Jewelry Week

The Las Vegas Antique Jewelry & Watch Show opens from May 28 to June 1, 2009, at Bally's. The annual trade-only event, which opens two days before the JCK Show, will feature rare and unusual antique and vintage pieces from famous brands including Cartier, Rolex, Tiffany's, Harry Winston, Patek Philippe and Van Cleef & Arpels. Check out the link www.dmgantiqueshows.com

Greenland Rubies

Canadian company caught in middle of fight over Greenland rubies
http://www.google.com/hostednews/canadianpress/article/ALeqM5ggEo7H8KAyoewlx10_0P7Qepkj-g
http://www.fairjewelry.org/archives/526

The mine, now entering the feasibility and regulatory phase, could open as early as 2011. When it does, it could break the deadlock on the global ruby market now held by the military junta in Myanmar, also known as Burma.
- Andrew Smith, CEO, True North Gems

Useful links:
www.truenorthgems.com
www.bmp.gl

Ruby From The Vatomandry Area Of Eastern Madagascar

(via Gemmology Queensland, Vol.5, No.3, March 2004)

For about a year, Thai gem merchants have been selling considerable amounts of ruby from a recently discovered alluvial source in central eastern Madagascar. The principal source of this ruby is an area about 15km south-west of the central coastal town of Vatomandry. Ruby from this deposit has several interesting features:
- A considerable proportion of the rough does not require heat treatment.
- Some of the ruby closely resembles premium Burmese ruby in color.

In the recently published July 2001 issue of The Journal of Gemmology (pp 409-416), Schwartz & Schemetzer have described the identifying features of this ruby. The authors research has revealed that although ruby from this deposit displays the conventional properties of ruby, their fluorescence was weak to medium for LWUV and inert to very weak for SWUV (due to their 0.1-0.7 wt% content of Fe³+).

Characteristic inclusions observed in specimens that had not been treated included:
- Twin lamellae oriented in two directions.
- Intersecting twin lamellae decorated by tube to needle-like masses of white boehmite particles.
- Short needles and twinned or elongated plate-like crystals of rutile that are oriented in three directions.
- No visible growth zoning.
- Clusters of small, colorless to whitish birefringent zircon crystals.
- A few large apatite crystals.
- Healed fractures of variable shapes.

Trace element analysis of Vatomandry ruby revealed that this ruby has a higher (0.1-0.7 wt%) iron content than Burmese ruby (0.005 wt%), and it contains more vanadium (0.005-0.07 wt %) that Thai-Cambodian ruby (0.01 wt%).

Further, the authors suggest that heat treatment of this ruby at low temperature (<1450°C) to remove any purplish overtone could be difficult to detect—particularly if the rubies only had rutile and clusters of zircon as their only inclusions.

The authors conclude that this ruby’s unique trace element chemistry, combined with its lack of growth zoning, short rutile needles, and clusters of small zircon, will allow its discrimination from ruby of similar color but differing provenance such as Burma and Thailand-Cambodia.

Special Effects

I love movies, because the concept enable the characters to simulate their natural talent with good acting and special effects. The reality is that in the movies a sound mixer combines all three elements of the film’s soundtrack: the dialogue, music and sound effects to create the voice of the film. In a way movies and colored gemstones are on the same wavelength. They are sensitive, attractive, and provides constant emotional stimulation--a lightswitch. A gem cutter combines size, shape, color, clarity and cut to create the voice of a colored gemstone. I would say 34% color, 33% clarity, and 33% cut—it’s life.

Minerals On Postage Stamps

(via Mineral Digest Vol. 1, 1972) Franklin R Bruns, Jr writes:

In the fall of 1594 the Spanish galleon San Pedro, en route home with treasure from the New World, was wrecked on the north Bermuda reefs, and went down to the bottom. There it lay for more than three hundred years, until Teddy Tucker, a Bermudian diver, salvaged much of the treasure, including jewels, gold and artifacts. Valued at more than US $560000, the treasure was sold to the Bermuda government in 1961. Part of it is now on display at the Museum of Natural History in Flatts Village.

