Gem Trader

By Louis Kornitzer
Sheridan House, New York
1939

Louis Kornitzer writes:

I inherit the world of gems.

Many years ago, when I was walking in Northumberland, I came across an old fellow on the banks of the Coquet who was busy making artificial flies. He looked the sort of oddity who is worth a good story or two for the trouble of drawing him out, so without any formal preliminaries beyond that of praising the blueness of the sky and the wetness of the water at our feet I squatted on my heels beside him.

For a long while I had to be content with watching in silence while the taciturn old man continued with his work. But after I had thought to make him free of my tobacco pouch he talked freely as one brother of the weed to another. From youth up it appeared that he had been making flies for the gentry in those parts and for the trade. He was an expert, and no wonder, for he had learned his craft from his father, who had been taught by his father and so back into the mists of time. Not only that, but this singular occupation, which my casual riverside acquaintance had followed all his life, had also been the calling of nearly every member of his family for several generations. One of his brothers, he told me, had gone out to British Colombia, and another to New Zealand, while a third had not gone but had emigrated to Ireland; and all of them, not to mention numerous cousins, second cousins and nephews, were engaged in the fishing fly and tackle business.

While I first thought of writing this book I cast my mind back to that chance meeting on the bank of the Coquet and thought that I and this old chap were in much the same case in the way we had inherited our occupations. He had inherited artificial fly making. I for my part had inherited gem dealing. I had, in other words, inherited the prescriptive right to risk all I had on the dubious chance of earning a living from a somewhat fickle trade.

My great-grandfather on my mother’s side was a pearl merchant, and my grandfather, his son, and at least one of his brothers, one resident in Vienna and the other in London, followed in their father’s footsteps, and my mother herself, first was a wife of man more student than business man and then as a widow, brought up a family of eight children on what she made as a shrewd dealer in gems.

My uncle who stayed in Vienna had no sons by any of the three wives who had sweetened his days, so he adopted a boy when he was nearing seventy and trained him in his ways to make a pearl man of him before the breed die out and leave humanity with no one to supply it with expert knowledge about gems. For he took the métier of our family seriously and thought that the gem world depended upon us.

My London uncle was more fortunate in his progeny, for he had two sons, one of whom was to become one of the world’s leading exponents of pearlcraft, while the other went to the New World, then sadly deficient in pearl experts, and there thrived for several decades to the benefit of his adopted country as much as to himself.

Not-after-all this—that the daughters of the breed were negligible when it came to carrying on the tradition. My mother was not an exception. She had four or five sisters who married husbands and taught them what had been so well learned in the paternal home, making pearl merchants of them. And so, through sons and daughters alike, the family trade passed down through the generations.

If pearls were the main theme of my family’s existence, still there were various cousins and second cousins of mine who varied it by taking to diamonds and the lesser gems, the reason presumably being that the known pearl fisheries did not yield a sufficient supply of gems to provide a livelihood for all my numerous connections. This was before the discovery of the Australian pearl beds, in the development of which, as I have written elsewhere, I played my part.

Of my own generation, in my own immediate family, all the five sons went into the family game and all the three daughters married into the trade. From my earliest days I have lived and breathed in the atmosphere of gems. And if I have sometimes strayed to other ways of making a few pounds here and there as a general merchant, yet I have to thank pearls and precious stones, and other stones not so precious, for my very existence. If am not like the cheese-mite in the Gorgonzola, all cheese, at least my interest are almost as exclusive and for the same reason. The cheese-mite and I were both born in the business.

A rough count for the purposes of this survey has revealed, to my astonishment, that no fewer than forty seven members of my family, more or less closely related, have thought the gem business good enough for them. Nor have their activities been confined to one country or even one continent. In the fullest sense of the word they have looked upon the world s their oyster. Poland, France, Germany, Austria-Hungary, Australia, Spain, Belgium, England, USA, Venezuela, Panama, the Philippine Islands, South Africa, China, Japan, Turkey, Brazil, Colombia, Malaya are some of the countries whither the feet of my far flung kin have stayed. Truly, like the British Empire, the sun never sets on them! They also inhabit the older centers of the gem trade where from time immemorial men have dealt in precious stones and in pearls. The Habibs and the Rosenthals of Bahrein in the Persian Gulf, and the Menasses of the Levant and Salonika and of India, are also connections of mine, and these are names which men know honorably wherever gems are the merchandise.

Success in a material sense may not have come to all these relatives of mine. But they fought their battles in a tough trade bravely enough and there is success in that. Some of them were pioneers. I think, for instance, of an uncle who went out to South Africa, lured by the early tales of great discoveries of diamonds in the Cape. I believe that with him discretion was not the better part and that he paid dearly for transgressing against the strict laws relating to I.D.B. He had left behind in Europe the wife of his bosom and did not return to her for thirty years. She could have presumed his death and remarried, but this she steadfastly refused to do. There were many who admired her faithfulness, and at last this was rewarded. Her errant spouse returned to her. Then at last was her tongue unloosed. As an eyewitness later told me, she gave him such a complete dressing down that fled back whence he had come and never saw his Griselda again, no doubt preferring his final fate as a Rhodesian lion’s dinner.

Other pioneers were a cousin of mine whose intrepidity helped to make known in the eighties of last century the pleasing if not first rate pearls of California, and two other cousins who braved fevers and discomforts galore when Panama was still an unhealthy spot. For one succumbed to Yellow Jack on the Isthmus and the other paid with lifelong ill health for such competency as he had acquired from dealing in the pearls of that region.

One of my mother’s cousins was amongst the fist in recent years to carry on a lively trade in Venezuela pearls. Later on he pioneered in North Western Australia among the pearl fishing centers south of Java Head, several years before I myself went to that unhealthy coast. I met his widow once after his death, and in a burst of confidence she told me of a spot far up the Amazon where her husband had adventured once upon a time and found some huge priceless pearls, only to have them stolen from under his pillow by of the ship owner’s crew as he journeyed down to Para. She had intended to keep the secret of where these huge pearls were to be obtained for her eldest son, but as he wisely preferred the quiet life of a diamond merchant in Madrid to that of a pearl pioneer in the wilderness of Brazil, she handed on the chance of a fortune to me. But somehow adventure has always kept me busy elsewhere!

Pioneering does not pay. I mean it does not pay the pioneer. And those of my family who have fared best have been the bread and butter men who did not listen to the Lorelei-song of distant lands, but stayed in the great gem trading centers of London, Paris and New York. Nevertheless, I have never, for my part, regretted that I have dangerously and not spent my time accumulating a mountain of gold. Nor, I suppose, do those who live and die exploring the far corners of the world really regret having thus lived and thus died.

To my mind there is nothing like the quest for gems at their source, which will throw a man into the whirlpool of adventure and—if he has eyes to see it—into the arms of romance itself. Adventure and romance usually prove to be uncommonly uncomfortable at first hand, but they are the stuff of memory, and memories studded with gems, memories literally bejeweled, are to me memories worth having indeed. More to the point as far as my readers are concerned, they are memories worth sharing.

