- Visual observation: (10x lens) Look for color, luster, cut, doublet/triplet junctions, if any.
- Determine optic character: Single refractive (SR) / Double refractive (DR) / Anomalous Double refractive (ADR) / Aggregate (AGG).
- Spectrum: Many red stones may have diagnostic spectrum.
- Microscope: Inclusions may be diagnostic, but look for inclusions that differentiate natural and synthetic, doublet / triplet.
- Dichroscope: Different cutting orientations of natural and synthetic corundum may be revealed by dichroscope.
- Fluorescence: Look under shortwave and longwave for diagnostic colors.
- Immersion cell: Use immersion cell and high refractive index liquid to separate doublets/triplets.
- Refractometer: Confirm spectroscope reading with refractometer.
The red stones, which may resemble one another in appearance and values, are:
Red Beryl
- Hardness: 7.5
- Specific gravity: 2.70 (average)
- Refractive index: 1.57 – 1.58
- Optic sign: Uniaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.006
- Other points: Inclusions, color. There are many treated stones in the gem market. Analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments.
Tourmaline
- Hardness: 7
- Specific gravity: 3.03
- Refractive index: 1.62 – 1.64
- Optic sign: Uniaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.018
- Other points: Inclusions, color, pleochroism. There are many treated stones in the gem market. Many gem quality tourmalines are relatively clean. Analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments.
Topaz
- Hardness: 8
- Specific gravity: 3.53
- Refractive index: 1.63 – 1.64
- Optic sign: Biaxial positive
- Birefringence: DR; 0.008
- Other points: Inclusions, color (pink stones may be confused for pink sapphires). There are many treated stones in the market. Most gem quality stones are relatively clean. Analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments.
Spinel
- Hardness: 8
- Specific gravity: 3.60
- Refractive index: 1.718
- Optic sign: SR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Inclusions, color, spectrum.
Garnet (pyrope)
- Hardness: 7.5
- Specific gravity: 3.78 (average)
- Refractive index: 1.75 (average)
- Optic sign: SR/ADR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Inclusions, color (may be confused for Thai ruby / synthetic ruby), spectrum.
Garnet (almandine)
- Hardness: 7.5
- Specific gravity: 4.10 (average)
- Refractive index: 1.78 (average)
- Optic sign: SR/ADR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Inclusions, color (may be confused for Thai ruby / synthetic ruby), spectrum.
Ruby
- Hardness: 9
- Specific gravity: 4 (average)
- Refractive index: 1.76 – 1.77 (average)
- Optic sign: Uniaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.008
- Other points: Inclusions, color, spectrum (use microscope to separate natural vs synthetic). There are many treated stones in the gem market. Analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments.
Synthetic Ruby
- Hardness: 9
- Specific gravity: 4 (average)
- Refractive index: 1.76 – 1.77 (average)
- Optic sign: Uniaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.008
- Other points: Inclusions, color, spectrum (use microscope to differentiate flux and hydrothermal). Gem quality stones are relatively clean.
Synthetic red cubic zirconia
- Hardness: 8.5
- Specific gravity: 5.65 +
- Refractive index: 2.15 +
- Optic sign: SR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: negative refractive index, luster, color, orange flash on the pavilion, dispersion. Gem quality stones are relatively clean.
Red Zircon
- Hardness: 7.5
- Specific gravity: 4.69
- Refractive index: 1.93 – 1.99
- Optic sign: Uniaxial positive
- Birefringence: DR; 0.059
- Other points: Inclusions, color, spectrum, doubling of the back facets, dispersion, luster, negative refractive index reading. There are many treated stones in the gem market. Analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments.
Red Diamond
- Hardness: 10
- Specific gravity: 3.52
- Refractive index: 2.42
- Optic sign: SR/ADR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Rare, negative refractive index reading, inclusions, luster, spectrum, dispersion. There are many treated stones in the market. Most treated diamonds are relatively clean. Analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments.
Synthetic red diamond
- Hardness: 10
- Specific gravity: 3.52
- Refractive index: 2.42
- Optic sign: SR/ADR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Negative refractive index reading, color, inclusions, luster, spectrum, fluorescence. Synthetic diamonds are produced by the high pressure high temperature method. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Glass
- Hardness: 5.5
- Specific gravity: 3.70
- Refractive index: 1.60 – 1.66
- Optic sign: SR/ADR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Soft, inclusions (gas bubbles), color.
Assembled Stones
Doublets / Triplets
Corundum (natural crown / synthetic base)
Other points: Immersion (Look for differences in color and luster between the sections).
Garnet topped doublet (glass)
- Refractive index: 1.76 +
- Optic sign: SR/ADR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Look for differences in color and luster between the sections, gas bubbles).
Synthetic spinel soude (spinel / spinel)
- Refractive index: 1.728
- Optic sign: SR/ADR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Look for differences in color and luster between the sections, gas bubbles).
Tuesday, January 16, 2007
How To Observe Fluorescence Under Ultraviolet Light
- Make observations in a darkened environment. Allow a few moments for your eyes to adjust to the darkness in order to be able to detect weak fluorescence.
- Place the stone (s) on a non-reflective background directly under the light source. In order to be sure that the color noted is actually a fluorescent effect, and not a reflection of the Ultraviolet light source from the facets of the stone, always position the stone in several directions.
- Look for a dull powdery color on the surface of the stone (ignore color due to the surface reflection of visible light and from light leaking into the test unit). Record, in both long and short wave ultraviolet light, the reaction of the stone as Inert, Weak, or Strong fluorescence and note the color.
Note: If the stone fluoresces strongly, look for phosphorescence (after-glow).
- Observe the crown, pavilion and girdle of the stone, as it may be a doublet or a triplet.
- Place the stone (s) on a non-reflective background directly under the light source. In order to be sure that the color noted is actually a fluorescent effect, and not a reflection of the Ultraviolet light source from the facets of the stone, always position the stone in several directions.
- Look for a dull powdery color on the surface of the stone (ignore color due to the surface reflection of visible light and from light leaking into the test unit). Record, in both long and short wave ultraviolet light, the reaction of the stone as Inert, Weak, or Strong fluorescence and note the color.
Note: If the stone fluoresces strongly, look for phosphorescence (after-glow).
- Observe the crown, pavilion and girdle of the stone, as it may be a doublet or a triplet.
Trapiche Emerald
Trapiche emeralds consist of emerald crystals which contain inclusions of a mixture of albite feldspar and beryl. These inclusions radiate out from a hexagonal core to form a six spoke pattern.
Trapiche emeralds are unique to the Colombian deposits, but similar crystals have been found in Brazil and elsewhere. Trapiche is the Spanish word for cog wheels once used to crush sugarcane. If certain types of trapiche emeralds are cut as cabochons with the base perpendicular to the crystallographic axis of the crystal, a hexagonal chatoyancy may be seen. It is due to fibrous inclusions contained in each of the six spokes that radiate outward from the core.
Trapiche emeralds are unique to the Colombian deposits, but similar crystals have been found in Brazil and elsewhere. Trapiche is the Spanish word for cog wheels once used to crush sugarcane. If certain types of trapiche emeralds are cut as cabochons with the base perpendicular to the crystallographic axis of the crystal, a hexagonal chatoyancy may be seen. It is due to fibrous inclusions contained in each of the six spokes that radiate outward from the core.
Natural Diamonds Face Competition From Synthetic
Times News Network writes:
While the gems and jewellery industry is preparing itself to take on the Chinese dragon, the problem of synthetic diamonds making steady in-roads lurks beneath the shiny surface of the industry.
“India is a price sensitive market and synthetic diamonds could give competition to natural diamonds over the next decade,” said Ronald Lorie, CEO of International Gemological Institute (IGI).
Synthetic or cultured diamonds are laboratory-created diamonds that have the same chemical, optical and physical characteristics as mined diamonds. The two are literally indistinguishable to the naked eyes.
The IGI’s Mumbai Gemological laboratory receive close to three to four synthetic diamonds of yellowish orange colour every week, which are easily identifiable. But it is not the case with white synthetic diamonds, which look very similar to original diamonds, admits Mr Lorie.
Even the recently published KPMG report on the industry speaks broadly about the emergence of synthetic diamonds as a commercially viable alternative posing a new challenge for the world’s diamond industry. There is a dual threat to the natural diamond industry — threat of substitution and deception impacting consumer confidence and the threat of changing consumer preference, said the report.
The KPMG has estimated the current value of synthetic at wholesale to be close to $50 million and expects the market to grow at a CAGR of 45% over the next 10 years. Giving the current situation the sale of synthetic diamonds jewellery is likely to cross $2 billion by 2015 at wholesale against the sale of natural diamond jewellery sales of $6 billion at the retail level.
With the view to inform and protect the consumers and the industry, the IGI has started grading the synthetic diamonds from January 1, 2007. IGI has been laser inscribing synthetic diamonds it grades this way with the words ‘laboratory-grown,’ said Mr Lorie.
Chandrakant Sanghvi, regional chairman of GJEPC said: “There is no threat to the industry at this moment.” But synthetic diamonds could replace the natural diamonds in jewellery due to its cheap value.”
Chuni Gajera owner of Laxmi Diamond said: “Synthetic diamond can give a stiff competition to natural diamonds. But synthetics are not being sold as real. Synthetics could gain momentum in the sale of jewellery.
More info @ http://economictimes.indiatimes.com/Markets/Commodities/Natural_diamonds_face_competition_from_synthetics_/articleshow/1144422.cms
While the gems and jewellery industry is preparing itself to take on the Chinese dragon, the problem of synthetic diamonds making steady in-roads lurks beneath the shiny surface of the industry.
“India is a price sensitive market and synthetic diamonds could give competition to natural diamonds over the next decade,” said Ronald Lorie, CEO of International Gemological Institute (IGI).
Synthetic or cultured diamonds are laboratory-created diamonds that have the same chemical, optical and physical characteristics as mined diamonds. The two are literally indistinguishable to the naked eyes.
The IGI’s Mumbai Gemological laboratory receive close to three to four synthetic diamonds of yellowish orange colour every week, which are easily identifiable. But it is not the case with white synthetic diamonds, which look very similar to original diamonds, admits Mr Lorie.
Even the recently published KPMG report on the industry speaks broadly about the emergence of synthetic diamonds as a commercially viable alternative posing a new challenge for the world’s diamond industry. There is a dual threat to the natural diamond industry — threat of substitution and deception impacting consumer confidence and the threat of changing consumer preference, said the report.
The KPMG has estimated the current value of synthetic at wholesale to be close to $50 million and expects the market to grow at a CAGR of 45% over the next 10 years. Giving the current situation the sale of synthetic diamonds jewellery is likely to cross $2 billion by 2015 at wholesale against the sale of natural diamond jewellery sales of $6 billion at the retail level.
With the view to inform and protect the consumers and the industry, the IGI has started grading the synthetic diamonds from January 1, 2007. IGI has been laser inscribing synthetic diamonds it grades this way with the words ‘laboratory-grown,’ said Mr Lorie.
Chandrakant Sanghvi, regional chairman of GJEPC said: “There is no threat to the industry at this moment.” But synthetic diamonds could replace the natural diamonds in jewellery due to its cheap value.”
Chuni Gajera owner of Laxmi Diamond said: “Synthetic diamond can give a stiff competition to natural diamonds. But synthetics are not being sold as real. Synthetics could gain momentum in the sale of jewellery.
More info @ http://economictimes.indiatimes.com/Markets/Commodities/Natural_diamonds_face_competition_from_synthetics_/articleshow/1144422.cms
How To Separate Frequently Encountered Red Stones
- Visual observation: (10x lens) Look for color, luster, cut, doublet/triplet junctions, if any.
- Determine optic character: Single refractive (SR) / Double refractive (DR) / Anomalous Double
refractive (ADR) / Aggregate (AGG).
- Spectrum: Many red stones may have diagnostic spectrum.
- Microscope: Inclusions may be diagnostic, but look for inclusions that differentiate natural and
synthetic, doublet / triplet.
- Dichroscope: Different cutting orientations of natural and synthetic corundum may be revealed
by dichroscope.
- Fluorescence: Look under shortwave and longwave for diagnostic colors.
- Immersion cell: Use immersion cell and high refractive index liquid to separate doublets/triplets.
- Refractometer: Confirm spectroscope reading with refractometer.
The red stones, which may resemble one another in appearance and values, are:
Red Beryl
- Hardness: 7.5
- Specific gravity: 2.70 (average)
- Refractive index: 1.57 – 1.58
- Optic sign: Uniaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.006
- Other points: Inclusions, color.
Tourmaline
- Hardness: 7
- Specific gravity: 3.03
- Refractive index: 1.62 – 1.64
- Optic sign: Uniaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.018
- Other points: Inclusions, color, pleochroism. There are many treated tourmalines in the gem market. Many
gem quality tourmalines are relatively clean. Analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments.
Topaz
- Hardness: 8
- Specific gravity: 3.53
- Refractive index: 1.63 – 1.64
- Optic sign: Biaxial positive
- Birefringence: DR; 0.008
- Other points: Inclusions, color (pink stones may be confused for pink sapphires). There are many treated
topaz in the market. Most gem quality stones are relatively clean. Analytical techniques may be required
to detect treatments.
Spinel
- Hardness: 8
- Specific gravity: 3.60
- Refractive index: 1.718
- Optic sign: SR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Inclusions, color, spectrum.
Garnet (pyrope)
- Hardness: 7.5
- Specific gravity: 3.78 (average)
- Refractive index: 1.75 (average)
- Optic sign: SR/ADR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Inclusions, color (may be confused for Thai ruby / synthetic ruby), spectrum.
Garnet (almandine)
- Hardness: 7.5
- Specific gravity: 4.10 (average)
- Refractive index: 1.78 (average)
- Optic sign: SR/ADR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Inclusions, color (may be confused for Thai ruby / synthetic ruby), spectrum.
Ruby
- Hardness: 9
- Specific gravity: 4 (average)
- Refractive index: 1.76 – 1.77 (average)
- Optic sign: Uniaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.008
- Other points: Inclusions, color, spectrum (use microscope to separate natural vs synthetic).
Synthetic Ruby
- Hardness: 9
- Specific gravity: 4 (average)
- Refractive index: 1.76 – 1.77 (average)
- Optic sign: Uniaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.008
- Other points: Inclusions, color, spectrum (use microscope to differentiate flux and hydrothermal).
Synthetic red cubic zirconia
- Hardness: 8.5
- Specific gravity: 5.65 +
- Refractive index: 2.15 +
- Optic sign: SR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: negative refractive index, luster, color, orange flash on the pavilion, dispersion.
Red Zircon
- Hardness: 7.5
- Specific gravity: 4.69
- Refractive index: 1.93 – 1.99
- Optic sign: Uniaxial positive
- Birefringence: DR; 0.059
- Other points: Inclusions, color, spectrum, doubling of the back facets, dispersion, luster, negative refractive
index reading.
Red Diamond
- Hardness: 10
- Specific gravity: 3.52
- Refractive index: 2.42
- Optic sign: SR/ADR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Rare, negative refractive index reading, inclusions, luster, spectrum, dispersion. There are
many treated diamonds in the market. Most treated diamonds are relatively clean. Analytical techniques
may be required to detect treatments.
Synthetic red diamond
- Hardness: 10
- Specific gravity: 3.52
- Refractive index: 2.42
- Optic sign: SR/ADR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Negative refractive index reading, color, inclusions, luster, spectrum, fluorescence. Synthetic
diamonds are produced by the high pressure high temperature method. Gem quality stones are relatively
clean. Analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Glass
- Hardness: 5.5
- Specific gravity: 3.70
- Refractive index: 1.60 – 1.66
- Optic sign: SR/ADR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Soft, inclusions (gas bubbles), color.
Assembled Stones
Doublets / Triplets
Corundum (natural crown / synthetic base)
Other points: Immersion (Look for differences in color and luster between the sections).
Garnet topped doublet (glass)
- Refractive index: 1.76 +
- Optic sign: SR/ADR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Look for differences in color and luster between the sections, gas bubbles).
Synthetic spinel soude (spinel / spinel)
- Refractive index: 1.728
- Optic sign: SR/ADR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Look for differences in color and luster between the sections, gas bubbles).
- Determine optic character: Single refractive (SR) / Double refractive (DR) / Anomalous Double
refractive (ADR) / Aggregate (AGG).
- Spectrum: Many red stones may have diagnostic spectrum.
- Microscope: Inclusions may be diagnostic, but look for inclusions that differentiate natural and
synthetic, doublet / triplet.
- Dichroscope: Different cutting orientations of natural and synthetic corundum may be revealed
by dichroscope.
- Fluorescence: Look under shortwave and longwave for diagnostic colors.
- Immersion cell: Use immersion cell and high refractive index liquid to separate doublets/triplets.
- Refractometer: Confirm spectroscope reading with refractometer.
The red stones, which may resemble one another in appearance and values, are:
Red Beryl
- Hardness: 7.5
- Specific gravity: 2.70 (average)
- Refractive index: 1.57 – 1.58
- Optic sign: Uniaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.006
- Other points: Inclusions, color.
Tourmaline
- Hardness: 7
- Specific gravity: 3.03
- Refractive index: 1.62 – 1.64
- Optic sign: Uniaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.018
- Other points: Inclusions, color, pleochroism. There are many treated tourmalines in the gem market. Many
gem quality tourmalines are relatively clean. Analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments.
Topaz
- Hardness: 8
- Specific gravity: 3.53
- Refractive index: 1.63 – 1.64
- Optic sign: Biaxial positive
- Birefringence: DR; 0.008
- Other points: Inclusions, color (pink stones may be confused for pink sapphires). There are many treated
topaz in the market. Most gem quality stones are relatively clean. Analytical techniques may be required
to detect treatments.
