalky yellow); SW UV (weak, even, chalky yellow)
Absorption spectrum (visible): cut off at 430nm
Absorption spectrum (infrared): broad peaks at 5180, 4778, 4000 cm ¯¹, sharp peaks at 4339 and 4252 cm ¯¹
Thermal stability: readily melts
Characteristic odor: sweet and spicy odor following abrasion and / or rubbing.

Rocks, Minerals & Gemstones

By I.O.Evans
The Hamlyn Publishing Group Ltd
1972 ISBN 0-600-37537-4

The Hamlyn Publishing Group writes:

Everybody, at one time or another, has stopped in their tracks, bent down and picked up a beautifully colored or curiously shaped fragment of stone and marveled at the artistry of nature. Prehistoric man was no exception and it was not long before he realized too, the many uses to which he could put the rocks, their minerals and the gemstones. Since then man has become more and more dependent on the minerals he extracts from the Earth’s crust and today these and their derivatives make up a bewildering variety of familiar everyday objects—from out nuts and bolts and diamond rings to our computers and supersonic jet aircraft. In fact civilization as we known it is completely reliant on rocks and minerals and so their importance in our lives, and the effect that the depletion of mineral resources could have on our future, is considerable.

This book presents a broad illustrated survey of the rocks, their constituent minerals and the gemstones. The nature of the rocks, their composition and the way in which they affect the build of the countryside is discussed first (including a consideration of rocks from outer space), and then the extraction techniques of the more important mineral ores are explained, together with a summary of mineral characteristics and the various crystal systems in which minerals form. A selection of the most important and most interesting minerals then follows and details are given for each of its properties, mode of occurrence, characteristics and uses. Gemstones are discussed at length and interesting aspects range from fascinating details of diamond extraction and cutting to descriptions of gemstones of organic origin. A final very useful section deals with the practical possibilities for the rock and mineral enthusiast and includes much advice on how to collect, identify and enjoy mineral specimens.

A very readable, non-technical text is supplemented by a fine collection of over one hundred excellent photographs, thirty of which are in full color.

Friday, March 16, 2007

An Alternative African Source Of Vegetable Ivory

(Wahroongai News, Volume 30, No.7, July 1996) Grahame Brown writes:

Vegetable ivory, a long used effective imitation for elephant ivory, is derived from the dried nuts of several species of palm tree. The common commercial source of vegetable ivory is the Corozo or Tagua palm (Phytelephas macrocarpa) from Central America and northern South America. This ivory colored vegetable material (nut) has a hardness of 2½, a specific gravity of 1.40 – 1.43, a spot refractive index of 1.54, and in hand specimen displays the polygonal outlines of its component plant cells.

Another source of African vegetable ivory was suggested by Webster to be the Doum or Gingerbread palm (Hyphaene thebaica) of north and central Africa. According to the 5th edition of Webster’s Gems, the rounded nuts of this palm have a reddish brown skin, and edible underlying spongy layer which is commonly converted into an alcoholic beverage, and a hard inner seed (the source of vegetable ivory).

A recent purchased guide, The Shell Field Guide to the Common Trees of the Okavango Delta and the Moremi Game Reserve, by Veronica Roodt, has provided some additional details about the African source of vegetable ivory.

According to Dr Roodt, the source of vegetable ivory in the Okavango Delta—a wildlife and vegetation-rich area of 18000 km² that is the terminus of the Cubango River in Botswana—is the Real Fan Palm (Hyphanae petersania). This majestic tree grows to a height of 20m, and has a bare stem crowned by arched fan-shaped green leaves.

The tennis ball sized fruits of this palm take 2 years to mature, and up to 2 years to fall. Consequently, this palm is decorated with fruit throughout the year. The nuts of the Real Fan Palm yield a whitish milk, that resembles and tastes like coconut milk, once the hard exocarp of the nut has been fractured. The external pulp of the nut is edible, and tastes like gingerbread. It may be fermented into a very potent palm wine. The hard, hollow internal endosperm of the nut is the source of vegetable ivory.

Elephants play a major role in the dispersion of the seeds of this palm, for elephants love the taste of these nuts. The endosperm (vegetable ivory) passes through the elephant’s digestive tract unscathed and may be collected from the animal’s faeces (as large brownish furry tennis balls). If the nuts are not harvested, the faeces act as a natural fertilizer to hasten the germination of seeds.

So, there you have it; an African source of vegetable ivory confirmed, and correctly assigned to source.

The Thomas Crown Affair

Memorable quote (s) from the movie:

The Psychiatrist (Faye Dunaway): I want you to talk about women. Mr. Crown?

Thomas Crown (Pierce Brosnan): I'm sorry?

The Psychiatrist (Faye Dunaway) : Women. You get to talk about women.

Thomas Crown (Pierce Brosnan): Oh, I enjoy women.

The Psychiatrist (Faye Dunaway): Enjoyment isn't intimacy.

Thomas Crown (Pierce Brosnan): And intimacy isn't necessarily enjoyment.

The Psychiatrist (Faye Dunaway): How would you know? Has it occurred to you that you have a problem with trust?

Thomas Crown (Pierce Brosnan): I trust myself implicitly.

The Psychiatrist (Faye Dunaway): But can other people trust you?

Thomas Crown (Pierce Brosnan): Oh, you mean society at large?

The Psychiatrist (Faye Dunaway): I mean women, Mr.Crown.

Thomas Crown (Pierce Brosnan) : Yes, a woman could trust me.

The Psychiatrist (Faye Dunaway): Good. Under what extraordinary circumstances would you allow that to happen?

Thomas Crown (Pierce Brosnan): A woman could trust me as long as her interests didn't run too contrary to my own.

The Psychiatrist (Faye Dunaway): And society? If its interests should run counter to your own?

How Can You Take Good Care Of Your Pearl

(Wahroongai News, Volume 28, No.6, June 1994) H Komatsu writes:

How to take good care of pearl can be summarized into the following 4 points:

1. After wearing your pearl, you make it a custom to clean and dry it with a soft cloth, and keep it in a jewelry box. This is to prevent from the dullness of pearl luster from perspiration or cosmetic.

2. Your pearl should not touch with other jewelries such as diamonds, precious stones, gold jewelry, etc otherwise, some flaws might occur on the surface of your pearl.

3. Your pearl should not be exposed to light while it is kept, because light might make it yellowish after many years.

4. Your pearl should avoid extreme dryness and humidity; otherwise, cracks might occur after many years.

What is most important among the above 4 points is (1), that is, to clean and dry your pearl with a cloth after you wear it.

A pearl is far stronger than a marble.
The principle ingredient of a pearl and a marble consist of calcium carbonate, or a sort of calcium crystallization. It is reported that a marble is damaged by acid rain in Europe. Grand edifices and sculptures made of marbles are exposed to weather in ancient European cities, such as Paris, Rome, etc. And those historical structures are deformed, being melted by acid rain caused by waste gas from automobiles. Calcium carbonate is strong and solid crystallization, but it is melted by chemical reaction when influenced by acidity. On the other hand, the principal ingredient of a pearl is calcium carbonate, but the structure of its principal ingredient is greatly different from a marble. A marble is simply a mass of crystallization, but a pearl appears to be tiny bricks which are visible only with an electron microscope. Pearl nacre composes of many, many brick-looking materials. As a matter of fact, a pearl of 7mm composes of 220, 000, 000, 000 bricks. To our further surprise, every brick is covered up with a protein film. Generally speaking, protein is strong against acidity, and a pearl covered with a protein film is much stronger than a marble.

The surface of a pearl will become clouded with perspiration.
Since a brick near the surface of a pearl is exposed to the air and touches with your skin, its protein film may be damaged and it may become melted with acidity, such as perspiration and cosmetic. When a brick becomes melted, the surfaces of a pearl become uneven, though it is a micron in size, and loses its luster, which is called ‘cloudy phenomenon’. The same principle applies for a frosted glass which becomes clouded when a flaw or unevenness is found on the surface of a transparent glass.

It is easy to make clouded surface clean by cutting and polishing its surface.
Cloudy surface appears to be very serious when you notice it one day. You will be shocked to find powdery materials or white cloud on the surface of your pearl. However, it is easy to solve the above problem. By principle, we can remove one brick with flaws on the surface, and take out a new brick below the old one. You can restore pearl luster by polishing its surface with a cloth containing an ordinary abrasive. Since the thickness of a brick is 0.5 micron, you can feel relieved that cutting off such thickness does not reduce the size of your pearl.

To clean and dry your pearl with a cloth is the fundamental rule regarding how to take good care of your pearl.

We advise you not to have your pearl clouded, though you will be able to restore it. There will be two methods:

- To stay away from acidity. In case of a pearl jewelry, it is impossible to do so unless it is coated with special chemical, because you wear it on your skin.

- To remove acidity. The only method will be to remove perspiration and cosmetic on the surface of a pearl. Any soft cloth will do, but strictly speaking, the cloth which is suitable for soaking up the chief ingredient of perspiration, that is, water and oil, will be the best.

A pearl is one of the softest gems.
According to Mohs hardness index, a pearl is harder than a marble, but it is softer than any other gems. It is true that the hardness index of a pearl, which is 4.5, creates its unique luster, but we advise you not to mix it with other gems in a jewelry box.

Let’s not get your pearl sunburnt.
As we told you, pearl brick is covered up with a protein in film. This protein film will become yellowish and get sunburnt. This is the same principle with human beings becoming sunburnt in the sun. However, in case of a pearl, it takes many decades before it becomes discolored. You need not worry much about it so far as your pearl is carefully kept in a jewelry box.

A pearl is breathing.
Furthermore, water inside a pearl is actively moving around. When water inside becomes dry, it will get outside. Then, a pearl will become dry up, and lose its transparency, and may get cracked. On the other hand, when water becomes wet, it will get inside. Then, the protein film will get melted. Therefore, your pearl should be kept at a certain moderate state, not in too high nor too low humidity.

In conclusion, we would like to advise you to keep your pearl in a jewelry box which is designed to function, adjusting humidity naturally.

Mtorolite

(via Wahroongai News, Vol 30, No.4, April, 1996) Grahame Brown writes:

Mtorolite is a rare green chrome chalcedony that occurs in one location in the world: Zimbabwe. Here it occurs as horizontally pitched veins that intrude decomposed serpentine bordering the Great Dyke. Although commercially mined out, it is considered that significant reserves remain to challenge the diligent fossicker. Better quality mtorolite can be faceted; but mostly this attractive chrome chalcedony is cabochoned or carved.

According to Ian Campbel (pp 19-23) in the October 95 issue of The South African Gemmologist, mtorolite was named for the Mtoroshanga of Zimbabwe, the district that hosts the only known occurrence of this gem material in the world. The greenish hues possible in this chalcedony depend on its Cr:Ni content, while the saturation of its green color depends of its Cr content. For example, dark green good quality evenly colored mtorolite has 0.04% Cr and 0.02% Ni, while pale green variegated mtorolite has 0.205 Cr and <0.01% Ni.

Mtorolite has colors that vary from a saturated chrome green to pale grayish green hue; a specific gravity of 2.57 – 2.60; a spot RI of 1.54. It has a pinkish to reddish Chelsea Filter reaction and is inert to both LW and SW UV.

The World’s Finest Minerals And Crystals

By Peter Bancroft
The Viking Press, Inc
1973 SBN 670-79022-2

The Viking Press writes:

The collecting, cutting and polishing of minerals is one of the largest and fastest growing hobbies in the world. In spite of the wide popularity of this activity and the generations of scientific study devoted to mineralogy, there is no known formula for determining the best example of a particular mineral species. Rare and valuable specimens of legendary beauty are scattered n collections around the world. Some are in museums where they may be enjoyed by those people lucky enough to be able to travel to see them; others are in private hands and are seldom seen by the public.

In The World’s Finest Minerals and Crystals, Dr Peter Bancroft has brought together a series of magnificent photographs of outstanding minerals nominated for acclaim by enthusiasts all over the world. A distinguished international panel of judges has participated in choosing the very finest examples for inclusions in the Gallery of plates. In his text, Dr Bancroft tells just how this gallery was selected. He explains how minerals are formed and where they are found, and how some of the world’s finest collections were begun. Modern methods of collecting and conservation are also discussed. Fine minerals are growing increasingly rare, and Dr Bancroft reviews the dangers that threaten both natural sources and specimens already housed in important collections. The notes that accompany each plate describe the history and characteristics of the pictured specimen, tell where other fine examples may be seen, and describe the locations around the globe in which these minerals originate.

The book provides a unique opportunity to view the world’s greatest mineral treasures brought together in a superb gallery of photographs that bring out all the rich glow and sparkle of the originals, and the text takes the reader adventuring abroad to exotic locations in the fascinating realm of mineral collection.

About the author
Dr Peter Bancroft is a collector of minerals, and has lectured in mineralogy in the United States, Bolivia, Brazil, and Australia and has contributed articles to Lapidary Journal and other magazines in this field.

Thursday, March 15, 2007

How Do You Value A "Free" Customer?

Sometimes a valuable customer may be the person who never buys a thing, but in a networked setting a free customer may have considerable influence.

Read on to learn more @ http://hbswk.hbs.edu/item/5595.html

The Aviator

Memorable quote (s) from the movie:

Professor Fitz (Ian Holm): Well, the cumulonimbus formations about which you speak that look like...

Howard Hughes (Leonardo DiCaprio): Giant breasts full of milk. I want clouds, damn it.

Professor Fitz (Ian Holm): Yes, clouds that look like giant breasts full of milk, cannot exactly be guaranteed for any particular occasion. So you might have to... to wait.

Howard Hughes (Leonardo DiCaprio): Then we'll wait. Look, whatever they pay you at UCLA I'm doubling it, all right? You work for me now. Find some clouds. Find some clouds! Find me some clouds!

Hell's Angels Pilot (Justin Shilton): Welcome to Hell's Angels.

Pocket LED Light Sources For Gemologists

(via The Canadian Gemmologist)

Significant strides have been made in the quality and availability of pocket sized LED applications for gemological applications. Conventional lighting is by no means obsolete in the study of gemology. But now with so many models from which to choose, pocket LED light sources certainly have their place.

Read on to learn more @
www.equipped.com/led_lights.htm
http://www.howstuffworks.com
http://www.led-lenser.com
http://www.leevalley.com
http://www.nichia.co.jp
http://www.photonlight.com
www.physics.ubc.ca/~outreach/phys420/p420_95/mark/htheory.html
http://www.scotgem.demon.co.uk

Contact Sources In Canada
Active Surplus, 347 Queen St. W., Toronto. 416-593-0909
-Electronic components, including diodes; Pocket laser pointers; Scientific glassware such as Petri dishes, beakers, etc.

Canadian Gemmological Association, 1767 Avenue Rd, Toronto. 416-785-0962
-Nebula LW UV pocket LED

Efstonscience, 3350 Dufferin St., Toronto. 1-800-777-5255 for mail order
-Electronic components, including colored diodes by special request; Laser pocket LEDs; LW UV pocket LED

Marathon Sports Ltd., 367 King St. W., Toronto. 416-593-5850
-A good selection of Photon®Microlights (LW UV by request)

Mountain Equipment Co-op, 400 King St. W., Toronto. 416-340-2667
-Photon®I Microlight only (white, blue, yellow, red)

Lee Valley Tools, various locations. 1-800-267-8767 for mail order in Canada.
-Photonpump®VI Moonlenser in white, blue and red; Flexible Neck Lamps in white, large and small models

Vistek, 496 Queens St. E., Toronto. 416-365-1777
- Lee Filters Series of photographic gels

Contemporary Costume Jewelry

By Elyse Sommer
George Allen & Unwin Ltd
1974 ISBN 0-04730026-4

George Allen & Unwin writes:

For anyone who wants to create stunning and imaginative jewelry with a minimum of skill and expense, Elyse Sommer’s new book provides a wealth of inspiring ideas. Here, in a new look at an ancient craft, the author explores the infinite potential of jewelry making, revealing how a combination of unusual methods and materials can work for the artist to give fullest expression to his ideas. The beginner is launched into creative designing with some eye-opening suggestions for recycling antique store and flea market items such as ivory piano keys, crystal chandelier parts and brass stampings into charming and sophisticated jewelry worthy of the most elegant boutique.

The budding jeweler is told where to find and how to use the proper stringing materials and findings; drilling, sawing, bending, and finishing tools. A discussion of solderless methods, including a multimedia adhesive chart, completes this definitive chapter on tools and supplies. The author then goes on to introduce some of the most popular materials with which to create multimedia jewelry. She describes with the help of invaluable step-by-step photographs, the most common wire-working techniques, such as bending, twisting, looping, hammering, and wire crocheting. Demonstration projects range from a simple wire choker to beautiful necklaces and earrings of twisted wire and beads.

Metal jewelry examples include objects of copper, brass and silver being cut, pierced, shaped, filed, and inlaid to produce gorgeous body ornaments. The author shows why wood is such a versatile medium, lending itself to the creating of alluring pendants, brilliantly dyed beads, even combs and miniature sculptures to wear. Other media extensively discussed are glass, plastics, clay (firing and non-firing), fabrics, fibers, leather, paper, and natural materials.

Contemporary Costume Jewelry is the ideal book for all artists and craftsmen, experienced or not, who would like to fashion one-of-a-kind jewelry from simple materials. Whether it is a silver ring accented with a touch of tooled copper; a necklace made of felt patchwork, embroidered burlap or wrapped yarn; a watchcase made from a real eggshell; a bold and daring papier-mache necklace; or a pendant made from an old ivory mah-jongg tile, a host of exquisite creations await the follower of Elyse Sommer’s clear and easy-to-follow instructions.

Wednesday, March 14, 2007

A History Told In Beads

Two Pakistani artisans explain and demonstrate the time and energy involved in their bead making. They can make copies of ancient beads with the same quality of the originals. This is good news, because this helps collectors get very good replicas without having to loot archaeological sites.

Read on to learn more @ http://www.lapidaryjournal.com/feature/299str.cfm

L.A. Confidential

Memorable quote (s) from the movie:

Sid Hudgens (Danny DeVito): Off the record, on the QT, and very hush-hush. Come to Los Angeles! The sun shines bright, the beaches are wide and inviting, and the orange groves stretch as far as the eye can see. There are jobs aplenty, and land is cheap. Every working man can have his own house, and inside every house, a happy, all-American family. You can have all this, and who knows... you could even be discovered, become a movie star... or at least see one. Life is good in Los Angeles... it's paradise on Earth." Ha ha ha ha. That's what they tell you, anyway.

Race To The Bottom

A veteran Australian prospector and onetime dotcom entrepreneur is planning to scoop precious metals from the bottom of the ocean. He believes that it’s also the solution to all the ills that land-based mining has caused.

Read on to learn more @ http://www.wired.com/wired/archive/15.03/undersea.html

Jewelry By Architects

By Barbara Radice
Rizzoli International Publications, Inc
1987 ISBN 0-8478-0798-3

Barbara Radice writes:

The pieces of jewelry presented in this book have been designed from Cleto Munari by sixteen architects from all over the world during a span of four years. Munari has been promoting works of design for more than ten years. His curriculum vitae, from his debut with the gold and silver cutlery designed by Carlo Scarpa to the present day, has maintained his reputation as an adventurous entrepreneur.

The jewelry project began almost by chance in 1982 when Munari asked Michele De Lucchi to design a ring for his wife Valentina, and soon after made a similar request of Sottsass. Enchanted with the first designs and prototypes, Munari became more and more enthusiastically involved in assembling an increasingly international collection, to the point of setting up a small company to employ goldsmiths with the exclusive task of producing the pieces by hand as they were designed by various architects. Today the collection comprises over one hundred fifty pieces and, quite apart from its worth in gold, gems, and craftsmanship, it cost in patience, dedication, and astuteness, indispensable skills when it came not only to dealing with extremely busy architects but also to convincing them to divert their talents from their customary obsession and devote them to secondary activities.

When talking of very famous architects, no more than about thirty names are likely to be raised. They are the same names that come up again and again on the panels of international shows and competitions, the same who exchange polite criticisms and views in the pages of newspapers. They are the beloved protagonists of the great architectural telenovela incessantly fueled by corporate and society gossip broadcast by magazines and reviews and echoed by students, intellectuals, and pursuers of celebrities.

There is no cultural event of significance that can do without their very special presence, support, or advice. Their success as a category is perhaps due to the fact that they are forced by circumstances to be at the same time artists, intellectuals, businessmen, and managers. They are not always able to pull this off but it does make them into the most complex, protean Renaissance figures in the whole professional scene.

Big architects are often progressive intellectuals; even those regarded as more conservative always manage to cultivate some fad or snobbism that sets them apart. In general, they are better dressed than artists, travel a great deal and are always calling each other on the phone. When they are not talking about the financial problems which eternally afflict them or about work, they know how to have a good time and are open to adventure. They can be recognized by a special quality in their gaze, conveying an amused, cynical detachment, and by the sly smile of those who possess secret information.

The fifteen architects (Peter Shire is a designer) who have designed jewelry for Cleto Munari are all renowned; many of them are real superstars. It is no coincidence that the collection is a rather extraordinary event. It represents the debut of postmodernism in the jeweler’s craft, or, if you like, the first true figurative modernization of jewelry design as an applied art since the twenties and thirties. The creative exploits of artists like Calder or Picasso, Man Ray, De Chirico, Braque, Dali, Fontana or Stella in this field have never succeeded in creating a new trend in the design of jewelry or to alter its figurative canons in the way that the historical avante-garde movements did at the beginning of the century.

Like all postmodern phenomena, the collection, made up of figurative and abstract pieces that are architectonic, symbolic, or ritual to varying degrees, is figuratively heterogeneous but homogeneous in its intellectual approach to the theme, in the eclecticism of the solutions and in the curious uniformity of the materials used: almost exclusively yellow gold and semi-precious stones, apart from the odd ironical touch provided by some synthetic gemstone or slab of small brilliants used as a luminous plane in the combination with other volumes.

The spurning of precious stones, already given a clear thumbs down by the masters of Art Deco, is a rejection of the status symbol based on cost and a reaffirmation of the superior power and value of the design over that of gems, as was the case during the Renaissance.

The architects have designed their jewelry as a formal exercise, as an extension of their work with architecture. They have conceived them as purely decorative objects or as talismans charged with symbolic meaning. Perhaps the most fascinating thing about these one hundred and fifty odd pieces of jewelry is that they have nothing to do with any other set of jewelry designed over the last two thousand years. On the other hand they have an affinity with, if not a real resemblance to, other much more ancient examples of jewelry, such as Sumerian or Minoan, or primitive ornaments from Africa or Melanesia. They draw on the most distant past, a past that is mysterious because it is forgotten. They do not repeat styles but seek out ritual cadences, concealed fragilities, tenuous figurative suggestions, or powerful and solemn forms.

They are very moving objects, serious, intense, even nostalgic. Whatever their origin or inspiration, they translate into gold the most advanced figurative research of the last twenty years.

About the author
Barbara Radice is the author of Memphis, published by Rizzoli in 1984.

Tuesday, March 13, 2007

Reinventing The Wheel: The OMF Concave Factor

(via Lapidary Journal, November 1997) Andy Oriel writes:

The story of the concave faceting machine is a revolutionary one—which could be said about any machine that revolves on several axes. But in the case of the OMF faceters, which stands for optically magnified facets, the description is justified.

Developed about 10 (20) years ago by Dough Hoffman of Polymetric Instruments, the machine is capable of cutting both concave and convex facets. Instead of grinding a stone against a flat lap as in conventional faceting, concave facets are ground against rotating copper and plastic cylinders of varying diameters, which are charged with abrasive compounds and move forward and back to prevent grooving.

“There are two main benefits to concave faceting,” says gem artists Mark Gronlund, slipping into teaching mode. “The first is the ability to cut new and unusual shapes. With flat facets you’re limited to shapes like rounds, ovals, marquise, and emeralds. But with the combination of flat and concave faceting, there are almost no limitations to shapes or girdle outlines.

“The second benefit,” he explains, “is an increase in the brilliance of a stone.” In a conventional stone, when light enters through the table and hit a pavilion facet, it is reflected in only one direction. By contrast, with a concave pavilion, which from the top of the stone appears as a convex surface, the light is scattered in many directions.

“Basically what we are doing is putting a bunch of magnifiers and diffusers into a stone, like little eyeglass lenses,” he says. “The convex surfaces focus light and the concave surfaces diffuse it.”

“Flat faceting is a three-step process with a rough cut, a final cut, and then polishing. With concave faceting, you still have to lay in all the flat faces first—the same first two steps. But then you transfer the interchangeable mast from the faceting machine to the OMF for an additional three to sometimes six more steps.”

If it sounds complex, it is. Suffice it to say that concave cut stones are several magnitudes brighter than normal, as if fire works were going off inside them; they appear to have many more facets than they actually have; and they tend to look slightly darker than otherwise, all of which have thrown the traditional colored stone industry a curve ball.

Less valuable stones, such as citrines and light aquamarines, are transformed from bridesmaid into blushing brides. A happy side effect of the phenomenon is that a cutter’s budget for rough is considerably stretched. And from the buyer’s point of view, large, precision-cut stones can be purchased for the price of mediocre, more traditionally precious ones.

There are imitations, however. Already dark stones, such as garnets and sapphires, tend not to benefit from the treatment. And small stones tend to become overly busy-looking like gliding a lily.

Gigi

Memorable quote (s) from the movie:

Gigi (Leslie Caron): Who gave it to you, Aunt?

Aunt Alicia (Isabel Jeans): A King

Gigi (Leslie Caron): A great king?

Aunt Alicia (Isabel Jeans): No, a little one. Great kings do not give very large stones.

Gigi (Leslie Caron): Why not?

Aunt Alicia (Isabel Jeans): In my opinion it's because they don't feel they have to.

Gigi (Leslie Caron): Well, who does give the valuable jewels?

