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Saturday, August 18, 2007

Ulexite

Chemistry: Hydrated borate of calcium and sodium
Crystal system: Monoclinic; fibrous.
Color: Transparent to translucent; white.
Hardness: 1 - 2
Cleavage: Perfect; Fracture: fibrous.
Specific gravity: 1.65 – 1.99
Refractive index: 1.51 mean; 0.029
Luster: Vitreous.
Dispersion:-
Dichroism: -
Occurrence: USA

Notes
Collectors stone; also known as Television Stone, for if a slab is polished with both faces at right angle to the fibers, it will transmit image as per fiber optics; used to make imitation cat’s eye effect assembled stones; fluorescence: blue green (SW); may phosphoresce.

Jewelry And Gem Program

I found an interesting link via FBI @ http://www.fbi.gov/hq/cid/jag/jagpage.htm on jewelry theft + the costs associated with gem and jewelry thefts + the popular fencing cities in the United States.

Friday, August 17, 2007

Greatest Film Directors

11. Martin Scorsese

12. Akira Kurosawa

13. Ingmar Bergman

14. John Cassavetes

15. Billy Wilder

16. Jean Renoir

17. Francis Ford Coppola

18. Howard Hawks

19. Francois Truffaut

20. Buster Keaton

Greatest Films

The films I like:

The Shawshank Redemption (1994)

One Flew Over the Cuckoo's Nest (1975)

Raiders of the Lost Ark (1981)

Citizen Kane (1941)

The Silence of the Lambs (1991)

Sunset Blvd. (1950)

It's a Wonderful Life (1946)

Apocalypse Now (1979)

To Kill a Mockingbird (1962)

The Maltese Falcon (1941)

Collapse

Good Books: (via Emergic) Jared Diamond’s Collapse: How Societies Choose to Fail or Succeed follows Guns, Germs and Steel + discusses how societies morphed through the centuries + why some became lucky and prosperous. History is a life-long school of learning...... It's a good book for everyone.

Here is an excerpt from an article by the author in The New York Times:
What lessons can we draw from history? The most straightforward: take environmental problems seriously. They destroyed societies in the past, and they are even more likely to do so now. If 6,000 Polynesians with stone tools were able to destroy Mangareva Island, consider what six billion people with metal tools and bulldozers are doing today. Moreover, while the Maya collapse affected just a few neighboring societies in Central America, globalization now means that any society's problems have the potential to affect anyone else. Just think how crises in Somalia, Afghanistan and Iraq have shaped the United States today.

Other lessons involve failures of group decision-making. There are many reasons why past societies made bad decisions, and thereby failed to solve or even to perceive the problems that would eventually destroy them. One reason involves conflicts of interest, whereby one group within a society (for instance, the pig farmers who caused the worst erosion in medieval Greenland and Iceland) can profit by engaging in practices that damage the rest of society. Another is the pursuit of short-term gains at the expense of long-term survival, as when fishermen overfish the stocks on which their livelihoods ultimately depend.

History also teaches us two deeper lessons about what separates successful societies from those heading toward failure. A society contains a built-in blueprint for failure if the elite insulates itself from the consequences of its actions. That's why Maya kings, Norse Greenlanders and Easter Island chiefs made choices that eventually undermined their societies. They themselves did not begin to feel deprived until they had irreversibly destroyed their landscape.

The other deep lesson involves a willingness to re-examine long-held core values, when conditions change and those values no longer make sense. The medieval Greenland Norse lacked such a willingness: they continued to view themselves as transplanted Norwegian pastoralists, and to despise the Inuit as pagan hunters, even after Norway stopped sending trading ships and the climate had grown too cold for a pastoral existence. They died off as a result, leaving Greenland to the Inuit. On the other hand, the British in the 1950's faced up to the need for a painful reappraisal of their former status as rulers of a world empire set apart from Europe. They are now finding a different avenue to wealth and power, as part of a united Europe.

Wine And Gems In Dijon

‘Color Sparkles: Legendary Wines and Gemstones,’ a unique exhibition of fine gems and fine wines, is being held in the Sciences Garden at the Parc de I’Arquebuse, Dijon, France, through Dec 9, 2007 + the French National Museum of Natural History with wines from the great vintners of Burgundy and beyond + wine tasting and hands-on experiments in light and color @ www.dijon.fr/fiche/eclats-de-couleruspierres-et-vins-de-legende.evt.5604.php

Performance

Peter Schjeldahl writes about Chris Burden + his conceptual art + his interpretation of art as a free spot in society, where you can do anything—anything + other viewpoints @ http://www.newyorker.com/arts/critics/artworld/2007/05/14/070514craw_artworld_schjeldahl

BHP Billiton To Market The Satellite Pipe Mine Production

Chaim Even-Zohar writes about Satellite Pipe Mine + European Diamonds Plc + the government of Lesotho + complex marketing system (s) + other viewpoints @ http://www.idexonline.com/portal_FullEditorial.asp?TextSearch=&KeyMatch=0&id=25199

Can You Identify This Stone?

(via The Canadian Gemmologist, Vol.III, No.4, Spring, 1982) . Usually I am green or greenish blue, sometimes yellow, and all too often white or grayish. They call me Bonamite sometimes when I am greenish blue. Not many gemstones have zinc in them, but I do. My R.I is 1.62 – 1.85, and I am heavier than garnet. What am I?
Answer:
Smithsonite

Ruby / Sapphire Fakes

When you are visiting gem mines or markets in Africa, South Asia, South East Asia, South America and North America, you might encounter the following stones. Gem dealers, jewelers and gemologist (s) may or may not be able to recognize the 'intruders' or 'tell-tale' signs of the fakes due to 'momentary autism', lack of knowledge or even over confidence.

I.
- Heat treated, tumbled Verneuil synthetic ruby
- Heat treated and/or ‘quench-crackled’, tumbled Verneuil synthetic ruby.
- Heat treated and/or ‘quench-crackled’, tumbled, oiled or waxed Verneuil synthetic ruby.
- Heat treated and/or ‘quench-crackled’, blue dye impregnated, tumbled Verneuil synthetic ruby.
- Heat treated tumbled Verneuil synthetic ruby with fillings + with/without colored wax.
- Heat treated, tumbled Verneuil synthetic filled with fused particles of blue sapphire.
- Heat treated, tumbled Verneuil synthetic ruby that has modified opening (s) filled with fused particles of blue sapphire.
- Natural pink sapphires rough coated with dark red nail polish.

***** May Look Like Natural Ruby Rough

II.
- Heat treated, fashioned, tumbled Verneuil synthetic ruby.
- Heat treated, fashioned, tumbled, partly blue painted Verneuil synthetic ruby.
- Heat treated and/or ‘quench-crackled’, fashioned, tumbled Verneuil synthetic ruby.
- A composite crystal containing fragments of Verneuil synthetic ruby.

***** May Look Like Ruby Crystals

III.
- Heat treated and/or ‘quench-crackled’ Verneuil synthetic ruby.

***** May Look Like Faceted Ruby

IV.
- Heat treated and/or ‘quench-crackled’ Verneuil synthetic sapphire.

***** May Look Like Faceted Sapphire

Sugilite

Chemistry: Sodium potassium ferric silicate
Crystal system: Hexagonal; massive.
Color: Opaque; light to dark violet to reddish purple (Mg); color-change (blue purple: daylight; reddish purple: incandescent light).
Hardness: 6 – 6.5
Cleavage: Fracture: granular
Specific gravity: 2.74 mean; varies.
Refractive index: 1.607 – 1.610 (1.61 mean); Uniaxial negative.
Luster: Vitreous to waxy.
Dispersion:-
Dichroism: -
Occurrence: Vein infillings intergrown with other minerals; South Africa, Nambia.

Notes
Discovered in 1976; trade names include Royal Lavulite, Royal Azel; ornamental bead, cabochon, carvings; mineralogical name: manganaoan sugilite; constants may vary due to the presence of other manganese minerals; spectrum: broad absorption at 620 and 480nm, 4 sharp bands in blue and violet.

Thursday, August 16, 2007

Feeding Your Brain: New Benefits Found In Chocolate

Julie Steenhuysen writes about the effects on the brain of flavanols, an ingredient found in cocoa + other viewpoints @ http://www.reuters.com/article/scienceNews/idUSN1836014620070218

I think it's time that chocolates are prescribed for jewelers, gemologist, lab gemologists, diamond + colored stone dealers / graders, artists + consumers, before meal (s), at least three times a day, for better blood flow to the brain when they are at work + the experts believe that chocolates could also hold promise for treating some vascular impairments. It would be an educational experieince to test diamond/colored stone (s) grade (s) before/after chocolate medication, and see if the grade (s) are consistent. If there are overlaps, you be the judge. Just do it.

Can You Identify This Stone?