Spinel
- Hardness: 8
- Specific gravity: 3.60
- Refractive index: 1.718
- Optic sign: SR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Inclusions, color, spectrum.
Garnet (pyrope)
- Hardness: 7.5
- Specific gravity: 3.78 (average)
- Refractive index: 1.75 (average)
- Optic sign: SR/ADR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Inclusions, color (may be confused for Thai ruby / synthetic ruby), spectrum.
Garnet (almandine)
- Hardness: 7.5
- Specific gravity: 4.10 (average)
- Refractive index: 1.78 (average)
- Optic sign: SR/ADR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Inclusions, color (may be confused for Thai ruby / synthetic ruby), spectrum.
Ruby
- Hardness: 9
- Specific gravity: 4 (average)
- Refractive index: 1.76 – 1.77 (average)
- Optic sign: Uniaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.008
- Other points: Inclusions, color, spectrum (use microscope to separate natural vs synthetic).
Synthetic Ruby
- Hardness: 9
- Specific gravity: 4 (average)
- Refractive index: 1.76 – 1.77 (average)
- Optic sign: Uniaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.008
- Other points: Inclusions, color, spectrum (use microscope to differentiate flux and hydrothermal).
Synthetic red cubic zirconia
- Hardness: 8.5
- Specific gravity: 5.65 +
- Refractive index: 2.15 +
- Optic sign: SR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: negative refractive index, luster, color, orange flash on the pavilion, dispersion.
Red Zircon
- Hardness: 7.5
- Specific gravity: 4.69
- Refractive index: 1.93 – 1.99
- Optic sign: Uniaxial positive
- Birefringence: DR; 0.059
- Other points: Inclusions, color, spectrum, doubling of the back facets, dispersion, luster, negative refractive
index reading.
Red Diamond
- Hardness: 10
- Specific gravity: 3.52
- Refractive index: 2.42
- Optic sign: SR/ADR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Rare, negative refractive index reading, inclusions, luster, spectrum, dispersion. There are
many treated diamonds in the market. Most treated diamonds are relatively clean. Analytical techniques
may be required to detect treatments.
Synthetic red diamond
- Hardness: 10
- Specific gravity: 3.52
- Refractive index: 2.42
- Optic sign: SR/ADR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Negative refractive index reading, color, inclusions, luster, spectrum, fluorescence. Synthetic
diamonds are produced by the high pressure high temperature method. Gem quality stones are relatively
clean. Analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Glass
- Hardness: 5.5
- Specific gravity: 3.70
- Refractive index: 1.60 – 1.66
- Optic sign: SR/ADR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Soft, inclusions (gas bubbles), color.
Assembled Stones
Doublets / Triplets
Corundum (natural crown / synthetic base)
Other points: Immersion (Look for differences in color and luster between the sections).
Garnet topped doublet (glass)
- Refractive index: 1.76 +
- Optic sign: SR/ADR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Look for differences in color and luster between the sections, gas bubbles).
Synthetic spinel soude (spinel / spinel)
- Refractive index: 1.728
- Optic sign: SR/ADR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Look for differences in color and luster between the sections, gas bubbles).
Monday, January 15, 2007
Overweighing What Can Be Counted
Charles T Munger, Vice-Chairman of Berkshire Hathaway Corporation writes:
The late, great, Thomas Hunt Morgan, who was one of the greatest biologist who ever lived, when he got to Caltech, had a very interesting, extreme way of avoiding some mistakes from overcounting what could be measured, and undercounting what couldn't. At that time there were no computers and the computer substitute then available to science and engineering was the Frieden calculator, and Caltech was full of Frieden calculators. And Thomas Hunt Morgan banned the Frieden calculator from the biology department. And when they said, "What the hell are you doing, Mr Morgan?" He said, "Well, I am like a guy who is prospecting for gold along the banks of the Sacramento River in 1849. With a little intelligence, I can reach down and pick up big nuggets of gold. And as long as I can do that, I'm not going to let any people in my department waste scarce resources in placer mining." And that's the way Thomas Hunt Morgan got through life.
I have adopted the same technique. I haven't had to do any placer mining yet. And it begins to look like I'm going to get all the way through, as I had always hoped, without doing any of that damned placer mining. Of course if I were a physician, particularly an academic physician, I'd have to do the statistics, do the placer mining. But it's amazing what you can do in life without placer mining if you've got a few good mental tricks and just keep ragging the problems the way Thomas Hunt Morgan did.
The late, great, Thomas Hunt Morgan, who was one of the greatest biologist who ever lived, when he got to Caltech, had a very interesting, extreme way of avoiding some mistakes from overcounting what could be measured, and undercounting what couldn't. At that time there were no computers and the computer substitute then available to science and engineering was the Frieden calculator, and Caltech was full of Frieden calculators. And Thomas Hunt Morgan banned the Frieden calculator from the biology department. And when they said, "What the hell are you doing, Mr Morgan?" He said, "Well, I am like a guy who is prospecting for gold along the banks of the Sacramento River in 1849. With a little intelligence, I can reach down and pick up big nuggets of gold. And as long as I can do that, I'm not going to let any people in my department waste scarce resources in placer mining." And that's the way Thomas Hunt Morgan got through life.
I have adopted the same technique. I haven't had to do any placer mining yet. And it begins to look like I'm going to get all the way through, as I had always hoped, without doing any of that damned placer mining. Of course if I were a physician, particularly an academic physician, I'd have to do the statistics, do the placer mining. But it's amazing what you can do in life without placer mining if you've got a few good mental tricks and just keep ragging the problems the way Thomas Hunt Morgan did.
Diamond Cut: Escada Cut
The Escada cut is the creation of Pluczenik Group, the Antwerp-based master cutters and sightholders. The cut is trade marked and patented to the Pluczenik Group.
The Escada diamond jewelry concept is the result of innovative input from Italian luxury jewelry producer Crova and creative marketing by the De Beers Diamond Trading Company. The cut symbolizes the ever renewing cycle of 12 months of the year.
The cut is a 12-sided dodecagonal cut with unique geometry of facets. The 97-facet stones are difficult to cut. It requires the most advanced cutting techniques and technology.
All stones above 0.20carats will be identified with a laser inscription on the girdle and will be lab certified. The Escada logo will also appear on the shank of each ring.
The Escada Diamond Jewelry Collection is sold through Escada’s integrated distribution network at the company’s 365 stores in more than 50 countries and at high-end department stores.
The Escada diamond jewelry concept is the result of innovative input from Italian luxury jewelry producer Crova and creative marketing by the De Beers Diamond Trading Company. The cut symbolizes the ever renewing cycle of 12 months of the year.
The cut is a 12-sided dodecagonal cut with unique geometry of facets. The 97-facet stones are difficult to cut. It requires the most advanced cutting techniques and technology.
All stones above 0.20carats will be identified with a laser inscription on the girdle and will be lab certified. The Escada logo will also appear on the shank of each ring.
The Escada Diamond Jewelry Collection is sold through Escada’s integrated distribution network at the company’s 365 stores in more than 50 countries and at high-end department stores.
Cleaning Cubic Zirconia
Victor Epand writes:
The basic rule of jewelry care is to apply all lotions, make-up, hair spray, etc. first, then put on the jewelry. Pearls are especially susceptive to the solvents in hair sprays. In the reality of the jewelry business, I see people who refuse to remove rings and those who do so only once in a while. When we clean a customer's jewelry and inspect for wear and loose or missing stones, the jewelry most often needing repair is a ring that is "never" taken off the finger and cleaned by the owner.
Persistent dirt gets between the metal settings and the stones causing abrasive wear and eventually perhaps a loose stone. Everyday wear on the outside of stone settings may lead to lost stones, too. A regular home cleaning and good look at the jewelry will prevent most stone loses, allowing for repair or tightening before it is too late. It is not common to see really clean jewelry come into the shop. When we do, that jewelry is generally in much better condition than the dirty items.
Hand lotions and soap film are some of the more difficult materials to remove. With CZ stones, a clean stone is vital to keep the "sparkling diamond" look. Just a little lotion on the bottom of the stone will take away much of the visual life of the stone. Fortunately, CZ's are fairly hard and tough. Cleaning may be more aggressive than with stones like opal or pearls, for example.
Start by taking the ring off the finger long enough to clean it! Using a soft tooth brush and a warm to hot solution of a dishwashing detergent like Joy, brush as well as possible to remove the scum and lotion. Rinse well in warm water. Pat dry and take a look. If more cleaning is needed, soak the ring in hot tap water with about 1/3 detergent to 2/3 hot water.(The mix is not critical.) Then brush again.
The brush and even the end of a toothpick will not damage the stone. Do not use any abrasive cleansers. Most will not damage a CZ but will take the shine off the metal and might scratch some softer kinds of gemstones. Do not use toothpaste or similar stuff. Short of buying a small home sized ultrasonic cleaner, the detergent approach is one of the best for home use.
With CZ a little sudsy ammonia may be added and will greatly improve the cleaning speed and effectiveness. Don't use any ammonia cleaners with silver, turquoise or pearls. Ammonia will cause spots on sterling. Use enough ammonia to liven up the faint hearted and do have a window open and some air moving.
With regular cleaning, you "get to know" the jewelry and can spot worn metal and loose stones before a loss happens.
When you cannot get the dirt off, let the jewelry store clean and inspect the jewelry. Strong detergents in heated ultrasonic cleaners followed with high pressure steam cleaning will remove most all dirt. Soap scum takes a little longer but comes off ok.
CZ is hard enough to cut glass. Most faceted gemstones are hard enough to cut glass. However, dust in the air contains a lot of silica (think sand). Hand lotions will leave a film on jewelry for dust to stick to. Over time, this rock dust in the air will abrade metal settings and some softer gemstones. Keep the lotion off the jewelry if at all possible. Not only does lotion free jewelry sparkle and look better every day, it will wear longer, too.
Victor Epand is the owner of http://www.jewelrygift.biz
More info @ http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Victor_Epandhttp://ezinearticles.com/?Cleaning-Cubic-Zirconia&id=411891
The basic rule of jewelry care is to apply all lotions, make-up, hair spray, etc. first, then put on the jewelry. Pearls are especially susceptive to the solvents in hair sprays. In the reality of the jewelry business, I see people who refuse to remove rings and those who do so only once in a while. When we clean a customer's jewelry and inspect for wear and loose or missing stones, the jewelry most often needing repair is a ring that is "never" taken off the finger and cleaned by the owner.
Persistent dirt gets between the metal settings and the stones causing abrasive wear and eventually perhaps a loose stone. Everyday wear on the outside of stone settings may lead to lost stones, too. A regular home cleaning and good look at the jewelry will prevent most stone loses, allowing for repair or tightening before it is too late. It is not common to see really clean jewelry come into the shop. When we do, that jewelry is generally in much better condition than the dirty items.
Hand lotions and soap film are some of the more difficult materials to remove. With CZ stones, a clean stone is vital to keep the "sparkling diamond" look. Just a little lotion on the bottom of the stone will take away much of the visual life of the stone. Fortunately, CZ's are fairly hard and tough. Cleaning may be more aggressive than with stones like opal or pearls, for example.
Start by taking the ring off the finger long enough to clean it! Using a soft tooth brush and a warm to hot solution of a dishwashing detergent like Joy, brush as well as possible to remove the scum and lotion. Rinse well in warm water. Pat dry and take a look. If more cleaning is needed, soak the ring in hot tap water with about 1/3 detergent to 2/3 hot water.(The mix is not critical.) Then brush again.
The brush and even the end of a toothpick will not damage the stone. Do not use any abrasive cleansers. Most will not damage a CZ but will take the shine off the metal and might scratch some softer kinds of gemstones. Do not use toothpaste or similar stuff. Short of buying a small home sized ultrasonic cleaner, the detergent approach is one of the best for home use.
With CZ a little sudsy ammonia may be added and will greatly improve the cleaning speed and effectiveness. Don't use any ammonia cleaners with silver, turquoise or pearls. Ammonia will cause spots on sterling. Use enough ammonia to liven up the faint hearted and do have a window open and some air moving.
With regular cleaning, you "get to know" the jewelry and can spot worn metal and loose stones before a loss happens.
When you cannot get the dirt off, let the jewelry store clean and inspect the jewelry. Strong detergents in heated ultrasonic cleaners followed with high pressure steam cleaning will remove most all dirt. Soap scum takes a little longer but comes off ok.
CZ is hard enough to cut glass. Most faceted gemstones are hard enough to cut glass. However, dust in the air contains a lot of silica (think sand). Hand lotions will leave a film on jewelry for dust to stick to. Over time, this rock dust in the air will abrade metal settings and some softer gemstones. Keep the lotion off the jewelry if at all possible. Not only does lotion free jewelry sparkle and look better every day, it will wear longer, too.
Victor Epand is the owner of http://www.jewelrygift.biz
More info @ http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Victor_Epandhttp://ezinearticles.com/?Cleaning-Cubic-Zirconia&id=411891
Diamond Cut: Phoenix Cut
Phoenix cut is produced at Smolensk Production Corporation Kristall, which specializes in high-quality goods known worldwide as the ‘Russian make’. The design is based on emerald and princess cuts.
The Phoenix has 85 facets: 39 in the crown, 38 in the pavilion, and 8 facets composing the girdle. The majority of Phoenix cut diamond range from 0.50 to 2 carats.
The Phoenix cut was designed in 1993. The Phoenix cut concept is associated with the legendary Phoenix bird that revived itself from the ashes of a fatal fire.
Phoenix cut diamonds are sold through Smolensk Kristall's offices in Antwerp and Hong Kong.
The Phoenix has 85 facets: 39 in the crown, 38 in the pavilion, and 8 facets composing the girdle. The majority of Phoenix cut diamond range from 0.50 to 2 carats.
The Phoenix cut was designed in 1993. The Phoenix cut concept is associated with the legendary Phoenix bird that revived itself from the ashes of a fatal fire.
Phoenix cut diamonds are sold through Smolensk Kristall's offices in Antwerp and Hong Kong.
How To Make Money
Warren Edward Buffett, CEO, Berkshire Hathaway writes:
'John Maynard Keynes, whose brilliance as a practicing investor matched his brilliance in thought, wrote a letter to a business associate, F. C. Scott, on August 15, 1934 that says it all: 'As time goes on, I get more and more convinced that the right method in investment is to put fairly large sums into enterprises which one thinks one knows something about and in the management of which one thoroughly believes. It is a mistake to think that one limits one's risk by spreading too much between enterprises about which one knows little and has no reason for special confidence… One's knowledge and experience are definitely limited and there are seldom more than two or three enterprises at any given time in which I personally feel myself entitled to put full confidence.'
'John Maynard Keynes, whose brilliance as a practicing investor matched his brilliance in thought, wrote a letter to a business associate, F. C. Scott, on August 15, 1934 that says it all: 'As time goes on, I get more and more convinced that the right method in investment is to put fairly large sums into enterprises which one thinks one knows something about and in the management of which one thoroughly believes. It is a mistake to think that one limits one's risk by spreading too much between enterprises about which one knows little and has no reason for special confidence… One's knowledge and experience are definitely limited and there are seldom more than two or three enterprises at any given time in which I personally feel myself entitled to put full confidence.'
The Difference Between Real and Fake Jewelry
Victor Epand writes:
The law requires metal to be marked by the maker and the metal quality. For sterling, the mark will be either the numbers 925 (meaning 92.5 % silver, which is sterling) or a "sterling" stamp with the words. Near the clasp should have the mark, it would be at the end of the chain if anything. Sometimes the mark is on a little flat looking ring at the end of the chain, so check around.
Sterling silver will tarnish and on some people it tarnishes quickly due to body chemistry, but on others it may never tarnish. To keep tarnish from happening, sterling is very often plated with another metal to protect the sterling and keep the tarnish from happening. The plating will be a metal called "rhodium" which is very bright or another metal recently used on silver that looks more the color of silver. However, the chain can be sterling and still have the plate on the outside to prevent tarnish.
Other than that, the only real way to tell if something is sterling silver is to test it. For example, like an acid test done by a jeweler. Generally a test will cost some money, not a lot, but maybe not worth it, depending on what you paid for the chain. On a large heavy chain, the test might be worth it, but that's all up to you.
I suggest thinking about where you got the chain from and whether or not you got it from an established business. An established business would serve little purpose in selling anything fake for sterling silver. Always look for both a sterling marks and a stamp or symbol for the manufacture as I said before. Both of those marks should be there.
Here's some information on how to tell if the gold on your bracelet is really gold. The chlorine in bleach is dangerous to gold jewelry, so it's best not to test gold in bleach, or else you'll ruin your jewelry. Stress points like where the metal has been hammered, bent over stones in prongs, formed by chain making machines and the like are the most affected by chlorine. Soldered areas are sometimes affected by chlorine. White gold is most easily damaged but apparently this happens with yellow gold also at stress points in the metal.
Chlorine will cause a darkening on gold, but on yellow gold it looks almost like a very pale gray color. White gold reacts the same way but sometimes goes darker. This is the chlorine reacting to the metals in karat gold. All jewelry metal of 18k, 14k and 10k has other metals in the recipe when the metal is made. Pure gold is mixed with mostly silver and copper (with nickel or palladium with white gold) to make metal strong enough for jewelry.
The karat mark shows how much pure gold is in the mix. For instance, pure gold is called 24k. Now, 10k will have 10 parts pure gold and 14 parts of the other metals, all adding up to 24 part. 18k gold will be 18 parts pure gold and 6 parts other metals, all adding up to 24 parts. That is how it goes with karats.