Aunt Alicia (Isabel Jeans): Who? Oh the shy, the proud, and the social climbers because they think it's a sign of culture; But it doesn't matter who gives them, as long as you never wear anything second rate. Wait for the first class jewels Gigi. Hold on to your ideals.

The Truth About Gemstone Smuggling

Gem smuggling requires patience, knowledge of local and international customs and traditions, special skills to locate the source and find local and international buyers, the ability to collect money on time so that you are able to continue your ‘creative’ trading practices for a living. Some may do it for fun, but most transactions are serious businesses. Law enforcement agencies around the world may care about gem smuggling when it is linked to terrorism, money laundering, drug smuggling or organized crime. Smuggled gems are sometimes discovered in connection to one of these activities, but gem smuggling by itself is a relatively low priority. The situation is compounded because of the inability to ascertain the origin of stones.

Read on to learn more @ http://www.colored-stone.com/stories/jul04/smuggling.cfm

Turquoise: The Gem Of The Centuries

By Oscar T Branson
Treasure Chest Publications, Inc
1975

Oscar T Branson writes:

There is a haunting fascination to turquoise, a feeling that takes hold of a person who comes in contact with it for a time. This fascination has been the same down through the centuries and its popularity has spread through many countries of the world. The Egyptians some 70 centuries ago were captivated by it. The evidence is a bracelet of carved turquoise and gold found on the mummified arm of an Egyptian queen. This is the oldest known example of jewelry and was made over seven thousand years ago. For the next several thousand years the Pharaohs sent expeditions of hundreds of men into the Sinai Desert to mine this coveted stone. It was used in almost every decorative way imaginable from beads in jewelry to the lavish decoration of sarcophagi. The Egyptian tombs with their hoards of gold were too great a temptation to looters and thieves and consequently there is pitifully little left for us to see.

In Persia the earliest mention of turquoise is in a story about the mine of Isaac, the father of Israel, who lived about 2100 B.C. Turquoise has been mined in Persia since before that time. It was used as lavishly in Persia as it was in Egypt. Persian writings tell of large vases carved from huge pieces of turquoise. One of the largest had the capacity of six gallons.

The origin of the use of turquoise in Tibet is thought to be very early as the Tibetan word for it is original and not borrowed from another language, as it has been in most languages. Practically everyone in Tibet has a love for turquoise; in fact this fascination almost amounts to a mania.

In China turquoise was used in very early times and much has always been worn in jewelry. Large quantities were made into beads and traded into Mongolia, Tibet and other countries. This is also done today. Due to the occurrence in China of large pieces of turquoise of carving quality, the stone gained an ornamental status. Many carvings of large size are known and some are still being made. The Chinese are greatly fascinated by turquoise, and to them it is second only to jade.

In our own Southwest, turquoise mines were worked by Indians before the time of Christ. In fact many of the mines that are producing today were worked in prehistoric times. Here in America today thousands of people are becoming aware of it and the old fascination is taking hold. Down through the ages and especially now, fine gems and jewelry have been a commodity more stable than money. In other words it is and always has been a good investment. Turquoise and silver jewelry is a pleasure to wear and enjoy. While one is enjoying it, they are aware that is something of value, both intrinsic and esthetic.

Some people think turquoise is a fad. If this is so, it has been a fad for over 7000 years.

Monday, March 12, 2007

The Truth About Gemstone Smuggling

Gem smuggling requires patience, knowledge of local and international customs and traditions, special skills to locate the source and find local and international buyers, the ability to collect money on time so that you are able to continue your ‘creative’ trading practices for a living. Some may do it for fun, but most transactions are serious businesses. Law enforcement agencies around the world may care about gem smuggling when it is linked to terrorism, money laundering, drug smuggling or organized crime. Smuggled gems are sometimes discovered in connection to one of these activities, but gem smuggling by itself is a relatively low priority. The situation is compounded because of the inability to ascertain the origin of stones.

Read on to learn more @ http://www.colored-stone.com/stories/jul04/smuggling.cfm

Looking One Use For Those Old CDs?

(via November 2001 Colorado Springs’ “Pick & Pack”, volume 41, number 9) Lapidary Journal writes:

Try using them for the final polish on your faceting machine. Rinse with water and a little detergent, then place it on top of the last cutting wheel. Center it reasonably well, as the hole is slightly larger than the shaft; then clamp it down. Spray the surface with 14000-grit diamond polishing compound; the charged CD should polish several stones.

Magnolia

Memorable quote (s) from the movie:

Narrator (Ricky Jay): And there is the account of the hanging of three men, and a scuba diver, and a suicide. There are stories of coincidence and chance, and intersections and strange things told, and which is which and who only knows? And we generally say, "Well, if that was in a movie, I wouldn't believe it." Someone's so-and-so met someone else's so-and-so and so on. And it is in the humble opinion of this narrator that strange things happen all the time. And so it goes, and so it goes. And the book says, "We may be through with the past, but the past ain't through with us."

Buying Gemstones In Brazil

The article highlights the perils of buying colored gemstones in Brazil. People who visit Brazil buy colored gemstones with or without product knowledge. In all gem producing countries in the world, glass and synthetic corundum are the two most frequently encountered fakes. Even experts get taken for a ride because the fakes look so good. Sometimes we are distracted by other events when buying gemstones and become victims of ‘momentary autism’.

Read on to learn more……

(via The Canadian Gemmologist, Volume XII, Number 1, Spring 1991)
Some Fake Gems On The Brazilian Market And How To Identify Them
Joachim Karfunkel, Reinhard R Wenger, Wolney Lobato writes:

Abstract
After 15 years experience in the Brazilian gem market, the authors suggest a simple ‘micro-lab’ for the detection of imitations and falsifications. Descriptions of some of the most common fakes in cut stones, rough material, and specimens for collectors are given. Simple means for distinguishing them from genuine pieces are discussed.

Introduction
Brazil, a paradise on earth for gems, is also a territory with one of the highest incidences of gem and mineral falsifications. The story of imitations or fakes in gemology is probably as old as the first uses of minerals and similar materials for personal adornment. Webster (1983) writes: “It is, however, faience, a glazed siliceous ware made in Egypt as long ago as pre-dynastic times (before 4777 B.C) which is the more important as a beginning of imitation gemstones.”

We can define imitation as any substance used as a substitute for natural gem that fails to duplicate its composition, structure, and properties. Imitations aim to replace a gem with another cheaper material, which has a similar appearance, but different physical and chemical properties. Those imitations which have the purpose of misleading are called falsifications or fakes. To this group we could also add gems that have been treated to enhance their appearance, and supposed value, but which fade or change with time. Knowledge of these treatments should not be withheld from buyers. Further information on synthetics and gemstone enhancement can be found in Nassau, 1980, 1984.

The market for imitations in Brazil is huge, since most people there can’t afford to buy genuine gemstones. Similarly a metal other than gold is frequently used for settings. Imitations may be sold as genuine, and some regard the Brazilian market as a ‘cheating’ market. We want to emphasize that most of the Brazilian stone dealers are honest. Those few who want to mislead, however, sell their wares to everybody, including friends and even relatives! The problem is increased by lack of gemological education. The basic equipment is the human eye, sometimes aided with tweezers and a loupe. Most of those who possess a polariscope, dichroscope, refractometer, or microscope, usually don’t know how to use them. They sell the stones they bought believing truly that the stones are genuine.

The Micro-Lab
Many tourists, gem dealers and collectors prefer to buy in the interior of Brazil, rather than in the capitals like Belo Horizonte, Rio de Janeiro, Sao Paulo, Salvador, Fortaleza, or Porto Alegre. Obviously, it is very difficult to travel with a complete laboratory. We do not wish to imply that sophisticated equipment like refractometers, microscopes or spectroscopes is not important, but the tourist or collector often can’t afford such things, nor is it always possible to carry them in the field. Instead, we suggest a simple, cheap ‘micro-lab’ consisting of tweezers, loupe, polariscope, heavy liquid, and a hardness scale. Simple equipment can be effective when you understand how to use it.

Commercial polariscopes are usually expensive—why not build your own? Just buy a piece of Polaroid plastic and cut it into pieces about 2” square. Make a small stand (out of any kind of transparent, firm plastic), and glue the polaroid pieces on each side with the vibration directions perpendicular to each other. This polariscope may be used in the same manner as a conventional one. Place a light source (bulb, sunlight or torch) as near as possible to the polariscope. Hold the stone (rough or cut) between the filters with a hand or tweezers; rotate the stone, the polariscope or both, and observe the behavior (isotropic or anisotropic).

Heavy liquids are generally not cheap, but bromoform with a specific gravity of 2.83 at 15ºC can be acquired at relatively low cost. It should be emphasized that bromoform is a toxic substance, to be used only in a well ventilated area. Some practice is required to accurately estimate specific gravity, but the test is quick and even small stones (less than 0.5ct) may be measured accurately. The best method is by comparison: compare the rate of rise or fall of the unknown stone with that of a known one (indicator), possibly one of the specimens in the hardness scale. For example, the specific gravity of quartz is 2.65; beryl 2.7; pink tourmaline 2.05; fluorite 3.18; topaz 3.5; corundum 4.0.

You don’t need to buy a specimen for every number of hardness on the Moh’s scale. Small pieces of corundum (9), colorless topaz (8), quartz (7), feldspar (6), and apatite (5) will provide sufficient range of hardness and density. A piece of window glass, and a pocket knife are also practical. A piece of porcelain is useful to observe streak.

It may also be useful to have an ultraviolet lamp with short and long wave wavelength capabilities to detect adhesive on repaired or constructed specimens. Such a micro-lab is inexpensive and easy to carry.

Types of fakes
As the instances of fakes on the gem market are many, we can describe only a few and how they can be recognized. Imitations and fakes can be divided into three categories: cut stones, rough gem material and specimens for mineral collectors.

Fake faceted stones
Let’s look at the first group, cut and polished stones. You are probably not going to buy a Colombian emerald, an Indian spinel, or a Burma ruby in Brazil. The most common gems on the Brazilian market are topaz (blue and imperial), aquamarine, emerald, tourmaline, chrysoberyl (including cat’s eye and alexandrite), garnet (almandine and spessartine), amethyst, citrine, smoky and rose quartz, chrysoprase, agate, spodumene (variety kunzite), andalusite, sodalite, amazonite, hematite, etc. Less common are yellow beryl (heliodor), pink beryl (morganite), opal, green spodumene (hiddenite), fluorite, cordierite (iolite), kyanite, rhodochrosite, rhodonite, and apatite. More unusual gems like gahnite, petalite, scapolite, phenakite, amblygonite, brazilianite, titanite (sphene), diopside, euclase, etc and diamond will not be considered here.

On the gem market in Europe or the USA, you can find ‘well done’ imitations, sometimes difficult to detect without considerable gemological knowledge and equipment. In Brazil, however, cheap and readily available imitations such as glass, synthetic spinel, and synthetic corundum (both made by the Verneuil method) are common. Rarer are synthetic amethyst (hydrothermal), synthetic emerald (like Gilson and Chatham), synthetic corundum with a color change (Verneuil, alexandrite imitation) etc. Having a closer look at the Brazilian gems, we note that most of them are anisotropic except for garnet, which is isotropic, and agate and chrysoprase, which are cryptocrystalline varieties of quartz with a different behavior under the polariscope. The remaining opal, glass and synthetic spinel are opticall isotropic (with some anomalies). Knowing how to use the loupe and polariscope correctly, you can’t mistake these for one of the above listed gems. Almost all glasses on the Brazilian market have an S.G in the 2.52 region, and will float in bromoform. Most have an R.I around 1.52. An exception, dark violet in color, had S.G 3.18 and R.I 1.618; it sank slowly in bromoform. Don’t forget to use the loupe to look for bubbles and color distribution.

Most of the less common gems are also anisotropic, except opal (compare behavior in the literature) and fluorite. Many faceted violet fluorites were sold as amethyst in Belo Horizonte in 1986. This falsification is easily detected since fluorite is isotropic, and heavier than bromoform (3.18). Amethyst with an S.G of 2.65 floats, and is isotropic. It is much harder too, but hardness tests should not be carried out on a cut stone because they might cause damage.

Unfortunately synthetic emerald, synthetic corundum and synthetic alexandrite are not as easily distinguished from the genuine with the micro-lab, and require better equipment, including a microscope. Don’t buy ‘almost’ flawless stones with an excellent color without consulting a gemologist.

Characteristics of some glasses used as imitations
All the glasses were used to imitate gems of similar color.

Color: Violet; S.G = 2.52; R.I = 1.519; Optics = SR; 10x = Bubbles; Trace elements = Sr, Zr, Ba, La, Ce

Color: Honey yellow; S.G = 2.52; R.I = 1.518; Optics = SR; 10x = Bubbles; Trace elements = Pb, Sr, Ba, Zr

Color: Dark violet; S.G = 3.18; R.I = 1.618; Optics = SR; 10x = - ; Trace elements = Fe

Color: Medium blue; S.G = 2.52; R.I = 1.520; Optics = SR/ADR; 10x = Bubbles; Trace elements = Sr, Zr, Ba

Color: Dark blue; S.G = 2.52; R.I = 1.520; Optics = SR; 10x = - ; Trace elements = Sr, As, Sb

Color: Red yellow; S.G = 2.52; R.I = 1.518; Optics = SR; 10x = Bubbles; Trace elements = As, Se, Zr, Ba, Nd

Color: Green blue; S.G = 2.52; R.I = 1.518; Optics = SR; 10x = - ; Trace elements = Sr, Zr, Sn, Ba

Color: Emerald green; S.G = 2.52; R.I = 1.518; Optics = SR/ADR; 10x = Bubbles; Trace elements = Sr, Zr, Ba

Color: Light blue; S.G = 2.52; R.I = 1.519; Optics = SR; 10x = Bubbles; Trace elements = Sb, Zr, Sr, Ba

Note: The physical and optical properties were determined with an Eickorst refractometer, a Mettler scale, a GIA polariscope, a mineral light with short and long ultraviolet wavelengths, and Zeiss hand loupe 10x. The chemical analyses were kindly provided by Prof C Murtha and Prof R Murta (Nuclebras—Belo Horizonte) using x-ray energy spectrometry (detection limits for the above elements are 100ppm. All specimens are non-fluorescent in ultraviolet light except the red yellow glass, which weakly fluoresced a pale white in short wave UV)

Emeralds from the locality of Santa Terezinha, Goias, and those from Carnaiba/Socoto in Bahia usually have small black inclusions not seen in the synthetics (Gilson/Chatham). Only a few emeralds, some from the localities of Itabira and Nova Era, Minas Gerais, are ‘almost’ without inclusions. The prices are relatively high. So if you are offered such stones for US$200-300 per carat (one carat and larger), you can be sure that you have a synthetic in your hand.

Although corundum exists in Brazil (e.g ruby from Bahia and sapphire from Mato Grosso), the quality is very poor and usually not facetable. What generally appears on the market are Verneuil synthetic ruby and sapphire. Imitation alexandrites are frequently synthetic corundum with color change and not synthetic alexandrite. Synthetic stones of excellent quality, especially in old rings of 18 karat gold, are typically very poorly cut, and sometimes looked crooked. The old rule, ‘excellent gems have a very good cut, whereas low quality gems are poorly cut’ can be applied in this case. In larger stones, characteristic curved growth lines may be seen with the 10x loupe. Many of these stones, especially ruby, shows a very bright fluorescence with both long and short wave ultraviolet light.

Some fakes are so unexpected and simple that many buyers fail to recognize them because they don’t examine things carefully. For example, in the State of Ceara, northeast Brazil, a type of wax made from coconut (cera Carnauba) together with ink from a simple ballpoint pen is applied to white opal. The ink penetrates the opal and darkens it to simulate black opal. Examination with a 10x loupe will show concentration of the dark bluish ink along tiny crevices at the surface.

Falsifications of cat’s eye chrysoberyl may be made by irradiating asteriated quartz cabochons showing unusual strength of one of the rays. The color of the stone will turn brownish yellow, showing one strong ray only, thus imitating cat’s eye. A close look in different directions will reveal the asterism. If you are still in doubt, use the bromoform; chrysoberyl will sink whereas quartz will float.

Falsification of rough gem material
The second group, gem rough, is the easiest to detect, and there are only a few fakes on the market. Glass is commonly used to imitate tourmaline and aquamarine. In the case of tourmaline, green to bluish green glass has been fashioned into prismatic ‘crystals’ and even grooved with a saw to simulate the striations on a natural crystal. Upon magnification, these ‘striations’ appear to too regular. Other fake tourmalines are bicolored (e.g green and blue, green and red, or bright green and olive green) and often have inclusions (impurities). These are made from toy ‘marbles’, small glass spheres. Real tourmaline appears dark to almost black in the direction of the crystallographic axis (its optic axis); these will not. With the loupe it may be possible to detect bubbles in the glass and swirls of color. If there is still doubt, use the polariscope (not in the direction of the optic axis) or the bromoform. Bromoform will not distinguish between common glass and aquamarine, as both float, but tourmaline will sink. The polariscope will leave you without doubt.

Another fake on the market, already mentioned, is violet fluorite imitating amethyst. In 1986 thousands of grams of this material were sold in Belo Horizonte. Since fluorite is optically isotropic with a density of 3.18, you can detect it with either the polariscope or the bromoform. An examination with the hand loupe will show cleavage, usually in four direction(octahedral). Amethyst has no cleavage, and its hardness is 7 while fluorite’s is 4.

A different kind of falsification is exemplified by a parcel of golden beryl (heliodor), sold in the State of Paraiba in 1986. This ‘heliodor’ was nothing more than colorless beryl (goshenite) treated with a suspension of iron oxide or iron hydroxide to give it a yellowish color. A careful examination with the loupe shows that the coating is not homogenous, and you can see ‘windows’ of colorless beryl. Scratching a small piece with a knife will remove the coating.

Fake mineral specimens
The last and most difficult group to detect is mineral specimens for collectors—the variety is immense. We can divide this group into two categories: falsification strictly speaking, made out of other materials, and those using genuine minerals but glued in various ways.

For instance, pink crystal and watermelon crystal. Closer examination with the loupe is necessary to detect both falsifications The first specimen (pink crystal) consists of a sawn piece of lepidolite (a lithium mica) affixed to a matrix with powdered rubellite (red tourmaline) and cement. The striations are too regular, and with the loupe the granular structure of the coating material is obvious. Mica is also softer than tourmaline. The second example, sold in the city of Teofilo Otoni, Minas Gerais in 1973 for a very high price, simulates a watermelon tourmaline of excellent quality. The center is made from red glass. Green tourmaline, coarsely powdered, was mixed with common construction cement, and a green coating of this together with pieces of natural green tourmaline was applied around the red glass core. Here also, a close examination reveals the granular nature of the outer rim. Usually a huge tourmaline would appear very dark brown down the crystallographic c-axis (optic axis) which this fake does not. In this particular case, the polariscope will not separate glass from tourmaline, since tourmaline behaves isotropically in the direction of the optic axis. Well terminated crystals are of greater value to collectors than unterminated or broken ones. Faceted and polishing a broken end can make a crystal appear terminated. Examine suspicious crystals with the loupe. Polished areas generally look completely different from a natural crystal face. Tourmaline, aquamarine, ‘imperial topaz’, and quartz crystals are the most common minerals falsified in this manner.

The glued specimens of authentic minerals are even more difficult to detect. A specimen of scheelite and gold in matrix from the famous gold mine of Morro Velho, near the city of Belo Horizonte, was sold in 1987. A careful examination with loupe showed that the gold was glued onto the matrix. A piece of ‘canga’ (a conglomerate of naturally crushed rock particles, pebbles, and sand, with an iron oxide/hydroxide cement), with diamond and gold from the Diamantina District, Minas Gerais was seen, and both the diamond and the gold had been glued onto the specimen. Broken quartz crystals, also from the Diamantina region, are often seen glued back together. Since all three specimens do occur naturally, you have to examine the area surrounding the mineral (gold, diamond, or broken place) carefully using your loupe. A crystal or a piece of gold projecting from a crevice or a tiny cavity in the rock should arouse your suspicions.

Reaction of some adhesives to ultraviolet light

Adhesive: Araldite; Color: colorless to white; LW = white/yellowish/pink: very weak; SW = medium

Adhesive: Superbonde; Color: colorless; LW = -; SW = -

Adhesive: Silicone; Color: Colorless to white; LW = white to v.v.weak; SW = -

Adhesive: Durepox; Color: grey; LW = -; SW = -

Adhesive: Pattex Sekundenkleber (Germany); Color: colorless; LW = - ; SW = -

Adhesive: Pattex Extracola De contato; Color: white to yellowish; LW = white weak; SW = white medium

Adhesive: Bindulin Porzelankitt (Germany); Color: colorless to white; LW = violet weak; SW = violet medium

There are many adhesives on the Brazilian market, some of which are imported. Only a few of them fluoresce under ultraviolet light. More difficult to detect are those pieces like gold that are not glued, but rather forced into the matrix with a piece of wood. Examine the gold with the loupe to detect any ‘pushing marks’.

For example: Cut/polished agate with water: Magnification of the brownish/reddish point at the upper part reveals that the age was sawn, drilled with ultrasonic drill, then injected with water, and the hole closed with adhesive. Ten power magnification will show the tiny hole filled with glue, and short wave ultraviolet light shows a bright point of fluorescence.

Conclusions
Most fakes on the Brazilian gem market are easy to detect with basic gemological knowledge and the use of the suggested ‘micro-lab’. Since the number of such falsifications and their varieties is immense, we have discussed only a few typical examples. Remembering these, and imagining all possible variations, the buyer won’t be cheated or misled in most cases. For ‘almost’ flawless emerald, ruby, sapphire and alexandrite with good color and cut, it is better to consult a gemologist with more extensive equipment. Cheap imitations of these stones and the synthetic Verneuil stones are usually poorly cut.

The Magic Of Amber

By Rosa Hunger
Chilton Book Company
1979 ISBN 0-8019-6854-2

Chilton Book Company writes:

The Magic of Amber is a fascinating and popular guide to one of the world’s oldest yet least known gemstones. In fact, amber is not a ‘stone’ at all, but a fossilized resin from pine trees that grew some fifty million years ago, and it is part of its mystery and visual appeal that just a few pieces captured for eternity complete insects like flies, spiders and beetles, as well as small flowers, leaves and pieces of bark—presented now in their own miniature ‘showcase’ to be seen and studied all these years later.

But what makes amber so individual is that every piece is unique giving an infinite variety of optical effects in different lights. It is found in a wide range of colors—from the nearly black and deep ruby red, to browns, deep golds and pale yellows, greens and rarer blues, to almost white opaque ambers that resemble ivory. Add to this its warmth, lightness and almost therapeutic quality when touched, and it is small wonder that amber has been so highly prized for thousands of years and has been the object of such fine craftsmanship—particularly in the Orient, Prussia and Germany.

Rosa Hunger has spent all her working life in the amber trade, and there can be few more qualified than her to fill the lengthy gap in English works on amber. Her book is a comprehensive survey of amber from its formation in the depths of time to the latest discoveries in Lithuania and the Dominican Republic. She charts its rises and falls in fashion in the Stone and Bronze ages, Prehistoric, Roman and Medieval times, and describes the achievements of the 16th and 17th centuries—the Golden Age of amber working, the Baroque period to Victorian times and the present day. There are also chapters on rare ambers, how to distinguish amber from its imitations, its care and display, the response of writers to its beauty and the author’s recollections of her family’s trading in amber. Illustrated in both color and black and white, The Magic of Amber will prove of value to collectors, investors and dealers to amber jewelry and objects d’art—or anyone with a feeling for beautiful things, as well as filling a long term gap in the coverage of this glorious gemstone.

Sunday, March 11, 2007

Dangerous Diamonds

Read on to learn more about scandals behind the sparkle of the world's most desirable gems @
http://www.ex.ac.uk/~RDavies/arian/scandals/diamonds.html

Diamond Smugglers Of Brazil

Here is an interesting profile of diamond smugglers of Brazil. It's educational.

Read on to learn more @ http://foreign-correspondent.blogspot.com/2006/06/diamond-smugglers-ii.html

Gandhi

Memorable quote (s) from the movie:

Edward R. Murrow (Shane Rimmer): The object of this massive tribute died as he had always lived - a private man without wealth, without property, without official title or office. Mahatma Gandhi was not a commander of great armies nor ruler of vast lands. He could boast no scientific achievements or artistic gift. Yet men, governments and dignitaries from all over the world have joined hands today to pay homage to this little brown man in the loincloth who led his country to freedom. Pope Pius, the Archbishop of Canterbury, President Truman, Chiang Kai-shek, The Foreign Minister of Russia, the President of France... are among the millions here and abroad who have lamented his passing. In the words of General George C. Marshall, the American Secretary of State, "Mahatma Gandhi had become the spokesman for the conscience of mankind, a man who made humility and simple truth more powerful than empires." And Albert Einstein added, "Generations to come will scarce believe that such a one as this ever in flesh and blood walked upon this earth."

The Tourmaline Group

By R V Dietrich
Van Nostrand Reinhold Company
1985 ISBN 0-30-442-21857-5

Van Nostrand Reinhold writes:

Throughout history royalty, mineral collectors, and connoisseurs of colored gemstones have treasured tourmalines for their color, color patterns, durability, and natural beauty. In addition to being exquisite showpieces and gemstones, tourmalines also possess qualities—unique structure, physical properties, and chemical compositions—that have been of great interest to chemist, crystallographers, gemologists, geologists, metallurgists, pedologists and physicists, as well as to mineralogists.

The Tourmaline Group examines the features and characteristics that make tourmalines valuable to scientists and collectors alike. With scores of figures, including eight color plates, the book describes and illustrates the eight species of tourmaline comprising this mineral group and tells how the different species originate in diverse kinds of rocks.

