By Richard W Hughes
RWH Publishing
1997 ISBN 0-9645097-6-8
Richard Hughes writes:
Many in the gemological community take a dim view of non-scientific aspects of the subject. They question the need for details on mystical beliefs, history, even the gem business itself. In the author’s view, this is not only unfortunate, but unduly restrictive. Far too many gemological treatises are clinical heartless shells, with any trace of spirit sucked out in the name of science, proper diction or decorum. Considering we are fortunate to work with one of the most romantic products on the planet, this is all the more surprising.
Godehard Lenzen has rightly pointed out that gemology is not merely a subset of mineralogy, but simply knowledge of a certain type of merchandise. I subscribe to the Lenzen view. To my way of thinking, gemology is a rich tapestry of interwoven disciplines. It’s thread include not just mineralogy, physics, chemistry, crystallography and geology, but also history, trade, economics, decorative arts, religion, mysticism and magic. Yes, even magic.
Thus, what follows is not merely the science, but also the gemology of ruby and sapphire. I hope to convey its romance, its history, its beating heart, its spirit, its magic. If I have succeeded in capturing even a portion of that magic, then this book is a success.
More info @ RWH Publishing & Books, PO Box 2015, Fallbrook, CA 92088 USA
Wednesday, February 21, 2007
Tuesday, February 20, 2007
Rainbow Calsilica
Rainbow calsilica is an eye-catching product that is suitable for beads, fetishes, cabochons, carvings and jewelry. Jewelry designers love to work with this material because of its beautiful color patterns, and it is perceived as work of art. Some gem dealers believe that the material is mined near Chihuahua, Mexico. The material is composed of calcite, but may be enhanced with artificial coloring substances and then stabilized with plastic. Rainbow silica is available in the marketplace for all to admire. If in doubt consult a reputed gem testing laboratory.
Doing Business In Brazil
World Bank / IFC writes:
Brazilian cities vary significantly in the ease of doing business, according to the new Doing Business in Brazil report. This report is the second state-level report (last year's Doing Business in Mexico was the first), and it highlights the increasing importance of state and city level reforms in a globalized world. Cities, as much as countries, are now competing for investments.
Points of interest
Compared with Mexico, Brazilian cities perform better when it comes to the cost of registering property. But despite identical regulations across Brazil, there is a wide variation in the time it takes to transfer property – less than a month in São Luís, almost three months in Campo Grande. Also difficult in Campo Grande is contract enforcement. It can take over four years, while São Paulo's 18 months is the easiest. Complying with business regulations is easiest in Brasilia, but in Belo Horizonte it takes a mere two days to create and register collateral, as compared to 45 days in Brasilia. The tax burden is heavy across Brazil, in terms of tax rates and administrative complexities. Businesses in Rio de Janeiro have one of the highest tax burdens in the world. Easing regulation and establishing a favorable business environment for entrepreneurs is key to creating jobs and equitable growth. Brazil has undertaken reforms at the national, state, and municipal level but this report suggests areas where further reforms are possible.
More info @ http://www.doingbusiness.org/main/brazil.aspx
Brazilian cities vary significantly in the ease of doing business, according to the new Doing Business in Brazil report. This report is the second state-level report (last year's Doing Business in Mexico was the first), and it highlights the increasing importance of state and city level reforms in a globalized world. Cities, as much as countries, are now competing for investments.
Points of interest
Compared with Mexico, Brazilian cities perform better when it comes to the cost of registering property. But despite identical regulations across Brazil, there is a wide variation in the time it takes to transfer property – less than a month in São Luís, almost three months in Campo Grande. Also difficult in Campo Grande is contract enforcement. It can take over four years, while São Paulo's 18 months is the easiest. Complying with business regulations is easiest in Brasilia, but in Belo Horizonte it takes a mere two days to create and register collateral, as compared to 45 days in Brasilia. The tax burden is heavy across Brazil, in terms of tax rates and administrative complexities. Businesses in Rio de Janeiro have one of the highest tax burdens in the world. Easing regulation and establishing a favorable business environment for entrepreneurs is key to creating jobs and equitable growth. Brazil has undertaken reforms at the national, state, and municipal level but this report suggests areas where further reforms are possible.