Yellow gold is not as dangerously affected by chlorine in bleach and a good buffing should make it ok, that is, if it is really gold. The best way to see if it is real karat gold is to have it tested. That means an acid test or a test using one of the newer electronic gold testers some jewelers use. That is what I would recommend.
Victor Epand is the owner of http://www.jewelrygift.biz
More info @ http://ezinearticles.com/?The-Difference-Between-Real-and-Fake-Jewelry&id=411792
http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Victor_Epand
The law requires metal to be marked by the maker and the metal quality. For sterling, the mark will be either the numbers 925 (meaning 92.5 % silver, which is sterling) or a "sterling" stamp with the words. Near the clasp should have the mark, it would be at the end of the chain if anything. Sometimes the mark is on a little flat looking ring at the end of the chain, so check around.
Sterling silver will tarnish and on some people it tarnishes quickly due to body chemistry, but on others it may never tarnish. To keep tarnish from happening, sterling is very often plated with another metal to protect the sterling and keep the tarnish from happening. The plating will be a metal called "rhodium" which is very bright or another metal recently used on silver that looks more the color of silver. However, the chain can be sterling and still have the plate on the outside to prevent tarnish.
Other than that, the only real way to tell if something is sterling silver is to test it. For example, like an acid test done by a jeweler. Generally a test will cost some money, not a lot, but maybe not worth it, depending on what you paid for the chain. On a large heavy chain, the test might be worth it, but that's all up to you.
I suggest thinking about where you got the chain from and whether or not you got it from an established business. An established business would serve little purpose in selling anything fake for sterling silver. Always look for both a sterling marks and a stamp or symbol for the manufacture as I said before. Both of those marks should be there.
Here's some information on how to tell if the gold on your bracelet is really gold. The chlorine in bleach is dangerous to gold jewelry, so it's best not to test gold in bleach, or else you'll ruin your jewelry. Stress points like where the metal has been hammered, bent over stones in prongs, formed by chain making machines and the like are the most affected by chlorine. Soldered areas are sometimes affected by chlorine. White gold is most easily damaged but apparently this happens with yellow gold also at stress points in the metal.
Chlorine will cause a darkening on gold, but on yellow gold it looks almost like a very pale gray color. White gold reacts the same way but sometimes goes darker. This is the chlorine reacting to the metals in karat gold. All jewelry metal of 18k, 14k and 10k has other metals in the recipe when the metal is made. Pure gold is mixed with mostly silver and copper (with nickel or palladium with white gold) to make metal strong enough for jewelry.
The karat mark shows how much pure gold is in the mix. For instance, pure gold is called 24k. Now, 10k will have 10 parts pure gold and 14 parts of the other metals, all adding up to 24 part. 18k gold will be 18 parts pure gold and 6 parts other metals, all adding up to 24 parts. That is how it goes with karats.
Yellow gold is not as dangerously affected by chlorine in bleach and a good buffing should make it ok, that is, if it is really gold. The best way to see if it is real karat gold is to have it tested. That means an acid test or a test using one of the newer electronic gold testers some jewelers use. That is what I would recommend.
Victor Epand is the owner of http://www.jewelrygift.biz
More info @ http://ezinearticles.com/?The-Difference-Between-Real-and-Fake-Jewelry&id=411792
http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Victor_Epand
Friday, January 12, 2007
Diamond Cut: Christmas Tree
The Christmas Tree cut was developed about two decades ago by George Saltzman, New York. Rough triangular macle is polished with grooves depicting the branches of a pine tree. The stones are still being cut in limited quantities in Israel and Belgium.
Green or blue diamonds are desirable for this cut, the latter being a representation of a blue spruce tree. Off- color colored diamonds may be irradiated to achieve the desirable colors. Christmas tree cut is popular with Christmas tree farmers.
Green or blue diamonds are desirable for this cut, the latter being a representation of a blue spruce tree. Off- color colored diamonds may be irradiated to achieve the desirable colors. Christmas tree cut is popular with Christmas tree farmers.
A Quick Look At Jewelry Hallmark
David Foard writes:
British Hallmarks are the best in the world. Who says so, the rest of the World. Although to be fair, other countries have great hallmarks too, it is just that they are NOT so often seen.
A book on World Hallmarks for Gold or Silver items is a must for any serious collector or dealer, but they can be a little intimidating and time consuming. Is that mark a Cockerel or a Tree? Could it be made in Switzerland or Germany?
Thankfully for the rest of us, a small pocket book on UK Hallmarks is more than up to the task, coupled with that very useful plastic 10X eyeglass I keep on hinting for you to buy.
It will show you that the item has been tested and stamped, to prove it is - what it says it is (9ct or 18ct etc). British Jewelry with a full UKHM (United Kingdom Hall Mark) is generally clearly stamped and readable after you clean it (check the website below for another complimentary article on 'How to Clean your Jewelry at Home').
Once you are aware of the marks, you will always feel just that little bit better when you buy that 'Could it be an Antique?' item at the local market, or from the guy in the Pub that everyone talks about but nobody knows. Buyer Beware....
*Six marks on British Jewelry.*
Yes... Six?
# 1: The Maker's Mark (Usually some initials). Not all that important for everyday items, unless you want to collect Jewelry from one maker. Silver collectors may want to buy items from say, Bateman (I should be so lucky).
# 2: The second stamp is the Assay Office mark or 'Mark of Origin'. It tells you where the item came from. The most common is the LONDON Hallmark. A Leopard's Head.
Sometimes this has a crown on the Leopard's Head (until circa 1821). Modern items do NOT have a crown on the Leopard Stamp.
The other most common Assay Office marks are from Birmingham (an Anchor). Once there were many Assay offices around Great Britain and Ireland, the Chester mark for instance. Now there are just three offices left in England, Sheffield being the last using a 'Rose' on gold Jewelry (DO NOT CONFUSE THIS WITH 'ROSE GOLD' JEWELRY) as that is a color, not a mark.
In Scotland there is Edinburgh, while in Ireland there is Dublin. Pity the poor Welsh are left out again!
# 3: The next is the Assay Quality mark and is shown as the 'Lion Passant' (which means 'looking ahead') and is a guarantee of quality. This was later changed to a 'CROWN' mark with a stamp showing the quality of Gold.... 9ct or 18ct etc.
# 4: Finally, and possibly the most important mark, was the Date letter mark. It changed each year so we can tell when the item was made.
Occasionally there is an extra mark.
# 5: An example was the Queen's Silver Jubilee in 1977.
Suffice to say if you see a Brooch with four or five marks and one of them is an Anchor with an 18 next to it and a letter 'C' next to that.... It's a safe bet it was made in Birmingham in 1927, or was that 1952, or 1902, or, or, or.....
Buyer Beware the man in the Pub.
As with most Jewelry items though, our advise has always been to buy the best QUALITY you can afford from a reputable dealer who will guarantee it.
Other than that, your plastic 10X eyeglass sure helps a lot....
David Foard has spent over 30 years in the Antique Jewelry Trade as a qualified gemologist and member of the Valuers Council.
More info @ http://www.jewellery-antiques.com
http://ezinearticles.com/?A-Quick-Look-at-Jewelry-Hallmarks&id=72739
http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=David_Foard
British Hallmarks are the best in the world. Who says so, the rest of the World. Although to be fair, other countries have great hallmarks too, it is just that they are NOT so often seen.
A book on World Hallmarks for Gold or Silver items is a must for any serious collector or dealer, but they can be a little intimidating and time consuming. Is that mark a Cockerel or a Tree? Could it be made in Switzerland or Germany?
Thankfully for the rest of us, a small pocket book on UK Hallmarks is more than up to the task, coupled with that very useful plastic 10X eyeglass I keep on hinting for you to buy.
It will show you that the item has been tested and stamped, to prove it is - what it says it is (9ct or 18ct etc). British Jewelry with a full UKHM (United Kingdom Hall Mark) is generally clearly stamped and readable after you clean it (check the website below for another complimentary article on 'How to Clean your Jewelry at Home').
Once you are aware of the marks, you will always feel just that little bit better when you buy that 'Could it be an Antique?' item at the local market, or from the guy in the Pub that everyone talks about but nobody knows. Buyer Beware....
*Six marks on British Jewelry.*
Yes... Six?
# 1: The Maker's Mark (Usually some initials). Not all that important for everyday items, unless you want to collect Jewelry from one maker. Silver collectors may want to buy items from say, Bateman (I should be so lucky).
# 2: The second stamp is the Assay Office mark or 'Mark of Origin'. It tells you where the item came from. The most common is the LONDON Hallmark. A Leopard's Head.
Sometimes this has a crown on the Leopard's Head (until circa 1821). Modern items do NOT have a crown on the Leopard Stamp.
The other most common Assay Office marks are from Birmingham (an Anchor). Once there were many Assay offices around Great Britain and Ireland, the Chester mark for instance. Now there are just three offices left in England, Sheffield being the last using a 'Rose' on gold Jewelry (DO NOT CONFUSE THIS WITH 'ROSE GOLD' JEWELRY) as that is a color, not a mark.
In Scotland there is Edinburgh, while in Ireland there is Dublin. Pity the poor Welsh are left out again!
# 3: The next is the Assay Quality mark and is shown as the 'Lion Passant' (which means 'looking ahead') and is a guarantee of quality. This was later changed to a 'CROWN' mark with a stamp showing the quality of Gold.... 9ct or 18ct etc.
# 4: Finally, and possibly the most important mark, was the Date letter mark. It changed each year so we can tell when the item was made.
Occasionally there is an extra mark.
# 5: An example was the Queen's Silver Jubilee in 1977.
Suffice to say if you see a Brooch with four or five marks and one of them is an Anchor with an 18 next to it and a letter 'C' next to that.... It's a safe bet it was made in Birmingham in 1927, or was that 1952, or 1902, or, or, or.....
Buyer Beware the man in the Pub.
As with most Jewelry items though, our advise has always been to buy the best QUALITY you can afford from a reputable dealer who will guarantee it.
Other than that, your plastic 10X eyeglass sure helps a lot....
David Foard has spent over 30 years in the Antique Jewelry Trade as a qualified gemologist and member of the Valuers Council.
More info @ http://www.jewellery-antiques.com
http://ezinearticles.com/?A-Quick-Look-at-Jewelry-Hallmarks&id=72739
http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=David_Foard
Amsterdam Sauer
Amsterdam Sauer writes:
Jules Roger Sauer, a French born from Alsace-Loraine, immigrated to Brazil, alone, in 1939, when he was just 18 years old.Although he could speak four languages, Portuguese was not among those he knew. Jules was very young and had no idea of which profession to pursue.After being introduced to some precious gems, he became immediately fascinated by them and decided to establish himself in the capital of the state of Minas Gerais, Belo Horizonte, which had the richest diversity of colored stones in the world at the time.Traveling in the vast and wild landscape of Minas Gerais, Jules first got involved in prospecting for diamonds . After a while, though, he realized the untapped future potential of the colored stones business. Armed with that knowledge, he began channeling his efforts at becoming an industry expert on colored gemstones.
With a minimal start-up capital of approximately ten thousand dollars, Jules founded his company in 1941. He named it Amsterdam Limited. The city of Amsterdam, Holland was the world’s benchmark for excellence in the cutting and trading of diamonds. Sauer also had wonderful memories and a tremendous admiration for the Dutch people.
In just a few years, Amsterdam Limited became an important Brazilian gemstone trading company, involved in mining, purchasing, cutting and wholesaling fine colored stones. The company mainly worked with aquamarines, tourmalines, imperial topazes, amethysts and citrines at the time.
Jules married Zilda in 1950 and the couple decided to move to Rio de Janeiro, the capital and the financial center of Brazil. There, the Sauer added jewelry manufacturing to the company’s list of business activities.The first retail store was inaugurated, in 1953, beside the famous Copacabana Palace Hotel. The store was initially named SAUER. Later, the company became a single entity named AMSTERDAM SAUER, as it is commonly known today.
Jules and Zilda built Amsterdam Sauer into the only 100% vertically integrated Brazilian company. From mining to retailing, Amsterdam Sauer controls every step of the jewelry production - never losing the focus on quality. Due to this precise expertise the company consistently displayed in the jewelry industry, it earned international recognition through its global clientele and various prestigious industry awards.
Amsterdam Sauer was the first South American Jeweler to be awarded, in 1966, the coveted De Beers - Diamond International Awards, with the Constellation Ring. The company holds a total of three De Beers - Diamond International Awards.
The emerald was only first discovered in Brazil in 1963. Jules Sauer was the pioneer in mining and marketing Brazilian emeralds. Again, Jules saw the great potential of this universal gemstone. He obtained the historical certification from the Gemological Institute of America for the Salininha Brazilian emeralds. Following this momentous event, the world began to recognize Brazil as a major producer of emeralds - a landmark and definitive turning point in the history of the Brazilian gemstone trade. Amsterdam Sauer evolved with these changes, becoming the most respected specialist on Brazilian and Colombian emeralds in South America.
Amsterdam Sauer is a modern company employing over 300 highly motivated associates, blending state of the art technology with traditional handcrafted techniques to meet the highest standards through its unique jewelry creations. The continued international success of the company is a direct result of the consistency of high quality products and services, unique expertise of fine gemstone jewelry and the personal dedication of its multilingual consultants for catering to a broad international clientele.
Independent from the business side, the Sauer family’s fascination for gemstones inspired the formation of its own private and rare gemstone collection over the past six decades. It is the most diversified in South America and is now available for public exhibition at the Amsterdam Sauer Museum in Rio de Janeiro. Parts of the collection may also be viewed at special displays in various Amsterdam Sauer stores.
The story and the quest of Jules Sauer and his family can also be found in the three books written by him;
Brazil Paradise of Gemstones – 1982
Emeralds Around the World – 1992
The Eras of the Diamond – 2002
Presently, Amsterdam Sauer has 25 retail stores in Brazil and representatives in larger cities around the globe. The company is managed by the second generation of the Sauer family. The Sauer third generation is already in the process of joining the group.
More info @ www.amsterdamsauer.com
Jules Roger Sauer, a French born from Alsace-Loraine, immigrated to Brazil, alone, in 1939, when he was just 18 years old.Although he could speak four languages, Portuguese was not among those he knew. Jules was very young and had no idea of which profession to pursue.After being introduced to some precious gems, he became immediately fascinated by them and decided to establish himself in the capital of the state of Minas Gerais, Belo Horizonte, which had the richest diversity of colored stones in the world at the time.Traveling in the vast and wild landscape of Minas Gerais, Jules first got involved in prospecting for diamonds . After a while, though, he realized the untapped future potential of the colored stones business. Armed with that knowledge, he began channeling his efforts at becoming an industry expert on colored gemstones.
With a minimal start-up capital of approximately ten thousand dollars, Jules founded his company in 1941. He named it Amsterdam Limited. The city of Amsterdam, Holland was the world’s benchmark for excellence in the cutting and trading of diamonds. Sauer also had wonderful memories and a tremendous admiration for the Dutch people.
In just a few years, Amsterdam Limited became an important Brazilian gemstone trading company, involved in mining, purchasing, cutting and wholesaling fine colored stones. The company mainly worked with aquamarines, tourmalines, imperial topazes, amethysts and citrines at the time.
Jules married Zilda in 1950 and the couple decided to move to Rio de Janeiro, the capital and the financial center of Brazil. There, the Sauer added jewelry manufacturing to the company’s list of business activities.The first retail store was inaugurated, in 1953, beside the famous Copacabana Palace Hotel. The store was initially named SAUER. Later, the company became a single entity named AMSTERDAM SAUER, as it is commonly known today.
Jules and Zilda built Amsterdam Sauer into the only 100% vertically integrated Brazilian company. From mining to retailing, Amsterdam Sauer controls every step of the jewelry production - never losing the focus on quality. Due to this precise expertise the company consistently displayed in the jewelry industry, it earned international recognition through its global clientele and various prestigious industry awards.
Amsterdam Sauer was the first South American Jeweler to be awarded, in 1966, the coveted De Beers - Diamond International Awards, with the Constellation Ring. The company holds a total of three De Beers - Diamond International Awards.
The emerald was only first discovered in Brazil in 1963. Jules Sauer was the pioneer in mining and marketing Brazilian emeralds. Again, Jules saw the great potential of this universal gemstone. He obtained the historical certification from the Gemological Institute of America for the Salininha Brazilian emeralds. Following this momentous event, the world began to recognize Brazil as a major producer of emeralds - a landmark and definitive turning point in the history of the Brazilian gemstone trade. Amsterdam Sauer evolved with these changes, becoming the most respected specialist on Brazilian and Colombian emeralds in South America.
Amsterdam Sauer is a modern company employing over 300 highly motivated associates, blending state of the art technology with traditional handcrafted techniques to meet the highest standards through its unique jewelry creations. The continued international success of the company is a direct result of the consistency of high quality products and services, unique expertise of fine gemstone jewelry and the personal dedication of its multilingual consultants for catering to a broad international clientele.
Independent from the business side, the Sauer family’s fascination for gemstones inspired the formation of its own private and rare gemstone collection over the past six decades. It is the most diversified in South America and is now available for public exhibition at the Amsterdam Sauer Museum in Rio de Janeiro. Parts of the collection may also be viewed at special displays in various Amsterdam Sauer stores.
The story and the quest of Jules Sauer and his family can also be found in the three books written by him;
Brazil Paradise of Gemstones – 1982
Emeralds Around the World – 1992
The Eras of the Diamond – 2002
Presently, Amsterdam Sauer has 25 retail stores in Brazil and representatives in larger cities around the globe. The company is managed by the second generation of the Sauer family. The Sauer third generation is already in the process of joining the group.
