Precious Stones And Gems

By Edwin W Streeter
George Bell & Sons
1884

Edwin W Streeter writes:

Many pages have been written on the history of precious stones. Authorities on authorities, from remote antiquity to this our day, have been cited as to their value, their uses, their beauties, and their properties, but still one might venture to say that there are fewer judges of the genuineness and real value of precious stones than there are treatises to guide people to such knowledge. Would it be altogether unwarrantable to express a grave doubt whether even in the trade there are very many skilled in detecting the real measure of difference between one stone and another, either by that most essential test, the specific gravity, or by minor tests of a more trivial character? Be this as it may, I have arrived at the deliberate conviction, as a merchant and dealer long versed in the purchase and sale of gems, that some practical and popular guide to those who have an interest in ascertaining and testing the genuineness and value of precious stones, is urgently needed, and cannot fail to be generally useful.

As an illustration of the difficulties of the subject, it may be stated that Professor Church, in a lecture delivered the Society of Arts on April 6th, 1881, pointed out a number of errors in the identification of a collection of precious stones which had been exhibited for years at the South Kensington Museum, although the official description of these stones had been confided to a well-known professor of mineralogy and expert in gems.

In the division of family jewels much injustice is often done by persons incompetent to form a correct opinion of their relative values. A study of this handbook may serve to demonstrate the difficulty of an accurate discrimination. In all cases it would be wise to submit the jewels to a practiced judge, whether for valuation or for probate. It is not right to leave the decision to some house agent or mutual friend.

A lady had bequeathed to her some family jewels, consisting of a sapphire and diamond suite. As they had passed probate several times, there was no doubt in the mind of the legatee of the genuineness of the sapphires. On being applied to in relation to their value, I had to pronounce the sapphires to be only paste. Had they been genuine they would have realized from 30000 pounds to 40000 pounds.

One often sees the spinel and the balas—the one a lively poppy red, and the other a violet rose—usurping the dignity of the true ruby; and yet the pure ruby of ten carats is worth from 3800 pounds to 4800 pounds, while the other stones, called by the same name, would be dear at one hundred pounds.

A gem should be a real possession, capable of affording pleasure to the wearer and the spectator, and, with fair usage, retaining an intrinsic and marketable value, undiminished by the lapse of time. I have sometimes seen in wear gems so scratched that their luster has been seriously impaired, and a suspicion was thus excited in the minds of wearers, friends, and dealers, that there was a defect in the hardness of the stones, and consequently in their in genuineness. It may be worth while to point out that a small sum expended in repolishing such stones would restore their original luster, revive the pleasure derived from the possession of them, and prevent the risk of their being sold as paste or imitation jewelry.

The value of precious stones must vary to some extent with the caprice of fashion—a gem which at one period stands high in public favor being at another time less eagerly sought after. Thus the chrysolite of the ancients, though highly esteemed by them, has not retained its popular character.

It is quite pardonable, and of small consequence, that the characteristic of the less valuable gemstones should be comparatively unknown; but there are precious stones about which there should be no doubt in the mind either of the purchaser or the merchant, viz., the diamond, ruby, emerald, sapphire, opal, cat’s eye, alexandrite, and pearl.

In other matters the distinction between a genuine and fictitious material is generally well understood, and fastidiously recognized. A lady refuses to wear a gown composed of an inferior fabric, intended to represent silk, because of its color, texture, and draping indicate, to every experienced eye, the substitution of the false for the real; but she often seems to ignore the fact that the color, the brilliancy, and the texture of a true gem, are as distinguishable from those of the false or mere imitation, as the cotton is from the silk. We presume to believe that in the case of the gown, which in a few nights wear altogether loses its worth, the genuineness of the material is of far less consequence than it is in the case of gems, which should be heirlooms of value, not much deteriorated by the lapse of years.

In determining the value of gems, it should be borne in mind that a perfect stone is rarely met with; and that probably, not even ten percent of the stones which are brought into commerce are really of fine quality. In the mineral kingdom, as in other department of nature, perfection is almost unknown.

Much study and attention will be required to attain a knowledge of the properties and appearance of gems, but the subject is by no means unattractive, and may be turned to good account.

With objects such as those referred to above, I am publishing the present volume, the outcome of more than thirty seven years’ experience , and of the united knowledge of many men of science, and of my contemporaries in trade. I hope that it may be of some service to us as merchants, and to the public in general.

It must be borne in mind that this book is not intended to be a strictly scientific treatise, but rather a practical work for those who, whether in the trade or among the public at large, desire to obtain some knowledge of the general characteristics of precious stones and gems.

In conclusion, I trust that the Goldsmiths’ Company, as fathers of the trade, will ere long throw open their fine suite of rooms in Foster Lane, and will not only establish a comprehensive library of books bearing on the study of jewelry, but by giving gratuitous lectures on precious stones and precious metals will offer that aid to the younger members of our trade which is necessary for a proper understanding of their daily business. To this company we must also look for aids to the more general appreciation of fine art jewelry, by affording favorable opportunities for exhibitions, and by awarding prizes, similar to those offered by the Turner’ Company. This would give an impetus to study to those engaged in jewelry work, and would enable the public to obtain a more accurate knowledge of and to take a deeper interest in a subject which has hitherto remained the property of the exclusive few.

The legacies bequeathed to the Goldsmiths’ Company by the famous goldsmiths and jewelers of the 15th,16th, and 17th centuries, which have since increased in value to an extent almost inconceivable, without doubt were intended for some such purposes as those to which I have referred. I find that so early as 1415, a celebrated goldsmith, Sir Drugo Barentine, who was Lord Mayor of London in 1398, and again in 1408, gave faire lands to this Company.

For the subject matter which forms the basis of this volume, I am in an especial manner indebted to the work of Professor Kluge, translated by Mrs Brewer; and I have also to acknowledge my obligations to Major F B Beaumont, Mr James A Forster, and others who have obligingly contributed information.