Spinel

Gemmology Queensland writes:

The Flawless Spinel

According to Scottish gemologist, Alan Hodgkinson, red spinels that are flawless, when observed in a horizontal microscope, are few and far between. But the proposal to a flawless red spinel is sound, as this forces gemologists to investigate further, a previous generation of gemologists did have to discover Plato structures in otherwise flawless Verneuil synthetic corundums.

Among the many gemological treasures in Anderson’s Gem Testing was his discovery that the multi-line emission spectra of natural spinel contrasted with the single line emission of the various synthetic spinels. Seeing is believing and as with most processes, technique is all important for success.

It is not easy to achieve positive results, when attempting to use longwave ultraviolet light to study the fluorescent emission spectrum of gemstones, for ultraviolet damage to eyes is a real possibility. Better results may be achieved using tungsten or halogen light that has been filtered with a blue filter.

The blue exciter filter, sold by McCrone Instruments, or a saturated solution of copper sulphate, is ideal for this purpose. When this filter is crossed with a red Barrier filter, it then becomes possible to observe fluorescent chromium spectra in gemstones.

The blue exciter filter can be used alone to detect the emission spectra of red spinels, however, a strong light source must be used to ensure success.

Preferably:
- work in total darkness.
- illuminate the spinel to achieve maximum transmission.
- place the blue exciter filter against the stone, on opposite side to the light source.
- observe the emission spectrum with a good quality spectroscope such as the OPL diffraction grating spectroscope. Note that the spectroscope should be held close to the blue filter so that it can analyze all the wavelengths emitted by the fluorescing stone.

What you observe from red spinel will be either the multi-emission lines of natural red spinel that are contrasted against the general gloom of the natural spinel, or only a single 686nm emission line that identifies the various synthetic red spinels.

Hodgkinson’s advice to those who wish to learn the fluorescent emission lines in red spinel is…..try, try, try again. Success will be your reward.

Incandescent Lights

Jennifer Kho and Adena DeMonte writes:

Could California Ban the Bulb?
A proposal to nix incandescent lights could illuminate a new market for energy-efficient lighting technologies.

If California Assemblyman Lloyd Levine has his way, incandescent bulbs—the most common light bulbs in the world—could be outlawed in the state.

He has proposed a ban on the sale of conventional light bulbs, called the How Many Legislators Does it Take to Change a Light Bulb Act, by 2012.

If the act is approved, it could electrify the lighting industry, driving new technology and challenging large light-bulb manufacturers like General Electric, Osram Sylvania, and Philips. Along with Wal-Mart’s push to sell 100 million compact fluorescent bulbs by 2008, the proposal could signify the start of a huge trend that could change light as we know it.

More info @ http://www.redherring.com/Article.aspx?a=21087&hed=Could+California+Ban+the+Bulb%3f

Marathon Man Movie

Memorable quote (s) from the movie:

Christian Szell (Laurence Olivier): Well, what are you going to do now, shoot me?

Babe (Dustin Hoffman): No, I don't think so.

Christian Szell (Laurence Olivier): Then you're going to take these (the diamonds)

Christian Szell (Lawrence Olivier): from me? If I could say a word about that...

Babe (Dustin Hoffman): No, you can keep them. You can keep as many as you can swallow.

The Federal Trade Commission’s Guide for the Jewelry, Precious Metals and Pewter Industries

FTC writes:

23.9 Additional guidance for the use of quality marks.

As used in these guides, the term quality mark means any letter, figure, numeral, symbol, sign, word, or term, or any combination thereof, that has been stamped, embossed, inscribed, or otherwise placed on any industry product and which indicates or suggests that any such product is composed throughout of any precious metal or any precious metal alloy or has a surface or surfaces on which there has been plated or deposited any precious metal or precious metal alloy. Included are the words "gold," "karat," "carat," "silver," "sterling," (c) The following are examples of markings and descriptions that are not considered unfair or deceptive:
(1) The following abbreviations for each of the PGM may be used for quality marks on articles: "Plat." or "Pt." for Platinum; "Irid." or "Ir." for Iridium; "Pall." or "Pd." for Palladium; "Ruth." or "Ru." for Ruthenium; "Rhod." or "Rh." for Rhodium; and "Osmi." or "Os." for Osmium.

(2) An industry product consisting of at least 950 parts per thousand pure Platinum may be marked or described as "Platinum."

(3) An industry product consisting of 850 parts per thousand pure Platinum, 900 parts per thousand pure Platinum, or 950 parts per thousand pure Platinum may be marked "Platinum," provided that the Platinum marking is preceded by a number indicating the amount in parts per thousand of pure Platinum (for industry products consisting of 950 parts per thousand pure Platinum, the marking described in 23.7(b)(2) above is also appropriate). Thus, the following markings may be used: "950Pt.," "950Plat.," "900Pt.," "900Plat.," "850Pt.," or "850Plat."

(4) An industry product consisting of at least 950 parts per thousand PGM, and of at least 500 parts per thousand pure Platinum, may be marked "Platinum," provided that the mark of each PGM constituent is preceded by a number indicating the amount in parts per thousand of each PGM, as for example, "600Pt.350Ir.," "600Plat.350Irid.," or "550Pt.350Pd.50Ir.," "550Plat.350Pall.50Irid."

Note to 23.7: Exemptions recognized in the assay of platinum industry products are listed in the Appendix.

More info @ http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/guides/jewel-gd.htm

Visual Optics

By Alan Hodgkinson
Gemworld International Inc
1999 ISBN 0-964-17334-4

Alan Hodgkinson writes:

Visual Optics is a method of directly observing the optical properties of a faceted gemstone, set or unset, by holding the stone close to the eye and observing a distinctive light source at any distance. This method of viewing a gemstone causes images to form on the retina. The images are the product of the gem’s optical behavior, and one learns to interpret the images observed in relative terms of refraction, birefringence, dispersion, and dichroism. The strongest absorption bands in the spectrum are also apparent, as is the newly described B:D ratio index devised by Hanneman.

When taken into total account, the method allows the gemologist to do much useful work by way of identification, confirmation of identity, distinction between two or more possible identities, or at least narrow the field of a process of elimination.

The target and attraction of Visual Optics, is to provide gemological identification or information—without the use of instruments. The method is most useful for the experienced gemologist, but gives the student an exhilarating exercise in awareness of the optical phenomena in gemstones. This latter factor is lacking in most gemological optics learning programmes.

