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Friday, November 16, 2007

A Flat-Bottomed Variety Of The Pointed Star Cut

(via Diamond Cuts in Historic Jewelry:1381-1910) Herbert Tillander writes:

In 1896 Bauer described a flat-bottomed, eightfold variant of the Pointed Star Cut, which he introduced as a ‘Cross Rose’. However, his drawings are not even of a diamond but of a cinnamon stone, a type of garnet. In fact, no such diamond has ever been documented, so Bauer’s ‘Cross Rose’ has no place in diamond history.

However, my attention was caught by a casual remark by Alfred Eppler and a line drawing of a cut similar to Bauer’s, although crowned, which he inconsistently called a Rose. Later I came across a reproduction of an engraving by Wenceslas Hollar, which showed some half a dozen examples of type drawn by Eppler. Hollar’s engraving suggests a jeweled badge of an Order of the Garter, for which the diamonds, including the flat-bottomed Star Cuts, must still have been available even though they were by the obsolete. In 1523 Henry VIII had given express permission for those on whom he had conferred the Order of the Garter to decorate their insignias ‘at their pleasure.’ The drawing by Hollar is clearly a design for one such order. Although both Bauer and Eppler were wrong in calling their stones ‘Roses’ of any sort, Hollar must have had a number of such stones—at least, those depicted by Eppler—at his disposal in order to include so many in his design.

In appears that in the sixteenth century flat-bottomed Pointed Star Cuts of the type found in the Order of the Garter were occasionally fashioned from discarded Indian Tablet Cuts (flat Table Cuts with table and culet facets of approximately the same size). Strangely enough, these may even be forerunners of the Standard Full Rose Cut (also known as the Dutch, or Holland, Rose), a design with six-fold symmetry which was first introduced around 1600 when, at the large cutting centers of the Netherlands, cleaving became a separate, specialized profession.

Thursday, November 15, 2007

Teaching Yourself Programming In Ten Years

Here is an interesting essay ( http://www.norvig.com/21-days.html) on Peter Norvig's site: Teach Yourself Programming in Ten Years

Norvig was spot on. He was writing about computers. In my view, there are no books on how to learn gem and jewelry business, gem identification and treatments, grading of diamonds and colored stones, in a few days. It's a big joke. A little learning can be a dangerous thing. There are no real short cuts. Researchers (Hayes, Bloom) have shown it takes about ten years to develop expertise in any of a wide variety of areas.

Yojimbo

Yojimbo (1961)
Directed by: Akira Kurosawa
Screenplay: Ryuzo Kikushima, Akira Kurosawa
Cast: Toshiro Mifune, Tatsuya Nakadai

(via YouTube): 'Yojimbo' Akira Kurosawa. Trailer
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YArp_JuwWAA

Yojimbo - End Showdown
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eijUlCEAyAw

A real gem. It's fascinating + delightful to watch Kurosawa films. I enjoyed it.

Warhol 'Liz' Painting Sells For US$23M

(via AP) Andy Warhol's turquoise-background Elizabeth Taylor portrait sold for $23.7 million Tuesday (November 13, 2007) at Christie's auction house to an anonymous bidder.

Useful link:
http://news.yahoo.com/s/ap/20071114/ap_en_ot/warhol_auction

Screen Savers

Carly Berwick writes about artist-museum conservation partnership concepts + how to save from obsolescence Net art and its new-media siblings + the rapid pace of technological innovation + other viewpoints @ http://artnews.com/issues/article.asp?art_id=1170

Making A Difference

Sylvia Hochfield writes about Andrew Decker’s 'A Legacy of Shame,' the first of dozens of articles by ARTnews writers on the subject of artworks looted by the Nazis during World War II + other viewpoints @ http://www.artnews.com/anniversary/top7.asp

Jean-Baptiste Tavernier’s Travels In India

Concerning Diamonds, And The Mines And Rivers Where They Are Found; And Especially Of The Author’s Journey To The Mine Of Rammalakota
(via Jean-Baptiste Tavernier’s Travels In India / V Ball / Edited by William Crooke)

When I arrived at Golkonda, three days had elapsed since the death of Boete, the apothecary, and the room where I had left him had been sealed with two seals—one that of the Kazi, who corresponds to the Chief Justice, and the other that of Shahbandar, who is the Provost of the merchants. An officer of justice watched the door of the chamber together with the servants whom I had left with the deceased. Immediately on my arrival the fact was announced to the Kazi and the Shanbandar, and forthwith they sent for me.