More info @ http://www.doingbusiness.org/main/brazil.aspx
The GodFather
Memorable quote (s) from the movie:
Jack Woltz (John Marley): Johnny Fontane never gets that movie. That part is perfect for him, it'll make him a big star, and I'm gonna run him out of the business - and let me tell you why: Johnny Fontane ruined one of Woltz International's most valuable proteges. For five years we had her under training - singing lessons, acting lessons, dancing lessons. I spent hundreds of thousands of dollars on her, I was gonna make her a big star. And let me be even more frank, just to show you that I'm not a hard-hearted man, and that it's not all dollars and cents: She was beautiful; she was young; she was innocent. She was the greatest piece of ass I've ever had, and I've had 'em all over the world. And then Johnny Fontane comes along with his olive oil voice and guinea charm, and she runs off. She threw it all away just to make me look ridiculous! And a man in my position can't afford to be made to look ridiculous! Now you listen to me, you smooth talking son-of-a-bitch. Let me lay it on the line for you and your boss, whoever he is. Johnny Fontane will never get that movie. I don't care how many dago guinea wop greaseball goombahs come out of the woodwork.
Jack Woltz (John Marley): Johnny Fontane never gets that movie. That part is perfect for him, it'll make him a big star, and I'm gonna run him out of the business - and let me tell you why: Johnny Fontane ruined one of Woltz International's most valuable proteges. For five years we had her under training - singing lessons, acting lessons, dancing lessons. I spent hundreds of thousands of dollars on her, I was gonna make her a big star. And let me be even more frank, just to show you that I'm not a hard-hearted man, and that it's not all dollars and cents: She was beautiful; she was young; she was innocent. She was the greatest piece of ass I've ever had, and I've had 'em all over the world. And then Johnny Fontane comes along with his olive oil voice and guinea charm, and she runs off. She threw it all away just to make me look ridiculous! And a man in my position can't afford to be made to look ridiculous! Now you listen to me, you smooth talking son-of-a-bitch. Let me lay it on the line for you and your boss, whoever he is. Johnny Fontane will never get that movie. I don't care how many dago guinea wop greaseball goombahs come out of the woodwork.
The Federal Trade Commission’s Guide for the Jewelry, Precious Metals and Pewter Industries
FTC writes:
23.26 Misuse of the words "flawless," "perfect," etc.
(a) It is unfair or deceptive to use the word "flawless" as a quality description of any gemstone that discloses blemishes, inclusions, or clarity faults of any sort when examined under a corrected magnifier at 10-power, with adequate illumination, by a person skilled in gemstone grading.
(b) It is unfair or deceptive to use the word "perfect" or any representation of similar meaning to describe any gemstone unless the gemstone meets the definition of "flawless" and is not of inferior color or make.
(c) It is unfair or deceptive to use the word "flawless," "perfect," or any representation of similar meaning to describe any imitation gemstone.
Appendix--Exemptions Recognized in the Assay for Quality of Gold Alloy, Gold Filled, Gold Overlay, Rolled Gold Plate, Silver, and Platinum Industry Products.
(a) Exemptions recognized in the industry and not to be considered in any assay for quality of a karat gold industry product include springs, posts, and separable backs of lapel buttons, posts and nuts for attaching interchangeable ornaments, metallic parts completely and permanently encased in a nonmetallic covering, field pieces and bezels for lockets,10 and wire pegs or rivets used for applying mountings and other ornaments, which mountings or ornaments shall be of the quality marked.
Note: Exemptions recognized in the industry and not to be considered in any assay for quality of a karat gold optical product include: the hinge assembly (barrel or other special types such as are customarily used in plastic frames); washers, bushings, and nuts of screw assemblies; dowels; springs for spring shoe straps; metal parts permanently encased in a non-metallic covering; and for oxfords,11 coil and joint springs.
(b) Exemptions recognized in the industry and not to be considered in any assay for quality of a gold filled, gold overlay and rolled gold plate industry product, other than watchcases, include joints, catches, screws, pin stems, pins of scarf pins, hat pins, etc., field pieces and bezels for lockets, posts and separate backs of lapel buttons, bracelet and necklace snap tongues, springs, and metallic parts completely and permanently encased in a nonmetallic covering.
Note: Exemptions recognized in the industry and not to be considered in any assay for quality of a gold filled, gold overlay and rolled gold plate optical product include: screws; the hinge assembly (barrel or other special types such as are customarily used in plastic frames); washers, bushings, tubes and nuts of screw assemblies; dowels; pad inserts; springs for spring shoe straps, cores and/or inner windings of comfort cable temples; metal parts permanently encased in a non-metallic covering; and for oxfords, the handle and catch.