The finest single item from Tucker’s salvage is an emerald-studded gold cross that is three inches long, with a 11/4 inch traverse bar set with seven Colombian emeralds, the cross alone is valued at US$75000. One Dutch jewelry expert said it might take ten years to match at set of perfect emeralds like these, if indeed they could be matched at all. Colombian emeralds are, of course, at their best, second to none. It is believed that the jeweled cross was made by South American Indians, probably under the supervision of a Spanish jewelsmith.

In 1969, Bermuda issued a set of four colorful stamps portraying the emerald-studded cross from the San Pedro. Each stamp bore the identifying legend. “1594 Treasure from the sea.” The four postal items were in denominations of 4d, 1s/3d, 2s, and 2s/6d.

Since the cross was recovered from the sea, it seemed rather fitting that artist V Whiteley should have used a sea fan background for two of the stamps and coral reefs on the others. Of course, Bermuda was not the only country to feature emeralds on its postal issues. A Colombian airmail stamp of 1932-39 showed a large emerald on two high values. In the same period Colombia released a regular postage set with an emerald mine, a platinum mine, gold mining scene, and a scene of oil wells.

However, with thousands of new postage stamps released each year, it is rather surprising that so few designs relate to, or picture, minerals. Plainly, this area has not been exploited philatelically, as have flowers, birds and fishes.

With the technological advances in stamp printing, and the increasing output of brilliantly colored issues by many nations, it should not be long before a number of well awaken and stress the breadth of their mineral resources on their postage stamps. The United States, for example, has not issued a single stamp with a mineral design, or even a mineral theme, unless one considers the commemoration of the first American oil well as celebrating a national mineral asset.

A few years ago, there was a move to persuade the post office to issue mineral stamp to mark the presence of a mineralogy convention in Washington D.C. The design was to feature a brooch that was mounted with gems from each of the states. Unfortunately the move was unsuccessful, although the brooch was made and was presented to Lady Bird Johnson, later to be turned over to the Smithsonian Institution.

Perhaps the closest the United States has come to include any mineral or gem on a stamp is the instance of the $1.00 value stamp in the 1893 Columbian Exposition series which shows Queen Isabella pledging her jewels. Items of jewelry may also be seen in the illustrations on other stamps in this series: Columbus Soliciting Columbus Describing his Third Voyage.

In 1898, the United States also showed a Western Mining Prospector; the “Golden Spike Ceremony” marking the completion of the trans-continental railroad systems; the discovery of gold at Sutter’s Mill; a gold miner; and one for silver.

Now that Postmaster General Winton M Blount has approved a revival of the conservation stamp program, perhaps there may, one day, be stamps that depict our rich mineral resources. The conservation stamp program, initiated under former Postmaster General Arthur E Summerfield, employed pictures of wildlife, soil, forest, water and range conservation.

Stressing the importance of water conservation, France and Andorra, incidentally, recently released single stamps with a droplet that is a diamond to indicate the preciousness of water. Although Canada has immense mineral wealth, she, too has been remiss here in the field of philatelics. One Canadian stamp shows a miner with pneumatic drill and another miner panning gold. But there have been no Canadian stamps to call attention to the incredible variety of her minerals, not even her asbestos or uranium sources.

Of course, Canada, with its British heritage and association, has often shown jewel bedecked royalty and the great crowns of Britain frequently have appeared on her stamps. Indeed, there have been crowns aplenty on postage stamps. For Canada alone, one can cite the ‘young and old Victoria’ jubilee design of 1897; the Princess and Prince of Wales, later King George V and Queen Mary; Queen Alexandra and King Edward VII; King George V and Queen Elizabeth; and Queen Elizabeth II.

The British crowns naturally appear on postal issues of the United Kingdom and the countries within the Commonwealth. However, other bejeweled items in the state regalia, including those that hundreds of thousands have seen and marveled over at the exhibit in the Tower of London, have not been featured on British issues. Bejeweled crowns have, of course, been utilized widely in stamp designs of other lands. Two instances are Czechoslovakia’s altarpiece with the 14th century crown of St. Wenceslas, and far for Iran the coronation attire of Queen Farak of Persia. The great crowns worn by royalty have been adorned with fabulous gems from various parts of the world. Since these were generally mined before they were cut and polished, it is fitting that the part played by mining should be recognized. The collector of minerals on postage stamps may therefore include mining, and also metallurgy. Victor J Van Lint of the American Topical Association, specialist in mining on postage stamps provided the data for the following:

Surface mining, as depicted by a miner panning gold, for example, on a Canadian stamp is the first step in the many processes concerned with the wrestling of wealth from the earth. Next comes placering. Here water supplies are required, since, gold, platinum or precious stones, are caught behind riffles in a sluice box while a swift current of water carries off the dirt, clay, and gravel. Such a sluice is shown on a British Guiana (now Guyana) stamp. Dredge mining is shown on a Malaya stamp.

