(Via Times News Network) Vivek Sinha writes:
In what would mark the first big-ticket global acquisition in the retail space, jewellery manufacturer Rajesh Exports is in an advanced stage of negotiations to acquire a string of jewellery retail stores abroad for $100-200 million. The company is working on a complex deal where it is going to acquire a mid-size jewellery chain in the US apart from snapping standalone local jewellers in about 15 countries across North America, Europe, Asia and Australia.
According to sources, the US jewellery chain, with which Rajesh Exports is in talks, has about 80-100 stores spread across the country and the deal is expected to be valued at around $50-100 million. This would include its in-house jewellery brands. Rajesh Exports is looking to acquire a majority stake in this chain.
When contacted, Rajesh Exports chairman Rajesh Mehta declined to comment. However, sources informed ET that Mr Mehta is flying off to the US this week to deliberate on the transaction. This deal is expected to be closed within the next 4-6 weeks. The acquisition of the US-based chain by Rajesh Exports is part of a gameplan of becoming a large global retailer of jewellery.
Other countries where negotiations are currently on include the UK, Canada, France, Germany, Switzerland, Thailand, Malaysia, Australia, Singapore, the UAE, Kuwait, Oman and New Zealand. The company would acquire a handful of jewellery retail outlets in each of these countries spread across 35 cities totalling about 50-60 stores.
This strategy is similar to the company’s ongoing retail expansion in India where one of its retail brands — Shubh — is modelled on similar lines by bringing local jewellers in different cities under its umbrella. All the international retail outlets would be under its wholly-owned retailing subsidiary — 24K Retail.
Sources say that the acquisition will be financed through a mix of debt and equity. The company has already announced that it is planning to raise about $150 million from overseas investors, which will part-fund the acquisitions.
The acquisitions would make Rajesh Exports the first Indian retailer with a global spread of outlets. In terms of the number of stores, GHCL may still rank as the largest Indian retailer internationally. The company had last year acquired UK’s home textile retailer Rosebys which has more than 300 stores in the UK.
More info @ http://economictimes.indiatimes.com/News/News_By_Industry/Cons_Products/Fashion__CosmeticsJewellery/Rajesh_Exports_on_global_prowl/articleshow/1361876.cms
Monday, January 29, 2007
Buying Gold And Gemstone Jewelry: The Heart Of The Matter
FTC writes:
If you're planning a gift of gold or gemstone jewelry for your sweetheart, take some time to learn the terms used in the industry. Start with the basics. Carats and karats. What's the difference? Simply put, a carat is a unit of weight for gemstones, including diamonds; a karat is a unit for measuring the purity of gold.
Gold
The higher the karat rating, the higher the proportion of gold in the piece of jewelry. For example, 24 karat (24K) gold has more gold content than 14K gold. But because 24K gold is soft, it's usually mixed with other metals to increase its hardness and durability; 14K jewelry contains 14 parts of gold, mixed in throughout with 10 parts of base metal.
There's a big difference between karat-gold and gold-plated jewelry. Gold-plated describes jewelry with a layer of at least 10K gold bonded to a base metal. Gold plating eventually wears away, depending on how often the item is worn and how thick the plating is.
Gemstones
Gemstones can be naturally mined, laboratory-created or imitation. Stones created in a lab look identical to stones mined from the earth. The big difference is in the cost - laboratory-created stones are less expensive than naturally mined stones. But because they look just like stones mined from the earth, they must be identified as lab-created. Imitation stones resemble naturally mined stones but are not identical and are usually made of glass or plastic. Imitation stones must be identified as imitation. If you are purchasing a naturally mined stone, ask if it has been treated. Gemstone treatments - such as heating, dyeing or bleaching - can improve a stone's appearance or durability. Some treatments are permanent; some may create special care requirements. Treatments also may affect the stone's value.
Diamonds
When you're buying a diamond, consider four criteria, often referred to as "the 4C's" - cut, color, clarity and carat weight. Each factor affects the price. Cut not only refers to the shape of the diamond, but also to the size, angle, uniformity and polish of the facets. Color is sometimes "graded" on a scale. However, scales are not uniform: a "D" may be the best color for one scale, but not for another. Make sure you know how a particular scale and grade represents the color of the diamond you're considering. Clarity refers to the presence or absence of internal flaws, called inclusions that occur naturally within the stone, or to external blemishes, such as scratches or chips. A diamond can be described as "flawless" only if it has no visible surface cracks or other imperfections when viewed under 10-power magnification by a skilled diamond grader. Carat weight may be described in decimal or fractional parts of a carat. If the weight is given in decimal parts of a carat, the figure should be accurate to the last decimal place. For example, ".30 carat" could represent a diamond that weighs between .295 - .304 carat. Some retailers describe diamond weight in fractions and use the fraction to represent a range of weights. For example, a diamond described as ½ carat could weigh between .47 - .54 carat. If diamond weight is stated as fractional parts of a carat, the retailer should disclose two things: that the weight is not exact, and the reasonable range of weight for each fraction or the weight tolerance being used.
A Jewelry Shopper's Checklist
Once you're ready to buy jewelry, shop around. Compare quality, price and service. If you're not familiar with jewelers in your area, ask family members, friends and co-workers for recommendations. Also, when ordering online and you've never heard of the seller, check on its reputation with the Better Business Bureau or the state attorney general's office.
You also should:
- Ask for the store's refund and return policy before you buy. When ordering online, keep printouts of the web pages with details about the transaction, including refund and return policies in case you're not satisfied.
- Check for the appropriate markings on gold jewelry.
- Ask whether a gemstone is natural, laboratory-created, or imitation.
- Ask if the gemstone has been treated. Is the change permanent? Is special care required?
- Make sure the jeweler writes on the sales receipt any information you rely on when you make your purchase, such as the gemstone's weight or size. Some jewelers also may supply a grading report from a gemological laboratory.
The FTC works for the consumer to prevent fraudulent, deceptive and unfair business practices in the marketplace and to provide information to help consumers spot, stop, and avoid them. To file a complaint or to get free information on consumer issues, visit http://www.ftc.gov/ or call toll-free, 1-877-FTC-HELP (1-877-382-4357); TTY: 1-866-653-4261. The FTC enters Internet, telemarketing, identity theft, and other fraud-related complaints into Consumer Sentinel, a secure, online database available to hundreds of civil and criminal law enforcement agencies in the U.S. and abroad.
More info @ http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/conline/pubs/alerts/goldalrt.htm
If you're planning a gift of gold or gemstone jewelry for your sweetheart, take some time to learn the terms used in the industry. Start with the basics. Carats and karats. What's the difference? Simply put, a carat is a unit of weight for gemstones, including diamonds; a karat is a unit for measuring the purity of gold.
Gold
The higher the karat rating, the higher the proportion of gold in the piece of jewelry. For example, 24 karat (24K) gold has more gold content than 14K gold. But because 24K gold is soft, it's usually mixed with other metals to increase its hardness and durability; 14K jewelry contains 14 parts of gold, mixed in throughout with 10 parts of base metal.
There's a big difference between karat-gold and gold-plated jewelry. Gold-plated describes jewelry with a layer of at least 10K gold bonded to a base metal. Gold plating eventually wears away, depending on how often the item is worn and how thick the plating is.
Gemstones
Gemstones can be naturally mined, laboratory-created or imitation. Stones created in a lab look identical to stones mined from the earth. The big difference is in the cost - laboratory-created stones are less expensive than naturally mined stones. But because they look just like stones mined from the earth, they must be identified as lab-created. Imitation stones resemble naturally mined stones but are not identical and are usually made of glass or plastic. Imitation stones must be identified as imitation. If you are purchasing a naturally mined stone, ask if it has been treated. Gemstone treatments - such as heating, dyeing or bleaching - can improve a stone's appearance or durability. Some treatments are permanent; some may create special care requirements. Treatments also may affect the stone's value.
Diamonds
When you're buying a diamond, consider four criteria, often referred to as "the 4C's" - cut, color, clarity and carat weight. Each factor affects the price. Cut not only refers to the shape of the diamond, but also to the size, angle, uniformity and polish of the facets. Color is sometimes "graded" on a scale. However, scales are not uniform: a "D" may be the best color for one scale, but not for another. Make sure you know how a particular scale and grade represents the color of the diamond you're considering. Clarity refers to the presence or absence of internal flaws, called inclusions that occur naturally within the stone, or to external blemishes, such as scratches or chips. A diamond can be described as "flawless" only if it has no visible surface cracks or other imperfections when viewed under 10-power magnification by a skilled diamond grader. Carat weight may be described in decimal or fractional parts of a carat. If the weight is given in decimal parts of a carat, the figure should be accurate to the last decimal place. For example, ".30 carat" could represent a diamond that weighs between .295 - .304 carat. Some retailers describe diamond weight in fractions and use the fraction to represent a range of weights. For example, a diamond described as ½ carat could weigh between .47 - .54 carat. If diamond weight is stated as fractional parts of a carat, the retailer should disclose two things: that the weight is not exact, and the reasonable range of weight for each fraction or the weight tolerance being used.