More info @ www.amsterdamsauer.com
Clinging To Failed Ideas
Charles T Munger, Vice-Chairman of Berkshire Hathaway Corporation writes:
I want to tell one more story demonstrating how awful it is to get a wrong idea from a limited repertoire and just stick to it. And this is the story of Hyman Liebowitz who came to America from the old country. In the new country, as in the old, he tried to make his way in the family trade, which was manufacturing nails. And he struggled, and finally his little nail business got to vast prosperity, and his wife said to him, "You are old, Hyman, it's time to go to Florida and turn the business over to our son."
So down he went to Florida, turning his business over to the son, but he got weekly financial reports. And he hadn't been in Florida very long before they turned sharply negative. In fact, they were terrible. So he got on an airplane and he went back to New Jersey, where the factory was. As he left the airport on the way to the factory he saw this enormous outdoor advertising sign lighting up. And there was Jesus, spread out on the cross. And under it was a big legend, "They Used Liebowitz's Nails." So he stormed into the factory and said, "You dumb son! What do you think you are doing? It took me 50 years to create this business!" "Papa," he said, "trust me. I will fix it."
So back he went to Florida, and while he was in Florida he got more reports, and the results kept getting worse. So he got on the airplane again. Left the airport, drove by the sign, looked up at this big lighted sign, and now there's a vacant cross. And, low and behold, Jesus is crumpled on the ground under the cross, and the sign said, "They Didn't Use Liebowitz's Nails."
Well, you can laugh at that. It is ridiculous but it's no more ridiculous than the way a lot of people cling to failed ideas. Keynes said, "It's not bringing in the new ideas that's so hard. It's getting rid of the old ones." And Einstein said it better, attributing his mental success to "curiosity, concentration, perserverance and self-criticism. By self-criticism he meant becoming good at destryoing your own best-loved and hardest-won ideas. If you can get really good at destryoing your own wrong ideas, that's a great gift.
I want to tell one more story demonstrating how awful it is to get a wrong idea from a limited repertoire and just stick to it. And this is the story of Hyman Liebowitz who came to America from the old country. In the new country, as in the old, he tried to make his way in the family trade, which was manufacturing nails. And he struggled, and finally his little nail business got to vast prosperity, and his wife said to him, "You are old, Hyman, it's time to go to Florida and turn the business over to our son."
So down he went to Florida, turning his business over to the son, but he got weekly financial reports. And he hadn't been in Florida very long before they turned sharply negative. In fact, they were terrible. So he got on an airplane and he went back to New Jersey, where the factory was. As he left the airport on the way to the factory he saw this enormous outdoor advertising sign lighting up. And there was Jesus, spread out on the cross. And under it was a big legend, "They Used Liebowitz's Nails." So he stormed into the factory and said, "You dumb son! What do you think you are doing? It took me 50 years to create this business!" "Papa," he said, "trust me. I will fix it."
So back he went to Florida, and while he was in Florida he got more reports, and the results kept getting worse. So he got on the airplane again. Left the airport, drove by the sign, looked up at this big lighted sign, and now there's a vacant cross. And, low and behold, Jesus is crumpled on the ground under the cross, and the sign said, "They Didn't Use Liebowitz's Nails."
Well, you can laugh at that. It is ridiculous but it's no more ridiculous than the way a lot of people cling to failed ideas. Keynes said, "It's not bringing in the new ideas that's so hard. It's getting rid of the old ones." And Einstein said it better, attributing his mental success to "curiosity, concentration, perserverance and self-criticism. By self-criticism he meant becoming good at destryoing your own best-loved and hardest-won ideas. If you can get really good at destryoing your own wrong ideas, that's a great gift.
Giant Size Top Color Clean Tsavorite Discovered in East Africa
(via) PR Web writes:
An exceptional gemstone, most likely the largest fine color clean tsavorite in the world was discovered near Arusha, Tanzania. The stone was found at the border of the original block B tanzanite mining area (Block B extension), at a depth of 160 meters. The area is locally known as Karo.
The uncut stone weighed 185 grams and was examined by Dr. H. Hanni of SSEF Swiss Gemmological Institute during a recent trip to Arusha. The stone was preformed and facetted at the Multicolour Gems office in Chantaburi and certified by Dr. A. Peretti at the GRS Gemresearch Swisslab in Bangkok. The impressive size and saturated color combined with remarkable clarity and transparency put this stone in a class of its own. According to Dr. A. Peretti's report, -- "One Magnificent Gemstone".
More info @ http://prweb.com/pingpr.php/UGlnZy1QaWdnLVByb2YtVGhpci1NYWduLVplcm8=
http://news.yahoo.com/s/prweb/20070107/bs_prweb/prweb495411
An exceptional gemstone, most likely the largest fine color clean tsavorite in the world was discovered near Arusha, Tanzania. The stone was found at the border of the original block B tanzanite mining area (Block B extension), at a depth of 160 meters. The area is locally known as Karo.
The uncut stone weighed 185 grams and was examined by Dr. H. Hanni of SSEF Swiss Gemmological Institute during a recent trip to Arusha. The stone was preformed and facetted at the Multicolour Gems office in Chantaburi and certified by Dr. A. Peretti at the GRS Gemresearch Swisslab in Bangkok. The impressive size and saturated color combined with remarkable clarity and transparency put this stone in a class of its own. According to Dr. A. Peretti's report, -- "One Magnificent Gemstone".
More info @ http://prweb.com/pingpr.php/UGlnZy1QaWdnLVByb2YtVGhpci1NYWduLVplcm8=
http://news.yahoo.com/s/prweb/20070107/bs_prweb/prweb495411
Running A Business
( via Fortune, April 11, 1988) Warren Edward Buffett, CEO, Berkshire Hathaway writes:
'Can you really explain to a fish what it's like to walk on land? One day on land is worth a thousand years of talking about it. And one day running a business has exactly the same kind of value.'
'Can you really explain to a fish what it's like to walk on land? One day on land is worth a thousand years of talking about it. And one day running a business has exactly the same kind of value.'
Thursday, January 11, 2007
How To Become A Diamond Sightholder
Rough diamonds are usually channeled through the CSO (Central Selling Organization)--a De Beers affiliate, from the mine to the cutting and polishing centers. The role of CSO has significantly changed and the system of single channel marketing has more or less become obsolete.
A sightholder may be a diamond manufacturer with large cutting facilities or rough diamond dealer, who may resell rough diamonds to small dealers, or Diamdel, a CSO affiliated rough trading company
Rough diamonds are sold ten times per year at gatherings in London known as sights. Attendance to sights is by invitation only. Buyers who attend the sights are known as sightholders. Sightholders go through a broker who acts as a mediator between the CSO and the sightholder. A 1% commission is paid by the sightholder to the broker based on the value of their sights. Most sights are approximately US$500000 to millions, in cash. The estimated time it takes for diamond to get from mine to producer is approximately 2.5 years.
The diamond pipeline is pretty much the same, but the role of the CSO has changed. It has subsequently been renamed the DTC (Diamond Trading Company).The new business strategy for DTC is to monitor the rough all the way through to retailing. The greatest value addition is between diamond manufacturing and retail sales, which has a mark up of more than 100 per cent. The DTC is now involved in diamond processing, jewelry manufacturing and marketing.
The new sightholder requirements are:
1. The sightholder must have solid financial standing and reliability.
2. The sightholder must have the ability to efficiently distribute diamonds to other dealers and manufacturers.
3. The sightholder must have the marketing ability on their own or together with retailers aimed at increasing consumer demand.
4. The sightholder must have a strong geographic market position.
5. The sightholder must endorse and comply with best practice policy (BPP).
6. The sightholder should not deal in synthetic diamonds.
7. The sightholder must have personal integrity and technical expertise with respect to particular diamonds.
A sightholder may be a diamond manufacturer with large cutting facilities or rough diamond dealer, who may resell rough diamonds to small dealers, or Diamdel, a CSO affiliated rough trading company
Rough diamonds are sold ten times per year at gatherings in London known as sights. Attendance to sights is by invitation only. Buyers who attend the sights are known as sightholders. Sightholders go through a broker who acts as a mediator between the CSO and the sightholder. A 1% commission is paid by the sightholder to the broker based on the value of their sights. Most sights are approximately US$500000 to millions, in cash. The estimated time it takes for diamond to get from mine to producer is approximately 2.5 years.
The diamond pipeline is pretty much the same, but the role of the CSO has changed. It has subsequently been renamed the DTC (Diamond Trading Company).The new business strategy for DTC is to monitor the rough all the way through to retailing. The greatest value addition is between diamond manufacturing and retail sales, which has a mark up of more than 100 per cent. The DTC is now involved in diamond processing, jewelry manufacturing and marketing.
The new sightholder requirements are:
1. The sightholder must have solid financial standing and reliability.
2. The sightholder must have the ability to efficiently distribute diamonds to other dealers and manufacturers.
3. The sightholder must have the marketing ability on their own or together with retailers aimed at increasing consumer demand.
4. The sightholder must have a strong geographic market position.
5. The sightholder must endorse and comply with best practice policy (BPP).
6. The sightholder should not deal in synthetic diamonds.
7. The sightholder must have personal integrity and technical expertise with respect to particular diamonds.
Diamond Cut: Buddha Cut
The Buddha cut, a diamond polished in the shape of a meditating Buddha, was co-designed in 1995 by a Buddhist member of the Japanese Soto Zen federation and Oliver Korn for J Korn & Partners. The name is a patent of Antwerp-based diamond manufacturer J Korn & Partners, which also holds a copyright on the shape. The Buddha cut is produced by Oliver Korn for J Korn & Partners.
The cut is perceived as a three-dimensional sculpture that fits well into jewelry. The Buddha, hand cut in Antwerp, is faceted like modern brilliant cuts with 33 crown facets, 21 pavilion facets and a culet. The girdle is also faceted. The different styles of Buddha cut diamonds have historical and regional significance. The Shakyamuni Buddha represents the historical Buddha of India. The Kwan Yin (China) or Kannon (Japan) represents the feminine form of Buddha. A third styling, the Thai representation of the Buddha is available by special order only.
Buddha diamonds are most commonly set as center stones for pendants and rings. Brooches and tiepins are also common uses. For religious reasons, they are not used as earrings.
The cut is perceived as a three-dimensional sculpture that fits well into jewelry. The Buddha, hand cut in Antwerp, is faceted like modern brilliant cuts with 33 crown facets, 21 pavilion facets and a culet. The girdle is also faceted. The different styles of Buddha cut diamonds have historical and regional significance. The Shakyamuni Buddha represents the historical Buddha of India. The Kwan Yin (China) or Kannon (Japan) represents the feminine form of Buddha. A third styling, the Thai representation of the Buddha is available by special order only.
Buddha diamonds are most commonly set as center stones for pendants and rings. Brooches and tiepins are also common uses. For religious reasons, they are not used as earrings.
Diamond Cut: Tycoon Cut
The Tycoon Cut™ was invented in 1999 by Toros Kejejian . The name Tycoon Cut is trademarked, and has been patented in both the US and internationally. Los Angles based Tycoon Jewelry is its sole distributor.
The cut is a rectangular mixed cut. It has 33 facets—nine on the crown and 24 making up the pavilion. The faceting of the crown is what makes the Tycoon Cut unique as the entire crown can be considered a nine facet table. The top center facet is in the shape of a diamond, making it the only diamond with a diamond on top.
The cut is a rectangular mixed cut. It has 33 facets—nine on the crown and 24 making up the pavilion. The faceting of the crown is what makes the Tycoon Cut unique as the entire crown can be considered a nine facet table. The top center facet is in the shape of a diamond, making it the only diamond with a diamond on top.
How To Judge Alexandrite (color change) Chrysoberyl
Color
- The primary consideration is the extent of color change. The most desirable color change is saturated ruby red (incandescent lighting) to saturated emerald green (day light or fluorescent light). Quite often the stones have color modifiers which may result in the reds having a purplish, and the greens a bluish secondary color.
- In most cases the saturation level of both hues is relatively low so stones that show colors of high intensity fetch higher premium.
Phenomenon
- The stone should display distinct change of color from an incandescent light source to a day light fluorescent one.
Clarity
- The clarity of the stone is a factor. Alexandrites may be heavily included; as long as the inclusions are not too distracting, the stone should be judged based on the unique color change.
Cut
- Alexandrites are usually faceted. If they a show a chatoyant phenomenon, they may be cut cabochon.
- The primary consideration is the extent of color change. The most desirable color change is saturated ruby red (incandescent lighting) to saturated emerald green (day light or fluorescent light). Quite often the stones have color modifiers which may result in the reds having a purplish, and the greens a bluish secondary color.
- In most cases the saturation level of both hues is relatively low so stones that show colors of high intensity fetch higher premium.
Phenomenon
- The stone should display distinct change of color from an incandescent light source to a day light fluorescent one.
Clarity
- The clarity of the stone is a factor. Alexandrites may be heavily included; as long as the inclusions are not too distracting, the stone should be judged based on the unique color change.
Cut
- Alexandrites are usually faceted. If they a show a chatoyant phenomenon, they may be cut cabochon.
Fiber Optic Technology
David R. Goff writes:
A Brief History of Fiber Optic Technology
Fiber optic technology experienced a phenomenal rate of progress in the second half of the twentieth century. Early success came during the 1950’s with the development of the fiberscope. This image-transmitting device, which used the first practical all-glass fiber, was concurrently devised by Brian O’Brien at the American Optical Company and Narinder Kapany (who first coined the term “fiber optics” in 1956) and colleagues at the Imperial College of Science and Technology in London. Early all-glass fibers experienced excessive optical loss, the loss of the light signal as it traveled the fiber, limiting transmission distances.
More info @ http://www.fiber-optics.info/fiber-history.htm
A Brief History of Fiber Optic Technology
Fiber optic technology experienced a phenomenal rate of progress in the second half of the twentieth century. Early success came during the 1950’s with the development of the fiberscope. This image-transmitting device, which used the first practical all-glass fiber, was concurrently devised by Brian O’Brien at the American Optical Company and Narinder Kapany (who first coined the term “fiber optics” in 1956) and colleagues at the Imperial College of Science and Technology in London. Early all-glass fibers experienced excessive optical loss, the loss of the light signal as it traveled the fiber, limiting transmission distances.
More info @ http://www.fiber-optics.info/fiber-history.htm
Raman Spectroscopy
Renishaw writes:
Users in research laboratories, development labs and production lines worldwide employ the microscopes and analysers in a diverse range of fields - for example, in the computer hard disc, pharmaceutical, polymer, semiconductor, and chemical industries. More exotic applications include the identification of drugs and explosives by forensic scientists, and the analysis of paint and pigments on historic works of art as an aid to accurate restoration.
Gemmologists are also using the Raman microscopes to identify gemstones, and to determine their source by analysing the tiny mineral inclusions contained within them.
Currently, there is much discussion in the gems community about a new heat-treatment for poor quality diamonds that changes their appearance to that of gem quality diamond. Fortunately, Renishaw Raman systems can reveal when this has occurred, ensuring that true diamond quality is maintained. Also, a variety of medical applications is being developed, one of the most notable being the detection of cancerous and pre-cancerous cells. In the near future, it is expected that small optical fibre probes and automated microscope systems will be used to acquire spectra from human tissue, allowing the rapid diagnosis of potential cancers as an outpatient procedure.
The capabilities of the instruments have been expanded to include a wider range of lasers, enhanced optical filtering systems, many new accessories, increased automation and improved software, making the instruments even easier to use. The number of applications will increase as Renishaw continues to develop new technologies in Raman spectroscopy.
More info @ http://www.renishaw.com/client/product/UKEnglish/PGP-37.shtml
Users in research laboratories, development labs and production lines worldwide employ the microscopes and analysers in a diverse range of fields - for example, in the computer hard disc, pharmaceutical, polymer, semiconductor, and chemical industries. More exotic applications include the identification of drugs and explosives by forensic scientists, and the analysis of paint and pigments on historic works of art as an aid to accurate restoration.
Gemmologists are also using the Raman microscopes to identify gemstones, and to determine their source by analysing the tiny mineral inclusions contained within them.
Currently, there is much discussion in the gems community about a new heat-treatment for poor quality diamonds that changes their appearance to that of gem quality diamond. Fortunately, Renishaw Raman systems can reveal when this has occurred, ensuring that true diamond quality is maintained. Also, a variety of medical applications is being developed, one of the most notable being the detection of cancerous and pre-cancerous cells. In the near future, it is expected that small optical fibre probes and automated microscope systems will be used to acquire spectra from human tissue, allowing the rapid diagnosis of potential cancers as an outpatient procedure.
The capabilities of the instruments have been expanded to include a wider range of lasers, enhanced optical filtering systems, many new accessories, increased automation and improved software, making the instruments even easier to use. The number of applications will increase as Renishaw continues to develop new technologies in Raman spectroscopy.
More info @ http://www.renishaw.com/client/product/UKEnglish/PGP-37.shtml
Wednesday, January 10, 2007
Bernd Munsteiner
Probably the most exciting development in gem cutting since the creation of the round brilliant is a style of gem cutting developed in the 1970's by Idar-Oberstein artist-craftsman extraordinaire, Bernd Munsteiner.
Today, Munsteiner's work has been widely copied and even mass produced. The generic style is known variously as the Munsteiner or Fantasy Cut. Stones display facets, but rather than being flat, they are arranged in v-shaped grooves somewhat similar to the striations on certain crystals. Combinations of flat facets and curved surfaces are also sometimes seen.
