Pablo Neruda writes:
I invite you to topaz
to the hive
of the yellow stone
to its bees
to the honey congealed
of the topaz
to its day of gold
to the family
of tranquility reverberant;
we are talking of a church
minimal, settled in a flower
like a bee, like
the structure of the sun, leaf of autumn
of the deepest yellow,
of the tree burning
ray to ray, lightning to corolla,
insect and honey and autumn
transformed in the salt of the sun:
this honey, this trembling of the world,
this wheat of the sky
worked out till it converted
to tranquil sun, in pallid topaz.
Tuesday, January 30, 2007
The Pearl King
By Robert Eunson
1955 Greenberg: Publisher
55-10964
Greenberg writes:
The life story of a street peddler of noodles and sea food who became one of Japan’s richest and most beloved men.
Born in Toba on the southern coast of Japan, Mikimoto became acutely aware of the depletion of the once rich pearl fisheries off the shores of his village. Toward the end of the last century he began experiments to induce oysters to produce pearls. After twelve years of costly and discouraging failures, he hit upon the secret of inserting a granule of mother-of-pearl into the flesh of a three-year-old oyster. The defense mechanism of the oyster then coated the granule until it became a smooth, round pearl.
By 1913, Mikimoto had produced cultured pearls that were outwardly indistinguishable from natural ones. He created a sensation in the pearl marts of the world by offering his pearls at one quarter of the current price. Only a special x-ray machine could detect the difference between Mikimoto’s pearls and the natural ones.
Mikomoto pearl salons were opened in Los Angeles, San Francisco, Chicago, New York, Paris, Bombay, Shanghai, and Kobe. At the height of his career, Mikimoto had 12 million oysters producing 75 percent of the world’s pearls.
But the Pearl King is not merely the story of the birth and growth of a bizarre and gigantic commercial enterprise; it is also the story of the simple, lovable man who discovered the secret and built the business. So astounding were the reports and rumors about him that people came from far corners of the earth to visit him on his almost legendary Pearl Island.
Until he was almost 90 he entertained his factory workers with his juggling feats and conjuring magic. At 94, he was still hale and hearty, still actively managing his business.
Always a great friend and admirer of the United States, Mikimoto refused to support the Japanese warlords during World War II. He spent the war years in seclusion with his family on Pearl Island.
All in all, The Pearl King is one of the most unusual biographies of our century.
1955 Greenberg: Publisher
55-10964
Greenberg writes:
The life story of a street peddler of noodles and sea food who became one of Japan’s richest and most beloved men.
Born in Toba on the southern coast of Japan, Mikimoto became acutely aware of the depletion of the once rich pearl fisheries off the shores of his village. Toward the end of the last century he began experiments to induce oysters to produce pearls. After twelve years of costly and discouraging failures, he hit upon the secret of inserting a granule of mother-of-pearl into the flesh of a three-year-old oyster. The defense mechanism of the oyster then coated the granule until it became a smooth, round pearl.
By 1913, Mikimoto had produced cultured pearls that were outwardly indistinguishable from natural ones. He created a sensation in the pearl marts of the world by offering his pearls at one quarter of the current price. Only a special x-ray machine could detect the difference between Mikimoto’s pearls and the natural ones.
Mikomoto pearl salons were opened in Los Angeles, San Francisco, Chicago, New York, Paris, Bombay, Shanghai, and Kobe. At the height of his career, Mikimoto had 12 million oysters producing 75 percent of the world’s pearls.
But the Pearl King is not merely the story of the birth and growth of a bizarre and gigantic commercial enterprise; it is also the story of the simple, lovable man who discovered the secret and built the business. So astounding were the reports and rumors about him that people came from far corners of the earth to visit him on his almost legendary Pearl Island.
Until he was almost 90 he entertained his factory workers with his juggling feats and conjuring magic. At 94, he was still hale and hearty, still actively managing his business.