A Jewelry Shopper's Checklist
Once you're ready to buy jewelry, shop around. Compare quality, price and service. If you're not familiar with jewelers in your area, ask family members, friends and co-workers for recommendations. Also, when ordering online and you've never heard of the seller, check on its reputation with the Better Business Bureau or the state attorney general's office.
You also should:
- Ask for the store's refund and return policy before you buy. When ordering online, keep printouts of the web pages with details about the transaction, including refund and return policies in case you're not satisfied.
- Check for the appropriate markings on gold jewelry.
- Ask whether a gemstone is natural, laboratory-created, or imitation.
- Ask if the gemstone has been treated. Is the change permanent? Is special care required?
- Make sure the jeweler writes on the sales receipt any information you rely on when you make your purchase, such as the gemstone's weight or size. Some jewelers also may supply a grading report from a gemological laboratory.
The FTC works for the consumer to prevent fraudulent, deceptive and unfair business practices in the marketplace and to provide information to help consumers spot, stop, and avoid them. To file a complaint or to get free information on consumer issues, visit http://www.ftc.gov/ or call toll-free, 1-877-FTC-HELP (1-877-382-4357); TTY: 1-866-653-4261. The FTC enters Internet, telemarketing, identity theft, and other fraud-related complaints into Consumer Sentinel, a secure, online database available to hundreds of civil and criminal law enforcement agencies in the U.S. and abroad.
More info @ http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/conline/pubs/alerts/goldalrt.htm
Gems Made By Man
Kurt Nassau
Gemological Institute of America
1980 ISBN 0-87311-016-1
Gemological Institute of America writes:
The compelling story of man’s efforts to duplicate nature’s finest gems is told with style and expertise by Kurt Nassau, a pioneer in laser technology with twenty years laboratory experience in crystal growth. He relates the failures and successes of scientists who worked to create perfection—not mere gem imitations, but synthetic gemstones with the same chemical composition, crystal structure and appearance as naturally occurring diamonds, rubies, sapphires, emeralds, opals, and other precious stones.
The science of crystal growth is discussed with such clarity that Nassau conveys the excitement of analyzing and reproducing gemstones. First hand technical information and supportive date are provided for the crystal grower and mineralogist. In addition, a number of questions vital to the serious gem collector and the jeweler are answered. What are the causes of color in natural and synthetic gemstones? How can you distinguish natural stones from the many varieties of synthetic counterparts that now exist? What makes a synthetic created by one technique worth more in the marketplace than one created by another method? Will the duplication of nature’s gem affect the future marketplace for natural stones?
About the author
Dr Kurt Nassau is one of the very few persons who could have written the standard reference on gem synthesis. Best known as a pioneer in laser technology, he has worked in the field of crystal growth and solid state chemistry since 1959 as a research scientist at the Bell Laboratories in Murray Hill, New Jersey. He has 14 patents and has written over 200 technical publications and many articles for the Lapidary Journal, the American Mineralogist, and Gems and Gemology.
Gemological Institute of America
1980 ISBN 0-87311-016-1
Gemological Institute of America writes:
The compelling story of man’s efforts to duplicate nature’s finest gems is told with style and expertise by Kurt Nassau, a pioneer in laser technology with twenty years laboratory experience in crystal growth. He relates the failures and successes of scientists who worked to create perfection—not mere gem imitations, but synthetic gemstones with the same chemical composition, crystal structure and appearance as naturally occurring diamonds, rubies, sapphires, emeralds, opals, and other precious stones.
The science of crystal growth is discussed with such clarity that Nassau conveys the excitement of analyzing and reproducing gemstones. First hand technical information and supportive date are provided for the crystal grower and mineralogist. In addition, a number of questions vital to the serious gem collector and the jeweler are answered. What are the causes of color in natural and synthetic gemstones? How can you distinguish natural stones from the many varieties of synthetic counterparts that now exist? What makes a synthetic created by one technique worth more in the marketplace than one created by another method? Will the duplication of nature’s gem affect the future marketplace for natural stones?
About the author
Dr Kurt Nassau is one of the very few persons who could have written the standard reference on gem synthesis. Best known as a pioneer in laser technology, he has worked in the field of crystal growth and solid state chemistry since 1959 as a research scientist at the Bell Laboratories in Murray Hill, New Jersey. He has 14 patents and has written over 200 technical publications and many articles for the Lapidary Journal, the American Mineralogist, and Gems and Gemology.
Zultanite
Zultanite is a variety of the mineral species diaspore. The stones are found in remote mountainous regions in Anatolia, Turkey. The stones are mined using traditional tools such as shovels, chisels, handpicks and carbide lamps.
The color varies in unique shades of yellowish green to purplish pink under different light sources. Sizes over 5 carats (top quality) are difficult to find. The color of Zultanite may look appealing in sizes above 3 carats. Smaller stones may look lighter in color. On the Moh's scale of hardness Zultanite is 6.5-7; specific gravity 3.40. Perfect cleavage indicates great care is required in cutting the stones. The stones are cut in oval, cushion, princess, round, concave, Portuguese round, trillions and other fancy cutting styles depending on the size, shape and quality of the rough material. The stones may also display Chatoyancy (cat’s eye) and Color Change.
Zultanites are known to be free from treatments, for now. The stone is relatively hard but may be damaged from careless handling. A little care and commonsense may add life to the stone by avoiding ultrasonic cleaner; instead clean with warm water, mild soap and soft brush. Sudden temperature changes or heat may damage the stone; store separately from other gemstones and jewelry. World's largest Zultanite "Sultan's Cushion" weighs 41.12 carats.
Name: After the 36 Sultans who founded the Ottoman Empire (today's Turkey) in Anatolia in the late 13th century.
The color varies in unique shades of yellowish green to purplish pink under different light sources. Sizes over 5 carats (top quality) are difficult to find. The color of Zultanite may look appealing in sizes above 3 carats. Smaller stones may look lighter in color. On the Moh's scale of hardness Zultanite is 6.5-7; specific gravity 3.40. Perfect cleavage indicates great care is required in cutting the stones. The stones are cut in oval, cushion, princess, round, concave, Portuguese round, trillions and other fancy cutting styles depending on the size, shape and quality of the rough material. The stones may also display Chatoyancy (cat’s eye) and Color Change.
Zultanites are known to be free from treatments, for now. The stone is relatively hard but may be damaged from careless handling. A little care and commonsense may add life to the stone by avoiding ultrasonic cleaner; instead clean with warm water, mild soap and soft brush. Sudden temperature changes or heat may damage the stone; store separately from other gemstones and jewelry. World's largest Zultanite "Sultan's Cushion" weighs 41.12 carats.
Name: After the 36 Sultans who founded the Ottoman Empire (today's Turkey) in Anatolia in the late 13th century.
About Modern Education
Charles T Munger, Vice-Chairman of Berkshire Hathaway Corporation writes:
The theory of modern education is that you need a general education before you specialize. And I think to some extent, before you're going to be a great stock picker, you need some general education. So, emphasizing what I sometimes waggishly call remedial worldly wisdom, I'm going to start by waltzing you through a few basic notions.
What is elementary, worldly wisdom?
Well, the first rule is that you can't really know anything if you just remember isolated facts and try and bang 'em back. If the facts don't hang together on a latticework of theory, you don't have them in a usable form.You've got to have models in your head. And you've got to array your experience both vicarious and direct on this latticework of models. You may have noticed students who just try to remember and pound back what is remembered. Well, they fail in school and in life. You've got to hang experience on a latticework of models in your head.
What are the models?
Well, the first rule is that you've got to have multiple models because if you just have one or two that you're using, the nature of human psychology is such that you'll torture reality so that it fits your models, or at least you'll think it does. You become the equivalent of a chiropractor who, of course, is the great boob in medicine.
It's like the old saying, "To the man with only a hammer, every problem looks like a nail." And of course, that's the way the chiropractor goes about practicing medicine. But that's a perfectly disastrous way to think and a perfectly disastrous way to operate in the world. So you've got to have multiple models.