To know more about the Master cutter and jewelry designer, visit the following websites at:
www.khulsey.com/jewelry/atelier_munsteiner.html
www.munsteiner-cut.de
Today, Munsteiner's work has been widely copied and even mass produced. The generic style is known variously as the Munsteiner or Fantasy Cut. Stones display facets, but rather than being flat, they are arranged in v-shaped grooves somewhat similar to the striations on certain crystals. Combinations of flat facets and curved surfaces are also sometimes seen.
To know more about the Master cutter and jewelry designer, visit the following websites at:
www.khulsey.com/jewelry/atelier_munsteiner.html
www.munsteiner-cut.de
How To Judge Opal
Color
First of all, define the type of opal (black, semi-black, crystal, white, etc.) you are evaluating.
Questions to ask regarding color:
- Play-of-color and pattern of color (if applicable). What are the predominant colors? Reds, violets and oranges are more valuable than greens and blues. Red is the rarest, and if present, all other colors are possible. If blue is visible face-up, then other colors will not be possible. Also take into account the distribution, contrast and abundance of colors present.
- Grading opal patterns is quite subjective and may depend largely of the viewer's personal taste. Generally the more colors that appear to the viewer the more valuable the stone. Stones showing largely blue flash are least valuable.
-Pinfire, consisting of small dots of color is quite common, and not especially valuable, even if the predominant color is red.
-Flash refers to opals with color patterns that appear suddenly as the stone is moved.
-Harlequin refers to opals with a regular arrangement of similarly-sized flashes of color. The more regular the arrangement, the better. Stones showing the full range of colors in this pattern are exceedingly rare and valuable.
- Extinction : Does the full color range appear over a small viewing angle?
- In other words, is there an angle of extinction, during a 360x rotation, no colors are visible? Another way of describing this is directionality - the most valuable stones do not show any extinction of color.
- Brilliancy : How intense are the colors? Do they stand out from the background? How is the color distributed?
- Consider the amount of potch in comparison with the amount of play-of-color. Although potch provides a background for the play-of-color, we buy opal per carat, and so do not want to purchase opals with excessive amounts of potch (potch to play-of-color ratio).
- Sequence of colors : Red that holds over a wide range of viewing angles is the most desirable. In black opal, a red immediately followed by a royal blue is the rarest and most sought-after color sequence.
Practical Tip: Place the opal on a flat surface at arm's length; then rotate it through 360˚ noting the play-of-color, brilliance, and intensity of colors, symmetry and polish. Then hold the opal up to the light and estimate the ratio of potch to play-of-color.
Fine opals should show:
- Uniform play-of-color through 360º
- Intense, brilliant colors
- No 'extinction'
- Symmetrical cut, and fine degree of polish
Judge other opals from this ideal standpoint.
Clarity
Note the following:
- How transparent is the material? High transparency is sought after in light opal, but may reduce the value of black opal.
- Are any fragments of matrix present? Potch, fragments of host rock, sand or other impurities should not interrupt the play-of-color. Material should be free from blemishes visible from top.
- Are there any cracks and flaws visible? Precious opal can contain around 6-10% water and some opals from certain areas may craze, crack and/or turn opaque. Remember, never buy a cracked opal. The crack will only get worse as time passes.
Cut
In judging cut, look for the symmetry (proportions) and polish (finish). Is the make (cut and proportions) of the cabochon good? How good is the surface polish?
First of all, define the type of opal (black, semi-black, crystal, white, etc.) you are evaluating.
Questions to ask regarding color:
- Play-of-color and pattern of color (if applicable). What are the predominant colors? Reds, violets and oranges are more valuable than greens and blues. Red is the rarest, and if present, all other colors are possible. If blue is visible face-up, then other colors will not be possible. Also take into account the distribution, contrast and abundance of colors present.
- Grading opal patterns is quite subjective and may depend largely of the viewer's personal taste. Generally the more colors that appear to the viewer the more valuable the stone. Stones showing largely blue flash are least valuable.
-Pinfire, consisting of small dots of color is quite common, and not especially valuable, even if the predominant color is red.
-Flash refers to opals with color patterns that appear suddenly as the stone is moved.
-Harlequin refers to opals with a regular arrangement of similarly-sized flashes of color. The more regular the arrangement, the better. Stones showing the full range of colors in this pattern are exceedingly rare and valuable.
- Extinction : Does the full color range appear over a small viewing angle?
- In other words, is there an angle of extinction, during a 360x rotation, no colors are visible? Another way of describing this is directionality - the most valuable stones do not show any extinction of color.
- Brilliancy : How intense are the colors? Do they stand out from the background? How is the color distributed?
- Consider the amount of potch in comparison with the amount of play-of-color. Although potch provides a background for the play-of-color, we buy opal per carat, and so do not want to purchase opals with excessive amounts of potch (potch to play-of-color ratio).
- Sequence of colors : Red that holds over a wide range of viewing angles is the most desirable. In black opal, a red immediately followed by a royal blue is the rarest and most sought-after color sequence.
Practical Tip: Place the opal on a flat surface at arm's length; then rotate it through 360˚ noting the play-of-color, brilliance, and intensity of colors, symmetry and polish. Then hold the opal up to the light and estimate the ratio of potch to play-of-color.
Fine opals should show:
- Uniform play-of-color through 360º
- Intense, brilliant colors
- No 'extinction'
- Symmetrical cut, and fine degree of polish
Judge other opals from this ideal standpoint.
Clarity
Note the following:
- How transparent is the material? High transparency is sought after in light opal, but may reduce the value of black opal.
- Are any fragments of matrix present? Potch, fragments of host rock, sand or other impurities should not interrupt the play-of-color. Material should be free from blemishes visible from top.
- Are there any cracks and flaws visible? Precious opal can contain around 6-10% water and some opals from certain areas may craze, crack and/or turn opaque. Remember, never buy a cracked opal. The crack will only get worse as time passes.
Cut
In judging cut, look for the symmetry (proportions) and polish (finish). Is the make (cut and proportions) of the cabochon good? How good is the surface polish?
Tuesday, January 09, 2007
Refractometer
The instrument in general use for the measurement of refractive index is the refractometer. The refractometer determines the refractive index of a gemstone by using the principle of critical angle of total internal reflection, which is used to measure the refractive indices of various substances.
General information
- Refractive Index (RI) measurement is the most useful and accurate means of testing gemstones.
- It is convenient, non-destructive and relatively quick to carry out providing useful information.
Requirements
- Optical contact.
- Clean, polished surface.
- Contact liquid.
- Refractive index (RI) of the stone under test should be within the range of the instrument.
Limits
- Upper limit of the refractometer is determined by the refractive index of the prism as well as the refractive index of the contact fluid / medium.
- In a normal commercial refractometer, this is 1.81 (some RI liquids may have a limit of 1.79).
Results
- Flat surface readings: single refractive (SR) / double refractive (DR), birefringence, optic character (uniaxial or biaxial), and optic sign (positive or negative).
- Curved surface readings (distant vision method): Mean refractive index only.
General information
- Refractive Index (RI) measurement is the most useful and accurate means of testing gemstones.
- It is convenient, non-destructive and relatively quick to carry out providing useful information.
Requirements
- Optical contact.
- Clean, polished surface.
- Contact liquid.
- Refractive index (RI) of the stone under test should be within the range of the instrument.
Limits
- Upper limit of the refractometer is determined by the refractive index of the prism as well as the refractive index of the contact fluid / medium.
- In a normal commercial refractometer, this is 1.81 (some RI liquids may have a limit of 1.79).
Results
- Flat surface readings: single refractive (SR) / double refractive (DR), birefringence, optic character (uniaxial or biaxial), and optic sign (positive or negative).
- Curved surface readings (distant vision method): Mean refractive index only.
Diamond Cut: STARBURST
The Starburst Cut name is a patent of Louis Glick & Co and U Doppelt & Co, developed 25 years ago by the Louis Glick and U Doppelt companies.
The Starburst is a modified radiant cut. It is a rectangular brilliant cut with 88 or more kite and star shaped facets. Often there are twice as many facets on a Starburst as on a traditional round cut.
The Starburst is a modified radiant cut. It is a rectangular brilliant cut with 88 or more kite and star shaped facets. Often there are twice as many facets on a Starburst as on a traditional round cut.
Tasmanian Sapphire
David Federman writes:
Australia was to sapphire in the 1980s what South Africa was to diamonds for more than a century. Still, no one felt blue when Aussie indigos disappeared under a blanket of Madagascar's dressier blues in the 1990s.
The new African corundum boasted color that begged comparison to that of Sri Lankan goods—even on occasion Kashmir classics. Australia's material, on the other hand, was lucky to inspire comparisons to dark but sometimes handsome Cambodian and Thai stones. No wonder Australia came and went as a corundum colossus and no one shed a tear.
More info @ http://archives.modernjeweler.com/publication/article.jsp?pubId=1&id=193
Australia was to sapphire in the 1980s what South Africa was to diamonds for more than a century. Still, no one felt blue when Aussie indigos disappeared under a blanket of Madagascar's dressier blues in the 1990s.
The new African corundum boasted color that begged comparison to that of Sri Lankan goods—even on occasion Kashmir classics. Australia's material, on the other hand, was lucky to inspire comparisons to dark but sometimes handsome Cambodian and Thai stones. No wonder Australia came and went as a corundum colossus and no one shed a tear.
More info @ http://archives.modernjeweler.com/publication/article.jsp?pubId=1&id=193
The Colored Stone Story
What are colored stones?
Colored stones refer to any gem other than diamond. Some diamonds are colored, but colored diamonds are not considered colored stones.
What are the attributes of colored stones?
A colored stone possesses any of these three key characteristics: beauty, durability and rarity. An ideal colored stone has all three characteristics.
Why do colored stones look the way they do?
A number of factors contribute to the overall appearance of colored stones. These include color, transparency, lustre, brilliance, dispersion, scintillation, clarity and cut.
What is the difference between precious stones and semi-precious stones?
In the past, the term ‘precious stone’ referred to diamond, emerald, ruby and sapphire, while ‘semi-precious stone’ were anything other than these. Then, precious and semi-precious stones indicated relative value – the former being more valuable. Today, these descriptions have little meaning in terms of value, since all colored stones come in a variety of qualities. For example, a low quality ruby may sell for as little as USD1 per carat, while a good quality demantoid garnet may fetch USD1,000 per carat.
Are colored stones durable?
In order to wear well and retain attractiveness colored stones should be durable. Durability includes hardness and toughness. Resistance to scratching is referred to as hardness. Some colored stones are soft and may be easily scratched, thereby losing their attractiveness. Ideally a colored stone should be harder than dust particles, which may be fine particles of quartz (hardness=7) found in the air. Colored stones with hardness greater than quartz include ruby, sapphire, topaz, tourmaline, spinel and garnet. These are the most valuable. Resistance to breakage is referred to as toughness, and this depends on colored stone’s structure. Extremely tough gems are usually aggregates such as jadeite and nephrite.
Is there a relationship between quality and price?
In a perfect world price would directly relate to quality, weight and rarity. The real world is far from perfect. Market factors may have an impact on prices, as does quality.
What is colored stone treatment?
Colored stone treatment is a common term. It describes different ways to improve the beauty of colored stones. Colored stones have been enhanced for thousands of years. The truth is there isn’t enough top quality colored stones being mined to meet demand. Enhancement increases supply, ensuring a constant flow of colored stones which we can afford and enjoy. If in doubt about a colored stone, always consult a reputed gem testing laboratory.
Colored stones refer to any gem other than diamond. Some diamonds are colored, but colored diamonds are not considered colored stones.
What are the attributes of colored stones?
A colored stone possesses any of these three key characteristics: beauty, durability and rarity. An ideal colored stone has all three characteristics.
Why do colored stones look the way they do?
A number of factors contribute to the overall appearance of colored stones. These include color, transparency, lustre, brilliance, dispersion, scintillation, clarity and cut.
What is the difference between precious stones and semi-precious stones?
In the past, the term ‘precious stone’ referred to diamond, emerald, ruby and sapphire, while ‘semi-precious stone’ were anything other than these. Then, precious and semi-precious stones indicated relative value – the former being more valuable. Today, these descriptions have little meaning in terms of value, since all colored stones come in a variety of qualities. For example, a low quality ruby may sell for as little as USD1 per carat, while a good quality demantoid garnet may fetch USD1,000 per carat.
Are colored stones durable?
In order to wear well and retain attractiveness colored stones should be durable. Durability includes hardness and toughness. Resistance to scratching is referred to as hardness. Some colored stones are soft and may be easily scratched, thereby losing their attractiveness. Ideally a colored stone should be harder than dust particles, which may be fine particles of quartz (hardness=7) found in the air. Colored stones with hardness greater than quartz include ruby, sapphire, topaz, tourmaline, spinel and garnet. These are the most valuable. Resistance to breakage is referred to as toughness, and this depends on colored stone’s structure. Extremely tough gems are usually aggregates such as jadeite and nephrite.
Is there a relationship between quality and price?
In a perfect world price would directly relate to quality, weight and rarity. The real world is far from perfect. Market factors may have an impact on prices, as does quality.
What is colored stone treatment?
Colored stone treatment is a common term. It describes different ways to improve the beauty of colored stones. Colored stones have been enhanced for thousands of years. The truth is there isn’t enough top quality colored stones being mined to meet demand. Enhancement increases supply, ensuring a constant flow of colored stones which we can afford and enjoy. If in doubt about a colored stone, always consult a reputed gem testing laboratory.
The Chelsea Color Filter
The Chelsea Color Filter was first developed by the Gem Testing Laboratory of the London Chamber of Commerce (now GAGTL/Gem-A) in 1934, and was first used at the Chelsea College of Science and Technology as an aid in the separation of emerald from its simulants. It was originally called an emerald filter.
The Chelsea filter consists of a combination of two gelatin filters that pass wavelengths in the deep red and in the yellow green. To obtain best results, stones should be viewed under a strong artificial light with the filter held close to the eye so as to cut out any outside glare of light. The gemological uses of this simple instrument are limited, but it can be useful in certain circumstances.
The chromium in emerald makes it appear reddish or pinkish when the stone is strongly illuminated and viewed through the filter. Emerald imitations that do not contain chromium appear green through filter. A few natural emeralds, especially those from South America, fail to show pink through the filter. Once synthetic emeralds appeared on the market, the Chelsea filter became less useful as an emerald filter, because the synthetic product, also containing chromium, appears red through the filter, though often of a deeper red than natural counterparts.
The Chelsea filter is also useful in separating cobalt-containing gem species from others, as the presence of cobalt results in a red reaction through the filter. Gemstones colored by cobalt are in the main synthetic or man-made, and appear red through the filter. This has proven useful in separating synthetic blue spinel and man-made blue glass from the stones they imitate, namely aquamarine, blue zircon and sapphire. Gemstones containing cobalt are rare on earth.
Aquamarine and its most common simulant, synthetic blue spinela are visually very similar, but owe their respective blue color to different causes. Aquamarine is colored by iron, which absorbs red wavelengths and transmits some green wavelengths, and appears green through the filter. Synthetic blue spinel is colored by cobalt which absorbs green wavelength, but transmits red wavelength, appears red through the filter.
The absorption spectrum of aquamarine, colord by iron, and synthetic blue spinel, colored by cobalt, can help us understand why their reactions to the Chelsea filter are so different.
The Chelsea filter consists of a combination of two gelatin filters that pass wavelengths in the deep red and in the yellow green. To obtain best results, stones should be viewed under a strong artificial light with the filter held close to the eye so as to cut out any outside glare of light. The gemological uses of this simple instrument are limited, but it can be useful in certain circumstances.
The chromium in emerald makes it appear reddish or pinkish when the stone is strongly illuminated and viewed through the filter. Emerald imitations that do not contain chromium appear green through filter. A few natural emeralds, especially those from South America, fail to show pink through the filter. Once synthetic emeralds appeared on the market, the Chelsea filter became less useful as an emerald filter, because the synthetic product, also containing chromium, appears red through the filter, though often of a deeper red than natural counterparts.
The Chelsea filter is also useful in separating cobalt-containing gem species from others, as the presence of cobalt results in a red reaction through the filter. Gemstones colored by cobalt are in the main synthetic or man-made, and appear red through the filter. This has proven useful in separating synthetic blue spinel and man-made blue glass from the stones they imitate, namely aquamarine, blue zircon and sapphire. Gemstones containing cobalt are rare on earth.
Aquamarine and its most common simulant, synthetic blue spinela are visually very similar, but owe their respective blue color to different causes. Aquamarine is colored by iron, which absorbs red wavelengths and transmits some green wavelengths, and appears green through the filter. Synthetic blue spinel is colored by cobalt which absorbs green wavelength, but transmits red wavelength, appears red through the filter.
The absorption spectrum of aquamarine, colord by iron, and synthetic blue spinel, colored by cobalt, can help us understand why their reactions to the Chelsea filter are so different.
Monday, January 08, 2007
Tsavorite Garnet
National Jeweler Network writes:
Michael Coach and Associates has announced that it has acquired the largest clean tsavorite in the world. The stone weighs 325.13 carats and will be on display at the American Gem Trade Association GemFair beginning at the end of January in Tucson, Ariz.
The stone was found in the Karo area of Mereloni, Tanzania, in what is believed to be the biggest pocket of tsavorite ever discovered. The rough was found in a mine that goes straight down 120 meters from the surface and follows a reef at a 45-degree angle to a final depth of 180 meters.