(c) Exemptions recognized in the industry and not to be considered in any assay for quality of a silver industry product include screws, rivets, springs, spring pins for wrist watch straps; posts and separable backs of lapel buttons; wire pegs, posts, and nuts used for applying mountings or other ornaments, which mountings or ornaments shall be of the quality marked; pin stems (e.g., of badges, brooches, emblem pins, hat pins, and scarf pins, etc.); levers for belt buckles; blades and skeletons of pocket knives; field pieces and bezels for lockets; bracelet and necklace snap tongues; any other joints, catches, or screws; and metallic parts completely and permanently encased in a nonmetallic covering.
(d) Exemptions recognized in the industry and not to be considered in any assay for quality of an industry product of silver in combination with gold include joints, catches, screws, pin stems, pins of scarf pins, hat pins, etc., posts and separable backs of lapel buttons, springs, and metallic parts completely and permanently encased in a nonmetallic covering.
(e) Exemptions recognized in the industry and not to be considered in any assay for quality of a platinum industry product include springs, winding bars, sleeves, crown cores, mechanical joint pins, screws, rivets, dust bands, detachable movement rims, hat-pin stems, and bracelet and necklace snap tongues. In addition, the following exemptions are recognized for products marked in accordance with section 23.8(b)(5) of these Guides (i.e., products that are less than 500 parts per thousand platinum): pin tongues, joints, catches, lapel button backs and the posts to which they are attached, scarf-pin stems, hat pin sockets, shirt-stud backs, vest-button backs, and ear-screw backs, provided such parts are made of the same quality platinum as is used in the balance of the article.
Footnotes
1. The Guides for the Watch Industry, 16 CFR part 245, address watchcases and permanently attached watchbands.
2. See 23.4(c) for examples of acceptable markings and descriptions.
3.The term substantial thickness means that all areas of the plating are of such thickness as to assure a durable coverage of the base metal to which it has been affixed. Since industry products include items having surfaces and parts of surfaces that are subject to different degrees of wear, the thickness of plating for all items or for different areas of the surface of individual items does not necessarily have to be uniform.
4. A product containing 1 micron (otherwise known as µ) of 12 karat gold is equivalent to one-half micron of 24 karat gold.
5. See footnote 3.
6. Under the National Stamping Act, articles or parts made of gold or of gold alloy that contain no solder have a permissible tolerance of three parts per thousand. If the part tested contains solder, the permissible tolerance is seven parts per thousand. For full text, see 15 U.S.C. 295, et seq.
7. See footnote 3.
8. See footnote 3.
9. Under the National Stamping Act, sterling silver articles or parts that contain no solder have a permissible tolerance of four parts per thousand. If the part tested contains solder, the permissible tolerance is ten parts per thousand. For full text, see 15 U.S.C. 294, et seq.
10. Field pieces of lockets are those inner portions used as frames between the inside edges of the locket and the spaces for holding pictures. Bezels are the separable inner metal rings to hold the pictures in place.
11. Oxfords are a form of eyeglasses where a flat spring joins the two eye rims and the tension it exerts on the nose serves to hold the unit in place. Oxfords are also referred to as pince nez.
More info @ http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/guides/jewel-gd.htm
23.26 Misuse of the words "flawless," "perfect," etc.
(a) It is unfair or deceptive to use the word "flawless" as a quality description of any gemstone that discloses blemishes, inclusions, or clarity faults of any sort when examined under a corrected magnifier at 10-power, with adequate illumination, by a person skilled in gemstone grading.
(b) It is unfair or deceptive to use the word "perfect" or any representation of similar meaning to describe any gemstone unless the gemstone meets the definition of "flawless" and is not of inferior color or make.
(c) It is unfair or deceptive to use the word "flawless," "perfect," or any representation of similar meaning to describe any imitation gemstone.
Appendix--Exemptions Recognized in the Assay for Quality of Gold Alloy, Gold Filled, Gold Overlay, Rolled Gold Plate, Silver, and Platinum Industry Products.
(a) Exemptions recognized in the industry and not to be considered in any assay for quality of a karat gold industry product include springs, posts, and separable backs of lapel buttons, posts and nuts for attaching interchangeable ornaments, metallic parts completely and permanently encased in a nonmetallic covering, field pieces and bezels for lockets,10 and wire pegs or rivets used for applying mountings and other ornaments, which mountings or ornaments shall be of the quality marked.
Note: Exemptions recognized in the industry and not to be considered in any assay for quality of a karat gold optical product include: the hinge assembly (barrel or other special types such as are customarily used in plastic frames); washers, bushings, and nuts of screw assemblies; dowels; springs for spring shoe straps; metal parts permanently encased in a non-metallic covering; and for oxfords,11 coil and joint springs.
