Magen David Diamond Cut

Get to know Embee Diamond Technologies. http://www.embeediatech.ca

Gem-cutting Competition 2012

Get to know the 8 winners of IU Awards, the world's first international gem cutting and jewelry design competition.

Useful links:
http://www.iuawards.com/cmpcms/GemCuttingCompetitionEntries/tabid/4421/language/en-US/Default.aspx
http://www.jewellerynewsasia.com/en/news/4892/ICA-UBM-announce-IU-Awards-winners.html

The Butterfly Gem Cut

Fresh + Creative. One-of-a-kind look. http://www.bfly.ca

The Artistic Mysteries Of Gem Carving

Mark your calendar. Gem-carving presentation by Glenn Lehrer. March 19, 2011, at Bonhams & Butterfields, San Francisco.

Useful links:
http://www.bonhams.com
http://www.lehrerdesigns.com

How To Manufacture A Diamond

Take a look. http://www.safdico.com

Erik Martinez

Colored stones into brilliant art. I loved Erik's carvings. They are simply beautiful. http://www.tldesignergems.com

Gemstone Carvings: The Masterworks Of Harold Van Pelt

Gemstone Carvings: The Masterworks of Harold Van Pelt. Harold Van Pelt has created delicate carvings out of quartz, agate and other stones, a pastime he's had for 40 years but rarely showcased. The exhibit is the first in the Bowers' new PIMCO Foundation Gallery. http://www.bowers.org

Lawrence Stoller

Take a look at Stoller's gemstone artistry @ www.crystalworks.com

From Raw Stone To Ring

Very interesting images indeed. A picture is worth a thousand words.

Useful link:
www.tiffany.com

New Gem Cutting Styles

How Optix® Facets Work. Check out the link www.byrex.com

Carvers And Collectors

The Getty Center, Los Angeles runs an exhibition named 'Carvers and Collectors' through September 7, 2009 at the Getty Villa. This exhibition features intaglios and cameos carved by ancient master engravers + outstanding works by modern carvers that illustrate the lasting allure of gems. Don't miss. Check out the link www.getty.edu

Champagne Citrine Gallery

John Dyer's fancy cuts were stunningly beautiful. Check out the link www.johndyergems.com

The Wittelsbach Diamond

More Blue, Less Provenance

http://www.colored-stone.com/stories/may09/wittelsbach.cfm

Useful links:

www.graffdiamonds.com

www.acagemlab.com

I completely agree with the author (s). This diamond is a piece of history + it is a masterpiece that should be left as such. I think.

Cabulous Gems

Fabulous, Cabulous!
http://www.lapidaryjournal.com/feature/fabulous-cabulous.cfm

The gem trade is a huge international business, but the small, independent gem cutter who gathers rough, seeks the best potential in a certain slab, and brings the inner beauty of that stone to light in a splendid cabochon is often the best source for unique or rare material for artisan jewelry making.
- Helen I. Driggs

Spot on.

Dalan Hargrave

Dalan Hargrave is an award-winning gemstone artist. I am completely awe struck by the intricacy of detail and innovation in his designs. Check out the link www.gemstarz.com

Michael Dyber

Gemstone Carvings by Michael Dyber
www.dyber.net

Michael's unique lapidary techniques are one-of-a-kind work of art. They are stunningly beautiful and a marvel to watch.

Emerald Update

Ronald Ringsrud has the latest information on emerald production from Colombia's premier mines, Muzo, La Pita and Coscuez + emerald proportions @ www.emeraldmine.com

I found the article on proportions educational + insightful. I learned something new. Thanks, Ron.

Predicting The Elusive Fourth C

Antwerp Facets (April 2007) writes:

A machine that will predict a diamond’s clarity has proven an elusive goal in the industry. Indeed, the difficulty in doing so left clarity as the only one of the 4C’s which could not be forecast by readily available technology.

An Antwerp company set up last year, however, believes it has created equipment that will give diamantaires the ultimate solution to diamond planning, since they will be able to see inclusions and their precise location.

Matrix Diamond Technology was established by Paul Van der Steen and Ziad Al-Ahmadi. Van der Steen, with 30 years of experience in the diamond manufacturing business, is responsible for the firm’s proprietary technology, while Al-Ahmadi, who has long experience in the cutting and manufacturing of stones, provides the hands-on diamond expertise.

Matrix Diamond Technology came about as the result of a relationship with a Russian company called Octanus. It involves a scanner that measures the outside geometry or topography of the diamond, and then enables the diamantaire, in Van der Steen’s words, ‘to look right into the stone and see what is inside. If you have the exact location of inclusions, this allows the full optimization of the rough stone so that the most highly efficient and high-yielding polished diamond can be produced. This is the ultimate dream, because this gives the diamantaire the map of the rough diamond. The only way currently to get a similar view is to polish little windows on the rough stone to look inside it. Our software shows you the best sawing plane, the best place to cut the diamond for optimal results. That’s why our slogan is ‘Ever dreamt of polishing the same stone twice.’