Culling information from more than 2000 publications, the Tourmaline Group surveys such topics as:

- Symmetry and Morphological Crystallography—hemimorphism, crystal size, shape and surface features.
- Physical properties—density, hardness, elasticity, and magnetic, thermal, electrical and radioactive properties.
- Crystal structure—diagrams and easy-to-follow explanations illustrating the arrangement of constituent atoms.
- Color and Optical properties—causes of colors, processes for the enhancement of colors, and the relationship between color and other properties.
- Chemistry and Alternation—the ideal formula for each of the species, an evaluation of chemical analyses of both major and trace elements, and the stability of tourmaline under diverse temperature and pressure conditions.
- Synthesis—experiments indicating how tourmaline may be produced by man.

You will also discover how tourmaline has been used by various civilizations. Dr Dietrich traces the historical roots of tourmaline—from a possible description in Theophrastus ‘On Stones—315 B.C), through its use by the Vikings as a ‘sunstone’ navigation compass, to more recent applications in the manufacture of boric acid, in scientific and industrial instruments and in the decorative arts. And, for readers interested in aesthetics, he devotes a separate chapter exploring tourmaline’s use in jewelry art, and as exhibition pieces.

About the author
R V Dietrich has been an active editor of various mineralogical and geological journals and has been the author or co-author of more than a hundred professional papers and 10 books.

Saturday, March 10, 2007

Blame It On Rio

Memorable quote (s) from the movie:

Jennifer Lyons (Michelle Johnson): Will you forget me?

Matthew Hollis (Michael Caine): The minute I die.

Tips For Gemologists

The following text is a ‘must read’ for all gemologists—recent graduate gemologists and practicing gemologists. Thomas Chatham is well known in the gemological field of science for producing gemstones in his laboratory in the U.S for research applications and the jewelry industry. Chatham rubies, sapphires, emeralds, diamonds and other gem species are well-known in the gemological circle. Some stones are easy to identify (old samples with metallic particles and flux inclusions), while the clean stones is not that easy to detect. You really need a comparison set stones for positive identification. He is a frequent speaker at important gemological events and has generously donated samples stones to gemological institutes and students for study purposes.

Read on to learn more……

(via The Canadian Gemmologist, volume XIX, number 1, Spring, 1998):

Congratulations to the students

By Thomas H Chatham

Text of a speech given at the CGA (Canadian Gemmological Association) Graduation in Toronto, Oct 25, 1997

Tonight, you the graduates, have moved to a new level of competence. You started out as unconsciously incompetent. Rubies were red, diamond, white, and then it trailed off from there. This applies to all of us in the room contemplating brain surgery tomorrow morning. We don’t have the slightest clue.

The second stage you went through was being consciously incompetent. You wanted to know more about gemology, but couldn’t separate an agate from moldavite. You had to study to remember where the table was, the girdle, the crown, the pavilion—all these common words with brand new meanings.

Tonight you have arrived at the third stage. You are consciously competent. You practice due diligence when looking at a stone; you look in the stone, perform many physical tests, refer to technical books, and make educated conclusions. Do not go beyond this stage.

The fourth step in being unconsciously competent. This is the person who takes one look at an emerald and says, “yeah, that’s a Chatham” or “I can spot a Chatham Created Ruby across the room”. This was said by one New York dealer who lost US$25000 on this sort of competence. You only think you can do it in your sleep.

Tonight you leave here a little dangerous: soon you will be alone. No one will look over your shoulder; it’s not a grade now—it’s may be $10000! Don’t forget to remember what you learned how to do. Gemology is a lot of detective work. It’s mostly dull, punctuated by lots of self doubt. The job is getting much more tricky. There are many new technologies and treatments and new consequences for error. Public awareness has never been higher than today. People are informed. They will also sue you.

One hundred years ago, Verneuil invented the flame fusion ruby. Since that time we have invented the automobile, air travel, walked on the moon, and put a computer in every office. And people who should know better still get taken by flame fusion stones at the mines. Incredible!

Today begins your valuable education, the practical application of what you have learned. It is by far the most beneficial. Choose any field—retail sales, wholesaler, cutter, manufacturer, appraiser, or gem buyer: they all need your talents. All need updated information because every day brings new ideas, new applications and new crooks!

You must continue to learn by reading books, joining trade associations, subscribing to gemological journals, going to trade shows and attending meetings to hear talks. Some are boring, but you will find those with that tidbit of new information only by going.

I hope you are happy in whichever field you choose. They all need your help. I will leave you with these thoughts:

- Apply yourself 110%.
- Don’t take anyone’s word for it, be it a grade or identification.
- Keep learning. We are always going to produce new headaches.
- Look at progress as a bridge to the future, not as a road block.

Drive carefully, good night and congratulations!

Turquoise Trivia

(via Lapidary Journal) Annie Osburn writes:

Turquoise is one of the oldest known gem materials, and was mined in the Sinai Peninsula before the 4th millennium B.B. Its allure caught the eye of ancient Egyptians, Mayans, and Aztecs, who took to mining the gemstone. In ancient Mexico, turquoise was reserved for the gods and not worn by mere mortals. Apache Indians believed turquoise gave warriors and hunters better aim; the Zuni believed it protected them from demons; and Tibetans have carved it into ritual objects and worn it as traditional jewelry.

“Turquoise is supposed to bring you good luck,” says Bruce McGee, Director of Retails Sales at The Heard Museum, a leader in Native American art collections located in Phoenix, Arizona. McGee, whose father was a trader in the Four Corners area, grew up literally surrounded by Navajo and Hopi culture. “In the old trading days, among Navajo women turquoise was a sign of wealth. The more wealthy ones had large sets of beads, large bracelets, and collar pins on their velveteen blouses. When I was young, I remember seeing belt buckles and chunk necklaces worn by the medicine men, and horse halters with turquoise and silver that were so large you couldn’t even afford to make something like that anymore.”

Jade

By J P Palmer
Spring Books, London
1967

Spring Books writes:

Jade: valued above all other precious stones by the Chinese, fought for by the Maoris of New Zealand and offered as gifts to the conquering Spaniards by the Aztecs of Mexico, this rare and valuable mineral has a long and controversial history which spans 4000 years and five continents.

Jade, which was claimed as a cure for kidney disease by the Spaniards and buried in graves by the Chinese (who believed in imparted immortality), is known today mostly as jewelry in the familiar ‘jade green’.

But illustrated in this book, jade is seen to range from darkest grey green to purest white, blue, brown, pink and gold. So hard and so difficult to work, jade is shown here carved into a multiplicity of objects—jewelry, weapons, bowls and vases—depicted in all the richness and variety of its many colors.

J.P Palmer, as Assistant Keeper at the Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, has provided a comprehensive introduction to the fascinating story of jade—what it is, where it came from, how it was carved and how it was used.

Glowing and translucent with reflected light, jade is endowed with the special quality, peculiar to this beautiful stone, of combining gem hardness with delicacy; fragility with impressive strength. It is unique. In the 54 full color plates more than 80 works of art are illustrated and there are eight black and white illustrations.

Friday, March 09, 2007

215-carat Letseng Diamond

The Antwerp World Diamond Centre (ADWC) has announced the sale of a 215-carat D-color diamond at the Letseng Diamond Tender to Belgian-based Omega Diamonds at $38000 per carat. It is a big stone, and now the master cutter will have to study carefully the size and shape of the rough to produce a masterpiece.

In order to facilitate diamond trade, Letseng Tenders are held monthly by WWW International Diamond Consultants. Letseng mine is well known for its large size and unique quality diamonds.

Sabrina

Memorable quote (s) from the movie:

The Professor (Marcel Hillaire): Bonjour, mesdames et monsiuers. Yesterday we have learned the correct way how to boil water. Today we will learn the correct way how to crack an egg. Voila! An egg. Now, an egg is not a stone; it is not made of wood, it is a living thing. It has a heart. So when we crack it, we must not torment it. We must be merciful and execute it quickly, like with the guillotine.

How To Buy Colored Stones In Sri Lanka

The article written by Donald Couglin on gemstone buying experiences in Sri Lanka is true. It’s the same experience (s) at all gem producing countries in Asia, Africa, and South America. There are endless variations but the content (s) is pretty much the same. If you are not aware or properly trained it’s like two blind walking the street. In order to enjoy the experience (s) you need to have good knowledge on gemstone treatment, synthetics, imitations, assembled gemstones, local traditions, trading practices and good social skills + accumulated luck. You must find a way to become a likable person. It's hard to explain why people like or dislike you, but the concept can make a big difference in Asia, Africa and South America. Even with all the knowledge in the world you may not be able to buy gemstones effectively if the sellers dislike you for unknown reasons. Train yourself to learn the skill. It's an art.

Read on to learn more……..

Sri Lanka: A Gemstone Buyer’s Dream
(via The Canadian Gemmologist, volume XV, Spring, 1994, number 1) Donald Coughlin writes:

It is hard to imagine a more fascinating and interesting country for a gemstone enthusiast to visit. Whether the visitor is a lapidarist, gemologist, jeweler, or hobbyist, Sri Lanka has all one can ask for. This is a photographer’s paradise.

Sri Lanka, still fondly called Ceylon by many inhabitants, is an island lying off the southern tip of India. Filled with color, excitement, friendliness, folk lore and superstition, Sri Lanka is the Pearl of Southeast Asia. Languages are primarily Tamil and Sinhala; English is often spoken and understood in all major tourist areas. In gemstone mining areas, the man on the street knows little English, but tries hard. You should be patient when they misunderstand you.

Various reports claim much of the country’s surface has gemstone minerals beneath it. These are easy to believe, because there is no apparent sign of gem shortages despite centuries of mining.

Very little in Sri Lanka compares with the Western world, and that includes customs and traditions that are often directly related to Astrology. Every lunar month there is “Poya” day, a national Buddhist holiday when most businesses are closed.

Before a visit, I would strongly recommend that you read a guidebook to learn about climate, customs, tourism, etc.

Where, And When To Shop
There are hundreds of gemstone shops sprinkled throughout Sri Lanka. Some are elegant (luxury hotels and museums), while others may be small and unassuming. Normally one’s purse dictates which sort of shop to deal with.

Generally, gem dealers are courteous, friendly, and helpful. They rarely get offended when a customer walks out without buying. Apart from the shops, and a great deal more fun, are the street gemstone hawkers of Ratnapura and other mining towns.

Once you arrive at Ratnapura (Ratna means gems; pura means area), there are many things the visitor should be aware of before stepping into the unknown. The following information will help you:

What Instruments Do I Need?
When visiting a “Pola” (a street auction where all the action is), you will want to carry only a few gem testing instruments such as:

- 10x lens or loupe

- small diffraction grating spectroscope

- dichroscope

- tweezers

- sewing machine oil in a small dispenser; ideal for checking rough stones for asterism or chatoyancy

- Chelsea filter

- pen light; as strong as possible, with spare batteries

- a portable polariscope or 49-mm polarizing lens

- pocket sized calculator

Basic Rules For Shopping

Keep your sense of humor
This is most important and therefore heads the list. Sri Lankans enjoy a good laugh, and often local men laugh at you for no apparent reason. You should not take offence, and understand that they have a completely different mentality to yours and they do not mean to offend you. Whether laughing with you, or at you, try to take it in a good natured way.

The same thing works in reverse, you can laugh at them for whatever the reason, and they enjoy the joke. Depending on how you view it, this sort of laughter can be quite refreshing when compared with our often exaggerated western sensitivities.

Guard your money
Do not flash your money around. Carry only small bills and plenty of small change, and only the amount you intend to spend.

Keep calm
Do not let yourself lose your cool. These peddlers hound you to death, about 50 of them pressing in on all sides, and you must remain calm. Agitation only makes things worse, and there is a strong likelihood that poor judgment will result on your part. Just make it clear to them that they must back off or you will no longer discuss gemstones with them. Eventually they get the hint.

Know what you want
Decide in advance whether you will purchase cut stones, or rough. It is illegal to export rough stones from Sri Lanka. However, this should not prevent you buying some (particularly if you are a lapidarist and know a good stone when you see one). You can then take it to any established shop dealer who will be pleased to cut it for you at a low cost.

Bargain
Always bargain, even if a shopkeeper insists he has fixed, or unbeatable prices. I have yet to see a dealer let me walk out of his shop reconsidering his fixed rules. Many dealers in Sri Lanka, whether in first-class hotels or gemstone shops, have as much as 30% mark up on their gemstones. Up to 20% of that is for the touring guide or agent, while 10% may be tacked on for discount purposes. Foreigners often receive advice to refuse any purchase not accompanied by a discount. If you are unaccompanied, then you should deduct 30% and even more to set a bargaining plateau.

Buyer beware
When you have agreed upon a price, you cannot, ever, change your mind. To change your mind after you have made a fixed offer is unethical, and not playing the game. If this happens (and it did to me), you will find many stern and angry faces closing in—quite frightening to uninitiated. Don’t worry, they will never hurt you and are teaching you a lesson, but your popularity has dropped considerably.

Agreeing on a price
The hawker is offering his blue sapphire (cut or rough) for the bargain price of 12000 rupees. You like the stone, so you may feel you should start bargaining at 4000. Watch it. You will feel ill should the dealer immediately accept that figure. The streetwise shoppers offer under 4000. This leaves the door open, and if the seller agrees, then you start working on a lower figure.

The Sinhalese way of indicating yes
Many foreigners are confused when the seller shakes his head in a curious wobbling manner much as we indicate no in Western countries. This delightful and unusual mannerism means yes in Sri Lanka. When I first experienced this peculiarity, I raised the price under the assumption I had made too low an offer. The laughter among the hawkers was sure sign that I was not the first to make this mistake.

Synthetics and imitations
If the price seems too low for such a high quality stone, it is likely the stone is synthetic. Test it if you the necessary instruments, or refuse it. Because of greed and excitement one can become incredibly stupid. For example, you think you have spotted a rare stone and in haste to get away and admire the steal you throw commonsense to the wind. Sad to say, you forget to check the stone; and sadder still, you may even forget to bargain. I know from experience.

I sometimes buy synthetics and imitations for study purposes, but only for the price of cutting. When you spot a desirable specimen, you can offer possibly rupees 50-100 per carat. Pit glasses are attractive and worth collecting.

Bear in mind
More often than not, local gemstone dealers (as in most other countries) know little about gemology. This is a great advantage to the intrepid buyer trained in identification techniques. It is shocking to see how many honest dealers unknowingly peddle synthetic stones.

One dealer situated in a five star hotel, claimed he had to certified rare stones (ekanite and taaffeite) for sale. I checked and found the certificates did not match the stones in question—even the colors were wrong. I brought my portable refractometer and showed him that he had a diopside and a normal blue spinel. He was the victim of a switch deal.

Rare stones
When you spot a rare stone, and obviously the seller is not aware of it, but it. Do not let your conscience bother you too much in this grey area. Dealers are businessmen, and it is obvious that their consciences are at rest when they grossly inflate their prices on the unaware tourist. You can make an excellent purchase, e.g. a beautiful spessartite garnet as a hessonite for only a couple of dollars, or a very rare taaffeite represented as a blue spinel for a similar amount.

Things are not always what they appear to be: For example, local descriptions of gemstones differ from textbooks. A tourmaline parcel is a stone paper filled with a mixed variety of stones with few (if any) tourmalines in it. Many peddlers call colored stones tourmaline, and the inexperienced buyer often believes these are all different shades of that variety. Normally these parcels consist of green metamict zircon, almandine and hessonite garnets, spinel, diopside, quartz varieties, and glasses. However on occasion a sharp eye will spot the odd chrysoberyl and rare stones such as sinhalite, kornerupine, taaffeite, ekanite, etc.

Quartz varieties (smoky, citrine, and rock crystal) are called topaz (in English). The dealers are not intentionally misleading you (though such a possibility exists), but to them topaz is English for quartz.

Have your stone certified
If a gemstone is expensive and you doubt its authenticity, insist that you want the stone certified by the State Gem Corporation of Sri Lanka (free of charge without certificate, minimal charge with one), or other qualified agency, before you make full payment. The street hawkers usually work for a mine or shop owner, so are probably paid on a commission basis. Some may be pit workers who manage to find sapphires and rubies while out jogging, or perhaps the stones fell off a truck.

Insist that your man take you to his master, or bring him to you, and request the necessary certification. This applies to shop dealers and street hawkers alike, but only for expensive stones. The dealer will deliver both stone and certificate to your hotel room if he is sincere. Should the stone turn out to be synthetic, you may not see the dealer again unless he has an alternative stone of equal value on hand. (I understand the Gem Corporation will destroy the synthetic—much to the dealer’s dismay).

Cutting
Pay close attention to the cut of a stone. Sri Lanka has excellent lapidarists, but unfortunately many intentionally turn out poorly cut stones to gain maximum weight and/ or color. Star stones and cat’s eyes are usually cut with crown showing excellent asterism/chatoyancy, but with the base left rough and uneven.

Do not disregard badly cut stones, but bargain hard and have them recut. Take into account the number of carats you may lose and of course the cost per carat. You can double or triple the value of most stones by recutting.

Sri Lanka must be one of the most exciting countries in the world for gemstone enthusiasts, and the above is only an enticing morsel of the great gemstone experience. Sri Lankan tourism is priceless and must be taken advantage of. The sights, natural beauty, are unparalleled (and I have 38 years of travel behind me for comparison).

Harshad R Mehta + Rosy Blue

Here is an inspiring profile of Harshad R Mehta and Rosy Blue, from modest business to one of the biggest diamond companies in the world. In the trade circle he is also known as the Diamond King.

Read on to learn more about Harshad Mehta @ http://archive.gulfnews.com/friday/People/10107947.html

It was educational + the rise to top is a good learning curve for beginners in the industry—Understanding Diamond Business 101 to Advanced.

The Lizzadro Collection

By Miriam Anderson Lytle
John Racila Associates, Inc
1982 Library of Congress Catalog number: 82-099930

John Racila Associates writes:

Climb to the mountain retreat of an ancient Buddhist monk. Peer into this Chinese hermit’s cave; observe him in his solitude and contemplation.

View a Chinese goddess—elegant and regal—yet beneficent, warm, welcoming; bestowing blessings on all who revere her.

Closely examine the sinuous rhythmically flowing form of a pair of graceful cranes captured forever in gray-green jadeite.

Marvel at the sight of a ceremonial dish hand carved from stone as thin and translucent as the finest porcelain.

The Lizzadro collection is wonderfully complete representation of the complex art form that is hard stone carving. This book is a presentation that reveals the beauty and symbolism of many fine Chinese carvings, as well as the magnificent utilization of the natural coloring and pattern in the materials used. The pieces selected well represent the amazing skill and creativity of many generations of Chinese artisans.

Through close up photography and enlarged views, this book brings into sharp focus subtle details that may take many hours of careful observation to reveal. The text instills the reader with a sense of the romance, poetic soul and heritage of Chinese culture, and gives knowledge of its great contribution to history. The breathtaking photographs and informative text are full of inspiration for the art connoisseur, the lapidary, the geologist, the engraver, the student of China, or any person interested in gaining an understanding of this intricate art form.

This book further serves as a celebration of the twentieth anniversary of the founding of the museum that houses the phenomenal Lizzadro collection. Located in Elmhurst, Illinois, the Lizzadro Museum came into being out of the late Joseph Lizzadro’s philanthropic desire to share his appreciation of this special art form. This legacy continues to this day under the guidance of John S Lizzadro, director, and the help of the family whose hope is ‘to share with others our enjoyment of the eternal beauty in gemstones and our appreciation of the art with which man has complemented the work of nature’.

Thursday, March 08, 2007

Diamond Cutting

Here is a comparison of some cutting times for round and fancy diamond shapes:

Round brilliant: 2-4 hours

Oval shape: 8-10 hours

Marquise shape: 12 hours

Emerald shape: 14-16 hours

Fatal Rapid Sight Gemstone Buying Syndrome

When you spend more than you can afford to lose….That’s Fatal Rapid Sight Gemstone Buying Syndrome. Most people go overseas with the fantasy of buying a beautiful gem / jewel at a bargain price. But the fact of the matter is you are buying gemstones / jewelry about which you know next to nothing for lot of money from a stranger thousands of miles from home who comes from a culture with a long tradition of trading. Who has the advantage? Do you know about treatments, synthetics, imitations, assembled gems? Do you really know how to identify them? Not really. I would like to use a catchphrase from Malcolm Gladwell to highlight the experience: Momentary Autism. It's really amazing. It happens.

Double Indemnity

Memorable quote (s) from the movie:

Barton Keyes (Edward G Robinson): You know, you, uh, oughta take a look at the statistics on suicide some time. You might learn a little something about the insurance business.

Edward S. Norton (Richard Gaines): Mister Keyes, I was raised in the insurance business.

Barton Keyes (Edward G Robinson): Yeah, in the front office. Come now, you've never read an actuarial table in your life, have you? Why they've got ten volumes on suicide alone. Suicide by race, by color, by occupation, by sex, by seasons of the year, by time of day. Suicide, how committed: by poison, by firearms, by drowning, by leaps. Suicide by poison, subdivided by types of poison, such as corrosive, irritant, systemic, gaseous, narcotic, alkaloid, protein, and so forth. Suicide by leaps, subdivided by leaps from high places, under the wheels of trains, under the wheels of trucks, under the feet of horses, from steamboats. But, Mr. Norton: Of all the cases on record, there's not one single case of suicide by leap from the rear end of a moving train. And you know how fast that train was going at the point where the body was found? Fifteen miles an hour. Now how can anybody jump off a slow-moving train like that with any kind of expectation that he would kill himself? No, no soap, Mr. Norton. We're sunk, and we'll have to pay through the nose, and you know it.

Chinese Jades From Han To Ch’ing

By James C Y Watt
The Asia Society, Inc
1980 ISBN 0-87848-057-9

The Asia Society writes:

According to Chinese reckoning there are five colors of jade: red, yellow, white, black and green. A traditional description specifies the best colors as red as a coxwomb, yellow as steamed chestnuts, white as congealed fat, black as lacquer.

In China, jade has always had powerful ritual and symbolic significance. From the earliest times jade carvings were placed in tombs to serve as protective talismans, and Confucian scholars later attributed to the stone all the virtues of the ideal man in an ideal state. But the Chinese have been equally attracted by the physical properties of this tough, lustrous stone, giving to many small pieces the name as ‘pa wan’, hold and enjoy.

The jades assembled here, dating from the second century B.C to the nineteenth century A.D, exemplify some of the highest achievements of the jade carver’s art, and also highlight the problems that beset scholars and collectors who study these objects. Although much has been written on the archaic jades of the Shang and Chou dynasties (1523-256 B.C), the jades of later periods have received comparatively little attention. For the most part these pieces are heirlooms, passed from generation to generation and collector to collector. Archaeological finds and historical records have provided a few clues, but questions of dating, evolution of style, and the use and significance of particular pieces are often exceedingly difficult to answer.

In this volume James Watt explores specific areas in the later history of Chinese jades. He has selected certain ‘themes’, such as the evolution of the animal style or the taste of a small group of scholar gentry, and draws on recent archaeological discoveries, comparisons with other decorative arts, and traditional methods of connoisseurship to place these objects in their proper context. Over 200 examples from distinguished collections in Hong Kong and the United States are illustrated (11 in full color) and discussed in detail.

A specialist in Chinese Art, James Watt is the foremost authority on jades of the Han and succeeding dynasties.

Wednesday, March 07, 2007

DNA Tracking

Read on how seal penises, elephant dung and smashed ivory are helping geneticists pinpoint the poaching of protected species @ http://www.economist.com/science/displaystory.cfm?story_id=8770177

Decoding Color

(via Lapidary Journal) Terri Haag writes:

The Zulu love letter (iNcwadi Kuthanda) are messages woven in beads by Zulu girls to send to their beloveds. Some of the messages are rather tart, so perhaps the term love letters is a bit euphemistic. Pointed reminders might be more accurate. One suspiciously tourist-oriented source lists the following meaning for the colors used:

White: This is the color of purity, vision, and love itself.

Black: I have turned pitch black as the rafters of the hut as I hear you have another lover.

Blue: If I were a dove I would fly to your home and pick up food at your door.

Pink: You should work harder to get lobola (bride price money paid by a male suitor to his would-be father in law) and not gamble and waste your money.

Green: I have become thin like the sweet cane in a damp field and green as first shoots of trees because of my love for you.

Red: My heart bleeds and is full of love.

Another source is certainly more comprehensive:

There are seven colors used and every color except white has to meanings, one positive, one negative. White (iThambo/bone) is always positive and always represents purity and spiritual love. When a color is used beside white it carries the positive meaning. For instance, a white hand beside a blue band denotes fidelity and often means the person is engaged.

Black: iStimane/shadow
Positive = marriage, rebirth
Negative = death, sadness

Blue: iJubal/dove
Positive = faithfulness
Negative = hostility, dislike

Yellow: iNcombo/young corn
Positive = wealth, garden
Negative = badness, thirst, withering

Green: uKuhlaza/new grass
Positive = contentment
Negative = discord, illness

Pink:
Positive = promise, high status
Negative = poverty, laziness

Red:
Positive = love, strong emotion
Negative = anger, heartache

The Manchurian Candidate

Memorable quote (s) from the movie:

Bennett Marco (Frank Sinatra): Poor Raymond. Poor friendless, friendless Raymond. He was wearing his medal when he died. You should read some of the citations sometime. Just read them. Taken, eight prisoners, killing four enemy in the process while one leg and one arm was shattered and he could only crawl because the other leg had been blown off - Edwards. Wounded five times, dragged himself across the direct fire of three enemy machine guns to pull two of his wounded men to safety amid sixty-nine dead and two hundred and three casualties - Holderman. Made to commit acts too unspeakable to be cited here by an enemy who had captured his mind and his soul. He freed himself at last and in the end, heroically and unhesitatingly gave his life to save his country. Raymond Shaw... Hell... Hell.