And the models have to come from multiple disciplines because all the wisdom of the world is not to be found in one little academic department. That's why poetry professors, by and large, are so unwise in a worldly sense. They don't have enough models in their heads. So you've got to have models across a fair array of disciplines.
You may say, "My God, this is already getting way too tough. "But, fortunately, it isn't that tough because 80 or 90 important models will carry about 90% of the freight in making you a worldly wise person. And, of those, only a mere handful really carry very heavy freight.
The theory of modern education is that you need a general education before you specialize. And I think to some extent, before you're going to be a great stock picker, you need some general education. So, emphasizing what I sometimes waggishly call remedial worldly wisdom, I'm going to start by waltzing you through a few basic notions.
What is elementary, worldly wisdom?
Well, the first rule is that you can't really know anything if you just remember isolated facts and try and bang 'em back. If the facts don't hang together on a latticework of theory, you don't have them in a usable form.You've got to have models in your head. And you've got to array your experience both vicarious and direct on this latticework of models. You may have noticed students who just try to remember and pound back what is remembered. Well, they fail in school and in life. You've got to hang experience on a latticework of models in your head.
What are the models?
Well, the first rule is that you've got to have multiple models because if you just have one or two that you're using, the nature of human psychology is such that you'll torture reality so that it fits your models, or at least you'll think it does. You become the equivalent of a chiropractor who, of course, is the great boob in medicine.
It's like the old saying, "To the man with only a hammer, every problem looks like a nail." And of course, that's the way the chiropractor goes about practicing medicine. But that's a perfectly disastrous way to think and a perfectly disastrous way to operate in the world. So you've got to have multiple models.
And the models have to come from multiple disciplines because all the wisdom of the world is not to be found in one little academic department. That's why poetry professors, by and large, are so unwise in a worldly sense. They don't have enough models in their heads. So you've got to have models across a fair array of disciplines.
You may say, "My God, this is already getting way too tough. "But, fortunately, it isn't that tough because 80 or 90 important models will carry about 90% of the freight in making you a worldly wise person. And, of those, only a mere handful really carry very heavy freight.
All That Glitters... How To Buy Jewelry
FTC writes:
Buying jewelry can be fun, exciting and confusing. Whether you're considering a gift of jewelry for someone special or as a treat for yourself, take some time to learn the terms used in the industry.
Here's some information to help you get the best quality jewelry for your money, whether you're shopping in a traditional brick and mortar store by catalog or online.
Gold
The word gold, used by itself, means all gold or 24 karat (24K) gold. Because 24K gold is soft, it's usually mixed with other metals to increase its hardness and durability. If a piece of jewelry is not 24 karat gold, the karat quality should accompany any claim that the item is gold.
The karat quality marking tells you what proportion of gold is mixed with the other metals. Fourteen karat (14K) jewelry contains 14 parts of gold, mixed in throughout with 10 parts of base metal. The higher the karat rating, the higher the proportion of gold in the piece of jewelry.
Most jewelry is marked with its karat quality, although marking is not required by law. Near the karat quality mark, you should see the name or the U.S. registered trademark of the company that will stand behind the mark. The trademark may be in the form of a name, symbol or initials. If you don't see a trademark accompanying a quality mark on a piece of jewelry, look for another piece.
Solid gold refers to an item made of any karat gold, if the inside of the item is not hollow. The proportion of gold in the piece of jewelry still is determined by the karat mark.
Jewelry can be plated with gold in a variety of ways. Gold plate refers to items that are either mechanically plated, electroplated, or plated by any other means with gold to a base metal. Eventually, gold plating wears away, but how soon will depend on how often the item is worn and how thick the plating is.
Gold-filled, gold overlay and rolled gold plate are terms used to describe jewelry that has a layer of at least 10 karat gold mechanically bonded to a base metal. If the jewelry is marked with one of these terms, the term or abbreviation should follow the karat quality of the gold used (for example, 14K Gold Overlay or 12K RGP). If the layer of karat gold is less than 1/20th of the total weight of the item, any marking must state the actual percentage of karat gold, such as 1/40 14K Gold Overlay.
Gold electroplate describes jewelry that has a layer (at least .175 microns thick) of a minimum of 10 karat gold deposited on a base metal by an electrolytic process. The terms gold flashed or gold washed describe products that have an extremely thin electroplating of gold (less than .175 microns thick). This will wear away more quickly than gold plate, gold-filled or gold electroplate.
Platinum, Silver and Other Metals
Platinum is a precious metal that costs more than gold. It usually is mixed with other similar metals, known as the platinum group metals: iridium, palladium, ruthenium, rhodium and osmium.
Different markings are used on platinum jewelry as compared with gold jewelry, based on the amount of pure platinum in the piece. The quality markings for platinum are based on parts per thousand. For example, the marking 900 Platinum means that 900 parts out of 1000 are pure platinum, or in other words, the item is 90% platinum and 10% other metals. The abbreviations for platinum - Plat. or Pt. - also can be used in marking jewelry.
Items that contain at least 950 parts per thousand pure platinum can be marked simply platinum. Items that have at least 850 parts per thousand pure platinum can be marked with the amount of pure platinum and the word platinum or an abbreviation (for example, 950 platinum, 900 Plat. or 850 Pt.). Jewelry that contains less than 850 parts per thousand pure platinum, but has a total of 950 parts per thousand of platinum group metals (of which at least 500 parts is pure platinum), may be marked with both the amount of pure platinum and the amount of the other platinum group metals in the piece. For example, the marking 600 Plat. 350 Irid. means that the item has 600 parts per thousand (60%) platinum, and 350 parts per thousand (35%) iridium, totaling 950 parts per thousand of platinum group metals, and 50 parts per thousand (5%) other metals.
The words silver or sterling silver describe a product that contains 92.5% silver. Silver products sometimes may be marked 925 which means that 925 parts per thousand are pure silver. Some jewelry may be described as silverplate: a layer of silver is bonded to a base metal. The mark coin silver is used for compounds that contain 90% silver. According to the law, quality-marked silver also must bear the name or a U.S. registered trademark of the company or person that will stand behind the mark.
Vermeil (ver-may), a special type of gold plated product, consists of a base of sterling silver that is coated or plated with gold.
Pewter items may be described and marked as such if they contain at least 90% tin.
Gemstones
Natural gemstones are found in nature. Laboratory-created stones, as the name implies, are made in a laboratory. These stones, which also are referred to as laboratory-grown, [name of manufacturer]-created, or synthetic, have essentially the same chemical, physical and visual properties as natural gemstones.
Laboratory- created stones do not have the rarity of naturally colored stones and they are less expensive than naturally mined stones. By contrast, imitation stones look like natural stones in appearance only, and may be glass, plastic, or less costly stones. Laboratory-created and imitation stones should be clearly identified as such.
Gemstones may be measured by weight, size, or both. The basic unit for weighing gemstones is the carat, which is equal to one-fifth (1/5th) of a gram. Carats are divided into 100 units, called points. For example, a half-carat gemstone would weigh .50 carats or 50 points. When gemstones are measured by dimensions, the size is expressed in millimeters (for example, 7x5 millimeters).
Gemstone treatments or enhancements refer to the way some gems are treated to improve their appearance or durability, or even change their color. Many gemstones are treated in some way. The effects of some treatments may lessen or change over time and some treated stones may require special care. Some enhancements also affect the value of a stone, when measured against a comparable untreated stone.
Jewelers should tell you whether the gemstone you're considering has been treated when: the treatment is not permanent; the treated stone requires special care; or the treatment significantly affects the value of the gemstone.
Some common treatments that you may be told about and their effects include:
- Heating can lighten, darken or change the color of some gems, or improve a gemstone's clarity.
- Irradiation can add more color to colored diamonds, certain other gemstones and pearls.
- Impregnating some gems with colorless oils, wax or resins makes a variety of imperfections less visible and can improve the gemstones' clarity and appearance.
- Fracture filling hides cracks or fractures in gems by injecting colorless plastic or glass into the cracks and improves the gemstones' appearance and durability.
- Diffusion treatment adds color to the surface of colorless gems; the center of the stone remains colorless.
- Dyeing adds color and improves color uniformity in some gemstones and pearls.
- Bleaching lightens and whitens some gems, including jade and pearls.
Diamonds
A diamond's value is based on four criteria: color, cut, clarity, and carat. The clarity and color of a diamond usually are graded. However, scales are not uniform: a clarity grade of "slightly included" may represent a different grade on one grading system versus another, depending on the terms used in the scale. Make sure you know how a particular scale and grade represent the color or clarity of the diamond you're considering. A diamond can be described as "flawless" only if it has no visible surface or internal imperfections when viewed under 10-power magnification by a skilled diamond grader.