The initial instructions are an introduction to the subject, and ideal for those unfamiliar with Visual Optic, and who may have little or no standard gem testing equipment. Later in the book you will learn of new developments that enable the method to achieve greater accuracy, and reach to further gemological limits. A Visual Optics kit is now available at:

Alan Hodgkinson
Whinhurst
Portencross by West Kilbride
Ayrshire KA23 9PZ
Scotland, UK
Tel: 01294 822 358
Email: alan-hodgkinson@easynet.co.uk

Gentlemen Prefer Blondes

Memorable quote (s) from the movie:

Lorelei Lee (Marilyn Monroe): A kiss on the hand may be quite continental..... But diamonds are a girl's best friend........A kiss may be grand, but it won't pay the rental on your humble flat......Or help you at the automat..... Men grow cold as girls grow old, and we all lose our charm in the end...... But square-cut or pear-shaped, these rocks won't lost their shape........Diamonds are a girl's best friend.

Updata: Lab-Grown Diamonds Make The Cut

Joshua Davis writes:

This winter, a sparkling diamond landed in front of a technician at the Gemological Institute of America in New York City. He ran tests, noted the stone was man-made, and graded it as he would any diamond. It was the gem industry’s strongest acknowledgment yet that lab-grown diamonds are just as real as natural ones.

More info @ http://www.wired.com/wired/archive/15.02/start.html?pg=6

The Federal Trade Commission’s Guide for the Jewelry, Precious Metals and Pewter Industries

FTC writes:

23.8 Misrepresentation as to content of pewter.

(a) It is unfair or deceptive to mark, describe, or otherwise represent all or part of an industry product as "Pewter" or any abbreviation if such mark or description misrepresents the product's true composition.

(b) An industry product or part thereof may be described or marked as "Pewter" or any abbreviation if it consists of at least 900 parts per 1000 Grade A Tin, with the remainder composed of metals appropriate for use in pewter.

More info @ http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/guides/jewel-gd.htm

Understanding Jewellery

By David Bennett & Daniela Mascetti
Antique Collector’s Club
1989/2003 ISBN 1-85149-430-8

Antique Collector’s Club writes:

Now revised and fully updated, this classic book brings together the identification and dating of all types of jewellery, from the late 18th century until the end of the millennium.

The first section of the book provides a detailed study of gemstones, where they come from and the testing methods which are used to identify precious and semi-precious stones, assess quality and detect fakes. Understanding Jewellery is unique in explaining why values vary, setting out the information in a straightforward and uncomplicated manner, linking the text to specific illustrations.

The authors, Sotheby’s experts, evaluate many millions of pounds worth of jewellery annually and thus handle a complete cross-section of what is available on the market. They have specially selected the 919 superb color plates to show what to look for when purchasing antique jewellery and, equally importantly, what to avoid. Great care has been taken to illustrate each piece of jewellery at its actual size.

This book is already firmly established as a reference work for dealers and collectors of jewellery, and for those interested in the history and development of fashion and style. This new revised and expanded edition adds even further depth to the understanding of the subject.

About the authors
Daniela Mascetti is the author of two books on 18th and 19 century jewellery, and is co-author with Amanda Triossi of Earrings from Antiquity to the Present; Necklaces from Antiquity to the Present and Bulgari.

David Bennet has been involved in all Sotheby’s jewellery collections and sales held during the past 30 years. He gives counseling in hermetic astrology and designs unique jewels, each tailored exactly to the owner’s psyche and personal path.

Most Dangerous Destinations

(via Forbes) The following countries are perceived as the most dangerous destinations in the world for variety of reasons.

1. Somalia

2. Iraq

3. Afghanistan

4. Democratic Republic of the Congo

5. Cote d'Ivorie

6. Pakistan

7. Burundi

8. Sri Lanka

9. Haiti

10. Chad

11. Lebanon

12. Liberia

13. Sudan

Warming 'likely' Man-made, Unstoppable

(via AP) Seth Borenstein writes:

The world's leading climate scientists said global warming has begun, is "very likely" caused by man, and will be unstoppable.

The scientists — using their strongest language yet on the issue — said now that world has begun to warm, hotter temperatures and rises in sea level "would continue for centuries" no matter how much humans control their pollution. The report also linked the warming to the recent increase in stronger hurricanes.

More info @ http://news.yahoo.com/s/ap/20070202/ap_on_sc/france_climate_change

Diamonds Are Forever Movie

Memorable quote (s) from the movie:

Sir Donald Munger (Laurence Naismith): Tell me, Commander, how far does your expertise extend into the field of diamonds?

James Bond ( Sean Connery): Well, hardest substance found in nature, they cut glass, suggest marriages, I suppose it replaced the dog as the girl's best friend. That's about it.

M (Bernard Lee): Refreshing to hear that there is one subject you're not an expert on!

The Federal Trade Commission’s Guide for the Jewelry, Precious Metals and Pewter Industries

FTC writes:

23.7 Misuse of the words "platinum," "iridium," "palladium," "ruthenium," "rhodium," and "osmium."

(a) It is unfair or deceptive to use the words "platinum," "iridium," "palladium," "ruthenium," "rhodium," and "osmium," or any abbreviation to mark or describe all or part of an industry product if such marking or description misrepresents the product’s true composition. The Platinum Group Metals (PGM) are Platinum, Iridium, Palladium, Ruthenium, Rhodium, and Osmium.

(b) The following are examples of markings or descriptions that may be misleading:
(1) Use of the word "Platinum" or any abbreviation, without qualification, to describe all or part of an industry product that is not composed throughout of 950 parts per thousand pure Platinum.

(2) Use of the word "Platinum" or any abbreviation accompanied by a number indicating the parts per thousand of pure Platinum contained in the product without mention of the number of parts per thousand of other PGM contained in the product, to describe all or part of an industry product that is not composed throughout of at least 850 parts per thousand pure platinum, for example,"600Plat."

(3) Use of the word "Platinum" or any abbreviation thereof, to mark or describe any product that is not composed throughout of at least 500 parts per thousand pure Platinum.

(c) The following are examples of markings and descriptions that are not considered unfair or deceptive:
(1) The following abbreviations for each of the PGM may be used for quality marks on articles: "Plat." or "Pt." for Platinum; "Irid." or "Ir." for Iridium; "Pall." or "Pd." for Palladium; "Ruth." or "Ru." for Ruthenium; "Rhod." or "Rh." for Rhodium; and "Osmi." or "Os." for Osmium.

(2) An industry product consisting of at least 950 parts per thousand pure Platinum may be marked or described as "Platinum."

(3) An industry product consisting of 850 parts per thousand pure Platinum, 900 parts per thousand pure Platinum, or 950 parts per thousand pure Platinum may be marked "Platinum," provided that the Platinum marking is preceded by a number indicating the amount in parts per thousand of pure Platinum (for industry products consisting of 950 parts per thousand pure Platinum, the marking described in § 23.7(b)(2) above is also appropriate). Thus, the following markings may be used: "950Pt.," "950Plat.," "900Pt.," "900Plat.," "850Pt.," or "850Plat."

