By John Sinkankas
Chilton Book Company, Radnor, Pennsylvania, USA
1981 ISBN 0-8019-7114-4
Chilton Book Company writes:
This consummate portrait of Emerald and Other Beryls is a permanent reference for jewelers, gemological historians, mineralogists, geologists, and mineral collectors. John Sinkankas, a widely respected authority on the earth sciences, here provides a scholarly yet eminently readable monograph on every facet of beryl: cultural and natural history; structure and composition; lapidary and synthesis; and world occurrences, including gems, collector’s specimens, and the ore of the rare metal beryllium.
Beginning with Egypt 5500 years ago, the author traces the story of the dazzling emerald—from the fabled Table of Solomon to Queen Elizabeth II’s Coronation jewels—and its less renowned relatives, the pink morganite, the golden beryl and the blue aquamarine. The role of beryl in ornament, magic and medicine is a fascinating tale interwoven with history’s most compelling people and events. Together with a unique nomenclature appendix of synonyms in all languages for beryl and its varieties, this cultural archive is of special interest to historians, archeologists, linguists and students of curios lore.
In the second part, Sinkankas explores the natural history of emerald and beryl and the advances in mineralogical knowledge from antiquity, through the Christian Era, the Middle Ages, and into the highly technological modern era of exotic used for a mineral that was once considered suitable only for ornamentation. The author culled and synthesized the extensive literature of every language to bring to one volume all the significant material on crystal structure, chemical composition, physical and optical properties, and causes of color. A chapter is also devoted to cutting emerald and other beryls into jewelry stones.
Unmatched anywhere in the literature, the third part is an encyclopedic guide to major beryl deposits, with special notes on sources of fine crystal specimens and gem materials. Sinkankas has compressed a colossal amount of information into a readily accessible reference for mineralogists, geologists, mineral collectors, and gem cutters. Superbly rendered maps by the author augment the locality data.
In addition to photographs in color and black and white, the text is enhanced by line drawings and a series of unique watercolor paintings of actual crystal specimens done expressly for this book by the author.
About the Author
John Sinkankas has published eleven books on mineralogy, gemology, prospecting, and lapidary art, among them the critically acclaimed Gemstones of North America in two volumes and the popular Mineralogy for Amateurs. He has written more than 100 articles for popular and scientific journals, contributing regularly to Gems and Gemology, Journal of Gemmology, Rocks and Minerals, Gems and Minerals, Lapidary Journal and American Mineralogist.
Wednesday, January 24, 2007
Tuesday, January 23, 2007
Patience and Discipline
Forbes writes:
Mary Buffett spoke to Forbes.com about patience, discipline and Warren Buffett's pleasure dome.
Forbes.com: What's the most important lesson you've learned from Warren Buffett?
Mary Buffett: Patience and discipline. And doing something you love. So many people -- and Warren has said this -- are doing it for the money. That's really not the right reason. If you're doing something you love, you're more likely to put your all into it, and that generally equates to making money. He always says when he gets up in the morning he goes to his pleasure dome, which is his office.
Mary Buffett spoke to Forbes.com about patience, discipline and Warren Buffett's pleasure dome.
Forbes.com: What's the most important lesson you've learned from Warren Buffett?
Mary Buffett: Patience and discipline. And doing something you love. So many people -- and Warren has said this -- are doing it for the money. That's really not the right reason. If you're doing something you love, you're more likely to put your all into it, and that generally equates to making money. He always says when he gets up in the morning he goes to his pleasure dome, which is his office.
Precious Stones
By Dr Max Bauer
Translated from the German by L.J.Spencer
Charles E Tuttle Company
1969 ISBN 8048-0489-3
Charles E Tuttle Company writes:
A popular account of their characters, occurrence, and application, with an introduction to their determination for mineralogists, lapidaries, and jewelers with an appendix on pearls and coral from the original edition and up-to-date material on synthetic gems and the cultured pearl.
Originally published in 1896 in Germany, Precious Stones was translated and brought up to date in 1903 prior to its publication in England. It is without doubt one of the most comprehensive studies of gems ever published.
Long out of print, Precious Stones appeared high on the list of a response made by antiquarian book dealers who were asked which books they would most like to see reprinted. Although the technology applicable to gems has made enormous strides in this century, the basic information contained in Precious Stones remain valid.
Part One is devoted to a consideration of the mineral characteristics which are of importance to the specialist in gems; a general consideration of the type of occurrence of precious stones; and material relating to the application and working of these stones.
Part Two contains a detailed account of every mineral which has been used for ornamental purposes, with special reference to precious stones.
Part Three epitomizes the characters to be relied on in determining precious stones and distinguishing them from other precious stones and from imitations.
Up-to-date information on synthetic gems and the cultured pearl is included in the appendices to the new edition.
Precious Stones deserves a place in the reference library of all professional people who are concerned with gems and mineralogy.
Translated from the German by L.J.Spencer
Charles E Tuttle Company
1969 ISBN 8048-0489-3
Charles E Tuttle Company writes:
A popular account of their characters, occurrence, and application, with an introduction to their determination for mineralogists, lapidaries, and jewelers with an appendix on pearls and coral from the original edition and up-to-date material on synthetic gems and the cultured pearl.
Originally published in 1896 in Germany, Precious Stones was translated and brought up to date in 1903 prior to its publication in England. It is without doubt one of the most comprehensive studies of gems ever published.
Long out of print, Precious Stones appeared high on the list of a response made by antiquarian book dealers who were asked which books they would most like to see reprinted. Although the technology applicable to gems has made enormous strides in this century, the basic information contained in Precious Stones remain valid.
Part One is devoted to a consideration of the mineral characteristics which are of importance to the specialist in gems; a general consideration of the type of occurrence of precious stones; and material relating to the application and working of these stones.
Part Two contains a detailed account of every mineral which has been used for ornamental purposes, with special reference to precious stones.
Part Three epitomizes the characters to be relied on in determining precious stones and distinguishing them from other precious stones and from imitations.
Up-to-date information on synthetic gems and the cultured pearl is included in the appendices to the new edition.
Precious Stones deserves a place in the reference library of all professional people who are concerned with gems and mineralogy.
Chatoyant (Cat’s eye) gemstones
Most frequently seen cat’s eye gemstones
- Actinolite
- Apatite
- Beryl
- Chrysoberyl
- Diopside
- Gypsum
- Moonstone
- Quartz’s cat’s eye
- Tiger’s Eye (trade name) Quartz
- Tourmaline
Most frequently seen imitation cat’s eyes gemstones
- Cathaystone (fiberoptic glass)
- Glass
- Ulexite-base doublet
- Victoria cat’s eye (devitrified glass)
- Fire eye (chatoyant glass)
- Actinolite
- Apatite
- Beryl
- Chrysoberyl
- Diopside
- Gypsum
- Moonstone
- Quartz’s cat’s eye
- Tiger’s Eye (trade name) Quartz
- Tourmaline
Most frequently seen imitation cat’s eyes gemstones
- Cathaystone (fiberoptic glass)
- Glass
- Ulexite-base doublet
- Victoria cat’s eye (devitrified glass)
- Fire eye (chatoyant glass)
How To Separate Frequently Encountered Yellow Stones
- Visual observation: (10x lens) Look for color, luster, cut, doublet/triplet junctions, if any.
- Determine optic character: Single refractive (SR) / Double refractive (DR) / Anomalous Double refractive (ADR) / Aggregate (AGG).
- Spectrum: Many yellow stones may have diagnostic spectrum.
- Microscope: Inclusions may be diagnostic, but look for inclusions that differentiate natural and synthetic, doublet / triplet.
- Dichroscope: Different cutting orientations of natural and synthetic corundum may be revealed by dichroscope.
- Fluorescence: Look under shortwave and longwave for diagnostic colors.
- Immersion cell: Use immersion cell and high refractive index liquid to separate doublets/triplets.
- Refractometer: Confirm spectroscope reading with refractometer.
The yellow stones, which may resemble one another in appearance and values, are:
Quartz, Citrine
- Hardness: 7
- Specific gravity: 2.65
- Refractive index: 1.54 – 1.55
- Optic sign: Uniaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.009
- Other points: Color, inclusions. Citrine may be treated. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Common look-alikes are yellow beryl, yellow labradorite, scapolite, and glass. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments / identify stones.
Synthetic quartz , citrine
- Hardness: 7
- Specific gravity: 2.65
- Refractive index: 1.54 – 1.55
- Optic sign: Uniaxial positive
- Birefringence: DR; 0.009
- Other points: Color, inclusions, twinning pattern. Synthetic citrine is produced by the hydrothermal process. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify stones.
Feldspar, Orthoclase
- Hardness: 6
- Specific gravity: 2.56
- Refractive index: 1.52 – 1.53
- Optic sign: Biaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.006
- Other points: Color, inclusions, cleavage. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Common look-alikes are yellow beryl, citrine, scapolite, and glass. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify stones.
Feldspar, Labradorite
- Hardness: 6
- Specific gravity: 2.70 (average)
- Refractive index: 1.56 – 1.57
- Optic sign: Biaxial positive
- Birefringence: DR; 0.009
- Other points: Color, inclusions, cleavage. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Common look-alikes are yellow beryl, citrine, scapolite, and glass. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify stones.
Beryl
- Hardness: 7.75
- Specific gravity: 2.70 – 2.90
- Refractive index: 1.56 – 1.59
- Optic sign: Uniaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.005/9
- Other points: Color, inclusions. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Yellow beryl may treated. Common look-alikes are yellow labradorite, citrine, scapolite, and glass. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify stones.
Scapolite
- Hardness: 6
- Specific gravity: 2.50-2.70
- Refractive index: 1.54 – 1.58
- Optic sign: Uniaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.009 - 026
- Other points: Color, inclusions, fluorescence. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Common look-alikes are yellow labradorite, citrine, yellow beryl, and glass. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify stones.
Apatite
- Hardness: 5
- Specific gravity: 3.18
- Refractive index: 1.63 – 1.64
- Optic sign: Uniaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.002 – 0.004
- Other points: Color, inclusions, spectrum. Apatite may be treated. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Common imitations include chrysoberyl, sapphire, tourmaline, danburite, peridot, topaz and glass. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify stones.
Danburite
- Hardness: 7
- Specific gravity: 3.00
- Refractive index: 1.63 – 1.64
- Optic sign: Biaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.006
- Other points: Color, inclusions, spectrum. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Common imitations include chrysoberyl, sapphire, tourmaline, apatite, peridot, topaz and glass. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify stones.
Topaz
- Hardness: 8
- Specific gravity: 3.53
- Refractive index: 1.63 – 1.64
- Optic sign: Biaxial positive
- Birefringence: DR; 0.008
- Other points: Color, inclusions, cleavage. Topaz may be treated. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Common imitations include chrysoberyl, sapphire, tourmaline, apatite, peridot, danburite and glass. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments / identify stones.
Tourmaline
- Hardness: 7
- Specific gravity: 3.05
- Refractive index: 1.62 – 1.64
- Optic sign: Uniaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.018
- Other points: Color, inclusions, doubling of back facets, pleochroism. Tourmaline may be treated. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Common imitations include chrysoberyl, sapphire, topaz, apatite, peridot, danburite and glass. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments / identify stones.
Idocrase
- Hardness: 6.5
- Specific gravity: 3.35
- Refractive index: 1.70 – 1.73
- Optic sign: Uniaxial negative / positive
- Birefringence: DR; 0.005
- Other points: Color, spectrum. Common imitations include chrysoberyl, sapphire, topaz, apatite, peridot, danburite, tourmaline, and glass. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments / identify stones.
Grossular garnet
- Hardness: 7.25
- Specific gravity: 3.60 – 3.70
- Refractive index: 1.74 – 1.75
- Optic sign: SR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Color, inclusions. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Common imitations include chrysoberyl, sapphire, topaz, apatite, peridot, danburite, tourmaline, and glass. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments / identify stones.
Chrysoberyl
- Hardness: 8.5
- Specific gravity: 3.72
- Refractive index: 1.74 – 1.75
- Optic sign: Biaxial positive
- Birefringence: DR; 0.009
- Other points: Color, inclusions, spectrum. Chrysoberyl may be treated. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Common imitations include idocrase, hessonite garnet, sapphire, topaz, apatite, peridot, danburite, tourmaline, and glass. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments / identify stones.
Sapphire
- Hardness: 9
- Specific gravity: 4
- Refractive index: 1.76 – 1.77
- Optic sign: Uniaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.008
- Other points: Color, inclusions, spectrum. Yellow sapphire may be treated. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Common imitations include chrysoberyl, idocrase, hessonite garnet, topaz, apatite, peridot, danburite, tourmaline, and glass. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments / identify stones.
Andradite garnet (yellow demantoid)
- Hardness: 6.5
- Specific gravity: 3.85
- Refractive index: 1.89
- Optic sign: SR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Color, inclusions, negative refractive index reading, spectrum, dispersion, luster. Common imitations include chrysoberyl, idocrase, sapphire, topaz, apatite, peridot, danburite, tourmaline, zircon, sphene, and glass. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments / identify stones.
Zircon
- Hardness: 7.5
- Specific gravity: 4.69
- Refractive index: 1.93 – 1.99
- Optic sign: Uniaxial positive
- Birefringence: DR; 0.059
- Other points: Color, inclusions, doubling of back facets, spectrum, luster. Zircon may be treated. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Common imitations include chrysoberyl, idocrase, sapphire, topaz, apatite, peridot, danburite, tourmaline, demantoid garnet, sphene and glass. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments / identify stones.
Sphene
- Hardness: 5.5
- Specific gravity: 3.53
- Refractive index: 1.89 – 2.02
- Optic sign: Biaxial positive
- Birefringence: DR; 0.051
- Other points: Color, negative refractive index reading, dispersion, doubling of back facets, spectrum. Common imitations include chrysoberyl, idocrase, sapphire, topaz, apatite, peridot, danburite, tourmaline, zircon, demantoid garnet and glass. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments / identify stones.
Synthetic cubic zirconia
- Hardness: 8.5
- Specific gravity: 5.65+
- Refractive index: 2.15+
- Optic sign: SR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Color, inclusions, negative refractive index, luster, dispersion, orange flash on the pavilion. Most gem quality stones are relatively clean. High dispersion will easily identify the stone. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify stones.
Diamond
- Hardness: 10
- Specific gravity: 3.52
- Refractive index: 2.42
- Optic sign: SR/ADR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Color, negative refractive index reading, dispersion, spectrum, inclusions. Yellow diamonds may be treated. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Common imitations are synthetic cubic zirconia, synthetic moissanite, synthetic strontium titanate, GGG and glass. Analytical / standard techniques may be required to detect treatments / identify the stones.
Synthetic diamond
- Hardness: 10
- Specific gravity: 3.52
- Refractive index: 2.42
- Optic sign: SR/ADR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Color, negative refractive index reading, dispersion, spectrum, inclusions. Synthetic yellow diamonds are produced by high pressure high temperature method. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Analytical / standard techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Glass
- Hardness: 5.5
- Specific gravity: 3.70
- Refractive index: 1.60 – 1.66
- Optic sign: SR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Color, soft, inclusions (gas bubbles, swirls), luster, spectrum.
Assembled Stones
Doublets / Triplets
Corundum composites (natural crown/synthetic base)
Refractive index: 1.76 – 1.77
Birefringence: DR; 0.008
Other points: Immersion (Look for differences in color and luster between the sections)
Garnet topped doublet (glass)
- Refractive index: 1.76 +
- Optic sign: SR/ADR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Look for differences in color and luster between the sections, gas bubbles)
- Determine optic character: Single refractive (SR) / Double refractive (DR) / Anomalous Double refractive (ADR) / Aggregate (AGG).
- Spectrum: Many yellow stones may have diagnostic spectrum.
- Microscope: Inclusions may be diagnostic, but look for inclusions that differentiate natural and synthetic, doublet / triplet.
- Dichroscope: Different cutting orientations of natural and synthetic corundum may be revealed by dichroscope.
- Fluorescence: Look under shortwave and longwave for diagnostic colors.
- Immersion cell: Use immersion cell and high refractive index liquid to separate doublets/triplets.
- Refractometer: Confirm spectroscope reading with refractometer.
The yellow stones, which may resemble one another in appearance and values, are:
Quartz, Citrine
- Hardness: 7
- Specific gravity: 2.65
- Refractive index: 1.54 – 1.55
- Optic sign: Uniaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.009
- Other points: Color, inclusions. Citrine may be treated. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Common look-alikes are yellow beryl, yellow labradorite, scapolite, and glass. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments / identify stones.
Synthetic quartz , citrine
- Hardness: 7
- Specific gravity: 2.65
- Refractive index: 1.54 – 1.55
- Optic sign: Uniaxial positive
- Birefringence: DR; 0.009
- Other points: Color, inclusions, twinning pattern. Synthetic citrine is produced by the hydrothermal process. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify stones.
Feldspar, Orthoclase
- Hardness: 6
- Specific gravity: 2.56
- Refractive index: 1.52 – 1.53
- Optic sign: Biaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.006
- Other points: Color, inclusions, cleavage. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Common look-alikes are yellow beryl, citrine, scapolite, and glass. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify stones.
Feldspar, Labradorite
- Hardness: 6
- Specific gravity: 2.70 (average)
- Refractive index: 1.56 – 1.57
- Optic sign: Biaxial positive
- Birefringence: DR; 0.009
- Other points: Color, inclusions, cleavage. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Common look-alikes are yellow beryl, citrine, scapolite, and glass. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify stones.
Beryl
- Hardness: 7.75
- Specific gravity: 2.70 – 2.90
- Refractive index: 1.56 – 1.59
- Optic sign: Uniaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.005/9
- Other points: Color, inclusions. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Yellow beryl may treated. Common look-alikes are yellow labradorite, citrine, scapolite, and glass. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify stones.
Scapolite
- Hardness: 6
- Specific gravity: 2.50-2.70
- Refractive index: 1.54 – 1.58
- Optic sign: Uniaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.009 - 026
- Other points: Color, inclusions, fluorescence. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Common look-alikes are yellow labradorite, citrine, yellow beryl, and glass. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify stones.
Apatite
- Hardness: 5
- Specific gravity: 3.18
- Refractive index: 1.63 – 1.64
- Optic sign: Uniaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.002 – 0.004
- Other points: Color, inclusions, spectrum. Apatite may be treated. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Common imitations include chrysoberyl, sapphire, tourmaline, danburite, peridot, topaz and glass. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify stones.