Underground mining may be pursued via three methods: by tunnels, inclined shafts, and vertical shafts. An example of a tunnel mine is on a Bolivian stamp, while a Chilean stamp shows an inclined shaft. A vertical shaft appears on a Czechoslovakian stamp.

Other postage stamps illustrate equipment used in mining. On stamps from Austria, Germany, the Saar, and Russia are shown headframes over mines, lamps used by miners, loaders, and, of course, miners with hammer, chisel and pickaxe, as well as the more modern pneumatic airpick. The Federal Republic of Germany recently issued a quartet of stamps that covered the mining operation graphically: a young miner and lamp, a miner with drill, a miner and conveyor, and a miner and coal elevator.

Romania has issued stamps showing a miner in dress uniform and also in work uniform. In 1949, Czechoslovakia marked the 700th anniversary of its mining industry, and the 150th anniversary of its miner’s laws by featuring early miners, a contemporary miner, and a mining machine. In 1952, it marked Miner’s Day—Sept. 14—with a 17th century mining tower.

While fairly comprehensive collections can be formed on mines and mining, the same cannot be said of gems and minerals. Happily for the mineral collector who is not particularly interested in postage stamps except as they feature minerals, there are a number of postal issues that present attractive minerals in crystals or groups. Here Switzerland has been the leader, natural in a sense because the Swiss have always valued the fine specimens found in their Alps. Over a four year period, from 1958 to 1961, this country issued numerous semi-postal stamps, showing fine minerals. (Semi-postal stamps have two values, one for the postage; the other to indicate the amount set aside for some worthy cause, in this instance, to benefit needy mothers.)

The first Swiss minerals set, released in 1958, displayed Fluorite, Garnet and Rock Crystal. The set also included Ammonite. Ammonite, of course, is a fossil, but it is not unusual for fossils to be included in postal issues devoted to minerals, not because so many mineral collectors also acquire fossils but because fossils, too, are found in the earth.

In 1959, Switzerland’s second set showed Agate, Tourmaline, Amethyst and Fossilized Salamander. In 1960, the subjects were Smoky Quartz, Feldspar, Gryphaea Fossil and Azurite. In 1961, to close the Swiss mineral program, came Fluorite, Petrified fish, Lazulite and Petrified fern. Also in 1961, Southwest Africa showed Tourmaline and Topaz. And, in 1963, Mexico, which has vast mineral resources, pictured Crystals.

In a set marking the bicentennial of the famous Mining Academy in Freiburg, the German Democratic Republic included stamps showing splendid Proustite crystals and Sulphur crystals. Other values showed an old furnace and ancient miners, both illustrations based on early woodcuts. More minerals appeared on a fine set of six stamps issued by the German Democratic Republic in mid-1969. The subjects were: Fluorite from Halsbrucke, Erythrite from Schneeberg, Galena from Neudorf, Smoky Quartz from Lichtenberg, Calcite from Niederrabenstein and Silver from Freiburg.

The most striking of the Russian issues relating to mineralogy appeared in 1963. Naturally, they emphasized the precious stones from the mineral-rich Ural mountains. Shown were Topaz, Jasper, Amethyst, Emerald, Rhodonite, and Malachite. In 1968, the USSR offered a 6 kopek stamp with a Crystal and the emblem of the 8th Congress for Mineral Research.

In 1969, Hungary issued a fine series featuring both fossils and minerals. Four portrayed, individually, native Copper coated with Malachite, Cuprite, a group displaying Calcite and Sphalerite with the uncommon Greenockite, and a fine Quartz crystal group. South Rhodesia pictured emeralds in 1964, but a large number of postage stamps have featured the Diamond. Sierra Leone, especially, has emphasized its role as the Land of Iron & Diamonds. Incidentally, this West African country utilizes printed and embossed self-adhesive stamps that are cut in various shapes, and are attached to peelable paper backing which may carry different advertisements.