(b) Exemptions recognized in the industry and not to be considered in any assay for quality of a gold filled, gold overlay and rolled gold plate industry product, other than watchcases, include joints, catches, screws, pin stems, pins of scarf pins, hat pins, etc., field pieces and bezels for lockets, posts and separate backs of lapel buttons, bracelet and necklace snap tongues, springs, and metallic parts completely and permanently encased in a nonmetallic covering.
Note: Exemptions recognized in the industry and not to be considered in any assay for quality of a gold filled, gold overlay and rolled gold plate optical product include: screws; the hinge assembly (barrel or other special types such as are customarily used in plastic frames); washers, bushings, tubes and nuts of screw assemblies; dowels; pad inserts; springs for spring shoe straps, cores and/or inner windings of comfort cable temples; metal parts permanently encased in a non-metallic covering; and for oxfords, the handle and catch.
(c) Exemptions recognized in the industry and not to be considered in any assay for quality of a silver industry product include screws, rivets, springs, spring pins for wrist watch straps; posts and separable backs of lapel buttons; wire pegs, posts, and nuts used for applying mountings or other ornaments, which mountings or ornaments shall be of the quality marked; pin stems (e.g., of badges, brooches, emblem pins, hat pins, and scarf pins, etc.); levers for belt buckles; blades and skeletons of pocket knives; field pieces and bezels for lockets; bracelet and necklace snap tongues; any other joints, catches, or screws; and metallic parts completely and permanently encased in a nonmetallic covering.
(d) Exemptions recognized in the industry and not to be considered in any assay for quality of an industry product of silver in combination with gold include joints, catches, screws, pin stems, pins of scarf pins, hat pins, etc., posts and separable backs of lapel buttons, springs, and metallic parts completely and permanently encased in a nonmetallic covering.
(e) Exemptions recognized in the industry and not to be considered in any assay for quality of a platinum industry product include springs, winding bars, sleeves, crown cores, mechanical joint pins, screws, rivets, dust bands, detachable movement rims, hat-pin stems, and bracelet and necklace snap tongues. In addition, the following exemptions are recognized for products marked in accordance with section 23.8(b)(5) of these Guides (i.e., products that are less than 500 parts per thousand platinum): pin tongues, joints, catches, lapel button backs and the posts to which they are attached, scarf-pin stems, hat pin sockets, shirt-stud backs, vest-button backs, and ear-screw backs, provided such parts are made of the same quality platinum as is used in the balance of the article.
Footnotes
1. The Guides for the Watch Industry, 16 CFR part 245, address watchcases and permanently attached watchbands.
2. See 23.4(c) for examples of acceptable markings and descriptions.
3.The term substantial thickness means that all areas of the plating are of such thickness as to assure a durable coverage of the base metal to which it has been affixed. Since industry products include items having surfaces and parts of surfaces that are subject to different degrees of wear, the thickness of plating for all items or for different areas of the surface of individual items does not necessarily have to be uniform.
4. A product containing 1 micron (otherwise known as µ) of 12 karat gold is equivalent to one-half micron of 24 karat gold.
5. See footnote 3.
6. Under the National Stamping Act, articles or parts made of gold or of gold alloy that contain no solder have a permissible tolerance of three parts per thousand. If the part tested contains solder, the permissible tolerance is seven parts per thousand. For full text, see 15 U.S.C. 295, et seq.
7. See footnote 3.
8. See footnote 3.
9. Under the National Stamping Act, sterling silver articles or parts that contain no solder have a permissible tolerance of four parts per thousand. If the part tested contains solder, the permissible tolerance is ten parts per thousand. For full text, see 15 U.S.C. 294, et seq.
10. Field pieces of lockets are those inner portions used as frames between the inside edges of the locket and the spaces for holding pictures. Bezels are the separable inner metal rings to hold the pictures in place.
11. Oxfords are a form of eyeglasses where a flat spring joins the two eye rims and the tension it exerts on the nose serves to hold the unit in place. Oxfords are also referred to as pince nez.
More info @ http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/guides/jewel-gd.htm
The Complete Handbook For Gemstone Weight Estimation
By Charles I Carmona
Gemania Publishing Company
1998 ISBN 0-9666370-0-3
Richard Liddicoat writes:
A serious problem for all of those who are called upon to appraise or identify the gems set in various types of jewelry is first to ascertain not only the identity of the gems, but also the weight of the gems in rings, bracelets, necklaces—or other forms. Often, the nature of the mounting makes it difficult.