Danburite
- Hardness: 7
- Specific gravity: 3.00
- Refractive index: 1.63 – 1.64
- Optic sign: Biaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.006
- Other points: Color, inclusions, spectrum. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Common imitations include chrysoberyl, sapphire, tourmaline, apatite, peridot, topaz and glass. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify stones.
Topaz
- Hardness: 8
- Specific gravity: 3.53
- Refractive index: 1.63 – 1.64
- Optic sign: Biaxial positive
- Birefringence: DR; 0.008
- Other points: Color, inclusions, cleavage. Topaz may be treated. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Common imitations include chrysoberyl, sapphire, tourmaline, apatite, peridot, danburite and glass. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments / identify stones.
Tourmaline
- Hardness: 7
- Specific gravity: 3.05
- Refractive index: 1.62 – 1.64
- Optic sign: Uniaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.018
- Other points: Color, inclusions, doubling of back facets, pleochroism. Tourmaline may be treated. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Common imitations include chrysoberyl, sapphire, topaz, apatite, peridot, danburite and glass. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments / identify stones.
Idocrase
- Hardness: 6.5
- Specific gravity: 3.35
- Refractive index: 1.70 – 1.73
- Optic sign: Uniaxial negative / positive
- Birefringence: DR; 0.005
- Other points: Color, spectrum. Common imitations include chrysoberyl, sapphire, topaz, apatite, peridot, danburite, tourmaline, and glass. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments / identify stones.
Grossular garnet
- Hardness: 7.25
- Specific gravity: 3.60 – 3.70
- Refractive index: 1.74 – 1.75
- Optic sign: SR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Color, inclusions. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Common imitations include chrysoberyl, sapphire, topaz, apatite, peridot, danburite, tourmaline, and glass. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments / identify stones.
Chrysoberyl
- Hardness: 8.5
- Specific gravity: 3.72
- Refractive index: 1.74 – 1.75
- Optic sign: Biaxial positive
- Birefringence: DR; 0.009
- Other points: Color, inclusions, spectrum. Chrysoberyl may be treated. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Common imitations include idocrase, hessonite garnet, sapphire, topaz, apatite, peridot, danburite, tourmaline, and glass. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments / identify stones.
Sapphire
- Hardness: 9
- Specific gravity: 4
- Refractive index: 1.76 – 1.77
- Optic sign: Uniaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.008
- Other points: Color, inclusions, spectrum. Yellow sapphire may be treated. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Common imitations include chrysoberyl, idocrase, hessonite garnet, topaz, apatite, peridot, danburite, tourmaline, and glass. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments / identify stones.
Andradite garnet (yellow demantoid)
- Hardness: 6.5
- Specific gravity: 3.85
- Refractive index: 1.89
- Optic sign: SR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Color, inclusions, negative refractive index reading, spectrum, dispersion, luster. Common imitations include chrysoberyl, idocrase, sapphire, topaz, apatite, peridot, danburite, tourmaline, zircon, sphene, and glass. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments / identify stones.
Zircon
- Hardness: 7.5
- Specific gravity: 4.69
- Refractive index: 1.93 – 1.99
- Optic sign: Uniaxial positive
- Birefringence: DR; 0.059
- Other points: Color, inclusions, doubling of back facets, spectrum, luster. Zircon may be treated. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Common imitations include chrysoberyl, idocrase, sapphire, topaz, apatite, peridot, danburite, tourmaline, demantoid garnet, sphene and glass. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments / identify stones.
Sphene
- Hardness: 5.5
- Specific gravity: 3.53
- Refractive index: 1.89 – 2.02
- Optic sign: Biaxial positive
- Birefringence: DR; 0.051
- Other points: Color, negative refractive index reading, dispersion, doubling of back facets, spectrum. Common imitations include chrysoberyl, idocrase, sapphire, topaz, apatite, peridot, danburite, tourmaline, zircon, demantoid garnet and glass. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments / identify stones.
Synthetic cubic zirconia
- Hardness: 8.5
- Specific gravity: 5.65+
- Refractive index: 2.15+
- Optic sign: SR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Color, inclusions, negative refractive index, luster, dispersion, orange flash on the pavilion. Most gem quality stones are relatively clean. High dispersion will easily identify the stone. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify stones.
Diamond
- Hardness: 10
- Specific gravity: 3.52
- Refractive index: 2.42
- Optic sign: SR/ADR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Color, negative refractive index reading, dispersion, spectrum, inclusions. Yellow diamonds may be treated. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Common imitations are synthetic cubic zirconia, synthetic moissanite, synthetic strontium titanate, GGG and glass. Analytical / standard techniques may be required to detect treatments / identify the stones.
Synthetic diamond
- Hardness: 10
- Specific gravity: 3.52
- Refractive index: 2.42
- Optic sign: SR/ADR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Color, negative refractive index reading, dispersion, spectrum, inclusions. Synthetic yellow diamonds are produced by high pressure high temperature method. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Analytical / standard techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Glass
- Hardness: 5.5
- Specific gravity: 3.70
- Refractive index: 1.60 – 1.66
- Optic sign: SR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Color, soft, inclusions (gas bubbles, swirls), luster, spectrum.
Assembled Stones
Doublets / Triplets
Corundum composites (natural crown/synthetic base)
Refractive index: 1.76 – 1.77
Birefringence: DR; 0.008
Other points: Immersion (Look for differences in color and luster between the sections)
Garnet topped doublet (glass)
- Refractive index: 1.76 +
- Optic sign: SR/ADR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Look for differences in color and luster between the sections, gas bubbles)
Patience And Discipline
Forbes writes:
Mary Buffett spoke to Forbes.com about patience, discipline and Warren Buffett's pleasure dome.
Forbes.com: What's the most important lesson you've learned from Warren Buffett?
Mary Buffett: Patience and discipline. And doing something you love. So many people -- and Warren has said this -- are doing it for the money. That's really not the right reason. If you're doing something you love, you're more likely to put your all into it, and that generally equates to making money. He always says when he gets up in the morning he goes to his pleasure dome, which is his office.
Mary Buffett spoke to Forbes.com about patience, discipline and Warren Buffett's pleasure dome.
Forbes.com: What's the most important lesson you've learned from Warren Buffett?
Mary Buffett: Patience and discipline. And doing something you love. So many people -- and Warren has said this -- are doing it for the money. That's really not the right reason. If you're doing something you love, you're more likely to put your all into it, and that generally equates to making money. He always says when he gets up in the morning he goes to his pleasure dome, which is his office.
Monday, January 22, 2007
Color
Edited by Helen Varley
The Knapp Press, Publishers, Los Angeles
The Viking Press, Distributors, New York
1980 ISBN 0-89535-037-8
The Knapp Press writes:
Color is simply the greatest show on earth. Every moment it floods us with information and sensation, delineating everything we see—even our dreams. We use it in countless ways to express ourselves and to assess others. Color reaches the heart, mind and spirit alike. It can be the visceral thrill of scarlet uniform; the pleasure of a Picasso painting; the soul-solace of a violet twilight sky. Some 10,000,000 variations of color may be distinguished by the human eye. For sheer dynamic range, no other medium can touch it. Color is among the richest experiences our sense offer.
But what is color? To the physicist it is light; to the chemist it is dye or pigments. To the physiologist it exists only in the eye of the beholder; and to the psychologist color perception is a function of the brain. Color is universally present, yet its true nature is elusive. The attempt to comprehend it has obsessed some of the greatest minds in history; Aristotle, Newton and Goethe are among those who developed detailed color theories.
A fair measure of every civilization has been the passion and ingenuity with which it has sought and used color. The formulations of certain dyes and pigments were so jealously guarded that their disclosure was punishable by death. The dazzling rise of color technology means that we now live in an age of unprecedented ‘color plenty’. Trade and industry, advertisers and packagers, update their color research constantly, so crucial to profit is the right color. Prodigious choice has also bred more discriminating consumers, eager to learn about the many ways color can improve the quality of life.
Universally present, color is too often taken for granted, its possibilities scarcely tapped. People fall into comfortable patterns with clothes, cosmetics and décor, hesitating to expand safe, small circles of color. To them red means warmth, blue means cold. It is easier to feel than to think about. Yet the rewards of experimentation can be spectacular.
The fresh insights provided by Color help you to manage this powerful source for maximum satisfaction. By understanding how colors relate to one another, and to you personally, you can improve your appearance, and surroundings, enhance your sense of well being and do justice to your individuality.
Color is unique tool for raising your color consciousness. Never before has one volume presented the subject from such diverse angles, providing the ideal basis for both an immediate and lifelong study. Color’s bonus is the way in which the whole exceeds the sum of its very handsome parts. When the relations of physics to art to fashion to psychology gradually coalesce, your perception is enhanced as if your eyes had been reborn. Everyday sights are charged with a new, unimaginably richer, dimension. After Color your world will never look the same again.
The Knapp Press, Publishers, Los Angeles
The Viking Press, Distributors, New York
1980 ISBN 0-89535-037-8
The Knapp Press writes:
Color is simply the greatest show on earth. Every moment it floods us with information and sensation, delineating everything we see—even our dreams. We use it in countless ways to express ourselves and to assess others. Color reaches the heart, mind and spirit alike. It can be the visceral thrill of scarlet uniform; the pleasure of a Picasso painting; the soul-solace of a violet twilight sky. Some 10,000,000 variations of color may be distinguished by the human eye. For sheer dynamic range, no other medium can touch it. Color is among the richest experiences our sense offer.
But what is color? To the physicist it is light; to the chemist it is dye or pigments. To the physiologist it exists only in the eye of the beholder; and to the psychologist color perception is a function of the brain. Color is universally present, yet its true nature is elusive. The attempt to comprehend it has obsessed some of the greatest minds in history; Aristotle, Newton and Goethe are among those who developed detailed color theories.
A fair measure of every civilization has been the passion and ingenuity with which it has sought and used color. The formulations of certain dyes and pigments were so jealously guarded that their disclosure was punishable by death. The dazzling rise of color technology means that we now live in an age of unprecedented ‘color plenty’. Trade and industry, advertisers and packagers, update their color research constantly, so crucial to profit is the right color. Prodigious choice has also bred more discriminating consumers, eager to learn about the many ways color can improve the quality of life.
Universally present, color is too often taken for granted, its possibilities scarcely tapped. People fall into comfortable patterns with clothes, cosmetics and décor, hesitating to expand safe, small circles of color. To them red means warmth, blue means cold. It is easier to feel than to think about. Yet the rewards of experimentation can be spectacular.
The fresh insights provided by Color help you to manage this powerful source for maximum satisfaction. By understanding how colors relate to one another, and to you personally, you can improve your appearance, and surroundings, enhance your sense of well being and do justice to your individuality.
Color is unique tool for raising your color consciousness. Never before has one volume presented the subject from such diverse angles, providing the ideal basis for both an immediate and lifelong study. Color’s bonus is the way in which the whole exceeds the sum of its very handsome parts. When the relations of physics to art to fashion to psychology gradually coalesce, your perception is enhanced as if your eyes had been reborn. Everyday sights are charged with a new, unimaginably richer, dimension. After Color your world will never look the same again.
Tattoo Removal + Business
Here is an interesting article on tattoo removal. A few months ago I remember having an interesting conversation with a Swiss expert who is familiar with Laser Ablation Inductive Coupled Plasma Mass Spectroscopy and Laser Induced Breakdown Spectroscopy. He said that the instruments were not only capable of detecting light elements but also removing tattoos.
Rachael Barron writes:
Laser maker takes stake in ink developer as two pair up on tattoo removal.
There are things in life one can’t help but regret. Like that snake tattoo on a forearm that circles the name of an ex-girlfriend. The options: live with it, or go though a painful and expensive removal process.
Laser maker Candela hopes to change all that. The company said Thursday it will be adding to its arsenal of tattoo removal technology the development of a new light-based device. The device’s design will work in tandem with a specialized ink in development geared for easier tattoo removal.
The news underscores innovations that could benefit from a mess of tattoos going mainstream on Hollywood actors and NBA players in recent years.
It come as part of a deal signed with the ink’s developer, privately held Freedom-2. Candela also said it made an investment in the West Conshohocken, Pennsylvania-based ink maker, but financial details were undisclosed.
If all goes as planned, the combo should allow people with a change of heart the ability to remove a tattoo with a single laser treatment.
Much of the removal ability lies in Freedom-2’s ink. The ink is basically a micro-encapsulation of color pigments within colorless polymer beads. A single laser treatment is expected to break up the beads, allowing the body to naturally expel the dye.
It’s a way better alternative when one considers what’s currently available. The most common technique is laser surgery. Here, doctors pulse light through the top layer of skin, where the light’s energy is absorbed by the tattoo’s pigment and breaks down. The broken-down ink is then absorbed by the body.
But make no mistake, at least at this point, it’s not a one-time deal. Different lasers are more effective at removing certain colors or work better on different skin shades. As well, there is only so much laser energy the skin can tolerate in one sitting. As a result, it can take about six to 12 treatments to achieve removal. And the price can range from about $1,000, to $5,000 and beyond, depending on tattoo size and location.
About a quarter of adults age 18 to 50 in the United States have a tattoo, and almost 20 percent of them have debated removing it or covering it up, according to the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology.
Candela already has one removal device on the market known for its abilities to clean away black, blue, and green tattoo pigments. It also is readying to unveil its next-generation model in February that the company says will remove an even wider palette of colors. The expected price tag is in the range of $85,000 to $150,000, according to equity research firm Maxim Group.
But perhaps such machines will gradually become a thing of the past with such breakthroughs as inks trying to be offered by Freedom-2.
The company has been testing its ink’s removal prowess, including on its CEO Martin Schmeig (now that’s devotion). Freedom-2 said it plans to have its ink on the market this year.
Candela’s stock rose $0.12 to $12.60 in recent trading.
More info @
http://www.redherring.com/Article.aspx?a=20818&hed=Tattoo+Removal%e2%80%99s+Investors
Rachael Barron writes:
Laser maker takes stake in ink developer as two pair up on tattoo removal.
There are things in life one can’t help but regret. Like that snake tattoo on a forearm that circles the name of an ex-girlfriend. The options: live with it, or go though a painful and expensive removal process.
Laser maker Candela hopes to change all that. The company said Thursday it will be adding to its arsenal of tattoo removal technology the development of a new light-based device. The device’s design will work in tandem with a specialized ink in development geared for easier tattoo removal.
The news underscores innovations that could benefit from a mess of tattoos going mainstream on Hollywood actors and NBA players in recent years.
It come as part of a deal signed with the ink’s developer, privately held Freedom-2. Candela also said it made an investment in the West Conshohocken, Pennsylvania-based ink maker, but financial details were undisclosed.
If all goes as planned, the combo should allow people with a change of heart the ability to remove a tattoo with a single laser treatment.
Much of the removal ability lies in Freedom-2’s ink. The ink is basically a micro-encapsulation of color pigments within colorless polymer beads. A single laser treatment is expected to break up the beads, allowing the body to naturally expel the dye.
It’s a way better alternative when one considers what’s currently available. The most common technique is laser surgery. Here, doctors pulse light through the top layer of skin, where the light’s energy is absorbed by the tattoo’s pigment and breaks down. The broken-down ink is then absorbed by the body.
But make no mistake, at least at this point, it’s not a one-time deal. Different lasers are more effective at removing certain colors or work better on different skin shades. As well, there is only so much laser energy the skin can tolerate in one sitting. As a result, it can take about six to 12 treatments to achieve removal. And the price can range from about $1,000, to $5,000 and beyond, depending on tattoo size and location.
About a quarter of adults age 18 to 50 in the United States have a tattoo, and almost 20 percent of them have debated removing it or covering it up, according to the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology.
Candela already has one removal device on the market known for its abilities to clean away black, blue, and green tattoo pigments. It also is readying to unveil its next-generation model in February that the company says will remove an even wider palette of colors. The expected price tag is in the range of $85,000 to $150,000, according to equity research firm Maxim Group.
But perhaps such machines will gradually become a thing of the past with such breakthroughs as inks trying to be offered by Freedom-2.
The company has been testing its ink’s removal prowess, including on its CEO Martin Schmeig (now that’s devotion). Freedom-2 said it plans to have its ink on the market this year.
Candela’s stock rose $0.12 to $12.60 in recent trading.
More info @
http://www.redherring.com/Article.aspx?a=20818&hed=Tattoo+Removal%e2%80%99s+Investors
How To Separate Frequently Encountered Colorless Stones
- Visual observation: (10x lens) Look for color, luster, cut, doublet/triplet junctions, if any.
- Determine optic character: Single refractive (SR) / Double refractive (DR) / Anomalous Double refractive (ADR) / Aggregate (AGG).
- Spectrum: Many colorless stones may have diagnostic spectrum.
- Microscope: Inclusions may be diagnostic, but look for inclusions that differentiate natural and synthetic, doublet / triplet.
- Fluorescence: Look under shortwave and longwave for diagnostic colors.
- Immersion cell: Use immersion cell and high refractive index liquid to separate doublets/triplets.
- Refractometer: Confirm spectroscope reading with refractometer.
The colorless stones, which may resemble one another in appearance and values, are:
Diamond
- Hardness: 10
- Specific gravity: 3.52
- Refractive index: 2.42
- Optic sign: SR/ADR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: negative refractive index, dispersion, luster, look at the girdle plane; cleavage, inclusions, weak to strong fluorescence in long wave (may be inert). Diamonds may be treated. Sapphire, synthetic sapphire, spinel, synthetic spinel, zircon, synthetic lithium niobate, synthetic rutile, synthetic yttrium aluminum garnet (YAG), synthetic gadolium gallium garnet (GGG), synthetic strontium titanate, synthetic cubic zircona (CZ), topaz, quartz, and glass may look like diamond. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments / identify the stones.