A faceted pear-shaped Diamond was chosen for the design when Sierra Leone marked the 75th anniversary of its Bay Scout movement with a special postage stamp. This self-adhesive commemorative was released December 3, 1969. Late in 1965 Sierra Leone released three airmail stamps in unique form. The self-adhesive stamp was cut in the shape of a faceted Diamond, with a reverse-embossed design of an elaborate Diamond necklace. The name of the famous American jeweler Harry Winston was on either side of the bottom apex of the Diamond.

Other self-adhesive issues from the Land of Iron & Diamond appeared in 1964, 1965, 1966 and 1967. These had the shapes of a map of Sierra Leone, a cola nut, an eagle and a round coin. In 1961, when statehood was attained, one of the first traditional Sierra Leone stamps showed a Diamond miner. In 1961, Tanganyika featured a Rose Diamond and a mine. In 1966, Central African Republic depicted a Diamond grade. Other stamps showing Diamonds were issued by Southwest Africa in 1961-62, and South Africa in 1965.

Twice Belgium featured Diamonds. A handicrafts issue included a Diamond in 1960. In 1965, a commemorative stamp featured a woman’s hand with a large round Diamond on one finger and a huge pear-shaped Diamond held between two fingers. The latter was issued to publicize Diamontexpo, a Diamond exposition held in Antwerp July 10-28, 1965. In 1954, France linked jewelry with goldsmith’s work on a stamp. In 1966, Dahomey featured jewelry, as Czechoslovakia had done in 1956 and 1965. The first of the Czech stamps marked that country’s second 5-year plan, the other publicized a costume jewelry exhibit at Jablonec.

Israel has not emphasized minerals on its stamps, but in 1968 it did issue one high value airmail stamp with a large faceted diamond to celebrate its important export trade in cut stones. The same set also included postage stamps as a major Israeli export. Earlier postal issues in Israel showed ancient glass vessels from the 1st to 3rd centuries A.D., a bronze panther of the 1st century B.C., a gold calf’s head earring of Ashdod from the 6th to 4th centuries B.C., and a gold ram’s head drinking horn of Persia from the 5th century B.C. Such archaeological treasures are becoming more common in philatelics. The collector of minerals on postage stamps may include them, if he chooses, as examples of ancient metals.

Russia, too, depicted its ancient treasures on postage stamps. In 1964, one issue showing items from the Kremlin Museum included a helmet, a saddle, a jeweled fur crown, a gold ladle, and a bowl. Two years later, the USSR presented treasures from the Hermitage Museum in Leningrad; a 6th century B.C golden stag from Scythia, a Persian silver jug, and a Malachite vase from the Urals.

The above indicates how far governments have gone in celebrating their minerals and mineral wealth on their postage stamps. Collectors who limit themselves to the mineral area have only the Geology Unit of the American Topical Association to guide them. This Geology Unit has been dubbed Geolately or Geo-Philately. Whatever it may be called, it covers minerals, waterfalls, volcanoes and the oil industry.

So, minerals available on postage stamps are relatively few. However, the increased worldwide interest in minerals will undoubtedly influence many governments, including perhaps our own, to pay more attention to the design possibilities for their postal issues.

Intarsia

What Is Intarsia?
(via Gem Cutting: A Lapidary’s Manual) John Sinkankas writes:

The ancient art of imbedding small bits of colored material in cement to cover and decorate walls, floors, and other surfaces is called mosaic. Mosaic work using gemstones is popular among amateur gem cutters since it is both decorative and utilitarian. Surplus gem material can be used to advantage in ordinary mosaics, while exceptionally fine mosaic projects can absorb better material that is too small or not quite good enough for cabochons or faceted gems.

A variation of classic mosaic work is called intarsia, or sometimes pietre dure, or Florentine mosaic work. In this style of mosaic, flat pieces of stone are fitted together as closely as possible to make designs and pictures, much as pieces of glass are joined to make stained glass windows. However, intarsia is never transparent; pieces are always cemented to a base of stone, wood or other hard material. Some kinds of intarsia are inlaid into stone panels, which are then flattened to a common level and polished.