Ivory Carving

By Carson I A Ritchie
By Arthur Baker Ltd
1969 SBN 213 17955 5

Arthur Baker Ltd writes:

As this is the first handbook on ivory carving ever to be written, the author (who is one Britain’s foremost ivory sculptors) has tried to make it as complete as possible. Step by step instructions, fully illustrated by line drawings, take the beginner from the initial stage of buying the ivory through the sculpting and polishing processes. In the final chapter on Marketing and Exhibiting the author passes on his experience as a professional ivory carver and exhibitor for those who want to turn ivory carving from an enthusiasm into a livelihood. This book lays bare for the first time the secrets of ivory sculpture which have been transmitted from master to pupil over the centuries, but never published.

Although primarily intended for the beginner who has had no formal art instruction, this book will also interest the professional sculptor who wishes to move over from some other medium into ivory, particularly the special sections on cutting the cost of buying the tusks, studio arrangement and planning of work so as to eliminate unnecessary drudgery and leave as much time as possible available for the vital matters of inspiration an design.

In his advice to beginners in carving the author has tried to balance between the enthusiast who cannot afford any more equipment than what will go on a kitchen table, and the professional with a well equipped studio. A well chosen photographic section shows what ivories look like at different stages of the carving process and illustrates the work of contemporary sculptors in this field.

Ivory carving is not of interest just to the carver, but to the collector, the archaeologist, and the art historian as well. Special sections have been written to show how to distinguish between the provenance of one kind of ivory and another and how to track the use of different kinds of tools from their traces. So archaeologists can now begin to ask themselves the question ‘Is this statue Indian or African ivory, and how was it carved?’ with some hope of an answer.

About the author
Dr Richie is the first research worker to test every known kind of ivory for hardness and fluorescence. He began ivory carving as a complete amateur, and now exhibits with the Royal Society of Miniature Artists, Sculptors and Gravers.

Tuesday, March 06, 2007

The Rise Of Technology Addiction

Read on to learn more about the exponential growth of portable technology and the after effects: the link between the decision making process, work and private life....

@ http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/programmes/click_online/6411495.stm

Digging For Ethical Gems

The distribution of gemstones is very complex. The routes followed by gemstones to the marketplace are also very torturous. There are more individuals involved , each with their own interests. In gem producing countries, smuggling, child labor, illicit trading, and environmental destruction are widespread.

Read on to learn more about the concerns associated with gemstones @
http://www.coopamerica.org/pubs/realmoney/articles/ethicalgems.cfm

Psycho

Memorable quote (s) from the movie:

California Charlie, used car salesman (John Anderson): I'm in no mood for trouble.

Marion Crane (Janet Leigh): What?

California Charlie, used car salesman (John Anderson): There's an old saying, "First customer of the day is always the trouble!" But like I say, I'm in no mood for it so I'm gonna treat you so fair and square that you won't have one human reason to give me...

Marion Crane (Janet Leigh): Can I trade my car in and take another?

California Charlie, used car salesman (John Anderson): Do anything you've a mind to. Bein' a woman, you will. That yours?

Marion Crane (Janet Leigh): Yes, it's just that - there's nothing wrong with it. I just...

California Charlie, used car salesman (John Anderson): Sick of the sight of it! Well, why don't you have a look around here and see if there's somethin' that strikes your eyes and meanwhile I'll have my mechanic give yours the once over. You want some coffee? I was just about...

Marion Crane (Janet Leigh): No, thank you. I'm in a hurry. I just want to make a change, and...

California Charlie, used car salesman (John Anderson): One thing people never oughtta be when they're buyin' used cars and that's in a hurry. But like I said, it's too nice a day to argue. I'll uh - shoot your car in the garage here.

Victorian Jewellery Design

By Charlotte Gere
William Kimber and Co Ltd
1972 SBN 7183 0232 X

William Kimber and Co writes:

Jewellery design has rarely been so inventive as during the second half of the nineteenth century. Changes in fashion were closely followed, changes which increased in frequency with improved communications and regular international exhibitions, so that fashions which stemmed from Paris or Rome would soon be adopted in England—and America. While mechanical manufacture meant that the growing demand for fashionable jewellery could be met, contemporaries were alert to the dangers of mass production. The Great Exhibition of 1851 was itself directed to raise the standard of design in manufacture, and stern criticisms were leveled against the jewellery produced throughout the period, yet there survives today a wide selection of well designed nineteenth century jewellery of fine workmanship for the collector and the bargain-hunter to browse over.

Identifying the varied styles and fashions which influenced the craftsmen and manufacturers, such as the enthusiasm for neogothic, archaeological motifs, adaptations of Japanese and Indian art, and botanical novelties, Victorian Jewellery Design is an absorbing guide to the probable origin of many of these nineteenth century pieces—providing the kind of knowledge that enabled the author to identify a gold bracelet in an Oxfam shop as being made by Carlo Doria for Robert Phillips. It traces the influences underlying the changes of fashion, and shows how it was frequently artists—sometimes producing their own hand-made pieces—such as William Burges, Charles Rickett, the Pre-Raphaelites and the leaders of Art Nouveau, who introduced fresh inspiration, rather than the trade craftsmen.

Monday, March 05, 2007

The Tanzanite Story

Tanzanite is a variety of Zoisite named after its country of origin, Tanzania. It was first discovered in 1967 and is still the only place where it can be found. Tanzanite is known for its varying shades of violet; also occurs in brown, pink, greenish and yellow. All these shades may turn to blue upon heat treatment. The results of this treatment are stable. Tanzanite is an attractive stone with a color to match any other.

More info on mining practices @
http://www.irinnews.org/film/Gem-Slaves-view.htm

TANZANIA
Gem Slaves: Tanzanite's child labour
English transcript @ http://newsite.irinnews.org/Report.aspx?ReportId=61004

The Birds

Memorable quote (s) from the movie:

Mitch Brenner (Rod Tayler): What about the letter you wrote me, is that a lie, too?

Melanie Daniels (Tippie Hedren): No, I wrote the letter.

Mitch Brenner (Rod Tayler): Well what did it say?

Melanie Daniels (Tippie Hedren): It said 'Dear Mister Brenner, I think you need these lovebirds after all. They may help your personality.'

Mitch Brenner (Rod Tayler): But you tore it up?

Melanie Daniels (Tippie Hedren): Yes.

Mitch Brenner (Rod Tayler): Why?

Melanie Daniels (Tippie Hedren): Because it seemed stupid and foolish.

Mitch Brenner (Rod Tayler): Like jumping into a fountain in Rome?

Melanie Daniels (Tippie Tayler): I told you what happened!

Mitch Brenner (Rod Tayler): You don't expect me to believe that, do you?

Melanie Daniels (Tippie Hedren): Oh, I don't give a damn what you believe!

Mitch Brenner (Rod Tayler): I'd still like to see you.

Melanie Daniels (Tippie Hedren): Why?

Mitch Brenner (Rod Tayler): I think it might be fun.

Melanie Daniels (Tippie Hedren): Well it might have been good enough in Rome, but it's not good enough now.

Mitch Brenner (Rod Tayler): It is for me.

Melanie Daniels (Tippie Hedren): Well not for me!

Mitch Brenner (Rod Tayler): What do you want?

Melanie Daniels (Tippie Hedren): I thought you knew! I want to go through life jumping into fountains naked, good night!

Gems And Jewels

By Benjamin Zucker
Thames and Hudson
1984 ISBN 0-500-01326-8

Thames and Hudson writes:

From time immemorial precious stones have been prized as tokens of love, as symbols of wealth and social status, or as objects endowed with magical or religious significance. This comprehensive survey of the history and uses of the principal types of gems provides revealing insights into their origins, into methods and styles of cutting at different times in history, and into the aesthetic appeal of numerous examples of the jeweler’s art. Thus, garnet-ornamented objects from the Ango-Saxon Sutton Hoo ship burial vie for place with elaborate lapis lazuli funerary jewelry from ancient Egypt and Sumer, while the imaginative treatment of baroque pearls in the Renaissance period contrasts with the directness of North American Indian designs featuring the skystone, turquoise. Similarly, such magnificent objects as jade figures carved with exquisite subtlety by Chinese craftsmen and an emerald-encrusted crown by Pierre Arpels (from the former royal collection of Iran) serve to illustrate examples of work from widely differing cultures.

In addition to discussing outstanding specimen stones, such as the famous Tiffancy Diamond, and comparing key differences in shades of color within one type of gemstone—as in the case of opals from Australia and Mexico, and of sapphires from Kashmir and Ceylon—the author reveals the vital clues that enable the expert eye to distinguish between natural and synthetic stones and between natural and cultured pearls, and gives guidelines on methods of grading and on relative values.

Whatever one’s personal preference for colors, styles or materials, this lavishly illustrated book—with individual chapters devoted to ruby, sapphire, emerald, diamond, pearl, amber, lapis lazuli, jade, turquoise, opal and garnet—will provide a wealth of fascinating information.

About the author
Benjamin Zucker is the author of How to Buy and Sell Gems: Everyone’s guide to buying rubies, sapphires, emeralds and diamonds, and has conducted special seminars at the Smithsonian Institution, Washington, D.C.

Sunday, March 04, 2007

The Gem Scam

Here is an interesting report on gem scam (s) in Thailand, the colored gemstone capital of the world. There are endless variations, but an educated customer (s) in theory should never fall into the trap. Always do your research. If you are doubtful regarding gemstones have it checked by a reputed gem testing laboratory.

The ThaiGemScamGroup writes:

The Scam has been working for over 20 years, and succeeds due to several factors:

1.Complicity/indifference of local authorities.

2.Love/hate relationship between Thais and "Farang" (hate the victim, blame the victim).

3.Tourists can't stay in the country to press charges.

4.Tourists don't get to talk to one another and share information.

5.Everybody is greedy and wants to get rich quick.

There are several excellent sites that outline the process of the scam (including www.2bangkok.com) so do check out the Links page to get other points of view. Don't assume you are too smart to fall for this scam; they've been practicing it for 20 years. How long have you been dealing with scams?

Set up
There are, in fact, two variations on the scam, but both involved you paying far too much for jewellery. The other one is where a tuk tuk driver simply takes you to a gem shop and tells you to look around for 10 minutes; he gets a free gas coupon for each customer he brings in. This is simple and obvious, and most people don't make a purchase in this case.

The scam discussed on this page involves "coincidental" meetings with "friendly" Thais. Because of the coincidences and the friendliness of the people involved, the victim's guard is let down, thus ensuring the scam's success.The usual set up involves a tourist (or tourists, as couples get targeted as well) walking out of their hotel, on the street, near a tourist attraction, and being approached by a friendly Thai.

Thais, as a rule, do not approach foreigners alone. This is the first warning sign. The Thai will be very friendly and ask where you are from, where you are going, etc...perhaps identifying himself (herself) as a guide, a student, a government employee, a tuk tuk driver, etc.... Regardless of what you answer with regards to your destination, the Thai will give you some reason as to why you can't go there. People going to the Grand Palace or Wat Pho are commonly told that it is closed for some holiday involving Buddha or the Royal Family.

The Grand Palace and Wat Pho are a main attraction of Bangkok, one that provides a large amount of revenue through admission fees. As such, they are both open 365 days/year; why would they close? This is the second warning sign. They both open at 8am and the Grand Palace closes at 15:30pm while the Wat Pho closes at 17:00pm. Note there is only one entrance for the Grand Palace and that *parts* of the Grand Palace may be closed for royal functions, but never the entire complex.

Never fear, however, your Thai "friend" will tell you about another temple or Wat that is open. They usually say that it is not normally open to the public, it is just today. The Thai usually also mentions the Asia economic crisis, and how it is harder for Thai students to pay for their studies abroad with the devaluation of the Thai currency. Usually, there will be a mention of how the government lets Thai students sell one jewellery set a year, tax free, to help fund their studies abroad.

The Thai may or not mention that foreigners are allowed to participate in this scheme once a year, in a bid to promote tourism. The Thai then tells you about the special tuk tuks that take tourists around for a special rate, due to the holiday. Usually this is 20 baht/hour or something like that, and they'll always tell you there are only certain tuk tuks that do this.

There are no government or special tuk tuks. They are all privately owned and no one in our group has yet to meet an honest tuk tuk driver. This is the third warning sign.

The Thai will choose the tuk tuk (he has to in order to get his accomplice, although there are several tuk tuk drivers in on this). He will arrange things for you and send you off to this other temple.In fact, there is nothing too special about this temple, but it is quiet and deserted. The tuk tuk driver will send you in, assuring you that he will wait. Of course he will, he has to be the one to take you to the gem store.

You wander around the temple where you will meet the second "friendly" Thai. He may approach you, asking you questions or offering some advice; you may approach him, because he dropped his keys and walked away; some monk might lead you to a quiet corner of the temple where a man is meditating. In all cases, it is a casual, chance encounter, with all the friendliness and coincidence to disarm your suspicions. He will identify himself as a businessman, student, whatever he thinks will allay your suspicions.

This Thai will ask you various questions about you and somehow steer the conversation back to jewellery. They often get you to mention it, as you've heard about it from the other Thai earlier. Almost always, they make no effort to sell to you, they drop some hints that lead you to ask questions. You are made to feel like you are lucky to know about this, or that you would be foolish to miss out. They tell you that foreigners are allowed to participate in this for only a short time each year, and today is always the last day. They even have a receipt showing that they just bought jewellery that very day.

The Thai government does not have a 195% export tax on jewellery, and couldn't care less about foreigners taking jewellery out of the country. Your own country's Customs, however, does care about how much you import back into your country, making any Thai government promise meaningless. This is the fourth warning sign.

Note that at this point, a foreigner might join the conversation, if not at the temple, then at the shop itself. The foreigner will assure you it is all legitimate, that he/she uses it to pay for his trip all the time. It may also be another Thai who tells you they live abroad and come home once a year for this. In either case, it adds to the legitimacy of the scam, and adds to the number of "coincidences" that you encounter. By now you are curious. The tuk tuk driver may take you to yet another temple, for yet another "chance" meeting with someone who confirms the story. Usually, you are now on your way to the gem store. This is your last chance to save yourself from a very bad experience.

The gem store itself will make every effort to look respectable. There will be staff in uniforms, display cases, etc....but most shops will not have windows, or else they are covered up. Officially recognized jewellery stores should have a Jewelfest logo in plain view, although given the proliferation of fake identification in Thailand, this guarantees nothing.

You will always be taken to a separate room, not left in the main selling area. There will be almost no other customers, and if there are, it will be a foreigner again, who confirms the story and tells you exactly what everyone else said. In this smaller room, you are told the same story, shown a book with photocopies of other passports of "customers", and assured that you can get your money back under any circumstances.The transaction involves mailing the jewellery back to you, or to whatever address you give them (parents, Poste Restante in another country, etc...).

Your country's Customs treats goods imported by you the same, regardless of whether they are with you or were sent to you via the mail system. If this is a tax free purchase, they should not object to you taking the jewellery with you. The use of the mail system is essential in making this scam work. This is the fifth warning sign.

Most people do not have the cash with them. The stores never have credit card machines, so those people wanting to pay via credit cards are told the shop does not usually do business with the public, so they have no credit card machine. Fear not, their other store does sell to the public, so they will loan you their car, driver and escort to that store to run your credit card through the machine. This is a gold store, where you are told you have to buy gold (for whatever reason, inventory, tax purposes, etc...) and take the gold with you. You will trade the gold for the jewellery set. If you pay cash, they will give you their car, driver and escort to take you to your ATM or wherever else you need to go to get your cash.

Back at the jewellery store, you get all kinds of official looking receipts, they show you the courier package they put the jewellery in, make you sign the envelope once it's sealed to ensure no one tampers with the package, and you've now overpaid for cheap jewellery.

As a sign of their gratitude, they will always give your their car and driver and take you around town, to a restaurant, tourist attractions, Thai massages, etc...They do this to distract you and get your package to the mail center as quickly as possible. If they can get your package out of the country before you realize you've been scammed, it will take you over a week to get the gems back in your possession, giving them time to close up shop and vanish forever.

Have you been scammed? If so, click here to find out what options you have. Was this description useful to you?

Send your comments, suggestions and feedback to thaigemscamgroup@yahoo.com.

Gone With The Wind

Memorable quote (s) from the movie:

Scarlett (Vivien Leigh): Oh, Rhett! Please, don't go! You can't leave me! Please! I'll never forgive you!

Rhett Butler (Clarke Gable): I'm not asking you to forgive me. I'll never understand or forgive myself. And if a bullet gets me, so help me, I'll laugh at myself for being an idiot. There's one thing I do know... and that is that I love you, Scarlett. In spite of you and me and the whole silly world going to pieces around us, I love you. Because we're alike. Bad lots, both of us. Selfish and shrewd. But able to look things in the eyes as we call them by their right names.

Scarlett (Vivien Leigh): Don't hold me like that!

Rhett Butler (Clarke Gable): Scarlett! Look at me! I've loved you more than I've ever loved any woman and I've waited for you longer than I've ever waited for any woman.

Scarlett (Vivien Leigh): Let me alone!

Rhett Butler (Clarke Gable): Here's a soldier of the South who loves you, Scarlett. Wants to feel your arms around him, wants to carry the memory of your kisses into battle with him. Never mind about loving me, you're a woman sending a soldier to his death with a beautiful memory. Scarlett! Kiss me! Kiss me... once...

The Great American Sapphire

By Stephen M Voynick
Mountain Press Publishing Company
1985 ISBN 0-87842-193-9

Stephen M Votnick writes:

To most Americans, the word sapphire has an intriguing foreign flavor conjuring images of crown jewels, sultans, turbaned natives, and the steamy jungles of exotic places like Ceylon and Burma. Many Americans, including myself, were quite surprised to learn recently that the United States had suddenly emerged as a commercial source of what some gem experts consider the world’s finest sapphire. Even more surprising was that the entire production came from little-known Montana mine with the unlikely name of Yogo, a mine which, sixty years earlier, had produced $25 million in fine cut sapphire for the British.

My interest in western mining led me to Yogo where I found not only a mine, but a remarkable geological story backed by a century of rich Montana history. That history, in passing from generation to generation, had evolved into a loose collection of colorful frontier folklore and romanticized legends. More fascinating was the real story that lay hidden in disjointed company files and correspondence, dusty geological reports and decades of yellowed newspaper clippings—even in some of the works of Charles M Russell. Yogo was far more than a common tale of mineral discovery and exploitation; it was the culmination of a forgotten chapter of American history—the search for precious gemstones.

America’s frontier expansion coincided with a great period in gemstone history that included discovery of the Siam and Kashmir sapphires, the South African diamond fields, and the British development of Burma’s legendary Mogok Stone Tract. Americans headed west in love with, and obsessed by, gold. But they were also aware of the possibility of—and perhaps even anticipated—the discovery of native precious gemstones. Yet, when sapphires were finally discovered in Montana, the same miners who wrote the book on gold were shown to be profoundly naïve in matters related to precious gemstones, thus opening the door to eager British gem merchants.

Unlike that of the great gold strikes, the Yogo sapphire story did not die with the frontier. Although yesterday’s claim stakes and sluice boxes are gone, equally exciting chapters in the Yogo story are now being written in corporate board rooms, gem industry trade journals, gemological laboratories and, most importantly, in the display cases of thousands of retail jewelry stores across the United States.

Montana’s Yogo sapphire deposit is a true bonanza that economically overshadows many major gold strikes, but sapphires, while far more valuable on a weight-for-weight basis, were unlike gold. Gold required merely digging and selling; sapphires demanded marketing, a lesson that hopeful American sapphire miners would take ninety years to learn. Yogo is an historical treasure, but the story of the Yogo sapphires is really just beginning, for only now are South African diamonds, Colombian emeralds and Burmese rubies being belatedly joined by a native American precious gemstone that is every bit their equal—the Montana sapphire.

Saturday, March 03, 2007

Driving Miss Daisy

Memorable quote (s) from the movie:

Daisy Werthan (Jessica Tandy): You know your letters don't you?

Hoke Colburn (Morgan Freeman): Oh yeah, yeah I know my ABC's pretty good, just can't read.

Daisy Werthan (Jessica Tandy): Stop saying that you're making me mad! If you know your letters you can read. You just don't know you can read.

Hoke Colburn (Morgan Freeman): Maam?

Daisy Werthan (Jessica Tandy): I taught some of the stupidest children God ever put on the face of this earth and all of them could read well enough to find a name on a tombstone.

Faberge The Entrepreneur

(via Lapidary Journal) Si & Ann Frazier writes:

Faberge may have turned his name into pure cachet with the firms imperial Easter Eggs, but he probably didn’t make much money on these unbelievably labor-intensive pieces. His bread-and-butter work was in smaller, simpler, less-expensive objects that were still imaginatively styled and superbly constructed in a catalog published in 1899 (translated by K Snowman 1952, p.139). Faberge gives his policy on quality and pricing, which should interest today’s gem and jewelry wannabes and professional alike.

“……as to the quality of our products, it will be sufficient to acquaint our customers with the following…principles which have always guided us during the many years of our business:

1. It is our strict rule not to supply any goods of poor quality under any circumstances. In other words, every object, be its value no more than one ruble is made solidly and carefully.

2. It has always been our endeavor, and our clients can see this for themselves, to offer to the public the greatest possible number of entirely new forms and designs. Goods which have gone out of fashion will not remain in our shop: once a year they are collected and melted down.

3. We try to produce our goods in such a way that the value of each object purchased from us fully corresponds with the sum paid for it, i.e we sell our goods as cheaply as their careful execution permits.

4. Thanks to our considerable capital resources, we are always able to make and hold at the disposal of our clients a large quantity of the most varied and valuable articles.

5. Under no circumstances do we tolerate the possibility of any objects equal in quality to our own being sold elsewhere at a lower price than that fixed by us, for the reason (that) our own prices are always moderate and correspond to the quality of the stones and the workmanship which went into the production of the article; at the same time, we beg to point out that the goods made of the best quality material will naturally be more expensive than those made of materials of inferior quality.

“The range of models and designs fully correspond to the range of prices. Taking into account both the need of the higher classes of society as well as the interests of the middle class, we provide both the luxury and expensive goods to satisfy the most refined taste as well as the inexpensive goods within the reach of the not so well-to-do.”

Blue Mystery: The Story Of The Hope Diamond

By Susanne Steinem Patch
Smithsonian Institution Press
1976 ISBN 0-87474-165-3

Susanne Steinem Patch writes:

Minerals, particularly those rare and beautiful enough to be gems, have been my lifelong interest. When I was director of an educational diamond exhibit I became familiar with the stories of all the famous diamonds and found that of the Hope most fascinating because of the mystery surrounding its origin. A desire to dispel that mystery started me on my research, and the many inconsistencies in the diamond’s history spurred me on. How, for example, could one of its owners, the actress May Yohe, be pictured in a newspaper clipping supposedly wearing the Hope diamond in the mounting that was made for its subsequent owner, Evalyn Walsh Mclean?

An exciting moment in my research came when, through great good luck, I uncovered two original sketches of the Hope diamond made in 1812. These drawings document the diamond’s existence in its present form eighteen years earlier than the 1830 date usually given for its first appearance.

Just as this book was going to press, museum authorities permitted the Hope diamond to be removed from its mounting and weighed. It was found that the diamond weighs 45.52 carats (in modern metric carats). This is discussed further on page 62. The most exciting moment of all for me occurred when, placing the Hope diamond upside down on a slip of white paper, I—like the lapidary in 1812—traced (it) round the diamond with a pencil and discovered that the outline I had drawn, complete with one flattened side, was identical to the earlier drawing.

Many questions will remain unanswered; perhaps the Hope diamond, like the complex and powerful people who have been driven to possess it, can never be completely known. But if any reader has additional information to contribute about the tantalizing gaps in this diamond’s history, please write to me in care of the Smithsonian Institution Press, Washington, D.C. 20560

Friday, March 02, 2007

Asia's Fashion Jewellery & Accessories Fair

JewelleryNetAsia writes:

Asia's Fashion Jewellery & Accessories Fair is the only trade event in Asia dedicated to the fashion jewellery and accessories industry. Two editions are held each year in June and September. Commencing 2007, a third edition will be held in March.

The new March edition is in response to numerous requests from the trade for a spring event that will provide buying opportunities for products for the Fall/Winter season. Demand for a spring edition was sparked by the changing trends in the fashion jewellery and accessories industry, which is dependent on having a constant supply of new, creative and stylish products for each season.

The new spring edition will provide buyers from around the world the opportunity to source new, trendy fashion jewellery items that will enrich the spectrum of products and increase their competitive edge in the marketplace.

Hong Kong's Special Economic Environment Facilitates Business
Located at the heart of the fastest-growing markets in Asia Pacific, Hong Kong is a free port with an extremely business-friendly environment that does not impose any import or export duties or taxes on products. This makes Hong Kong the ideal place for traders, manufacturers, wholesalers and retailers from around the world to source a wide array of products at competitive prices without the hassle of restrictions and duties.

Fair Dates & Times
7 - 9 March, 2007 10:30am - 6:30pm
10 March, 2007 10:30am - 5:30pm

More info @ Department, Jewellery Fairs
Tel: (852) 2516 1655 / 1652 / 1661 / 1646
Fax: (852) 2802 9934
Email: salesafj@cmpasia.com
Website: http://www.JewelleryNetAsia.com

Promotion Department, Jewellery Fairs
Tel: (852) 25162158
Fax: (852) 2802 9934
Email: visiting@jewellerynetasia.com
Website: http://www.jewellerynetasia.com

The Union Budget Impact

Here is an update on the Union Budget (India) 2007, and its impact on the gem and jewelry sector.

(via) Times News Network writes:

The Union Budget may have brought some shine back for the gems and jewellery industry, but the announcements are not just enough to make it glitter.