(via The Canadian Gemmologist, Vol.III, No.4, Spring, 1982) My color is caused by copper and I am considered idiochromatic. If you put acid on me, I fizz like a shaken bottle of cola. Monoclinic in structure, with an R.I somewhere between 1.65 – 1.90, I am used for jewelry and for carving. What am I?
Answer:
Malachite

The End Of Poverty

Good Books: (via Emergic) Jeffrey Sachs's book The End of Poverty: Economic Possibilities for Our Time is an almost-true revelation of today's state of the world. A good book for tomorrow's entrepreneurs.

The Amazon review provides an introduction:
Celebrated economist Jeffrey Sachs has a plan to eliminate extreme poverty around the world by 2025. If you think that is too ambitious or wildly unrealistic, you need to read this book. His focus is on the one billion poorest individuals around the world who are caught in a poverty trap of disease, physical isolation, environmental stress, political instability, and lack of access to capital, technology, medicine, and education. The goal is to help these people reach the first rung on the ladder of economic development so they can rise above mere subsistence level and achieve some control over their economic futures and their lives. To do this, Sachs proposes nine specific steps, which he explains in great detail in The End of Poverty. Though his plan certainly requires the help of rich nations, the financial assistance Sachs calls for is surprisingly modest--more than is now provided, but within the bounds of what has been promised in the past. For the U.S., for instance, it would mean raising foreign aid from just 0.14 percent of GNP to 0.7 percent. Sachs does not view such help as a handout but rather an investment in global economic growth that will add to the security of all nations. In presenting his argument, he offers a comprehensive education on global economics, including why globalization should be embraced rather than fought, why international institutions such as the United Nations, International Monetary Fund, and World Bank need to play a strong role in this effort, and the reasons why extreme poverty exists in the midst of great wealth. He also shatters some persistent myths about poor people and shows how developing nations can do more to help themselves.

The Good German

Peter Schjeldahl writes about Ernst Ludwig Kirchner’s 'Berlin Street Scene' (1913-14) + other viewpoints @ http://www.newyorker.com/arts/critics/notebook/2007/08/20/070820gonb_GOAT_notebook_schjeldahl

Disharmony In The Concert

David Alan Brown writes about the differences between the styles + the metamorphic poetry and evocative power of new type (s) of painting (s) by Titian and Giorgione + other viewpoints @ http://artnews.com/issues/article.asp?art_id=2081

Greatest Film Directors

1. Alfred Hitchcock

2. D.W. Griffith

3. Orson Welles

4. Jean-Luc Godard

5. John Ford

6. Stanley Kubrick

7. Sergei Eisenstein

8. Charlie Chaplin

9. Federico Fellini

10. Steven Spielberg

Greatest Films

The films I like:

Psycho (1960)

The Purple Rose of Cairo (1985)

Raging Bull (1980)

Schindler's List (1993)

Singin' in the Rain (1952)

Some Like It Hot (1959)

Star Wars (1977)

A Streetcar Named Desire (1951)

Taxi Driver (1976)

Unforgiven (1992)

A Market Premium For Fraud

Chaim Even-Zohar writes about the side-effects of Certifigate scandal + the diamond dealer (s) concerns + the consumer (s) dilema + other viewpoints @ http://www.idexonline.com/portal_FullEditorial.asp?TextSearch=&KeyMatch=0&id=25232

Short Cuts To Certainty

(via The Australian Gemmologist, Vol.12. No.2, May 1974) B W Anderson writes:

Although in the case of rubies synthetic stones show a markedly brighter fluorescence under shortwave ultraviolet light than natural stones from Burma or Ceylon, it would be unwise to rely on this effect except perhaps as a means of indicating which stones in a large parcel should be picked out as samples for examination under microscope. In a laboratory where X-rays are available a surer distinction is provided by the prolonged red after-glow (phosphorescence) shown by synthetic rubies by whatever process these are manufactured, in contrast to the almost instantaneous extinction of the red glow in the case of natural rubies when the rays are cut off. Another useful indication where small extremely ‘clean’ synthetic rubies are concerned is afforded by placing these (in a dark room table) downwards on a sheet of slow printing paper in a flat bottomed dish, accompanied by natural Burma and synthetic rubies of similar size. Sufficient water should be added to cover the stones, and they should then be exposed for a few seconds to rays from a shortwave lamp held some two feet above the dish. The paper is then developed and, if the exposure has been correctly judged, the natural and synthetic rubies chosen as standards should show very clearly the much greater transparency of the synthetic rubies to the 2537 Å mercury radiation from the lamp, on which basis the origin of the ‘unknown’ stones under the test can be judged.

The popular type of synthetic corundum made to simulate alexandrite is usually easy to recognize by eye, and shows the curved growth lines clearly. Where there is any difficulty here, the narrow absorption line at 4750 Å in the blue forms a rapid confirmatory test.

Another useful ‘shortcut’ test between natural and synthetic stones is found in the case of red spinel. When natural red spinels are exposed to a powerful beam of blue, or longwave ultraviolet, light and the resultant red fluorescent glow is examined with the spectroscope the curious fluted series of fluorescence lines, giving an ‘organpipe’ appearance, is exceedingly distinctive and forms a complete proof that the stone is natural red spinel. Synthetic red spinels, though not common, have been made by the Verneuil and other processes, and also show a bright red fluorescence. But the spectroscope here reveals no organpipe structure but a strong line at 6850 Å with a fainter band on the shortwave side of it, giving very much the appearance of the ruby fluorescent spectrum, though the wavelengths of course are different.

Turning now to other uses of the spectroscope in providing a rapid and complete testing method, one may mention the case of white or blue or golden zircons, all of which have been heat treated in Bangkok or elsewhere. Unlike Ceylon zircons which are well-known to show a strong series of absorption bands, the lines from these heat treated stones are very narrow and faint may even be missed in transmitted light. But I have found that the strongest of the absorption lines, that a 6535 Å in the orange-red, can always be seen by internally reflected light, together with the weaker line at 6590 Å which is its companion, these two lines being completely diagnostic for zircon. This rapid test is particularly useful in confirming the presence of small rose-cut zircons simulating diamond in the surrounds of rings or brooches.

Amongst the many other distinctive absorption bands which provide valuable ‘shortcuts’ in testing, I should like to mention one other which we have found particularly useful. This I the narrow and intense band at 4370 Å in the violet which is seen in light reflected from jadeite. Though this can be seen most easily in pale green and mauve varieties of the mineral, it can also usually be detected in the better quality green jadeites if a strong enough beam of blue light is used, and the slit of the spectroscope slightly widened. Incidentally, bands in the red end of the spectrum provide the surest means of distinguishing stained from unstained green jadeite.

There are so many ways in which both the appearance of diamond and its properties are distinctive that a number of ‘shortcut’ tests must suggest themselves. But the enormous importance of diamond as a gemstone, its appearance in so many forms of jewelry, and also the never ending attempts to synthesize substances which resemble it in appearance make a knowledge of variety of definitive tests advisable.

Simplest of all, of course, is a properly conducted hardness test. A polished piece of synthetic corundum should always be at hand against which an edge or corner of a suspected diamond can be carefully but firmly applied. Diamond is the only stone, which will ‘bite’ on a sapphire surface. Any mark produced should be rubbed and examined with a lens.

Extreme transparency to X-rays is another attribute of diamond which it is useful and reliable in the experience of vantage of providing visible evidence when comparison stones of known varieties and of similar size are also shown on the same radiograph.

Another unique feature of diamond, however, can only be used in stones which have a rather strong blue fluorescence under longwave ultraviolet light, is the brief yellowish after-glow shown when the stone is removed from the rays. Some practice is needed in observing this interesting phenomenon. The eyes should be dark-adapted and the fluorescing stone, held in the cupped hands, should be removed swiftly from the rays and the eye applied at once to the small dark chamber formed by the hands. There are several gemstones which show a blue fluorescence, but of these only diamond shows a yellow after-glow.

If space allowed I could describe many further ‘shortcut’ tests for other varieties of precious stones, but those I have given above are undoubtedly amongst the most useful and reliable in the experience of myself and my colleagues in the laboratory of the London Chamber of Commerce. Most of them are already well-known, but some I hope will be new to readers and help to shorten their labors when faced with testing problems which have to be solved not only with certainty but with speed.

Dioptase

Chemistry: Hydrous copper silicate
Crystal system: Trigonal
Color: Translucent to opaque; intense greenish blue
Hardness: 5
Cleavage: Perfect: 3 directions; Fracture: conchoidal to uneven.
Specific gravity: 3.28 – 3.35
Refractive index: 1.694 – 1.709; Uniaxial positive; 0.053
Luster: Vitreous.
Dispersion: High
Dichroism: -
Occurrence: Chile, Namibia, Russia, DR Congo, USA.

Notes
Attractive emerald green color; uncut crystal clusters may be set in jewelry; faceted, cabochon.