As with other gems, diamond weight usually is stated in carats. Diamond weight may be described in decimal or fractional parts of a carat. If the weight is given in decimal parts of a carat, the figure should be accurate to the last decimal place. For example, ".30 carat" could represent a diamond that weighs between .295 - .304 carat. Some retailers describe diamond weight in fractions and use the fraction to represent a range of weights. For example, a diamond described as 1/2 carat could weigh between .47 - .54 carat. If diamond weight is stated as fractional parts of a carat, the retailer should disclose two things: that the weight is not exact, and the reasonable range of weight for each fraction or the weight tolerance being used.
Some diamonds may be treated to improve their appearance in similar ways as other gemstones. Since these treatments improve the clarity of the diamond, some jewelers refer to them as clarity enhancement. One type of treatment - fracture filling - conceals cracks in diamonds by filling them with a foreign substance. This filling may not be permanent and jewelers should tell you if the diamond you're considering has been fracture-filled.
Another treatment - lasering - involves the use of a laser beam to improve the appearance of diamonds that have black inclusions or spots. A laser beam is aimed at the inclusion. Acid is then forced through a tiny tunnel made by the laser beam to remove the inclusion. Lasering is permanent and a laser-drilled stone does not require special care.
While a laser-drilled diamond may appear as beautiful as a comparable untreated stone, it may not be as valuable. That's because an untreated stone of the same quality is rarer and therefore more valuable. Jewelers should tell you whether the diamond you're considering has been laser-drilled.
Imitation diamonds, such as cubic zirconia, resemble diamonds in appearance but are much less costly. Certain laboratory-created gemstones, such as lab-created moissanite, also resemble diamonds and may not be adequately detected by the instruments originally used to identify cubic zirconia. Ask your jeweler if he has the current testing equipment to distinguish between diamonds and other lab-created stones.
Pearls
Natural or real pearls are made by oysters and other mollusks. Cultured pearls also are grown by mollusks, but with human intervention; that is, an irritant introduced into the shells causes a pearl to grow. Imitation pearls are man-made with glass, plastic, or organic materials.
Because natural pearls are very rare, most pearls used in jewelry are either cultured or imitation pearls. Cultured pearls, because they are made by oysters or mollusks, usually are more expensive than imitation pearls. A cultured pearl's value is largely based on its size, usually stated in millimeters, and the quality of its nacre coating, which gives it luster. Jewelers should tell you if the pearls are cultured or imitation.
Some black, bronze, gold, purple, blue and orange pearls, whether natural or cultured, occur that way in nature; some, however, are dyed through various processes. Jewelers should tell you whether the colored pearls are naturally colored, dyed or irradiated.
A Jewelry Shopper’s Checklist
When you're in the market for a piece of jewelry for yourself or someone you love, shop around. Compare quality, price, and service. If you're not familiar with any jewelers in your area, ask family members, friends, and co-workers for recommendations.
You also should:
- Ask for the store's refund and return policy before you buy.
- Check for the appropriate markings on metal jewelry.
- Ask whether the pearls are natural, cultured, or imitation.
- Ask whether a gemstone is natural, laboratory-created, or imitation.
- Ask whether the gemstone has been treated. Is the change permanent? Is special care required?
- Make sure the jeweler writes on the sales receipt any information you relied on when making your purchase, such as the gem's weight or size. Some jewelers also may supply a grading report from a gemological laboratory.
In addition, these tips apply when you're shopping for jewelry online:
- Shop with companies you know or do some homework before buying to make sure a company is legitimate before doing business with it.
- Get the details about the product, as well as the merchant's refund and return policies, before you buy.
- Look for an address to write to or a phone number to call if you have a question, a problem or need help.
For More Information
If you have a problem with the jewelry you purchased, first try to resolve it with the jeweler. If you are dissatisfied with the response, contact your local Better Business Bureau or local consumer protection agency. You also may contact the Jewelers Vigilance Committee's Alternative Dispute Resolution Service. This program assists consumers and businesses in resolving disputes about jewelry. The Jewelers Vigilance Committee (JVC) is an independent, non-profit organization formed to advance ethical practices in the jewelry industry. You may contact the JVC by mail: 25 West 45th Street, Suite 400, New York, NY 10036-4902, or by phone: 212-997-2002.
More info @ http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/conline/pubs/products/jewelry.htm
Buying jewelry can be fun, exciting and confusing. Whether you're considering a gift of jewelry for someone special or as a treat for yourself, take some time to learn the terms used in the industry.
Here's some information to help you get the best quality jewelry for your money, whether you're shopping in a traditional brick and mortar store by catalog or online.
Gold
The word gold, used by itself, means all gold or 24 karat (24K) gold. Because 24K gold is soft, it's usually mixed with other metals to increase its hardness and durability. If a piece of jewelry is not 24 karat gold, the karat quality should accompany any claim that the item is gold.
The karat quality marking tells you what proportion of gold is mixed with the other metals. Fourteen karat (14K) jewelry contains 14 parts of gold, mixed in throughout with 10 parts of base metal. The higher the karat rating, the higher the proportion of gold in the piece of jewelry.
Most jewelry is marked with its karat quality, although marking is not required by law. Near the karat quality mark, you should see the name or the U.S. registered trademark of the company that will stand behind the mark. The trademark may be in the form of a name, symbol or initials. If you don't see a trademark accompanying a quality mark on a piece of jewelry, look for another piece.
Solid gold refers to an item made of any karat gold, if the inside of the item is not hollow. The proportion of gold in the piece of jewelry still is determined by the karat mark.
Jewelry can be plated with gold in a variety of ways. Gold plate refers to items that are either mechanically plated, electroplated, or plated by any other means with gold to a base metal. Eventually, gold plating wears away, but how soon will depend on how often the item is worn and how thick the plating is.
Gold-filled, gold overlay and rolled gold plate are terms used to describe jewelry that has a layer of at least 10 karat gold mechanically bonded to a base metal. If the jewelry is marked with one of these terms, the term or abbreviation should follow the karat quality of the gold used (for example, 14K Gold Overlay or 12K RGP). If the layer of karat gold is less than 1/20th of the total weight of the item, any marking must state the actual percentage of karat gold, such as 1/40 14K Gold Overlay.
Gold electroplate describes jewelry that has a layer (at least .175 microns thick) of a minimum of 10 karat gold deposited on a base metal by an electrolytic process. The terms gold flashed or gold washed describe products that have an extremely thin electroplating of gold (less than .175 microns thick). This will wear away more quickly than gold plate, gold-filled or gold electroplate.
Platinum, Silver and Other Metals
Platinum is a precious metal that costs more than gold. It usually is mixed with other similar metals, known as the platinum group metals: iridium, palladium, ruthenium, rhodium and osmium.
Different markings are used on platinum jewelry as compared with gold jewelry, based on the amount of pure platinum in the piece. The quality markings for platinum are based on parts per thousand. For example, the marking 900 Platinum means that 900 parts out of 1000 are pure platinum, or in other words, the item is 90% platinum and 10% other metals. The abbreviations for platinum - Plat. or Pt. - also can be used in marking jewelry.
Items that contain at least 950 parts per thousand pure platinum can be marked simply platinum. Items that have at least 850 parts per thousand pure platinum can be marked with the amount of pure platinum and the word platinum or an abbreviation (for example, 950 platinum, 900 Plat. or 850 Pt.). Jewelry that contains less than 850 parts per thousand pure platinum, but has a total of 950 parts per thousand of platinum group metals (of which at least 500 parts is pure platinum), may be marked with both the amount of pure platinum and the amount of the other platinum group metals in the piece. For example, the marking 600 Plat. 350 Irid. means that the item has 600 parts per thousand (60%) platinum, and 350 parts per thousand (35%) iridium, totaling 950 parts per thousand of platinum group metals, and 50 parts per thousand (5%) other metals.
The words silver or sterling silver describe a product that contains 92.5% silver. Silver products sometimes may be marked 925 which means that 925 parts per thousand are pure silver. Some jewelry may be described as silverplate: a layer of silver is bonded to a base metal. The mark coin silver is used for compounds that contain 90% silver. According to the law, quality-marked silver also must bear the name or a U.S. registered trademark of the company or person that will stand behind the mark.
Vermeil (ver-may), a special type of gold plated product, consists of a base of sterling silver that is coated or plated with gold.
Pewter items may be described and marked as such if they contain at least 90% tin.
Gemstones
Natural gemstones are found in nature. Laboratory-created stones, as the name implies, are made in a laboratory. These stones, which also are referred to as laboratory-grown, [name of manufacturer]-created, or synthetic, have essentially the same chemical, physical and visual properties as natural gemstones.