The FM’s decision to reduce duty on cut and polished diamonds (CPD) from 5% to 3%, rough synthetic stones (from 12.5% to 5%) and unworked corals (from 30% to 10%) has evinced mixed reactions. While some players welcomed the move as a step in the right direction, others said it didn’t go far enough — zero duty on diamond imports would have helped attract global interest in India’s diamond trade.

The FM has also proposed the introduction of a benign assessment procedure for assesses engaged in diamond manufacturing and trading who declare profits from such activities at 8% or more of the turnover.

While instructions in this regard are to be issued shortly, industry sources are not sure whether the 8% implies gross or net profit. Net profit, they say, is around 3% and a clarification needs to be issued on this count.

“The budget has been neutral. We had anticipated relaxation in import of gold but that has not come through though there has been a reduction in import duty on cut and polished diamonds, rough synthetic stones and unworked corals,” said Rajesh Mehta, chairman of Bangalore-based Rajesh Exports.

Sources added turnover tax regime is followed by leading diamond-producing centres such as Belgium and Israel, and, if introduced in India, would preclude needless legal wrangling between tax assessors and assesses as to valuation of stock (diamond), a key problem that the industry faces today.

Bakul Mehta, convenor, diamond panel, Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC), says there are billions of stones produced and no standard input-output norms to determine the value of the stock. “Even within the same mine different quality of diamonds can be generated, quality differs from lot-to-lot and within the same lot,” he explained.

Stating that the duty cut on CPD and other raw materials was a positive step, GJEPC Chairman Sanjay Kothari said, “The industry had expected reduction on CPD from 5% to 0% which would have helped India emerge from the largest manufacturing centre to the largest trading centre at a rapid pace.”

GJEPC said the introduction of turnover tax regime was a historical step. The move is affirmative and encouraging. The industry still awaits the exact details of the taxation system and expects it to be in line with international practices. However, the industry expected the turnover tax to be applicable for the entire gems & jewellery sector.

Su-Raj Diamonds & Jewellery CMD Jatin Mehta said, “The FM is on the dot in recognizing the need to reduce duty. These steps are in the right direction and will enable the diamond industry, which is going through a rough patch, to compete with other international centers like Belgium and Israel.”

“As far as turnover tax is concerned it is still not clear how it would unfold and what impact it would have on industry. A duty cut of 2% may not serve the purpose of our exporters as many countries have a zero duty regime. Reduction of duty in synthetic stones will boost consumption at the lower end,” said Gitanjali Gems chairman Mehul Choksi.

More info @ http://economictimes.indiatimes.com/Gem_of_an_idea_but_the_sparks_still_missing/articleshow/1704435.cms

Buying Ametrine Rough

(via Lapidary Journal) Lawrence Stoller writes:

The truth be told, I felt a little gluttonous as I held stone after stone to the sunlight, looking for the sharp, contrasting colors of purple and yellow, for I lusted after almost every piece I saw. I use two different selection criteria when I am examining rough material for cutting. The first is what I call the logical criteria. With ametrine, I first look for how clean the stone is internally. Is it filled with veils and cracks, or are there large areas of brilliant flawless material? Second, I look for color. Are the two colors present or it is primarily one color? Is there a distinct color line between the purple and yellow, or do the two colors blend to create yet another unnamed blue?

As one side of my brain makes these intellectual assessments, the other side gives an instant, emotional response. Either I got a resounding Yes!, a No, or an I don’t know. I have learned to go with the yes, even if it is in contrast to the logical criteria response, because sometimes there is a surprise that I might not have seen with my eye, but I knew intuitively was there, waiting to be discovered.

I feel a responsibility for every stone I procure. As a cutter, I know that when acquiring a stone, I am initiating a relationship, a romance so to speak. Thus, as in any relationship there needs to be a spark of attraction, a desire for involvement, and a commitment to spend the time and creative energy to see the transformation of the stone through, from its rough state to its finest finished form. I have found that when examining a piece of rough I need to have an imagination for the finished form, a feeling of desire to achieve it, and a real expectation that it will turn out beautifully before I spend either money or time on a piece. And I find that ametrine can appear brilliantly happy if one knows how to treat it right.

The Color Purple

Memorable quote (s) from the movie:

Shug (Margaret Avery): More than anything God love admiration.

Celie (Whoopi Goldberg): You saying God is vain?

Shug (Margaret Avery): No, not vain, just wanting to share a good thing. I think it pisses God off when you walk by the colour purple in a field and don't notice it.

Celie (Whoopi Goldberg): You saying it just wanna be loved like it say in the bible?

Shug (Margaret Avery): Yeah, Celie. Everything wanna be loved. Us sing and dance, and holla just wanting to be loved. Look at them trees. Notice how the trees do everything people do to get attention... except walk?

Shug (Margaret Avery): Oh, yeah, this field feels like singing!

The Book Of Diamonds

By Joan Younger Dickinson
Avenel Books / Crown Publishers
1965

Avenel Books writes:

Diamonds have dazzled every age and society of mankind since before the days of Alexander the Great. For centuries the big rocks were jealously hoarded by the Indian Moguls, then bought and traded for fabulous sums by the crowned heads of Europe; in more recent times, they have found their way into the possessions of wealthy individuals and famed museums.

Today, as any bride knows, diamonds are no longer solely the prerogative of the rich and royalty. Gem diamonds are prized by millions for their romance, their special status, and their investment value. Industrial diamonds are indispensably keeping the wheels of world industry turning. On the current market the values of diamonds are booming.

Never before has the whole story of diamonds been told so dramatically and illustrated so profusely as in this new volume. From the first diamonds every discovered, probably in the Golconda mines of India, the author traces their history and lore, through the Brazilian diggings to the South African diamond rush and the development of the De Beers Consolidated Mines, Ltd., who presently handle eighty percent of the world’s diamonds. Dramatic step-by-step photographs show the process of mining the modern diamond and the intricacies how it is cut and faceted.

Here are the stories of the most famous and infamous diamonds of all times: the Koh-i-noor now in the Tower of London, the Hope in our own Smithsonian Institution, the Regent in the Louvre, the Orloff in the Kremlin, the cleaved and faceted Cullinan adorning the British Crown Jewels, as well as many which have mysteriously vanished, such as the Florentine, the Pigott, and the Stewart. The United States can boast of several famous diamonds found in Murfreesboro, Arkansas; the Uncle Sam and the Star of Arkansas.

Diamonds have played their dazzling roles in American fashion among millionaires and working girls alike. The author tells this story from then embryonic jewelry stores along New York’s Maiden Path in the 1700s to the twentieth-century plush establishments along Fifth Avenue.

But this book is for more than a story of diamonds; it is also a practical guide for anyone who owns a diamond or plans to buy one. It explains and illustrates for the uninitiated the different diamond cuts, the role of carats, and how to buy diamonds for sentiment, for beauty, for show, for flawlessness, or for investment. To the prospective bridegroom and his fiancée, the author offers the accepted etiquette and practical advice on buying the diamond engagement ring and answers the specific questions they are most likely to ask, including how to clean and care for her ring. For students of gemology there is a large, informative glossary of diamond terms.

The Book Of Diamonds is illustrated with many old engravings of diamond mining, reproductions of museum painting, photographs of diamonds being mined and cut, famous diamonds in their present settings, plus a choice collection of award winning traditional and modern diamond pieces: rings, bracelets, brooches, pins, earclips, watches, and tiaras. Everyone who thrills to the diamond’s matchless brilliance will find this an enjoyable and thoroughly worthwhile book to own—along with the diamond that is forever.

About the author
Joan Younger Dickinson began her writing career as a reported in New York for United Press International. For more than a decade she was staff writer and an associate editor of the Ladies Home Journal. Author and editor of several books on social history, she worked in Istanbul, Antwerp, Amsterdam, London, and New York studying the diamond before completing this book.

Thursday, March 01, 2007

The Bottom Of The Pyramid

C.K. Prahalad, author of The Fortune at the Bottom of the Pyramid writes:

The bottom of the pyramid is comprised of 5 billion underserved and unserved people. It is not a monolith--there are many demographic layers within it--and it's not just the poorest of the poor. But I'm not interested in the pseudo-efficiency of trying to precisely measure poverty. I'm interested in business innovations that will bring the BOP (bottom of the pyramid) into the market-driven economy.

Opticon

Nearly all emeralds are treated with a liquid or resin after cutting. The most popular filler is a synthetic polyester epoxy resin called Opticon. Opticon is nearly transparent and light amber in color. The refractive index is approximately 1.545. Treaters may use green Opticon to improve the color of emeralds without proper disclosure. Opticon may turn yellow after many months/years. With some training, proper magnification and comparison stones you should be able to detect dispersion flashes, trapped gas bubbles, and unique texture (s) inside the stone. All treatments should be disclosed at all levels of the distribution chain. If you are doubtful have it checked by a reputed gem testing laboratory.

Throwing Good Money After Bad

Here is an interesting article on money and its unique phenomenon in the real world.

Robert Kiyosaki writes:

All booms eventually go bust. We all remember the stock market crash of 2000, and most of us remember the real estate crash after the implementation of the 1986 Tax Reform Act. Today, many people are anticipating another real estate crash.

Unfortunately, despite our understanding of booms and inevitable busts, it's always near the top of a boom that "dumb money" buys in. Currently, this has set the scene for a potential market bust of which few people are aware. I'll describe it today's column, and advise how best to prepare in my next column.

Express-Lane Inspiration
About a year ago, I wrote a Yahoo! Finance column warning readers that the real estate boom was over. How did I forecast the end of the boom? I got my hot tip from the cashier at my local Safeway supermarket.

While she was tallying the cost of my apples, broccoli, and steaks, she handed me her new real estate agent's card and invited me to call her for my next real estate investment. Moments later, I was home writing that column. As my rich dad used to say, "When dumb money chases smart money, the party's over." Needless to say, many real estate agents and investors wrote me nasty notes.

I'm not a hundred-percent certain where things are going today. Most economists are forecasting a strong economy, but economists worry me more than newly minted real estate agents. Most seem to be happy that inflation is in check; when I hear that inflation is in check, I begin to think about deflation, and as most of us know, deflation is much, much, worse than inflation.

An Inconvenient Truth
In the simplest terms, inflation occurs when there' too much money in the system. On the flip side, deflation occurs when there are too few dollars in circulation. When that happens, prices start to fall. For example, in inflationary times, prices of houses go up. In deflationary times, prices of houses come down. If prices of houses begin to drop too fast right now, it could be 1986 all over again.

I wrote a column in 2005 about how I love debt and my credit cards. The trouble is that most people do. Today, you can qualify for a loan to buy a house simply if you're alive and breathing. The strong economy we've been experiencing for years has thus been built on dumb money -- in addition to smart money -- borrowing more and more. Even the U.S. government has had a field day borrowing money to do such things as fight a war and attempt to rebuild Iraq and Afghanistan rather than rebuild our country. And the inconvenient truth about debt is that it has to be paid back.

A Certain Ratio
For the next two years, I'm cautioning people to watch their ratios between good debt and bad debt, and keep liquid reserves such as cash, gold, or silver.

Good debt is debt that makes you rich. An example of good debt is the debt on the apartment houses I own. That debt is good only as long as there are tenants to pay my mortgages. If tenants stop paying their rent, my good debt turns into bad debt.

Most people don't have good debt -- all they have is bad debt. Bad debt is debt that makes you poorer. I count the mortgage on my home as bad debt, because I'm the one paying on it. Other forms of bad debt are car payments, credit card balances, or other consumer loans.

On our home, my wife, Kim, and I keep a 25 percent debt-to-equity ratio. In other words, our debt is 25 percent of the home's value. Unfortunately, many people have an 80 percent or higher debt-to-equity ratio. That means the debt on their home is 80 percent and their equity is only 20 percent.

On our investment properties, we carry a higher debt-to-equity ratio. To protect ourselves, we have cash reserves to cover the expenses of the properties. For example, in case all the tenants leave and no one is left to pay the mortgage and expenses, we have separate funds for each property, with enough liquidity -- i.e. cash, stocks, and bonds -- to carry the building for a year. Unfortunately, the dumb-money crowd has no reserve funds for their properties.

Where Deflation Does Its Damage
In a deflationary market, the value of your home can drop. If the value drops, the bank may call in your loan. Even if you've never missed a payment, and even if you're ahead on the payment schedule, the bank can call in your loan if they feel the value of the property is lower than the loan amount.

For example, say you buy a house for $100,000 and put 20 percent down and borrow $80,000. If the market deflates and the value of your home drops to $70,000 (because everyone else is selling their homes to get out of debt), the lender may ask you to pay the $80,000 you owe immediately.

If such deflation happens, cash will become king. There will be half-price sales on BMWs, expensive restaurants will close, and people will be out of work. And anybody who caters to people with dumb money will be in trouble. As I said before, deflation is much worse than inflation.

Smart Money, Bad Times
The good news is that during deflationary times, smart money reenters the market, so crashes are great for smart people with smart money. Instead of listening to the optimistic economists, then, you should eliminate bad debt and improve your debt-to-equity ratios on good debt.

Most important, study; if you want to be smart, you need to learn. I'll discuss what you should study in the second part of this column. For now, be aware that if deflation comes and there's a recession, it won't have much effect on the poor. Instead, it'll punish middle-class people who think they're rich because their houses and stocks have gone up in value.

I'll explain more in a couple of weeks.

More info @ http://finance.yahoo.com/expert/article/richricher/24515

The Wizard Of Oz

Memorable quote from the movie:

Auntie Em Gale (Clara Blandick): Almira Gulch. Just because you own half the town doesn't mean that you have the power to run the rest of us. For twenty-three years I've been dying to tell you what I thought of you! And now... well, being a Christian woman, I can't say it!

Opal: Identification and Value

By Paul B Downing
Majestic Press
1992 ISBN 0-9625311-2-X

Paul Downing writes:

My goal as I set out to do this book more than 3 years ago, was to produce a methodology for valuing opals which worked. But more important it had to work the same way for every person who used it. Thus, it was necessary to combine definitions of the various characteristics of an opal with a visual, measurable and reproducible criteria. It needed to be visual so that each person who used the definition gained the same sense of meaning from the words. A picture is worth a thousand words, especially when describing opal characteristics. Measurable criteria had to be developed so that each stone could be objectively characterized. The criteria had to be reproducible so that each individual using the valuing methodology employed the same meaning for each item.

Photographs were the only way. I am fortunate to know to excellent opal photographers, Len Cram and Rudy Weber, who have large libraries of pictures of opals of all types and characteristics. Each has access to some of the best opals found in Australia. Their photo libraries are an attempt to chronicle this exciting stone. Just to see them is a real treat. They are wonderful.

I searched through their libraries and selected pictures that would best illustrate the characteristics I needed for visual criteria. I did not always select the most beautiful picture, although there is plenty of beauty within these pages. Rather, I selected pictures for the utilitarian purpose of adding a visual to the definitions to be contained in this book. Without the help of Rudy and Len this book could not have been done. I am deeply in their debt.

Originally I was going to make my own estimates for value and set up a panel of experts to produce periodic updates. The more I thought about that, the more work it seemed. Then my wonderful wife, Bobbi, suggested a simple solution. Why not use someone else’s estimates of market value? The someone else was Richard Drucker and his market assessment of colored stones called The Guide. Terrific idea. Richard and his panel were already doing estimates of opal value and updating them periodically. Exactly what I needed, leaving me time to research more thoroughly the individual characteristics. Richard and I talked and he agreed to let me use his data. Again, I couldn’t do it without him.

The result of using The Guide as the basis for value is that this book never becomes outdated. To get a current reading of market value all you have to do is consult the current issue of The Guide. Then you can use the prices it contains with the methodology presented in this book to obtain the latest market estimate of the value of any opal.

The whole book is set up with one goal in mind. I want any user, anywhere in the world, to identify all the relevant characteristics of a particular opal in exactly the same way. The book is, unfortunately, quite detailed. This detail is needed so that each reader understands the subtle differences that can have a significant affect on value.

To make this detail a little less difficult to follow, I have broken down the process. The book instructs step-by-step, one characteristic at a time. When all the characteristics have been explained, I show how they are put together to form an estimate of value.

I have attempted to make the book complete by covering all sources of opal that appear on the market from Australia, Mexico, America, Brazil, Honduras and Hungary. I have covered all types too, including solid opal (black, white, and crystal), boulder opal, matrix opal, carved opal, doublets, triplets, synthetics and simulated. However, new sources appear yearly. Fortunately, the characteristics that make opal valuable, even opal from new sources, are covered in this book. Using these characteristics you should be able to estimate the market reaction to that new opal from Timbuktu.

It is important to realize that the use of the terms I define here have evolved in the industry over time and by word of mouth. It is inevitable that others will use or visualize these terms a little differently. Hopefully this book will be a first step toward a common and consistent terminology. Remember that definitions are never wrong—they are just different. I hope to narrow these differences.

I realize that the opal market is alive and well, and thus always in state of change. I cannot hope to anticipate the future. Rather, I have done my best to give the most accurate picture of the market at this time.

To do this I have consulted with various opal experts. I have had the privilege of sitting and kibitzing with the Opal Advisory Service of the Lightning Ridge Miners Association on numerous occasions. I have discussed pricing and this project at length with various opal experts in Australia, including Richard Osmond, Joy Clayton, Greg Sherman and John Traurig of Sydney; Ted Priester and Len Cram of Lightning Ridge; Ewe Barfuss of Yowah; Andrew Cody of Melbourne; Andrew Shelley of Coober Pedy; Stafford Scott of Mintabie; Mario Anic of Andamooka; and many others. Several opal cutters in Hong Kong have been most helpful, especially Sunny Li and Peter Su.

In the United States I have consulted with David Baitel, Martin Bell, Tony Dabdoub, Richard Drucker, Brian Franks, Keith Griffin, Glen and Keith Hodson, Bill Maison, Gerry Manning, and Charlie Smith, among others. None of these very helpful people agree with me completely, but I have taken their advice to the best of my ability. Presentations of these ideas at various meetings of the Accredited Gemologists Association and at the GIA International Symposium have helped me clarify and refine this book. My early article, Evaluating Cut Opal, appeared in the December, 1987 issue of Rock & Gem. This article was stimulated by a prior attempt at a pricing system put out by the American Opal Society.

Specific detailed reviews of drafts of parts or all of this book were done by Len Cram, Richard Drucker, Pat Dunnigan, Richard Osmond and Ted Priester. Without the help of all these people I could not have created this book. Still I must accept all the blame for the remaining errors. I hope you find this book helpful, and may be a little entertaining from time to time.

Wednesday, February 28, 2007

Diamonds Changing Facets

Here is an update on diamonds.

Economist writes:

An industry once dominated by a cartel is starting to look like any other. DIAMONDS are back on the big screen. The stones serenaded by Marilyn Monroe as a girl's best friend are now, however, portrayed by Hollywood as Africa's worst enemies. Leonardo DiCaprio may win an Academy Award for his performance in “Blood Diamond”, as a mercenary hunting for the precious rocks during the war in Sierra Leone in the 1990s. But in reality, the shape of the industry—which produces an estimated $13 billion of rough stones and over $62 billion of diamond jewellery—has greatly changed since then.

More info @ http://www.economist.com/business/displaystory.cfm?story_id=8743058

Joban Oil

Nearly all emeralds are treated with a liquid or resin after cutting. In India, Joban oil (green) is the choice for treating commercial grade emeralds. The treaters believe the oil improves the overall gemstonality of the emeralds. All treatments should be disclosed at all levels of the distribution chain. If you are doubtful have it checked by a reputed gem testing laboratory.

The Color Of Money

Memorable quote (s) from the movie:

Eddie Felson (Paul Newman): You're some piece of work... You're also a natural character.

Vincent Lauria (Tom Cruise): You see? I been tellin' her that. I got natural character.

Eddie Felson (Paul Newman): That's not what I said, kid. I said you are a natural character; you're an incredible flake. But that's a gift. Some guys spend half their lives trying to invent something like that. You walk into a pool room with that go-go-go, the guys'll be killing each other, trying to get to you. You got that... But I'll tell you something, kiddo. You couldn't find Big Time if you had a road map.

The Koh-i-noor Diamond

By Stephen Howarth
Quartet Books Limited
1980 ISBN 0-7043-2215-3

Stephen Howarth writes:

Koh-i-noor: the name means Mountain of Light. The diamond called the Koh-i-noor is one of the most famous of the Crown Jewels of Great Britain. It is not the largest diamond in the world, nor is it the most valuable, in monetary terms. Whether or not it is the most beautiful is a matter of opinion; but of all existing jewels, it has the longest history in legend, and the most colorful history in fact.

Diamonds are symbols of eternity. The word comes from the Greek adamas, meaning unalterable and indomitable. This, and the poetic name ‘Mountain of Light’, together indicate the reasons for the high regard in which diamonds have always been held: their beauty and their endurance. Diamonds are one of the hardest natural substances in the world, and many of their uses nowadays are for industrial purposes. But for thousands of years previously they were sought for their beauty, and by their rarity became the province of kings.

The Koh-i-noor was found in an Indian mine, probably more than three hundred years ago, and as the fortunes of India have varied in those three centuries, so the Koh-i-noor has changed hands from one conqueror to another. Through the changes, this special diamond has gradually acquired its own particular symbolism. It has meant different things to different people; to many, it has been an emblem of power and conquest and empire. To others, it has represented something more peaceful, and it is an image of union, factually and philosophically. Diamonds as fact, symbol and legend are woven inextricably into the paradox of Indian society, simultaneously changeless and everchanging. This marriage of constancy and variability can be a difficult concept for many Western minds, but it is this very concept which makes the Koh-i-noor a jewel literally beyond price, for the story of the Koh-i-noor reflects the history of the subcontinent of India. It is a turbulent story, sometimes cruel and violent, sometimes peaceful and calm; and it starts not three hundred years ago, but three thousand years ago, in India’s oldest legends.

The Owners of the Koh-i-noor
Mir Jumla, one-time wazir to the King of Golkonda, presented it to Shah Jahan, the Mogul Emperor, c. 1655-7. It descended to Auragazeb, Shah Jahan’s son. In 1655 it was seen, weighed and measured by Jean Baptiste Tavernier, a French jeweler. It remained with the Moguls until 1739, when it was lost to Nadir Shah, the Persian emperor, after his sack of Delhi. The jewel went to Persia. After Nadir’s assassination in 1747, his grandson Shah Rukh Mirza inherited the jewel. In gratitude for support he gave it to Ahmad Shah, leader of the Durrani clan and unifier of Afghanistan, in 1749. The jewel remained in Afghanistan with Ahmad’s son, Zaman Shah, who inherited it in 1793. Zaman was imprisoned and blinded by one of his brothers, but contrived to hide the jewel, until he passed it on to another brother, Shah Shuja, in 1795. Shuja eventually surrendered it to Ranjit Singh, the ‘Lion of the Punjab’, in 1813, in return for military aid. On Ranjit’s death the jewel passed to Dhulip Singh, his supposed son, in 1839. On the annexation of the Punjab by the British, in 1849, the jewel was claimed by The Board of Government, who took possession of it pending its presentation to Queen Victoria. The presentation took place on 3 July 1850. Since then the jewel has remained in Britain and is now mounted in the State Crown of Queen Elizabeth, the Queen Mother.

Tuesday, February 27, 2007

Thai Jewelry Market

(via The Nation) Petchanet Pratruangkrai writes:

Growth in the Thai jewelry market this year is likely to drop by half from the original target, because of the world's economic slow-down and the recent appreciation of the baht, say jewelry exporters.

More info @ http://www.nationmultimedia.com/2007/02/27/business/business_30027970.php

Cedar Wood Oil

Nearly all emeralds are treated with a liquid or resin after cutting. The traditional way to enhance emeralds gemstonality has been to treat them with near colorless natural cedar wood oil. The refractive index of cedar wood oil is in the range of 1.495-1.510. The purpose of the treatment is to reduce the visibility of inclusions in emeralds in order to improve the appearance. If in doubt consult a reputed gem testing laboratory.

Casino Movie

Memorable quote (s) from the movie:

Ace Rothstein (Robert De Niro): The town will never be the same. After the Tangiers, the big corporations took it all over. Today it looks like Disneyland. And while the kids play cardboard pirates, Mommy and Daddy drop the house payments and Junior's college money on the poker slots. In the old days, dealers knew your name, what you drank, what you played. Today, it's like checkin' into an airport. And if you order room service, you're lucky if you get it by Thursday. Today, it's all gone. You get a whale show up with four million in a suitcase, and some twenty-five-year-old hotel school kid is gonna want his Social Security Number. After the Teamsters got knocked out of the box, the corporations tore down practically every one of the old casinos. And where did the money come from to rebuild the pyramids? Junk bonds. But in the end, I wound up right back where I started. I could still pick winners, and I could still make money for all kinds of people back home. And why mess up a good thing?

Bangkok Gems and Jewelry Fair

TGJTA writes:

The 39th Bangkok Gems and Jewelry Fair takes place at IMPACT Challenger (the world’s largest column-free exhibition center) February 28, 2007 to March 4, 2007. Over 3,000 exhibitors will be at the event that will feature gems and jewelry from Thailand and around the world. The jewelry show comes in a range of styles, from traditional to contemporary and offers designs based on both precious and semi-precious gems.

The event has become a favorite amongst the world’s gem’s and jewelry professionals and emphasizes the precision skills of local craftsmen and women. As a world-class manufacturing center and a regional hub for diamond and colored gemstones cutting and trading, Thailand is a natural choice for this trade fair, which opens to the public March 3 and 4, 2007.