(4) An industry product consisting of at least 950 parts per thousand PGM, and of at least 500 parts per thousand pure Platinum, may be marked "Platinum," provided that the mark of each PGM constituent is preceded by a number indicating the amount in parts per thousand of each PGM, as for example, "600Pt.350Ir.," "600Plat.350Irid.," or "550Pt.350Pd.50Ir.," "550Plat.350Pall.50Irid."

Note to 23.7: Exemptions recognized in the assay of platinum industry products are listed in the Appendix.

More info @ http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/guides/jewel-gd.htm

Gems

By Robert Webster
Revised by B.W.Andersen
Butterworths
1989 (4th Edition), Reprinted 1987, 1989
ISBN 0-408-01148-3

Butterworths writes:

Since it was first published in 1962, Gems: Their Sources, Descriptions and Identification has become firmly established as the most comprehensive and authoritative account of gemstones available in the English language.

The period since publication of the third edition, in 1975, has seen numerous changes of far-reaching consequence for the science of gemology. A large proportion of these changes has been brought about as a direct consequence of the appearance in quantity of cubic zirconia, an extremely successful stimulant of diamond. Thus, a full description of cubic zirconia and the associated new test instruments has been a foremost concern for Basil Anderson in this revision.

There have been other additions to the range of synthetic gemstones, most importantly synthetic opal, and recent advances in the techniques for altering the color of gemstones. These are described and discussed in detail in this new edition, along with several new gem minerals and the current procedures for diamond grading.

Although primarily aimed at the professional jeweler and student gemologist, Gems is also an essential item in the library of the collector and the layman who is interested in precious stones.

About the author
Robert Webster is the author of two other books: Practical Gemmology and The Gemmologist’s Compendium

How To Identify The Source Of African Ivory

Using sophisticated statistical analysis of genetic data the scientists are applying new DNA techniques extracted from African elephant dung and skin samples to identify the origin of illegally poached ivory with remarkable accuracy.

More info @ http://www.abc.net.au/science/news/stories/s1208970.htm

The Pink Panther Movie

Memorable quote (s) from the movie:

Gem dealer 1: As in every stone of this size, there is a flaw.

Sultan: A flaw?

Gem dealer 2: The slightest flaw, your excellency.

Gem dealer 1: If you look deep into the stone, you will perceive the tiniest discoloration. It resembles an animal.

Sultan: An animal?

Gem dealer 1: A little panther.

Sultan: Yes! A pink panther. Come here, Dala. A gift to your father from his grateful people. Some day it will be yours. The most fabulous diamond in all the world. Come closer.

The Federal Trade Commission’s Guide for the Jewelry, Precious Metals and Pewter Industries

FTC writes:

23.6 Misrepresentation as to silver content.

(a) It is unfair or deceptive to misrepresent that an industry product contains silver, or to misrepresent an industry product as having a silver content, plating, electroplating, or coating.

(b) It is unfair or deceptive to mark, describe, or otherwise represent all or part of an industry product as "silver," "solid silver," "Sterling Silver," "Sterling," or the abbreviation "Ster." unless it is at least 925/1,000ths pure silver.

(c) It is unfair or deceptive to mark, describe, or otherwise represent all or part of an industry product as "coin" or "coin silver" unless it is at least 900/1,000ths pure silver.

(d) It is unfair or deceptive to mark, describe, or otherwise represent all or part of an industry product as being plated or coated with silver unless all significant surfaces of the product or part contain a plating or coating of silver that is of substantial thickness.8

(e) The provisions of this section relating to markings and descriptions of industry products and parts thereof are subject to the applicable tolerances of the National Stamping Act or any amendment thereof.9

Note 1 to 23.6: The National Stamping Act provides that silverplated articles shall not "be stamped, branded, engraved or imprinted with the word ‘sterling’ or the word ‘coin,’ either alone or in conjunction with other words or marks." 15 U.S.C. 297(a).

Note 2 to 23.6: Exemptions recognized in the assay of silver industry products are listed in the appendix.

More info @ http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/guides/jewel-gd.htm

Gemstone Enhancement

By Kurt Nassau
Butterworths
1984 ISBN 0-408-01447-4

Butterworths writes:

In recent years there has been a tremendous expansion in the use of treatments to enhance the color and appearance of gemstones. This includes various types of irradiation and heat treatments, colorless impregnations, bleaching, dyeing, diffusion, and other processes. Some of these processes date back at least two thousand years, others are of quite recent origin.

Gemstone Enhancement begins with a short account of the history of gemstone treatments, followed by three chapters giving an outline of the technologies of irradiation, heat, and other enhancement processes. A chapter deals with the techniques used in the identification of treated gemstones and the question of disclosure. The core of the book is an extended alphabetical listing of all the gemstones and related materials which have been applied to each. This includes details of the processes used where known, methods of identification, and references to published descriptions. Additional technical details and scientific explanations are given in Appendixes for the interest of the reader.

The book is written for the gemologist to simplify his or her work: by knowing the details of the possible treatment techniques, the treatments that have been applied to the gemstone under study can be more readily recognized. Collectors, dealers, jewelers, appraisers, pawnbrokers and others interested in gemstones will also gain added insight from knowing the range of possible treatments. All the fundamental concepts are covered, so only a general knowledge of gems is required of the reader.

About the author
Kurt Nassau is the author of Gems Made By Man and The Physics and Chemistry Of Color.

Some Like It Hot

Here is a memorable quote from the movie:

Sugar(Marlyn Monroe): Real diamonds! They must be worth their weight in gold!

Gem Poetry

Pablo Neruda writes:

When you touch the topaz
the topaz touches you;
Awakening the mellow fire
as the wine in the grape
awakens.
Long before it is born, the clear wine
within the stone
gropes for circulation, asks for words,
delivers its mysterious nutriment,
shares the kiss of the human skin
the contact serene
of stone and human being
enkindling a swift corolla
that later returns to be what it was before:
flesh and stone: entities enemies.

The Federal Trade Commission’s Guide for the Jewelry, Precious Metals and Pewter Industries

FTC writes:

23.5 Misuse of the word "vermeil."

(a) It is unfair or deceptive to represent, directly or by implication, that an industry product is "vermeil" if such mark or description misrepresents the product's true composition.

(b) An industry product may be described or marked as "vermeil" if it consists of a base of sterling silver coated or plated on all significant surfaces with gold, or gold alloy of not less than 10 karat fineness, that is of substantial thickness(7) and a minimum thickness throughout equivalent to two and one half (2 1/2) microns (or approximately 100/1,000,000ths of an inch) of fine gold.

Note 1 to 23.5: It is unfair or deceptive to use the term "vermeil" to describe a product in which the sterling silver has been covered with a base metal (such as nickel) plated with gold unless there is a disclosure that the sterling silver is covered with a base metal that is plated with gold.

Note 2 to 23.5: Exemptions recognized in the assay of gold filled, gold overlay, and rolled gold plate industry products are listed in the appendix.