Laboratory- created stones do not have the rarity of naturally colored stones and they are less expensive than naturally mined stones. By contrast, imitation stones look like natural stones in appearance only, and may be glass, plastic, or less costly stones. Laboratory-created and imitation stones should be clearly identified as such.
Gemstones may be measured by weight, size, or both. The basic unit for weighing gemstones is the carat, which is equal to one-fifth (1/5th) of a gram. Carats are divided into 100 units, called points. For example, a half-carat gemstone would weigh .50 carats or 50 points. When gemstones are measured by dimensions, the size is expressed in millimeters (for example, 7x5 millimeters).
Gemstone treatments or enhancements refer to the way some gems are treated to improve their appearance or durability, or even change their color. Many gemstones are treated in some way. The effects of some treatments may lessen or change over time and some treated stones may require special care. Some enhancements also affect the value of a stone, when measured against a comparable untreated stone.
Jewelers should tell you whether the gemstone you're considering has been treated when: the treatment is not permanent; the treated stone requires special care; or the treatment significantly affects the value of the gemstone.
Some common treatments that you may be told about and their effects include:
- Heating can lighten, darken or change the color of some gems, or improve a gemstone's clarity.
- Irradiation can add more color to colored diamonds, certain other gemstones and pearls.
- Impregnating some gems with colorless oils, wax or resins makes a variety of imperfections less visible and can improve the gemstones' clarity and appearance.
- Fracture filling hides cracks or fractures in gems by injecting colorless plastic or glass into the cracks and improves the gemstones' appearance and durability.
- Diffusion treatment adds color to the surface of colorless gems; the center of the stone remains colorless.
- Dyeing adds color and improves color uniformity in some gemstones and pearls.
- Bleaching lightens and whitens some gems, including jade and pearls.
Diamonds
A diamond's value is based on four criteria: color, cut, clarity, and carat. The clarity and color of a diamond usually are graded. However, scales are not uniform: a clarity grade of "slightly included" may represent a different grade on one grading system versus another, depending on the terms used in the scale. Make sure you know how a particular scale and grade represent the color or clarity of the diamond you're considering. A diamond can be described as "flawless" only if it has no visible surface or internal imperfections when viewed under 10-power magnification by a skilled diamond grader.
As with other gems, diamond weight usually is stated in carats. Diamond weight may be described in decimal or fractional parts of a carat. If the weight is given in decimal parts of a carat, the figure should be accurate to the last decimal place. For example, ".30 carat" could represent a diamond that weighs between .295 - .304 carat. Some retailers describe diamond weight in fractions and use the fraction to represent a range of weights. For example, a diamond described as 1/2 carat could weigh between .47 - .54 carat. If diamond weight is stated as fractional parts of a carat, the retailer should disclose two things: that the weight is not exact, and the reasonable range of weight for each fraction or the weight tolerance being used.
Some diamonds may be treated to improve their appearance in similar ways as other gemstones. Since these treatments improve the clarity of the diamond, some jewelers refer to them as clarity enhancement. One type of treatment - fracture filling - conceals cracks in diamonds by filling them with a foreign substance. This filling may not be permanent and jewelers should tell you if the diamond you're considering has been fracture-filled.
Another treatment - lasering - involves the use of a laser beam to improve the appearance of diamonds that have black inclusions or spots. A laser beam is aimed at the inclusion. Acid is then forced through a tiny tunnel made by the laser beam to remove the inclusion. Lasering is permanent and a laser-drilled stone does not require special care.
While a laser-drilled diamond may appear as beautiful as a comparable untreated stone, it may not be as valuable. That's because an untreated stone of the same quality is rarer and therefore more valuable. Jewelers should tell you whether the diamond you're considering has been laser-drilled.
Imitation diamonds, such as cubic zirconia, resemble diamonds in appearance but are much less costly. Certain laboratory-created gemstones, such as lab-created moissanite, also resemble diamonds and may not be adequately detected by the instruments originally used to identify cubic zirconia. Ask your jeweler if he has the current testing equipment to distinguish between diamonds and other lab-created stones.
Pearls
Natural or real pearls are made by oysters and other mollusks. Cultured pearls also are grown by mollusks, but with human intervention; that is, an irritant introduced into the shells causes a pearl to grow. Imitation pearls are man-made with glass, plastic, or organic materials.
Because natural pearls are very rare, most pearls used in jewelry are either cultured or imitation pearls. Cultured pearls, because they are made by oysters or mollusks, usually are more expensive than imitation pearls. A cultured pearl's value is largely based on its size, usually stated in millimeters, and the quality of its nacre coating, which gives it luster. Jewelers should tell you if the pearls are cultured or imitation.
Some black, bronze, gold, purple, blue and orange pearls, whether natural or cultured, occur that way in nature; some, however, are dyed through various processes. Jewelers should tell you whether the colored pearls are naturally colored, dyed or irradiated.
A Jewelry Shopper’s Checklist
When you're in the market for a piece of jewelry for yourself or someone you love, shop around. Compare quality, price, and service. If you're not familiar with any jewelers in your area, ask family members, friends, and co-workers for recommendations.
You also should:
- Ask for the store's refund and return policy before you buy.
- Check for the appropriate markings on metal jewelry.
- Ask whether the pearls are natural, cultured, or imitation.
- Ask whether a gemstone is natural, laboratory-created, or imitation.
- Ask whether the gemstone has been treated. Is the change permanent? Is special care required?
- Make sure the jeweler writes on the sales receipt any information you relied on when making your purchase, such as the gem's weight or size. Some jewelers also may supply a grading report from a gemological laboratory.
In addition, these tips apply when you're shopping for jewelry online:
- Shop with companies you know or do some homework before buying to make sure a company is legitimate before doing business with it.
- Get the details about the product, as well as the merchant's refund and return policies, before you buy.
- Look for an address to write to or a phone number to call if you have a question, a problem or need help.
For More Information
If you have a problem with the jewelry you purchased, first try to resolve it with the jeweler. If you are dissatisfied with the response, contact your local Better Business Bureau or local consumer protection agency. You also may contact the Jewelers Vigilance Committee's Alternative Dispute Resolution Service. This program assists consumers and businesses in resolving disputes about jewelry. The Jewelers Vigilance Committee (JVC) is an independent, non-profit organization formed to advance ethical practices in the jewelry industry. You may contact the JVC by mail: 25 West 45th Street, Suite 400, New York, NY 10036-4902, or by phone: 212-997-2002.
More info @ http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/conline/pubs/products/jewelry.htm
Sunday, January 28, 2007
Crown Jewels Of Iran
By V.B.Meen and A.D.Tushingham
University of Toronto Press
1968 ISBN 0-8020-1519-0
University of Toronto Press writes:
The most dazzling collection of gemstones and jewelry known in the world is the subject of this book and its 83-full color illustrations.
The Crown Jewels of Iran have been little more than a legend in the past. Travelers marveled at the splendor surrounding the shahs of ancient Persia; but few were permitted to examine it in any detail. Now the most spectacular objects have been placed on public display and form one of the country’s principal tourist attractions.
The authors have made the first scientific study of the treasures stored in Tehran. They report on a profusion of gemstone without match as a group in number, size or quality. The existence of many of the stones had been only rumored until their study; others were totally unknown to gemologists. The collection contains half the world’s known cut diamonds of more than 100 carats; scores of emeralds two inches or more in diameter; a gigantic 500-carat spinel; a unique assemblage of rubies.
The settings are no less remarkable—whether part of the Imperial Regalia, an item of jewelry, an object of dinnerware, or a royal toy.
Each of the objects illustrated is accompanied by gemological data. Each also is placed in historical context. The Crown Jewels were gathered by conquest, purchase and gift. Their story reflects the past of the nation, the society and the personalities for which they were fashioned.
About the authors
V.B.Meen was Chief Mineralogist of the Royal Ontario Museum, Toronto until his death in 1971.
A.D.Tushingham is Chief Archeologist of the Royal Ontario Museum and Professor of Near Eastern Studies in the University of Toronto.
University of Toronto Press
1968 ISBN 0-8020-1519-0
University of Toronto Press writes:
The most dazzling collection of gemstones and jewelry known in the world is the subject of this book and its 83-full color illustrations.
The Crown Jewels of Iran have been little more than a legend in the past. Travelers marveled at the splendor surrounding the shahs of ancient Persia; but few were permitted to examine it in any detail. Now the most spectacular objects have been placed on public display and form one of the country’s principal tourist attractions.