Synthetic cubic zirconia
- Hardness: 8.5
- Specific gravity: 5.60 – 6.0
- Refractive index: 2.15 – 2.18 (average)
- Optic sign: SR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: negative refractive index, dispersion, luster, orange flash on the pavilion, girdle, inclusions, fluorescence. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Synthetic strontium titanate
- Hardness: 5.5
- Specific gravity: 5.13
- Refractive index: 2.41
- Optic sign: SR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: negative refractive index, dispersion, luster, girdle, inclusions, fluorescence, rounded facet edges. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Synthetic gadolium gallium garnet (GGG)
- Hardness: 6.5
- Specific gravity: 7.05
- Refractive index: 1.97
- Optic sign: SR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: negative refractive index, dispersion, luster, girdle, color, inclusions, fluorescence (strong orange yellow (LW) and yellow (SW)), rounded facet edges. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Synthetic yttrium aluminum garnet (YAG)
- Hardness: 8.5
- Specific gravity: 4.58
- Refractive index: 1.83
- Optic sign: SR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: negative refractive index, dispersion, luster, girdle, inclusions, fluorescence (variable). Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Synthetic rutile
- Hardness: 6.5
- Specific gravity: 4.25
- Refractive index: 2.61 – 2.90
- Optic sign: Uniaxial positive
- Birefringence: DR; 0.287
- Other points: negative refractive index, strong dispersion, luster, doubling of back facets, inclusions, rounded facet edges. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Synthetic lithium niobate
- Hardness: 5.5
- Specific gravity: 4.64
- Refractive index: 2.21 – 2.30
- Optic sign: Uniaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.09
- Other points: soft, negative refractive index, luster, inclusions. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Zircon (high type)
- Hardness: 7.5
- Specific gravity: 4.69
- Refractive index: 1.93 -1.99
- Optic sign: Uniaxial positive
- Birefringence: DR; 0.059
- Other points: dispersion, negative refractive index, luster, inclusions, doubling of back facets, spectrum. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Syntehic spinel
- Hardness: 8
- Specific gravity: 3.63
- Refractive index: 1.728
- Optic sign: SR/ADR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: dispersion, vitreous, luster, inclusions, fluorescence. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Synthetic Moissanite
- Hardness: 9.25
- Specific gravity: 3.22
- Refractive index: 2.65-2.69
- Optic sign: DR
- Other points: Color, luster, fluorescence, inclusions, doubling of back facets. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Sapphire
- Hardness: 9
- Specific gravity: 4
- Refractive index: 1.76 – 1.77
- Optic sign: Uniaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.008
- Other points: vitreous, luster, inclusions, fluorescence. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Synthetic white (colorless) sapphire
- Hardness: 9
- Specific gravity: 4
- Refractive index: 1.76 – 1.77
- Optic sign: Uniaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.008
- Other points: vitreous, luster, inclusions, fluorescence. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Glass
- Hardness: 5.5
- Specific gravity: 3.70
- Refractive index: 1.60 – 1.66
- Optic sign: SR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Color, soft, inclusions (gas bubbles, swirls), luster, spectrum. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Assembled Stones
Doublets / Triplets
Diamond composites (diamond / diamond)
- Refractive index: 2.42
- Optic sign: SR/ADR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Immersion (Look for differences in color and luster between the sections), polishing marks.
Synthetic corundum or spinel on / synthetic strontium titanate
- Other points: Look for differences in color and luster between the sections, gas bubbles)
- Determine optic character: Single refractive (SR) / Double refractive (DR) / Anomalous Double refractive (ADR) / Aggregate (AGG).
- Spectrum: Many colorless stones may have diagnostic spectrum.
- Microscope: Inclusions may be diagnostic, but look for inclusions that differentiate natural and synthetic, doublet / triplet.
- Fluorescence: Look under shortwave and longwave for diagnostic colors.
- Immersion cell: Use immersion cell and high refractive index liquid to separate doublets/triplets.
- Refractometer: Confirm spectroscope reading with refractometer.
The colorless stones, which may resemble one another in appearance and values, are:
Diamond
- Hardness: 10
- Specific gravity: 3.52
- Refractive index: 2.42
- Optic sign: SR/ADR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: negative refractive index, dispersion, luster, look at the girdle plane; cleavage, inclusions, weak to strong fluorescence in long wave (may be inert). Diamonds may be treated. Sapphire, synthetic sapphire, spinel, synthetic spinel, zircon, synthetic lithium niobate, synthetic rutile, synthetic yttrium aluminum garnet (YAG), synthetic gadolium gallium garnet (GGG), synthetic strontium titanate, synthetic cubic zircona (CZ), topaz, quartz, and glass may look like diamond. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments / identify the stones.
Synthetic cubic zirconia
- Hardness: 8.5
- Specific gravity: 5.60 – 6.0
- Refractive index: 2.15 – 2.18 (average)
- Optic sign: SR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: negative refractive index, dispersion, luster, orange flash on the pavilion, girdle, inclusions, fluorescence. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Synthetic strontium titanate
- Hardness: 5.5
- Specific gravity: 5.13
- Refractive index: 2.41
- Optic sign: SR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: negative refractive index, dispersion, luster, girdle, inclusions, fluorescence, rounded facet edges. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Synthetic gadolium gallium garnet (GGG)
- Hardness: 6.5
- Specific gravity: 7.05
- Refractive index: 1.97
- Optic sign: SR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: negative refractive index, dispersion, luster, girdle, color, inclusions, fluorescence (strong orange yellow (LW) and yellow (SW)), rounded facet edges. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Synthetic yttrium aluminum garnet (YAG)
- Hardness: 8.5
- Specific gravity: 4.58
- Refractive index: 1.83
- Optic sign: SR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: negative refractive index, dispersion, luster, girdle, inclusions, fluorescence (variable). Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Synthetic rutile
- Hardness: 6.5
- Specific gravity: 4.25
- Refractive index: 2.61 – 2.90
- Optic sign: Uniaxial positive
- Birefringence: DR; 0.287
- Other points: negative refractive index, strong dispersion, luster, doubling of back facets, inclusions, rounded facet edges. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Synthetic lithium niobate
- Hardness: 5.5
- Specific gravity: 4.64
- Refractive index: 2.21 – 2.30
- Optic sign: Uniaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.09
- Other points: soft, negative refractive index, luster, inclusions. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Zircon (high type)
- Hardness: 7.5
- Specific gravity: 4.69
- Refractive index: 1.93 -1.99
- Optic sign: Uniaxial positive
- Birefringence: DR; 0.059
- Other points: dispersion, negative refractive index, luster, inclusions, doubling of back facets, spectrum. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Syntehic spinel
- Hardness: 8
- Specific gravity: 3.63
- Refractive index: 1.728
- Optic sign: SR/ADR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: dispersion, vitreous, luster, inclusions, fluorescence. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Synthetic Moissanite
- Hardness: 9.25
- Specific gravity: 3.22
- Refractive index: 2.65-2.69
- Optic sign: DR
- Other points: Color, luster, fluorescence, inclusions, doubling of back facets. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Sapphire
- Hardness: 9
- Specific gravity: 4
- Refractive index: 1.76 – 1.77
- Optic sign: Uniaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.008
- Other points: vitreous, luster, inclusions, fluorescence. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Synthetic white (colorless) sapphire
- Hardness: 9
- Specific gravity: 4
- Refractive index: 1.76 – 1.77
- Optic sign: Uniaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.008
- Other points: vitreous, luster, inclusions, fluorescence. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Glass
- Hardness: 5.5
- Specific gravity: 3.70
- Refractive index: 1.60 – 1.66
- Optic sign: SR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Color, soft, inclusions (gas bubbles, swirls), luster, spectrum. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Assembled Stones
Doublets / Triplets
Diamond composites (diamond / diamond)
- Refractive index: 2.42
- Optic sign: SR/ADR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Immersion (Look for differences in color and luster between the sections), polishing marks.
Synthetic corundum or spinel on / synthetic strontium titanate
- Other points: Look for differences in color and luster between the sections, gas bubbles)
The Art Of Faberge
By A Kenneth Snowman
New York Graphic Society Ltd, Greenwich, Connecticut, USA
ISBN 0-8212-0609-5
1953 / 1962
New York Graphic Society writes:
Carl Faberge, goldsmith and jeweler to the Imperial Court of Russia in the years before First World War, was a consummate craftsman, a virtuoso artist in the design and production of exquisite objects. It was his good fortune and ours, comments the author of this magnificently illustrated study of his work, that he was born into an age still able to afford him. When the new Soviet government took over control of private business after the war, Faberge himself is said to have asked, with characteristic lack of ceremony, for ten minutes grace ‘to put on my hat and coat’. He died in Lausanne in 1920, an exile from his country and his work.
The photographs in this volume include a selection from the collection of the Kremlin Museums of the fabulous Imperial Easter Eggs presented each year to Tsarinas, and objects from the British Royal Collections at Sandringham, from other museums, and from the most important private collection in the United States: jewelry, flower studies and animal carvings in semi-precious stones, a dazzling assembly of snuff boxes, cigarette cases, parasol handles, inkwells, clocks and lorgnettes, chess sets and letter openers.
New York Graphic Society Ltd, Greenwich, Connecticut, USA
ISBN 0-8212-0609-5
1953 / 1962
New York Graphic Society writes:
Carl Faberge, goldsmith and jeweler to the Imperial Court of Russia in the years before First World War, was a consummate craftsman, a virtuoso artist in the design and production of exquisite objects. It was his good fortune and ours, comments the author of this magnificently illustrated study of his work, that he was born into an age still able to afford him. When the new Soviet government took over control of private business after the war, Faberge himself is said to have asked, with characteristic lack of ceremony, for ten minutes grace ‘to put on my hat and coat’. He died in Lausanne in 1920, an exile from his country and his work.
The photographs in this volume include a selection from the collection of the Kremlin Museums of the fabulous Imperial Easter Eggs presented each year to Tsarinas, and objects from the British Royal Collections at Sandringham, from other museums, and from the most important private collection in the United States: jewelry, flower studies and animal carvings in semi-precious stones, a dazzling assembly of snuff boxes, cigarette cases, parasol handles, inkwells, clocks and lorgnettes, chess sets and letter openers.
How To Avoid Mistakes
Warren Edward Buffett, CEO, Berkshire Hathaway writes:
'What counts for most people in investing is not how much they know, but rather how realistically they define what they don't know. An investor needs to do very few things right as long as he or she avoids big mistakes.'
'What counts for most people in investing is not how much they know, but rather how realistically they define what they don't know. An investor needs to do very few things right as long as he or she avoids big mistakes.'
How To Separate Frequently Encountered Blue Stones
- Visual observation: (10x lens) Look for color, luster, cut, doublet/triplet junctions, if any.
- Determine optic character: Single refractive (SR) / Double refractive (DR) / Anomalous Double
refractive (ADR) / Aggregate (AGG).
- Spectrum: Many blue stones may have diagnostic spectrum.
- Microscope: Inclusions may be diagnostic, but look for inclusions that differentiate natural and
synthetic, doublet / triplet.
- Dichroscope: Different cutting orientations of natural and synthetic corundum may be revealed by dichroscope.
- Fluorescence: Look under shortwave and longwave for diagnostic colors.
- Immersion cell: Use immersion cell and high refractive index liquid to separate doublets/triplets.
- Refractometer: Confirm spectroscope reading with refractometer.
The blue stones, which may resemble one another in appearance and values, are:
Synthetic blue quartz
- Hardness: 7
- Specific gravity: 2.65
- Refractive index: 1.54 – 1.55
- Optic sign: Uniaxial positive
- Birefringence: DR; 0.009
- Other points: Color, inclusions, interference figures, if seen, spectrum. Common look-alikes include aquamarine, blue spinel, blue sapphire, blue topaz, and glass. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Iolite
- Hardness: 7.5
- Specific gravity: 2.60
- Refractive index: 1.54 – 1.55
- Optic sign: Biaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.009
- Other points: Color, pleochroism, inclusions. Iolite may be treated. Common look-alikes include amethyst, tanzanite, blue sapphire, blue spinel, blue tourmaline, tanzanite and glass. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Beryl (aquamarine)
- Hardness: 7.75
- Specific gravity: 2.70-2.90
- Refractive index: 1.56 – 1.59
- Optic sign: Uniaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.005/9
- Other points: Color, inclusions. Aquamarine may be treated. Common look-alikes include blue topaz and glass. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Beryl (maxixe-type)
- Hardness: 8
- Specific gravity: 2.70 – 2.90
- Refractive index: 1.56 – 1.59
- Optic sign: Uniaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.005/9
- Other points: Color (unstable color; fades), inclusions. Maxixe type beryl may be treated, and may look like aquamarine, tanzanite, synthetic blue quartz, and glass. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments / identify the stones.
Blue topaz
- Hardness: 8
- Specific gravity: 3.56
- Refractive index: 1.61 – 1.62
- Optic sign: Biaxial positive
- Birefringence: DR; 0.010
- Other points: Color. Blue topaz may be treated. Most gem quality stones are relatively clean. Blue topaz may look like aquamarine, blue sapphire, blue spinel, iolite, synthetic blue quartz and glass. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments / identify the stones.
Apatite
- Hardness: 5
- Specific gravity: 3.18
- Refractive index: 1.63 – 1.64
- Optic sign: Uniaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.002- 4 (average)
- Other points: Color, spectrum, dichroism, inclusions. Gem quality stones may be relatively clean. Apatite may look like blue spinel, blue sapphire, blue topaz, blue tourmaline, and glass. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Tourmaline
- Hardness: 7
- Specific gravity: 3.05
- Refractive index: 1.62 – 1.64
- Optic sign: Uniaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.018
- Other points: Color, inclusions, pleochroism, doubling of back facets. Tourmaline may be treated. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Common look-alikes include blue sapphire, blue spinel, apatite, blue topaz, tanzanite, iolite and glass. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments / identify the stones.
Tanzanite (Zoisite)
- Hardness: 6.5
- Specific gravity: 3.35
- Refractive index: 1.69 – 1.70
- Optic sign: Biaxial positive
- Birefringence: DR; 0.009
- Other points: Color, pleochroism, inclusions. Tanzanites may be treated. Gem quality stones relatively clean. Common look-alikes include blue sapphire, iolite, tourmaline, amethyst and glass. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments / identify the stones.
Spinel
- Hardness: 8
- Specific gravity: 3.60+
- Refractive index: 1.718
- Optic sign: SR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Color, spectrum, inclusions. Gem quality blue spinels may be clean. Common look-alikes include blue sapphire, blue tourmaline, iolite, tanzanite, amethyst and glass. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Synthetic blue spinel
- Hardness: 8
- Specific gravity: 3.63
- Refractive index: 1.728
- Optic sign: SR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Color, inclusions, Chelsea color filter, fluorescence. Standard identification techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Sapphire
- Hardness: 9
- Specific gravity: 4
- Refractive index: 1.76 – 1.77
- Optic sign: Uniaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.008
- Other points: Color, inclusions, fluorescence, spectrum. Use microscope to separate natural from synthetic. Sapphires may be treated. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Common look- alikes include tanzanite, blue spinel, blue topaz, blue tourmaline, synthetic blue quartz, iolite and glass. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments / identify the stones.
Synthetic sapphire
- Hardness: 9
- Specific gravity: 4
- Refractive index: 1.76 – 1.77
- Optic sign: Uniaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.008
- Other points: Color, inclusions, fluorescence, spectrum. Use microscope to separate flame fusion from flux from hydrothermal stones. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Benitoite
- Hardness: 6.5
- Specific gravity: 3.67
- Refractive index: 1.76 – 1.80
- Optic sign: Uniaxial positive
- Birefringence: DR; 0.047
- Other points: Color, inclusions, fluorescence, spectrum, dispersion. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Blue zircon
- Hardness: 7.5
- Specific gravity: 4.69
- Refractive index: 1.93 – 1.99
- Optic sign: Uniaxial positive
- Birefringence: DR; 0.059
- Other points: Color, inclusions, spectrum, doubling of back facets, negative refractive index reading, luster, abraded facet junctions. Common look-alikes include blue sapphire, blue topaz, aquamarine, synthetic blue quartz and glass. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments / identify the stones.
Blue diamond
- Hardness: 10
- Specific gravity: 3.52
- Refractive index: 2.42
- Optic sign: SR/ADR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Rare; Color, inclusions, fluorescence, spectrum. Blue diamonds may be treated. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments.
Synthetic blue diamond
- Hardness: 10
- Specific gravity: 3.52
- Refractive index: 2.42
- Optic sign: SR/ADR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Color, inclusions, fluorescence, spectrum. Synthetic blue diamonds are produced by high pressure high temperature method. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Synthetic blue cubic zirconia
- Hardness: 8.5
- Specific gravity: 5.65 +
- Refractive index: 2.15 +
- Optic sign: SR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Color, negative refractive index reading, luster, dispersion. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Glass
- Hardness: 5.5
- Specific gravity: 3.70
- Refractive index: 1.60 – 1.66
- Optic sign: SR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Color, soft, inclusions (gas bubbles, swirls), luster, Chelsea color filter (for cobalt rich stones), spectrum. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Assembled Stones
Doublets / Triplets
Corundum composites (natural crown/synthetic base)
Refractive index: 1.76 – 1.77
Birefringence: DR; 0.008
Other points: Immersion (Look for differences in color and luster between the sections)
Synthetic spinel soude (spinel / spinel)
- Refractive index: 1.728
- Optic sign: SR/ADR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Look for differences in color and luster between the sections, gas bubbles)
Garnet topped doublet (glass)
- Refractive index: 1.76 +
- Optic sign: SR/ADR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Look for differences in color and luster between the sections, gas bubbles)
- Determine optic character: Single refractive (SR) / Double refractive (DR) / Anomalous Double
refractive (ADR) / Aggregate (AGG).
- Spectrum: Many blue stones may have diagnostic spectrum.
- Microscope: Inclusions may be diagnostic, but look for inclusions that differentiate natural and
synthetic, doublet / triplet.
- Dichroscope: Different cutting orientations of natural and synthetic corundum may be revealed by dichroscope.
- Fluorescence: Look under shortwave and longwave for diagnostic colors.
- Immersion cell: Use immersion cell and high refractive index liquid to separate doublets/triplets.
- Refractometer: Confirm spectroscope reading with refractometer.
The blue stones, which may resemble one another in appearance and values, are:
Synthetic blue quartz
- Hardness: 7
- Specific gravity: 2.65
- Refractive index: 1.54 – 1.55
- Optic sign: Uniaxial positive
- Birefringence: DR; 0.009
- Other points: Color, inclusions, interference figures, if seen, spectrum. Common look-alikes include aquamarine, blue spinel, blue sapphire, blue topaz, and glass. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Iolite
- Hardness: 7.5
- Specific gravity: 2.60
- Refractive index: 1.54 – 1.55
- Optic sign: Biaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.009
- Other points: Color, pleochroism, inclusions. Iolite may be treated. Common look-alikes include amethyst, tanzanite, blue sapphire, blue spinel, blue tourmaline, tanzanite and glass. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Beryl (aquamarine)
- Hardness: 7.75
- Specific gravity: 2.70-2.90
- Refractive index: 1.56 – 1.59
- Optic sign: Uniaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.005/9
- Other points: Color, inclusions. Aquamarine may be treated. Common look-alikes include blue topaz and glass. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Beryl (maxixe-type)
- Hardness: 8
- Specific gravity: 2.70 – 2.90
- Refractive index: 1.56 – 1.59
- Optic sign: Uniaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.005/9
- Other points: Color (unstable color; fades), inclusions. Maxixe type beryl may be treated, and may look like aquamarine, tanzanite, synthetic blue quartz, and glass. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments / identify the stones.
