Investing In Antique Jewellery

By Richard Falkiner
Barrie & Rockliff
The Cresset Press
1968

The Cresset Press writes:

Until comparatively recently, many pieces of antique jewellery could be bought for token prices. Sadly, this is no longer true today. As with so many other types of antiques, the price of jewellery has risen dramatically, above all over the past decade. The basic reason for this is, of course, that in an era when traditional forms of currency have proved so vulnerable to economic depressions, first class antiques, acquired with care and knowledge have shown themselves to be outstanding investments.

In spite of the recent rise in prices, there is still a large amount of antique jewellery available to the intelligent collector with even a modest budget. Much of this jewellery was virtually ignored for many years and has only recently begun to be appreciated. For instance, paste jewellery was long regarded as of value almost exclusively for the melt down prices commanded by its silver mounts. Today, a fine piece of past is recognized for what it is—an object of intrinsic decorative worth which, nonetheless, can be acquired for a fraction of the price fetched by a comparable object set with gems.

While there have been several works on antique jewellery (although most of them are now out of print), this book deals for the first time with the subject as an investment. Mr Falkiner’s approach is chronological, providing a chapter by chapter outline of the history of jewellery from the very earliest times, and illustrating each chapter with a wide range of photographs of over 200 objects. Many of the pieces illustrated have absorbing historical connotations: the Alfred jewel, lost by Alfred the Great at the end of the 9th century when he was a fugitive in Athelney Marsh and not found again until the 17th century; a jewel found in the baggage of the ill-fated Charles I after the battle of Naseby; the memorial rings of Beau Brummel and George Washington. The detailed captions to the pictures comment on prices fetched in the past and indicate possible trends for the future.

In addition, there is a substantial technological section in which Mr Falkiner traces the etymology of many of the terms used in jewellery, and explains in layman’s language the concepts of the refractive index, specific gravity, the cutting of stones, etc. With its 16 pages of magnificent color plates, this superbly produced volume, directed primarily at the investor-collector, will be a welcome addition to the New Currency Series.

Business Management

Warren Edward Buffett, CEO, Berkshire Hathaway writes:

'When a management with a reputation for brilliance tackles a business with a poor reputation for fundamental economics, it is the reputation of the business that stays intact.'

The Federal Trade Commission’s Guide for the Jewelry, Precious Metals and Pewter Industries

FTC writes:

23.0 Scope and application

(a) These guides apply to jewelry industry products, which include, but are not limited to, the following: gemstones and their laboratory-created and imitation substitutes; natural and cultured pearls and their imitations; and metallic watch bands not permanently attached to watches.1 These guides also apply to articles, including optical frames, pens and pencils, flatware, and hollowware, fabricated from precious metals (gold, silver and platinum group metals), precious metal alloys, and their imitations. These guides also apply to all articles made from pewter. For the purposes of these guides, all articles covered by these guides are defined as "industry products."

(b) These guides apply to persons, partnerships, or corporations, at every level of the trade (including but not limited to manufacturers, suppliers, and retailers) engaged in the business of offering for sale, selling, or distributing industry products.

Note to paragraph (b): To prevent consumer deception, persons, partnerships, or corporations in the business of appraising, identifying, or grading industry products should utilize the terminology and standards set forth in the guides.

(c) These guides apply to claims and representations about industry products included in labeling, advertising, promotional materials, and all other forms of marketing, whether asserted directly or by implication, through words, symbols, emblems, logos, illustrations, depictions, product brand names, or through any other means.

More info @ http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/guides/jewel-gd.htm

Q & A: Conflict Diamonds

Guardian Unlimited writes:

All you need to know about the industry's efforts to shake off the blood-soaked image of stones extracted from the world's war zones.

Where do conflict diamonds come from?
These are stones extracted from rebel-held areas or in defiance of security council resolutions, and used to pay for weapons. The end of several African civil wars has left Ivory Coast as the world's prime source of conflict diamonds. A recent UN report found that rough diamonds were being smuggled out of the rebel-held north and certified for the international market by dealers in Ghana and Mali. The UN experts said that up to US$23m-worth was being smuggled out annually in a trade controlled by the rebel New Forces. Campaigners say this shows there are still crucial gaps in the diamond certification scheme known as the Kimberley process. "These are conflict diamonds, and some of them have gone to Ghana where they're stamped as conflict-free," said Nick Dearden, campaigns manager of Amnesty International.

Congo is another troublespot. Last month, the World Diamond Council, the industry body, said it had received reports of conflict diamonds being smuggled from Congo via Zimbabwe to South Africa where they were certified as legitimate and exported. Zimbabwe's government denies the allegations. Although Liberia's civil war is over, its diamonds are still subject to UN sanctions.

What is the scale of the problem?
Conflict diamonds, chiefly from Congo, Angola and Sierra Leone, made up between 4% and 15% of the global trade when those countries' wars were at their height in the late 1990s. The industry says that fewer than 1% of diamonds on the market now are from war zones. Gemstone revenue has the potential to heal as well as hurt, the industry says, pointing out that Sierra Leone has now been at peace since 2002 and its diamond industry generates $140m in tax and export revenue. But critics say 1% of a $60bn global market is still too much.

A total of 69 countries have now signed up to the Kimberley process, which was meant to stop diamonds being used to fund conflict. Governments have to keep records tracking diamonds from source to their polished form. In theory, this prevents conflict diamonds from entering the supply chain.

Is it ethical to buy diamonds?
Despite bad publicity, a big rock remains synonymous with romance. Retail diamond sales totalled £1.2bn in the UK in 2005, according to industry figures, and sales are rising. One US jeweller has sought to bypass human rights concerns by selling only Canadian diamonds. But both the industry and campaigners say this could hurt some of the world's poorest people.