More info @ http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/guides/jewel-gd.htm

Gemstones Of The World

By Walter Schumann
Sterling Publishing Co, Inc
Revised and Expanded Edition

Sterling Publishing Co writes:

Gemstones of the world, the definitive guide to gems for over 20 years, takes the mystery out of appreciating, buying, and selling all kinds. It covers everything from the romance and history of more than 1400 gemstones to their geographic locations, scientific, physical, and color properties, and the way they are formed, structured, and mined. With many charts and diagrams, Schumann offers full coverage of the optical features of gems—light and color, luminescence, refraction, and inclusions—and about densities and the chemical elements of each stone, with fascinating details on different cuts, polishing, synthetic and imitation gems, hardness, cleavage, classification, trade names, rarity, and much more—all with an easy-to-understand text. And then there are the magnificent photographs of the stones themselves in brilliant full color, with full data on the facing page. If you wanted only one book on gemstones in your library, this would be the one!

Wall Street Movie

Memorable quote (s) from the movie:

Bud Fox (Charlie Sheen): How much is enough?

Gordon Gekko (Michael Douglas): It's not a question of enough, pal. It's a zero sum game, somebody wins, somebody loses. Money itself isn't lost or made, it's simply transferred from one perception to another.

The Federal Trade Commission’s Guide for the Jewelry, Precious Metals and Pewter Industries

FTC writes:

23.4 Misrepresentation as to gold content.

(a) It is unfair or deceptive to misrepresent the presence of gold or gold alloy in an industry product, or the quantity or karat fineness of gold or gold alloy contained in the product, or the karat fineness, thickness, weight ratio, or manner of application of any gold or gold alloy plating, covering, or coating on any surface of an industry product or part thereof.

(b) The following are examples of markings or descriptions that may be misleading:2

(1) Use of the word "Gold" or any abbreviation, without qualification, to describe all or part of an industry product, which is not composed throughout of fine (24 karat) gold.

(2) Use of the word "Gold" or any abbreviation to describe all or part of an industry product composed throughout of an alloy of gold, unless a correct designation of the karat fineness of the alloy immediately precedes the word "Gold" or its abbreviation, and such fineness designation is of at least equal conspicuousness.

(3) Use of the word "Gold" or any abbreviation to describe all or part of an industry product that is not composed throughout of gold or a gold alloy, but is surface-plated or coated with gold alloy, unless the word "Gold" or its abbreviation is adequately qualified to indicate that the product or part is only surface-plated.

(4) Use of the term "Gold Plate," "Gold Plated," or any abbreviation to describe all or part of an industry product unless such product or part contains a surface-plating of gold alloy, applied by any process, which is of such thickness and extent of surface coverage that reasonable durability is assured.

(5) Use of the terms "Gold Filled," "Rolled Gold Plate," "Rolled Gold Plated," "Gold Overlay," or any abbreviation to describe all or part of an industry product unless such product or part contains a surface-plating of gold alloy applied by a mechanical process and of such thickness and extent of surface coverage that reasonable durability is assured, and unless the term is immediately preceded by a correct designation of the karat fineness of the alloy that is of at least equal conspicuousness as the term used.

(6) Use of the terms "Gold Plate," "Gold Plated," "Gold Filled," "Rolled Gold Plate," "Rolled Gold Plated," "Gold Overlay,'' or any abbreviation to describe a product in which the layer of gold plating has been covered with a base metal (such as nickel), which is covered with a thin wash of gold, unless there is a disclosure that the primary gold coating is covered with a base metal, which is gold washed.

(7) Use of the term "Gold Electroplate," "Gold Electroplated," or any abbreviation to describe all or part of an industry product unless such product or part is electroplated with gold or a gold alloy and such electroplating is of such karat fineness, thickness, and extent of surface coverage that reasonable durability is assured.

(8) Use of any name, terminology, or other term to misrepresent that an industry product is equal or superior to, or different than, a known and established type of industry product with reference to its gold content or method of manufacture.

(9) Use of the word "Gold" or any abbreviation, or of a quality mark implying gold content (e.g., 9 karat), to describe all or part of an industry product that is composed throughout of an alloy of gold of less than 10 karat fineness.

Note to paragraph (b) § 23.4: The provisions regarding the use of the word "Gold," or any abbreviation, as described above, are applicable to "Duragold," "Diragold," "Noblegold," "Goldine," "Layered Gold," or any words or terms of similar meaning.

(c) The following are examples of markings and descriptions that are consistent with the principles described above:

(1) An industry product or part thereof, composed throughout of an alloy of gold of not less than 10 karat fineness, may be marked and described as "Gold" when such word "Gold," wherever appearing, is immediately preceded by a correct designation of the karat fineness of the alloy, and such karat designation is of equal conspicuousness as the word "Gold" (for example, "14 Karat Gold," "14 K. Gold," or "14 Kt. Gold"). Such product may also be marked and described by a designation of the karat fineness of the gold alloy unaccompanied by the word "Gold" (for example, "14 Karat," "14 Kt.," or "14 K.").

Note to paragraph (c)(1): Use of the term "Gold'' or any abbreviation to describe all or part of a product that is composed throughout of gold alloy, but contains a hollow center or interior, may mislead consumers, unless the fact that the product contains a hollow center is disclosed in immediate proximity to the term "Gold'' or its abbreviation (for example, "14 Karat Gold-Hollow Center," or "14 K. Gold Tubing," when of a gold alloy tubing of such karat fineness). Such products should not be marked or described as "solid" or as being solidly of gold or of a gold alloy. For example, when the composition of such a product is 14 karat gold alloy, it should not be described or marked as either "14 Kt. Solid Gold" or as "Solid 14 Kt. Gold."

(2) An industry product or part thereof, on which there has been affixed on all significant surfaces, by any process, a coating, electroplating, or deposition by any means, of gold or gold alloy of not less than 10 karat fineness that is of substantial thickness,3 and the minimum thickness throughout of which is equivalent to one-half micron (or approximately 20 millionths of an inch) of fine gold,4 may be marked or described as "Gold Plate" or "Gold Plated," or abbreviated, as, for example, G.P. The exact thickness of the plate may be marked on the item, if it is immediately followed by a designation of the karat fineness of the plating which is of equal conspicuousness as the term used (as, for example, "2 microns 12 K. gold plate" or "2µ 12 K. G.P." for an item plated with 2 microns of 12 karat gold.)

Note paragraph (c)(2) to paragraph (b): If an industry product has a thicker coating or electroplating of gold or gold alloy on some areas than others, the minimum thickness of the plate should be marked.