Blue topaz
- Hardness: 8
- Specific gravity: 3.56
- Refractive index: 1.61 – 1.62
- Optic sign: Biaxial positive
- Birefringence: DR; 0.010
- Other points: Color. Blue topaz may be treated. Most gem quality stones are relatively clean. Blue topaz may look like aquamarine, blue sapphire, blue spinel, iolite, synthetic blue quartz and glass. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments / identify the stones.
Apatite
- Hardness: 5
- Specific gravity: 3.18
- Refractive index: 1.63 – 1.64
- Optic sign: Uniaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.002- 4 (average)
- Other points: Color, spectrum, dichroism, inclusions. Gem quality stones may be relatively clean. Apatite may look like blue spinel, blue sapphire, blue topaz, blue tourmaline, and glass. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Tourmaline
- Hardness: 7
- Specific gravity: 3.05
- Refractive index: 1.62 – 1.64
- Optic sign: Uniaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.018
- Other points: Color, inclusions, pleochroism, doubling of back facets. Tourmaline may be treated. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Common look-alikes include blue sapphire, blue spinel, apatite, blue topaz, tanzanite, iolite and glass. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments / identify the stones.
Tanzanite (Zoisite)
- Hardness: 6.5
- Specific gravity: 3.35
- Refractive index: 1.69 – 1.70
- Optic sign: Biaxial positive
- Birefringence: DR; 0.009
- Other points: Color, pleochroism, inclusions. Tanzanites may be treated. Gem quality stones relatively clean. Common look-alikes include blue sapphire, iolite, tourmaline, amethyst and glass. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments / identify the stones.
Spinel
- Hardness: 8
- Specific gravity: 3.60+
- Refractive index: 1.718
- Optic sign: SR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Color, spectrum, inclusions. Gem quality blue spinels may be clean. Common look-alikes include blue sapphire, blue tourmaline, iolite, tanzanite, amethyst and glass. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Synthetic blue spinel
- Hardness: 8
- Specific gravity: 3.63
- Refractive index: 1.728
- Optic sign: SR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Color, inclusions, Chelsea color filter, fluorescence. Standard identification techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Sapphire
- Hardness: 9
- Specific gravity: 4
- Refractive index: 1.76 – 1.77
- Optic sign: Uniaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.008
- Other points: Color, inclusions, fluorescence, spectrum. Use microscope to separate natural from synthetic. Sapphires may be treated. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Common look- alikes include tanzanite, blue spinel, blue topaz, blue tourmaline, synthetic blue quartz, iolite and glass. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments / identify the stones.
Synthetic sapphire
- Hardness: 9
- Specific gravity: 4
- Refractive index: 1.76 – 1.77
- Optic sign: Uniaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.008
- Other points: Color, inclusions, fluorescence, spectrum. Use microscope to separate flame fusion from flux from hydrothermal stones. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Benitoite
- Hardness: 6.5
- Specific gravity: 3.67
- Refractive index: 1.76 – 1.80
- Optic sign: Uniaxial positive
- Birefringence: DR; 0.047
- Other points: Color, inclusions, fluorescence, spectrum, dispersion. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Blue zircon
- Hardness: 7.5
- Specific gravity: 4.69
- Refractive index: 1.93 – 1.99
- Optic sign: Uniaxial positive
- Birefringence: DR; 0.059
- Other points: Color, inclusions, spectrum, doubling of back facets, negative refractive index reading, luster, abraded facet junctions. Common look-alikes include blue sapphire, blue topaz, aquamarine, synthetic blue quartz and glass. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments / identify the stones.
Blue diamond
- Hardness: 10
- Specific gravity: 3.52
- Refractive index: 2.42
- Optic sign: SR/ADR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Rare; Color, inclusions, fluorescence, spectrum. Blue diamonds may be treated. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments.
Synthetic blue diamond
- Hardness: 10
- Specific gravity: 3.52
- Refractive index: 2.42
- Optic sign: SR/ADR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Color, inclusions, fluorescence, spectrum. Synthetic blue diamonds are produced by high pressure high temperature method. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Synthetic blue cubic zirconia
- Hardness: 8.5
- Specific gravity: 5.65 +
- Refractive index: 2.15 +
- Optic sign: SR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Color, negative refractive index reading, luster, dispersion. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Glass
- Hardness: 5.5
- Specific gravity: 3.70
- Refractive index: 1.60 – 1.66
- Optic sign: SR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Color, soft, inclusions (gas bubbles, swirls), luster, Chelsea color filter (for cobalt rich stones), spectrum. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Assembled Stones
Doublets / Triplets
Corundum composites (natural crown/synthetic base)
Refractive index: 1.76 – 1.77
Birefringence: DR; 0.008
Other points: Immersion (Look for differences in color and luster between the sections)
Synthetic spinel soude (spinel / spinel)
- Refractive index: 1.728
- Optic sign: SR/ADR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Look for differences in color and luster between the sections, gas bubbles)
Garnet topped doublet (glass)
- Refractive index: 1.76 +
- Optic sign: SR/ADR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Look for differences in color and luster between the sections, gas bubbles)
Gemstones
By Eduard Gubelin and Franz-Xaver Erni
2000 GeoScience Press Inc, Tucson, Arizona
ISBN 0-945005-36-9
GeoScience Press Inc writes:
This book offers the reader a deep insight into the fascinating world of gemstones. It provides an exact description of the individual gems and goes into their origins and their extraction. In this graphic style, Eduard Gubelin reports on the events deep inside the Earth aeons ago that led to the creation of these superlative, sparkling natural products and their colorful radiance. Even if these wonders of Nature can be reduced to chemical formulae, they nevertheless lose nothing of the fascination that they have had for humans since time immemorial.
Franz-Xaver Erni offers the reader a spellbinding tale of how gemstones have loyally accompanied humans throughout history. How gemstones have served women as jewelry and men as symbols of their power. The loveliest of gems adorn women’s jewelry as well as the crowns and insignia of worldly and spiritual rulers.
Throughout ages, individual gems have been allocated to the months of the year and to the signs of the zodiac and imbued with special healing powers in popular imagination. This book offers qualified answers to all questions relating to gemstones; it is not only an exciting read but also a reference work that can be consulted as required.
About the authors
Dr. Eduard J Gubelin is one of the foremost gemologists in the world.
Dr Franz-Xaver Erni is a freelance journalist (PEN).
2000 GeoScience Press Inc, Tucson, Arizona
ISBN 0-945005-36-9
GeoScience Press Inc writes:
This book offers the reader a deep insight into the fascinating world of gemstones. It provides an exact description of the individual gems and goes into their origins and their extraction. In this graphic style, Eduard Gubelin reports on the events deep inside the Earth aeons ago that led to the creation of these superlative, sparkling natural products and their colorful radiance. Even if these wonders of Nature can be reduced to chemical formulae, they nevertheless lose nothing of the fascination that they have had for humans since time immemorial.
Franz-Xaver Erni offers the reader a spellbinding tale of how gemstones have loyally accompanied humans throughout history. How gemstones have served women as jewelry and men as symbols of their power. The loveliest of gems adorn women’s jewelry as well as the crowns and insignia of worldly and spiritual rulers.
Throughout ages, individual gems have been allocated to the months of the year and to the signs of the zodiac and imbued with special healing powers in popular imagination. This book offers qualified answers to all questions relating to gemstones; it is not only an exciting read but also a reference work that can be consulted as required.
About the authors
Dr. Eduard J Gubelin is one of the foremost gemologists in the world.
Dr Franz-Xaver Erni is a freelance journalist (PEN).
Friday, January 19, 2007
The Great Book Of Jewels
By Ernst A and Jean Heiniger
Edita S.A, Lausanne, Switzerland
1974
ISBN 0-517-18132-0
Edita S.A writes:
Through all of the recorded history, jewels have exerted a powerful influence on affairs of men. The Great Book Of Jewels is the first book to capture all the history, romance, intrigue, and enduring beauty of precious stones, from their earliest history to present. The editors, Ernst and Jean Heiniger, aided by a team of nine distinguished gemologists from the world’s foremost museums have amassed a wealth of jewelry lore and scientific fact which they illustrate with man’s most dazzling gems, all newly photographed especially for this book.
Obtaining permission to take these photographs and plotting the historical provenance of the gems required a double genius for diplomacy and persistence. It was also the source of a rich yield of anecdotes, retold in the introduction. Almost five years in the preparation, this work is the result of painstaking research, infinite patience, and thousands of miles of air and automobile travel to three continents. The gemstones you see in this book lie closely guarded in museums, private collections, and darkened bank vaults all over the world. Many have never been available for public inspection.
Edita S.A, Lausanne, Switzerland
1974
ISBN 0-517-18132-0
Edita S.A writes:
Through all of the recorded history, jewels have exerted a powerful influence on affairs of men. The Great Book Of Jewels is the first book to capture all the history, romance, intrigue, and enduring beauty of precious stones, from their earliest history to present. The editors, Ernst and Jean Heiniger, aided by a team of nine distinguished gemologists from the world’s foremost museums have amassed a wealth of jewelry lore and scientific fact which they illustrate with man’s most dazzling gems, all newly photographed especially for this book.
Obtaining permission to take these photographs and plotting the historical provenance of the gems required a double genius for diplomacy and persistence. It was also the source of a rich yield of anecdotes, retold in the introduction. Almost five years in the preparation, this work is the result of painstaking research, infinite patience, and thousands of miles of air and automobile travel to three continents. The gemstones you see in this book lie closely guarded in museums, private collections, and darkened bank vaults all over the world. Many have never been available for public inspection.
Synthetic Star Stones
In 1947, the Linde Company began producing synthetic star corundum by the Verneuil (flame fusion) process. Star boules were made by adding 0.1-0.3% of titanium oxide to the mixture. After the boules have cooled, they are reheated to a temperature of 1100-1500ºC for a period of several hours to several days. This causes the titanium oxide to be exsolved in the form of needles arranged in intersecting sets, just like the natural star corundum. The stones, which are known as Linde Stars in the trade are currently produced in several colors, with red and blue being the most common.
For many years they were produced in the United States and often had engraved “L” on the base of the cabochon, which stood for Linde. Today the stones are produced in several other countries as well.
Identification of synthetic star corundum is not a problem because the needles are more evenly distributed and stars appear too good. For now synthetic star is produced by the flame fusion process, and the stones show curved growth lines and gas bubbles characteristic of this process.
For many years they were produced in the United States and often had engraved “L” on the base of the cabochon, which stood for Linde. Today the stones are produced in several other countries as well.
Identification of synthetic star corundum is not a problem because the needles are more evenly distributed and stars appear too good. For now synthetic star is produced by the flame fusion process, and the stones show curved growth lines and gas bubbles characteristic of this process.
How To Separate Frequently Encountered Fancy Colored Diamonds From Imitations
- Visual observation: (10x lens) Look for color, luster, cut, doublet/triplet junctions, if any.
- Determine optic character: Single refractive (SR) / Double refractive (DR) / Anomalous Double refractive (ADR) / Aggregate (AGG).
- Spectrum: Many stones may have diagnostic spectrum.
- Microscope: Inclusions may be diagnostic, but look for inclusions that differentiate natural and synthetic, doublet / triplet.
- Fluorescence: Look under shortwave and longwave for diagnostic colors.
- Immersion cell: Use immersion cell and high refractive index liquid to separate doublets/triplets.
- Refractometer: Confirm spectroscope reading with refractometer.
The fancy colored stones, which may resemble one another in appearance and values, are:
Diamond
- Hardness: 10
- Specific gravity: 3.52
- Refractive index: 2.42
- Optic sign: SR/ADR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: negative refractive index, dispersion, luster, look at the girdle plane; cleavage, inclusions, weak to strong fluorescence in long wave (may be inert). Diamonds may be treated. Sapphire, synthetic sapphire, spinel, synthetic spinel, zircon, synthetic rutile, synthetic yttrium aluminum garnet (YAG), synthetic gadolium gallium garnet (GGG), synthetic strontium titanate, synthetic cubic zircona (CZ), topaz, quartz, demantoid garnet, sphene, and glass may look like diamond. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments / identify the stones.
Synthetic cubic zirconia
- Hardness: 8.5
- Specific gravity: 5.60 – 6.0
- Refractive index: 2.15 – 2.18 (average)
- Optic sign: SR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: color, negative refractive index, dispersion, luster, orange flash on the pavilion, girdle, inclusions, fluorescence. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Synthetic strontium titanate
- Hardness: 5.5
- Specific gravity: 5.13
- Refractive index: 2.41
- Optic sign: SR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: color, negative refractive index, dispersion, luster, girdle, inclusions, fluorescence, rounded facet edges. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Synthetic gadolium gallium garnet (GGG)
- Hardness: 6.5
- Specific gravity: 7.05
- Refractive index: 1.97
- Optic sign: SR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: color, negative refractive index, dispersion, luster, girdle, color, inclusions, fluorescence (strong orange yellow (LW) and yellow (SW)), rounded facet edges. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Synthetic yttrium aluminum garnet (YAG)
- Hardness: 8.5
- Specific gravity: 4.58
- Refractive index: 1.83
- Optic sign: SR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: color, negative refractive index, dispersion, luster, girdle, inclusions, fluorescence (variable). Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Synthetic rutile
- Hardness: 6.5
- Specific gravity: 4.25
- Refractive index: 2.61 – 2.90
- Optic sign: Uniaxial positive
- Birefringence: DR; 0.287
- Other points: color, negative refractive index, strong dispersion, luster, doubling of back facets, inclusions, rounded facet edges. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Demantoid garnet
- Hardness: 6.5
- Specific gravity: 3.85
- Refractive index: 1.89
- Optic sign: SR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: color, negative refractive index reading, dispersion. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Zircon
- Hardness: 7.5
- Specific gravity: 4.69
- Refractive index: 1.93 -1.99
- Optic sign: Uniaxial positive
- Birefringence: DR; 0.059
- Other points: color, dispersion, negative refractive index, luster, inclusions, doubling of back facets, spectrum. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Sphene
- Hardness: 5.5
- Specific gravity: 3.53
- Refractive index: 1.89 – 2.02
- Optic sign: Biaxial positive
- Birefringence: DR; 0.13
- Other points: color, dispersion, negative refractive index, luster, inclusions, doubling of back facets, spectrum. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Benitoite
- Hardness: 6.5
- Specific gravity: 3.67
- Refractive index: 1.76 – 1.80
- Optic sign: Uniaxial positive
- Birefringence: DR; 0.047
- Other points: Color, inclusions, fluorescence, spectrum, dispersion. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
- Determine optic character: Single refractive (SR) / Double refractive (DR) / Anomalous Double refractive (ADR) / Aggregate (AGG).
- Spectrum: Many stones may have diagnostic spectrum.
- Microscope: Inclusions may be diagnostic, but look for inclusions that differentiate natural and synthetic, doublet / triplet.
- Fluorescence: Look under shortwave and longwave for diagnostic colors.
- Immersion cell: Use immersion cell and high refractive index liquid to separate doublets/triplets.
- Refractometer: Confirm spectroscope reading with refractometer.
The fancy colored stones, which may resemble one another in appearance and values, are:
Diamond
- Hardness: 10
- Specific gravity: 3.52
- Refractive index: 2.42
- Optic sign: SR/ADR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: negative refractive index, dispersion, luster, look at the girdle plane; cleavage, inclusions, weak to strong fluorescence in long wave (may be inert). Diamonds may be treated. Sapphire, synthetic sapphire, spinel, synthetic spinel, zircon, synthetic rutile, synthetic yttrium aluminum garnet (YAG), synthetic gadolium gallium garnet (GGG), synthetic strontium titanate, synthetic cubic zircona (CZ), topaz, quartz, demantoid garnet, sphene, and glass may look like diamond. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments / identify the stones.
Synthetic cubic zirconia
- Hardness: 8.5
- Specific gravity: 5.60 – 6.0
- Refractive index: 2.15 – 2.18 (average)
- Optic sign: SR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: color, negative refractive index, dispersion, luster, orange flash on the pavilion, girdle, inclusions, fluorescence. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Synthetic strontium titanate
- Hardness: 5.5
- Specific gravity: 5.13
- Refractive index: 2.41
- Optic sign: SR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: color, negative refractive index, dispersion, luster, girdle, inclusions, fluorescence, rounded facet edges. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Synthetic gadolium gallium garnet (GGG)
- Hardness: 6.5
- Specific gravity: 7.05
- Refractive index: 1.97
- Optic sign: SR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: color, negative refractive index, dispersion, luster, girdle, color, inclusions, fluorescence (strong orange yellow (LW) and yellow (SW)), rounded facet edges. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Synthetic yttrium aluminum garnet (YAG)
- Hardness: 8.5
- Specific gravity: 4.58
- Refractive index: 1.83
- Optic sign: SR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: color, negative refractive index, dispersion, luster, girdle, inclusions, fluorescence (variable). Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Synthetic rutile
- Hardness: 6.5
- Specific gravity: 4.25
- Refractive index: 2.61 – 2.90
- Optic sign: Uniaxial positive
- Birefringence: DR; 0.287
- Other points: color, negative refractive index, strong dispersion, luster, doubling of back facets, inclusions, rounded facet edges. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Demantoid garnet
- Hardness: 6.5
- Specific gravity: 3.85
- Refractive index: 1.89
- Optic sign: SR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: color, negative refractive index reading, dispersion. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Zircon
- Hardness: 7.5
- Specific gravity: 4.69
- Refractive index: 1.93 -1.99
- Optic sign: Uniaxial positive
- Birefringence: DR; 0.059
- Other points: color, dispersion, negative refractive index, luster, inclusions, doubling of back facets, spectrum. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Sphene
- Hardness: 5.5
- Specific gravity: 3.53
- Refractive index: 1.89 – 2.02
- Optic sign: Biaxial positive
- Birefringence: DR; 0.13
- Other points: color, dispersion, negative refractive index, luster, inclusions, doubling of back facets, spectrum. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Benitoite
- Hardness: 6.5
- Specific gravity: 3.67
- Refractive index: 1.76 – 1.80
- Optic sign: Uniaxial positive
- Birefringence: DR; 0.047
- Other points: Color, inclusions, fluorescence, spectrum, dispersion. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Diamond-studded future for Botswana
(via National Jeweler Network) iAfrica writes:
Botswana, the world's largest diamond producer, is targeting a 17-fold increase in its fledgling cutting industry within five years.
It also aims to provide its diamond mines with all support services from local sources, President Festus Mogae said on Tuesday. He announced that the local cutters would be part supplied direct from a producer, as well as the De Beers' Diamond Trading Company, which until now has been the exclusive marketing channel for Botswana production.