The authors have made the first scientific study of the treasures stored in Tehran. They report on a profusion of gemstone without match as a group in number, size or quality. The existence of many of the stones had been only rumored until their study; others were totally unknown to gemologists. The collection contains half the world’s known cut diamonds of more than 100 carats; scores of emeralds two inches or more in diameter; a gigantic 500-carat spinel; a unique assemblage of rubies.
The settings are no less remarkable—whether part of the Imperial Regalia, an item of jewelry, an object of dinnerware, or a royal toy.
Each of the objects illustrated is accompanied by gemological data. Each also is placed in historical context. The Crown Jewels were gathered by conquest, purchase and gift. Their story reflects the past of the nation, the society and the personalities for which they were fashioned.
About the authors
V.B.Meen was Chief Mineralogist of the Royal Ontario Museum, Toronto until his death in 1971.
A.D.Tushingham is Chief Archeologist of the Royal Ontario Museum and Professor of Near Eastern Studies in the University of Toronto.
Affluenza
Paul Majendie writes:
Rampant consumerism erodes us
Beware the Affluenza Virus. An epidemic of mindless consumerism is sweeping the world with the compulsive pursuit of money and possessions making people richer but sadder.
That is the stark warning issued by best-selling British psychologist Oliver James after a "mind tour" of seven countries chronicling how depression envelopes the affluent.
"We have become addicted to having rather than being and confusing our needs with our wants," he told Reuters in an interview to mark publication on Thursday of "Affluenza."
Globe-trotting from New York to Sydney, Singapore and Shanghai via Copenhagen, Moscow and Auckland, he concluded after interviewing 240 people that "selfish capitalism" has run riot. Bigger houses, more cars, larger televisions, younger faces -- these goals are frenetically pursued by middle-class workaholics afflicted by "Affluenza."
"Studies in lots of different nations show that if you place high value on those things, you are more likely to suffer depression, anxiety, addictions and personality disorders," he said. James concluded, "People in English-speaking nations are twice as likely to be mentally ill as people living in mainland western European nations."
Always wanting bigger and better is an emotional cul de sac, argues the 53-year-old psychologist, broadcaster and author. What makes "Affluenza" so readable and differentiates his eloquent polemic from the legion of self-help books that offer trite short-cuts to happiness are the potted biographies of the subjects he interviews.
Take New York.
Compare and contrast Sam, the miserable millionaire and sex-addicted atheist who treats women as commodities for fleeting satisfaction, with Chet the Nigerian taxi driver who is contented, optimistic, sexually faithful and religious.
James freely admits that interviewing the affluent in Sydney was a depressing job, calling it "the Dolly Parton of cities in Australia, the most vacuous." Singapore, where he found shopping to be the national obsession, suffered from "sad, unplayful deadness." Denmark was commendable, worthy but not exactly "a barrel of laughs." But not all was doom and gloom for the peripatetic psychologist.
He admired the Chinese for their "best is good enough" stoicism and said "I most liked the Muscovites as they still have an interest in the life of the mind."
James the optimistic believes the backlash has begun.
"We are at a turning point. My argument dovetails with the ecological argument -- we cannot carry on consuming in this manner and feel confident our great grandchildren have any future. This inevitably leads us to question consumerism."
"People are sick to the back teeth of this stuff. They don't want any more selfish capitalism."
More info @ http://news.yahoo.com/s/nm/20070125/hl_nm/rampant_consumerism_dc
Rampant consumerism erodes us
Beware the Affluenza Virus. An epidemic of mindless consumerism is sweeping the world with the compulsive pursuit of money and possessions making people richer but sadder.
That is the stark warning issued by best-selling British psychologist Oliver James after a "mind tour" of seven countries chronicling how depression envelopes the affluent.
"We have become addicted to having rather than being and confusing our needs with our wants," he told Reuters in an interview to mark publication on Thursday of "Affluenza."
Globe-trotting from New York to Sydney, Singapore and Shanghai via Copenhagen, Moscow and Auckland, he concluded after interviewing 240 people that "selfish capitalism" has run riot. Bigger houses, more cars, larger televisions, younger faces -- these goals are frenetically pursued by middle-class workaholics afflicted by "Affluenza."
"Studies in lots of different nations show that if you place high value on those things, you are more likely to suffer depression, anxiety, addictions and personality disorders," he said. James concluded, "People in English-speaking nations are twice as likely to be mentally ill as people living in mainland western European nations."
Always wanting bigger and better is an emotional cul de sac, argues the 53-year-old psychologist, broadcaster and author. What makes "Affluenza" so readable and differentiates his eloquent polemic from the legion of self-help books that offer trite short-cuts to happiness are the potted biographies of the subjects he interviews.
Take New York.
Compare and contrast Sam, the miserable millionaire and sex-addicted atheist who treats women as commodities for fleeting satisfaction, with Chet the Nigerian taxi driver who is contented, optimistic, sexually faithful and religious.
James freely admits that interviewing the affluent in Sydney was a depressing job, calling it "the Dolly Parton of cities in Australia, the most vacuous." Singapore, where he found shopping to be the national obsession, suffered from "sad, unplayful deadness." Denmark was commendable, worthy but not exactly "a barrel of laughs." But not all was doom and gloom for the peripatetic psychologist.
He admired the Chinese for their "best is good enough" stoicism and said "I most liked the Muscovites as they still have an interest in the life of the mind."
James the optimistic believes the backlash has begun.
"We are at a turning point. My argument dovetails with the ecological argument -- we cannot carry on consuming in this manner and feel confident our great grandchildren have any future. This inevitably leads us to question consumerism."
"People are sick to the back teeth of this stuff. They don't want any more selfish capitalism."
More info @ http://news.yahoo.com/s/nm/20070125/hl_nm/rampant_consumerism_dc
The Federal Trade Commission’s Guide for the Jewelry, Precious Metals and Pewter Industries
FTC writes:
23.3 Misuse of the terms "hand-made," "hand-polished," etc.
(a) It is unfair or deceptive to represent, directly or by implication, that any industry product is hand-made or hand-wrought unless the entire shaping and forming of such product from raw materials and its finishing and decoration were accomplished by hand labor and manually-controlled methods which permit the maker to control and vary the construction, shape, design, and finish of each part of each individual product.
Note to paragraph (a): As used herein, "raw materials" include bulk sheet, strip, wire, and similar items that have not been cut, shaped, or formed into jewelry parts, semi-finished parts, or blanks.
(b) It is unfair or deceptive to represent, directly or by implication, that any industry product is hand-forged, hand-engraved, hand-finished, or hand-polished, or has been otherwise hand-processed, unless the operation described was accomplished by hand labor and manually-controlled methods which permit the maker to control and vary the type, amount, and effect of such operation on each part of each individual product.
More info @ http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/guides/jewel-gd.htm
23.3 Misuse of the terms "hand-made," "hand-polished," etc.
(a) It is unfair or deceptive to represent, directly or by implication, that any industry product is hand-made or hand-wrought unless the entire shaping and forming of such product from raw materials and its finishing and decoration were accomplished by hand labor and manually-controlled methods which permit the maker to control and vary the construction, shape, design, and finish of each part of each individual product.
Note to paragraph (a): As used herein, "raw materials" include bulk sheet, strip, wire, and similar items that have not been cut, shaped, or formed into jewelry parts, semi-finished parts, or blanks.
(b) It is unfair or deceptive to represent, directly or by implication, that any industry product is hand-forged, hand-engraved, hand-finished, or hand-polished, or has been otherwise hand-processed, unless the operation described was accomplished by hand labor and manually-controlled methods which permit the maker to control and vary the type, amount, and effect of such operation on each part of each individual product.
More info @ http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/guides/jewel-gd.htm
Color Encyclopedia Of Gemstones
By Joel E Arem
Van Nostrand Reinhold Ltd
1977 ISBN 0-442-20333-0
Van Nostrand Reinhold writes:
This important new encyclopedia is a milestone in lapidary publishing. It is the first reference source to present data on every known species and varieties of gemstone. Furthermore, its rich selection of color photographs shows more species than have ever before appeared in one volume.
You can easily find the data you need to identify any gemstone. Alphabetical listing arranges gems according to mineral species. There is also a complete cross index of familiar gem names. Information on each gem includes chemical formula, crystal structure, colors, luster, hardness, density, cleavage, optics, spectral data, luminescence, and sizes. Over 220 mineral species are covered, and the color plates illustrate more than 185 of these—including all known color varieties of each species. For as many as 100 of the rarer species a color photograph appears for the first time in print.