Wednesday, August 15, 2007

Can You Identify This Stone?

(via The Canadian Gemmologist, Vol.III, No.4, Spring, 1982) I should be called the gemstone of Ireland, except that country is not my home. I am found frequently in veins of calcite or in mica schist. I have a variable S.G; my dichroism is considered to be strong; my color is very important to my value, and my R.I is rather critical in separating me from my synthetic and imitation brothers. What am I?
Answer:
Beryl, variety Emerald

On Dialogue

Good Books: (via Emergic) David Bohm's On Dialogue is on thought and dialogue in a new way. I never realized how different + inspirational the concept was till I tried it with friends. It's a good book.

David Bohm was a quantum physicist. But he also made contributions to a number of other fields. He developed a technique called Bohm Dialogue. According to Wikipedia:

Bohm Dialogue or Bohmian Dialogue is a form of free association conducted in groups, with no predefined purpose in mind besides mutual understanding and exploration of human thought. It aims to allow participants to examine their preconceptions, prejudices and patterns of thought. Bohm dialogue was developed by David Bohm, Donald Factor and Peter Garrett starting in 1983. Bohm published his views on dialogue in a series of papers between 1985 and 1991.

Bohm Dialogue (often referred to simply as Dialogue by its proponents) is conducted in groups of 20 to 40 people, who sit in a single circle. Participants "suspend" their thoughts, impulses and judgments instead of speaking from their usual point of view, they carefully analyse their thoughts. According to the proposal, Dialogue should not be confused with discussion or debate, which, says Bohm, suggests working towards a goal rather than simply exploring and learning.

David Bohm wrote:
In a dialogue, however, nobody is trying to win. Everybody wins if anybody wins. There is a different sort of spirit to it. In a dialogue, there is no attempt to gain points, or to make your particular view prevail. Rather, whenever any mistake is discovered on the part of anybody, everybody gains. Its a situation called win-win, whereas the other game is win-lose - if i win, you lose. But a dialogue is something more of a common participation, in which we are not playing a game against each other, but with each other. In dialogue, everybody wins dialogue is really aimed at going into the whole thought process and changing the way the thought process occurs collectively.

Greatest Films

The films I like:

Bonnie and Clyde (1967)

Casablanca (1942)

Chinatown (1974)

Dr. Strangelove: or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love the Bomb (1964)

E.T. The Extra-Terrestrial (1982)

The Godfather, Parts I and II (1972, 1974)

Goodfellas (1990)

On the Waterfront (1954)

Lawrence of Arabia (1962)

Miller's Crossing (1990)

Show And Tell

Kelly Devine Thomas writes about Louise Bourgeois's art + the artist's unique way of connecting with the world + other viewpoints @ http://artnews.com/issues/article.asp?art_id=2060

Dresden's World-Class Art Gallery Duplicates Itself Online

Andrew Curry writes about the virtual version of Dresden's World-Class Art Gallery via Second Life + other viewpoints @ http://www.wired.com/culture/art/multimedia/2007/08/gallery_dresden

Joining The Class

Chaim Even-Zohar writes about specific consumer class actions for illegal overpricing of diamonds against the key players in industry + other viewpoints @ http://www.idexonline.com/portal_FullEditorial.asp?TextSearch=&KeyMatch=0&id=25267

Short Cuts To Certainty

2007: B W Anderson is a giant in gemology. This is an excellent article for students, gem traders, lab gemologists and consumers. The methodology is simple and straightforward. Many in the trade do not understand lab gemologist's problems. The trade and consumers want quick results; they want lab gemologists to make god-like statements. To detect intruders in a mixed parcel of colored stones requires insight, knowledge, analytical skills and speed. This skill will come only with discipline, experience and guerilla concentration. Today's gemologists will have to be familiar with new synthetics, treated stones, and a variety of simulants very different from the 1970s.

(via The Australian Gemmologist, Vol.12. No.2, May 1974) B W Anderson writes:

The procedure when testing gemstones in a busy trade laboratory, such as that in which I spent all my professional life, must of necessity differ radically from the adopted by a student. And this difference does not depend so much on the apparatus available as upon the purpose of the exercise. The student’s chief task is to learn; the professional’s task is, above all, to identify.

For the student it is both interesting and advisable to study each specimen in an orderly and planned manner, beginning in most cases with the determination of its refractive indices on the refractometer, and continuing with a study of its inclusions under the microscope, its absorption of light by means of the spectroscope, its dichroism, and so on. There may even be time for an accurate determination of its specific gravity. By doing all this, the young gemologist becomes accustomed to handling all his instruments, and gradually learns from first-hand the properties of each gem variety. The values he measures cease to be figures in a textbook and become recognized as living attributes of the stones concerned. If his teacher is wise he will also become trained in the intelligent use of a 10x lens, which alone can be his constant companion outside the laboratory, and with which so many gemological decisions can be made without resort to more elaborate instruments.

For the laboratory gemologists, while the first essential is of an accurate appraisal of each specimen, the next and pressing necessity is for speed. Once he has achieved a conclusive result he may have to deny himself the pleasure of further examining a stone in all its fascinating aspects, and after completing his report, must pass on to the next test. So often it seems that his client is waiting to known his decision before signing a cheque to conclude a deal.

There will usually be a wide choice of test available, but, after careful preliminary inspection (which in itself may prove conclusive) the expert must decide which test or tests will provide him with a specific answer. Since commercial gem testing so often consists in distinguishing between natural and synthetic stones, the refractometer is seldom needed, which is just as well as, however carefully handled, the soft glass of that instrument soon becomes marred by scratches and must then be repolished. A refractometer on which 1000 stones have been tested will certainly need repair while, in contrast, a micrometer or spectroscope through which a hundred times that number have been examined will have suffered no ill effects.

The nature of the goods will often dictate the first step in testing quite clearly. For example, where hundreds of small rubies are submitted it will be a valid assumption that the stones are all red corundums, the point at issue being whether they are natural or synthetic. The gemologist will therefore turn first to the microscope, knowing that in the course of examination of the stones under magnification he will, as an experienced gemologist, be able to satisfy himself as to both the origin and the species. Initially the stones can be examined in the dry state suitably distributed in lines on a glass plate. Any stones which do not at once show distinctive features can be put on one side for more thorough examination, either under oil immersion or by alternative methods.

To take another instance—a parcel of stones purporting to be tourmalines. In this case the stones would clearly be destined for a refractometer test, since here the microscope would of little value since there are (thank goodness) no synthetic tourmalines yet available, and refractive index and birefringence measurements will provide the definite answer required. In passing, one may remark that in testing such stones as tourmaline, quartz or beryl, which have a low R.I, it is very advantageous to use a Rayner ‘spinel’ refractometer, since this gives easy readings to three places of decimals in ordinary white light and suffers hardly any mechanical damage.

It is much difficult to decide a plan of action where a large parcel of mixed stones is to be tested, or a brooch or necklace set with a variety of stones, as each species may well need a different approach, and it is tedious and time consuming to be moving constantly from one instrument to another. In the case of a large parcel of mixed stones it may indeed be worth while to begin by sorting the stones by eye into groups which appear to be of the same type, after which the determination of each group will be far more rapid. Where the majority of stones in a parcel or group are all of one kind there are several ways in which any ‘intruders’ may be rapidly detected. For example, when in a parcel of yellow topaz stones some citrines have intruded, a flotation test in a bromoform solution will quickly separate them, and another useful technique is to make plain any differences in refractive index by immersion in a suitable liquid. One such case was clearly demonstrated when a contact photograph was made of a necklace consisting mainly of colored tourmaline beads. In this case the necklace was immersed in bromobenzene (R.I=1.56) in a glass dish under which a slow photographic film was placed in a dark room and exposed for a few seconds to an overhead light. The print from the developed film showed clearly a thick dark outline in each of the tourmaline beads indicating that their R.I was well above 1.56, whereas the five aquamarines which were mixed in with the tourmalines nearly matched the liquid in R.I and showed hardly any outline, making them very easy to distinguish.

Sometimes the detection of ‘intruders’ may be accomplished in a quite unorthodox manner. I can remember when some 30 years ago I had to test a packet of 117 small green stones, labeled ‘dark olivines’, which a preliminary inspection revealed as being mainly demantoid garnets. Here the most rapid and positive test proved to be examination under a low power microscope. I had recently become aware of the prevalence of ‘horsetail’ asbestos fibres as an almost inevitable inclusion in demantoid garnets, and was delighted to see these most characteristic features in all but seven of the stones. These seven were then examined with a spectroscope, which enabled me to complete the test in a very short time. One stone was a ‘clean’ demantoid, two were peridots, one a green sapphire, and three were green andalusites from Brazil of that kind which show delicate absorption bands due to manganese.