Diamond centre
"We can and will graduate from a diamond producing country to a world class diamond centre," Mogae told delegates from the international industry at a dinner in Antwerp, Belgium.
"The cutting and polishing industry in Botswana has been very small, cutting diamonds worth about $30-million per annum. It is our wish the 16 companies now licensed to operate in Botswana should in five years' time be cutting and polishing at least half a billion dollars worth of diamonds per annum," he said.
Botswana was aiming to develop its diamond industry, not only to polish and cut stones across the market, but also to provide all other financial and technical support services. This would be helped by the migration to Botswana by 2008 of industry services carried out by the De Beers' Diamond Trading Company (DTC) in London, primarily the aggregation of rough production.
"This will attract related services to Botswana, such as diamond banking, security, insurance, security, technology and engineering as well as grading or diamond laboratories," Mogae said.
Better balance
He has previously stated that a major reason for development of cutting and polishing was to help alleviate Botswana's growing unemployment; but in Antwerp stressed this must not happen by the industry concentrating on lesser skilled operations to satisfy the larger volumes sold at the lower end of the market.
"We hope that there will be a balance between employment creation through the cutting of smaller goods and profitable operation which means cutting higher value goods. It is indeed our hope that all companies will do everything possible to ensure employment creation but we also recognise that they should be viable," he said.
The DTC's Botswana operation (DTCB) would become operational in 2008 and be a joint partnership between De Beers and the Botswana government, as is its present diamond producer Debswana.
"All diamond manufacturers in Botswana will become clients of DTCB," Mogae said. "It will supply them with mixtures rather than Debswana-only production, at DTC determined prices which we trust will be market related."
Allay fears
Whilst Debswana markets exclusively through the DTC, the local cutters would also be supplied direct by Diamonex, an Australian- and Botswana-listed company whose projects are entirely in Botswana. Its Martin's Drift property, due to commence production during 2007, comprises kimberlites previously discovered by De Beers.
"The diamonds from this producer will be made available to companies in Botswana outside of the DTC system, also at market prices. They will only be exported if the cutting and polishing companies in Botswana do not buy them," Mogae said.
This is not seen as the beginning of a move towards direct marketing of all Botswana production but rather as a possible way to allay fears that bringing rough diamonds onto the market in Botswana might open up a channel for the introduction of conflict diamonds.
De Beers and Botswana were architects of the Kimberley Process, which seeks to prevent trade in the small number of gems produced to fund conflict in Africa. Last year, De Beers Botswana chief executive, Sheila Khama, registered concern about opening the sealed and secure process to sell to local cutters.
"Nothing we do to develop the cutting and polishing industry will be allowed to interfere with the Kimberley Process," she said.
More info @ http://business.iafrica.com/news/590862.htm
Botswana, the world's largest diamond producer, is targeting a 17-fold increase in its fledgling cutting industry within five years.
It also aims to provide its diamond mines with all support services from local sources, President Festus Mogae said on Tuesday. He announced that the local cutters would be part supplied direct from a producer, as well as the De Beers' Diamond Trading Company, which until now has been the exclusive marketing channel for Botswana production.
Diamond centre
"We can and will graduate from a diamond producing country to a world class diamond centre," Mogae told delegates from the international industry at a dinner in Antwerp, Belgium.
"The cutting and polishing industry in Botswana has been very small, cutting diamonds worth about $30-million per annum. It is our wish the 16 companies now licensed to operate in Botswana should in five years' time be cutting and polishing at least half a billion dollars worth of diamonds per annum," he said.
Botswana was aiming to develop its diamond industry, not only to polish and cut stones across the market, but also to provide all other financial and technical support services. This would be helped by the migration to Botswana by 2008 of industry services carried out by the De Beers' Diamond Trading Company (DTC) in London, primarily the aggregation of rough production.
"This will attract related services to Botswana, such as diamond banking, security, insurance, security, technology and engineering as well as grading or diamond laboratories," Mogae said.
Better balance
He has previously stated that a major reason for development of cutting and polishing was to help alleviate Botswana's growing unemployment; but in Antwerp stressed this must not happen by the industry concentrating on lesser skilled operations to satisfy the larger volumes sold at the lower end of the market.
"We hope that there will be a balance between employment creation through the cutting of smaller goods and profitable operation which means cutting higher value goods. It is indeed our hope that all companies will do everything possible to ensure employment creation but we also recognise that they should be viable," he said.
The DTC's Botswana operation (DTCB) would become operational in 2008 and be a joint partnership between De Beers and the Botswana government, as is its present diamond producer Debswana.
"All diamond manufacturers in Botswana will become clients of DTCB," Mogae said. "It will supply them with mixtures rather than Debswana-only production, at DTC determined prices which we trust will be market related."
Allay fears
Whilst Debswana markets exclusively through the DTC, the local cutters would also be supplied direct by Diamonex, an Australian- and Botswana-listed company whose projects are entirely in Botswana. Its Martin's Drift property, due to commence production during 2007, comprises kimberlites previously discovered by De Beers.
"The diamonds from this producer will be made available to companies in Botswana outside of the DTC system, also at market prices. They will only be exported if the cutting and polishing companies in Botswana do not buy them," Mogae said.
This is not seen as the beginning of a move towards direct marketing of all Botswana production but rather as a possible way to allay fears that bringing rough diamonds onto the market in Botswana might open up a channel for the introduction of conflict diamonds.
De Beers and Botswana were architects of the Kimberley Process, which seeks to prevent trade in the small number of gems produced to fund conflict in Africa. Last year, De Beers Botswana chief executive, Sheila Khama, registered concern about opening the sealed and secure process to sell to local cutters.
"Nothing we do to develop the cutting and polishing industry will be allowed to interfere with the Kimberley Process," she said.
More info @ http://business.iafrica.com/news/590862.htm
The Diamond World
By David E Koskoff
Published by Harper & Row Publishers, New York
ISBN 0-06-038005-5
1981
Harper & Row Publishers writes:
When Randolph Churchill, father of Winston, peered down into the vastness of “The Big Hole of Kimberley”, the great worked out diamond mine, and contemplated what it represented in human terms, he mused. “All for the vanity of woman.” To which one of the women in the party added, “And the depravity of man.” The Diamond World is about the vanity of women and the depravity of men.
On one level, of course, the book is about diamonds: it traces the stone from mine to finger. On another level, though, this book is about very different matters: smuggling in Zaire (DR Congo), corruption in Sierre Leone, income tax evasion in Israel, child labor in India, murder in New York and perversion of Japanese values. An incisive economic dissection of the world’s most glittering business, this book is also an anthropological, sociological, and political look at the world’s shabbiest business—the diamond trade.
The Diamond World is about the ways in which De Beers Consolidated Mines Limited, the giant South African corporation that controls diamond distribution, has attained and maintained control of the diamond world, and the benevolent and malevolent faces of its power. It is about the diamantaires; the people involved in one or more aspects of the diamond industry and trade, and about the honor code that governs them, and which makes them quite possibly the world’s most honest businessmen—within their own group. Their honor code, however, has never had much relevance to the outside world; they victimize both consumers and the countries that shelter them, particularly the United States, Israel, and Belgium.
The diamond world is so secretive that even its New York labor union has an unlisted telephone number. “It’s like a prison system,” one customs official told the author. “If you talk,’ others won’t deal with you, buy from you or sell to you.” Nonetheless, with gall and charm—and mostly perseverance—David Koskoff worked his way into the arcane and colorful circle of the diamond people and managed to interview hundreds of them: small ‘diamond diggers’ prospecting for diamonds with more hope than knowledge; De Beers and other diamond mining executives on three continents; twelve-year old diamond polishers in the diamond cottages of India; jewelers in high priced goods and in schlock. Mostly people were evasive; with few exceptions; they do have something to hide. But from fragments of each person’s comments, Koskoff was able to piece together the puzzle of the diamond world. In the process he traveled around the world—to Amsterdam and Antwerp, Tel Aviv, India, Hong Kong, Tokyo; to South Africa, Namibia, Botswana, Zaire, Ghana, Liberia and Sierre Leone.
There have been other books about the diamond world, but none that has so totally bared the inner machinations of the world’s most mysterious business.
About The Author
David E Koskoff, a practicing attorney, is the author of Joseph P Kennedy; A Life and Times and The Mellons: The Chronicle of America’s Richest Family. He lives in Plainville, Connecticut, with his wife, Charlotte.
David E Koskoff writes:
“Get the coat! Get the coat!” Harry Samuelson’s father yelled from the ship’s railing to his son on the wharf. “Go back to the hotel, pay the bill, and get the coat!”
Harry suspected what was afoot. The ship, from Virgo, Spain, to Cuba, was fully booked; the Samuelsons had appreciated that they would have to wait for the next boat to freedom. They had done to the docks only to say goodbye to some luckier friends, other Jewish refugees from Hitler, who had obtained the last berths available. Once aboard, though, the friends warned Harry’s father: Spain might change its tolerant policy toward the Jews; there might not be a next boat. This might be the Samuelson’s last chance to escape. The friends were willing to help. At length Harry’s father made the determination: They would stow away. Standing on the wharf, Harry, fifteen years old, pieced that much together.
But why the coat? What of their luggage, their important belongings? Why had his father neglected to mention these things of value? In Cuba it would be warm; his father would not even need an overcoat.
Harry rushed back to the hotel, threw the family’s most valuable possessions into a suitcase, and with a mine-is-not-to-reason-why sigh, put the useless overcoat on his own back and returned to the dock. With a surreptitiously obtained pass, he boarded ship, and when it embarked for Cuba and freedom, the Samuelsons—seven in all—were aboard, secreted in their friend’s cabin.
When the ship was well at sea, the Samuelsons confided in a Catholic priest, who brought young Harry to see the ship’s purser to make the family’s explanations and try to smooth things over. The purser was outraged to learn that there were stowaways on his ship and was not to be mollified by a mere boy. He demanded to see Harry’s father immediately.
Harry was terrified. Would they order that the ship be turned around, and hand the family over to the authorities as common criminals? Or worse, deport them to Spain across the border to Vichy France, where the Nazis were in firm control? He returned to the family’s hiding place where his father calmly heard what had occurred.
No, the father would not go to see the purser. Instead, he said, Harry must return to see the purser—this time alone, without the priest. He was to tell the purser that they were honest people, that they would pay for the passage, that they were grateful for his understanding and for his assistance, and—fumbling about in the lining of his old overcoat—that they wanted the purser to have a token of their appreciation. The father removed his hand from within the coat and dropped something into Harry’s palm: one shiny pebble.
Today Harry Samuelson is an important diamond dealer in Antwerp, Belgium, the capital of the world diamond trade. He has forgotten much in a full life, but he will always remember the look on the purser’s face when Harry gave him the diamond. “You can’t imagine how his face lit up; I saw a smile like I’ve never seen in my whole life.” And he remembers the wonderful trip to Cuba—everything was first class al the way. He remembers, too, the coat, the old overcoat, and what was sewn into his lining, the family’s passport to freedom.
Published by Harper & Row Publishers, New York
ISBN 0-06-038005-5
1981
Harper & Row Publishers writes:
When Randolph Churchill, father of Winston, peered down into the vastness of “The Big Hole of Kimberley”, the great worked out diamond mine, and contemplated what it represented in human terms, he mused. “All for the vanity of woman.” To which one of the women in the party added, “And the depravity of man.” The Diamond World is about the vanity of women and the depravity of men.
On one level, of course, the book is about diamonds: it traces the stone from mine to finger. On another level, though, this book is about very different matters: smuggling in Zaire (DR Congo), corruption in Sierre Leone, income tax evasion in Israel, child labor in India, murder in New York and perversion of Japanese values. An incisive economic dissection of the world’s most glittering business, this book is also an anthropological, sociological, and political look at the world’s shabbiest business—the diamond trade.
The Diamond World is about the ways in which De Beers Consolidated Mines Limited, the giant South African corporation that controls diamond distribution, has attained and maintained control of the diamond world, and the benevolent and malevolent faces of its power. It is about the diamantaires; the people involved in one or more aspects of the diamond industry and trade, and about the honor code that governs them, and which makes them quite possibly the world’s most honest businessmen—within their own group. Their honor code, however, has never had much relevance to the outside world; they victimize both consumers and the countries that shelter them, particularly the United States, Israel, and Belgium.
The diamond world is so secretive that even its New York labor union has an unlisted telephone number. “It’s like a prison system,” one customs official told the author. “If you talk,’ others won’t deal with you, buy from you or sell to you.” Nonetheless, with gall and charm—and mostly perseverance—David Koskoff worked his way into the arcane and colorful circle of the diamond people and managed to interview hundreds of them: small ‘diamond diggers’ prospecting for diamonds with more hope than knowledge; De Beers and other diamond mining executives on three continents; twelve-year old diamond polishers in the diamond cottages of India; jewelers in high priced goods and in schlock. Mostly people were evasive; with few exceptions; they do have something to hide. But from fragments of each person’s comments, Koskoff was able to piece together the puzzle of the diamond world. In the process he traveled around the world—to Amsterdam and Antwerp, Tel Aviv, India, Hong Kong, Tokyo; to South Africa, Namibia, Botswana, Zaire, Ghana, Liberia and Sierre Leone.
There have been other books about the diamond world, but none that has so totally bared the inner machinations of the world’s most mysterious business.
About The Author
David E Koskoff, a practicing attorney, is the author of Joseph P Kennedy; A Life and Times and The Mellons: The Chronicle of America’s Richest Family. He lives in Plainville, Connecticut, with his wife, Charlotte.
David E Koskoff writes:
“Get the coat! Get the coat!” Harry Samuelson’s father yelled from the ship’s railing to his son on the wharf. “Go back to the hotel, pay the bill, and get the coat!”
Harry suspected what was afoot. The ship, from Virgo, Spain, to Cuba, was fully booked; the Samuelsons had appreciated that they would have to wait for the next boat to freedom. They had done to the docks only to say goodbye to some luckier friends, other Jewish refugees from Hitler, who had obtained the last berths available. Once aboard, though, the friends warned Harry’s father: Spain might change its tolerant policy toward the Jews; there might not be a next boat. This might be the Samuelson’s last chance to escape. The friends were willing to help. At length Harry’s father made the determination: They would stow away. Standing on the wharf, Harry, fifteen years old, pieced that much together.
But why the coat? What of their luggage, their important belongings? Why had his father neglected to mention these things of value? In Cuba it would be warm; his father would not even need an overcoat.
Harry rushed back to the hotel, threw the family’s most valuable possessions into a suitcase, and with a mine-is-not-to-reason-why sigh, put the useless overcoat on his own back and returned to the dock. With a surreptitiously obtained pass, he boarded ship, and when it embarked for Cuba and freedom, the Samuelsons—seven in all—were aboard, secreted in their friend’s cabin.
When the ship was well at sea, the Samuelsons confided in a Catholic priest, who brought young Harry to see the ship’s purser to make the family’s explanations and try to smooth things over. The purser was outraged to learn that there were stowaways on his ship and was not to be mollified by a mere boy. He demanded to see Harry’s father immediately.
Harry was terrified. Would they order that the ship be turned around, and hand the family over to the authorities as common criminals? Or worse, deport them to Spain across the border to Vichy France, where the Nazis were in firm control? He returned to the family’s hiding place where his father calmly heard what had occurred.
No, the father would not go to see the purser. Instead, he said, Harry must return to see the purser—this time alone, without the priest. He was to tell the purser that they were honest people, that they would pay for the passage, that they were grateful for his understanding and for his assistance, and—fumbling about in the lining of his old overcoat—that they wanted the purser to have a token of their appreciation. The father removed his hand from within the coat and dropped something into Harry’s palm: one shiny pebble.
Today Harry Samuelson is an important diamond dealer in Antwerp, Belgium, the capital of the world diamond trade. He has forgotten much in a full life, but he will always remember the look on the purser’s face when Harry gave him the diamond. “You can’t imagine how his face lit up; I saw a smile like I’ve never seen in my whole life.” And he remembers the wonderful trip to Cuba—everything was first class al the way. He remembers, too, the coat, the old overcoat, and what was sewn into his lining, the family’s passport to freedom.
Thursday, January 18, 2007
How To Separate Frequently Encountered Green Stones
- Visual observation: (10x lens) Look for color, luster, cut, doublet/triplet junctions, if any.
- Determine optic character: Single refractive (SR) / Double refractive (DR) / Anomalous Double refractive (ADR) / Aggregate (AGG).
- Spectrum: Many green stones may have diagnostic spectrum.
- Microscope: Inclusions may be diagnostic, but look for inclusions that differentiate natural and synthetic, doublet / triplet.
- Dichroscope: Different cutting orientations of natural and synthetic corundum / beryl may be revealed by dichroscope.
- Fluorescence: Look under shortwave and longwave for diagnostic colors.
- Immersion cell: Use immersion cell and high refractive index liquid to separate doublets/triplets.
- Refractometer: Confirm spectroscope reading with refractometer.
The green stones, which may resemble one another in appearance and values, are:
Fluorite
- Hardness: 4
- Specific gravity: 3.18
- Refractive index: 1.434
- Optic sign: SR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Inclusions, color, Chelsea color filter. Fluorite may be treated. Gem quality fluorites are relatively clean. Common look-alikes include emerald, tsavorite garent, peridot, demantoid garnet, green sapphire and glass. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments / identify the stones.
Chalcedony (stained)
- Hardness: 6.5
- Specific gravity: 2.60
- Refractive index: 1.53 (mean)
- Optic sign: AGG (aggregate)
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Color, stain, Chelsea color filter, inclusions. Chalcedony may be treated. Common look-alikes include jadeite jade, nephrite jade and glass. Standard identification techniques may be required to detect treatments.
Emerald
- Hardness: 7.5
- Specific gravity: 2.70 (average)
- Refractive index: 1.57 – 1.58
- Optic sign: Uniaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.006
- Other points: Color, inclusions, spectrum, fluorescence. To separate natural vs synthetic use microscope. Most emeralds are treated. Clean emeralds are difficult to find. Common look-alikes include fluorite, tsavorite garnet, demantoid garnet, peridot and glass. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments / identify the stones.
Synthetic emerald
- Hardness: 7.5
- Specific gravity: 2.70 (average)
- Refractive index: 1.57 – 1.58
- Optic sign: Uniaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.003
- Other points: Color, inclusions, fluorescence, spectrum. Flux and hydrothermal stones may show diagnostic inclusions. Most gem quality stones are relatively clean. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones if they are clean.