The beauty and effectiveness of intarsia depend on the skill used in making designs and selecting various kinds of stone to cover areas of different color and textures. The Italian method of inlaying intarsia is to carve out flat-bottomed recesses in soft slate to receive thin slabs of gem material (cut based on a paper pattern). The edges of the recesses are carefully trimmed to make them square and to avoid unsightly chipping. Since black slate is used, it is not necessary to try for a very exact fit because any slight gaps will be filled with an asphaltic mastic cement that matches the slate color. A truly perfect polish is not practical with this method because the heat generated will make the mastic flow and allow sections of stone to shift. However, a well-moistened pitch lap should overcome these difficulties and allow application of an excellent natural polish.

How To Separate Frequently Encountered Fancy Colored Diamonds From Imitations

- Visual observation: (10x lens) Look for color, luster, cut, doublet/triplet junctions, if any.

- Determine optic character: Single refractive (SR) / Double refractive (DR) / Anomalous Double refractive (ADR) / Aggregate (AGG).

- Spectrum: Many stones may have diagnostic spectrum.

- Microscope: Inclusions may be diagnostic, but look for inclusions that differentiate natural and synthetic, doublet / triplet.

- Fluorescence: Look under shortwave and longwave for diagnostic colors.

- Immersion cell: Use immersion cell and high refractive index liquid to separate doublets/triplets.

- Refractometer: Confirm spectroscope reading with refractometer.

The fancy colored stones, which may resemble one another in appearance and values, are:

Diamond

- Hardness: 10
- Specific gravity: 3.52
- Refractive index: 2.42
- Optic sign: SR/ADR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: negative refractive index, dispersion, luster, look at the girdle plane; cleavage, inclusions, weak to strong fluorescence in long wave (may be inert). Diamonds may be treated. Sapphire, synthetic sapphire, spinel, synthetic spinel, zircon, synthetic rutile, synthetic yttrium aluminum garnet (YAG), synthetic gadolium gallium garnet (GGG), synthetic strontium titanate, synthetic cubic zircona (CZ), topaz, quartz, demantoid garnet, sphene, and glass may look like diamond. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments / identify the stones.

Synthetic cubic zirconia

- Hardness: 8.5
- Specific gravity: 5.60 – 6.0
- Refractive index: 2.15 – 2.18 (average)
- Optic sign: SR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: color, negative refractive index, dispersion, luster, orange flash on the pavilion, girdle, inclusions, fluorescence. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.

Synthetic strontium titanate

- Hardness: 5.5
- Specific gravity: 5.13
- Refractive index: 2.41
- Optic sign: SR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: color, negative refractive index, dispersion, luster, girdle, inclusions, fluorescence, rounded facet edges. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.

Synthetic gadolium gallium garnet (GGG)

- Hardness: 6.5
- Specific gravity: 7.05
- Refractive index: 1.97
- Optic sign: SR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: color, negative refractive index, dispersion, luster, girdle, color, inclusions, fluorescence (strong orange yellow (LW) and yellow (SW)), rounded facet edges. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.

Synthetic yttrium aluminum garnet (YAG)

- Hardness: 8.5
- Specific gravity: 4.58
- Refractive index: 1.83
- Optic sign: SR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: color, negative refractive index, dispersion, luster, girdle, inclusions, fluorescence (variable). Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.

Synthetic rutile

- Hardness: 6.5
- Specific gravity: 4.25
- Refractive index: 2.61 – 2.90
- Optic sign: Uniaxial positive
- Birefringence: DR; 0.287
- Other points: color, negative refractive index, strong dispersion, luster, doubling of back facets, inclusions, rounded facet edges. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.

Demantoid garnet

- Hardness: 6.5
- Specific gravity: 3.85
- Refractive index: 1.89
- Optic sign: SR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: color, negative refractive index reading, dispersion. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.

Zircon

- Hardness: 7.5
- Specific gravity: 4.69
- Refractive index: 1.93 -1.99
- Optic sign: Uniaxial positive
- Birefringence: DR; 0.059
- Other points: color, dispersion, negative refractive index, luster, inclusions, doubling of back facets, spectrum. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.

Sphene

- Hardness: 5.5
- Specific gravity: 3.53
- Refractive index: 1.89 – 2.02
- Optic sign: Biaxial positive
- Birefringence: DR; 0.13
- Other points: color, dispersion, negative refractive index, luster, inclusions, doubling of back facets, spectrum. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.