Of course, even an experienced gemologist may choose a wrong approach to a problem, and is annoyed to feel that he has wasted too much time in completing a test. Mathematicians have a word for the proof of a problem which is not only sound but also rapid and incisive. They speak of such as an ‘elegant’ proof. And it is an ‘elegant’ proof that a good gemologist would always wish to choose, and which gives him real satisfaction as a craftsman and as a scientist.

In the interests of time-saving the experienced gemologist is glad to take advantage of certain features which he knows to be unique to one species or one variety of gemstone. Particularly valuable are those tests which not only determine the species of gemstone, but at the same time prove it to be natural or synthetic in origin. Such are ‘shortcuts to certainty’ referred to in the title of this article, and I will now proceed to give details of some of these which have proved of particular value in the London laboratory.

First in importance I would undoubtedly place the group of absorption bands in the blue part of the spectrum (in particular the strongest of these, at 4500 Å) which can be seen in natural sapphires. Since C J Payne and I first observed this band in 1933 we have noted its presence in many thousands of natural sapphires but never in any faceted synthetic sapphire. We thus came to regard the presence of the 4500 Å band as a valuable and undeniably proof that the stone concerned was a natural sapphire (though nowadays the possibility of a doublet consisting in part of natural sapphire must be borne in mind). The band also indicates that geographical origin of the stone to some extent, according to the content of Fe2O3 typical for each locality. Thus while Ceylon sapphires may show only a single faint and narrow band at 4500 Å, Australian stones and green sapphires show a strong and broad absorption block within which the three main bands at 4500, 4600 and 4710 Å can be discerned. Sapphires from other localities, arranged in order or increasing absorption strength, can be written thus: Burma, Kashmir, Siam, Kenya, Montana. In cases where the band is almost invisibly weak, as is often true of Ceylon stones, it is wise to confirm it by wavelength measurement to ensure that the supposed band is not a matter of imagination or wishful thinking. The Beck ‘wavelength’ spectroscope is admirable for this purpose, since the crosswires in the eyepiece can be made to traverse the spectrum by rotating a drum marked in supposed band without the observer knowing what the reading is until he looks at the scale on the drum.

Observation is greatly assisted in this part of the spectrum if the light is filtered through a flask containing strong copper sulphate solution, and, since the 4500 Å band is an ‘ordinary’ ray phenomenon, a Polaroid disc may also serve to emphasize the reality of its presence.

The 4500 Å complex is also useful in confirming that yellow sapphires from Siam (Thailand) or Australia are not synthetic corundums, as these show the bands quite strongly. In yellow sapphires from Ceylon the band is seldom visible, but here an apricot-colored fluorescence under longwave ultraviolet light is a helpful sign (as well, of course, as the inclusions which are usually present).

Looking at the problem from the synthetic side, the common reaction of synthetic blue sapphires to shortwave ultraviolet light is to show a curious whitish or greenish surface fluorescence which is so weak that it needs a darkened room and dark-adapted eyes for its observation. Since natural Ceylon sapphires have on rare occasions been known to show a similar stringent one by examining the surface of the fluorescing stone, since this frequently reveals curved structure lines, even when these are hard to see in ordinary light.

The wise gemologist will not supersede the conventional examination of sapphires under lens or microscope, which in themselves often enable him to make a sure and quick decision, but they can be enormously helpful in providing proof in the case of ‘clean’ stones showing no easily observable structures.

Short Cuts To Certainty (continued)

Variscite

(Utahlite)
Chemistry: Hydrous aluminum iron phosphate; amarice with quartz.
Crystal system: Orthorhombic; massive as nodules, cavity fillers and crusts.
Color: Semi translucent to opaque; yellow green, bluish green, greenish blue; specimens contain brownish yellow to greenish yellow matrix.
Hardness: 5
Cleavage: Perfect: 1 direction; Fracture: brittle, conchoidal.
Specific gravity: 2.55 (2.52- 2.6)
Refractive index: 1.56 mean (1.56-1.59); biaxial negative.
Luster: Massive: vitreous, dull.
Dispersion:-
Dichroism: -
Occurrence: Sedimentary (by direct deposition from phosphate-bearing water that has reacted with aluminum rich rocks in near surface environments); Australia, USA.

Notes
Sometimes called Utahlite from its USA occurrence; may look like turquoise but hardness and SG lower; spectrum: strong line at 688nm, weak line at 650nm, not diagnostic; cabochons, carvings.

Tuesday, August 14, 2007

Can You Identify This Stone?

(via The Canadian Gemmologist, Vol.III, No.3, Spring, 1982) . I am quite new as a faceted gemstone. I have been known for a long time as massive material, but only recently did they discover me in transparent crystals. I am strongly pleochroic, and crystallize in orthorhombic prisms. If I were a bit harder, I could pass muster as one of the so-called ‘precious’ gemstones. But my hardness of 6½ does not mean that I am cheap. What am I?
Answer: Zoisite, variety Tanzanite

Communities Dominate Brands

Good Books: (via Emergic) Tomi Ahonen and Alan Moore's Communities Dominate Brands: Business and Marketing Challenges for the 21st Century is about the new phenomenon in everything we do; from computing, blogging, videogaming, modified mobile phones and so on. It's an interesting book to read because it's happening quietly.

From the book description:
[It] is a book about how the new phenomenon of digitally connected and empowered customer-communities, such as blogging, videogaming and mobile phone smart mobs are emerging as a force to counterbalance the power of the business and marketing. The book discusses how disruptive effects of digitalisation and connectedness introduce threats to business opportunities. The authors compellingly illustrate how modern consumers are forming communities and peer-groups to pool their power resulting in a dramatic revolution of how businesses interact with their customers. The book explores the problems faced by branding, marketing and advertising in this decade.

Here is an excerpt from the foreword by Stephen Jones:
It is difficult to put a lens on a developing social trend moving as fast as connected communities but Alan and Tomi have done that. Together they have made a rare and important breakthrough insight, have developed a credible hypothesis and backed it up with validated supporting points. This is not radical misinformed extremist hype. This work is an accurate description of the issue, the opportunity and the crisis confronting marketers if they don’t cut loose the shackles of the traditional advertising agency and TV network model and explore the world of possibilities recommended by this book.

Move quickly but act thoughtfully, even slowly. You want to implement this without sending your organization into a tail spin. The traditional marketing company that wastes its investments solely on TV advertising is underpinned by bureaucratic values of safety, efficiency and control. The marketing group that embraces these insights and moves forward to implement them is underpinned by interdependent values of sharing, listening, equity rights, global harmony and synergy. That’s a big leap.

One of the chapters in the book is about Generation-C: Generation-C stands for the Community Generation. The defining and distinguishing characteristic for Gen-C is the continuous connection to and responding to digital communities. This is very different from any other communities. Even a die-hard 40 year old football fan of Chelsea may wear his colours every day and spend most of his free time with friends who are also fans. Yes, he is obviously a member of the Chelsea fan community. But when that Chelsea fan goes to visit his parents and suddenly gets into an argument, he is no longer a Chelsea community member. He probably will tell his Chelsea mates what happened, afterwards, next day at the pub. The difference is that a Gen-C member carries his/her community in the pocket and accesses that community at all times. Thus the young Gen-C member would share the anger and frustration of the argument with parents, within the next few minutes, via a text message to close friends...Members of Generation-C will regularly, on a daily basis, consult with friends and colleagues from their various communities. To do so, they have to have continous access to their network. They must be 'always-on' and only the mobile phone allows this.

For more, you can also read the blog by the authors.

Forger Back At Work - And This Time It's All Above Board

Hugh Muir writes about Robert Thwaites + the audacious frauds that stunned and embarrassed the art world + other viewpoints @ http://arts.guardian.co.uk/art/news/story/0,,2137637,00.html

The story reminds of treated/synthetic/imitation gemstones sold as natural in the gem and jewelry industry. Today only a very few may know to recognize the tell-tale signs; even the so-called trained gemologists and jewelers make spectacular mistakes. Rapid sight identification is a natural gift from the gods. One may be trained to describe the fine details but spotting an unnatural stone (s) at the right time require (s) more than textbook knowledge and diplomas. I think we are going to experience 'momentary autism' periodically forever.

De Beers After 2008: No Russian Rough – Forever!

Chaim Even-Zohar writes about the legal commitment between De Beers and Alrosa + the impact + other viewpoints @ http://www.idexonline.com/portal_FullEditorial.asp?TextSearch=&KeyMatch=0&id=25298

Aqua Aura

(via Wikipedia) Aqua Aura is a term used to describe a natural crystal that has been coated with gold fumes. It is created in a vacuum chamber from quartz crystals and gold vapor. The quartz is heated to 1600 degrees Fahrenheit in a vacuum, and then gold vapor is added to the chamber. The gold atoms fuse to the crystal's surface, which gives the crystal an iridescent metallic sheen. The process was awarded the United States Patent No. 6997014 on Feb 14, 2006. The process was invented by Steven F. Starcke, Ronald H. Kearnes and Keven E. Bennet. While the patent might have been given in 2006, this material has been produced by this method for dozens of years prior.