Tourmaline
- Hardness: 7
- Specific gravity: 3.05
- Refractive index: 1.62 – 1.64
- Optic sign: Uniaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.018
- Other points: Color, pleochroism, inclusions. Most tourmalines are treated. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Common look-alikes include peridot, tsavorite garnet, chrome diopside, green sapphire, emerald and glass. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments / identify the stones.
Jadeite jade
- Hardness: 7
- Specific gravity: 3.34
- Refractive index: 1.66 (mean)
- Optic sign: AGG (aggregate)
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Color, inclusions, spectrum, Chelsea color filter. Most jadeite jades are treated. Common look-alikes include nephrite jade, chalcedony, serpentine, green zoisite, soapstone, idocrase, aventurine quartz and glass. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments.
Peridot
- Hardness: 6.5
- Specific gravity: 3.34
- Refractive index: 1.65 – 1.69
- Optic sign: Biaxial positive
- Birefringence: DR; 0.037
- Other points: Color, inclusions, spectrum, birefringence, doubling of back facets. Common look-alikes include tourmaline, chrome diopside, tsavorite garnet, demantoid garnet, green sapphire and glass. Standard identification techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Enstatite
- Hardness: 5.5
- Specific gravity: 3.20 – 3.00
- Refractive index: 1.65 – 1.68
- Optic sign: Biaxial positive
- Birefringence: DR; 0.010
- Other points: Color, inclusions, spectrum. Enstatite may look like peridot. Standard identification techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Diopside
- Hardness: 5
- Specific gravity: 3.30
- Refractive index: 1.67 – 1.70
- Optic sign: Biaxial positive
- Birefringence: DR; 0.025
- Other points: Color, inclusions, doubling of back facets. Common look-alikes include tourmaline, tsavorite garnet, demantoid garnet, peridot, green sapphire and glass. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Standard identification techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Green zoisite
- Hardness: 6.5
- Specific gravity: 3.35
- Refractive index: 1.69 – 1.70
- Optic sign: Biaxial positive
- Birefringence: DR; 0.009
- Other points: Color, pleochroism, inclusions. Green zoisite may be treated. Gem quality stones are relatively clean and may look like alexandrite. Translucent to opaque quality stones may look like jadeite jade, aventurine quartz or glass. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments / identify the stones.
Tsavorite garnet
- Hardness: 7.25
- Specific gravity: 3.65
- Refractive index: 1.75
- Optic sign: SR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Color, inclusions. Common look-alikes include chrome diopside, green tourmaline, green sapphire, demantoid garnet, peridot, emerald and glass. The stones may be treated. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Demantoid garnet
- Hardness: 6.5
- Specific gravity: 3.85
- Refractive index: 1.89
- Optic sign: SR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Color, inclusions, spectrum, dispersion, negative refractive index. Common look-alikes include tsavorite garnet, green tourmaline, chrome diopside, green sapphire, peridot, emerald and glass. The stones may be treated. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments / identify the stones.
Chrysoberyl
- Hardness: 8.5
- Specific gravity: 3.72
- Refractive index: 1.74 – 1.75
- Optic sign: Biaxial positive
- Birefringence: DR; 0.009
- Other points: Color, inclusions, spectrum. Common look-alikes include green sapphire, tsavorite garnet, demantoid garnet, peridot, tourmaline, fluorite and glass. The stones may be treated. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments / identify the stones.
Green sapphire
- Hardness: 9
- Specific gravity: 4
- Refractive index: 1.76 – 1.77
- Optic sign: Uniaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.008
- Other points: Color, inclusions, spectrum. Common look-alikes include tsavorite garnet, demantoid garnet, green zircon, peridot, chrome diopside, green tourmaline and glass. The stones may be treated. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify treatments / identify the stones.
Green zircon
- Hardness: 6.5
- Specific gravity: 4
- Refractive index: 1.82 (values are variable)
- Optic sign: Uniaxial positive
- Birefringence: DR; 0.01
- Other points: Color, inclusions, negative refractive index, doubling of back facets, spectrum. Common look-a likes include green sapphire, peridot, chrome diopside, peridot, chrysoberyl, tsavorite garnet, demantoid garnet, emerald and glass. The stones may be treated. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments / identify the stones.
Synthetic cubic zirconia
- Hardness: 8.5
- Specific gravity: 5.65 +
- Refractive index: 2.15 +
- Optic sign: SR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Color, negative refractive index reading, luster, dispersion. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Diamond
- Hardness: 10
- Specific gravity: 3.52
- Refractive index: 2.42
- Optic sign: SR/ADR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Rare; color, negative refractive index reading, luster, dispersion, spectrum, inclusions. Green diamonds may be treated. Analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments.
Syntheic green diamond
- Hardness: 10
- Specific gravity: 3.52
- Refractive index: 2.42
- Optic sign: SR/ADR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Color, negative refractive index reading, luster, dispersion, spectrum, inclusions. Synthetic diamonds are produced by high pressure high temperature method. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Glass
- Hardness: 5.5
- Specific gravity: 3.70
- Refractive index: 1.60 – 1.66
- Optic sign: SR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Color, soft, inclusions (gas bubbles, swirls), luster. Standard identification techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Assembled Stones
Doublets / Triplets
Beryl composites
Refractive index: 1.57 -1.59
Birefringence: DR; 0.004
Other points: Immersion (Look for differences in color and luster between the sections)
Quartz soude (quartz/quartz)
- Refractive index: 1.54 -1.59
- Optic sign: Uniaxial positive
- Birefringence: DR; 0.009
- Other points: Look for differences in color and luster between the sections, gas bubbles)
Synthetic spinel soude (spinel / spinel)
- Refractive index: 1.728
- Optic sign: SR/ADR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Look for differences in color and luster between the sections, gas bubbles)
Garnet topped doublet (glass)
- Refractive index: 1.76 +
- Optic sign: SR/ADR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Look for differences in color and luster between the sections, gas bubbles)
- Determine optic character: Single refractive (SR) / Double refractive (DR) / Anomalous Double refractive (ADR) / Aggregate (AGG).
- Spectrum: Many green stones may have diagnostic spectrum.
- Microscope: Inclusions may be diagnostic, but look for inclusions that differentiate natural and synthetic, doublet / triplet.
- Dichroscope: Different cutting orientations of natural and synthetic corundum / beryl may be revealed by dichroscope.
- Fluorescence: Look under shortwave and longwave for diagnostic colors.
- Immersion cell: Use immersion cell and high refractive index liquid to separate doublets/triplets.
- Refractometer: Confirm spectroscope reading with refractometer.
The green stones, which may resemble one another in appearance and values, are:
Fluorite
- Hardness: 4
- Specific gravity: 3.18
- Refractive index: 1.434
- Optic sign: SR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Inclusions, color, Chelsea color filter. Fluorite may be treated. Gem quality fluorites are relatively clean. Common look-alikes include emerald, tsavorite garent, peridot, demantoid garnet, green sapphire and glass. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments / identify the stones.
Chalcedony (stained)
- Hardness: 6.5
- Specific gravity: 2.60
- Refractive index: 1.53 (mean)
- Optic sign: AGG (aggregate)
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Color, stain, Chelsea color filter, inclusions. Chalcedony may be treated. Common look-alikes include jadeite jade, nephrite jade and glass. Standard identification techniques may be required to detect treatments.
Emerald
- Hardness: 7.5
- Specific gravity: 2.70 (average)
- Refractive index: 1.57 – 1.58
- Optic sign: Uniaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.006
- Other points: Color, inclusions, spectrum, fluorescence. To separate natural vs synthetic use microscope. Most emeralds are treated. Clean emeralds are difficult to find. Common look-alikes include fluorite, tsavorite garnet, demantoid garnet, peridot and glass. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments / identify the stones.
Synthetic emerald
- Hardness: 7.5
- Specific gravity: 2.70 (average)
- Refractive index: 1.57 – 1.58
- Optic sign: Uniaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.003
- Other points: Color, inclusions, fluorescence, spectrum. Flux and hydrothermal stones may show diagnostic inclusions. Most gem quality stones are relatively clean. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones if they are clean.
Tourmaline
- Hardness: 7
- Specific gravity: 3.05
- Refractive index: 1.62 – 1.64
- Optic sign: Uniaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.018
- Other points: Color, pleochroism, inclusions. Most tourmalines are treated. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Common look-alikes include peridot, tsavorite garnet, chrome diopside, green sapphire, emerald and glass. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments / identify the stones.
Jadeite jade
- Hardness: 7
- Specific gravity: 3.34
- Refractive index: 1.66 (mean)
- Optic sign: AGG (aggregate)
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Color, inclusions, spectrum, Chelsea color filter. Most jadeite jades are treated. Common look-alikes include nephrite jade, chalcedony, serpentine, green zoisite, soapstone, idocrase, aventurine quartz and glass. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments.
Peridot
- Hardness: 6.5
- Specific gravity: 3.34
- Refractive index: 1.65 – 1.69
- Optic sign: Biaxial positive
- Birefringence: DR; 0.037
- Other points: Color, inclusions, spectrum, birefringence, doubling of back facets. Common look-alikes include tourmaline, chrome diopside, tsavorite garnet, demantoid garnet, green sapphire and glass. Standard identification techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Enstatite
- Hardness: 5.5
- Specific gravity: 3.20 – 3.00
- Refractive index: 1.65 – 1.68
- Optic sign: Biaxial positive
- Birefringence: DR; 0.010
- Other points: Color, inclusions, spectrum. Enstatite may look like peridot. Standard identification techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Diopside
- Hardness: 5
- Specific gravity: 3.30
- Refractive index: 1.67 – 1.70
- Optic sign: Biaxial positive
- Birefringence: DR; 0.025
- Other points: Color, inclusions, doubling of back facets. Common look-alikes include tourmaline, tsavorite garnet, demantoid garnet, peridot, green sapphire and glass. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Standard identification techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Green zoisite
- Hardness: 6.5
- Specific gravity: 3.35
- Refractive index: 1.69 – 1.70
- Optic sign: Biaxial positive
- Birefringence: DR; 0.009
- Other points: Color, pleochroism, inclusions. Green zoisite may be treated. Gem quality stones are relatively clean and may look like alexandrite. Translucent to opaque quality stones may look like jadeite jade, aventurine quartz or glass. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments / identify the stones.
Tsavorite garnet
- Hardness: 7.25
- Specific gravity: 3.65
- Refractive index: 1.75
- Optic sign: SR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Color, inclusions. Common look-alikes include chrome diopside, green tourmaline, green sapphire, demantoid garnet, peridot, emerald and glass. The stones may be treated. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Demantoid garnet
- Hardness: 6.5
- Specific gravity: 3.85
- Refractive index: 1.89
- Optic sign: SR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Color, inclusions, spectrum, dispersion, negative refractive index. Common look-alikes include tsavorite garnet, green tourmaline, chrome diopside, green sapphire, peridot, emerald and glass. The stones may be treated. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments / identify the stones.
Chrysoberyl
- Hardness: 8.5
- Specific gravity: 3.72
- Refractive index: 1.74 – 1.75
- Optic sign: Biaxial positive
- Birefringence: DR; 0.009
- Other points: Color, inclusions, spectrum. Common look-alikes include green sapphire, tsavorite garnet, demantoid garnet, peridot, tourmaline, fluorite and glass. The stones may be treated. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments / identify the stones.
Green sapphire
- Hardness: 9
- Specific gravity: 4
- Refractive index: 1.76 – 1.77
- Optic sign: Uniaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.008
- Other points: Color, inclusions, spectrum. Common look-alikes include tsavorite garnet, demantoid garnet, green zircon, peridot, chrome diopside, green tourmaline and glass. The stones may be treated. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify treatments / identify the stones.
Green zircon
- Hardness: 6.5
- Specific gravity: 4
- Refractive index: 1.82 (values are variable)
- Optic sign: Uniaxial positive
- Birefringence: DR; 0.01
- Other points: Color, inclusions, negative refractive index, doubling of back facets, spectrum. Common look-a likes include green sapphire, peridot, chrome diopside, peridot, chrysoberyl, tsavorite garnet, demantoid garnet, emerald and glass. The stones may be treated. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments / identify the stones.
Synthetic cubic zirconia
- Hardness: 8.5
- Specific gravity: 5.65 +
- Refractive index: 2.15 +
- Optic sign: SR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Color, negative refractive index reading, luster, dispersion. Standard / analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Diamond
- Hardness: 10
- Specific gravity: 3.52
- Refractive index: 2.42
- Optic sign: SR/ADR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Rare; color, negative refractive index reading, luster, dispersion, spectrum, inclusions. Green diamonds may be treated. Analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments.
Syntheic green diamond
- Hardness: 10
- Specific gravity: 3.52
- Refractive index: 2.42
- Optic sign: SR/ADR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Color, negative refractive index reading, luster, dispersion, spectrum, inclusions. Synthetic diamonds are produced by high pressure high temperature method. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Analytical techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Glass
- Hardness: 5.5
- Specific gravity: 3.70
- Refractive index: 1.60 – 1.66
- Optic sign: SR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Color, soft, inclusions (gas bubbles, swirls), luster. Standard identification techniques may be required to identify the stones.
Assembled Stones
Doublets / Triplets
Beryl composites
Refractive index: 1.57 -1.59
Birefringence: DR; 0.004
Other points: Immersion (Look for differences in color and luster between the sections)
Quartz soude (quartz/quartz)
- Refractive index: 1.54 -1.59
- Optic sign: Uniaxial positive
- Birefringence: DR; 0.009
- Other points: Look for differences in color and luster between the sections, gas bubbles)
Synthetic spinel soude (spinel / spinel)
- Refractive index: 1.728
- Optic sign: SR/ADR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Look for differences in color and luster between the sections, gas bubbles)
Garnet topped doublet (glass)
- Refractive index: 1.76 +
- Optic sign: SR/ADR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Look for differences in color and luster between the sections, gas bubbles)
The Pearl Trader
By Louis Kornitzer
Published by Sheridan House, New York
1937
Sheridan House writes:
Lucky is the man whose life has been the pursuit of beauty and adventure. Louis Kornitzer, one of the great rare peal dealers of the world, is that man.
His autobiography, The Pearl Dealer, is one of the great autobiographies of our time—if not of all time—for it shows that a businessman may be an artist, an adventurer, a philosopher, and that one need not be an Axel Munthe, a Victor Heiser, or a Vincent Sheean to have lived a full, exciting, and intelligent life.
With the “world as his oyster” our author set out from London for the wide open, two gun pearl fishing town of Broome, Australia…from there to Sulu and Zamboanga (where the monkeys have no tails), when Black Jack Pershing was earning his gold stars chasing Moros into the hills----then to Hong Kong, where we get an inside view of the business ways for which the heathen Chinee is peculiar…from an odyssey through the Far East he sails back to London and Paris, where the great pearl traders nonchalantly toss about king’s ransoms in little tissue paper envelopes and where the author regales us with sophisticated tales of the vanity of men and the beauty of women.
A third division of this book is a short encyclopedia of pearl lore, which contains for the first time the intimate secrets of a pearl connoisseurs in their judgment of these subtle and moon-like gems.
Among the hundreds of good stories, anecdotes, and observations that tumble out of Kornitzer’s merry pages are those of the monkey who knew how many peanuts he could buy for a centavo…the Chinese clerk whose self-invented system of phonetics could record any sound from the spoken word to the flutter of a leaf…the dispute between the Canton vendor or roast cockroaches and the customer who purchased one of these dainties for a cash (about 1/20 of a cent) and then complained of its quality…the pearl dealer who was ruined by his honesty…Pigott, whose sense of humor saved his head…and the strange adventures of those wizards of skill, the pearl doctors.
Here you have an amusing record of a full life: wit, philosophy, anecdote, business experience, beauty, adventure, history, science and art.
The Pearl Trader is a human document of engrossing interest. There is not a single dull paragraph in its 384 pages.
About Louis Kornitzer
Author of The Pearl Trader
As a boy he sorted dirty seed pearls brought from the ghettos of Poland to his father’s shop…as a young man he learned the wiles of trading in the great gem marts of the world….as a man he traded with the wild Sea Dyaks of the Celebes, Mandarins with the culture of thousand of years a their finger tips, and Connemera Curraghmen who knew their values as well as the brokers of Maiden Lane.
He has left little or nothing out of his crowded life story, The Pearl Trader…you must read this book to savor fully one of the great personalities of our time.
The Pearl Merchants of Paris
Louis Kornitzer writes:
For a long time, a very long time, Paris has been the center of the pearl trade. The reason for this escapes me, unless it is that the many wealthy foreigners who visit it spend their money there more readily than they do anywhere else.
That, of course, would only be partial explanation, as would also the fact that the French gold and silversmiths are more than ordinarily skilled workers in precious metals. But as most of the important pearl fishing stations are situated in British possessions or adjoining them, and as nine-tenths of the pearls fished all over the world are consigned to London bankers and import houses, it is rather strange that Paris and not London should have become the great distributing center for this gem.
Within the last fifty years that part of the Rue Lafayette which runs from the Gare du Nord to within a few paces of the Grand Opera House has attracted numerous pearl merchants and brokers, whose offices are located in that thoroughfare. The Rue Lafayatte is to Pars what Hatton Garden is to London and Maiden Lane to New York—the headquarters of the trade in precious stones and pearls.
In any of these three thoroughfares there are to be seen throughout the whole year, irrespective of the season, and in practically all weathers short of tropical downpour or a hurricane, groups of men, for the most part sallow-complexioned, beak-nosed, and falcon-eyed, standing on the pavement or in the gutter, so that is sometimes difficult to pass. It is a hundred to one that these are more than fresh air fiends—that they are dealers or brokers in precious stones. Those who have a more refined appearance are undoubtedly the handlers of pearls. It would indeed be strange if the constant communion with the queen of gem had no refining influence.
If you are interested to discover which of them are dealers and which are brokers, you have only to peer into their faces. The haggard and pale, the worried-looking ones, those are the dealers. The sleekly-complacent and jesting ones are the brokers. Must I explain? The dealer has to take and give credit. Any error of judgment when appraising goods is upon his own head and his is the entire risk. But the broker is merely the go-between. Heads or tails, he wins. He obtains a brokerage from both buyer and seller, 1 per cent from either side, and the merchants have to pay him whether they register a gain or a loss.
You may wonder why, since the dealers know of each other’s existence, they do not trade directly and thus save the brokerage. They would certainly do so if they could, because brokerage is stiff tax, and no merchant is keen on curtailing his own profit or increasing his charges. But they cannot dispense with the broker. They have to tolerate him as the shark tolerates the pilot fish ( I trust the comparison will not be carried to extreme lengths).