Charles Carmona has spent many years assembling and / or developing a remarkably comprehensive set of weight estimation formulae for mounted diamonds, colored stones and pearls—and used them to prepare detailed tables based on millimeter measurements. Those who appraise, buy, sell, insure or loan on used or estate jewelry depend on accuracy in weight estimation. Such individuals engaged in activities involving a need for accuracy in weight estimations for estate purposes, appraising, identification, pawnbroking of jewelry, or other needs should consider such detailed tables a major resource in their estimating process. Obviously most practitioners have some means of estimating the weight of common shapes, but the number of shapes included in Carmona’s tables is unusual.
Obviously, estimation tables are only substitutes for direct weighing, but when that is not an option, accurate tables become a vital tool. It is also obvious that no individual would have access to every size and shape of every gemstone included in comprehensive tables. Many sizes and shapes were measured in quartz or synthetics for the differences in specific gravity. Extrapolation was used to fill in between measured samples.
Frequent users are likely to make their own adjustments to various elements of the tables as they employ them, but their availability in such detail should prove to be exceptionally useful to many in the jewelry industry.
About the author
Charles I Carmona has been active in the mineral collecting hobby and the gem and jewelry trade for over 30 years, from prospecting and mining to gem cutting, wholesale and retail sales, and extensive experience in the appraisal of all types of gemstones and jewelry. As a consultant to attorneys, accountants, banks, government agencies and the gem and jewelry trade, his reputation as an expert has been well established. The need to accurately estimate the weights of mounted gemstones on a daily basis led to this compendium of formulas and tables.
Gemania Publishing Company
1998 ISBN 0-9666370-0-3
Richard Liddicoat writes:
A serious problem for all of those who are called upon to appraise or identify the gems set in various types of jewelry is first to ascertain not only the identity of the gems, but also the weight of the gems in rings, bracelets, necklaces—or other forms. Often, the nature of the mounting makes it difficult.
Charles Carmona has spent many years assembling and / or developing a remarkably comprehensive set of weight estimation formulae for mounted diamonds, colored stones and pearls—and used them to prepare detailed tables based on millimeter measurements. Those who appraise, buy, sell, insure or loan on used or estate jewelry depend on accuracy in weight estimation. Such individuals engaged in activities involving a need for accuracy in weight estimations for estate purposes, appraising, identification, pawnbroking of jewelry, or other needs should consider such detailed tables a major resource in their estimating process. Obviously most practitioners have some means of estimating the weight of common shapes, but the number of shapes included in Carmona’s tables is unusual.
Obviously, estimation tables are only substitutes for direct weighing, but when that is not an option, accurate tables become a vital tool. It is also obvious that no individual would have access to every size and shape of every gemstone included in comprehensive tables. Many sizes and shapes were measured in quartz or synthetics for the differences in specific gravity. Extrapolation was used to fill in between measured samples.
Frequent users are likely to make their own adjustments to various elements of the tables as they employ them, but their availability in such detail should prove to be exceptionally useful to many in the jewelry industry.
About the author
Charles I Carmona has been active in the mineral collecting hobby and the gem and jewelry trade for over 30 years, from prospecting and mining to gem cutting, wholesale and retail sales, and extensive experience in the appraisal of all types of gemstones and jewelry. As a consultant to attorneys, accountants, banks, government agencies and the gem and jewelry trade, his reputation as an expert has been well established. The need to accurately estimate the weights of mounted gemstones on a daily basis led to this compendium of formulas and tables.
Monday, February 19, 2007
Gem Artists Of North America
Gem Artists of North America is a forum for artists and professionals of the gem art industry. They offer information about gem carvers and their various techniques.
More info @ http://www.gemartists.org
More info @ http://www.gemartists.org
The Traveler
Pablo Neruda writes:
They are not so sad these stones.
Inside them lives the gold,
holding seeds of planets,
holding bells in their depths,
gauntlets of iron, marriage
of time with amethysts:
within they laugh with rubies!
they were nourished by lightning.
For what, traveler, beware
of the sadness of the road,
of the mysteries in the walls.
Much it cost me to learn
that not all is alive without,
and not all is dead within,
and that Age inscribes letters
with water and stone for no one,
so that none may know where,
so that none may understand.
They are not so sad these stones.
Inside them lives the gold,
holding seeds of planets,
holding bells in their depths,
gauntlets of iron, marriage
of time with amethysts:
within they laugh with rubies!
they were nourished by lightning.
For what, traveler, beware
of the sadness of the road,
of the mysteries in the walls.
Much it cost me to learn
that not all is alive without,
and not all is dead within,
and that Age inscribes letters
with water and stone for no one,
so that none may know where,
so that none may understand.
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