In countries such as Botswana and South Africa, diamond revenues have paid for schools, roads and clinics. Instead of boycotting diamonds altogether, consumers are being urged to ask retailers whether their diamonds are conflict-free. Alex Yearsley of Global Witness, whose campaigns focus on the corrupt exploitation of natural resources, said: "Consumers have the power to effect industry-wide changes simply by demanding that their diamonds are clean."

More info @
http://www.guardian.co.uk/international/story/0,,1996072,00.html

Gemstones with asterism (stars)

Epiasterism = use reflected light
Diasterism = use transmitted light

Most frequently seen star gemstones

- Almandine garnet (4 / 6 / 12 rays: epiasterism / diasterism)
- Beryl (6 rays: epiasterism)
- Corundum (6 / 12 rays: epiasterism)
- Diopside (4 rays (epiasterism)
- Enstatite (4 / 8 rays: epiasterism)
- Moonstone (4 rays: epiasterism)
- Quartz (4 / 6 / 12 or more: diasterism / epiasterism)

Synthetic and imitation star stones

- Corundum doublet / triplet (6 rays: epiasterism)
- Synthetic corundum (6 rays: epiasterism)
- Inscribed base star (any: epiasterism)
- Opal triplet star (6 rays: epiasterism)
- Mirror-backed quartz (4 / 6 / 12 or more: epiasterism)
- Synthetic rutile (4 ray: epiasterism)

Emerald and Other Beryls

By John Sinkankas
Chilton Book Company, Radnor, Pennsylvania, USA
1981 ISBN 0-8019-7114-4

Chilton Book Company writes:

This consummate portrait of Emerald and Other Beryls is a permanent reference for jewelers, gemological historians, mineralogists, geologists, and mineral collectors. John Sinkankas, a widely respected authority on the earth sciences, here provides a scholarly yet eminently readable monograph on every facet of beryl: cultural and natural history; structure and composition; lapidary and synthesis; and world occurrences, including gems, collector’s specimens, and the ore of the rare metal beryllium.

Beginning with Egypt 5500 years ago, the author traces the story of the dazzling emerald—from the fabled Table of Solomon to Queen Elizabeth II’s Coronation jewels—and its less renowned relatives, the pink morganite, the golden beryl and the blue aquamarine. The role of beryl in ornament, magic and medicine is a fascinating tale interwoven with history’s most compelling people and events. Together with a unique nomenclature appendix of synonyms in all languages for beryl and its varieties, this cultural archive is of special interest to historians, archeologists, linguists and students of curios lore.

In the second part, Sinkankas explores the natural history of emerald and beryl and the advances in mineralogical knowledge from antiquity, through the Christian Era, the Middle Ages, and into the highly technological modern era of exotic used for a mineral that was once considered suitable only for ornamentation. The author culled and synthesized the extensive literature of every language to bring to one volume all the significant material on crystal structure, chemical composition, physical and optical properties, and causes of color. A chapter is also devoted to cutting emerald and other beryls into jewelry stones.

Unmatched anywhere in the literature, the third part is an encyclopedic guide to major beryl deposits, with special notes on sources of fine crystal specimens and gem materials. Sinkankas has compressed a colossal amount of information into a readily accessible reference for mineralogists, geologists, mineral collectors, and gem cutters. Superbly rendered maps by the author augment the locality data.

In addition to photographs in color and black and white, the text is enhanced by line drawings and a series of unique watercolor paintings of actual crystal specimens done expressly for this book by the author.

About the Author
John Sinkankas has published eleven books on mineralogy, gemology, prospecting, and lapidary art, among them the critically acclaimed Gemstones of North America in two volumes and the popular Mineralogy for Amateurs. He has written more than 100 articles for popular and scientific journals, contributing regularly to Gems and Gemology, Journal of Gemmology, Rocks and Minerals, Gems and Minerals, Lapidary Journal and American Mineralogist.

Patience and Discipline

Forbes writes:

Mary Buffett spoke to Forbes.com about patience, discipline and Warren Buffett's pleasure dome.

Forbes.com: What's the most important lesson you've learned from Warren Buffett?
Mary Buffett: Patience and discipline. And doing something you love. So many people -- and Warren has said this -- are doing it for the money. That's really not the right reason. If you're doing something you love, you're more likely to put your all into it, and that generally equates to making money. He always says when he gets up in the morning he goes to his pleasure dome, which is his office.

Precious Stones

By Dr Max Bauer
Translated from the German by L.J.Spencer
Charles E Tuttle Company
1969 ISBN 8048-0489-3

Charles E Tuttle Company writes:

A popular account of their characters, occurrence, and application, with an introduction to their determination for mineralogists, lapidaries, and jewelers with an appendix on pearls and coral from the original edition and up-to-date material on synthetic gems and the cultured pearl.

Originally published in 1896 in Germany, Precious Stones was translated and brought up to date in 1903 prior to its publication in England. It is without doubt one of the most comprehensive studies of gems ever published.

Long out of print, Precious Stones appeared high on the list of a response made by antiquarian book dealers who were asked which books they would most like to see reprinted. Although the technology applicable to gems has made enormous strides in this century, the basic information contained in Precious Stones remain valid.

Part One is devoted to a consideration of the mineral characteristics which are of importance to the specialist in gems; a general consideration of the type of occurrence of precious stones; and material relating to the application and working of these stones.

Part Two contains a detailed account of every mineral which has been used for ornamental purposes, with special reference to precious stones.

Part Three epitomizes the characters to be relied on in determining precious stones and distinguishing them from other precious stones and from imitations.

Up-to-date information on synthetic gems and the cultured pearl is included in the appendices to the new edition.

Precious Stones deserves a place in the reference library of all professional people who are concerned with gems and mineralogy.