Tsavorite is usually found in a host matrix of diopside, zoisite and grossular garnet, and is normally made in small nodules of gem crystal, which are put under enormous pressure. Because the nodules are squeezed and pushed during growth, inclusions are easily formed, making clean crystals something of a rarity.
From the rough, four stones were cut: a 62-carat clean, a 120-carat clean, a 307-carat included and the 325.13-carat clean acquired by Michael Couch and Associates. Asking price on the 325.13-carat stone is $2.2 million.
More info @ http://www.nationaljewelernetwork.com/njn/content_display/colored_stones/e3i359161611ed1086efe5914532f3faa3e
Michael Coach and Associates has announced that it has acquired the largest clean tsavorite in the world. The stone weighs 325.13 carats and will be on display at the American Gem Trade Association GemFair beginning at the end of January in Tucson, Ariz.
The stone was found in the Karo area of Mereloni, Tanzania, in what is believed to be the biggest pocket of tsavorite ever discovered. The rough was found in a mine that goes straight down 120 meters from the surface and follows a reef at a 45-degree angle to a final depth of 180 meters.
Tsavorite is usually found in a host matrix of diopside, zoisite and grossular garnet, and is normally made in small nodules of gem crystal, which are put under enormous pressure. Because the nodules are squeezed and pushed during growth, inclusions are easily formed, making clean crystals something of a rarity.
From the rough, four stones were cut: a 62-carat clean, a 120-carat clean, a 307-carat included and the 325.13-carat clean acquired by Michael Couch and Associates. Asking price on the 325.13-carat stone is $2.2 million.
More info @ http://www.nationaljewelernetwork.com/njn/content_display/colored_stones/e3i359161611ed1086efe5914532f3faa3e
Universities
Charles T Munger, Vice-Chairman of Berkshire Hathaway Corporation writes:
'There's a lot wrong (with American universities). I'd remove 3/4 of the faculty -- everything but the hard sciences. But nobody's going to do that, so we'll have to live with the defects. It's amazing how wrongheaded [the teaching is]. There is fatal disconnectedness. You have these squirrelly people in each department who don't see the big picture.'
'There's a lot wrong (with American universities). I'd remove 3/4 of the faculty -- everything but the hard sciences. But nobody's going to do that, so we'll have to live with the defects. It's amazing how wrongheaded [the teaching is]. There is fatal disconnectedness. You have these squirrelly people in each department who don't see the big picture.'
Burmite
Garry Platt writes:
Burma up until recent years had been China’s major source of amber. The Burmese had mined and dug for the amber which was then sold to Chinese traders who would sell on to crafts people who prized the gem for its qualities and mythical properties.
The amber was extracted from the Northern parts of the country. The mining shafts were lined with bamboo canes sunk down 10 -15 meters through clay deposits. ‘The Mineral Resources of Burma’ published in 1934 noted 200 pits aimed at extracting amber near the village of Shingban. Photographs from this period show these mines as potential death traps. The author is uninformed about the situation regarding amber mining within this region at the current time. Most records refer to activity up until the 1930’s, but none later. The age of Burmite has been established as Eocene through indicator fossils present in the amber deposits. The tree origin has been determined as Nummulites Biaritzensis.
More info @ http://www.gplatt.demon.co.uk/typesof.htm
Burma up until recent years had been China’s major source of amber. The Burmese had mined and dug for the amber which was then sold to Chinese traders who would sell on to crafts people who prized the gem for its qualities and mythical properties.
The amber was extracted from the Northern parts of the country. The mining shafts were lined with bamboo canes sunk down 10 -15 meters through clay deposits. ‘The Mineral Resources of Burma’ published in 1934 noted 200 pits aimed at extracting amber near the village of Shingban. Photographs from this period show these mines as potential death traps. The author is uninformed about the situation regarding amber mining within this region at the current time. Most records refer to activity up until the 1930’s, but none later. The age of Burmite has been established as Eocene through indicator fossils present in the amber deposits. The tree origin has been determined as Nummulites Biaritzensis.
More info @ http://www.gplatt.demon.co.uk/typesof.htm
Diamond Cut: CRISSCUT
The step cut Crisscut has 77 facets, some of which are crisscrossed, and comes in two shapes:
-Rectangular
-Octagonal.
Triangular facets are applied to the steps in the pavilion. Crisscut is the creation of Christopher Slowinski, the owner of Christopher Designs.
-Rectangular
-Octagonal.
Triangular facets are applied to the steps in the pavilion. Crisscut is the creation of Christopher Slowinski, the owner of Christopher Designs.
How To Judge Asterism
Asterism may be perceived as multiple chatoyancy.
The Star
- Is it sharp and intense?
- The star should be complete with no missing or weak rays.
- The star itself should roll or travel easily across the surface.
- The intersecting rays should meet as near as possible at the center of the stone. If the stone is cut so that one
of the arms of the star cuts across the shortest axis of the cabochon; the rays are evenly spaced and pleasing
to the eye. In the gem trade, this is described as "Open Star". If a ray is oriented across the longest axis of an
oval stone, then the rays will appear to be less pleasing to the eye. This is described as "Closer Star".
Body Color
- Does the stone have a good body color?
Clarity
- The stone should be free from cracks and fissures. Surface reaching cracks and fissures are undesirable
forming traps for dirt, weakening the stone.
Transparency
- There is a very fine balance between transparency of the stone and definition and intensity of the star. Too
much silk or inclusions will induce translucent or even opaque body color, while too little silk or inclusions
may create ill-defined star.
Cutting
- Is the cabochon shape pleasing to the eye?
- A fairly high dome is necessary to focus the star to the best advantage. This is because the dome of the
cabochon acts as a condensing lens to concentrate the rays of the star. If the dome of the cabochon is cut
as shallow curve it is liable to possess a nearly flat spot at the top producing diffused star that will almost
invisible unless the observer is directly above the stone. A well-proportioned dome with a smooth and even
curve, lacking any flat spots, should produce a sharp star visible from most angles.
- The weight below the girdle should not exceed approximately 20% of the weight of the stone. Most colored
stones are purchased by weight so excess material beneath the girdle that does not contribute to the body
color or to the star is an unnecessary expense. Some native cut stones are practically spherical. Such stones
should be valued at the weight they would be if cut to correct proportions.
- In highly transparent gemstones a concave base can be a decided advantage as it will provide greater
brilliance, although it should not contribute to the weight excessively. Ideally the back of a translucent or
near opaque stone should be flat, smooth, but unpolished. If the gem is sufficiently transparent it will show
any polishing defects such as pits or cracks on the base.
- Test the symmetry by spinning the stone on a flat surface. If the stone wobbles or the star is seen to oscillate,
this indicates an unsymmetrical stone. Also look out for any chips or nicks at the girdle.
- The surface polish should be good with no pits, nicks or pieces of matrix to disturb the movement of the star.
The Star
- Is it sharp and intense?
- The star should be complete with no missing or weak rays.
- The star itself should roll or travel easily across the surface.
- The intersecting rays should meet as near as possible at the center of the stone. If the stone is cut so that one
of the arms of the star cuts across the shortest axis of the cabochon; the rays are evenly spaced and pleasing
to the eye. In the gem trade, this is described as "Open Star". If a ray is oriented across the longest axis of an
oval stone, then the rays will appear to be less pleasing to the eye. This is described as "Closer Star".
Body Color
- Does the stone have a good body color?
Clarity
- The stone should be free from cracks and fissures. Surface reaching cracks and fissures are undesirable
forming traps for dirt, weakening the stone.
Transparency
- There is a very fine balance between transparency of the stone and definition and intensity of the star. Too
much silk or inclusions will induce translucent or even opaque body color, while too little silk or inclusions
may create ill-defined star.
Cutting
- Is the cabochon shape pleasing to the eye?
- A fairly high dome is necessary to focus the star to the best advantage. This is because the dome of the
cabochon acts as a condensing lens to concentrate the rays of the star. If the dome of the cabochon is cut
as shallow curve it is liable to possess a nearly flat spot at the top producing diffused star that will almost
invisible unless the observer is directly above the stone. A well-proportioned dome with a smooth and even
curve, lacking any flat spots, should produce a sharp star visible from most angles.
- The weight below the girdle should not exceed approximately 20% of the weight of the stone. Most colored
stones are purchased by weight so excess material beneath the girdle that does not contribute to the body
color or to the star is an unnecessary expense. Some native cut stones are practically spherical. Such stones
should be valued at the weight they would be if cut to correct proportions.
- In highly transparent gemstones a concave base can be a decided advantage as it will provide greater
brilliance, although it should not contribute to the weight excessively. Ideally the back of a translucent or
near opaque stone should be flat, smooth, but unpolished. If the gem is sufficiently transparent it will show
any polishing defects such as pits or cracks on the base.
- Test the symmetry by spinning the stone on a flat surface. If the stone wobbles or the star is seen to oscillate,
this indicates an unsymmetrical stone. Also look out for any chips or nicks at the girdle.
- The surface polish should be good with no pits, nicks or pieces of matrix to disturb the movement of the star.
Saturday, January 06, 2007
Microscope
What Are The Primary Functions Of Microscope?
The primary function of microscope is to enlarge the image under view in order to help differentiate between natural and synthetic. Inclusions can indicate not only whether a material is natural or man-made, but also help identify the geographic origin of natural stones as well as the method of formation of those produced in a laboratory.
Natural: crystal, liquid and gaseous inclusions, or a combination of the aforementioned (e.g., two-phase (liquid + gas), three phase (mineral + liquid + gas), negative inclusions, straight color zoning, oriented silk (chatoyancy and asterism).
Man-made (synthetics and artificial stones): inclusions due to growth conditions which are for the most part dissimilar to those found in natural material. For example:
- Melt synthetics (flame fusion, pulling method, floating zone): curved color zoning; unmelted particles, gas bubbles like tadpole, dumb bell in shape or circular bomb-like, are common, but new specimens may be relatively clean.
- Solution synthetics (flux): primary and secondary flux inclusions, platinum platelets, twisted veils, phenakite crystals (emerald); paint splash-like, mesh-like flux, platinum platelets (corundum); (hydrothermal) nail-like, cuneate forms (phenakite crystal and growth tube), growth zoning patterns (chevron-like, wheat stalk-like) liquid and multiple phase inclusions in wispy or fingerprint patterns, metallic inclusions in the form of gold platelets or grains from gold-lined autoclaves or platinum crystals, seed crystals, if any.
Paste: air bubbles, swirl marks, incomplete color mix. Specialty glasses like aventurine glass, slocum stone, rhinestone, foilbacks,etc.,
Assembled (composite) stones (doublets + triplets): squashed bubbles in plane of join, difference in color, inclusions, luster in various sections.
Pearls (cultured and imitation): filled glass bead or coated bead (imitation), drill hole discontinuity layer.
Artificial treatment: heat treatment—strain halos around inclusions, double girdle (polished and fireskin sections: corundum); surface diffusion— revealed by immersion, dark rim, bleeding of color into pits, uneven color due to reploshing (magnification not essential: corundum); fracture filling—dispersion flashes, gas bubbles, color of the compound (emerald); glass filling—difference in luster, gas bubbles (corundum); beryllium treatment—color spots, cottony-like crystals, color rim, melted crystals; lead glass filling—dispersion flashes, melted crystals, color irregularities (corundum, diamond); staining—color build up in cracks and flaws; Irradiation—irradiation stains, cyclotron umbrella-like color in diamond, etc.,
General observations: The observation of external gem features such as luster, quality of cut (symmetry) and polish (condition of facets), detection of breakage (fracture and cleavage) or gem vulnerability to damage, detection of doubling in double refractive stones (indicating the amount of birefringence).
The microscope may be further adapted in conjunction with additional equipment to carry out the following functions:
Polariscope: with the aid of two suitably placed Polaroid sheets—SR/ADR and DR/Aggregate reactions may be noted. Interference figures—a convergent beam of polarized light along an optic axis may produce figures indicating uniaxial or biaxial nature of a DR stone. In addition, the optic sign may be deducted from these figures using accessory plates (e.g., mica plate or quartz wedge).
Pleochroism: using one polar (or two polars side by side with the vibration directions at right angles to one another) while the stone is rotated; it may be possible to note differences in color.
Refractive index: accurate and/or approximate R.I may be determined by the following methods. Real & Apparent Depth Method (R.I = real depth / apparent depth); Immersion Contrast; Becke Line Effect (simplified Becke).
Spectroscope: by fixing a spectroscope in place of an eye piece and observe absorption and emission patterns.
Plato Method: for distinguishing between pale colored natural and flame fusion synthetic corundum when characteristic inclusions are not noticeable (in di-iodomethane—methylene iodide), view along optic axis through crossed polars at 30x, dark lines intersecting at 60º indicate synthetic; in most cases, natural stones won’t show lines.
Photomicrography: fix camera adapter in place of an eye piece to record inclusions for further study or reference.
Other: measurement of stone using calibrated stage; measurement of interfacial angles using rotating stage.
The primary function of microscope is to enlarge the image under view in order to help differentiate between natural and synthetic. Inclusions can indicate not only whether a material is natural or man-made, but also help identify the geographic origin of natural stones as well as the method of formation of those produced in a laboratory.
Natural: crystal, liquid and gaseous inclusions, or a combination of the aforementioned (e.g., two-phase (liquid + gas), three phase (mineral + liquid + gas), negative inclusions, straight color zoning, oriented silk (chatoyancy and asterism).
Man-made (synthetics and artificial stones): inclusions due to growth conditions which are for the most part dissimilar to those found in natural material. For example:
- Melt synthetics (flame fusion, pulling method, floating zone): curved color zoning; unmelted particles, gas bubbles like tadpole, dumb bell in shape or circular bomb-like, are common, but new specimens may be relatively clean.
- Solution synthetics (flux): primary and secondary flux inclusions, platinum platelets, twisted veils, phenakite crystals (emerald); paint splash-like, mesh-like flux, platinum platelets (corundum); (hydrothermal) nail-like, cuneate forms (phenakite crystal and growth tube), growth zoning patterns (chevron-like, wheat stalk-like) liquid and multiple phase inclusions in wispy or fingerprint patterns, metallic inclusions in the form of gold platelets or grains from gold-lined autoclaves or platinum crystals, seed crystals, if any.
Paste: air bubbles, swirl marks, incomplete color mix. Specialty glasses like aventurine glass, slocum stone, rhinestone, foilbacks,etc.,
Assembled (composite) stones (doublets + triplets): squashed bubbles in plane of join, difference in color, inclusions, luster in various sections.
Pearls (cultured and imitation): filled glass bead or coated bead (imitation), drill hole discontinuity layer.
Artificial treatment: heat treatment—strain halos around inclusions, double girdle (polished and fireskin sections: corundum); surface diffusion— revealed by immersion, dark rim, bleeding of color into pits, uneven color due to reploshing (magnification not essential: corundum); fracture filling—dispersion flashes, gas bubbles, color of the compound (emerald); glass filling—difference in luster, gas bubbles (corundum); beryllium treatment—color spots, cottony-like crystals, color rim, melted crystals; lead glass filling—dispersion flashes, melted crystals, color irregularities (corundum, diamond); staining—color build up in cracks and flaws; Irradiation—irradiation stains, cyclotron umbrella-like color in diamond, etc.,
General observations: The observation of external gem features such as luster, quality of cut (symmetry) and polish (condition of facets), detection of breakage (fracture and cleavage) or gem vulnerability to damage, detection of doubling in double refractive stones (indicating the amount of birefringence).
The microscope may be further adapted in conjunction with additional equipment to carry out the following functions:
Polariscope: with the aid of two suitably placed Polaroid sheets—SR/ADR and DR/Aggregate reactions may be noted. Interference figures—a convergent beam of polarized light along an optic axis may produce figures indicating uniaxial or biaxial nature of a DR stone. In addition, the optic sign may be deducted from these figures using accessory plates (e.g., mica plate or quartz wedge).
Pleochroism: using one polar (or two polars side by side with the vibration directions at right angles to one another) while the stone is rotated; it may be possible to note differences in color.
Refractive index: accurate and/or approximate R.I may be determined by the following methods. Real & Apparent Depth Method (R.I = real depth / apparent depth); Immersion Contrast; Becke Line Effect (simplified Becke).
Spectroscope: by fixing a spectroscope in place of an eye piece and observe absorption and emission patterns.
Plato Method: for distinguishing between pale colored natural and flame fusion synthetic corundum when characteristic inclusions are not noticeable (in di-iodomethane—methylene iodide), view along optic axis through crossed polars at 30x, dark lines intersecting at 60º indicate synthetic; in most cases, natural stones won’t show lines.
Photomicrography: fix camera adapter in place of an eye piece to record inclusions for further study or reference.
Other: measurement of stone using calibrated stage; measurement of interfacial angles using rotating stage.
Diamond Cut: BAROCUT
The Barocut is considered rectangular modified cut with 77 facets-81 in cut corner style. The cut is also perceived as "The Two Heart Diamond" due to the look of two hearts meeting point to point deep into the culet of the diamond.
The Barocut diamond brand is the creation of Baroka Creations Inc.
The Barocut diamond brand is the creation of Baroka Creations Inc.
Friday, January 05, 2007
Chemawinite
Garry Platt writes:
Amber from the Cretaceous is rare, but Canada has some remarkable deposits originating from this age. Cedar Lake in Manitoba is probably one of the most commonly written about sites. The Cedar Lake deposits were found on the South West lakeside shore as washed and tiny pieces ranging from .5cm to 2cm in diameter. Highly fossiliferous by all accounts containing many examples of both flora and fauna.