More info @ Thai Gem & Jewelry Traders Association
Jewelry Trade Center
52nd Fl, 919/616
Silom Road
Bangrak
Bangkok10500
Thailand
Tel: (66) 0-2630 - 1390
Fax: (66) 0-2630 - 1398 or 99
Website : www.bangkokgemsfair.com
Email : info@bangkokgemsfair.com

Venue Details:
Impact Arena
Exhibition And Convention Center
Muang Thong Thani
99 Popular Road
Banmai Subdistrict
Pakkred District
Nonthaburi 11120
Thailand
Tel: (66) 0-2504-5050
Fax: (66) 0-2504-4445
Website: www.impact.co.th
Email: info@impact.co.th

Gems & Precious Stones Of North America

By George Frederick Kunz
Dover Publications, Inc
1968 ISBN 0-486-21855-4

Edward Oslon (Curator of Mineralogy, Field Museum of Natural History, Chicago) writes:

When the early Spanish explorers first entered the North American continent it was the overwhelming desire for precious stones and metals that lured them on. DeSoto, for example, trekked over the entire southeastern quarter of what is now the United States, led on by rumors and tales of fabulous gems and golden cities. He perished having found only a small quantity of freshwater pearls for his trouble. He was not the only one to die unrewarded; the bones of Spanish gold and jewel seekers littered the continent from California to North Carolina, from Central America to northern Kansas. A goodly amount of gold and silver was acquired in Mexico and Central America, and a few gemstones turned up now and then, but it rapidly became apparent that North America was not going to be a fabulous source for precious stones. Today, with the advantage of 400 years of hindsight, the dogged crisscrossing of the continent by these treasure hunters seems foolish to say the least. North America has been no Golconda.

Despite the fact that North America has produced only a handful of gemstones, in contrast to Africa, India, Ceylon, South America and parts of Europe and Asia Minor, which have all been rich sources, the old fever to find diamonds, rubies, emeralds and other stones has never fully abated. Every year Arkansas draws hundreds of diamond seekers; Wyoming attracts ruby and jade hunters; Minnesota and Iowa have their agate hunters; Maine and North Carolina their aquamarine prospectors, and so on.

Until 1890 occurrences of gemstones in North America were matters principally of local knowledge shared only a few avid collectors and specialists in the gem business. Then, in that year, George Frederick Kunz published the first edition of this book, Gems and Precious Stones of North America. It represented years of intimate experience with the gem industry in America as the mineralogical consultant to the largest and most important gem and jewelry house in the United States, Tiffany and Company of New York City. The book is something of a milestone, for it was the first to describe the locations of any and all gem occurrences on the North American continent. As such it is not a textbook or treatise on gemology but primarily a guide to the collector of precious and semi-precious stones; it tells where they occur and something of their history, archaeology and lore. It was, at that time, a unique treatment, but less than six years later a learned German mineralogist, Professor Max Bauer of the University of Marburg, published a major book, Edelsteinkunde (Precious Stones), which treated worldwide occurrences of gems in the manner Kunz had used for North America.

Since gemstones are fundamentally rock-forming minerals, they fall under the wing of the professional mineralogist, who unfortunately is primarily concerned with them as minerals, and too often in an abstruse and academic way that does not interest the gem fancier. This book, on the other hand, was written by a mineralogist whose professional concern was gem minerals only. Such specialists are not common. In fact, as a professional mineralogist on the staff of a company such as Tiffany, Dr Kunz was something of a rare bird. His predilection for minerals as gems is evident in this book.

Primarily the book serves as a source book for information on gem occurrences, and contains a wealth of specific facts about the quality, size and quantity of the rough gem material found in any particular place. For example, within three pages (140-142), twelve localities for ornamental petrified wood are discussed in detail.

Most gem localities in North America are, unfortunately, a one-time thing; one or a few stones of good quality are found, and that’s it. This continent has never had a major gem mining operation even remotely comparable to the Kimberly diamond district in Africa or the emerald mines at Muzo, Colombia. As Kunz himself pointed out (p.7) “The daily yield from the coal and iron mines would exceed in value all the precious stones found in the United States during a year.” Nevertheless, some districts have been fairly consistent producers of gem material, albeit not in large quantities. For these areas the book indicates production figures and the annual value of particular gem materials.

As one reads this book one becomes aware that its author was captivated by the legend, lore and superstition associated with precious stones. The story of Aztec turquoise (pp.62-64) and the history of New World pearls from Colombus’ first contact with them onward (pp.240 ff) are examples of the historical and archaeological vignettes interspersed in the text. The whole subject so fascinated Kunz that in later years he published three full length books that dealt primarily with folklore and superstition connected with gems: The Curious Lore of Precious Stones (1913), The Magic of Jewels and Charms (1915), and Rings for the Finger (1917).

Perhaps the most unique feature of the book is the intriguing description of pearls in the New World (Chapter XII). This section is a kind of book within the book, and certainly represents the most detailed compilation of information and history of the American pearl fishing industry up to that time. This particular topic deeply interested Kunz and in 1904 he and Charles H Stevenson published The Book of the Pearl. This was a definitive work on the subject, based on Kunz’s intimate knowledge both of pearls as mineralogical objects and the pearl fishing industry; from 1892 to 1899 he served as special commissioner on American pearls for the United States Fish Commissioner.

Besides the books already mentioned, Kunz published widely on a great variety of mineralogical and gemological matters, and even made occasional contributions to the subject of meteorites. He was a prodigious writer. In an active career of almost sixty years he wrote a total of 531 articles, papers, reports, books, etc. This averages out to between nine and ten publications per year. This tremendous output of written material was very probably the result of the same strong self-motivation that made Kunz the self-made man that he was.

George Kunz was born in New York City in 1856. After a public school education he attended the famous Cooper Union, but he never received a formal degree. It was at Cooper Union that he began to plan for a professional career. He once wrote about “the Cooper Union, in whose laboratories, lecture rooms and library (I spent) useful, profitable evening hours for several hours, at a time when there were no opportunities of a similar nature in the City of New York.”

Before Kunz went to high school he had begun collecting minerals in the New York-New Jersey area around the city. The (then) recent excavations in the Bergen Hill, New Jersey, are—the site of a large number of rare and attractive minerals—provided him with a fairly sophisticated collection, and by the time he was fourteen years old he had already begun an active series of exchanges with collectors both in the United States and abroad. These exchanges allowed him to put together a number of well-rounded mineral collections and before he was twenty years old he had sold a major collection to the University of Minnesota. In the following years he established his reputation a knowledgeable mineralogist by building and selling mineral collections to a number of institutions, colleges and individuals, including Amherst College, the New York State Museum in Albany, the Field Museum in Chicago, and Thomas A Edison. His reputation grew accordingly and he was only twenty four years old when he joined Tiffany and Company as their gem expert. By the time he had been with the company for twenty years he had visited most of the gem producing localities in the United States, Mexico, Russia, Asia and Australia. One result of these travels was the formation of two major gem collections which were purchased by the famous J P Morgan in New York City. Kunz became, in a sense, a modern-day Tavernier, searching the world of gems. It was largely through his efforts that Tiffany acquired the now famous 128.51 carat Tiffany diamond, which the company still owns today.

Over the years his fame as a gem expert spread and in 1898 he received a honorary M A degree from Colombia University. This was followed by an honorary Ph.D from the University of Marburg, Germany, in 1906, and honorary D.SC from Knox University in 1907. He also received decorations from several foreign governments: the Legion of Honor (France), the Order of St.Olaf (Norway), and the Order of the Rising Sun (Japan). In addition, he held various offices in numerous professional societies and was, for fourteen years, an honorary curator of gems at the American Museum of Natural History. Although Dr Kunz was offered the directorship of the U S National Museum in 1904, he declined the honor and remained with Tiffany and Company throughout his career. He died in 1932.

Gems and Precious Stones of North American went through two editions. The present volume is a reprint of the second edition (1892), which differed from the first in that it included an appendix which Kunz wrote to cover occurrences of North American gems not covered in the text of 1890. By the very nature of this book age cannot detract from its utility. The locations of precious stones which are described cannot have changed over the seventy five years since the book was originally published. In fact, the only major annotation one might make today is to note that Kunz defines the unit of weight used in the gem industry, the carat, as equal to 205 milligrams (pp.13-14), and that over the intervening years this has been redefined to be 200 milligrams exactly. Thus, when carat weights are mentioned in the text they should be adjusted slightly upward, by a factor of 1.025.

Most of the readers of this book will undoubtedly be gem and mineral collectors, lapidary hobbyists, and rock hounds seeking to ferret out old gem occurrences for future collecting trips. On the other hand, there will be those readers relatively uninitiated in the field of gems and minerals who will pick up this book with the thought of finding out something about gems and their history on this continent. The book will serve both groups of readers equally well, for although it was written primarily to document the numerous scattered and unrecorded gemstone occurrences on the North American continent, it stands also as the first and foremost history of the gem mining industry in America.

Monday, February 26, 2007

Laughlin

Lapidary Journal writes:

If you are looking for a gem, mineral, and jewelry show with all the amenities of a big city venue but with the low costs and laid back atmosphere of a smaller show, it’s hard to beat Laughlin, Nevada, a fast growing casino town 90 miles southeast of Las Vegas. Laughlin is a relative newcomer to the gem show circuit, but has already gained a reputation as one of the better spots to be.

All shows at Laughlin are wholesale/retail with free admission to the public. And with the exception of a show put on by the Gem & Lapidary Wholesalers, all the Clouds Jamboree events, sponsored by former Quartzsite show promoter Dick Cloud.

The main event is month-long show held outside the Avi Resort & Casino from January 7 through February 8. The other five shows are held indoors at the various hotels along Casino Drive, from January 14 through 30.

“When you go to Laughlin, you are not competing with a swap meet mentality. You are going to buy gems, minerals, and related supplies—things that have to do with the business,’ says Warron Big Eagle of Eagles Dream Co. Together with his wife Deb, Big Eagle displays gem rough and beads, as well as finished gems and silver jewelry at the Avi Resort at a booth set up outside their trailer.

“The Avi has one of the nicest, cleanest RV setups in the country,” says Big Eagle, a self-described ‘rocker’ who spends most of his time on the road. But he notes that those coming to visit the shows also have the opportunity to stay at one of the many hotels and resorts in town, with discounted rates for those attending the shows as members of the trade.

Many of the dealers who display at Laughlin—particularly at shows which end before February—go on to Tucson. “Laughlin is not a hurried show like Tucson. It’s more of a low-key, relaxed, spread-out affair,’ says dealer Ron Stanford of Precious Pebbles in Bullhead City, Arizona, just across the Colorado River from Laughlin.

“It’s also a lot cheaper for dealers to do, so you get a lot of the smaller dealers who have a wide variety of goods. You may not find a lot of the high-end merchandise that you would in Tucson, but you will find a lot of bargains on just about anything you can think of, from used lapidary equipment to beads, gemstones, finished jewelry, and gem rough. You will find a lot of rough rock there.”

Because so much of Laughlin’s economy centers on tourism, it seems that everything is done to accommodate show goers, including a shuttle service which takes visitors from one show to the next. With Vegas-like weather, a nearby airport, as well as gold courses, restaurants, and lively entertainment, it’s safe bet that Laughlin will continue to expand as a show venue.

“It just a real nice place,” says Big Eagle. “Because the Avi show goes on for so long, the vendors all get to know each other, and we will steer people in the right direction to find what they are looking for. They seem to work together rather than be overly competitive with one another, and they are trying to build the show.”

For more information, visit www.cloudsjamboree.com or call (866) 558-7719

Laughlin show schedule:
- Clouds Jamboree—Edgewater Hotel & Casino (January 14 – 23)
- Clouds Jamboree—Ramada Express Hotel & Casino (January 14 – 23)
- Clouds Jamboree—Don Laughlin’s Riverside Resort Hotel & Casino (January 14 – 30)
- G & LW—Flamingo Laughlin (January 21 – 23)
- Clouds Jamboree—AVI Casino (January 27 – February 6)

Special Effects

I love movies, because the concept enable the characters to simulate their natural talent with good acting and special effects. The reality is that in the movies a sound mixer combines all three elements of the film’s soundtrack: the dialogue, music and sound effects to create the voice of the film. In a way movies and colored gemstones are on the same wavelength. They are sensitive, attractive, and provides constant emotional stimulation--a lightswitch. A gem cutter combines size, shape, color, clarity and cut to create the voice of a colored gemstone. I would say 34% color, 33% clarity, and 33% cut—it’s life.

Citizen Kane

Memorable quote (s) from the movie:

Charles Foster Kane (Orson Welles): You know, Mr. Bernstein, if I hadn't been very rich, I might have been a really great man.

Thatcher (George Coulouris): Don't you think you are?

Charles Foster Kane (Orson Welles): I think I did pretty well under the circumstances.

Thatcher (George Coulouris): What would you like to have been?

Charles Foster Kane (Orson Welles): Everything you hate.

The Jade Kingdom

By Paul E Desautels
Van Nostrand Reinhold Company Inc
1986 ISBN 0-442-21797-8

Van Nostrand Reinhold writes:

For more than 4000 years, jade has been a stone of legend and mystery, prized for its beauty and superiority as a hardstone carving material. The development of mineralogical and gemological knowledge of jade has been as fascinating as jade lore and history. Yet, until now, no book on jade has explored jade’s physical and chemical properties as well as the stone’s rich history. Instead, past literature has tended toward quick surveys of some of the more exotic carvings that have flowed, generation after generation, from the lapidary shops of China.

The Jade Kingdom is the first book to cover almost every aspect of jade—its occurrences worldwide, its mineralogy and geology, jade’s history, legend, and lore, the major cultures that have made use of it, and the techniques they have developed to master it. Specific areas covered include comparisons of true and false jades, the various methods of testing jade, from simple field tests to sophisticated laboratory analyses, and the known sources of jade, both ancient and modern.

The book also explores China’s centuries—old love of jade, discussing the origins and meanings of symbolic jade carvings as well as the clues to past Chinese culture, philosophy, and technology that are revealed by existing jade objects. The history of jade in the New World is surveyed as well, from the earliest Olmec times to the conquest of the Aztecs by Spanish adventurers. Other jade-using cultures covered in The Jade Kingdom include Europe, New Zealand, South-central Asia, India, Russia, and Japan. Dozens of photographs of nephrite and jadeite—the two main types of jade—as well as ancient and modern artifacts complete this handsome reference work.

Gemologists, collectors, anthropologists, archeologists, and jade dealers will welcome this first-time synthesis of new and old information about jade.

About the author
Paul E Desautels is the author of four other books—The Mineral Kingdom, The Gem Kingdom, Rocks and Minerals, and Gems in the Smithsonian—and has contributed many articles to such magazines as the Smithsonian, Mineralogical Record, Natural History, and American Mineralogist.

Sunday, February 25, 2007

Gem Show Tips

If you are planning to attend any gem shows for the first time, here are some things to keep in mind.

- Book in advance
Pre-registering for the shows you want to attend will help you avoid lines. The same applies to book accommodation in advance.

- Set a budget
If you hope to stay within your means, you need to establish a budget for the real stuff as well as for the fun stuff.

- Take notes
We are distracted all the time and worse—we have short memory so take notes. If you see an interesting piece and are thinking of coming back to see it, write down the location you saw it. Otherwise, chances are you will either forget about it or, more likely, forget where you saw it.

- Be comfortable
Dress comfortably. Don’t even think about doing the shows in high heels or clothes that don’t breathe. Drink plenty of water to stay refreshed and to avoid dehydration.

- Talk to people
People are always eager to learn about new things. So when you need help, ask in a sweet language. They will always remember you. Gem shows are unique cultural experiences. Asking others what they have seen and which shows they have visited is a good way to start a conversation. The password is— have the right attitude.

Coated Diamonds

The first step in examining any diamond is to observe the whole diamond. Well-informed consumers start with visual observation. This gives the buyer the chance to examine and classify all aspects of the physical appearance of the diamond.

Natural colored diamonds are available in all mainstream colors, but certain colors are rare. Top quality pinks, reds, blues and other shades are extremely rare and expensive. Many colored diamonds are sold by dealers and jewelers to consumers who crave for rarity, beauty and status. Consumers with disposable income buy them because they like it. A few may be aware of treatments, but they tend to forget it. Many consumers don’t know about it.

Today diamonds can be coated with yellow, orange, pink, purplish pink, blue and green to look like the natural ones. Well-trained buyers look for iridescent film-like coating with proper magnification and lighting. But again this may not be always easy and practical. The treatment is not permanent. If in doubt always consult a reputed gem testing laboratory.

Catch Me If You Can Movie

Memorable quote (s) from the movie:

Frank Abagnale Sr. (Christopher Walken): Two little mice fell in a bucket of cream. The first mouse quickly gave up and drowned. The second mouse, wouldn't quit. He struggled so hard that eventually he churned that cream into butter and crawled out. Gentlemen, as of this moment, I am that second mouse.

The Physics And Chemistry Of Color

By Kurt Nassau
John Wiley & Sons, Inc
1983 ISBN 0-471-86776-4

John Wiley & Sons writes:

How does an organic pigment such as chlorophyll interact with white light to produce a green color? Why is the sky blue, a ruby red? To what processes does gold owes its yellow color? Here is the first comprehensive investigation of all the causes of color derived from their physical and chemical origins. Requiring no specialized knowledge since all fundamental concepts are discussed, this fascinating work explores fifteen separate causes of color and their varied and often subtle occurrences in biology, geology, mineralogy, the atmosphere, technology, and the visual arts.

Beginning with a basic introduction to the nature of light and color and quantum theory in Part 1, the book goes on to discuss the colors caused by incandescent objects, flames, and vapor excitation light sources, including auroras and lasers (Part 2). Part 3 explores the effect on electronic energy levels of transition elements in the ligand field, a phenomenon that explains the colors in most inorganic paint pigments and in many minerals and gems, such as red ruby and green emerald.

Colors caused by molecular orbitals and their interaction with light are discussed in Part 4. These include the colors of most organic substances and such minerals and gemstones as lapis lazuli and blue sapphire, where charge transfer is at work. Part 5 examines the colors caused by energy band theory, such as those in gold, copper, and brass, as well as color centers, as in amethysts. Part 6 investigates the wide range of colors involving geometrical and physical optics theory—including those derived from dispersion, scattering, interference and diffraction. This leads to the colors of the rainbow and of butterfly wings, the blue of the sky, the red of the sunset. A final section discusses a variety of color-related topics, such as lasers, art preservation, and vision.

Over 200 drawings, 30 tables, and 31 color photographs aid in the visualization of the concepts discussed. A detailed bibliography keyed to individual chapters permits readers to pursue areas of particular interest. Also included are end-of-chapter problems and a series of appendices which cover advanced topics and thus serve as a bridge to more esoteric texts and monographs.

The Physics And Chemistry of Color will prove equally useful to specialist and non-specialist alike, and to those with interests as varied as optics and art history.

About the author
Kurt Nassau is the author of Gems Made By Man.

Saturday, February 24, 2007

Minerals On Postage Stamps

(via Mineral Digest Vol. 1, 1972) Franklin R Bruns, Jr writes:

In the fall of 1594 the Spanish galleon San Pedro, en route home with treasure from the New World, was wrecked on the north Bermuda reefs, and went down to the bottom. There it lay for more than three hundred years, until Teddy Tucker, a Bermudian diver, salvaged much of the treasure, including jewels, gold and artifacts. Valued at more than US $560000, the treasure was sold to the Bermuda government in 1961. Part of it is now on display at the Museum of Natural History in Flatts Village.

The finest single item from Tucker’s salvage is an emerald-studded gold cross that is three inches long, with a 11/4 inch traverse bar set with seven Colombian emeralds, the cross alone is valued at US$75000. One Dutch jewelry expert said it might take ten years to match at set of perfect emeralds like these, if indeed they could be matched at all. Colombian emeralds are, of course, at their best, second to none. It is believed that the jeweled cross was made by South American Indians, probably under the supervision of a Spanish jewelsmith.

In 1969, Bermuda issued a set of four colorful stamps portraying the emerald-studded cross from the San Pedro. Each stamp bore the identifying legend. “1594 Treasure from the sea.” The four postal items were in denominations of 4d, 1s/3d, 2s, and 2s/6d.

Since the cross was recovered from the sea, it seemed rather fitting that artist V Whiteley should have used a sea fan background for two of the stamps and coral reefs on the others. Of course, Bermuda was not the only country to feature emeralds on its postal issues. A Colombian airmail stamp of 1932-39 showed a large emerald on two high values. In the same period Colombia released a regular postage set with an emerald mine, a platinum mine, gold mining scene, and a scene of oil wells.

However, with thousands of new postage stamps released each year, it is rather surprising that so few designs relate to, or picture, minerals. Plainly, this area has not been exploited philatelically, as have flowers, birds and fishes.

With the technological advances in stamp printing, and the increasing output of brilliantly colored issues by many nations, it should not be long before a number of well awaken and stress the breadth of their mineral resources on their postage stamps. The United States, for example, has not issued a single stamp with a mineral design, or even a mineral theme, unless one considers the commemoration of the first American oil well as celebrating a national mineral asset.

A few years ago, there was a move to persuade the post office to issue mineral stamp to mark the presence of a mineralogy convention in Washington D.C. The design was to feature a brooch that was mounted with gems from each of the states. Unfortunately the move was unsuccessful, although the brooch was made and was presented to Lady Bird Johnson, later to be turned over to the Smithsonian Institution.

Perhaps the closest the United States has come to include any mineral or gem on a stamp is the instance of the $1.00 value stamp in the 1893 Columbian Exposition series which shows Queen Isabella pledging her jewels. Items of jewelry may also be seen in the illustrations on other stamps in this series: Columbus Soliciting Columbus Describing his Third Voyage.

In 1898, the United States also showed a Western Mining Prospector; the “Golden Spike Ceremony” marking the completion of the trans-continental railroad systems; the discovery of gold at Sutter’s Mill; a gold miner; and one for silver.

Now that Postmaster General Winton M Blount has approved a revival of the conservation stamp program, perhaps there may, one day, be stamps that depict our rich mineral resources. The conservation stamp program, initiated under former Postmaster General Arthur E Summerfield, employed pictures of wildlife, soil, forest, water and range conservation.

Stressing the importance of water conservation, France and Andorra, incidentally, recently released single stamps with a droplet that is a diamond to indicate the preciousness of water. Although Canada has immense mineral wealth, she, too has been remiss here in the field of philatelics. One Canadian stamp shows a miner with pneumatic drill and another miner panning gold. But there have been no Canadian stamps to call attention to the incredible variety of her minerals, not even her asbestos or uranium sources.

Of course, Canada, with its British heritage and association, has often shown jewel bedecked royalty and the great crowns of Britain frequently have appeared on her stamps. Indeed, there have been crowns aplenty on postage stamps. For Canada alone, one can cite the ‘young and old Victoria’ jubilee design of 1897; the Princess and Prince of Wales, later King George V and Queen Mary; Queen Alexandra and King Edward VII; King George V and Queen Elizabeth; and Queen Elizabeth II.

The British crowns naturally appear on postal issues of the United Kingdom and the countries within the Commonwealth. However, other bejeweled items in the state regalia, including those that hundreds of thousands have seen and marveled over at the exhibit in the Tower of London, have not been featured on British issues. Bejeweled crowns have, of course, been utilized widely in stamp designs of other lands. Two instances are Czechoslovakia’s altarpiece with the 14th century crown of St. Wenceslas, and far for Iran the coronation attire of Queen Farak of Persia. The great crowns worn by royalty have been adorned with fabulous gems from various parts of the world. Since these were generally mined before they were cut and polished, it is fitting that the part played by mining should be recognized. The collector of minerals on postage stamps may therefore include mining, and also metallurgy. Victor J Van Lint of the American Topical Association, specialist in mining on postage stamps provided the data for the following:

Surface mining, as depicted by a miner panning gold, for example, on a Canadian stamp is the first step in the many processes concerned with the wrestling of wealth from the earth. Next comes placering. Here water supplies are required, since, gold, platinum or precious stones, are caught behind riffles in a sluice box while a swift current of water carries off the dirt, clay, and gravel. Such a sluice is shown on a British Guiana (now Guyana) stamp. Dredge mining is shown on a Malaya stamp.

Underground mining may be pursued via three methods: by tunnels, inclined shafts, and vertical shafts. An example of a tunnel mine is on a Bolivian stamp, while a Chilean stamp shows an inclined shaft. A vertical shaft appears on a Czechoslovakian stamp.

Other postage stamps illustrate equipment used in mining. On stamps from Austria, Germany, the Saar, and Russia are shown headframes over mines, lamps used by miners, loaders, and, of course, miners with hammer, chisel and pickaxe, as well as the more modern pneumatic airpick. The Federal Republic of Germany recently issued a quartet of stamps that covered the mining operation graphically: a young miner and lamp, a miner with drill, a miner and conveyor, and a miner and coal elevator.

Romania has issued stamps showing a miner in dress uniform and also in work uniform. In 1949, Czechoslovakia marked the 700th anniversary of its mining industry, and the 150th anniversary of its miner’s laws by featuring early miners, a contemporary miner, and a mining machine. In 1952, it marked Miner’s Day—Sept. 14—with a 17th century mining tower.

While fairly comprehensive collections can be formed on mines and mining, the same cannot be said of gems and minerals. Happily for the mineral collector who is not particularly interested in postage stamps except as they feature minerals, there are a number of postal issues that present attractive minerals in crystals or groups. Here Switzerland has been the leader, natural in a sense because the Swiss have always valued the fine specimens found in their Alps. Over a four year period, from 1958 to 1961, this country issued numerous semi-postal stamps, showing fine minerals. (Semi-postal stamps have two values, one for the postage; the other to indicate the amount set aside for some worthy cause, in this instance, to benefit needy mothers.)

The first Swiss minerals set, released in 1958, displayed Fluorite, Garnet and Rock Crystal. The set also included Ammonite. Ammonite, of course, is a fossil, but it is not unusual for fossils to be included in postal issues devoted to minerals, not because so many mineral collectors also acquire fossils but because fossils, too, are found in the earth.