The patent says "The invention provides a decorative object comprising a transparent or translucent substrate having a body and at least one surface bearing a thin film coating. The coating imparts in the substrate a body color that appears substantially constant at different angles of observation. This body color is imparted in the substrate at least in part by absorption of visible radiation that is transmitted through said coating. The coating includes a high absorption layer comprising film that is highly absorptive of visible radiation. Also provided are methods of coating gems and other decorative objects, as well as methods of heat treating coated gems and other decorative objects."

Aqua Aura is a very popular item in metaphysical items and a popular item in jewellery. It is the exact same process that is used to coat steel balls used as bearings. The term Aqua aura specifically is used for the blue colored quartz. Additional elements can be used to treat quartz, such as indium, titanium and copper. The coloring of this treatment is only on the surface, so all faceted and polished material you find has been treated after it has been made originally. Often, quartz of lesser quality, with fractures and weak spots, will break apart during the coating process.

A little known fact is that the Aqua aura treatment can be used to reveal twinning in quartz crystals that would otherwise go undetected. While most all treated quartz is destined for the metaphysical marketplace, it does have a use in the field of mineralogy. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aqua_aura)

Aqua Aura treated quartz or topaz could be visually confused for heat treated zircons because the prominent iridescence in treated specimens may be confused for dispersion. Standard gemological tests such as refractive index, birefringence and specific gravity should easily identify the stones. Also cobalt-doped blue synthetic quartz may look very similar to Aqua Aura treated stones. In this case Chelsea color filter reaction and absorption spectrum should easily provide diagnostic results; as the synthetic quartz will show pink through the Chelsea color filter + cobalt absorption spectrum. Aqua Aura treated topaz may be confused for irradiated blue topaz. In the case of quartz and topaz the unnatural iridescence is the indicator + magnification. The absence of pleochroism is also another indicator. Another interested aspect is when you study the treated quartz + topaz under proper magnification you may notice dark color concentrations of color along facet junctions + the uneven coloration very similar to blue diffusion-treated sapphires. Buyer beware!

Tugtupite

(Reindeer Stone)
Chemistry: Sodium aluminum beryllium silicate
Crystal system: Tetragonal; massive allied to sodalite; crystals rare.
Color: Various shades of red, from pale pink to violetish red and violet; may contain black needles or yellow spots; transparent materials rare, facetable material also found.
Hardness: 6.5
Cleavage: Massive: none; Fracture: granular
Specific gravity: 2.3 – 2.57; 2.3 depending on porosity and other minerals present.
Refractive index: 1.496 – 1.502; Uniaxial positive; 0.006 (0.004-0.006)
Luster: Vitreous to greasy
Dispersion:-
Dichroism: Bluish red; orange red
Occurrence: Red angular masses in Albite-rich hydrothermal veins; Greenland, Russia.

Notes
Found in 1960; ornamental stone may resemble rhodochrosite; massive is mottled white with shades of red; fluorescence: orange (LW), salmon (SW), bright red (UV); cabochon, carvings, beads.

Monday, August 13, 2007

Can You Identify This Stone?

(via The Canadian Gemmologist, Vol.III, No.3, Spring, 1982) I am a calcium aluminum silicate, crystallizing in the tetragonal system, and occurring in various colors. I am most often seen in a massive form, sometimes masquerading as a much more expensive green gemstone. They give me quite a variety of names, and one of them sounds like a famous volcano. What am I?
Answer:
Vesuvianite (Idocrase)

The New Wave Of Silicon Valley Start-ups

New Business Model (s): Spencer Kelly writes about Silcon Valley's new breed of entrepreneurs + modified mash-ups with interactive content (s) + green innovations + other viewpoints @ http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/programmes/click_online/6929569.stm

Capitalism At The Crossroads

Good Books: (via Emergic) Stuart Hart's book, Capitalism at the Crossroads: The Unlimited Business Opportunities in Solving the World's Most Difficult Problems highlights the nature of challenges for multinational companies + development of native capabilities + the concept of leadership genius to innovation + its results. An interesting book.

Stuart Hart writes in the prologue:
In a single lifetime, the human population will have grown from two billion to eight billion. This growth is truly unprecedented. Never before in human history has a single generation witnessed such explosive change. It seems self-evident, therefore, that the policies we adopt, the decisions we make, and the strategies we pursue over the next decade will determine the future of our species and the trajectory of our planet for the foreseeable future. That is an awesome responsibility, to say the least. It is also a huge opportunity.

One of the chapters has a discussion on HLL:
Unilever's Indian subsidiary, Hindustan Lever Limited (HLL), provides an interesting glimpse of the development of native capabilities in its efforts to pioneer new markets among the rural poor. HLL requires all employees in India to spend six weeks living in rural villages, actively seeks local consumer insights and preferences as it develops new products, and sources raw materials almost exclusively from local producers. The company also created an R&D center in rural India focused specifically on technology and product development to serve the needs of the poor. HLL uses a wide variety of local partners to distribute its products and also supports the efforts of these partners to build local capabilities. In addition, HLL provides opportunities and training to local entrepreneurs and actively experiments with new types of distribution, such as selling via local product demonstrations and village street theaters.

By developing local understanding, building local capacity, and encouraging a creative and flexible market entry process, HLL has been able to generate substantial revenues and profits from operating in low-income markets. Today more than half of HLL's revenues come from customers at the base of the economic pyramid. Using the approach to product development, marketing, and distribution pioneered in rural India, Unilever has also been able to leverage a rapidly growing and profitable business focused on low-income markets in other parts of the developing world. Even more important, through its new strategy, HLL has created tens of thousands of jobs, improved hygiene and quality of life, and become an accepted partner in development among the poor themselves.

And Now Lot 403: The Old Master Worth £5m. Do I hear £300?

Charlotte Higgins writes about an 18th-century continental school, half-length portrait of an aesthete + the bidding war + the painting's quality + the game of authentification + the intrigue + other viewpoints @ http://arts.guardian.co.uk/art/news/story/0,,2128906,00.html

When I read the story it reminded me of high profile stones like diamond, ruby, blue sapphire, emerald with origin report at auction houses + the endless game of hide and seek with prices by the real players + the knowledgeable, ignorant or just plain lucky buyers and sellers + the real drama. It's a theatrical experience watching the bidders at an auction event: a real movie.

Thy Neighbor's Laundry

Chaim Even-Zohar writes about two countries: Belgium and Netherlands + Utrecht School of Economics report on money laundering + other viewpoints @ http://www.idexonline.com/portal_FullEditorial.asp?TextSearch=&KeyMatch=0&id=25323

On Getting Up Early In The Morning

2007: This is a fascinating story about Harry Winston + his personal operating system. You’ve got to keep your eyes and ears open in gem identification + business. There are many lessons one can learn from the real events.

(via The Australian Gemmologist, Vol.11, No.10, Serial No.97, May 1973): A N Wilson’s interview with the famous dealer and gem personality, Harry Winston.

Harry Winston is sitting at his desk, loupe in his fingers. He is musing aloud: ‘You know, there’s always a client for something big or wonderful in the way of diamonds. I told you last year about Ibn Saud but there was something more I didn’t tell you then. I was in Geneva and Ibn Saud was on holiday somewhere in the vicinity. He called at my office and I did some very good business with him—something like $3,000,000 worth of diamond and other jewelry. I delivered all the jewelry to his residence myself and was waiting there for his cheque when one of his aides came to me and said the King had just asked whether I happened to have any diamond bracelets available at my office in Geneva. If so, he’d be interested in having half a dozen. I replied that I thought I could help in this direction. The aide then said the King was flying off at eight o’clock the following morning and the bracelets would have to be delivered to him before then. I telephoned my office and told them what was afoot and asked them to set out whatever they had in the way of diamond bracelets. I motored back to my office. There I found the office staff had dutifully put out five or six diamond bracelets selected from those that were available.

‘I called the staff to my office and said: ‘Have you no imagination?’ I had the whole range of diamond bracelets available set out and then had then carefully parceled and ready for display at the King’s residence. The staff then asked me about delivery. ‘You are surely not going to get up at four or five in the morning to take them out yourself?’ they said. I said to them: ‘Look, boys, I’m going myself with these fifty five bracelets. That’s the way to conduct business.’

‘So I got up that morning and took the bracelets with me to the King’s residence. When I arrived the aide told me the King was getting dressed, but would look at the bracelets over breakfast and make his choice. A little later the aide came down to tell me that the King would buy the lot at a price. The price was arranged. The King went off in his aircraft and I went back to my office. The staff was stunned when, the following day, a message came through from Ibn Saud saying that he now found he was short of 25 bracelets and asking me to send him these. Can you blame me if I read a little homily to my staff about how, be getting up early in the morning, you can convert a sale of six bracelets into eighty? A good lesson for any young person in the diamond business!’