After I had saluted them, the Kazi asked me whether the money which was in the chamber of the deceased was mine, and how I could prove it. I said I had no better proof to show him than the letters of exchange which I had given to the Shroff, and that since my departure he had by my orders paid the sum to the deceased; that I had instructed the latter in case the Shroff paid in silver to change it into golden pagodas, and forward them to me. Upon his reply, they sent to call the two Shroffs who had paid my bills, to know if it was true, and as they agreed that it was, the Kazi forthwith ordered his lieutenant to open the door of the room, and see if the seals were intact on all the bags. He did not leave till he had my assurance that I had found the full sum, and that nothing was wanting. I returned with him to make the same declaration to the Kazi and the Shahbandar, and to thank them for their trouble, and it ended by my signing a document which they had written in Persian, in which I testified my satisfaction.

The lieutenant told me that I must pay the charges of the burial of Boete, those due to the persons who had placed the seals, and to the officer who had kept guard at the door of the chamber. These all amounted to but 9 rupees, or 4½ ecus of our money. One would not have got off so easily in most places in Europe.

Journey of the author to other mines, and concerning the method of searching for diamonds.

Seven days journey east of Golconda there is another diamond mine, called Gani in the language of the country, and Coulour in the Persian tongue.

It is close to a large town on the same river which I crossed when coming from the other mine, and at a league and a half from the town there are high mountains in the form of a cross. The space between the town and the mountains is a plain where the mine is situated and the diamonds are found. The nearer one searches toward the mountains the larger the stones which are found, but when one ascends too high nothing is found.

It is only about 100 years since this mine was discovered when a poor man, digging a piece of ground where he purposed to sow millet, found a pointe naive weighing nearly 25 carats. This kind of stone being unknown to him, and appearing remarkable, he carried it to Golkonda, and by good luck addressed himself to one who traded in diamonds. The trader having ascertained from the peasant the place where he had found the stone, was much surprised to see a diamond of such a weight, especially because the largest that had hitherto been seen did not exceed 10 or 12 carats.

The rumor of this new discovery quickly spread abroad throughout all the country, and some persons of wealth in the town commenced to mine in this land, where they found, and where they still find, large stones in greater abundance than in any other mine. They are found here at present, I say, many stones from 10 up to 40 carats, and sometimes indeed much larger; among others the great diamond which weighed 900 carats before cutting, which Mir Jumla presented to Aurangzeb, as I have elsewhere related.

But if this mine of Kollur is of importance on account of the number of large stones which are found there, it is a misfortune that, as a rule, these stones are not clear, and that their water contains indications of the quality of the soil where they are found. If the soil is marshy and humid, the stone tends to blackness; if it is reddish, it tends to red, and so with the other conditions, sometimes towards green, sometimes towards yellow, just as there is diversity of soil in the area between the town and the mountain. Upon the majority of these stones, after they are cut, there always appears a kind of grease which necessitates one always carrying a handkerchief in the hand in order to wipe them.

As regards the water of the stones, it is to be remarked that instead of, as in Europe, employing daylight for the examination of stones in the rough (brutes), and so carefully judging their water and any flaws which they may contain, the Indians do this at night; and they place in a hole which they excavate in a wall, one foot square, a lamp with a large wick, by the light of which they judge of the water and the cleanness of the stone, as they hold it between their fingers. The water which they term ‘celestial’ is the worst of all, and it is impossible to ascertain whether it is present while the stone is in the rough. But though it may not be apparent on the mill, the never-failing test for correctly ascertaining the water is afforded by taking the stone under a leafy tree, and in the green shadow one can easily detect if it is blue.

The first time I was at this mine there were nearly 60000 persons working there, including men, women, and children, who are employed in diverse ways, the men in digging, the women and children in carrying earth, for they search for the stones at this mine in an altogether different manner from that practised at Rammalakota.

Jean-Baptiste Tavernier’s Travels In India (continued)

Rhapsody In Blue

(via YouTube): George Gershwin's Rhapsody in Blue part1/2
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yiyc9Ak3EtQ

George Gershwin's - Rhapsody in Blue part 2/2
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NOcuvv01nO4

I loved it.