(3) An industry product or part thereof on which there has been affixed on all significant surfaces by soldering, brazing, welding, or other mechanical means, a plating of gold alloy of not less than 10 karat fineness and of substantial thickness5 may be marked or described as "Gold Filled," "Gold Overlay," "Rolled Gold Plate"or an adequate abbreviation, when such plating constitutes at least 1/20th of the weight of the metal in the entire article and when the term is immediately preceded by a designation of the karat fineness of the plating which is of equal conspicuousness as the term used (for example, "14 Karat Gold Filled," "14 Kt. Gold Filled," "14 Kt. G.F.," "14 Kt. Gold Overlay," or "14K. R.G.P."). When conforming to all such requirements except the specified minimum of 1/20th of the weight of the metal in the entire article, the terms "Gold Overlay" and "Rolled Gold Plate" may be used when the karat fineness designation is immediately preceded by a fraction accurately disclosing the portion of the weight of the metal in the entire article accounted for by the plating, and when such fraction is of equal conspicuousness as the term used (for example, "1/40th 12 Kt. Rolled Gold Plate" or "1/40 12 Kt. R.G.P.").

(4) An industry product or part thereof, on which there has been affixed on all significant surfaces by an electrolytic process, an electroplating of gold, or of a gold alloy of not less than 10 karat fineness, which has a minimum thickness throughout equivalent to .175 microns (approximately 7/1,000,000ths of an inch) of fine gold, may be marked or described as "Gold Electroplate" or "Gold Electroplated," or abbreviated, as, for example, "G.E.P." When the electroplating meets the minimum fineness but not the minimum thickness specified above, the marking or description may be "Gold Flashed" or "Gold Washed." When the electroplating is of the minimum fineness specified above and of a minimum thickness throughout equivalent to two and one half (2 1/2) microns (or approximately 100/1,000,000ths of an inch) of fine gold, the marking or description may be "Heavy Gold Electroplate" or "Heavy Gold Electroplated." When electroplatings qualify for the term "Gold Electroplate" (or "Gold Electroplated"), or the term "Heavy Gold Electroplate" (or "Heavy Gold Electroplated"), and have been applied by use of a particular kind of electrolytic process, the marking may be accompanied by identification of the process used, as for example, "Gold Electroplated (X Process)" or "Heavy Gold Electroplated (Y Process)."

(d) The provisions of this section relating to markings and descriptions of industry products and parts thereof are subject to the applicable tolerances of the National Stamping Act or any amendment thereof.6

Note 4 to paragraph (d): Exemptions recognized in the assay of karat gold industry products and in the assay of gold filled, gold overlay, and rolled gold plate industry products, and not to be considered in any assay for quality, are listed in the appendix.

More info @ http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/guides/jewel-gd.htm

Blood Diamond Movie

Here is a memorable quote from the movie:

Danny Archer (Leonardo DiCaprio): In America, it's bling bling. But out here it's bling bang.

Gem Poetry

Pablo Neruda writes:

I invite you to topaz
to the hive
of the yellow stone
to its bees
to the honey congealed
of the topaz
to its day of gold
to the family
of tranquility reverberant;
we are talking of a church
minimal, settled in a flower
like a bee, like
the structure of the sun, leaf of autumn
of the deepest yellow,
of the tree burning
ray to ray, lightning to corolla,
insect and honey and autumn
transformed in the salt of the sun:
this honey, this trembling of the world,
this wheat of the sky
worked out till it converted
to tranquil sun, in pallid topaz.

The Pearl King

By Robert Eunson
1955 Greenberg: Publisher
55-10964

Greenberg writes:

The life story of a street peddler of noodles and sea food who became one of Japan’s richest and most beloved men.

Born in Toba on the southern coast of Japan, Mikimoto became acutely aware of the depletion of the once rich pearl fisheries off the shores of his village. Toward the end of the last century he began experiments to induce oysters to produce pearls. After twelve years of costly and discouraging failures, he hit upon the secret of inserting a granule of mother-of-pearl into the flesh of a three-year-old oyster. The defense mechanism of the oyster then coated the granule until it became a smooth, round pearl.

By 1913, Mikimoto had produced cultured pearls that were outwardly indistinguishable from natural ones. He created a sensation in the pearl marts of the world by offering his pearls at one quarter of the current price. Only a special x-ray machine could detect the difference between Mikimoto’s pearls and the natural ones.

Mikomoto pearl salons were opened in Los Angeles, San Francisco, Chicago, New York, Paris, Bombay, Shanghai, and Kobe. At the height of his career, Mikimoto had 12 million oysters producing 75 percent of the world’s pearls.

But the Pearl King is not merely the story of the birth and growth of a bizarre and gigantic commercial enterprise; it is also the story of the simple, lovable man who discovered the secret and built the business. So astounding were the reports and rumors about him that people came from far corners of the earth to visit him on his almost legendary Pearl Island.

Until he was almost 90 he entertained his factory workers with his juggling feats and conjuring magic. At 94, he was still hale and hearty, still actively managing his business.

Always a great friend and admirer of the United States, Mikimoto refused to support the Japanese warlords during World War II. He spent the war years in seclusion with his family on Pearl Island.

All in all, The Pearl King is one of the most unusual biographies of our century.

About Women

Opportunity knocks for every man, but you have to give a woman a ring.

- Mae West

Gem Poetry

Pablo Neruda writes:

Here is the tree in the pure stone,
in the evidence, in the durable beauty
formed over a hundred million years.

Agate and carnelian and luminaries
replaced saps and wood
till the trunk of the giant
rejected the damp putrefaction
and amalgamated a parallel statue
the living foliage
stripped itself
and when the vertical was flattened,
consumed the forest, the igneous pall,
the celestial ashes covered it
till time and lava bestowed
a guerdon of transparent stone.

Rajesh Exports On Global Prowl

(Via Times News Network) Vivek Sinha writes:

In what would mark the first big-ticket global acquisition in the retail space, jewellery manufacturer Rajesh Exports is in an advanced stage of negotiations to acquire a string of jewellery retail stores abroad for $100-200 million. The company is working on a complex deal where it is going to acquire a mid-size jewellery chain in the US apart from snapping standalone local jewellers in about 15 countries across North America, Europe, Asia and Australia.

According to sources, the US jewellery chain, with which Rajesh Exports is in talks, has about 80-100 stores spread across the country and the deal is expected to be valued at around $50-100 million. This would include its in-house jewellery brands. Rajesh Exports is looking to acquire a majority stake in this chain.

When contacted, Rajesh Exports chairman Rajesh Mehta declined to comment. However, sources informed ET that Mr Mehta is flying off to the US this week to deliberate on the transaction. This deal is expected to be closed within the next 4-6 weeks. The acquisition of the US-based chain by Rajesh Exports is part of a gameplan of becoming a large global retailer of jewellery.

Other countries where negotiations are currently on include the UK, Canada, France, Germany, Switzerland, Thailand, Malaysia, Australia, Singapore, the UAE, Kuwait, Oman and New Zealand. The company would acquire a handful of jewellery retail outlets in each of these countries spread across 35 cities totalling about 50-60 stores.