In 1959, Switzerland’s second set showed Agate, Tourmaline, Amethyst and Fossilized Salamander. In 1960, the subjects were Smoky Quartz, Feldspar, Gryphaea Fossil and Azurite. In 1961, to close the Swiss mineral program, came Fluorite, Petrified fish, Lazulite and Petrified fern. Also in 1961, Southwest Africa showed Tourmaline and Topaz. And, in 1963, Mexico, which has vast mineral resources, pictured Crystals.

In a set marking the bicentennial of the famous Mining Academy in Freiburg, the German Democratic Republic included stamps showing splendid Proustite crystals and Sulphur crystals. Other values showed an old furnace and ancient miners, both illustrations based on early woodcuts. More minerals appeared on a fine set of six stamps issued by the German Democratic Republic in mid-1969. The subjects were: Fluorite from Halsbrucke, Erythrite from Schneeberg, Galena from Neudorf, Smoky Quartz from Lichtenberg, Calcite from Niederrabenstein and Silver from Freiburg.

The most striking of the Russian issues relating to mineralogy appeared in 1963. Naturally, they emphasized the precious stones from the mineral-rich Ural mountains. Shown were Topaz, Jasper, Amethyst, Emerald, Rhodonite, and Malachite. In 1968, the USSR offered a 6 kopek stamp with a Crystal and the emblem of the 8th Congress for Mineral Research.

In 1969, Hungary issued a fine series featuring both fossils and minerals. Four portrayed, individually, native Copper coated with Malachite, Cuprite, a group displaying Calcite and Sphalerite with the uncommon Greenockite, and a fine Quartz crystal group. South Rhodesia pictured emeralds in 1964, but a large number of postage stamps have featured the Diamond. Sierra Leone, especially, has emphasized its role as the Land of Iron & Diamonds. Incidentally, this West African country utilizes printed and embossed self-adhesive stamps that are cut in various shapes, and are attached to peelable paper backing which may carry different advertisements.

A faceted pear-shaped Diamond was chosen for the design when Sierra Leone marked the 75th anniversary of its Bay Scout movement with a special postage stamp. This self-adhesive commemorative was released December 3, 1969. Late in 1965 Sierra Leone released three airmail stamps in unique form. The self-adhesive stamp was cut in the shape of a faceted Diamond, with a reverse-embossed design of an elaborate Diamond necklace. The name of the famous American jeweler Harry Winston was on either side of the bottom apex of the Diamond.

Other self-adhesive issues from the Land of Iron & Diamond appeared in 1964, 1965, 1966 and 1967. These had the shapes of a map of Sierra Leone, a cola nut, an eagle and a round coin. In 1961, when statehood was attained, one of the first traditional Sierra Leone stamps showed a Diamond miner. In 1961, Tanganyika featured a Rose Diamond and a mine. In 1966, Central African Republic depicted a Diamond grade. Other stamps showing Diamonds were issued by Southwest Africa in 1961-62, and South Africa in 1965.

Twice Belgium featured Diamonds. A handicrafts issue included a Diamond in 1960. In 1965, a commemorative stamp featured a woman’s hand with a large round Diamond on one finger and a huge pear-shaped Diamond held between two fingers. The latter was issued to publicize Diamontexpo, a Diamond exposition held in Antwerp July 10-28, 1965. In 1954, France linked jewelry with goldsmith’s work on a stamp. In 1966, Dahomey featured jewelry, as Czechoslovakia had done in 1956 and 1965. The first of the Czech stamps marked that country’s second 5-year plan, the other publicized a costume jewelry exhibit at Jablonec.

Israel has not emphasized minerals on its stamps, but in 1968 it did issue one high value airmail stamp with a large faceted diamond to celebrate its important export trade in cut stones. The same set also included postage stamps as a major Israeli export. Earlier postal issues in Israel showed ancient glass vessels from the 1st to 3rd centuries A.D., a bronze panther of the 1st century B.C., a gold calf’s head earring of Ashdod from the 6th to 4th centuries B.C., and a gold ram’s head drinking horn of Persia from the 5th century B.C. Such archaeological treasures are becoming more common in philatelics. The collector of minerals on postage stamps may include them, if he chooses, as examples of ancient metals.

Russia, too, depicted its ancient treasures on postage stamps. In 1964, one issue showing items from the Kremlin Museum included a helmet, a saddle, a jeweled fur crown, a gold ladle, and a bowl. Two years later, the USSR presented treasures from the Hermitage Museum in Leningrad; a 6th century B.C golden stag from Scythia, a Persian silver jug, and a Malachite vase from the Urals.

The above indicates how far governments have gone in celebrating their minerals and mineral wealth on their postage stamps. Collectors who limit themselves to the mineral area have only the Geology Unit of the American Topical Association to guide them. This Geology Unit has been dubbed Geolately or Geo-Philately. Whatever it may be called, it covers minerals, waterfalls, volcanoes and the oil industry.

So, minerals available on postage stamps are relatively few. However, the increased worldwide interest in minerals will undoubtedly influence many governments, including perhaps our own, to pay more attention to the design possibilities for their postal issues.

Ray Movie

Memorable quote (s) from the movie:

Ray Charles (Jamie Foxx): Who is it?

Ahmet Ertegun (Curtis Armstrong): Mr. Charles, my name is Ahmet Ertegun. May I have a moment of your time?

Ray Charles (Jamie Foxx): What do you want? I'm at church.

Ahmet Ertegun (Curtis Armstrong): I'm sorry. I'll come back later.

Ray Charles (Jamie Foxx): You're here now, what do you want?

Ahmet Ertegun (Curtis Armstrong): Mr. Charles, my company, Atlantic Records, has just acquired your contract from Swingtime. I'd like to discuss your future.

Ray Charles (Jamie Foxx): Hold on, man. Don't jive me now. I ain't for sale.

Ahmet Ertegun (Curtis Armstrong): May I sit down? You see, Mr. Charles, it seems that Jack Lauderdale has found himself, shall we say, a little over extended and has had to unload some of his talent. When your name came up I jumped at the chance to work with you. I'm a big fan.

Ray Charles (Jamie Foxx): What if I want to go to another company? There's a guy out there right now that'll pay me seven cents a record. Can you do that?

Ahmet Ertegun (Curtis Armstrong): Man, I could promise you fifteen cents a record but you won't get it. Anymore than he'll pay you seven. What I will do is promise you five cents a record and pay you five cents a record. You think pennies, Mr. Charles, you get pennies. You think dollars, you get dollars.

Ray Charles (Jamie Foxx): I like the way you put things together. Omlet, you're alright with me.

Ahmet Ertegun (Curtis Armstrong): Ahmet.

Ray Charles (Jamie Foxx): Ahmet. What kind of a name is that anyway.

Ahmet Ertegun (Curtis Armstrong): I'm Turkish.

Ray Charles (Jamie Foxx): Well, Ahmet, it looks like Jack Lauderdale's bad luck is my good fortune. I always knew Atlantic was bigger than Swingtime. You do great work there. I dig Atlantic.

Ahmet Ertegun (Curtis Armstrong): You could have fooled me.

Ray Charles (Jamie Foxx): Well, I gotta keep my eye on you city boys. Back home they call it country dumb.

Pearl Diver’s Luck

By Clarence Benham
W W Norton & Company Inc
1950

Clarence Benham writes:

This is a story of pearl diving, as experienced by me, during a brief period of my life, in the waters of Torres Straits, the Great Barrier Reef, and the Solomon Islands. It depicts the nature of the work, the rough conditions, rude men, and some of the dangers that may be met.

The principal pearl fisheries of the world are those of the Persian Gulf and Ceylon (Sri Lanka); the Gulf of California, once fished by the Aztecs; the Paumotus; and Australia. The greatest pearl production is that of Ceylon (Sri Lanka), but the shell is the most valuable, and the largest of all pearlshell, one kind (Pinctada maxima) growing to a diameter of twelve inches and a weight of seven pounds.

Captain Banner, in the brig Julia Percy, is reputed to be the first to bring the news of the Torres Strait pearl beds to Sydney some time in the sixties of the nineteenth century. For a long time all the vessels out and sailed from that town, simply because there was no other suitable place nearer at hand.

All of the divers were swimmers in those days, the dress not being introduced until 1874. The divers and crews were brought from various South Sea Islands, and from the northern parts of the continent. Very often the natives were shanghaied. In any case they were paid only a few shillings worth of trashy trade goods a month, and were forced to work willy-nilly. In 1872 an Imperial Act was passed for the protection of the natives and in order to show that the government meant business, several vessels were seized and forfeited. Thursday Island was selected as the seat of authority and settled in 1878, but the conditions generally continued to be very tough for a long time afterwards.

When the dress was introduced many white divers, and sometimes white crews, were employed. Shell brought up to 400 pounds a ton in Sydney, and white divers commonly earned 500 pounds a year. Gradually, as more shell came on the market, and the price dropped accordingly, the earnings of the white divers decreased so that they were no longer attracted to the life. At the time when I was there, some forty years ago, no more than half a dozen remained.

Thursday Island s about thirty miles nor’-west of Cape York, the most northerly point of the great continent of Australia, and is the one of the many other islands in Torres Straits. With the exception of the soldiers in the Fort, and a few gold miners on neighboring islands, the resident population depend upon those engaged in fishing, of one kind or another, in the same way as people in a goldfields town live on the earnings of the miners and the production of the mines.

It will be incomprehensible to many people that any normal young man should voluntarily submit himself to the privation and discomfort, apart from the dangers, experienced by the writer and described in this book. On the other hand, it is difficult for others to comprehend how any healthy young fellow can put up with a pampered, petted life in town, meeting the same people, and doing the same things day after day for the whole of his life.

Today, as throughout the history of mankind, and as I hope it ever will be, young fellows seek the untrodden wilds, or the unusual. It is not easy not to do something that no other has done, but the spirit of adventure beckons and heedlessly we plunge into something that has excited our imagination. When whalers call at Hobart they have no difficulty in signing on additional hands for a voyage to the bitter Antarctic. There will always be volunteers to go anywhere and do anything, no matter how perilous and rough the task may be. If they were called, thousands would offer themselves for a journey to the moon, or into the space; in fact, they would proffer big sums of money for the privilege of being one of the lunatic crew.

Acknowledgment is hereby made to the Melbourne Herald, which has printed some parts of this story, and to Mr Simmonds, the Editor, for his kindly encouragement. All the characters in this book are now dead, or fictitious, or both, except me.

Friday, February 23, 2007

Bling'd: Blood, Diamonds and Hip Hop

"Bling'd: Blood, Diamonds and Hip Hop", is a new diamond documentary produced by Article 19 Films in co-production with Raquel Cepeda, director, for Djali Rancher Productions and in association with VH1 and UNDP.

The movie highlights the diamond trade in Sierra Leone, West Africa, and the poverty in the mining communities; the evolution of diamond-obsessed hip-hop community and their unintentional link in the country’s civil war.

More info @ http://www.vh1.com

Inexperienced Gem Dealers In Gem Markets

New findings suggest that gem dealers if they are young and inexperienced can be fooled and laminated. Younger generations are always lured in because the perception is gemstones always bring in money. They are overconfident with little or no product knowledge, tech savvy with low attention span, laidback with less patience and perseverance; ignorant, fearful, absentminded, greedy and more likely tend to be deficient in CS (commonsense). The younger gem dealers deviate from established concepts by luring in the inexperienced consumers and general public creating more bubbles. Trust and values are replaced with bluff and deceit. With time underperformance gets worse. The gem market is never compassionate. Gem dealers come and go, but gemstones live on. Somewhat surprisingly the older gem dealers know how to avoid the gas bubble trap. They have had more experience and lived through bad years. They keep a low profile and chose customers and friends selectively. They live a simple life. This tends to make them more cautious. Unfortunately the general public and consumers do not take time to look at history. They have short memory. Learning comes by doing. At the peak, the inexperienced consumers in gemstones end up stocking a significant portion of gemstones and may have the leverage to sway prices. The concept of gemstone business is a combined behavior of millions of people responding to information, disinformation and misinformation.

American Splendor Movie

Memorable quotes from the movie:

Harvey Pekar: My name is Harvey Pekar - that's an unusual name - Harvey Pekar. 1960 was the year I got my first apartment and my first phone book. Now imagine my surprise when I looked up my name and saw that in addition to me, another Harvey Pekar was listed. Now I was listed as "Harvey L. Pekar", my middle name is Lawrence, and he was listed as "Harvey Pekar" therefore his was a - was a pure listing. Then in the '70s, I noticed that a third Harvey Pekar was listed in the phone book, now this filled me with curiousity. How can there be three people with such an unusual name in the world, let alone in one city? Then one day, a person I work with, expressed her sympathy with me, concerning what she thought, was the death of my father, and she pointed out an obituary notice in the newspaper for a man named Harvey Pekar. And one of his sons was named Harvey. And these were the other Harvey Pekar's. And six months later, Harvey Pekar Jr. died. And although I've met neither man, I was filled with sadness, 'what were they like?', I thought, it seemed that our lives had been linked in some indefineable way. But the story does not end there, for two years later, another 'Harvey Pekar' appeared in the phone book. Who are these people? Where do they come from? What do they do? What's in a name? Who is "Harvey Pekar"?

Hug Your Customer Philosophy

Europa Star writes:

Jack Mitchell, CEO of Mitchells of Westport & Richards in Greenwich, California, USA, and author of best selling book “Hug Your Customer, The Proven Way to Personalize Sales and Achieve Astounding Results,” explains why customers are very important in any business.

The US$65 million third generational business is now run by his 7 sons and nephews. He explains, “We get to know each and every one of our customers individually, we know their birth dates, their anniversaries, and we let them know every chance we can, how much we appreciate them.”

He also explains how his sales associates, his tailors and his office staff go above and beyond what other retailers are doing. “They give out “hugs” both physical and emotional ones. It’s the little things from remembering a birthday to sending a personalized note of thanks from the CEO to sending an unexpected give like an orchid plant. By building personalized relationships, we have been able to expand our business,” added Mitchell.

“We know that we could not grow our business without the people who truly believe in our philosophy. We hire people who are honest and open, have positive attitudes, are competent and self confident, have passion and are genuinely nice people,” said Mitchell. “I know this sounds basic – but so many retailers don’t follow these rules.”

More info @ http://europastar.com/europastar/headlines/article_display.jsp?vnu_content_id=1003542135

Semi Precious Stones

(via Mineral Digest) Louis Zara writes:

Semi precious stones don’t exist. This is contrary to one of the jewelry industry’s most cherished myths. Nevertheless, it’s true: there are no semi-precious stones. Every gemstone, if it deserves the name at all, is either precious or it is not precious—as simple as that. Semi-precious is as meaningless as semi-attractive or semi-honest.

Consider the criteria applied to gemstones: value; hardness; scarcity; beauty. This order is such that what can he had easily is not valued highly. If diamonds were only fifty cents a carat, how many girls would want one for the engagement ring? If rubies were as plenty as raisins, would anyone care to wear them? I believe, no matter how hard or rare or valuable a gemstone may be, its beauty come first.

Today the diamond is accepted as the king because it is the hardest, and therefore the most durable, of gemstones. The jeweler likes diamonds because he can, or at least in sizes under five carats, always get more for his customers. Yet, except in larger sizes, diamonds are common. Beautiful rubies, even in smaller sizes, are harder to obtain, and emeralds without flaw are almost impossible to find. Diamond outranks them for hardness and brilliance, but, to many, rubies and emeralds are more beautiful.

If hardness is the only criterion, where should we rank opal, which has such flashing red, blue, and green fire that no lover of beauty can look at it without admiration? Each individual opal displays an exquisiteness of its own: Far easier to match diamonds than to match opals. Yet compared to diamond, ruby or sapphire, the opal is soft and must be worn with care. Are opals then to be dismissed as semi-precious?

What shall we say about jade, which in the imperial green quality is as fine as the elegant emerald and even scarcer, so that a great jade necklace must rank among the world’s splendid jewels? Jade cannot be compared to diamond, ruby or sapphire, but should it therefore be called semi-precious?

The average jeweler may resent these statements; his primary aim is to sell, and he can sell diamonds more readily than rubies, sapphires, opals or jade. Yet to those of us who are interested in educating the public, opals and jade, and the many other gems now blandly classed as semi-precious, deserve more intelligent appreciation, especially since their remarkable beauty delights the millions of new gem lovers.

Another example: red garnets have been plentiful since antiquity. Yet clear red garnets of appealing size are not common, the orange garnet hessonite is scarce in large sizes, and the rare green demantoid garnet, hardly known to the public, has an appeal that rivals the emerald. Fine demantoids or rhodolites, make truly impressive gemstones. Shall these, too, be labeled semi-precious?

No gem mineral displays a broader range of colors than the tourmaline. The greens have been relatively abundant. But large reds are scarce, and sapphire blues even scarcer, while the splendid watermelon tourmalines (greens and red together) are most unusual. Are such gems, too, semi-precious?

What about the alexandrite, that astonishing variety of chrysoberyl which is green in daylight and raspberry red by artificial light? It is harder than emerald. No gem is scarcer in sizes over four or five carats. Should the alexandrite, too, be put down as semi-precious?

What of aquamarine, which is a beryl and so is kin to the emerald? What of the amethyst, plentiful to be sure, but in truly lovely violet-purples and dark reds amazingly handsome?

What we seem to come down to is an economic criterion. If a gemstone is scarce, or an artificial demand has been created, that gemstone goes up in value, and is hailed as precious. If a gemstone is abundant, it is branded semi-precious.

Maybe that was acceptable when gems were chiefly status symbols. The rich dominated the market, and the rich must have only the precious. But in the last generation or so, with wider knowledge of Nature’s large family of gemstones becoming available, the emphasis has been less on status and more on beauty—and beauty is not restricted to the traditional Big Four: diamond, ruby, sapphire and emerald.

Today young people, whose horizons on gemstones have broadened, turn more and more to garnets, tourmalines, and topazes of all colors, to amethysts, and to many other gems little appreciated by their fathers. Try to sell this new generation of gem lovers that a rich blue lapis lazuli or a remarkable green jade or a delicate peach morganite is merely semi-precious!

The time has come for the diamond, ruby, sapphire and emerald to share the world precious with other stones. For in the world of gems, a stone is either precious or it is not precious. Semi-precious stones do not exist.

Gem Identification Made Easy

By Antoinette L Matlins & A C Bonanno
Gemstone Press
1994/1989 ISBN 0-943763-03-7

Gemstone Press writes:

Today, knowing your gems, being absolutely sure about what you are buying and selling, is essential. Major changes in the gem world—new synthetic stones, new treatments to enhance and conceal, new gems, and more stones available in every hue and tone of color—make accurate gem identification more important than ever to both buyers and sellers.

Whether you are the owner of a large retail jewelry chain or small family-run business, someone who enjoys collecting or acquiring gems for personal pleasure, or a serious investor, insufficient knowledge can be costly. It can result in a bad purchase, damage to a reputation, and, equally significant, failure to recognize an opportunity.

With minimal effort and a nominal investment in several instruments, almost anyone can venture into the world of gemology and begin to experience the thrill and fun of discovery—learning just what a particular stone really is. You can learn to separate real from imitation, one look-alike from another, dyed from natural, and so on. Sometimes just a basic knowledge of how to use a simple instrument is all that is needed to avoid an expensive mistake or recognize a profitable opportunity.

Contrary to what many people believe, it isn’t necessary to spend $100000 (or more) for elaborate gem testing equipment. For less than $200, one can begin with just three pocket instruments: the loupe, Chelsea filter, and dichroscope. Use together, these three simple, portable instruments can enable one to identify almost 85% of the colored gemstone materials encountered today as well as diamonds and most diamond look-alikes. Once you have mastered these three, you can add other instruments to help you identify the remaining gemstone material and confirm identification made with pocket instruments.

While any one of these instruments alone is unusually insufficient to make a conclusive identification, a combination of two or more will usually be enough to tell you what you really have. The key, of course, is knowing how to use them and what to look for. That’s how Gem Identification Made Easy will help you. While years of training and experience are necessary to become qualified as a professional gemologist, with practice and a little hands-on work, you will find it takes surprisingly little time before you will feel more confident about what you are buying and selling.

Thursday, February 22, 2007

Gemstone Market

In my opinion the gemstone market is definitely motivated by spontaneous human reactions, ignorance, fear and greed.

Gemstone Business

Think about it. Buying and selling gemstones is an art of passing gemstones from hand to hand until it finally disappears.

To Catch A Thief Movie

Memorable quote (s) from the movie:

Frances Stevens (Grace Kelly): Doesn't it make you nervous to be in the same room with thousands of dollars worth of diamonds, and unable to touch them?

John Robie (Cary Grant): No.

Frances Stevens (Grace Kelly): Like an alcoholic outside of a bar on Election Day?

John Robie (Cary Grant): Wouldn't know the feeling.

Frances Stevens (Grace Kelly): I have a feeling that tonight you're going to see one of the Riviera's most fascinating sights. I was talking about the fireworks!

John Robie (Cary Grant): I never doubted it.

Frances Stevens (Grace Kelly): The way you looked at my necklace, I didn't know... Even in this light, I can tell where your eyes are looking. Look, John. Hold them. Diamonds... The only thing in the world you can't resist. Then tell me you don't know what I'm talking about. Ever had a better offer in your whole life? One with everything?

John Robie (Cary Grant): I've never had a crazier one.

Frances Stevens (Grace Kelly): Just as long as you're satisfied!

John Robie (Cary Grant): You know as well as I do: this necklace is imitation.

Frances Stevens (Grace Kelly): Well, I'm not.

How To Buy And Sell Gems

By Benjamin Zucker
Times Books
1979 ISBN 0-8129-0903-8

Times Books writes:

Mr Zucker has used his intimate knowledge as a dealer in gems, as well as general investment counselor, to write the first book exclusively devoted to guiding the would be investor in gems.

Richly illustrating his text with photographs of gems (most of them in his own collection), Mr Zucker explains the geological origins of the various precious gems and their relative values. He offers a unique instructional guide to assessing the quality of a gem (the difference in color, for example, between a ruby from Burma and one from Ceylon (Sri Lanka), and how to judge its present and likely future worth, with precise details on past and present prices.

The owner of what may be the most valuable sapphire in the world (it is on loan to the Museum of Natural History in New York City), Mr Zucker sketches the history of gem collecting through the voyages of Marco Polo, and great collection of Iran, to the Diamond Syndicate, explaining how it first developed and how it operates today. He takes the reader on a trip through the gem mining areas of the world in Ceylon (Sri Lanka), Thailand, Burma, and Colombia, and lives his narrative throughout with anecdotes both personal and legendary, about custom, cutting, faceting, and dealing.

Most practically, several portfolios are suggested for the investor with $5000 to spend and the investor who is prepared to spend $20000 to $100000. With synthetic stones appearing more frequently on the market, Mr Zucker explains their introduction and methods, offers guidelines on how to determine if a gem is synthetic or genuine, and presents the latest discoveries in gemology.

Whether for the person interested only in the beauty and lore of these stones, or the person who wishes to buy gems for investment purposes, How To Buy And Sell Gems is an indispensable guide.

Wednesday, February 21, 2007

Understanding Gemstones

The general public has not by and large taken Understanding Gemstones 101, and those who did sit through it have probably forgotten much of what they learned.

Being There Movie

Memorable quote (s) from the movie:

President "Bobby" (Jack Warden): Mr. Gardner, do you agree with Ben, or do you think that we can stimulate growth through temporary incentives?

Chance the Gardener (Peter Sellers): As long as the roots are not severed, all is well. And all will be well in the garden.

President "Bobby" (Jack Warden): In the garden.

Chance the Gardener (Peter Sellers): Yes. In the garden, growth has it seasons. First comes spring and summer, but then we have fall and winter. And then we get spring and summer again.

President "Bobby" (Jack Warden): Spring and summer.

Chance the Gardener (Peter Sellers): Yes.

President "Bobby" (Jack Warden): Then fall and winter.

Chance the Gardener (Peter Sellers): Yes.

Benjamin Rand (Melvyn Douglas): I think what our insightful young friend is saying is that we welcome the inevitable seasons of nature, but we're upset by the seasons of our economy.

Chance the Gardener (Peter Sellers): Yes! There will be growth in the spring!

Benjamin Rand (Melvyn Douglas): Hmm!

Chance the Gardener (Peter Sellers): Hmm!

President "Bobby" (Jack Warden): Hmm. Well, Mr. Gardner, I must admit that is one of the most refreshing and optimistic statements I've heard in a very, very long time. I admire your good, solid sense. That's precisely what we lack on Capitol Hill.

The Language Of Gemstones: 1

I speak two languages: Body and English.
-Mae West

I love people and gemstones. I work with people from around the world who want to learn about gemstones and their values so that they can make a living buying or selling gemstones. In a way people are like gemstones of mixed qualities. They come in all shapes, sizes, colors and disguises. I enjoy working with them.

No two people are alike. The amazing thing about people is: they have beauty, rarity, and complex behavioral traits, but not always durable. Every person is a unique species with its own chemical, physical and emotional properties. Under proper magnification most are emotionally complex gemstones. I have yet to find a flawless or near flawless person. Most are born with inclusions, live their lives one way or the other and die, but gemstones live on.

For some time I have been noticing a strange phenomenon. Most people have attention deficit traits. They see, but don’t see; they listen, but don’t listen, and they like gemstones. They won't admit it, but they are unique. They are good pretenders. At times I get more passionate about people than gemstones because gemstones don’t talk. Really.

I also like the silence and solitude of gemstones. They are spiritual and therapeutic. People always love to talk, all the time. Correct me if I am wrong? Gemstones have a strange way of connecting with people—by its color, shape, size, flashes and a good story. Gemstones have taught me to become a keen observer so that I am able to analyze complex situations and find solutions; sort of identifying gemstones and people without instruments. It’s not perfect science, but it works.