Benitoite

- Hardness: 6.5
- Specific gravity: 3.67
- Refractive index: 1.76 – 1.80
- Optic sign: Uniaxial positive
- Birefringence: DR; 0.047
- Other points: Color, inclusions, fluorescence, spectrum, dispersion. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.

The Colored Stone Story

What are colored stones?
Colored stones refer to any gem other than diamond. Some diamonds are colored, but colored diamonds are not considered colored stones.

What are the attributes of colored stones?
A colored stone possesses any of these three key characteristics: beauty, durability and rarity. An ideal colored stone has all three characteristics.

Why do colored stones look the way they do?
A number of factors contribute to the overall appearance of colored stones. These include color, transparency, lustre, brilliance, dispersion, scintillation, clarity and cut.

What is the difference between precious stones and semi-precious stones?
In the past, the term ‘precious stone’ referred to diamond, emerald, ruby and sapphire, while ‘semi-precious stone’ were anything other than these. Then, precious and semi-precious stones indicated relative value – the former being more valuable. Today, these descriptions have little meaning in terms of value, since all colored stones come in a variety of qualities. For example, a low quality ruby may sell for as little as USD1 per carat, while a good quality demantoid garnet may fetch USD1,000 per carat.

Are colored stones durable?
In order to wear well and retain attractiveness colored stones should be durable. Durability includes hardness and toughness. Resistance to scratching is referred to as hardness. Some colored stones are soft and may be easily scratched, thereby losing their attractiveness. Ideally a colored stone should be harder than dust particles, which may be fine particles of quartz (hardness=7) found in the air. Colored stones with hardness greater than quartz include ruby, sapphire, topaz, tourmaline, spinel and garnet. These are the most valuable. Resistance to breakage is referred to as toughness, and this depends on colored stone’s structure. Extremely tough gems are usually aggregates such as jadeite and nephrite.

Is there a relationship between quality and price?
In a perfect world price would directly relate to quality, weight and rarity. The real world is far from perfect. Market factors may have an impact on prices, as does quality.

What is colored stone treatment?
Colored stone treatment is a common term. It describes different ways to improve the beauty of colored stones. Colored stones have been enhanced for thousands of years. The truth is there isn’t enough top quality colored stones being mined to meet demand. Enhancement increases supply, ensuring a constant flow of colored stones which we can afford and enjoy. If in doubt about a colored stone, always consult a reputed gem testing laboratory.

Werner Spaltenstein

Dark Continent

Gill Baker writes:

Madagascar is home to some of the world’s richest untapped seams of pink sapphires, and as regular multicolour.com visitors will know, pink sapphires are among the hottest colored gemstones to hit the market in recent years. Here at multicolour.com, one very extraordinary man is the linchpin in a fascinating story, which links you, our beautiful stones and the magical, mysterious Dark Continent of Africa.

Werner Spaltenstein is our very own Indiana Jones, with a passion and zest – some say an obsession – for gems, which makes him among the most successful buyers of colored stones in the world. As a young man growing up in Switzerland, Werner absorbed himself in travel and adventure books, and soon his urge to travel the world was hooked. Little did he know that the call of the wild would lead him into a lifelong adventure peppered with terrifying airplane crashes, muggings, endless treks to remote corners of Africa, and journeys spanning the globe in search of his precious quests.

“I'm one of the last adventurers. In the future they won’t exist like me anyone,” he chuckled, recounting the numerous close encounters with the bandits and other dangers that are an everyday hazard for gem buyers. “To survive a plane crash, that makes me a tough guy,” he added with a grin, adding that in his business the priority was staying alive, and he really did not think too far ahead.

While multicolour.com is at the forefront of the internet revolution, the stones on its website must still be tracked down, gleaned from the earth’s crust, and cut by skilled craftsmen in a traditional process which has changed little in centuries.

“You could never do what I am doing by computer,” remarked Werner. Finding, mining and buying gemstones may be an age-old business, but competition is cutthroat, and only the most determined, such as Werner, succeed. So what is the secret of Werner's success as a buyer?