Always a great friend and admirer of the United States, Mikimoto refused to support the Japanese warlords during World War II. He spent the war years in seclusion with his family on Pearl Island.
All in all, The Pearl King is one of the most unusual biographies of our century.
Monday, January 29, 2007
Gem Poetry
Pablo Neruda writes:
Here is the tree in the pure stone,
in the evidence, in the durable beauty
formed over a hundred million years.
Agate and carnelian and luminaries
replaced saps and wood
till the trunk of the giant
rejected the damp putrefaction
and amalgamated a parallel statue
the living foliage
stripped itself
and when the vertical was flattened,
consumed the forest, the igneous pall,
the celestial ashes covered it
till time and lava bestowed
a guerdon of transparent stone.
Here is the tree in the pure stone,
in the evidence, in the durable beauty
formed over a hundred million years.
Agate and carnelian and luminaries
replaced saps and wood
till the trunk of the giant
rejected the damp putrefaction
and amalgamated a parallel statue
the living foliage
stripped itself
and when the vertical was flattened,
consumed the forest, the igneous pall,
the celestial ashes covered it
till time and lava bestowed
a guerdon of transparent stone.
Rajesh Exports On Global Prowl
(Via Times News Network) Vivek Sinha writes:
In what would mark the first big-ticket global acquisition in the retail space, jewellery manufacturer Rajesh Exports is in an advanced stage of negotiations to acquire a string of jewellery retail stores abroad for $100-200 million. The company is working on a complex deal where it is going to acquire a mid-size jewellery chain in the US apart from snapping standalone local jewellers in about 15 countries across North America, Europe, Asia and Australia.
According to sources, the US jewellery chain, with which Rajesh Exports is in talks, has about 80-100 stores spread across the country and the deal is expected to be valued at around $50-100 million. This would include its in-house jewellery brands. Rajesh Exports is looking to acquire a majority stake in this chain.
When contacted, Rajesh Exports chairman Rajesh Mehta declined to comment. However, sources informed ET that Mr Mehta is flying off to the US this week to deliberate on the transaction. This deal is expected to be closed within the next 4-6 weeks. The acquisition of the US-based chain by Rajesh Exports is part of a gameplan of becoming a large global retailer of jewellery.
Other countries where negotiations are currently on include the UK, Canada, France, Germany, Switzerland, Thailand, Malaysia, Australia, Singapore, the UAE, Kuwait, Oman and New Zealand. The company would acquire a handful of jewellery retail outlets in each of these countries spread across 35 cities totalling about 50-60 stores.
This strategy is similar to the company’s ongoing retail expansion in India where one of its retail brands — Shubh — is modelled on similar lines by bringing local jewellers in different cities under its umbrella. All the international retail outlets would be under its wholly-owned retailing subsidiary — 24K Retail.
Sources say that the acquisition will be financed through a mix of debt and equity. The company has already announced that it is planning to raise about $150 million from overseas investors, which will part-fund the acquisitions.
The acquisitions would make Rajesh Exports the first Indian retailer with a global spread of outlets. In terms of the number of stores, GHCL may still rank as the largest Indian retailer internationally. The company had last year acquired UK’s home textile retailer Rosebys which has more than 300 stores in the UK.
More info @ http://economictimes.indiatimes.com/News/News_By_Industry/Cons_Products/Fashion__CosmeticsJewellery/Rajesh_Exports_on_global_prowl/articleshow/1361876.cms
In what would mark the first big-ticket global acquisition in the retail space, jewellery manufacturer Rajesh Exports is in an advanced stage of negotiations to acquire a string of jewellery retail stores abroad for $100-200 million. The company is working on a complex deal where it is going to acquire a mid-size jewellery chain in the US apart from snapping standalone local jewellers in about 15 countries across North America, Europe, Asia and Australia.