Ruby and Sapphire

By Richard W Hughes
RWH Publishing
1997 ISBN 0-9645097-6-8

Richard Hughes writes:

Many in the gemological community take a dim view of non-scientific aspects of the subject. They question the need for details on mystical beliefs, history, even the gem business itself. In the author’s view, this is not only unfortunate, but unduly restrictive. Far too many gemological treatises are clinical heartless shells, with any trace of spirit sucked out in the name of science, proper diction or decorum. Considering we are fortunate to work with one of the most romantic products on the planet, this is all the more surprising.

Godehard Lenzen has rightly pointed out that gemology is not merely a subset of mineralogy, but simply knowledge of a certain type of merchandise. I subscribe to the Lenzen view. To my way of thinking, gemology is a rich tapestry of interwoven disciplines. It’s thread include not just mineralogy, physics, chemistry, crystallography and geology, but also history, trade, economics, decorative arts, religion, mysticism and magic. Yes, even magic.

Thus, what follows is not merely the science, but also the gemology of ruby and sapphire. I hope to convey its romance, its history, its beating heart, its spirit, its magic. If I have succeeded in capturing even a portion of that magic, then this book is a success.

More info @ RWH Publishing & Books, PO Box 2015, Fallbrook, CA 92088 USA

Tuesday, February 20, 2007

Rainbow Calsilica

Rainbow calsilica is an eye-catching product that is suitable for beads, fetishes, cabochons, carvings and jewelry. Jewelry designers love to work with this material because of its beautiful color patterns, and it is perceived as work of art. Some gem dealers believe that the material is mined near Chihuahua, Mexico. The material is composed of calcite, but may be enhanced with artificial coloring substances and then stabilized with plastic. Rainbow silica is available in the marketplace for all to admire. If in doubt consult a reputed gem testing laboratory.

Doing Business In Brazil

World Bank / IFC writes:

Brazilian cities vary significantly in the ease of doing business, according to the new Doing Business in Brazil report. This report is the second state-level report (last year's Doing Business in Mexico was the first), and it highlights the increasing importance of state and city level reforms in a globalized world. Cities, as much as countries, are now competing for investments.

Points of interest
Compared with Mexico, Brazilian cities perform better when it comes to the cost of registering property. But despite identical regulations across Brazil, there is a wide variation in the time it takes to transfer property – less than a month in São Luís, almost three months in Campo Grande. Also difficult in Campo Grande is contract enforcement. It can take over four years, while São Paulo's 18 months is the easiest. Complying with business regulations is easiest in Brasilia, but in Belo Horizonte it takes a mere two days to create and register collateral, as compared to 45 days in Brasilia. The tax burden is heavy across Brazil, in terms of tax rates and administrative complexities. Businesses in Rio de Janeiro have one of the highest tax burdens in the world. Easing regulation and establishing a favorable business environment for entrepreneurs is key to creating jobs and equitable growth. Brazil has undertaken reforms at the national, state, and municipal level but this report suggests areas where further reforms are possible.

More info @ http://www.doingbusiness.org/main/brazil.aspx

The GodFather

Memorable quote (s) from the movie:

Jack Woltz (John Marley): Johnny Fontane never gets that movie. That part is perfect for him, it'll make him a big star, and I'm gonna run him out of the business - and let me tell you why: Johnny Fontane ruined one of Woltz International's most valuable proteges. For five years we had her under training - singing lessons, acting lessons, dancing lessons. I spent hundreds of thousands of dollars on her, I was gonna make her a big star. And let me be even more frank, just to show you that I'm not a hard-hearted man, and that it's not all dollars and cents: She was beautiful; she was young; she was innocent. She was the greatest piece of ass I've ever had, and I've had 'em all over the world. And then Johnny Fontane comes along with his olive oil voice and guinea charm, and she runs off. She threw it all away just to make me look ridiculous! And a man in my position can't afford to be made to look ridiculous! Now you listen to me, you smooth talking son-of-a-bitch. Let me lay it on the line for you and your boss, whoever he is. Johnny Fontane will never get that movie. I don't care how many dago guinea wop greaseball goombahs come out of the woodwork.

The Federal Trade Commission’s Guide for the Jewelry, Precious Metals and Pewter Industries

FTC writes:

23.26 Misuse of the words "flawless," "perfect," etc.

(a) It is unfair or deceptive to use the word "flawless" as a quality description of any gemstone that discloses blemishes, inclusions, or clarity faults of any sort when examined under a corrected magnifier at 10-power, with adequate illumination, by a person skilled in gemstone grading.

(b) It is unfair or deceptive to use the word "perfect" or any representation of similar meaning to describe any gemstone unless the gemstone meets the definition of "flawless" and is not of inferior color or make.

(c) It is unfair or deceptive to use the word "flawless," "perfect," or any representation of similar meaning to describe any imitation gemstone.

Appendix--Exemptions Recognized in the Assay for Quality of Gold Alloy, Gold Filled, Gold Overlay, Rolled Gold Plate, Silver, and Platinum Industry Products.
(a) Exemptions recognized in the industry and not to be considered in any assay for quality of a karat gold industry product include springs, posts, and separable backs of lapel buttons, posts and nuts for attaching interchangeable ornaments, metallic parts completely and permanently encased in a nonmetallic covering, field pieces and bezels for lockets,10 and wire pegs or rivets used for applying mountings and other ornaments, which mountings or ornaments shall be of the quality marked.

Note: Exemptions recognized in the industry and not to be considered in any assay for quality of a karat gold optical product include: the hinge assembly (barrel or other special types such as are customarily used in plastic frames); washers, bushings, and nuts of screw assemblies; dowels; springs for spring shoe straps; metal parts permanently encased in a non-metallic covering; and for oxfords,11 coil and joint springs.

(b) Exemptions recognized in the industry and not to be considered in any assay for quality of a gold filled, gold overlay and rolled gold plate industry product, other than watchcases, include joints, catches, screws, pin stems, pins of scarf pins, hat pins, etc., field pieces and bezels for lockets, posts and separate backs of lapel buttons, bracelet and necklace snap tongues, springs, and metallic parts completely and permanently encased in a nonmetallic covering.

Note: Exemptions recognized in the industry and not to be considered in any assay for quality of a gold filled, gold overlay and rolled gold plate optical product include: screws; the hinge assembly (barrel or other special types such as are customarily used in plastic frames); washers, bushings, tubes and nuts of screw assemblies; dowels; pad inserts; springs for spring shoe straps, cores and/or inner windings of comfort cable temples; metal parts permanently encased in a non-metallic covering; and for oxfords, the handle and catch.

(c) Exemptions recognized in the industry and not to be considered in any assay for quality of a silver industry product include screws, rivets, springs, spring pins for wrist watch straps; posts and separable backs of lapel buttons; wire pegs, posts, and nuts used for applying mountings or other ornaments, which mountings or ornaments shall be of the quality marked; pin stems (e.g., of badges, brooches, emblem pins, hat pins, and scarf pins, etc.); levers for belt buckles; blades and skeletons of pocket knives; field pieces and bezels for lockets; bracelet and necklace snap tongues; any other joints, catches, or screws; and metallic parts completely and permanently encased in a nonmetallic covering.

(d) Exemptions recognized in the industry and not to be considered in any assay for quality of an industry product of silver in combination with gold include joints, catches, screws, pin stems, pins of scarf pins, hat pins, etc., posts and separable backs of lapel buttons, springs, and metallic parts completely and permanently encased in a nonmetallic covering.

(e) Exemptions recognized in the industry and not to be considered in any assay for quality of a platinum industry product include springs, winding bars, sleeves, crown cores, mechanical joint pins, screws, rivets, dust bands, detachable movement rims, hat-pin stems, and bracelet and necklace snap tongues. In addition, the following exemptions are recognized for products marked in accordance with section 23.8(b)(5) of these Guides (i.e., products that are less than 500 parts per thousand platinum): pin tongues, joints, catches, lapel button backs and the posts to which they are attached, scarf-pin stems, hat pin sockets, shirt-stud backs, vest-button backs, and ear-screw backs, provided such parts are made of the same quality platinum as is used in the balance of the article.

Footnotes
1. The Guides for the Watch Industry, 16 CFR part 245, address watchcases and permanently attached watchbands.
2. See 23.4(c) for examples of acceptable markings and descriptions.
3.The term substantial thickness means that all areas of the plating are of such thickness as to assure a durable coverage of the base metal to which it has been affixed. Since industry products include items having surfaces and parts of surfaces that are subject to different degrees of wear, the thickness of plating for all items or for different areas of the surface of individual items does not necessarily have to be uniform.
4. A product containing 1 micron (otherwise known as µ) of 12 karat gold is equivalent to one-half micron of 24 karat gold.
5. See footnote 3.
6. Under the National Stamping Act, articles or parts made of gold or of gold alloy that contain no solder have a permissible tolerance of three parts per thousand. If the part tested contains solder, the permissible tolerance is seven parts per thousand. For full text, see 15 U.S.C. 295, et seq.
7. See footnote 3.
8. See footnote 3.
9. Under the National Stamping Act, sterling silver articles or parts that contain no solder have a permissible tolerance of four parts per thousand. If the part tested contains solder, the permissible tolerance is ten parts per thousand. For full text, see 15 U.S.C. 294, et seq.
10. Field pieces of lockets are those inner portions used as frames between the inside edges of the locket and the spaces for holding pictures. Bezels are the separable inner metal rings to hold the pictures in place.
11. Oxfords are a form of eyeglasses where a flat spring joins the two eye rims and the tension it exerts on the nose serves to hold the unit in place. Oxfords are also referred to as pince nez.

More info @ http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/guides/jewel-gd.htm

The Complete Handbook For Gemstone Weight Estimation

By Charles I Carmona
Gemania Publishing Company
1998 ISBN 0-9666370-0-3

Richard Liddicoat writes:

A serious problem for all of those who are called upon to appraise or identify the gems set in various types of jewelry is first to ascertain not only the identity of the gems, but also the weight of the gems in rings, bracelets, necklaces—or other forms. Often, the nature of the mounting makes it difficult.

Charles Carmona has spent many years assembling and / or developing a remarkably comprehensive set of weight estimation formulae for mounted diamonds, colored stones and pearls—and used them to prepare detailed tables based on millimeter measurements. Those who appraise, buy, sell, insure or loan on used or estate jewelry depend on accuracy in weight estimation. Such individuals engaged in activities involving a need for accuracy in weight estimations for estate purposes, appraising, identification, pawnbroking of jewelry, or other needs should consider such detailed tables a major resource in their estimating process. Obviously most practitioners have some means of estimating the weight of common shapes, but the number of shapes included in Carmona’s tables is unusual.

Obviously, estimation tables are only substitutes for direct weighing, but when that is not an option, accurate tables become a vital tool. It is also obvious that no individual would have access to every size and shape of every gemstone included in comprehensive tables. Many sizes and shapes were measured in quartz or synthetics for the differences in specific gravity. Extrapolation was used to fill in between measured samples.

Frequent users are likely to make their own adjustments to various elements of the tables as they employ them, but their availability in such detail should prove to be exceptionally useful to many in the jewelry industry.

About the author
Charles I Carmona has been active in the mineral collecting hobby and the gem and jewelry trade for over 30 years, from prospecting and mining to gem cutting, wholesale and retail sales, and extensive experience in the appraisal of all types of gemstones and jewelry. As a consultant to attorneys, accountants, banks, government agencies and the gem and jewelry trade, his reputation as an expert has been well established. The need to accurately estimate the weights of mounted gemstones on a daily basis led to this compendium of formulas and tables.

Monday, February 19, 2007

Gem Artists Of North America

Gem Artists of North America is a forum for artists and professionals of the gem art industry. They offer information about gem carvers and their various techniques.

More info @ http://www.gemartists.org

The Traveler

Pablo Neruda writes:

They are not so sad these stones.
Inside them lives the gold,
holding seeds of planets,
holding bells in their depths,
gauntlets of iron, marriage
of time with amethysts:
within they laugh with rubies!
they were nourished by lightning.

For what, traveler, beware
of the sadness of the road,
of the mysteries in the walls.

Much it cost me to learn
that not all is alive without,
and not all is dead within,
and that Age inscribes letters
with water and stone for no one,
so that none may know where,
so that none may understand.

Manhattan Movie

Memorable quote (s) from the movie:

Isaac Davis (Woody Allen): This is so antiseptic. It's empty. Why do you think this is funny? You're going by audience reaction? This is an audience that's raised on television, their standards have been systematically lowered over the years. These guys sit in front of their sets and the gamma rays eat the white cells of their brains out!

Mary Wilke (Diane Keaton): I was tired of submerging my identity to a very brilliant, dominating man. He's a genius.

Isaac Davis (Woody Allen): Oh really, he was a genius, Helen's a genius and Dennis is a genius. You know a lot of geniuses, you know. You should meet some stupid people once in a while, you know, you could learn something.

Doing Business In Mexico

World Bank / IFC writes:

Doing Business in Mexico 2007 is the second sub-national report in the series Doing Business in Mexico. Last year, quantitative indicators on business regulations and their enforcement were created for 12 cities and states. This year, Doing Business in Mexico 2007 covers all 31 states of the Mexican Republic and measures the progress of the 12 states analyzed last year. The report finds that some states compare well with the best of the world, while others need much reform to become globally competitive. Doing Business in Mexico 2007 gives federal, state, and local policymakers the ability to measure regulatory performance against other states and countries, learn from global and national best practices, and prioritize reforms.

Points of interest
Aguascalientes was the easiest state in which to do business last year. State and city officials have successfully used the benchmark as a promotional tool to compete for business at home and abroad. Simultaneously, they have continued to press ahead with reforms. As a result, Aguascalientes earned the top rank again this year. Querétaro, the lowest ranked overall performer last year, created a public-private task force dedicated to improving its benchmarks. The task force systematically studied bottlenecks, proposed reforms, and measured progress throughout the year. The reforms helped Querétaro climb nine ranks on the ease of doing business to number seven out of 31 states and Mexico City. In this year’s report, three of the top six performers are “new” states: Sonora, which ranks fourth, Campeche in fifth place, and Zacatecas in sixth. Sonora and Campeche are especially efficient when it comes to property registration, ranking first and second in that indicator. Zacatecas stands out both in the ease of registering collateral to access credit, as well as in the ease of enforcing contracts, where it is the top performer. Such state and city level reforms are becoming increasingly important in a globalized world, where specific locations as much as countries compete for investment – e.g. Monterrey versus Shanghai rather than Mexico versus China.

More info @ http://www.doingbusiness.org/main/Mexico.aspx

The Federal Trade Commission’s Guide for the Jewelry, Precious Metals and Pewter Industries

FTC writes:

23.25 Misuse of the word "gem."

(a) It is unfair or deceptive to use the word "gem" to describe, identify, or refer to a ruby, sapphire, emerald, topaz, or other industry product that does not possess the beauty, symmetry, rarity, and value necessary for qualification as a gem.

(b) It is unfair or deceptive to use the word "gem" to describe any laboratory-created industry product unless the product meets the requirements of paragraph (a) of this section and unless such word is immediately accompanied, with equal conspicuousness, by the word "laboratory-grown," "laboratory-created," or "[manufacturer-name]-created," "synthetic," or by some other word or phrase of like meaning, so as to clearly disclose that it is not a natural gem.

Note to 23.25: In general, use of the word "gem" with respect to laboratory-created stones should be avoided since few laboratory-created stones possess the necessary qualifications to properly be termed "gems." Imitation diamonds and other imitation stones should not be described as "gems." Not all diamonds or natural stones, including those classified as precious stones, possess the necessary qualifications to be properly termed "gems."

More info @ http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/guides/jewel-gd.htm

A Roman Book On Precious Stones

By Sydney H Ball
Gemological Institute of America
1950

Sydney H Ball writes:

Rightly or wrongly, I have for some years felt that the outstanding classical book on precious stones, the 37th book of Pliny’s Natural History, has never been edited by one well versed in the lore of precious stones.

After years of disuse, my Latin limps; consequently, I take the liberty, to save the reader’s busy time, of rendering into modern English what is generally considered to be at least one of the best English translations, that of Philemon Holland, published in London in 1601. (The Historie of the World, commonly called the Naturall Historie of C Plinius Secundus. Translated into English by Philemon Holland, Doctor of Physicks. Printed in London by Adam Islip, 1601).

Holland graduated from Trinity College, Cambridge, and later received his M D from an unknown university. While practicing his profession, he translated a dozen Greek and Latin works. That he was not over paid is suggested by the fact that one such arduous task he received 4 pounds; for another 5 pounds. Referring to his translations, Fuller in his Worthies says, “These books alone of his turning into English will make a country gentleman a competent library.”

I have ventured, for easier reference, to disregard Holland’s rather inadequate chapter headings and have introduced the more numerous and more logical headings in the Latin edition of Jean Hardouin (Joannes Hardiunus, Paris, 1723).

No work is complete, and this one is far from it. For the shortcomings of my modest part in this book, I can only claim indulgence. As for Holland’s translation, my introductory chapters and notes were written in “those hours which might be spared from the practice of my profession and the necessarie cares of this life.” I am in great debt to Miss Kay Swindler who edited my manuscript.

Sunday, February 18, 2007

Where Do You Find Diamonds?

Diamonds are found in three types of deposits.
- alluvial
- glacial tills
- kimberlite / lamproite pipes

A Beautiful Mind Movie

Memorable quote (s) from the movie:

Alicia (Jennifer Connelly): How big is the universe?

Nash (Russell Crowe): Infinite.

Alicia (Jennifer Connelly): How do you know?

Nash (Russell Crowe): I know because all the data indicates it's infinite.

Alicia (Jennifer Connelly): But it hasn't been proven yet.

Nash (Russell Crowe): No.

Alicia (Jennifer Connelly): You haven't seen it.

Nash (Russell Crowe): No.

Alicia Jennifer Connelly): How do you know for sure?

Nash (Russell Crowe): I don't, I just believe it.

Alicia (Jennifer Connelly): It's the same with love I guess.

Doing Business In Africa

World Bank / IFC writes:

Last year and the year before, Africa lagged behind all other regions in the pace of reform. This year it ranks third, behind only Eastern Europe and Central Asia and the OECD high-income countries (figure 1.2). Two-thirds of African countries made at least one reform, and Tanzania and Ghana rank among the top 10 reformers.

Some examples of what African countries reformed include:

In Côte d’Ivoire registering property took 397 days in 2005. Reforms eliminated a requirement to obtain the urban minister’s consent to transfer property. Now it takes 32 days.

Burkina Faso cut the procedures for starting a business from 12 to 8 and the time from 45 days to 34.

Madagascar reduced the minimum capital for start-ups from 10 million francs to 2 million.

Tanzania introduced electronic data interchange and risk-based inspections at customs. The time to clear imports fell by 12 days.

Gambia, Nigeria, and Tanzania reduced delays in the courts. More improvements are under way, and these will be reflected in the Doing Business indicators next year.

Benin, Burkina Faso, Cameroon, Gambia, Madagascar, Malawi, Mali, Mozambique, Niger, Nigeria, and Zambia have all started to simplify business regulation. The easy reforms—what can be done by the stroke of a minister’s pen—are coming first. Small as these initial reforms may be, they can attract investors who seek the growth opportunities that will follow. India’s economic boom may have started with just such reforms in the 1980s.

Several African countries are more ambitious. Mauritius set a goal of reaching the top 10 on the ease of doing business by 2009. It has targeted numerous areas of reform: making labor regulation more flexible, reducing the burden of paying taxes and speeding business entry and property registration. One reform: starting in 2007 every business will receive a unique business registration number, and entrepreneurs will no longer have to register in person for the income tax, value added tax, customs and social security numbers. The aim is to have data move around inside the government, not to have entrepreneurs run around from one office to another.

More info @ http://www.doingbusiness.org/main/Africa_Reforms.aspx

The Federal Trade Commission’s Guide for the Jewelry, Precious Metals and Pewter Industries

FTC writes:

23.24 Misuse of the words "real," "genuine," "natural," "precious," etc.

It is unfair or deceptive to use the word "real," "genuine," "natural," "precious," "semi-precious," or similar terms to describe any industry product that is manufactured or produced artificially.

More info @ http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/guides/jewel-gd.htm

Precious Stones And Gems

By Edwin W Streeter
George Bell & Sons
1884

Edwin W Streeter writes:

Many pages have been written on the history of precious stones. Authorities on authorities, from remote antiquity to this our day, have been cited as to their value, their uses, their beauties, and their properties, but still one might venture to say that there are fewer judges of the genuineness and real value of precious stones than there are treatises to guide people to such knowledge. Would it be altogether unwarrantable to express a grave doubt whether even in the trade there are very many skilled in detecting the real measure of difference between one stone and another, either by that most essential test, the specific gravity, or by minor tests of a more trivial character? Be this as it may, I have arrived at the deliberate conviction, as a merchant and dealer long versed in the purchase and sale of gems, that some practical and popular guide to those who have an interest in ascertaining and testing the genuineness and value of precious stones, is urgently needed, and cannot fail to be generally useful.

As an illustration of the difficulties of the subject, it may be stated that Professor Church, in a lecture delivered the Society of Arts on April 6th, 1881, pointed out a number of errors in the identification of a collection of precious stones which had been exhibited for years at the South Kensington Museum, although the official description of these stones had been confided to a well-known professor of mineralogy and expert in gems.

In the division of family jewels much injustice is often done by persons incompetent to form a correct opinion of their relative values. A study of this handbook may serve to demonstrate the difficulty of an accurate discrimination. In all cases it would be wise to submit the jewels to a practiced judge, whether for valuation or for probate. It is not right to leave the decision to some house agent or mutual friend.

A lady had bequeathed to her some family jewels, consisting of a sapphire and diamond suite. As they had passed probate several times, there was no doubt in the mind of the legatee of the genuineness of the sapphires. On being applied to in relation to their value, I had to pronounce the sapphires to be only paste. Had they been genuine they would have realized from 30000 pounds to 40000 pounds.

One often sees the spinel and the balas—the one a lively poppy red, and the other a violet rose—usurping the dignity of the true ruby; and yet the pure ruby of ten carats is worth from 3800 pounds to 4800 pounds, while the other stones, called by the same name, would be dear at one hundred pounds.

A gem should be a real possession, capable of affording pleasure to the wearer and the spectator, and, with fair usage, retaining an intrinsic and marketable value, undiminished by the lapse of time. I have sometimes seen in wear gems so scratched that their luster has been seriously impaired, and a suspicion was thus excited in the minds of wearers, friends, and dealers, that there was a defect in the hardness of the stones, and consequently in their in genuineness. It may be worth while to point out that a small sum expended in repolishing such stones would restore their original luster, revive the pleasure derived from the possession of them, and prevent the risk of their being sold as paste or imitation jewelry.

The value of precious stones must vary to some extent with the caprice of fashion—a gem which at one period stands high in public favor being at another time less eagerly sought after. Thus the chrysolite of the ancients, though highly esteemed by them, has not retained its popular character.

It is quite pardonable, and of small consequence, that the characteristic of the less valuable gemstones should be comparatively unknown; but there are precious stones about which there should be no doubt in the mind either of the purchaser or the merchant, viz., the diamond, ruby, emerald, sapphire, opal, cat’s eye, alexandrite, and pearl.

In other matters the distinction between a genuine and fictitious material is generally well understood, and fastidiously recognized. A lady refuses to wear a gown composed of an inferior fabric, intended to represent silk, because of its color, texture, and draping indicate, to every experienced eye, the substitution of the false for the real; but she often seems to ignore the fact that the color, the brilliancy, and the texture of a true gem, are as distinguishable from those of the false or mere imitation, as the cotton is from the silk. We presume to believe that in the case of the gown, which in a few nights wear altogether loses its worth, the genuineness of the material is of far less consequence than it is in the case of gems, which should be heirlooms of value, not much deteriorated by the lapse of years.

In determining the value of gems, it should be borne in mind that a perfect stone is rarely met with; and that probably, not even ten percent of the stones which are brought into commerce are really of fine quality. In the mineral kingdom, as in other department of nature, perfection is almost unknown.

Much study and attention will be required to attain a knowledge of the properties and appearance of gems, but the subject is by no means unattractive, and may be turned to good account.

With objects such as those referred to above, I am publishing the present volume, the outcome of more than thirty seven years’ experience , and of the united knowledge of many men of science, and of my contemporaries in trade. I hope that it may be of some service to us as merchants, and to the public in general.

It must be borne in mind that this book is not intended to be a strictly scientific treatise, but rather a practical work for those who, whether in the trade or among the public at large, desire to obtain some knowledge of the general characteristics of precious stones and gems.

In conclusion, I trust that the Goldsmiths’ Company, as fathers of the trade, will ere long throw open their fine suite of rooms in Foster Lane, and will not only establish a comprehensive library of books bearing on the study of jewelry, but by giving gratuitous lectures on precious stones and precious metals will offer that aid to the younger members of our trade which is necessary for a proper understanding of their daily business. To this company we must also look for aids to the more general appreciation of fine art jewelry, by affording favorable opportunities for exhibitions, and by awarding prizes, similar to those offered by the Turner’ Company. This would give an impetus to study to those engaged in jewelry work, and would enable the public to obtain a more accurate knowledge of and to take a deeper interest in a subject which has hitherto remained the property of the exclusive few.

The legacies bequeathed to the Goldsmiths’ Company by the famous goldsmiths and jewelers of the 15th,16th, and 17th centuries, which have since increased in value to an extent almost inconceivable, without doubt were intended for some such purposes as those to which I have referred. I find that so early as 1415, a celebrated goldsmith, Sir Drugo Barentine, who was Lord Mayor of London in 1398, and again in 1408, gave faire lands to this Company.

For the subject matter which forms the basis of this volume, I am in an especial manner indebted to the work of Professor Kluge, translated by Mrs Brewer; and I have also to acknowledge my obligations to Major F B Beaumont, Mr James A Forster, and others who have obligingly contributed information.