A built-in price list enables real time decisions on the best cuts and sizes by providing up-to-the minute prices. This means that the system can change the user’s original plans for how he planned to cut the stone. It shows how to cut the main stone and what type and size of satellite stones can be achieved. ‘The Matrix vision is that if you cannot get close enough commercially to the value of the diamond then you will not be able to compete in the market. We are bringing substantial added value,’ Van der Steen explained.

The system’s camera takes 800 shadow pictures as the basis for creating a 3-D model of the stone, and 200 images as the diamond is turned which allows the 3-D model to be placed on top of a picture of the rough. This allows the precise location of inclusions to be seen on the photograph of the diamond. ‘With a microscope you are not able to see as precisely where the inclusions are, but with our system you see its exact location,’ Van der Steen explained, adding that inclusions can be identified down to the level of VVS1.

Regarding the issue of increasing yields, he said there were three levels for achieving this, and thus improving margins. ‘The first one is key weights. There are certain situations where a small difference in weight equals a very large difference in price. Take two stones, one weighing 4.95 carats and the other 5.03 carats. That tiny difference in weight is very large in money terms. It is important to increase the key weights. If you have stones weighing 5.5 carats and 4.7 carats, our system finds solutions that allow for creating two stones of 5 carats each.’

Next, there is the problem associated with the classic approach to rough planning where a relatively large reserve is needed when sawing on the cutting plane for the main stone. This usually means the secondary stone is much smaller due to the need for a reserve. And then, after cutting, the reserve on the main stone is polished off which is clearly a waste of the rough. ‘Due to our precise capabilities, we reduce the reserve and save more of the diamond. Diamantaires want to raise their margins and these are classic ways to do so,’ Van den Steen said.

The third level relates to the optimizing of a stone being cut into two or more diamonds. ‘In the classic way, the main stone is cut, and only then one looks at the possibilities for the other stones. This optimization is important because in a 20 carat stone, for example, the satellite stones can be 3 carats each. Here, you can take an overview of the stone and see all the possibilities right from the beginning.’

Meanwhile, Al Ahmadi, the owner of United Cutting and Marketing, said Matrix is projecting itself to strategic partners such as serious rough suppliers. ‘All diamond companies want to add value to their stock. Miners, for example, are looking to add to their margins. I believe they are selling at a lower price than they could achieve if they knew more precisely what was in the diamond.’

He said the end game for Matrix is as a partner to a big brother and supplying them with high-tech equipment that has been unequivocally proven. ‘The system was born out of necessity since margins have become so small nowadays. A system like this would not have been developed 20 years ago because the margins then allowed all diamond firms, from sightholders to small and medium firms to manufacture and get away with healthy margins. Put simply: the business was easier then.’

Al Ahmadi said many diamantaires were barely making any profit. ‘We are offering solutions based on our knowledge of the industry. The miners supply their clients, but they do not know exactly what their clients are getting from the stones. With our system, we can tell them precisely what is in the stone. Sighholders, today more than ever, need results and our system helps them achieve that because we can eliminate mistakes. We are currently talking with two of the top 10 sightholders in the world about using our system. They are giving us diamonds to work on with them as partners.’

An Unusual Gem Deposit (Man-Made) at Pallebedda, Sri Lanka

An intriguing tale from Sri Lanka. Gemstones are full of surprises and the ones with accumulated luck and knowledge always find them.

(via Journal of Gemmology, Vol.28, No.1, Jan 2002) M D P L Francis and P G R Dharmaratne writes:

Abstract
An unusual gem deposit (man-made) lies in the remote village of Pallebedda in Sri Lanka. This deposit is known as ‘walankatu illama’ which lies within the bund or embankment of an abandoned tank called Kandiyapalle (alias Bisokotuwa). Second rate material from a jewelry industry of ancient times was included probably at the time of its construction. This deposit contains many archaeological artifacts including many varieties of beads, rough gems, gem carvings, glass and coins, but it is mined by villagers mainly for the precious stones because they cab be most easily marketed.

Introduction
Sri Lanka is renowned for its wide variety of fine quality gemstones such as sapphire, ruby, chrysoberyl, alexandrite, spinel and beryl. Most of these gems are found as alluvial deposits in ancient buried or existing stream beds and low-lying areas. There are several primary outcrop deposits but the gems found in them are commonly not of the best quality, other than those found at the moonstone deposit of Meetiyagoda.