The broker touts for business. He knows, or ought to know, the requirements of nearly everybody with whom he comes in contact. He is a kind of marriage broker. He is expected to praise the bride-to-be (vendor’s goods) and to extol the merits of the future bridegroom (the solvency of the buyer). He is a pimp of sorts, too, if you like. Yet it is to be acknowledged that he often acts the imperial judge and holds the scales of fairly even, and that more often than not he is worthy of his hire.
No, they are not all Jews, these Paris pearl- merchants and brokers. Many are Armenians, Syrians, Arabs, Parsees, Hindus, with a sprinkling of Neapolitans and Catalans and an odd Frenchman or two.
The appearance of many of them is not prepossessing. I grant you, and perhaps we would not be inclined to trust some of them out of our sight with a one cent stamp. Yet in some ways these men’s word is their bond. Their nod is as good as stamped agreement. Their verbal offer is binding. Parcels of pearls or other gems are handed from trader to trader and by them to brokers back and forth in an intricate chain, without acknowledgment in writing, without a receipt of any kind, and often without being checked over for contents. It is taken for granted by all concerned that the details of numbers and weights are correct and precisely as recorded on the wrappers containing the valuable merchandise.
Coming and going, there is implicit trust and almost child-like faith on this particular side of the business. Of chicanery there is plenty, as you will hear, but not in the important matter of ‘handing-round’ for sale, upon which the whole trade depends. Woe to the member of the closed circle, therefore, who betrays the confidence, reposed in him. His name is besmirched for evermore, and the gutter is his lot. The crook in the jewel trade is not honest because he loves virtue, but because he must be so.
The trade has peculiar customs, and by some of them the skinflint or the rogue has to abide, even when it hurts his pockets. There are, for example, times when a bargain, like a good steed, can be made to carry two.
Look at this particular group of four men standing on the curb of the Rue Lafayette. Each is acting according to his lights and his nature, and all are quite unselfconscious, for they do not know that thirty years later we shall be looking at them.
Of the four, the two well-groomed and prosperous-looking men are dealers; Senor Lopez, a Portuguese Jew, and Herr Ohnstadt, a naturalized Frenchman. Third is small shopkeeper from the Faubourg St.Germain. He is French from the tip of goatee to his prejudice against everything non-Gallic.
The fourth man does not know his own nationality. Neither Russians nor Poles will acknowledge him, but each try to wish him on to the other party. Meanwhile the French Government, which is patient with the alien sojourning in the midst, cannot send him over the frontier, because during forty years residence he has behaved himself properly. But he has never bothered about taking out naturalization papers to make himself Frenchman, and now he is a failure and may at any moment become a public charge, which is a crime in any country. Unhappy man! In this age of aggressive nationalism the life of an international no-account is not a happy one.
Ten short years ago he meant to retire and live on his rentes. Then he was prosperous. But he delayed too long, and the lean times came. When he could no longer afford to advise his business friends of his intended retirement—the postage being such a heavy item—he merely had to remain n harness. What else was there to do? And now he has no office; but the curb is a good place. Que voulez-vous? Offices are often stuffy, but here under God’s open sky one may breathe freely and catch one’s clients on the wing. By leave of the sergent de ville one may meet and foregather with old cronies, laugh at their stale jokes, until the voice of law and order says, ‘Pass along, Messieurs, pass along.’
Sometimes, though, not often, Nitchevitch’s bleary eyes are made to overflow with salty happiness when an old acquaintance nudges him en passant. Oh, it is good to be taken notice of when one gets old and—who says poor? No, no! We refuse to have that world applied to an old member of an exclusive circle who black coat shows not a single speck of dust and whose boots shine, veritably, like black pearls.
Sometimes, and generally after his wife has pointed to an empty larder, he may have to muster sufficient aggressiveness to squeeze himself into a deal. There is not always the opportunity, but it is going to present itself today even as we watch.
The French shopkeeper of the Rue du Bac in the Faubourg St.Germain is offering to Senor Lopez a fine secondhand jewel, a snuff box in solid gold exquisitely chased and set with Indian emeralds and rubies, and bordered with rose diamonds. Senor Lopez knows a genuine antique and scents a bargain. He really should not discuss the price at all, since it is being offered so cheaply, but pay what is asked; but from force of habit he fences for a rebate. However, at last, seeing that the deal is attracting the attention of the other dealers, he pulls out a roll of bedraggled notes and begins reluctantly to peel off the appropriate number.
But before the notes have had time to pass from buyer to seller, he who had contemplated retirement ten years ago on his own fat, and has now nothing but a couple of francs in his pocket, sings out, “Monsieur Lopez, I am in this deal with you up to a ten per cent risk!”
The Portuguese Jew looks daggers. But he can do nothing. Custom is rigid on the point. He knows well that there is no way of shaking off the infliction of an associate who is not going to invest a centime, who cannot contribute his share if a loss were to eventuate, and who will presently state how much he must be paid to be got rid of.
By and by, before the sun has gone down, Senor Lopez will offer Monsieur Nitchevitch so many hundred of francs to surrender his mythical interest. The latter, you might think, will be satisfied with any kind of offer, but not he. He will drive a desperate bargain, thinking all the time of the nagging wife at home and her empty larder. Finally, however, he will surrender his claim with a generous sweep of the hand, clutch nervously at the billes de cents, and make off to his obscure and mysterious abode.
You would perhaps call this blackmail. Business, strictly speaking, it is not. But it is the custom. On the whole, however, dealing in gems is a matter of diamond cut diamond and devil take the loser. Take the romantic tale of Jules Grun, Blisky, and Madame Moulin, depicting love among the pearl dealers.
It is really fortunate for you that I happen to know Jules Grun, the millionaire pearl merchant. Thus I take you to his office in that building on the other side of the street. Up one flight of stairs only, so we need not bother, about that narrow-chested wheezy lift. Here we are. Fine waiting room, luxurious carpets, handsome furniture, and the coziest of armchairs to make callers forget the painful suspense of waiting. But we will not sit down. Taking advantage of our cloak of darkness, we got right into the inner office and look about us.
Of the three people at work here you need take not notice at all of two. They are mere paid servants, nobodies. The one person who matters here, for he proclaims it often enough, is Jules Grun himself. There he sits, behind the large flat desk, bald-headed, full-faced, ruddy, and prosperous.
Besides ourselves there is another visitor, a visible one. He is an ordinary-looking person, Blisky by name, a broker. Everybody in the trade knows Blisky. Between Grun, the merchant, and Blisky, the broker, there lie on the table three bunches of oriental pearls. They have already given rise to great deal of talk before we came on the scence, but Blisky is still talking in the manner of brokers the world over, glibly and with serpentine guile, and there is nothing to show that he will ever stop.
Grun talks little. He contents himself with taking up one bunch after another, scrutinizing it carefully through a powerful lens, for the tenth time perhaps. Then he shakes his head from side to side, as pearl merchants do who are interested but intend to conceal it. Finally, he pushes them all together and towards the broker and grunts, “My first bid, Blisky, was more than generous. They are not worth more. You are foolish not to pass my offer on to your client.”
“I am very sorry, Monsieur Grun,” says Blisky, “but I have too much respect for myself to face my client with such a poor offer. He is temporarily embarrassed, as I told you, but there are limits.”
“People who are temporarily embarrassed for ready money should not deal in pearls,” says Grun pompously.
“Maybe yes and maybe no,” says Blisky in a huffed tone, “but as it is not my business to tell my clients what to do and what not to do, that gets us nowhere. You are acting crazy when you allow these bunches to slip through your fingers like this. I suppose you are so rich already that you absolutely refuse to make more money! You are getting to be such a hard nut, too, Monsieur, I warn you, that most brokers are scared to come to you. Were it not that four hundred thousand francs are not everyone’s money, I should not sit here now, be sure. But where in Paris is there another dealer who can lay his hands on so much cash at a moment’s notice?”
“But that is the reason, my dear Blisky, why I want to buy at my own price!”
Just then a clerk enters the room and hands the merchant a slip of paper. He glances at it and says, “Show the lady in,” and turning to the broker adds, “If you care to wait in the next room, I may have another look presently.”
There enters briskly, brushing past the retiring Blisky, a woman middle-aged, good-looking and self-possessed. With business-like directness she states her requirements immediately. A client of hers needs so many pearls of such a size and quality for three sautoirs. If Monsieur has them in stock, she can vouch for a sure sale and spot cash.
Grun almost gasps, but not quite. Strange coincidence! The fellow in the next room has the very thing tucked away in his leather wallet. What luck that he asked him to wait!
“Madame Moulin!,” he says impressively, “I believe I can accommodate your client, but the goods are out at the moment. If you will give me an hour, I will recall them and you can submit them to your client.”
Blisky, however, though a decent fellow and no eavesdropper, has happened to hear all this. The door has been left ajar by accident, and now he knows what is afoot. He decides he is tired of waiting, in spite of the luxuriousness of the waiting room and the comfort of the easy chair. He let himself out and travels down in the groaning lift—for he never believes in walking if he can ride.
He has not long to wait in the street below. Voiture! Voiture! There they go, Madame Moulin and Blisky, as fast as the crock in the shafts of the creaking four wheeler will take them, towards the glittering facades of the Rue de la Paix. The jeweler with whom they are presently closeted is in the worst position a jeweler can possibly be. Fancy having to pay the full price asked because the order is pressing and he has been given carte blanche by this client!
That evening the two brokers are seen to dine tete-a-tete at Voisin’s. The next day Madame Veuve Moulin’s concierge shakes his head knowingly when takes up for the first time to her tiny flat a bouquet of flowers too large to squeeze through the narrow doorway.
From that day bouquets almost of the dimensions of cart wheels arrive everyday for nearly three weeks. Of a sudden they cease coming, and Madame Veuve Moulin that was ventures a faintly cynical remark across the breakfast table. Monsieur Blisky just lowers his morning paper and says, “Cherie, soyez raisonnable. Am I not now paying for cabbages and peas for two?”
Published by Sheridan House, New York
1937
Sheridan House writes:
Lucky is the man whose life has been the pursuit of beauty and adventure. Louis Kornitzer, one of the great rare peal dealers of the world, is that man.
His autobiography, The Pearl Dealer, is one of the great autobiographies of our time—if not of all time—for it shows that a businessman may be an artist, an adventurer, a philosopher, and that one need not be an Axel Munthe, a Victor Heiser, or a Vincent Sheean to have lived a full, exciting, and intelligent life.
With the “world as his oyster” our author set out from London for the wide open, two gun pearl fishing town of Broome, Australia…from there to Sulu and Zamboanga (where the monkeys have no tails), when Black Jack Pershing was earning his gold stars chasing Moros into the hills----then to Hong Kong, where we get an inside view of the business ways for which the heathen Chinee is peculiar…from an odyssey through the Far East he sails back to London and Paris, where the great pearl traders nonchalantly toss about king’s ransoms in little tissue paper envelopes and where the author regales us with sophisticated tales of the vanity of men and the beauty of women.
A third division of this book is a short encyclopedia of pearl lore, which contains for the first time the intimate secrets of a pearl connoisseurs in their judgment of these subtle and moon-like gems.
Among the hundreds of good stories, anecdotes, and observations that tumble out of Kornitzer’s merry pages are those of the monkey who knew how many peanuts he could buy for a centavo…the Chinese clerk whose self-invented system of phonetics could record any sound from the spoken word to the flutter of a leaf…the dispute between the Canton vendor or roast cockroaches and the customer who purchased one of these dainties for a cash (about 1/20 of a cent) and then complained of its quality…the pearl dealer who was ruined by his honesty…Pigott, whose sense of humor saved his head…and the strange adventures of those wizards of skill, the pearl doctors.
Here you have an amusing record of a full life: wit, philosophy, anecdote, business experience, beauty, adventure, history, science and art.
The Pearl Trader is a human document of engrossing interest. There is not a single dull paragraph in its 384 pages.
About Louis Kornitzer
Author of The Pearl Trader
As a boy he sorted dirty seed pearls brought from the ghettos of Poland to his father’s shop…as a young man he learned the wiles of trading in the great gem marts of the world….as a man he traded with the wild Sea Dyaks of the Celebes, Mandarins with the culture of thousand of years a their finger tips, and Connemera Curraghmen who knew their values as well as the brokers of Maiden Lane.
He has left little or nothing out of his crowded life story, The Pearl Trader…you must read this book to savor fully one of the great personalities of our time.
The Pearl Merchants of Paris
Louis Kornitzer writes:
For a long time, a very long time, Paris has been the center of the pearl trade. The reason for this escapes me, unless it is that the many wealthy foreigners who visit it spend their money there more readily than they do anywhere else.
That, of course, would only be partial explanation, as would also the fact that the French gold and silversmiths are more than ordinarily skilled workers in precious metals. But as most of the important pearl fishing stations are situated in British possessions or adjoining them, and as nine-tenths of the pearls fished all over the world are consigned to London bankers and import houses, it is rather strange that Paris and not London should have become the great distributing center for this gem.
Within the last fifty years that part of the Rue Lafayette which runs from the Gare du Nord to within a few paces of the Grand Opera House has attracted numerous pearl merchants and brokers, whose offices are located in that thoroughfare. The Rue Lafayatte is to Pars what Hatton Garden is to London and Maiden Lane to New York—the headquarters of the trade in precious stones and pearls.
In any of these three thoroughfares there are to be seen throughout the whole year, irrespective of the season, and in practically all weathers short of tropical downpour or a hurricane, groups of men, for the most part sallow-complexioned, beak-nosed, and falcon-eyed, standing on the pavement or in the gutter, so that is sometimes difficult to pass. It is a hundred to one that these are more than fresh air fiends—that they are dealers or brokers in precious stones. Those who have a more refined appearance are undoubtedly the handlers of pearls. It would indeed be strange if the constant communion with the queen of gem had no refining influence.
If you are interested to discover which of them are dealers and which are brokers, you have only to peer into their faces. The haggard and pale, the worried-looking ones, those are the dealers. The sleekly-complacent and jesting ones are the brokers. Must I explain? The dealer has to take and give credit. Any error of judgment when appraising goods is upon his own head and his is the entire risk. But the broker is merely the go-between. Heads or tails, he wins. He obtains a brokerage from both buyer and seller, 1 per cent from either side, and the merchants have to pay him whether they register a gain or a loss.
You may wonder why, since the dealers know of each other’s existence, they do not trade directly and thus save the brokerage. They would certainly do so if they could, because brokerage is stiff tax, and no merchant is keen on curtailing his own profit or increasing his charges. But they cannot dispense with the broker. They have to tolerate him as the shark tolerates the pilot fish ( I trust the comparison will not be carried to extreme lengths).
The broker touts for business. He knows, or ought to know, the requirements of nearly everybody with whom he comes in contact. He is a kind of marriage broker. He is expected to praise the bride-to-be (vendor’s goods) and to extol the merits of the future bridegroom (the solvency of the buyer). He is a pimp of sorts, too, if you like. Yet it is to be acknowledged that he often acts the imperial judge and holds the scales of fairly even, and that more often than not he is worthy of his hire.
No, they are not all Jews, these Paris pearl- merchants and brokers. Many are Armenians, Syrians, Arabs, Parsees, Hindus, with a sprinkling of Neapolitans and Catalans and an odd Frenchman or two.
The appearance of many of them is not prepossessing. I grant you, and perhaps we would not be inclined to trust some of them out of our sight with a one cent stamp. Yet in some ways these men’s word is their bond. Their nod is as good as stamped agreement. Their verbal offer is binding. Parcels of pearls or other gems are handed from trader to trader and by them to brokers back and forth in an intricate chain, without acknowledgment in writing, without a receipt of any kind, and often without being checked over for contents. It is taken for granted by all concerned that the details of numbers and weights are correct and precisely as recorded on the wrappers containing the valuable merchandise.
Coming and going, there is implicit trust and almost child-like faith on this particular side of the business. Of chicanery there is plenty, as you will hear, but not in the important matter of ‘handing-round’ for sale, upon which the whole trade depends. Woe to the member of the closed circle, therefore, who betrays the confidence, reposed in him. His name is besmirched for evermore, and the gutter is his lot. The crook in the jewel trade is not honest because he loves virtue, but because he must be so.
The trade has peculiar customs, and by some of them the skinflint or the rogue has to abide, even when it hurts his pockets. There are, for example, times when a bargain, like a good steed, can be made to carry two.
Look at this particular group of four men standing on the curb of the Rue Lafayette. Each is acting according to his lights and his nature, and all are quite unselfconscious, for they do not know that thirty years later we shall be looking at them.
Of the four, the two well-groomed and prosperous-looking men are dealers; Senor Lopez, a Portuguese Jew, and Herr Ohnstadt, a naturalized Frenchman. Third is small shopkeeper from the Faubourg St.Germain. He is French from the tip of goatee to his prejudice against everything non-Gallic.
The fourth man does not know his own nationality. Neither Russians nor Poles will acknowledge him, but each try to wish him on to the other party. Meanwhile the French Government, which is patient with the alien sojourning in the midst, cannot send him over the frontier, because during forty years residence he has behaved himself properly. But he has never bothered about taking out naturalization papers to make himself Frenchman, and now he is a failure and may at any moment become a public charge, which is a crime in any country. Unhappy man! In this age of aggressive nationalism the life of an international no-account is not a happy one.
Ten short years ago he meant to retire and live on his rentes. Then he was prosperous. But he delayed too long, and the lean times came. When he could no longer afford to advise his business friends of his intended retirement—the postage being such a heavy item—he merely had to remain n harness. What else was there to do? And now he has no office; but the curb is a good place. Que voulez-vous? Offices are often stuffy, but here under God’s open sky one may breathe freely and catch one’s clients on the wing. By leave of the sergent de ville one may meet and foregather with old cronies, laugh at their stale jokes, until the voice of law and order says, ‘Pass along, Messieurs, pass along.’
Sometimes, though, not often, Nitchevitch’s bleary eyes are made to overflow with salty happiness when an old acquaintance nudges him en passant. Oh, it is good to be taken notice of when one gets old and—who says poor? No, no! We refuse to have that world applied to an old member of an exclusive circle who black coat shows not a single speck of dust and whose boots shine, veritably, like black pearls.
Sometimes, and generally after his wife has pointed to an empty larder, he may have to muster sufficient aggressiveness to squeeze himself into a deal. There is not always the opportunity, but it is going to present itself today even as we watch.
The French shopkeeper of the Rue du Bac in the Faubourg St.Germain is offering to Senor Lopez a fine secondhand jewel, a snuff box in solid gold exquisitely chased and set with Indian emeralds and rubies, and bordered with rose diamonds. Senor Lopez knows a genuine antique and scents a bargain. He really should not discuss the price at all, since it is being offered so cheaply, but pay what is asked; but from force of habit he fences for a rebate. However, at last, seeing that the deal is attracting the attention of the other dealers, he pulls out a roll of bedraggled notes and begins reluctantly to peel off the appropriate number.