Various scientific expeditions have brought back several hundred pounds of amber from this site. In the 1950’s a project was set in place to begin commercial development of the site. The venture later failed. This site has now been lost to science because of the flooding of the area. The former lake side shore is now hidden beneath the new water level. Reports have been made of amber beginning to appear on the new higher shoreline. So far these reports have been unsubstantiated.
More info @ http://www.gplatt.demon.co.uk/typesof.htm
Amber from the Cretaceous is rare, but Canada has some remarkable deposits originating from this age. Cedar Lake in Manitoba is probably one of the most commonly written about sites. The Cedar Lake deposits were found on the South West lakeside shore as washed and tiny pieces ranging from .5cm to 2cm in diameter. Highly fossiliferous by all accounts containing many examples of both flora and fauna.
Various scientific expeditions have brought back several hundred pounds of amber from this site. In the 1950’s a project was set in place to begin commercial development of the site. The venture later failed. This site has now been lost to science because of the flooding of the area. The former lake side shore is now hidden beneath the new water level. Reports have been made of amber beginning to appear on the new higher shoreline. So far these reports have been unsubstantiated.
More info @ http://www.gplatt.demon.co.uk/typesof.htm
How The Spectroscope Works
The spectroscope splits visible light into its component colors (using either a set of prisms, or in the less expensive models, a diffraction grating) producing essentially the colors of the rainbow--red, orange, yellow, green, blue and violet. A diffraction grating spectroscope achieves this by using a finely ruled grating consisting of a series of photographically etched parallel lines (as many as 1000 per millimeter) on a sheet of glass. This produces a series of spectra by diffraction and interference, but only the strongest spectrum is used. For proper viewing of gemstone spectra a concentrated light source is required.
Lighting and Use
With an adjustable slit spectroscope, resist the temptation to open the slit wider than it necessary as it only tends to make matters worse by drowning the spectrum with too much light. Instead, try moving the stone to let more light through it, or use a lens to further concetrate light into the stone.
The difficulty in reading lines, bands or absorption in the blue violet end of the spectrum can be overcome, in some instances, by filtering the incident white light through a flask containing a solution of copper sulphate and distilled water (copper sulphate is toxic, so care is necessary when handling it). By filtering out the distracting longer wavelengths (red, orange, yellow, etc) the eyes adjust more readily to the subtle differences seen in the blue violet end.
Inability to see a spectrum may be due to the fact that only a small trace of the spectrum causing agent is present, or that insufficient light is reaching the spectroscope for analysis (e.g , in very dark stones or semi-translucent to opaque material). In very pale or shallow stones, try passing the light through the maximum amount of material in order to enhance the strength of the absorption pattern seen.
Keep in mind
Not every stone has a spectrum, and not every spectrum you see is helpful in gem identification. More important--don't expect all spectra to look as neat and tidy as those illustrated in books. In stones with different selective absorption (dichroic or trichroic) the spectrum may vary depending upon the direction in which the stone is viewed. Spectrum analysis is only one test leading to positive identification of a stone.
Lighting and Use
With an adjustable slit spectroscope, resist the temptation to open the slit wider than it necessary as it only tends to make matters worse by drowning the spectrum with too much light. Instead, try moving the stone to let more light through it, or use a lens to further concetrate light into the stone.
The difficulty in reading lines, bands or absorption in the blue violet end of the spectrum can be overcome, in some instances, by filtering the incident white light through a flask containing a solution of copper sulphate and distilled water (copper sulphate is toxic, so care is necessary when handling it). By filtering out the distracting longer wavelengths (red, orange, yellow, etc) the eyes adjust more readily to the subtle differences seen in the blue violet end.
Inability to see a spectrum may be due to the fact that only a small trace of the spectrum causing agent is present, or that insufficient light is reaching the spectroscope for analysis (e.g , in very dark stones or semi-translucent to opaque material). In very pale or shallow stones, try passing the light through the maximum amount of material in order to enhance the strength of the absorption pattern seen.
Keep in mind
Not every stone has a spectrum, and not every spectrum you see is helpful in gem identification. More important--don't expect all spectra to look as neat and tidy as those illustrated in books. In stones with different selective absorption (dichroic or trichroic) the spectrum may vary depending upon the direction in which the stone is viewed. Spectrum analysis is only one test leading to positive identification of a stone.
How To Judge Chatoyant Stones
There are many gemstones that can show chatoyant phenomena, but the cat’s eye of a fine chrysoberyl combined with the stone’s excellent hardness and durability designate it as the precious cat’s eye among gems.
In the trade, the term cat’s eye alone will always refer to chrysoberyl unless another species is mentioned as a qualifier such as quartz cat’s eye, tourmaline cat’s eye, diopside cat’s eye, kornerupine cat’s eye, etc.
Chatoyancy is a reflection effect from oriented parallel fibrous inclusions or cavities. Light reflects off these needles and if the stone is cut correctly, this results in a single sharp band of light running across the top of the stone similar to a cat’s eye. The domed surface of the cabochon acts like a lens to focus the eye. The grading of phenomenal stones involves the judging of the phenomenon itself as well as the other components that make up the accurate grading of a gemstone.
There are five factors to consider when judging the quality of a cat’s eye.
- The cat’s eye itself
Is it sharp and intense? Is it wavy or even and well-centered? Does it extend from girdle to girdle, and is it properly orientated? Does the eye run lengthwise? Does it open and close?
- Does the stone have good body color?
Is the body color desirable?
- Does the stone have good transparency?
Is there good transparency without sacrificing the sharpness of the eye? There is a very delicate balance in maintaining transparency, yet not being so transparent that the sharpness of the eye is weakened. The base of highly transparent cabochons is often left unpolished for this very reason.
- Does the stone have good clarity?
Are there imperfections, internal or on the surface that interfere with the eye? Do the imperfections distract the viewer from the eye, or decrease the transparency of the stone?
- Is the cutting good?
Is the cabochon shape pleasing to the eye? Are you paying for excessive weight below the girdle that will not be visible when viewed face-up?
In the trade, the term cat’s eye alone will always refer to chrysoberyl unless another species is mentioned as a qualifier such as quartz cat’s eye, tourmaline cat’s eye, diopside cat’s eye, kornerupine cat’s eye, etc.
Chatoyancy is a reflection effect from oriented parallel fibrous inclusions or cavities. Light reflects off these needles and if the stone is cut correctly, this results in a single sharp band of light running across the top of the stone similar to a cat’s eye. The domed surface of the cabochon acts like a lens to focus the eye. The grading of phenomenal stones involves the judging of the phenomenon itself as well as the other components that make up the accurate grading of a gemstone.
There are five factors to consider when judging the quality of a cat’s eye.
- The cat’s eye itself
Is it sharp and intense? Is it wavy or even and well-centered? Does it extend from girdle to girdle, and is it properly orientated? Does the eye run lengthwise? Does it open and close?
- Does the stone have good body color?
Is the body color desirable?
- Does the stone have good transparency?
Is there good transparency without sacrificing the sharpness of the eye? There is a very delicate balance in maintaining transparency, yet not being so transparent that the sharpness of the eye is weakened. The base of highly transparent cabochons is often left unpolished for this very reason.
- Does the stone have good clarity?
Are there imperfections, internal or on the surface that interfere with the eye? Do the imperfections distract the viewer from the eye, or decrease the transparency of the stone?
- Is the cutting good?
Is the cabochon shape pleasing to the eye? Are you paying for excessive weight below the girdle that will not be visible when viewed face-up?
Fracture, Cleavage, Parting
1. What is fracture?
Fracture is an uneven break in a gemstone.
2. What is cleavage?
Cleavage is an uneven break parallel to a crystal face due to weakness in molecular bonding.
3. What is parting?
Parting is a breakage due to structural weakness either caused by inclusions or areas of twinning.
Fracture is an uneven break in a gemstone.
2. What is cleavage?
Cleavage is an uneven break parallel to a crystal face due to weakness in molecular bonding.
3. What is parting?
Parting is a breakage due to structural weakness either caused by inclusions or areas of twinning.
Toughness
1. What is toughness?
Tenacity is defined as toughness. By definition it is a measure of resistance of a gem to breaking or fracturing.
2.What is the relation of hardness and tenacity?
They are not related. Hard stones are not necessarily tough. Diamond, the hardest, cleave while nephrite, which is not hard, is very tough.
Tenacity is defined as toughness. By definition it is a measure of resistance of a gem to breaking or fracturing.
2.What is the relation of hardness and tenacity?
They are not related. Hard stones are not necessarily tough. Diamond, the hardest, cleave while nephrite, which is not hard, is very tough.
Thursday, January 04, 2007
Hardness
1. What is hardness?
Hardness is defined as resistance to scratching.
2. What scale do we use to judge it?
The Moh's scale.
3. List the order of increasing hardness on the scale with an example at each level.
Talc(1), gypsum(2), calcite(3), fluorite(4), apatite(5), orthoclase(6), quartz(7), topaz(8), corundum(9), diamond(10).
4. What is considered to be the minimum acceptable hardness for a gemstone?
7. Stones with a hardness less than 7 will scratch more easily so how they are fashioned into jewelry and how they are cared for is important.
Hardness is defined as resistance to scratching.
2. What scale do we use to judge it?
The Moh's scale.
3. List the order of increasing hardness on the scale with an example at each level.
Talc(1), gypsum(2), calcite(3), fluorite(4), apatite(5), orthoclase(6), quartz(7), topaz(8), corundum(9), diamond(10).
4. What is considered to be the minimum acceptable hardness for a gemstone?
7. Stones with a hardness less than 7 will scratch more easily so how they are fashioned into jewelry and how they are cared for is important.
Shape and Cutting Style
How to distinguish between shape and cutting style?
Shape is simply the way the girdle is cut ie., round, square, oval etc., while cutting style is how facets are cut on the crown and pavilion.
Shape is simply the way the girdle is cut ie., round, square, oval etc., while cutting style is how facets are cut on the crown and pavilion.
Tweezer
What are the characteristics of a good tweezer?
A good tweezer should be dull, with non-reflective surface and good spring, with inner groove near tip.
A good tweezer should be dull, with non-reflective surface and good spring, with inner groove near tip.
Colored Stone and Light Source
Which light source is used to distinguish color? Which light source is used to judge transparency?
To distinguish color use reflected light.
To distinguish transparency use transmitted light.
To distinguish color use reflected light.
To distinguish transparency use transmitted light.
Natural Stone, Enhanced and Synthetic Stone
What is the difference between a natural stone, enhanced and a synthetic stone?
Natural: as found in nature with only cutting and polishing done. Ex. Natural, ruby, sapphire, emerald, garnet.
Enhanced: a stone that has been treated by man such as heating, oiling etc.,. Ex. Treated rubies, sapphires, emerald.
Synthetic: man made stone which has a counterpart in nature and has the same chemical, physical and optical properties as the natural stone. Ex. Synthetic ruby, sapphire, emerald, diamond.
Natural: as found in nature with only cutting and polishing done. Ex. Natural, ruby, sapphire, emerald, garnet.
Enhanced: a stone that has been treated by man such as heating, oiling etc.,. Ex. Treated rubies, sapphires, emerald.
Synthetic: man made stone which has a counterpart in nature and has the same chemical, physical and optical properties as the natural stone. Ex. Synthetic ruby, sapphire, emerald, diamond.
Wednesday, January 03, 2007
How To Become A Good Investor
Charles T Munger, Vice-Chairman of Berkshire Hathaway Corporation writes:
'If you're going to be an investor, you're going to make some investments where you don't have all the experience you need. But if you keep trying to get a little better over time, you'll start to make investments that are virtually certain to have a good outcome. The keys are discipline, hard work, and practice. It's like playing golf -- you have to work on it.'
'If you're going to be an investor, you're going to make some investments where you don't have all the experience you need. But if you keep trying to get a little better over time, you'll start to make investments that are virtually certain to have a good outcome. The keys are discipline, hard work, and practice. It's like playing golf -- you have to work on it.'
Dominican Republic Amber
Garry Platt writes:
Dominican Republic amber, probably the world’s second largest deposit following that of the Baltic amber region, strangely does not have a unique name but can be called amber because of the presence of Succinic acid though not to the same level as Baltic amber. It is commonly referred to as Dominican Republic amber. Throughout the island are numerous mines which tap into different deposits of amber. Laid down in successive layers the age of the amber extracted can vary from between 15 - 40 million years. The tree origin has been established by Poinar as Hymenaea protera.
More info @ http://www.gplatt.demon.co.uk/typesof.htm
Dominican Republic amber, probably the world’s second largest deposit following that of the Baltic amber region, strangely does not have a unique name but can be called amber because of the presence of Succinic acid though not to the same level as Baltic amber. It is commonly referred to as Dominican Republic amber. Throughout the island are numerous mines which tap into different deposits of amber. Laid down in successive layers the age of the amber extracted can vary from between 15 - 40 million years. The tree origin has been established by Poinar as Hymenaea protera.
More info @ http://www.gplatt.demon.co.uk/typesof.htm
Dubai Cut
National Jeweler Network writes:
Dhamani Jewels DMCC, the sole distributor of the "Dubai Cut" diamond, has announced the launch of a jewelry line incorporating the gems and inspired by the shape of the letter "D."
Unveiled as the world's first diamond cut inspired by and named after a city, the 99-faceted Dubai Cut reflects the 99 holy names of Allah. Russian polished-diamond manufacturer Kristall Corp. produces the unique cut exclusively for DMCC under a legal patent.
More info @ http://www.nationaljewelernetwork.com/njn/content_display/diamonds/e3i73449c66171eef175fcbbfd77ca40240
Dhamani Jewels DMCC, the sole distributor of the "Dubai Cut" diamond, has announced the launch of a jewelry line incorporating the gems and inspired by the shape of the letter "D."
Unveiled as the world's first diamond cut inspired by and named after a city, the 99-faceted Dubai Cut reflects the 99 holy names of Allah. Russian polished-diamond manufacturer Kristall Corp. produces the unique cut exclusively for DMCC under a legal patent.
More info @ http://www.nationaljewelernetwork.com/njn/content_display/diamonds/e3i73449c66171eef175fcbbfd77ca40240
Tuesday, January 02, 2007
Thinking Sensibly
Charles T Munger, Vice-Chairman of Berkshire Hathaway Corporation writes:
'The ethos of not fooling yourself is one of the best you could possibly have. It's powerful because it's so rare. Organized common (or uncommon) sense -- very basic knowledge -- is an enormously powerful tool. There are huge dangers with computers. People calculate too much and think too little.'
'The ethos of not fooling yourself is one of the best you could possibly have. It's powerful because it's so rare. Organized common (or uncommon) sense -- very basic knowledge -- is an enormously powerful tool. There are huge dangers with computers. People calculate too much and think too little.'
Edie Weiner: Trend Analyst
(via) Amber Michelle writes:
Edie Weiner, Futurist and Trent Analyst, President, Weiner, Edrich, Brown, Inc.
“Agent of the population is a huge trend. There are so many people over the age of 60 and we know nothing about them. They have spending power—they are spending on vacations, trips, and grandkids,” comments Weiner. This is an important trend to watch going forward. The first of the Baby Boomers turned 60 in 2006, which translates to 7918 people turning 60 each day in the U.S. By 2030, it is expected that about one in five Americans will be 65 or older.
The U.S is also becoming more of a nation of immigration, says Weiner. “There are more and more immigrant births in the U.S, especially from Latin America and Asia. This is creating a change from European culture.”
More couples are adopting foreign babies, which is creating more multicultural households. “These couples bring in Chinese or African babies to middle-class, conservative neighborhoods in Middle America,” says Weiner, “ and it changes people’s views on the world. Many of these households are intercultural and are trying to connect with both cultures.”
An increasing number of high school dropouts will create a lot of issues, Weiner predicts. “The ‘No Child Left Behind’ program is forcing every kid to be college material and those who aren’t, are not being accommodated. They are being told that there is no place for them. It will create a huge problem in that there will not be enough good people to fill service jobs.”
Source: http://www.rapaport.com
Edie Weiner, Futurist and Trent Analyst, President, Weiner, Edrich, Brown, Inc.
“Agent of the population is a huge trend. There are so many people over the age of 60 and we know nothing about them. They have spending power—they are spending on vacations, trips, and grandkids,” comments Weiner. This is an important trend to watch going forward. The first of the Baby Boomers turned 60 in 2006, which translates to 7918 people turning 60 each day in the U.S. By 2030, it is expected that about one in five Americans will be 65 or older.
The U.S is also becoming more of a nation of immigration, says Weiner. “There are more and more immigrant births in the U.S, especially from Latin America and Asia. This is creating a change from European culture.”
More couples are adopting foreign babies, which is creating more multicultural households. “These couples bring in Chinese or African babies to middle-class, conservative neighborhoods in Middle America,” says Weiner, “ and it changes people’s views on the world. Many of these households are intercultural and are trying to connect with both cultures.”
An increasing number of high school dropouts will create a lot of issues, Weiner predicts. “The ‘No Child Left Behind’ program is forcing every kid to be college material and those who aren’t, are not being accommodated. They are being told that there is no place for them. It will create a huge problem in that there will not be enough good people to fill service jobs.”
Source: http://www.rapaport.com
How To Grease A Palm
The Economist writes:
Corruption has its own elaborate etiquette
GIVE people power and discretion, and whether they are grand viziers or border guards, some will use their position to enrich themselves. The problem can be big enough to hold back a country's development. One study has shown that bribes account for 8% of the total cost of running a business in Uganda. Another found that corruption boosted the price of hospital supplies in Buenos Aires by 15%. Paul Wolfowitz, the head of the World Bank, is devoting special efforts during his presidency there to a drive against corruption.
