How To Judge Different Styles Of Cut

Cutting style is the category under which facet shapes and arrangements are classified. Generally, a faceted gem will fall into one of the categories listed below, although the cutting may sometimes be so poor as to render the cutting style unidentifiable. A facet is a flat, polished surface on a fashioned gemstone.

Brilliant cut: The brilliant cut is probably the best-known cut because most diamonds are cut in this style. Its design is aimed at providing a combination of brilliance, dispersion ('fire') and scintillation ('sparkle'). All facets except the table and culet are triangular or kite shaped; this style is very common in diamonds, but is also seen in many other gems.

Step cut: The step or emerald cut consists of facets cut with parallel sides which are arranged in steps. This style is very common for emeralds, but is also seen in many other colored stones. Its chief attribute is the ability to show off a gem's color.

Mixed cut: The objective of the mixed cut is to obtain as much weight as possible from the rough. As the name implies, the mixed cut is a mixture of two styles, the brilliant and step cuts. Optically, it can also be attractive. Rubies and sapphires are frequently cut in this style, as are many other gems.

Scissors cut: This is not a particularly common cut, because it tends to waste large amounts of rough. Because of this, it is mainly limited to cheap synthetic materials. Hence, a scissors cut will indicate, but not prove, the possibility of a synthetic gem. The scissors cut is a series of long triangular- and kite-shaped facets on a rectangular stone.

Native cut: This is not so much a cutting style as a lack of style. The term native cut generally is synonymous with poorly cut. Facets are often misshapen and may not even be flat. In the Sri Lankan version of this cut, the table facet is often square or rectangular instead of the usual octagonal shape. Proportions are frequently lumpy, as the stones are cut with only weight retention in mind.

Princess cut: This is a relatively new cut but is a variation of the Barion Cut. The stones have ordinary step crowns. All of the pavilion facets except the long break facet along each side are usually no more than four degrees greater than the culet angle. A good number of facets end as a point at the girdle. The stones remain true squares, rectangles, triangles, etc. by having the facets end at the long break facet. The stones are exceedingly brilliant throughout. The square princess has twenty eight pavilion facets.

Cabochon cut: One of the oldest cutting styles, the cabochon employs no facets at all. Rather it is a smooth, polished dome which can be very high, very low, or some variation in between. It is the best style to display fine colored gems of lesser transparency. Hence, highly-flawed rubies, emeralds, etc., may be cut as cabochons; also jadeite, nephrite, star rubies and star sapphires. Cabochons come in two main types: single cabs and double cabs.