But before the notes have had time to pass from buyer to seller, he who had contemplated retirement ten years ago on his own fat, and has now nothing but a couple of francs in his pocket, sings out, “Monsieur Lopez, I am in this deal with you up to a ten per cent risk!”
The Portuguese Jew looks daggers. But he can do nothing. Custom is rigid on the point. He knows well that there is no way of shaking off the infliction of an associate who is not going to invest a centime, who cannot contribute his share if a loss were to eventuate, and who will presently state how much he must be paid to be got rid of.
By and by, before the sun has gone down, Senor Lopez will offer Monsieur Nitchevitch so many hundred of francs to surrender his mythical interest. The latter, you might think, will be satisfied with any kind of offer, but not he. He will drive a desperate bargain, thinking all the time of the nagging wife at home and her empty larder. Finally, however, he will surrender his claim with a generous sweep of the hand, clutch nervously at the billes de cents, and make off to his obscure and mysterious abode.
You would perhaps call this blackmail. Business, strictly speaking, it is not. But it is the custom. On the whole, however, dealing in gems is a matter of diamond cut diamond and devil take the loser. Take the romantic tale of Jules Grun, Blisky, and Madame Moulin, depicting love among the pearl dealers.
It is really fortunate for you that I happen to know Jules Grun, the millionaire pearl merchant. Thus I take you to his office in that building on the other side of the street. Up one flight of stairs only, so we need not bother, about that narrow-chested wheezy lift. Here we are. Fine waiting room, luxurious carpets, handsome furniture, and the coziest of armchairs to make callers forget the painful suspense of waiting. But we will not sit down. Taking advantage of our cloak of darkness, we got right into the inner office and look about us.
Of the three people at work here you need take not notice at all of two. They are mere paid servants, nobodies. The one person who matters here, for he proclaims it often enough, is Jules Grun himself. There he sits, behind the large flat desk, bald-headed, full-faced, ruddy, and prosperous.
Besides ourselves there is another visitor, a visible one. He is an ordinary-looking person, Blisky by name, a broker. Everybody in the trade knows Blisky. Between Grun, the merchant, and Blisky, the broker, there lie on the table three bunches of oriental pearls. They have already given rise to great deal of talk before we came on the scence, but Blisky is still talking in the manner of brokers the world over, glibly and with serpentine guile, and there is nothing to show that he will ever stop.
Grun talks little. He contents himself with taking up one bunch after another, scrutinizing it carefully through a powerful lens, for the tenth time perhaps. Then he shakes his head from side to side, as pearl merchants do who are interested but intend to conceal it. Finally, he pushes them all together and towards the broker and grunts, “My first bid, Blisky, was more than generous. They are not worth more. You are foolish not to pass my offer on to your client.”
“I am very sorry, Monsieur Grun,” says Blisky, “but I have too much respect for myself to face my client with such a poor offer. He is temporarily embarrassed, as I told you, but there are limits.”
“People who are temporarily embarrassed for ready money should not deal in pearls,” says Grun pompously.
“Maybe yes and maybe no,” says Blisky in a huffed tone, “but as it is not my business to tell my clients what to do and what not to do, that gets us nowhere. You are acting crazy when you allow these bunches to slip through your fingers like this. I suppose you are so rich already that you absolutely refuse to make more money! You are getting to be such a hard nut, too, Monsieur, I warn you, that most brokers are scared to come to you. Were it not that four hundred thousand francs are not everyone’s money, I should not sit here now, be sure. But where in Paris is there another dealer who can lay his hands on so much cash at a moment’s notice?”
“But that is the reason, my dear Blisky, why I want to buy at my own price!”
Just then a clerk enters the room and hands the merchant a slip of paper. He glances at it and says, “Show the lady in,” and turning to the broker adds, “If you care to wait in the next room, I may have another look presently.”
There enters briskly, brushing past the retiring Blisky, a woman middle-aged, good-looking and self-possessed. With business-like directness she states her requirements immediately. A client of hers needs so many pearls of such a size and quality for three sautoirs. If Monsieur has them in stock, she can vouch for a sure sale and spot cash.
Grun almost gasps, but not quite. Strange coincidence! The fellow in the next room has the very thing tucked away in his leather wallet. What luck that he asked him to wait!
“Madame Moulin!,” he says impressively, “I believe I can accommodate your client, but the goods are out at the moment. If you will give me an hour, I will recall them and you can submit them to your client.”
Blisky, however, though a decent fellow and no eavesdropper, has happened to hear all this. The door has been left ajar by accident, and now he knows what is afoot. He decides he is tired of waiting, in spite of the luxuriousness of the waiting room and the comfort of the easy chair. He let himself out and travels down in the groaning lift—for he never believes in walking if he can ride.
He has not long to wait in the street below. Voiture! Voiture! There they go, Madame Moulin and Blisky, as fast as the crock in the shafts of the creaking four wheeler will take them, towards the glittering facades of the Rue de la Paix. The jeweler with whom they are presently closeted is in the worst position a jeweler can possibly be. Fancy having to pay the full price asked because the order is pressing and he has been given carte blanche by this client!
That evening the two brokers are seen to dine tete-a-tete at Voisin’s. The next day Madame Veuve Moulin’s concierge shakes his head knowingly when takes up for the first time to her tiny flat a bouquet of flowers too large to squeeze through the narrow doorway.
From that day bouquets almost of the dimensions of cart wheels arrive everyday for nearly three weeks. Of a sudden they cease coming, and Madame Veuve Moulin that was ventures a faintly cynical remark across the breakfast table. Monsieur Blisky just lowers his morning paper and says, “Cherie, soyez raisonnable. Am I not now paying for cabbages and peas for two?”
Wednesday, January 17, 2007
Business World
Warren Edward Buffett, CEO, Berkshire Hathaway writes:
'In the business world, the rearview mirror is always clearer than the windshield.'
'In the business world, the rearview mirror is always clearer than the windshield.'
Star Beryl
Star beryl is often brown in color and display a weak 6 rayed star. The stone may look very similar to black star sapphire. In beryl, the star effect is not from sets of needles or needle-like inclusions, but instead from plates of ilmenite and hematite, which are oriented in certain positions parallel to the basal plane. These plates may also give the stone its dark brown color; if it is viewed parallel to the plates, clear transparent areas are seen.
Another feature is the hexagonal shield which is seen at the point where the rays intersect. This unique feature makes it easy to separate it from other star stones. The characteristic inclusions seen in star beryl are extremely thin plate-like dendrites of ilmenite (black) and hematite (orange) on the basal plane.
Another feature is the hexagonal shield which is seen at the point where the rays intersect. This unique feature makes it easy to separate it from other star stones. The characteristic inclusions seen in star beryl are extremely thin plate-like dendrites of ilmenite (black) and hematite (orange) on the basal plane.
How To Separate Frequently Encountered Pink Stones
- Visual observation: (10x lens) Look for color, luster, cut, doublet/triplet junctions, if any.
- Determine optic character: Single refractive (SR) / Double refractive (DR) / Anomalous Double refractive (ADR) / Aggregate (AGG).
- Spectrum: Many pink stones may have diagnostic spectrum.
- Microscope: Inclusions may be diagnostic, but look for inclusions that differentiate natural and synthetic, doublet / triplet.
- Dichroscope: Different cutting orientations of natural and synthetic corundum may be revealed by dichroscope.
- Fluorescence: Look under shortwave and longwave for diagnostic colors.
- Immersion cell: Use immersion cell and high refractive index liquid to separate doublets/triplets.
- Refractometer: Confirm spectroscope reading with refractometer.
The pink stones, which may resemble one another in appearance and values, are:
Scapolite (group)
- Hardness: 6
- Specific gravity: 2.50 – 2.71
- Refractive index: 1.54 – 1.58
- Optic sign: Uniaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.009/26
- Other points: Inclusions, color, R.I
Pink Beryl
- Hardness: 7.5
- Specific gravity: 2.80 (average)
- Refractive index: 1.57 – 1.58
- Optic sign: Uniaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.006
- Other points: Inclusions, color. Pink beryl may be treated. Pink beryl may look like Kunzite or glass. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments.
Tourmaline
- Hardness: 7
- Specific gravity: 3.03
- Refractive index: 1.62 – 1.64
- Optic sign: Uniaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.018
- Other points: Inclusions, color, luster. Tourmalines may be treated. Pink tourmaline may look like pink sapphire, pink spinel, pink beryl or glass. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments.
Pink Andalusite
- Hardness: 7.5
- Specific gravity: 3.18
- Refractive index: 1.63 – 1.64
- Optic sign: Biaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.010
- Other points: Color, pleochroism, luster.
Topaz
- Hardness: 8
- Specific gravity: 3.53
- Refractive index: 1.63 – 1.64
- Optic sign: Biaxial positive
- Birefringence: DR; 0.008
- Other points: Color, luster. Topaz may be treated. Pink topaz may look like pink sapphire, pink spinel, pink beryl or glass. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments.
Kunzite
- Hardness: 6.5
- Specific gravity: 3.18
- Refractive index: 1.66 – 1.68
- Optic sign: Biaxial positive
- Birefringence: DR; 0.015
- Other points: Pleochroism, cleavage, inclusions, color (may fade). Kunzite may be treated. Kunzite may look like pink beryl (morganite) or glass. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments.
Spinel
- Hardness: 8
- Specific gravity: 3.60
- Refractive index: 1.718
- Optic sign: SR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Color, spectrum, inclusions. Pink spinel may look like pink sapphire, pink tourmaline, kunzite, pink beryl or glass.
Taaffeite
- Hardness: 8
- Specific gravity: 3.60
- Refractive index: 1.717 – 1.723
- Optic sign: Uniaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.004
- Other points: Rare, color (usually blue purple).
Garnet (rhodolite)
- Hardness: 7.5
- Specific gravity: 3.78 (average)
- Refractive index: 1.75 (average)
- Optic sign: SR/ADR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Color, spectrum. Rhodolite may look like pink to purplish red sapphire, pink to purplish red spinel or glass.
Pink Sapphire
- Hardness: 9
- Specific gravity: 4
- Refractive index: 1.76 – 1.77 (average)
- Optic sign: Uniaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.008
- Other points: Color, inclusions (use microscope to separate natural vs synthetic), fluorescence. Pink sapphire may be treated. Pink sapphire may look like pink tourmaline, pink spinel, kunzite, pink beryl or glass. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Analytical techniques may be required to detect treatment.
Synthetic sapphire
- Hardness: 9
- Specific gravity: 4
- Refractive index: 1.76 – 1.77 (average)
- Optic sign: Uniaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.008
- Other points: Color, inclusions (use microscope to distinguish flux and hydrothermal).
Synthetic cubic zirconia
- Hardness: 8.5
- Specific gravity: 5.65 +
- Refractive index: 2.15 +
- Optic sign: SR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: negative refractive index, luster, color, orange flash on the pavilion, dispersion.
Diamond
- Hardness: 10
- Specific gravity: 3.52
- Refractive index: 2.42
- Optic sign: SR/ADR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: negative refractive index, color, luster, inclusions, spectrum. Pink diamond is quite rare and expensive.
Glass
- Hardness: 5.5
- Specific gravity: 3.70
- Refractive index: 1.60-1.66
- Optic sign: SR/ADR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Soft, color, inclusions (gas bubbles), luster, spectrum
- Determine optic character: Single refractive (SR) / Double refractive (DR) / Anomalous Double refractive (ADR) / Aggregate (AGG).
- Spectrum: Many pink stones may have diagnostic spectrum.
- Microscope: Inclusions may be diagnostic, but look for inclusions that differentiate natural and synthetic, doublet / triplet.
- Dichroscope: Different cutting orientations of natural and synthetic corundum may be revealed by dichroscope.
- Fluorescence: Look under shortwave and longwave for diagnostic colors.
- Immersion cell: Use immersion cell and high refractive index liquid to separate doublets/triplets.
- Refractometer: Confirm spectroscope reading with refractometer.
The pink stones, which may resemble one another in appearance and values, are:
Scapolite (group)
- Hardness: 6
- Specific gravity: 2.50 – 2.71
- Refractive index: 1.54 – 1.58
- Optic sign: Uniaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.009/26
- Other points: Inclusions, color, R.I
Pink Beryl
- Hardness: 7.5
- Specific gravity: 2.80 (average)
- Refractive index: 1.57 – 1.58
- Optic sign: Uniaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.006
- Other points: Inclusions, color. Pink beryl may be treated. Pink beryl may look like Kunzite or glass. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments.
Tourmaline
- Hardness: 7
- Specific gravity: 3.03
- Refractive index: 1.62 – 1.64
- Optic sign: Uniaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.018
- Other points: Inclusions, color, luster. Tourmalines may be treated. Pink tourmaline may look like pink sapphire, pink spinel, pink beryl or glass. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments.
Pink Andalusite
- Hardness: 7.5
- Specific gravity: 3.18
- Refractive index: 1.63 – 1.64
- Optic sign: Biaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.010
- Other points: Color, pleochroism, luster.
Topaz
- Hardness: 8
- Specific gravity: 3.53
- Refractive index: 1.63 – 1.64
- Optic sign: Biaxial positive
- Birefringence: DR; 0.008
- Other points: Color, luster. Topaz may be treated. Pink topaz may look like pink sapphire, pink spinel, pink beryl or glass. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments.
Kunzite
- Hardness: 6.5
- Specific gravity: 3.18
- Refractive index: 1.66 – 1.68
- Optic sign: Biaxial positive
- Birefringence: DR; 0.015
- Other points: Pleochroism, cleavage, inclusions, color (may fade). Kunzite may be treated. Kunzite may look like pink beryl (morganite) or glass. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Analytical techniques may be required to detect treatments.
Spinel
- Hardness: 8
- Specific gravity: 3.60
- Refractive index: 1.718
- Optic sign: SR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Color, spectrum, inclusions. Pink spinel may look like pink sapphire, pink tourmaline, kunzite, pink beryl or glass.
Taaffeite
- Hardness: 8
- Specific gravity: 3.60
- Refractive index: 1.717 – 1.723
- Optic sign: Uniaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.004
- Other points: Rare, color (usually blue purple).
Garnet (rhodolite)
- Hardness: 7.5
- Specific gravity: 3.78 (average)
- Refractive index: 1.75 (average)
- Optic sign: SR/ADR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Color, spectrum. Rhodolite may look like pink to purplish red sapphire, pink to purplish red spinel or glass.
Pink Sapphire
- Hardness: 9
- Specific gravity: 4
- Refractive index: 1.76 – 1.77 (average)
- Optic sign: Uniaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.008
- Other points: Color, inclusions (use microscope to separate natural vs synthetic), fluorescence. Pink sapphire may be treated. Pink sapphire may look like pink tourmaline, pink spinel, kunzite, pink beryl or glass. Gem quality stones are relatively clean. Analytical techniques may be required to detect treatment.
Synthetic sapphire
- Hardness: 9
- Specific gravity: 4
- Refractive index: 1.76 – 1.77 (average)
- Optic sign: Uniaxial negative
- Birefringence: DR; 0.008
- Other points: Color, inclusions (use microscope to distinguish flux and hydrothermal).
Synthetic cubic zirconia
- Hardness: 8.5
- Specific gravity: 5.65 +
- Refractive index: 2.15 +
- Optic sign: SR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: negative refractive index, luster, color, orange flash on the pavilion, dispersion.
Diamond
- Hardness: 10
- Specific gravity: 3.52
- Refractive index: 2.42
- Optic sign: SR/ADR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: negative refractive index, color, luster, inclusions, spectrum. Pink diamond is quite rare and expensive.
Glass
- Hardness: 5.5
- Specific gravity: 3.70
- Refractive index: 1.60-1.66
- Optic sign: SR/ADR
- Birefringence: -
- Other points: Soft, color, inclusions (gas bubbles), luster, spectrum
Star Stone Imitations
The appearance of asterism can be produced on almost any transparent cabochon by cutting hundreds of fine grooves into its base. The grooves are usually cut in three directions with a diamond tool, and a mirror or a mirror-like coating is attached to the back. This creates a 6-rayed star of reasonable intensity. The mirror on the back of the stone and the appearance of the star is quite easy to identify. Usually synthetic gemstones are used in this imitation.
The most effective imitation star stone is made by placing a hollow cabochon of synthetic corundum over a piece of asteriated natural corundum, and then closing the back with a third piece. Once assembled and set in a piece of jewelry the girdle plane can be hidden by the setting. Sometimes a slice of black star corundum is glued to the back of the cabochon of synthetic corundum. The assembled stones can easily identified by their separation planes.
Another good imitation star stone is made up of a white opaque glass which is pressed into a mold to form cabochon with six raised ridges on the crown. The ridged cabochon is then coated with a thin layer of deep blue glaze which barely covers the ridges. The finished stone has a very similar appearance to a natural star sapphire with the star on or just below the surface. The stones are easy to identify because the stars does not move or roll across the surface when the stone is turned. Physical constants are typical of glass, not corundum.
Star diopside and star enstatite are two less-known inexpensive stones, which are often confused with one another. Both may display four rayed stars which meet at almost 90º. The reason for confusion is that they are frequently mixed into the same lots and sold as black stars. Star diopside usually display very sharp star, while enstatite may show weaker more diffused star and a unique bronzy sheen. Enstatite may also display eight rayed star.
The most effective imitation star stone is made by placing a hollow cabochon of synthetic corundum over a piece of asteriated natural corundum, and then closing the back with a third piece. Once assembled and set in a piece of jewelry the girdle plane can be hidden by the setting. Sometimes a slice of black star corundum is glued to the back of the cabochon of synthetic corundum. The assembled stones can easily identified by their separation planes.
Another good imitation star stone is made up of a white opaque glass which is pressed into a mold to form cabochon with six raised ridges on the crown. The ridged cabochon is then coated with a thin layer of deep blue glaze which barely covers the ridges. The finished stone has a very similar appearance to a natural star sapphire with the star on or just below the surface. The stones are easy to identify because the stars does not move or roll across the surface when the stone is turned. Physical constants are typical of glass, not corundum.
Star diopside and star enstatite are two less-known inexpensive stones, which are often confused with one another. Both may display four rayed stars which meet at almost 90º. The reason for confusion is that they are frequently mixed into the same lots and sold as black stars. Star diopside usually display very sharp star, while enstatite may show weaker more diffused star and a unique bronzy sheen. Enstatite may also display eight rayed star.
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