This strategy is similar to the company’s ongoing retail expansion in India where one of its retail brands — Shubh — is modelled on similar lines by bringing local jewellers in different cities under its umbrella. All the international retail outlets would be under its wholly-owned retailing subsidiary — 24K Retail.

Sources say that the acquisition will be financed through a mix of debt and equity. The company has already announced that it is planning to raise about $150 million from overseas investors, which will part-fund the acquisitions.

The acquisitions would make Rajesh Exports the first Indian retailer with a global spread of outlets. In terms of the number of stores, GHCL may still rank as the largest Indian retailer internationally. The company had last year acquired UK’s home textile retailer Rosebys which has more than 300 stores in the UK.

More info @ http://economictimes.indiatimes.com/News/News_By_Industry/Cons_Products/Fashion__CosmeticsJewellery/Rajesh_Exports_on_global_prowl/articleshow/1361876.cms

Buying Gold And Gemstone Jewelry: The Heart Of The Matter

FTC writes:

If you're planning a gift of gold or gemstone jewelry for your sweetheart, take some time to learn the terms used in the industry. Start with the basics. Carats and karats. What's the difference? Simply put, a carat is a unit of weight for gemstones, including diamonds; a karat is a unit for measuring the purity of gold.

Gold
The higher the karat rating, the higher the proportion of gold in the piece of jewelry. For example, 24 karat (24K) gold has more gold content than 14K gold. But because 24K gold is soft, it's usually mixed with other metals to increase its hardness and durability; 14K jewelry contains 14 parts of gold, mixed in throughout with 10 parts of base metal.

There's a big difference between karat-gold and gold-plated jewelry. Gold-plated describes jewelry with a layer of at least 10K gold bonded to a base metal. Gold plating eventually wears away, depending on how often the item is worn and how thick the plating is.

Gemstones
Gemstones can be naturally mined, laboratory-created or imitation. Stones created in a lab look identical to stones mined from the earth. The big difference is in the cost - laboratory-created stones are less expensive than naturally mined stones. But because they look just like stones mined from the earth, they must be identified as lab-created. Imitation stones resemble naturally mined stones but are not identical and are usually made of glass or plastic. Imitation stones must be identified as imitation. If you are purchasing a naturally mined stone, ask if it has been treated. Gemstone treatments - such as heating, dyeing or bleaching - can improve a stone's appearance or durability. Some treatments are permanent; some may create special care requirements. Treatments also may affect the stone's value.

Diamonds
When you're buying a diamond, consider four criteria, often referred to as "the 4C's" - cut, color, clarity and carat weight. Each factor affects the price. Cut not only refers to the shape of the diamond, but also to the size, angle, uniformity and polish of the facets. Color is sometimes "graded" on a scale. However, scales are not uniform: a "D" may be the best color for one scale, but not for another. Make sure you know how a particular scale and grade represents the color of the diamond you're considering. Clarity refers to the presence or absence of internal flaws, called inclusions that occur naturally within the stone, or to external blemishes, such as scratches or chips. A diamond can be described as "flawless" only if it has no visible surface cracks or other imperfections when viewed under 10-power magnification by a skilled diamond grader. Carat weight may be described in decimal or fractional parts of a carat. If the weight is given in decimal parts of a carat, the figure should be accurate to the last decimal place. For example, ".30 carat" could represent a diamond that weighs between .295 - .304 carat. Some retailers describe diamond weight in fractions and use the fraction to represent a range of weights. For example, a diamond described as ½ carat could weigh between .47 - .54 carat. If diamond weight is stated as fractional parts of a carat, the retailer should disclose two things: that the weight is not exact, and the reasonable range of weight for each fraction or the weight tolerance being used.

A Jewelry Shopper's Checklist
Once you're ready to buy jewelry, shop around. Compare quality, price and service. If you're not familiar with jewelers in your area, ask family members, friends and co-workers for recommendations. Also, when ordering online and you've never heard of the seller, check on its reputation with the Better Business Bureau or the state attorney general's office.

You also should:
- Ask for the store's refund and return policy before you buy. When ordering online, keep printouts of the web pages with details about the transaction, including refund and return policies in case you're not satisfied.
- Check for the appropriate markings on gold jewelry.
- Ask whether a gemstone is natural, laboratory-created, or imitation.
- Ask if the gemstone has been treated. Is the change permanent? Is special care required?
- Make sure the jeweler writes on the sales receipt any information you rely on when you make your purchase, such as the gemstone's weight or size. Some jewelers also may supply a grading report from a gemological laboratory.

The FTC works for the consumer to prevent fraudulent, deceptive and unfair business practices in the marketplace and to provide information to help consumers spot, stop, and avoid them. To file a complaint or to get free information on consumer issues, visit http://www.ftc.gov/ or call toll-free, 1-877-FTC-HELP (1-877-382-4357); TTY: 1-866-653-4261. The FTC enters Internet, telemarketing, identity theft, and other fraud-related complaints into Consumer Sentinel, a secure, online database available to hundreds of civil and criminal law enforcement agencies in the U.S. and abroad.

More info @ http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/conline/pubs/alerts/goldalrt.htm

Gems Made By Man

Kurt Nassau
Gemological Institute of America
1980 ISBN 0-87311-016-1

Gemological Institute of America writes:

The compelling story of man’s efforts to duplicate nature’s finest gems is told with style and expertise by Kurt Nassau, a pioneer in laser technology with twenty years laboratory experience in crystal growth. He relates the failures and successes of scientists who worked to create perfection—not mere gem imitations, but synthetic gemstones with the same chemical composition, crystal structure and appearance as naturally occurring diamonds, rubies, sapphires, emeralds, opals, and other precious stones.

The science of crystal growth is discussed with such clarity that Nassau conveys the excitement of analyzing and reproducing gemstones. First hand technical information and supportive date are provided for the crystal grower and mineralogist. In addition, a number of questions vital to the serious gem collector and the jeweler are answered. What are the causes of color in natural and synthetic gemstones? How can you distinguish natural stones from the many varieties of synthetic counterparts that now exist? What makes a synthetic created by one technique worth more in the marketplace than one created by another method? Will the duplication of nature’s gem affect the future marketplace for natural stones?

About the author
Dr Kurt Nassau is one of the very few persons who could have written the standard reference on gem synthesis. Best known as a pioneer in laser technology, he has worked in the field of crystal growth and solid state chemistry since 1959 as a research scientist at the Bell Laboratories in Murray Hill, New Jersey. He has 14 patents and has written over 200 technical publications and many articles for the Lapidary Journal, the American Mineralogist, and Gems and Gemology.

Zultanite

Zultanite is a variety of the mineral species diaspore. The stones are found in remote mountainous regions in Anatolia, Turkey. The stones are mined using traditional tools such as shovels, chisels, handpicks and carbide lamps.