For most people in the world, though, the worry is not that corruption may slow down their country's GDP growth. It is that their daily lives are pervaded by endless hassles, big and small. And for all the evidence that some cultures suffer endemic corruption while others are relatively clean, attitudes towards corruption, and even the language describing bribery, is remarkably similar around the world.
In a testament to most people's basic decency, bribe-takers and bribe-payers have developed an elaborate theatre of dissimulation. This is not just to avoid detection. Even in countries where corruption is so common as to be unremarkable and unprosecutable—and even when the transaction happens far from snooping eyes—a bribe is almost always dressed up as some other kind of exchange. Though most of the world is plagued by corruption, even serial offenders try to conceal it.
One manifestation of this is linguistic. Surprisingly few people say: “You are going to have to pay me if you want to get that done.” Instead, they use a wide variety of euphemisms. One type is quasi-official terminology. The first bribe paid by your correspondent, in Ukraine in 1998, went to two policemen so they would let him board a train leaving the country. On the train into Ukraine, the customs officer had absconded with a form that is needed again later to leave the country. The policemen at the station kindly explained that there was a shtraf, a “fine” that could be paid instead of producing the document. The policemen let him off with the minimum shtraf of 50 hryvnia ($25).
Another term widely used at border crossings is “expediting fee”. For a euphemism it is surprisingly accurate: paying it will keep your bags, and perhaps your contraband, from being dumped onto a floor and sifted through at a leisurely pace. (A related term, used in India, is “speed money”: paying it can get essential business permits issued considerably faster.)
Paul Lewis, an analyst with the Economist Intelligence Unit (a sister company to The Economist), describes the quasi-business terminology typically used for bribery in the post-communist privatisations of eastern Europe. A mostly useless but well-connected insider at the company is hired as a “consultant”. The consultant is paid a large official “fee”, nominally for his industry expertise, on the understanding that he will cut in the minister and other decision-makers.
A second type of euphemism dresses up a dodgy payment as a friendly favour done by the bribe-payer. There is plenty of creative scope. Nigerian policemen are known to ask for “a little something for the weekend”. A North African term is “un petit cadeau”, a little gift. Mexican traffic police will suggest that you buy them a refresco, a soft drink, as will Angolan and Mozambican petty officials, who call it a gazoso in Portuguese. A businessman in Iraq told Reuters that although corruption there is quite overt, officials still insist on being given a “good coffee”.
Double meaning can help soothe the awkwardness of bribe-paying. Baksheesh, originally a Persian word now found in many countries of the Middle East, can mean “tip”, “alms” and “bribe”. Swahili-speakers can take advantage of another ambiguous term. In Kenya a machine-gun-wielding guard suggested to a terrified Canadian aid worker: “Perhaps you would like to discuss this over tea?” The young Canadian was relieved: the difficulty could be resolved with some chai, which means both “tea” and “bribe”.
Brown envelopes
Along with the obscurantist language, bribe-taking culture around the world often involves the avoidance of physically handing the money from one person to another. One obvious reason is to avoid detection, which is why bribes are known as “envelopes” in countries from China to Greece. But avoidance of a direct hand-over is common even where there is no chance of detection. There will always be some officials who will take money right from a bribe-payer's hands, but most seem to prefer to find some way to hide the money from view. A bribe to a border guard may be folded into a passport. A sweetener to a traffic cop is often placed in the ticket-book that is handed to the driver. Parag Khanna, who is writing a book about countries on the edge of the rich world that are trying to get rich themselves, describes a bribe-taker he spotted in Georgia who he was sure was a rookie. Why? The scrawny young soldier, forgoing any subtleties, merely rubbed his fingers together in an age-old gesture.
Journalists are an obvious target for bribe-seekers. They often find themselves trying to get past bored, poorly paid guards and officials to see someone or something more important. Moreover, they are often foreigners—and around the world white faces, foreign passports, foreign car number plates and a few other distinguishing features are like blood in the water for those seeking a pay-off.
A journalist for a Western newspaper in Moscow was running late for an important meeting at the Kremlin for which he had waited a long while. On his way he was stopped by the traffic police for some real or invented infraction. In a hurry, the reporter negotiated a modest bribe—but found he had nothing smaller than a 1,000 rouble ($30) note in his wallet. Inspired by desperation, he agreed to pay 1,000 roubles in exchange for a ride to the Kremlin in the police car, with sirens blaring, to make sure he would be on time. The policeman tried to hold out for 1,500 roubles, but the steely nerved journalist got his ride for his offer price.
Inappropriate gifts
Journalists can be on the receiving end of bribes, too, to ensure favourable coverage. A former Africa correspondent for The Economist says that in Nigeria, one of the world's most corrupt countries, journalists are given hundreds of dollars in brown envelopes “for expenses” simply to attend press conferences. An ocean away, Armstrong Williams, an American columnist and television host, was paid $240,000 by the Department of Education to comment “regularly” on “No Child Left Behind”, an education-reform bill. He claimed that he was not a “journalist” but a “commentator”, but conceded that the deal had been ill-judged. Similarly, Maggie Gallagher, another conservative columnist, was paid to promote the Bush administration's “healthy marriage” programme. When challenged, she asked, “Did I violate journalistic ethics by not disclosing [the contract]? I don't know. You tell me.”
The Economist lays down clear rules for its journalists. An envelope stuffed with cash, much less a $240,000 contract, would be inappropriate. Any gift, says the policy, must be consumable in a single day. So a bottle of wine is acceptable, a case of wine is not.
Rich Westerners may not think of their societies as plagued by corruption. But the definition of bribery clearly differs from person to person. A New Yorker might pity the third-world businessman who must pay bribes just to keep his shop open. But the same New Yorker would not think twice about slipping the maître d' $50 to sneak into a nice restaurant without a reservation. Poor people the world over are most infuriated by the casual corruption of the elites rather than by the underpaid, “tip”-seeking soldier or functionary. Indeed, in the world's richest economy, what many see as simple bribery is an integral part of lawmaking. In Washington, DC, it is accepted that a lobbyist's generous campaign contribution to a crucial congressman may help to steer some spending to the lobbyist's client.
But proving corruption requires proving the intent to exchange one favour for another. Brent Wilkes, named as a co-conspirator in the bribery case of a Californian congressman, told the New York Times about a lesson he was taught early in his lobbying career: a cheque must never be handed over at the same time as a lobbying pitch is made. Much better to wait and do it in a hallway later. Proving intent in a courtroom is famously hard to do, so few such exchanges result in convictions. But many ordinary Americans are aware of what is going on. No surprise, then, that Congress is, by some measures, the least popular branch of government.
Yet corrupt practices in America and western Europe are nothing like as pervasive as in other parts of the world. There is no single cultural factor that inclines a society towards corruption, but economic factors play a big part. Most clearly, poverty and bribery go together.
But which causes which? Mr Wolfowitz's crusade at the World Bank is based on the idea that corrupt countries fail to develop. But several countries in Asia have grown rapidly at a time when cronyism was common, including Indonesia and South Korea in their time. Today's most conspicuous example is China with its explosive growth. Polls consistently show that corruption is the top complaint of ordinary Chinese. From time to time the Chinese government executes particularly egregious offenders, to no apparent avail. And yet foreign investors cannot pile into the country fast enough. Although most economists agree that corruption slows development, a corrupt country is nevertheless capable of rapid growth. Countries may be corrupt because they are poor, and not the other way round.
Jakob Svensson, an economist at Stockholm University, has cut through cultural stereotypes to search for hard data on corrupt economies. He has found that socialist and recently socialist economies show higher levels of corruption than others. Among the factors he has tested for correlation with corruption is the overall education level of the adult population. A second is openness to imports (measured by imports as a proportion of GDP), which is linked with opportunities for smuggling. A third is freedom of the press (as ranked by Freedom House, a civil-liberties watchdog), on the hypothesis that independent journalists will expose, and thereby curtail, corruption. The fourth is the number of days needed to start a business, a proxy for the number of permits required, and therefore red tape. Mr Svensson found clear correlations between all these variables and the overall level of corruption.
Among the many factors that determine the level of corruption in a country, one stands out. Whether it takes the shape of an American congressman dispensing a $2 trillion budget or a horde of petty officials administering a Bible-sized rulebook, where there is a lot of government, there is a lot of bribery. Corruption thus offers yet another confirmation of the dictum attributed to Thomas Jefferson that “the government is best which governs least.”
More info @ http://www.economist.com/world/displaystory.cfm?story_id=8401139
Corruption has its own elaborate etiquette
GIVE people power and discretion, and whether they are grand viziers or border guards, some will use their position to enrich themselves. The problem can be big enough to hold back a country's development. One study has shown that bribes account for 8% of the total cost of running a business in Uganda. Another found that corruption boosted the price of hospital supplies in Buenos Aires by 15%. Paul Wolfowitz, the head of the World Bank, is devoting special efforts during his presidency there to a drive against corruption.
For most people in the world, though, the worry is not that corruption may slow down their country's GDP growth. It is that their daily lives are pervaded by endless hassles, big and small. And for all the evidence that some cultures suffer endemic corruption while others are relatively clean, attitudes towards corruption, and even the language describing bribery, is remarkably similar around the world.
In a testament to most people's basic decency, bribe-takers and bribe-payers have developed an elaborate theatre of dissimulation. This is not just to avoid detection. Even in countries where corruption is so common as to be unremarkable and unprosecutable—and even when the transaction happens far from snooping eyes—a bribe is almost always dressed up as some other kind of exchange. Though most of the world is plagued by corruption, even serial offenders try to conceal it.
One manifestation of this is linguistic. Surprisingly few people say: “You are going to have to pay me if you want to get that done.” Instead, they use a wide variety of euphemisms. One type is quasi-official terminology. The first bribe paid by your correspondent, in Ukraine in 1998, went to two policemen so they would let him board a train leaving the country. On the train into Ukraine, the customs officer had absconded with a form that is needed again later to leave the country. The policemen at the station kindly explained that there was a shtraf, a “fine” that could be paid instead of producing the document. The policemen let him off with the minimum shtraf of 50 hryvnia ($25).
Another term widely used at border crossings is “expediting fee”. For a euphemism it is surprisingly accurate: paying it will keep your bags, and perhaps your contraband, from being dumped onto a floor and sifted through at a leisurely pace. (A related term, used in India, is “speed money”: paying it can get essential business permits issued considerably faster.)
Paul Lewis, an analyst with the Economist Intelligence Unit (a sister company to The Economist), describes the quasi-business terminology typically used for bribery in the post-communist privatisations of eastern Europe. A mostly useless but well-connected insider at the company is hired as a “consultant”. The consultant is paid a large official “fee”, nominally for his industry expertise, on the understanding that he will cut in the minister and other decision-makers.
A second type of euphemism dresses up a dodgy payment as a friendly favour done by the bribe-payer. There is plenty of creative scope. Nigerian policemen are known to ask for “a little something for the weekend”. A North African term is “un petit cadeau”, a little gift. Mexican traffic police will suggest that you buy them a refresco, a soft drink, as will Angolan and Mozambican petty officials, who call it a gazoso in Portuguese. A businessman in Iraq told Reuters that although corruption there is quite overt, officials still insist on being given a “good coffee”.
Double meaning can help soothe the awkwardness of bribe-paying. Baksheesh, originally a Persian word now found in many countries of the Middle East, can mean “tip”, “alms” and “bribe”. Swahili-speakers can take advantage of another ambiguous term. In Kenya a machine-gun-wielding guard suggested to a terrified Canadian aid worker: “Perhaps you would like to discuss this over tea?” The young Canadian was relieved: the difficulty could be resolved with some chai, which means both “tea” and “bribe”.
Brown envelopes
Along with the obscurantist language, bribe-taking culture around the world often involves the avoidance of physically handing the money from one person to another. One obvious reason is to avoid detection, which is why bribes are known as “envelopes” in countries from China to Greece. But avoidance of a direct hand-over is common even where there is no chance of detection. There will always be some officials who will take money right from a bribe-payer's hands, but most seem to prefer to find some way to hide the money from view. A bribe to a border guard may be folded into a passport. A sweetener to a traffic cop is often placed in the ticket-book that is handed to the driver. Parag Khanna, who is writing a book about countries on the edge of the rich world that are trying to get rich themselves, describes a bribe-taker he spotted in Georgia who he was sure was a rookie. Why? The scrawny young soldier, forgoing any subtleties, merely rubbed his fingers together in an age-old gesture.
Journalists are an obvious target for bribe-seekers. They often find themselves trying to get past bored, poorly paid guards and officials to see someone or something more important. Moreover, they are often foreigners—and around the world white faces, foreign passports, foreign car number plates and a few other distinguishing features are like blood in the water for those seeking a pay-off.
A journalist for a Western newspaper in Moscow was running late for an important meeting at the Kremlin for which he had waited a long while. On his way he was stopped by the traffic police for some real or invented infraction. In a hurry, the reporter negotiated a modest bribe—but found he had nothing smaller than a 1,000 rouble ($30) note in his wallet. Inspired by desperation, he agreed to pay 1,000 roubles in exchange for a ride to the Kremlin in the police car, with sirens blaring, to make sure he would be on time. The policeman tried to hold out for 1,500 roubles, but the steely nerved journalist got his ride for his offer price.
Inappropriate gifts
Journalists can be on the receiving end of bribes, too, to ensure favourable coverage. A former Africa correspondent for The Economist says that in Nigeria, one of the world's most corrupt countries, journalists are given hundreds of dollars in brown envelopes “for expenses” simply to attend press conferences. An ocean away, Armstrong Williams, an American columnist and television host, was paid $240,000 by the Department of Education to comment “regularly” on “No Child Left Behind”, an education-reform bill. He claimed that he was not a “journalist” but a “commentator”, but conceded that the deal had been ill-judged. Similarly, Maggie Gallagher, another conservative columnist, was paid to promote the Bush administration's “healthy marriage” programme. When challenged, she asked, “Did I violate journalistic ethics by not disclosing [the contract]? I don't know. You tell me.”
The Economist lays down clear rules for its journalists. An envelope stuffed with cash, much less a $240,000 contract, would be inappropriate. Any gift, says the policy, must be consumable in a single day. So a bottle of wine is acceptable, a case of wine is not.
Rich Westerners may not think of their societies as plagued by corruption. But the definition of bribery clearly differs from person to person. A New Yorker might pity the third-world businessman who must pay bribes just to keep his shop open. But the same New Yorker would not think twice about slipping the maître d' $50 to sneak into a nice restaurant without a reservation. Poor people the world over are most infuriated by the casual corruption of the elites rather than by the underpaid, “tip”-seeking soldier or functionary. Indeed, in the world's richest economy, what many see as simple bribery is an integral part of lawmaking. In Washington, DC, it is accepted that a lobbyist's generous campaign contribution to a crucial congressman may help to steer some spending to the lobbyist's client.
But proving corruption requires proving the intent to exchange one favour for another. Brent Wilkes, named as a co-conspirator in the bribery case of a Californian congressman, told the New York Times about a lesson he was taught early in his lobbying career: a cheque must never be handed over at the same time as a lobbying pitch is made. Much better to wait and do it in a hallway later. Proving intent in a courtroom is famously hard to do, so few such exchanges result in convictions. But many ordinary Americans are aware of what is going on. No surprise, then, that Congress is, by some measures, the least popular branch of government.
Yet corrupt practices in America and western Europe are nothing like as pervasive as in other parts of the world. There is no single cultural factor that inclines a society towards corruption, but economic factors play a big part. Most clearly, poverty and bribery go together.
But which causes which? Mr Wolfowitz's crusade at the World Bank is based on the idea that corrupt countries fail to develop. But several countries in Asia have grown rapidly at a time when cronyism was common, including Indonesia and South Korea in their time. Today's most conspicuous example is China with its explosive growth. Polls consistently show that corruption is the top complaint of ordinary Chinese. From time to time the Chinese government executes particularly egregious offenders, to no apparent avail. And yet foreign investors cannot pile into the country fast enough. Although most economists agree that corruption slows development, a corrupt country is nevertheless capable of rapid growth. Countries may be corrupt because they are poor, and not the other way round.
Jakob Svensson, an economist at Stockholm University, has cut through cultural stereotypes to search for hard data on corrupt economies. He has found that socialist and recently socialist economies show higher levels of corruption than others. Among the factors he has tested for correlation with corruption is the overall education level of the adult population. A second is openness to imports (measured by imports as a proportion of GDP), which is linked with opportunities for smuggling. A third is freedom of the press (as ranked by Freedom House, a civil-liberties watchdog), on the hypothesis that independent journalists will expose, and thereby curtail, corruption. The fourth is the number of days needed to start a business, a proxy for the number of permits required, and therefore red tape. Mr Svensson found clear correlations between all these variables and the overall level of corruption.
Among the many factors that determine the level of corruption in a country, one stands out. Whether it takes the shape of an American congressman dispensing a $2 trillion budget or a horde of petty officials administering a Bible-sized rulebook, where there is a lot of government, there is a lot of bribery. Corruption thus offers yet another confirmation of the dictum attributed to Thomas Jefferson that “the government is best which governs least.”
More info @ http://www.economist.com/world/displaystory.cfm?story_id=8401139
Monday, January 01, 2007
Lighting
Michelle Falkenstein writes about proper steps to protect the art work from light exposure + the challenge for museums and collectors + other viewpoints @ http://www.artnewsonline.com/issues/article.asp?art_id=806
Useful links:
www.hunterdouglas.com
http://www.nyu.edu/gsas/dept/fineart
www.chubb.com
Useful links:
www.hunterdouglas.com
http://www.nyu.edu/gsas/dept/fineart
www.chubb.com
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