Harry Winston chuckled as he remembered another story. ‘You’ve got to keep your eyes open at this business,’ he said. ‘One day a bank director called me up to say that a very distinguished and important client had a collection of jewels he wanted to sell. Would I do him as well as possible? Well the distinguished bank client duly arrived and he spread his collection of diamonds on the table. I looked at them very briefly and said abruptly. ‘Take them away, please!’ I had seen immediately that most of the diamonds were paste but I was not prepared to tell him so. ‘No, I’m not interested,’ I said, “I can’t give you a valuation. I can’t give you a price. I think you ought to go elsewhere.’ He gathered up his pieces in frustration and anger and said he would, indeed, go elsewhere. He said harshly that I had not even looked at them: that here was an emerald worth at least 150,000 dollars on its own and there was a beautiful pearl necklace. I insisted that I was not interested. He went away. Some time later he came back to see me. ‘I’ve come to apologize,’ he said, ‘because it now turns out that my wife must have had maids who took advantage of our traveling all over the place from time to time and they substituted imitations for the real things. We’ve been robbed. I’m sorry that it would appear on the face of it that I tried to defraud you.’

‘Of course, that was not true at all. What was true was that his wife had a very expensive boy friend. My visitor’s special anxiety was that I should not report what had happened to his bank director. I assured him I did not discuss business affairs with anybody else. As those who were then concerned are now all dead, I am at liberty to tell this sad little story.’

Tremolite

Chemistry: Calcium magnesium silicate
Crystal system: Monoclinic; in compact mass as nephrite; long bladed crystals; fibrous aggregates often radiated; twinning common.
Color: Transparent to opaque; hexagonite: rare pink variety (Mg); phenomenon: greenish chatoyancy: tremolite cat’s eye.
Hardness: 6.5 - 6
Cleavage: Good: in 2 directions; fracture: brittle, uneven.
Specific gravity: 2.976; 2.98
Refractive index: 1.62 mean; 1.60 – 1.63; 0.027.
Luster: Vitreous.
Dispersion:-
Dichroism: -
Occurrence: In metamorphosed dolomites or ultrabasic rocks; Burma, Taiwan, Canada, USA.

Notes
An end member in the tremolite-actinolite series of the amphibole group; transparent specimens faceted; translucent to opaque specimens carved or cut cabochon.

Sunday, August 12, 2007

From Russia With Love

Idexonline profiles Russia, the world’s second largest producer of rough diamonds + the expansion and development of domestic cutting and polishing operations + the export markets + the domestic jewelry industry + other viewpoints @ http://www.idexonline.com/portal_FullMazalUbracha.asp?id=27889

Can You Identify This Stone?

(via The Canadian Gemmologist, Vol.III, No.3, Spring, 1982) I am green in color and considered idiochromatic. I contain iron as an important part of my chemical composition. I am comparatively soft and belong to the orthorhombic system. I have a distinctive cleavage parallel to my vertical axis, a lowest R.I of 1.654 and a birefringence of 0.036. My absorption spectrum shows a broad band at 435nm and bands at 492 and 473nm. What am I?
Answer: Peridot

The Google Legacy

Good Books: (via Emergic) Stephen E. Arnold's e-book entitled The Google Legacy: How Google's Internet Search is Transforming Application Software provides insights + future virtual applications via modified technological applications. I think the new simplied technology will open more surprises and opportunities for everyone in the coming years. Try it and see.

Here is an excerpt from the introduction on Arnold's site:
What kind of company is Google? The world mostly knows this high-flying, publicly traded West Coast company as the upstart that revolutionized search.

Wrong, says Stephen Arnold in this new ebook: Google is much more. New, radical and overlooked, Google is this era's transformational computing platform and could be about to unseat Microsoft from its throne.

Google is not just about search: search is merely one application you can load on its processor. Although Google has been releasing a series of separate application programs, the company is starting to assemble the mosaic pieces into a bigger picture. Its future will be about leveraging its innovative hardware/software infrastructure. In so doing, just as Microsoft replaced IBM, Google promises to replace Microsoft as Network Computing comes of age.

Written for business readers, especially senior executives of mid to large-sized, knowledge-based corporations, The Google Legacy places Google under a microscope, dissects Google's technology, evaluates its potential and determines that Google's future lies beyond search. Three appendices provide lists of Google patents, publishers who have indicated some type of relationship with Google, and universities working with Google-information that, according to the author, Google has sought to keep under wraps.

Information Week wrote recently:
Dig deeper into Google, dig into its software and engineering patents and you’ll find a roadmap for its future, says an author and online systems specialist, who believes the patents also spell bad news for Microsoft if the tech world moves to a new Google-dominated network paradigm.

Google really doesn’t hide things, said Stephen E. Arnold, who has written a book on his one-year odyssey studying the search firm. Bill Gates is basically in the same spot he had IBM in. IBM was challenged by Microsoft and IBM didn’t understand Microsoft’s business model. It’s history repeating itself.

Arnold, author of The Google Legacy, said in an interview, that it appears that Microsoft doesn’t understand Google in much the same way that IBM didn’t understand Microsoft 20 years ago. It will be the Googleplex from 2004 to 2020 a network paradigm, said Arnold. It will be enabled by Google’s approach to innovation....These patents suggest that Google is looking beyond search, possibly targeting such companies as Microsoft, as Google tries to become the leading info tech company of the 21st Century, he said.

Ordinary People

Peter Schjeldahl writes about Edward Hopper + his greatest hits + his unique way (s) of connecting with his world @ http://www.newyorker.com/arts/critics/artworld/2007/05/21/070521craw_artworld_schjeldahl

For Immediate Sale: Exclusive Purchasing Rights Of Attractive Diamond Production

Chaim Even-Zohar writes about the most important event in the world for exploration – bringing together global participants to learn and share new technologies and exploration methods, business trends, investment issues, geology, international opportunities and exploration successes + other viewpoints @ http://www.idexonline.com/portal_FullEditorial.asp?TextSearch=&KeyMatch=0&id=25365

The Determination Of The Weight Of A Set Stone By Hydrostatic Weighing

2007: I tried it; it works.

(via The Australian Gemmologist, Vol.18, No.5, February 1993) R K Mitchell writes:

Another gemological tip arising from our earlier discussion of hydrostatic weighing is the fact that it is by no means a waste of time to do a hydrostatic on a stone in a mount. How often are we called upon to estimate the weight of set stone for insurance purposes or with a view to buying it in over the counter? Various methods have been advocated from plain guesswork, to gauges of greater or lesser efficiency, to comparison with stones of a known weight, to weighing another mount to get somewhere near the weight of the one in question, or even to measuring the stone in all its dimensions and working out a weight using complicated mathematical formulae to obtain an approximation. Some of these might work, but there is a risk of getting hopelessly wrong answers to what should be simple enough question even when we cannot get permission to unset and weigh the stone separately.

In the past I have been offered a peridot ring with the remark that it ‘must weigh over 12 carats’ and have found myself in possession of a nice stone of over 26 carats. A star sapphire offered at ‘about 15 carats’ estimated weight, turned out to be around 35 carats when I took it out of its setting. Such inexact guesses are quite unnecessary and are very dangerous to the jeweler if he is valuing the stone. The answer lies in doing an ordinary hydrostatic weighing, a matter of a few minutes only.

Simply weigh the whole item in air and then weigh it again in water. Subtract the second weight from the first to find the total loss of weight.

Then, if we already know what the stone is (from its RI) and the nature and quality of the metal (hallmark), it is very easy to arrive at a weight for either the stone or for the mount by simple calculation. First assume that the whole ring is composed of stone and multiply the stone’s SG by the loss of weight. Deduct this figure from the total weight of the piece and that will give us the extra weight due to the greater density of the metal used. Divide this figure by the known SG of the metal less the SG of the stone.

Specific gravity of precious metals

Yellow gold
9 ct=11.2
14 ct= 14.1
18 ct= 15.5

White gold
9 ct= 12.0
14 ct= 12.9
18 ct = 16.1

Platinum
= 21.4
Silver = 10.3

Victorian gold mounts with silver settings are usually 15 ct gold, so an SG figure of 12 would be a fair approximation, but the method is a little less accurate with such mounts.

This gives us the loss of weight due to the mount alone. Subtract this from the total loss of weight to find the loss due to the stone only, and multiply the result by the SG of the stone. This sounds complicated, but it is nothing of the kind. Try it and see. The longest part is the weighing and even that should not take more than a few minutes.