Gem deposits in Sri Lanka are classified according to their distance of transportation from the source, by the shapes and sizes of the rock and mineral fragments found. Gem bearing beds where angular minerals and rocks have been deposited in situ are named as residual gem deposits. Gem bearing layers found on the hill slopes with minerals and rock fragments that are semi-rounded or rounded are termed eluvial gem deposits. The third type of gem deposit is alluvial, which is by far the most prevalent in Sri Lanka. These deposits generally lie in old stream beds, far away from their sources and are characterized by the presence of well rounded heavy minerals, indicating longer distances of transportation.

In Sri Lanka there is currently no scientific approach towards gem exploration. Established gem miners who can afford to invest in land, to purchase a license to prospect for gems and other expenses, always follow the trails of illicit gem miners. Some people find gems during their day-to-day activities such as construction of a well or while ploughing their farmlands. However, the type of gem deposit to be discussed in this paper is somewhat different to the three kinds of deposit outlined above.

Along the Ratnapura-Embilipitiya road, 21 km from Embilipitiya, is a village of Pallebedda, a gem trading center, which has existed since ancient times. Six km north east of Pallebedda is the small village of Galpaya, with an abandoned tank named Kandiyapalle alias Bisokotuwa Wewa. The bund (embankment) which encloses the tank contains hidden treasure consisting of a variety of gems, beads, and carvings made of different materials. These artifacts and gems occur in a layer in the bund, 60 to 180 cm thick, which local people call ‘walankatu illama’. In Sinhalese, ‘walankatu’ refers to pieces of earthenware and ‘illama’ refers to gem deposit. The artifacts beat witness to how knowledgeable the ancient civilization of Sri Lanka was and to their standard of living. The gem carvings exhibit the most intricate and delicate workmanship and provide evidence of a sophisticated technology of the time.

Historical records
According to several authors there is evidence that this area was once a flourishing agricultural village. R L Brohier, Surveyor General during colonial times, describes this tank with reference to a Mr Collins and a Mr Mitford who was Assistant Government Agent, Sabaragamuva Province in 1848. According to the quotes this tank was quite beautiful at the time and had watered nearly a thousand acres of paddy fields. There is an ancient stone pillar situated in the village with an inscription dating to the tenth century A.D which indicates that the village was called Girimandula. It is not certain as to who built the tank but according to folklore the builder was King Vijayabahu I (1055-1110).

Materials found
For the villager, ‘walankatu illama’ is merelya gem deposit, unique because artifacts were found among the buried potsherds. This deposit is located along the tank bund that extends for more than 3.2 km (two miles). At a depth of 60 to 120 cm from the top surface lies the layer called the ‘walankatu illama’ with an abundance of potsherds. The thickness of the layer ranges from 60 to 180 cm. The layer is easily identified and the material is washed as usual in large wicker baskets to extract the gem material. A general idea as to the percentage of the earthenware material contained in the illama can be formed from the heaps of debris found in the vicinity of the washing sites. The miners are interested only in the gems, carvings and beads that fetch high prices. The highest prices are obtained for gems such sapphire, geuda, pushparaga (yellow sapphire), chrysoberyl, etc. Even among these gems there are instances of finding stones with drill holes to indicate that they were once discarded as valueless, owing to imperfections detected during the process of drilling. Other than these, various kinds of objects have been found within the area, and these include many kinds of beads, clay utensils, glass bangles, stone cameos, intaglios, coins and bones.

The illama contains many types of large and small beads in a variety of shapes. These include, glass, carnelian, agate, amethyst, terracotta, garnet, feldspar, rock crystal, chrysoberyl and zircon. These stones are called ‘mukkaru gal’ by the villagers, because most have drill holes which identify them as the raw material of a trade practiced for a living by a segment of society known as mukkaru. The most sought after beads (mukkaru gal) were the beads made of gem materials such as conrundum or amethyst.

At this site agate beads and clear glass beads have also been found in large quantities. According to archaeological dating, clear glass was made at a later date than colored glass. As in many other places, carnelian beads of many shapes and sizes found at this site are believed to be from India. Pieces of beads broken during production, unfinished beads and discarded second-rate material suggest that there had been jewelry workshops here during ancient times.

Terracotta beads of various shapes and sizes are very common, the majority being disc-shaped; the larger ones are embedded with a tiny copper wire to strengthen the bead—an example of the ingenuity of the ancient craftsmen.

Almost all the beads show clear evidence of how they were drilled. The abrasion marks indicate that they were drilled from both ends to meet in the middle, and commonly this resulted in a slight disorientation in the center.