“The different elements have to come together. It’s not only one person, it is a whole chain, and without that element it wouldn't work,” he explained, adding: “I'm only one link in the chain. Without the other partners it would not work.” Part of Werner’s skill is, knowing exactly what price to pay for any given stone – a talent honed from years of experience examining thousands upon thousands of gems. But Werner also has a little something extra which sets him apart from most of his rivals; he has a feel – some say a sixth sense – of the value of a stone.

“It’s easy to buy expensive and impossible to buy too cheap. You have to get to know exactly how much to pay,” he said with the sparkle of a man with a renowned eye for a bargain. His obsession with buying also gives him another edge over his competitors, who are compelled to delegate in order to cover all the myriad sources. Werner refuses to do that.

“It has to do with the confidence of the people who are selling me the stones,” he explained. The bright-eyed Swiss man spends much of his time in Madagascar – the huge island nation in the Indian Ocean off the east coast of Africa where he has built up the trust of local people who now rely on him to offer a tough, but fair price for their finds.

“I'm not trying to buy really very cheap because it is bad for my reputation. If I offer them a fair price, many people get more than they expect,” he said. A sense of value is clearly key to Werner’s work, but experience has also been vital to that, and as with many professions, “the secret is to work very hard,” he said.

Indeed, when he is in a mining area, he will work relentless from 7am to 9pm, quickly but methodically examining gemstone after gemstone presented to him by an eager queue of Africans, and then working late into the night to sort his day’s purchases.

“If someone wants to copy me, they can’t – it's never the same,” he said. His job is made harder by the need to keep track of the changes in market valuations of gemstones in markets, which can be quite volatile for some types of stones.

“It’s a continuous process and the market also changes. It’s a little bit like sport,” he quipped. But he added: “It’s a very brainy sport because every stone is different and every stone has a different price. It's got to fit the mesh, like a picture.”

Indeed sport is the key to what drives the intriguing Mr Spaltenstein – his surname means “stone splitter” in German. He is a man of simple tastes, with no desire for the trappings of wealth; neither is he searching for the biggest or brightest gems in the world.

“My objective is to be a good buyer. If I am very correct with my estimations there is a satisfaction,” he admits, adding that he may make one or two mistakes on price out of a hundred purchases, where others may fall down on ten percent of occasions. Whilst Madagascar is currently the focus of Werner’s work, he has also spent much time in Tanzania and Kenya, and regularly shuttles back and forth to the gem dealing and cutting centers of Thailand. He is under no illusions about the dangers of his work, however.

“I have a very interesting job. I hope I survive – I am doing a very dangerous job,” he admits, with a glint in his eye. Given the precarious value of Madagascar currency exchange rates, he must transport 40kg of local money across the country in order to buy 7kg of stones, and his ability to inject capital into the economy has helped give Werner a buying edge, and benefited ordinary Africans in a very direct way.

“Except for brokers and small merchants, no one has money. They are living from hand to mouth,” said Werner. He is at the coal–face of the gem business – a go-between bridging the African nations, which have little inherent use for gemstones, and the West, which prizes their precious jewels. Werne's happy position enables an African to buy land, or perhaps treasured oxen – a traditional symbol of wealth, while at the same time supplying Americans and Europeans with their own traditional symbols of riches, gems.

“It’s a real gold rush here,” he said. “I may have 100 or 200 people selling to me. It doesn't matter if they are rich or poor; anyone can show me their stones and gets a fair offer. If someone has the luck to find a good stone he should get a good price.” Buying is Werner’s life, and he admits he had no patience for selling.

“Selling is a very slow process,” he explains. He is no sentimental about his acquisitions, but he concedes he is attached to the knowledge of the market associated with them, hence the need to keep track of their resale in order to hone his valuations.

“It’s just got to do with whether I was right with my estimation. I try to be as good as possible, and that’s why I need that feedback on supply and demand,” he said. Being aware of subtle changes in the market is crucial to the business. The price of tanzanite, for example, went up and down every year for quite a whole. I miscalculated a little bit on the tanzanite. It was very expensive, the price came down, I bought it, we made very good business: then the production and demand fluctuated around US$250, and then went down to US$120. I was buying again and it went down to US$80 and it backfired. Now its’ US$300–US$400. That is the most unpredictable stone as the supply is so limited.”

And as Werner adds: “Everything depends on the supply, and I don't know what they are going to find in the future.”

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