To give you an actual example:
An aquamarine (SG=2.70) and 18ct gold (SG=15.5) ring weighs 35.32 cts.
In water it weighs 28.75 carats
Loss of weight = 6.57 carats
If all aquamarine then weight would be 6.57 x 2.70 = 17.74
Extra weight due to gold = 35.52 – 17.74 = 17.58.
So loss of weight of mount is 17.58 divided by 15.5 – 2.7 = 1.37.
So loss of weight due to the stone is 6.57 – 1.37 = 5.20.
Weight of the stone is then 5.20 x 2.70 = 14.04 carats.

There are very minor differences in the SG of a gem species from stone to stone, and rather greater differences in the SG of gold of a given caratage (bullion dealers for this reason usually quote only to one place of decimals). But this method can usually be relied upon to give an answer well within 10% of the true weight of a stone. Where there are a few small diamonds included in the design one obviously needs to take these into account at the end of the main calculation by deducting say half a carat from the estimated weight of the main stone. Most jewelers are expert at estimating the weight of small diamonds by sight and should have little difficulty in making a reasonable correction for this situation. The method only really comes to grief when a mass of large stones of mixed species are found in one mount, and even then some guidance can be obtained from the exercise if it is used intelligently.

Taaffeite

Chemistry: Beryllium magnesium aluminate.
Crystal system: Hexagonal; trapezohedral.
Color: Transparent; red, pink, blue, mauve, green.
Hardness: 8
Cleavage: -
Specific gravity: 3.613
Refractive index: 1.718 – 1.723; Uniaxial negative; 0.004
Luster: Vitreous
Dispersion: -
Dichroism: -
Occurrence: Sri Lanka, China, Tanzania.

Notes
First discovered in 1945 by Count Taaffe; rare collector’s stone; appearance and values close to spinel but distinguished by birefringence; fluorescence: green in UV; faceted.

Saturday, August 11, 2007

The Emperor's New Clothes

Memorable quote (s) from the movie:

The Emperor (Sid Caesar): How do you spin a thread out of a solid diamond?

Henry Dispenser (Robert Morse): Ah! That is a family secret!

Can You Identify This Stone?

(via The Canadian Gemmologist, Vol.III, No.3, Spring, 1982) . I come in a variety of colors, almost any color in fact, though most people think of me as a green stone which is relatively inexpensive. I frequently show strong dichroism. In rough crystals, I am quite strongly striated parallel to the c-axis. They call me a hemimorphic crystal. What am I?
Answer: Tourmaline

The Search: How Google And Its Rivals Rewrote The Rules Of Business And Transformed Our Culture

Good Books: (via Emergic) It's really amazing how search has become part of our life + today the concept is embedded in our modified lifestyle (for good or worse) + the book The Search: How Google and Its Rivals Rewrote the Rules of Business and Transformed Our Culture is a modified anthropological metamorphism of search + it also describes new ways of staying connected. A must-read book.

Amazon.com's review states:
This ambitious book comes with a strong pedigree. Author John Battelle was a founder of The Industry Standard and then one of the original editors of Wired, two magazines which helped shape our early perceptions of the wild world of the Internet. Battelle clearly drew from his experience and contacts in writing The Search. In addition to the sure-handed historical perspective and easy familiarity with such dot-com stalwarts as AltaVista, Lycos, and Excite, he speckles his narrative with conversational asides from a cast of fascinating characters, such Google's founders, Larry Page and Sergey Brin; Yahoo's, Jerry Yang and David Filo; key executives at Microsoft and different VC firms on the famed Sandhill road; and numerous other insiders, particularly at the company which currently sits atop the search world, Google.

The Search is not exactly the corporate history of Google. At the book's outset, Battelle specifically indicates his desire to understand what he calls the cultural anthropology of search, and to analyze search engines' current role as the "database of our intentions"--the repository of humanity's curiosity, exploration, and expressed desires. Interesting though that beginning is, though, Battelle's story really picks up speed when he starts dishing inside scoop on the darling business story of the decade, Google. To Battelle's credit, though, he doesn't stop just with historical retrospective: the final part of his book focuses on the potential future directions of Google and its products' development. In what Battelle himself acknowledges might just be a "digital fantasy train", he describes the possibility that Google will become the centralizing platform for our entire lives.

The most fascinating chapter in the book is the last one, where Battelle looks to the future.

Here is an excerpt which Battelle posted on his blog from the chapter entitled Perfect Search:
In the near future, search will metastasize from its origins on the PC-centric Web and be let loose on all manner of devices. This has already begun with mobile phones and PDAs; expect it to continue, virus-like, until search is built into every digital device touching our lives. The telephone, the automobile, the television, the stereo, the lowliest object with a chip and the ability to connect - all will incorporate network-aware search.

This is no fantasy; this is simple logic. As more and more of our lives become connected, digitized, and computed, we will need navigation and context interfaces to cope. What is TiVo, after all, but a search interface for television? ITunes? Search for music. That box of photographs under your bed and the pile of CDs teetering next to your stereo? Analog artifacts, awaiting their digital rebirth. How might you find that photo of you and your lover on the beach in Greece from fifteen years ago? Either you scan it in, or you lose it to the moldering embrace of analog obscurity. But your children will have no such problems; their photographs are already entirely digital and searchable - complete with metadata tagged right in (date, time, and soon, context).

The Search game has just begun. With it, we have seen a new business model emerge contextual advertising with pay-per-click. The recent announcement by Microsoft about making its applications available over the Web as services, in part paid for by advertising, takes the revolution started by Google even further. The combination of broadband and mobile networks is creating a new world. While Battelle's book may not answer questions about who will be tomorrow's winners (other than Google), it does a great job in laying out the story of Search and a company which today threatens incumbents across many industries by making the right information available at the right time.

Spray The Ketchup, Fling The Lettuce

David Galloway writes about John Bock’s interdisciplinary fusion of language, fashion, film, video, performance, and installation + his specialty in 'suitcase performances' + his work (s) that has a character of its own + other viewpoints @ http://artnews.com/issues/article.asp?art_id=2038

The Travels Of A Lady-Wearing-Rough Into A Legal Kimberley Process Hole

Chaim Even-Zohar writes about creative ways of smuggling large rough diamonds + Kimberley Process Certification Scheme's (KPCS) oversight + a new look in the rough diamond jewelry + other viewpoints @ http://www.idexonline.com/portal_FullEditorial.asp

Some Aspects Of Fraud

2007: With the spread of gemology you think most if not all of these tricks should never succeed, but to tell you the truth, today, it does. Synthetic, treated, and imitation gemstones have just become too sophisticated (there are many) + gem testing laboratories are in dilema describing what they see, especially with treatments (nearly all colored stones are treated one way or the other), because they need the trade as well as the consumers to function as a business + gem dealers and jewelers have no time/patience sitting with gem testing instruments to identity/sell their merchandise, because the pereception is if you think like a gemologist you won't be able to buy/sell colored stones, so they leave it to the trade/independant laboratories + the so-called experts for their opinion, and this is where opinions may go right/wrong/misinterpreted + the well-trained fraudsters are also familiar with gemology, treatments, synthetics and imitations + its limitations so they become adept playing their game.

(via The Journal of Gemmology, No.1, Vol.1, January 1947) Robert Webster writes:

Value is an essential concomitant of that type of criminal offence which the legal mind terms ‘stealing by false pretences’ and the jeweler trading in precious stones is a fitting target for this type of trickery. The following notes, based on factual reports and personal experiences, may make interesting and informative reading, and may in some measure prevent others suffering loss through the same pitfalls. Although all the episodes mentioned may not have been fraudulently conceived, most would have, or had, the stricture of the law upon them.

Perhaps it would be wise to remark that no trick of this nature would be effective unless some preparation in the way of the gaining of confidence were first engendered. To walk into a shop, place a four carat zircon on the counter and say ‘I want £700 for this diamond’ would not get a rogue very far with hard-headed businessman of today; but with confidence established suspicion is lulled and almost anything may happen. Indeed, it can be given as an axiom that one is never caught except when haste is the ‘jade’ a ‘breezy’ type of personality or pretty face and a trim figure be the distraction, or when the desire for profit overcomes commonsense.

It is fitting that the diamond be the first stone to consider, for that is the gem most handled by the jeweler and the most likely to be the stone whose simulation leads to chicanery. The substitution of a diamond by a paste imitation does not, at first sight, appear a likely cause of loss, for only an imitation jeweler would come to grief with this fake; it is the amateur who falls for a piece of glass. What member of the trade has not heard of the wonderful bargain bought in a public house for a song? Inevitably it is the jeweler who has the unenviable task of supplying the denouement.

Most jewelers have encountered false diamonds which they glibly term ‘jargoons’ ‘doublets’ or ‘white sapphires’, often totally unaware of the correct interpretation of the names they use. In most of these cases the fake has been the colorless zircon which owes its lack of color to heat treatment and has a high dispersion. Exhibited in a ‘half light’, such stones do show an appreciable resemblance to diamond—providing one does not look for the strong double refraction. Time and time again these zircons have caught the unwary, often the same operator working the same fraud for months on end until Nemesis finally overtakes him.