Arem’s transparencies represent today’s most sophisticated techniques for gem photography. Resulting from his own three-year effort, they show the exact color of faceted gemstones while displaying to best advantage the cut and brilliance derived from the cutting. At the same time ‘hot spots’ or specular reflections from individual facets are avoided. The photos achieve naturalistic solidity and dimension, in many cases clearly revealing the degree of birefringence in a gem, as well as any inclusions.
Some of the data provided have never been published before, such as the dispersion values for 15 gem materials. These values are calculated from material scattered throughout mineralogical literature, and reworked to make them useful for gemologists.
Of practical interest to gem cutters is a special graph relating critical angle and refractive index. Other books list critical angles for various gems, but, because of the wide range in optical properties in certain gem species, these numbers are not always valid. The graph included here makes it possible to determine the exact critical angle to use for the specific material to be cut.
With growing interest in investment potential of gemstones, the lay public can also consult this versatile reference for information or photographs before making a decision to purchase. Collectors of gems, especially connoisseurs, will view the unique color plates of many exotic gem species with special pleasure.
About the author
Joel E Arem was awarded PhD in mineralogy at Harvard in 1970. His research specialties are crystal growth and X-ray crystal structure analysis. Dr Arem is the author of three previously published titles: Rocks and Minerals, Gems and Jewelry, and Man-made Crystals.
Van Nostrand Reinhold Ltd
1977 ISBN 0-442-20333-0
Van Nostrand Reinhold writes:
This important new encyclopedia is a milestone in lapidary publishing. It is the first reference source to present data on every known species and varieties of gemstone. Furthermore, its rich selection of color photographs shows more species than have ever before appeared in one volume.
You can easily find the data you need to identify any gemstone. Alphabetical listing arranges gems according to mineral species. There is also a complete cross index of familiar gem names. Information on each gem includes chemical formula, crystal structure, colors, luster, hardness, density, cleavage, optics, spectral data, luminescence, and sizes. Over 220 mineral species are covered, and the color plates illustrate more than 185 of these—including all known color varieties of each species. For as many as 100 of the rarer species a color photograph appears for the first time in print.
Arem’s transparencies represent today’s most sophisticated techniques for gem photography. Resulting from his own three-year effort, they show the exact color of faceted gemstones while displaying to best advantage the cut and brilliance derived from the cutting. At the same time ‘hot spots’ or specular reflections from individual facets are avoided. The photos achieve naturalistic solidity and dimension, in many cases clearly revealing the degree of birefringence in a gem, as well as any inclusions.
Some of the data provided have never been published before, such as the dispersion values for 15 gem materials. These values are calculated from material scattered throughout mineralogical literature, and reworked to make them useful for gemologists.
Of practical interest to gem cutters is a special graph relating critical angle and refractive index. Other books list critical angles for various gems, but, because of the wide range in optical properties in certain gem species, these numbers are not always valid. The graph included here makes it possible to determine the exact critical angle to use for the specific material to be cut.
With growing interest in investment potential of gemstones, the lay public can also consult this versatile reference for information or photographs before making a decision to purchase. Collectors of gems, especially connoisseurs, will view the unique color plates of many exotic gem species with special pleasure.
About the author
Joel E Arem was awarded PhD in mineralogy at Harvard in 1970. His research specialties are crystal growth and X-ray crystal structure analysis. Dr Arem is the author of three previously published titles: Rocks and Minerals, Gems and Jewelry, and Man-made Crystals.
Friday, January 26, 2007
The Federal Trade Commission’s Guide for the Jewelry, Precious Metals and Pewter Industries
FTC writes:
23.2 Misleading illustrations
It is unfair or deceptive to use, as part of any advertisement, packaging material, label, or other sales promotion matter, any visual representation, picture, televised or computer image, illustration, diagram, or other depiction which, either alone or in conjunction with any accompanying words or phrases, misrepresents the type, kind, grade, quality, quantity, metallic content, size, weight, cut, color, character, treatment, substance, durability, serviceability, origin, preparation, production, manufacture, distribution, or any other material aspect of an industry product.
Note to 23.2: An illustration or depiction of a diamond or other gemstone that portrays it in greater than its actual size may mislead consumers, unless a disclosure is made about the item's true size.
More info @ http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/guides/jewel-gd.htm
23.2 Misleading illustrations
It is unfair or deceptive to use, as part of any advertisement, packaging material, label, or other sales promotion matter, any visual representation, picture, televised or computer image, illustration, diagram, or other depiction which, either alone or in conjunction with any accompanying words or phrases, misrepresents the type, kind, grade, quality, quantity, metallic content, size, weight, cut, color, character, treatment, substance, durability, serviceability, origin, preparation, production, manufacture, distribution, or any other material aspect of an industry product.
Note to 23.2: An illustration or depiction of a diamond or other gemstone that portrays it in greater than its actual size may mislead consumers, unless a disclosure is made about the item's true size.
More info @ http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/guides/jewel-gd.htm
Color change gemstones
Most frequently seen color change gemstones.
- Chrysoberyl (alexandrite)
- Synthetic Chrysoberyl (synthetic alexandrite)
- Color change sapphire
- Synthetic color change sapphire
- Fluorite
- Pyrope / spessartite garnet
- Herderite
- Kyanite
- Monazite
- Spinel
- Synthetic spinel
- Toumaline
- Zultanite
Other color change gemstones
- Chameleon-type diamond (after heating color changes from orange yellow to green when exposed to light).
- Mood stone (quartz glass or plastic triplet containing a layer of liquid crystal which changes color with small changes in its temperature).
- Chrysoberyl (alexandrite)
- Synthetic Chrysoberyl (synthetic alexandrite)
- Color change sapphire
- Synthetic color change sapphire
- Fluorite
- Pyrope / spessartite garnet
- Herderite
- Kyanite
- Monazite
- Spinel
- Synthetic spinel
- Toumaline
- Zultanite
Other color change gemstones
- Chameleon-type diamond (after heating color changes from orange yellow to green when exposed to light).
- Mood stone (quartz glass or plastic triplet containing a layer of liquid crystal which changes color with small changes in its temperature).
The RRUFF™ Project
The RRUFF project compiles high quality spectral data from characterized minerals worldwide with Raman Spectroscopy, X-ray Diffraction and Electron Microprobe.
Raman Spectroscopy compares their Raman spectral patterns to those from mineral samples that have been positively identified. X-ray Diffraction from powder and single crystal are used to identify and interpret the crystallographic characteristics unique to each mineral. Electron Microprobe analyses the chemical characteristics of each mineral.
The database may become a standard for gemologists, mineralogists and the general public for the identification of minerals. The database currently contains information on approximately 2000+ minerals with more added on regular basis.
The RRUFF™ project includes the research groups of Dr Robert T Downs (Geosciences, Arizona), Dr M Bonner Denton (Chemistry, Arizona), and Dr George R Rossman (Geological and Planetary Science, Caltech).
More info @ http://rruff.info
Raman Spectroscopy compares their Raman spectral patterns to those from mineral samples that have been positively identified. X-ray Diffraction from powder and single crystal are used to identify and interpret the crystallographic characteristics unique to each mineral. Electron Microprobe analyses the chemical characteristics of each mineral.
The database may become a standard for gemologists, mineralogists and the general public for the identification of minerals. The database currently contains information on approximately 2000+ minerals with more added on regular basis.
The RRUFF™ project includes the research groups of Dr Robert T Downs (Geosciences, Arizona), Dr M Bonner Denton (Chemistry, Arizona), and Dr George R Rossman (Geological and Planetary Science, Caltech).
More info @ http://rruff.info
Treasures From The Kremlin
By The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York
1979 ISBN 0-87099-193-0
The Metropolitan Museum of Art writes:
The Kremlin in Moscow is one of the world’s greatest repositories of Russian art. Gold and silver objects of astounding beauty, arms and armor, icons, ceremonial equestrian trappings, textiles, and incomparable Russian needlework are preserved in the seven museums and churches that comprise the State Museums of the Moscow Kremlin. Magnificent objects from these, including masterworks of Western European art from the Kremlin collections, are pictured in Treasures from the Kremlin. More than two hundred illustrations, half of them reproduced in full color, reveal objects of extraordinary artistic excellence and historical significance ranging from the twelfth to the twentieth century.
Treasures from the Kremlin grew out of the great exhibition of Russian art at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. Six curators of the Kremlin museums offer engrossing and authoritative essays about their individual subjects.
Starting with such fabled medieval works as the twelfth-century silver gilt chalice of Yurii Dolgorukii, founder of Moscow, and the icon The Savior of the Fiery Eye, we move on to the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. During this period Moscow became the political, religious, and artistic center of Russia, and the decorative arts reached the height of their splendor. Within the walls of the Kremlin, the churches and palaces blazed with an incredible profusion of artworks. From the Armory, which was the private treasury of the czars, came masterworks of the goldsmith’s and armorer’s art. The damascened helmet of Ivan the Terrible’s son and the coat of mail worn by Boris Godunov are illustrated in this volume.