The question arises as to how they drilled tiny holes through these very hard substances. Some are of the opinion that emery powder and iron drill bits were used. If this is the case, how were the hard materials like sapphires drilled? Even for other gem species, it could have taken a very long time using this method to drill a single bead. Large numbers of beads found in the area suggest that the drillers were experts. Is it possible that they could have used diamond drill bits exported from India for the purpose of drilling? According to Henry Parker the bow-driven drill was familiar to locals in Sri Lanka from the second century B C onwards. So it is a fair assumption that they used this type of drill along with diamond drill bits to drill with ease large quantities of beads and to cope with the harder gems such as sapphire. A number of stones of hard materials such as sapphire and spinel that contain multiple drill holes of the same gauge or different gauges have been found. This could have happened as a result of testing the gauges of drill bits on these stones.

The most interesting materials found in this deposit are not the beads or the clay utensils but the most intricately carved cameos and intaglios. These carvings are mostly in materials such as carnelian, rock crystal and colored glasses, and very rarely in other types of material—one such rare type is chrysoberyl. Some carvings depict a cow in a seated position and three cows carved are similar to an ancient painting of an Egyptian goddess. The human figures carved are of both males and females. The female figures are mainly of dancers and of semi-nude woman meant to be either a dancer or more probably a goddess adorned with masks. Male figures include a hunter with his weapon and a dead animal, a seated Buddha in meditation and a man dragging a child bound with ropes, scratched on rock crystal (wessantara jataka, a parable of Buddhism).

Conclusion
These materials are much older than the date of construction of the dam, and this layer found within the dam was the fill material for the bund excavated from the nearby ancient work sites, where the clay utensils, beads and other carvings were manufactured. According to many experts, the materials can be dated from the first to the twelfth century A D. Therefore the assumption is that at the time the mukkaru people lived and worked in this vicinity in large numbers. The artifacts are of very good craftsmanship although they were made using the most primitive methods and instruments. In terms of the intricacy of the carvings and the quality of the drill holes in the sapphire they are not inferior to today’s standards. They are also remarkable aesthetically.

This is an unusual gem deposit because it contains artifacts that had been once discarded by people who were only interested in gems of value (precious material). Sometimes a villager who has found a carved artifact of a precious stone may try to erase the carving by grinding it on a lap to make a faceted gem. This would find a more ready market than the carvings, which are considered as archaeological artifacts and cannot be sold on the open market.

How To Judge Different Styles Of Cut

Cutting style is the category under which facet shapes and arrangements are classified. Generally, a faceted gem will fall into one of the categories listed below, although the cutting may sometimes be so poor as to render the cutting style unidentifiable. A facet is a flat, polished surface on a fashioned gemstone.

Brilliant cut: The brilliant cut is probably the best-known cut because most diamonds are cut in this style. Its design is aimed at providing a combination of brilliance, dispersion ('fire') and scintillation ('sparkle'). All facets except the table and culet are triangular or kite shaped; this style is very common in diamonds, but is also seen in many other gems.

Step cut: The step or emerald cut consists of facets cut with parallel sides which are arranged in steps. This style is very common for emeralds, but is also seen in many other colored stones. Its chief attribute is the ability to show off a gem's color.

Mixed cut: The objective of the mixed cut is to obtain as much weight as possible from the rough. As the name implies, the mixed cut is a mixture of two styles, the brilliant and step cuts. Optically, it can also be attractive. Rubies and sapphires are frequently cut in this style, as are many other gems.

Scissors cut: This is not a particularly common cut, because it tends to waste large amounts of rough. Because of this, it is mainly limited to cheap synthetic materials. Hence, a scissors cut will indicate, but not prove, the possibility of a synthetic gem. The scissors cut is a series of long triangular- and kite-shaped facets on a rectangular stone.

Native cut: This is not so much a cutting style as a lack of style. The term native cut generally is synonymous with poorly cut. Facets are often misshapen and may not even be flat. In the Sri Lankan version of this cut, the table facet is often square or rectangular instead of the usual octagonal shape. Proportions are frequently lumpy, as the stones are cut with only weight retention in mind.

Princess cut: This is a relatively new cut but is a variation of the Barion Cut. The stones have ordinary step crowns. All of the pavilion facets except the long break facet along each side are usually no more than four degrees greater than the culet angle. A good number of facets end as a point at the girdle. The stones remain true squares, rectangles, triangles, etc. by having the facets end at the long break facet. The stones are exceedingly brilliant throughout. The square princess has twenty eight pavilion facets.

Cabochon cut: One of the oldest cutting styles, the cabochon employs no facets at all. Rather it is a smooth, polished dome which can be very high, very low, or some variation in between. It is the best style to display fine colored gems of lesser transparency. Hence, highly-flawed rubies, emeralds, etc., may be cut as cabochons; also jadeite, nephrite, star rubies and star sapphires. Cabochons come in two main types: single cabs and double cabs.