According to sources, the US jewellery chain, with which Rajesh Exports is in talks, has about 80-100 stores spread across the country and the deal is expected to be valued at around $50-100 million. This would include its in-house jewellery brands. Rajesh Exports is looking to acquire a majority stake in this chain.
When contacted, Rajesh Exports chairman Rajesh Mehta declined to comment. However, sources informed ET that Mr Mehta is flying off to the US this week to deliberate on the transaction. This deal is expected to be closed within the next 4-6 weeks. The acquisition of the US-based chain by Rajesh Exports is part of a gameplan of becoming a large global retailer of jewellery.
Other countries where negotiations are currently on include the UK, Canada, France, Germany, Switzerland, Thailand, Malaysia, Australia, Singapore, the UAE, Kuwait, Oman and New Zealand. The company would acquire a handful of jewellery retail outlets in each of these countries spread across 35 cities totalling about 50-60 stores.
This strategy is similar to the company’s ongoing retail expansion in India where one of its retail brands — Shubh — is modelled on similar lines by bringing local jewellers in different cities under its umbrella. All the international retail outlets would be under its wholly-owned retailing subsidiary — 24K Retail.
Sources say that the acquisition will be financed through a mix of debt and equity. The company has already announced that it is planning to raise about $150 million from overseas investors, which will part-fund the acquisitions.
The acquisitions would make Rajesh Exports the first Indian retailer with a global spread of outlets. In terms of the number of stores, GHCL may still rank as the largest Indian retailer internationally. The company had last year acquired UK’s home textile retailer Rosebys which has more than 300 stores in the UK.
More info @ http://economictimes.indiatimes.com/News/News_By_Industry/Cons_Products/Fashion__CosmeticsJewellery/Rajesh_Exports_on_global_prowl/articleshow/1361876.cms
Buying Gold And Gemstone Jewelry: The Heart Of The Matter
FTC writes:
If you're planning a gift of gold or gemstone jewelry for your sweetheart, take some time to learn the terms used in the industry. Start with the basics. Carats and karats. What's the difference? Simply put, a carat is a unit of weight for gemstones, including diamonds; a karat is a unit for measuring the purity of gold.
Gold
The higher the karat rating, the higher the proportion of gold in the piece of jewelry. For example, 24 karat (24K) gold has more gold content than 14K gold. But because 24K gold is soft, it's usually mixed with other metals to increase its hardness and durability; 14K jewelry contains 14 parts of gold, mixed in throughout with 10 parts of base metal.
There's a big difference between karat-gold and gold-plated jewelry. Gold-plated describes jewelry with a layer of at least 10K gold bonded to a base metal. Gold plating eventually wears away, depending on how often the item is worn and how thick the plating is.
Gemstones
Gemstones can be naturally mined, laboratory-created or imitation. Stones created in a lab look identical to stones mined from the earth. The big difference is in the cost - laboratory-created stones are less expensive than naturally mined stones. But because they look just like stones mined from the earth, they must be identified as lab-created. Imitation stones resemble naturally mined stones but are not identical and are usually made of glass or plastic. Imitation stones must be identified as imitation. If you are purchasing a naturally mined stone, ask if it has been treated. Gemstone treatments - such as heating, dyeing or bleaching - can improve a stone's appearance or durability. Some treatments are permanent; some may create special care requirements. Treatments also may affect the stone's value.