Here too are enameled saddles; silver bridle chains, flagons, and platters; exquisite gold liturgical vessels and pearl embroidered hangings from the Kremlin’s churches. The eighteenth and nineteenth centuries are also generously represented.
A brilliant closing note comes from the atelier of the peerless Carl Faberge—and early twentieth- century representation of the Kremlin itself, executed in gold and jewels.
A selected bibliography and an index of Russian names further enhance the scope of Treasures from the Kremlin.
1979 ISBN 0-87099-193-0
The Metropolitan Museum of Art writes:
The Kremlin in Moscow is one of the world’s greatest repositories of Russian art. Gold and silver objects of astounding beauty, arms and armor, icons, ceremonial equestrian trappings, textiles, and incomparable Russian needlework are preserved in the seven museums and churches that comprise the State Museums of the Moscow Kremlin. Magnificent objects from these, including masterworks of Western European art from the Kremlin collections, are pictured in Treasures from the Kremlin. More than two hundred illustrations, half of them reproduced in full color, reveal objects of extraordinary artistic excellence and historical significance ranging from the twelfth to the twentieth century.
Treasures from the Kremlin grew out of the great exhibition of Russian art at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. Six curators of the Kremlin museums offer engrossing and authoritative essays about their individual subjects.
Starting with such fabled medieval works as the twelfth-century silver gilt chalice of Yurii Dolgorukii, founder of Moscow, and the icon The Savior of the Fiery Eye, we move on to the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. During this period Moscow became the political, religious, and artistic center of Russia, and the decorative arts reached the height of their splendor. Within the walls of the Kremlin, the churches and palaces blazed with an incredible profusion of artworks. From the Armory, which was the private treasury of the czars, came masterworks of the goldsmith’s and armorer’s art. The damascened helmet of Ivan the Terrible’s son and the coat of mail worn by Boris Godunov are illustrated in this volume.
Here too are enameled saddles; silver bridle chains, flagons, and platters; exquisite gold liturgical vessels and pearl embroidered hangings from the Kremlin’s churches. The eighteenth and nineteenth centuries are also generously represented.
A brilliant closing note comes from the atelier of the peerless Carl Faberge—and early twentieth- century representation of the Kremlin itself, executed in gold and jewels.
A selected bibliography and an index of Russian names further enhance the scope of Treasures from the Kremlin.
Thursday, January 25, 2007
New Technologies In Gemology
According to Emmanuel Fritsch of The Institute des Materiaux Jean Rouxel in France, gem identification may become user / consumer-friendly in terms of cost, availability and practical application with the following analytical techniques:
- Luminescence
- Laser Breakdown Spectroscopy (LIBS)
- Laser Ablation Inductively Coupled Plasma Mass Spectrometry (LA-ICP-MS)
- Energy Dispersive X-ray Fluorscence (EDXRF)
- Isotopic Analysis
The analytical techniques may be useful to map gemstone properties, country of origin, and also the specific mine.
- Luminescence
- Laser Breakdown Spectroscopy (LIBS)
- Laser Ablation Inductively Coupled Plasma Mass Spectrometry (LA-ICP-MS)
- Energy Dispersive X-ray Fluorscence (EDXRF)
- Isotopic Analysis
The analytical techniques may be useful to map gemstone properties, country of origin, and also the specific mine.
About Men
I like a man who's good, but not too good--for the good die young, and I hate a dead one.
- Mae West
- Mae West
Gem Cutting
By John Sinkankas
A Lapidary’s Manual
Van Nostrand Reinhold Company
1984 ISBN 0-442-27630-3
Van Nostrand Reinhold Company writes:
What could be a more helpful tool for the lapidarist, beginner or expert, than this new edition of the gem cutter’s bible?
This expanded and updated volume thoroughly examines advances in the lapidary arts over the past twenty years. Recent discoveries of natural gemstones—some of them previously unknown in lapidary quality—plus the production of synthetic gemstones and the increased use of diamond abrasives and polishing agents are investigated in this classic guide to properties and treatments of gem materials.
This reference manual, packed with over 200 illustrations, continues to stress simplicity in equipment and technique. Gem cutting methods that have withstood the test of time are given with crystal clear instructions. Useful money-saving tips on how to make lapidary tools are included as well. Expert gemologist John Sinkankas provides valuable guidance on:
- gemstones—sawing, grinding, lapping, sanding, polishing, and drilling
- cabochons and how to cut them
- faceted gems—how to cut them and the equipment for cutting
- spheres and beads
- tumbling
- carving and engraving
- mosaic and inlay work
The last chapter provides a summary of many dozens of gem materials and how they may be successfully cut, the result of Sinkankas’s many years of hands on experience.
About the author
John Sinkankas is the author of the first two editions of Gem Cutting, published by Van Nostrand Reinhold, as well as many other books over 100 articles for popular and scientific journals.
A Lapidary’s Manual
Van Nostrand Reinhold Company
1984 ISBN 0-442-27630-3
Van Nostrand Reinhold Company writes:
What could be a more helpful tool for the lapidarist, beginner or expert, than this new edition of the gem cutter’s bible?
This expanded and updated volume thoroughly examines advances in the lapidary arts over the past twenty years. Recent discoveries of natural gemstones—some of them previously unknown in lapidary quality—plus the production of synthetic gemstones and the increased use of diamond abrasives and polishing agents are investigated in this classic guide to properties and treatments of gem materials.
This reference manual, packed with over 200 illustrations, continues to stress simplicity in equipment and technique. Gem cutting methods that have withstood the test of time are given with crystal clear instructions. Useful money-saving tips on how to make lapidary tools are included as well. Expert gemologist John Sinkankas provides valuable guidance on:
- gemstones—sawing, grinding, lapping, sanding, polishing, and drilling
- cabochons and how to cut them
- faceted gems—how to cut them and the equipment for cutting
- spheres and beads
- tumbling
- carving and engraving
- mosaic and inlay work
The last chapter provides a summary of many dozens of gem materials and how they may be successfully cut, the result of Sinkankas’s many years of hands on experience.
About the author
John Sinkankas is the author of the first two editions of Gem Cutting, published by Van Nostrand Reinhold, as well as many other books over 100 articles for popular and scientific journals.
The Federal Trade Commission’s Guide for the Jewelry, Precious Metals and Pewter Industries
FTC writes:
23.1 Deception (general)
It is unfair or deceptive to misrepresent the type, kind, grade, quality, quantity, metallic content, size, weight, cut, color, character, treatment, substance, durability, serviceability, origin, price, value, preparation, production, manufacture, distribution, or any other material aspect of an industry product.
Note 1 to 23.1: If, in the sale or offering for sale of an industry product, any representation is made as to the grade assigned the product, the identity of the grading system used should be disclosed.
Note 2 to 23.1: To prevent deception, any qualifications or disclosures, such as those described in the guides, should be sufficiently clear and prominent. Clarity of language, relative type size and proximity to the claim being qualified, and an absence of contrary claims that could undercut effectiveness, will maximize the likelihood that the qualifications and disclosures are appropriately clear and prominent.
More info @ http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/guides/jewel-gd.htm
23.1 Deception (general)
It is unfair or deceptive to misrepresent the type, kind, grade, quality, quantity, metallic content, size, weight, cut, color, character, treatment, substance, durability, serviceability, origin, price, value, preparation, production, manufacture, distribution, or any other material aspect of an industry product.
Note 1 to 23.1: If, in the sale or offering for sale of an industry product, any representation is made as to the grade assigned the product, the identity of the grading system used should be disclosed.
Note 2 to 23.1: To prevent deception, any qualifications or disclosures, such as those described in the guides, should be sufficiently clear and prominent. Clarity of language, relative type size and proximity to the claim being qualified, and an absence of contrary claims that could undercut effectiveness, will maximize the likelihood that the qualifications and disclosures are appropriately clear and prominent.
More info @ http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/guides/jewel-gd.htm
Aventurescent Gemstones
Most frequently seen aventurescent gemstones
- Aventurine quartz (quartzite)
- Sunstone (oligoclase or labradorite feldspar)
Imitation aventurine gemstones
- Goldstone (man-made aventurine glass)
- Aventurine quartz (quartzite)
- Sunstone (oligoclase or labradorite feldspar)
Imitation aventurine gemstones
- Goldstone (man-made aventurine glass)
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