The diamond doublet, although so often mentioned, does not appear to be so prevalent as is generally supposed. Of three authentic cases known to the writer, one consisted of a crown of true diamonds and a base of glass; in another the base was probably rock crystal; the third, a stone with a two carat spread and mounted with ‘roman’ or ‘gipsy’ setting in a heavy gold ring, caused the jeweler who bought the ring (as dusk, when the light was bad) to lose many pounds. This stone, which the leaders of the jewelry trade considered to be such a dangerous fake that they instituted a ‘broadcast’ caution, was found to have a base of synthetic white spinel.

It is doubtful whether the synthetic white sapphire has ever caused much difficulty, but mention must be made of the artificially produced colorless spinel, if only to comment on the journalistic enthusiasm which caused the ‘diamond scare’ of 1935. These ‘Jourado diamonds’ generally ‘emerald cut’, a style which was then beginning to be favored for diamonds, did momentarily cause confusion, but only for the few hours before the report of the Laboratory Experts was published by press and radio. That these synthetic white spinels have not been entirely neglected by the unscrupulous is recalled by the recent conviction of the Dutchman, Winnser, but this probably more in the nature of substitution than in direct simulation.

Comparatively early in the writer’s career he met with the ‘painted’ diamond. Shown a single stone diamond ring which had been pledged by a gentleman prominent in the theatrical profession, he noticed something ‘not quite right’ about the stone, but lack of experience precluded a definite reason. The opinion of an experienced diamond broker confirmed this suspicion; he washed the stone in hot water, thereby removing the dye from the rear facets, and returned an off-colored yellowish diamond instead of the ‘white’ stone submitted to him. The method used to restore the stone to a white color need not be considered here.

It is questionable whether the inducing of a green color in a diamond by radium emanations, so easily detected by autophotography and spinthariscopic observation, can be called fraudulent, for in the case of the heat treatment of zircons and topazes and the staining of agate, the alteration of hue is not considered to be wrong providing the stone is sold as such; but how often is the radium-treated diamond so sold?

Although having little application to the retail jeweler, the imitation of diamond crystals goes to show to what length the crook fraternity will go in their endeavor to make money by fraud. There have been three authentic cases of ‘diamond octahedra’ which had been found to have been artificially shaped from base material. In two of these cases the material used was synthetic colorless corundum, and for the third case colorless quartz was used.

Most jewelers, knowing all too well the synthetic production of the corundum gems, ruby and sapphire, are wary of dealing with such stones unless they have sound reasons or are backed by a laboratory report, and it is rare that loss is occasioned by such an artifice. That fraud can occur, even with an experienced trader, was made apparent recently when a three-stone ruby ring was bought for some hundred of pounds, it being discovered later that the most important center stone was synthetic.

With respect to emerald, the most likely cause of trouble is surely the composite stone better known as the soude’ emerald, but despite the undoubted fine effect of this counterfeit, the writer cannot recall a single case of fraud involving this stone. The true synthetic emerald which is now being made in America has as yet not invaded this country, and when it does, as surely it will, more care still will be required by the members of our trade.

The painting of the rear facets of pale rubies, sapphires and emeralds in order to enhance their color is too patent and too well known to cause much difficulty, and the same may be said for the older type of garnet-topped doublets. The imitation of the alexandrite by the synthetic version of corundum and spinel does not now appear to worry the trade as it has done in the past, nor, for that matter, do the opal doublets; on the other hand, the orange red synthetic corundum, sometimes called the ‘padparadshca’ is still confused with the fire opal by some people less informed than their neighbors.

Before bringing these few notes to a close, reference must be made to gem pearl, for although the cultured pearl is so well known and so difficult in some cases to detect at sight, that risk is rarely taken. It is with the black pearl that trouble may occur, for artificial coloration may be particularly good, and, rather surprisingly, that hoary textbook fake, the polished hematite sphere, has quite recently shown itself. What probably was the most unusual fake that the writer came across was a necklace of pink beads, bought as coral, which turned out to be vegetable ivory appropriately stained.

With the spread of the science of gemology, most, if not all of these tricks should never succeed, and those enemies of society who perpetuate them be forever put out their nefarious business—but for the frailty of human nature.

Stichtite

Chemistry: Hydrated carbonate, hydroxide of magnesium and chromium (an alteration product of chrome serpentine)
Crystal system: Trigonal; massive/aggregates.
Color: Purple, purplish red, lilac; may be veined with green serpentine.
Hardness: 1.5 -2
Cleavage: Perfect: basal; fracture: splintery.
Specific gravity: 2.15 – 2.22
Refractive index: 1.53 mean; Uniaxial negative.
Luster: Greasy or waxy.
Dispersion: -
Dichroism: Dark red to light red.
Occurrence: In serpentine rocks associated with chromite; Algeria, South Africa, Tasmania, Canada.

Notes
Decomposition product of chrome serpentine, veined with green; occasionally cut for collectors; distinct chrome spectrum – 3 bands in red between 635 – 630nm; cabochon, beads.

Friday, August 10, 2007

What Am I?

(via The Canadian Gemmologist, Vol.III, No.3, Spring 1982) In my pure form I am white, but you seldom see me that way except as a synthetic. Usually I have color, and that color varies considerably. Sometimes I fluoresce brightly, sometimes not. I don’t have a very high dispersion, so people buy me primarily for my color. I have a good luster, I am durable, and my specific gravity is higher than most run-of-the-mill gems. What am I?
Answer:
Corundum

Wine Economics

The Economist writes about the relationship between the price of a bottle of wine and its taste + the perception of price of wine based on colour, ranking and vintage, rather than simply by taste and smell @ http://www.economist.com/finance/displaystory.cfm?story_id=8031377

The Movies Meet Web 2.0: Lance Weiler On The New Economic Model For Independent Cinema

New Business Model: Knowledge@Wharton writes about Weiler's vision of cinematic experience (s) with a combination of live + interactive elements what he calls a cinema ARG or alternative reality game + an economic model for independent cinema @ http://knowledge.wharton.upenn.edu/article/1783.cfm

Everyware

Good Books: (via Emergic) Adam Greenfield's book, Everyware is about the dawning age of ubiquitous computing.

Here is the book's description:
Ubiquitous computing--almost imperceptible, but everywhere around us--is rapidly becoming a reality. How will it change us? How can we shape its emergence?

Smart buildings, smart furniture, smart clothing... even smart bathtubs. networked street signs and self-describing soda cans. Gestural interfaces like those seen in Minority Report. The RFID tags now embedded in everything from credit cards to the family pet.

All of these are facets of the ubiquitous computing author Adam Greenfield calls "everyware." In a series of brief, thoughtful meditations, Greenfield explains how everyware is already reshaping our lives, transforming our understanding of the cities we live in, the communities we belong to--and the way we see ourselves.

Here is an excerpt (via A List Apart):
Everyware is an attempt to describe the form computing will take in the next few years. Specifically, it’s about a vision of processing power so distributed throughout the environment that computers per se effectively disappear. It’s about the enormous consequences this disappearance has for the kinds of tasks computers are applied to, for the way we use them, and for what we understand them to be.

Although aspects of this vision have been called a variety of names -- ubiquitous computing, pervasive computing, physical computing, tangible media, and so on. I think of each as a facet of one coherent paradigm of interaction that I call everyware.

In everyware, all the information we now look to our phones or Web browsers to provide becomes accessible from just about anywhere, at any time, and is delivered in a manner appropriate to our location and context.

In everyware, the garment, the room and the street become sites of processing and mediation. Household objects from shower stalls to coffee pots are reimagined as places where facts about the world can be gathered, considered, and acted upon. And all the familiar rituals of daily life, things as fundamental as the way we wake up in the morning, get to work, or shop for our groceries, are remade as an intricate dance of information about ourselves, the state of the external world, and the options available to us at any given moment.

In all of these scenarios, there are powerful informatics underlying the apparent simplicity of the experience, but they never breach the surface of awareness: things just work.

Everyware is an interesting book + provides a preview of what's coming + gives you an interesting perspective of the emerging new world of convenience (s).

Paintings For Now

Peter Schjeldahl writes about Neo Rauch + his complex compositions and persuasive visual poetry on canvas @ http://www.newyorker.com/arts/critics/artworld/2007/06/04/070604craw_artworld_schjeldahl

Revisiting The Rihga Hotel

Chaim Even-Zohar writes about a diamond that was submitted by a New York sightholder to New York's GIA lab + the grading incident (s) + the management practice (s) + behind the scene events + other viewpoints @ http://www.idexonline.com/portal_FullEditorial.asp?TextSearch=&KeyMatch=0&id=25451