Diamonds
When you're buying a diamond, consider four criteria, often referred to as "the 4C's" - cut, color, clarity and carat weight. Each factor affects the price. Cut not only refers to the shape of the diamond, but also to the size, angle, uniformity and polish of the facets. Color is sometimes "graded" on a scale. However, scales are not uniform: a "D" may be the best color for one scale, but not for another. Make sure you know how a particular scale and grade represents the color of the diamond you're considering. Clarity refers to the presence or absence of internal flaws, called inclusions that occur naturally within the stone, or to external blemishes, such as scratches or chips. A diamond can be described as "flawless" only if it has no visible surface cracks or other imperfections when viewed under 10-power magnification by a skilled diamond grader. Carat weight may be described in decimal or fractional parts of a carat. If the weight is given in decimal parts of a carat, the figure should be accurate to the last decimal place. For example, ".30 carat" could represent a diamond that weighs between .295 - .304 carat. Some retailers describe diamond weight in fractions and use the fraction to represent a range of weights. For example, a diamond described as ½ carat could weigh between .47 - .54 carat. If diamond weight is stated as fractional parts of a carat, the retailer should disclose two things: that the weight is not exact, and the reasonable range of weight for each fraction or the weight tolerance being used.
A Jewelry Shopper's Checklist
Once you're ready to buy jewelry, shop around. Compare quality, price and service. If you're not familiar with jewelers in your area, ask family members, friends and co-workers for recommendations. Also, when ordering online and you've never heard of the seller, check on its reputation with the Better Business Bureau or the state attorney general's office.
You also should:
- Ask for the store's refund and return policy before you buy. When ordering online, keep printouts of the web pages with details about the transaction, including refund and return policies in case you're not satisfied.
- Check for the appropriate markings on gold jewelry.
- Ask whether a gemstone is natural, laboratory-created, or imitation.
- Ask if the gemstone has been treated. Is the change permanent? Is special care required?
- Make sure the jeweler writes on the sales receipt any information you rely on when you make your purchase, such as the gemstone's weight or size. Some jewelers also may supply a grading report from a gemological laboratory.
The FTC works for the consumer to prevent fraudulent, deceptive and unfair business practices in the marketplace and to provide information to help consumers spot, stop, and avoid them. To file a complaint or to get free information on consumer issues, visit http://www.ftc.gov/ or call toll-free, 1-877-FTC-HELP (1-877-382-4357); TTY: 1-866-653-4261. The FTC enters Internet, telemarketing, identity theft, and other fraud-related complaints into Consumer Sentinel, a secure, online database available to hundreds of civil and criminal law enforcement agencies in the U.S. and abroad.
More info @ http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/conline/pubs/alerts/goldalrt.htm
If you're planning a gift of gold or gemstone jewelry for your sweetheart, take some time to learn the terms used in the industry. Start with the basics. Carats and karats. What's the difference? Simply put, a carat is a unit of weight for gemstones, including diamonds; a karat is a unit for measuring the purity of gold.
Gold
The higher the karat rating, the higher the proportion of gold in the piece of jewelry. For example, 24 karat (24K) gold has more gold content than 14K gold. But because 24K gold is soft, it's usually mixed with other metals to increase its hardness and durability; 14K jewelry contains 14 parts of gold, mixed in throughout with 10 parts of base metal.
There's a big difference between karat-gold and gold-plated jewelry. Gold-plated describes jewelry with a layer of at least 10K gold bonded to a base metal. Gold plating eventually wears away, depending on how often the item is worn and how thick the plating is.
Gemstones
Gemstones can be naturally mined, laboratory-created or imitation. Stones created in a lab look identical to stones mined from the earth. The big difference is in the cost - laboratory-created stones are less expensive than naturally mined stones. But because they look just like stones mined from the earth, they must be identified as lab-created. Imitation stones resemble naturally mined stones but are not identical and are usually made of glass or plastic. Imitation stones must be identified as imitation. If you are purchasing a naturally mined stone, ask if it has been treated. Gemstone treatments - such as heating, dyeing or bleaching - can improve a stone's appearance or durability. Some treatments are permanent; some may create special care requirements. Treatments also may affect the stone's value.
Diamonds
When you're buying a diamond, consider four criteria, often referred to as "the 4C's" - cut, color, clarity and carat weight. Each factor affects the price. Cut not only refers to the shape of the diamond, but also to the size, angle, uniformity and polish of the facets. Color is sometimes "graded" on a scale. However, scales are not uniform: a "D" may be the best color for one scale, but not for another. Make sure you know how a particular scale and grade represents the color of the diamond you're considering. Clarity refers to the presence or absence of internal flaws, called inclusions that occur naturally within the stone, or to external blemishes, such as scratches or chips. A diamond can be described as "flawless" only if it has no visible surface cracks or other imperfections when viewed under 10-power magnification by a skilled diamond grader. Carat weight may be described in decimal or fractional parts of a carat. If the weight is given in decimal parts of a carat, the figure should be accurate to the last decimal place. For example, ".30 carat" could represent a diamond that weighs between .295 - .304 carat. Some retailers describe diamond weight in fractions and use the fraction to represent a range of weights. For example, a diamond described as ½ carat could weigh between .47 - .54 carat. If diamond weight is stated as fractional parts of a carat, the retailer should disclose two things: that the weight is not exact, and the reasonable range of weight for each fraction or the weight tolerance being used.
A Jewelry Shopper's Checklist
Once you're ready to buy jewelry, shop around. Compare quality, price and service. If you're not familiar with jewelers in your area, ask family members, friends and co-workers for recommendations. Also, when ordering online and you've never heard of the seller, check on its reputation with the Better Business Bureau or the state attorney general's office.
You also should:
- Ask for the store's refund and return policy before you buy. When ordering online, keep printouts of the web pages with details about the transaction, including refund and return policies in case you're not satisfied.
- Check for the appropriate markings on gold jewelry.
- Ask whether a gemstone is natural, laboratory-created, or imitation.
- Ask if the gemstone has been treated. Is the change permanent? Is special care required?
- Make sure the jeweler writes on the sales receipt any information you rely on when you make your purchase, such as the gemstone's weight or size. Some jewelers also may supply a grading report from a gemological laboratory.
The FTC works for the consumer to prevent fraudulent, deceptive and unfair business practices in the marketplace and to provide information to help consumers spot, stop, and avoid them. To file a complaint or to get free information on consumer issues, visit http://www.ftc.gov/ or call toll-free, 1-877-FTC-HELP (1-877-382-4357); TTY: 1-866-653-4261. The FTC enters Internet, telemarketing, identity theft, and other fraud-related complaints into Consumer Sentinel, a secure, online database available to hundreds of civil and criminal law enforcement agencies in the U.S. and abroad.
More info @ http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/conline/pubs/alerts/goldalrt.htm
Gems Made By Man
Kurt Nassau
Gemological Institute of America
1980 ISBN 0-87311-016-1
Gemological Institute of America writes:
The compelling story of man’s efforts to duplicate nature’s finest gems is told with style and expertise by Kurt Nassau, a pioneer in laser technology with twenty years laboratory experience in crystal growth. He relates the failures and successes of scientists who worked to create perfection—not mere gem imitations, but synthetic gemstones with the same chemical composition, crystal structure and appearance as naturally occurring diamonds, rubies, sapphires, emeralds, opals, and other precious stones.
The science of crystal growth is discussed with such clarity that Nassau conveys the excitement of analyzing and reproducing gemstones. First hand technical information and supportive date are provided for the crystal grower and mineralogist. In addition, a number of questions vital to the serious gem collector and the jeweler are answered. What are the causes of color in natural and synthetic gemstones? How can you distinguish natural stones from the many varieties of synthetic counterparts that now exist? What makes a synthetic created by one technique worth more in the marketplace than one created by another method? Will the duplication of nature’s gem affect the future marketplace for natural stones?
About the author
Dr Kurt Nassau is one of the very few persons who could have written the standard reference on gem synthesis. Best known as a pioneer in laser technology, he has worked in the field of crystal growth and solid state chemistry since 1959 as a research scientist at the Bell Laboratories in Murray Hill, New Jersey. He has 14 patents and has written over 200 technical publications and many articles for the Lapidary Journal, the American Mineralogist, and Gems and Gemology.
Gemological Institute of America
1980 ISBN 0-87311-016-1
Gemological Institute of America writes:
The compelling story of man’s efforts to duplicate nature’s finest gems is told with style and expertise by Kurt Nassau, a pioneer in laser technology with twenty years laboratory experience in crystal growth. He relates the failures and successes of scientists who worked to create perfection—not mere gem imitations, but synthetic gemstones with the same chemical composition, crystal structure and appearance as naturally occurring diamonds, rubies, sapphires, emeralds, opals, and other precious stones.
The science of crystal growth is discussed with such clarity that Nassau conveys the excitement of analyzing and reproducing gemstones. First hand technical information and supportive date are provided for the crystal grower and mineralogist. In addition, a number of questions vital to the serious gem collector and the jeweler are answered. What are the causes of color in natural and synthetic gemstones? How can you distinguish natural stones from the many varieties of synthetic counterparts that now exist? What makes a synthetic created by one technique worth more in the marketplace than one created by another method? Will the duplication of nature’s gem affect the future marketplace for natural stones?
About the author
Dr Kurt Nassau is one of the very few persons who could have written the standard reference on gem synthesis. Best known as a pioneer in laser technology, he has worked in the field of crystal growth and solid state chemistry since 1959 as a research scientist at the Bell Laboratories in Murray Hill, New Jersey. He has 14 patents and has written over 200 technical publications and many articles for the Lapidary Journal, the American Mineralogist, and Gems and Gemology.
Zultanite
Zultanite is a variety of the mineral species diaspore. The stones are found in remote mountainous regions in Anatolia, Turkey. The stones are mined using traditional tools such as shovels, chisels, handpicks and carbide lamps.
The color varies in unique shades of yellowish green to purplish pink under different light sources. Sizes over 5 carats (top quality) are difficult to find. The color of Zultanite may look appealing in sizes above 3 carats. Smaller stones may look lighter in color. On the Moh's scale of hardness Zultanite is 6.5-7; specific gravity 3.40. Perfect cleavage indicates great care is required in cutting the stones. The stones are cut in oval, cushion, princess, round, concave, Portuguese round, trillions and other fancy cutting styles depending on the size, shape and quality of the rough material. The stones may also display Chatoyancy (cat’s eye) and Color Change.
Zultanites are known to be free from treatments, for now. The stone is relatively hard but may be damaged from careless handling. A little care and commonsense may add life to the stone by avoiding ultrasonic cleaner; instead clean with warm water, mild soap and soft brush. Sudden temperature changes or heat may damage the stone; store separately from other gemstones and jewelry. World's largest Zultanite "Sultan's Cushion" weighs 41.12 carats.
Name: After the 36 Sultans who founded the Ottoman Empire (today's Turkey) in Anatolia in the late 13th century.
The color varies in unique shades of yellowish green to purplish pink under different light sources. Sizes over 5 carats (top quality) are difficult to find. The color of Zultanite may look appealing in sizes above 3 carats. Smaller stones may look lighter in color. On the Moh's scale of hardness Zultanite is 6.5-7; specific gravity 3.40. Perfect cleavage indicates great care is required in cutting the stones. The stones are cut in oval, cushion, princess, round, concave, Portuguese round, trillions and other fancy cutting styles depending on the size, shape and quality of the rough material. The stones may also display Chatoyancy (cat’s eye) and Color Change.
Zultanites are known to be free from treatments, for now. The stone is relatively hard but may be damaged from careless handling. A little care and commonsense may add life to the stone by avoiding ultrasonic cleaner; instead clean with warm water, mild soap and soft brush. Sudden temperature changes or heat may damage the stone; store separately from other gemstones and jewelry. World's largest Zultanite "Sultan's Cushion" weighs 41.12 carats.
Name: After the 36 Sultans who founded the Ottoman Empire (today's Turkey) in Anatolia in the late 13th century.
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