The color varies in unique shades of yellowish green to purplish pink under different light sources. Sizes over 5 carats (top quality) are difficult to find. The color of Zultanite may look appealing in sizes above 3 carats. Smaller stones may look lighter in color. On the Moh's scale of hardness Zultanite is 6.5-7; specific gravity 3.40. Perfect cleavage indicates great care is required in cutting the stones. The stones are cut in oval, cushion, princess, round, concave, Portuguese round, trillions and other fancy cutting styles depending on the size, shape and quality of the rough material. The stones may also display Chatoyancy (cat’s eye) and Color Change.

Zultanites are known to be free from treatments, for now. The stone is relatively hard but may be damaged from careless handling. A little care and commonsense may add life to the stone by avoiding ultrasonic cleaner; instead clean with warm water, mild soap and soft brush. Sudden temperature changes or heat may damage the stone; store separately from other gemstones and jewelry. World's largest Zultanite "Sultan's Cushion" weighs 41.12 carats.

Name: After the 36 Sultans who founded the Ottoman Empire (today's Turkey) in Anatolia in the late 13th century.

About Modern Education

Charles T Munger, Vice-Chairman of Berkshire Hathaway Corporation writes:

The theory of modern education is that you need a general education before you specialize. And I think to some extent, before you're going to be a great stock picker, you need some general education. So, emphasizing what I sometimes waggishly call remedial worldly wisdom, I'm going to start by waltzing you through a few basic notions.

What is elementary, worldly wisdom?
Well, the first rule is that you can't really know anything if you just remember isolated facts and try and bang 'em back. If the facts don't hang together o­n a latticework of theory, you don't have them in a usable form.You've got to have models in your head. And you've got to array your experience both vicarious and direct o­n this latticework of models. You may have noticed students who just try to remember and pound back what is remembered. Well, they fail in school and in life. You've got to hang experience o­n a latticework of models in your head.

What are the models?
Well, the first rule is that you've got to have multiple models because if you just have o­ne or two that you're using, the nature of human psychology is such that you'll torture reality so that it fits your models, or at least you'll think it does. You become the equivalent of a chiropractor who, of course, is the great boob in medicine.

It's like the old saying, "To the man with o­nly a hammer, every problem looks like a nail." And of course, that's the way the chiropractor goes about practicing medicine. But that's a perfectly disastrous way to think and a perfectly disastrous way to operate in the world. So you've got to have multiple models.

And the models have to come from multiple disciplines because all the wisdom of the world is not to be found in o­ne little academic department. That's why poetry professors, by and large, are so unwise in a worldly sense. They don't have enough models in their heads. So you've got to have models across a fair array of disciplines.

You may say, "My God, this is already getting way too tough. "But, fortunately, it isn't that tough because 80 or 90 important models will carry about 90% of the freight in making you a worldly wise person. And, of those, o­nly a mere handful really carry very heavy freight.

All That Glitters... How To Buy Jewelry

FTC writes:

Buying jewelry can be fun, exciting and confusing. Whether you're considering a gift of jewelry for someone special or as a treat for yourself, take some time to learn the terms used in the industry.

Here's some information to help you get the best quality jewelry for your money, whether you're shopping in a traditional brick and mortar store by catalog or online.

Gold
The word gold, used by itself, means all gold or 24 karat (24K) gold. Because 24K gold is soft, it's usually mixed with other metals to increase its hardness and durability. If a piece of jewelry is not 24 karat gold, the karat quality should accompany any claim that the item is gold.

The karat quality marking tells you what proportion of gold is mixed with the other metals. Fourteen karat (14K) jewelry contains 14 parts of gold, mixed in throughout with 10 parts of base metal. The higher the karat rating, the higher the proportion of gold in the piece of jewelry.

Most jewelry is marked with its karat quality, although marking is not required by law. Near the karat quality mark, you should see the name or the U.S. registered trademark of the company that will stand behind the mark. The trademark may be in the form of a name, symbol or initials. If you don't see a trademark accompanying a quality mark on a piece of jewelry, look for another piece.

Solid gold refers to an item made of any karat gold, if the inside of the item is not hollow. The proportion of gold in the piece of jewelry still is determined by the karat mark.

Jewelry can be plated with gold in a variety of ways. Gold plate refers to items that are either mechanically plated, electroplated, or plated by any other means with gold to a base metal. Eventually, gold plating wears away, but how soon will depend on how often the item is worn and how thick the plating is.

Gold-filled, gold overlay and rolled gold plate are terms used to describe jewelry that has a layer of at least 10 karat gold mechanically bonded to a base metal. If the jewelry is marked with one of these terms, the term or abbreviation should follow the karat quality of the gold used (for example, 14K Gold Overlay or 12K RGP). If the layer of karat gold is less than 1/20th of the total weight of the item, any marking must state the actual percentage of karat gold, such as 1/40 14K Gold Overlay.

Gold electroplate describes jewelry that has a layer (at least .175 microns thick) of a minimum of 10 karat gold deposited on a base metal by an electrolytic process. The terms gold flashed or gold washed describe products that have an extremely thin electroplating of gold (less than .175 microns thick). This will wear away more quickly than gold plate, gold-filled or gold electroplate.

Platinum, Silver and Other Metals
Platinum is a precious metal that costs more than gold. It usually is mixed with other similar metals, known as the platinum group metals: iridium, palladium, ruthenium, rhodium and osmium.

Different markings are used on platinum jewelry as compared with gold jewelry, based on the amount of pure platinum in the piece. The quality markings for platinum are based on parts per thousand. For example, the marking 900 Platinum means that 900 parts out of 1000 are pure platinum, or in other words, the item is 90% platinum and 10% other metals. The abbreviations for platinum - Plat. or Pt. - also can be used in marking jewelry.

Items that contain at least 950 parts per thousand pure platinum can be marked simply platinum. Items that have at least 850 parts per thousand pure platinum can be marked with the amount of pure platinum and the word platinum or an abbreviation (for example, 950 platinum, 900 Plat. or 850 Pt.). Jewelry that contains less than 850 parts per thousand pure platinum, but has a total of 950 parts per thousand of platinum group metals (of which at least 500 parts is pure platinum), may be marked with both the amount of pure platinum and the amount of the other platinum group metals in the piece. For example, the marking 600 Plat. 350 Irid. means that the item has 600 parts per thousand (60%) platinum, and 350 parts per thousand (35%) iridium, totaling 950 parts per thousand of platinum group metals, and 50 parts per thousand (5%) other metals.

The words silver or sterling silver describe a product that contains 92.5% silver. Silver products sometimes may be marked 925 which means that 925 parts per thousand are pure silver. Some jewelry may be described as silverplate: a layer of silver is bonded to a base metal. The mark coin silver is used for compounds that contain 90% silver. According to the law, quality-marked silver also must bear the name or a U.S. registered trademark of the company or person that will stand behind the mark.

Vermeil (ver-may), a special type of gold plated product, consists of a base of sterling silver that is coated or plated with gold.

Pewter items may be described and marked as such if they contain at least 90% tin.

Gemstones
Natural gemstones are found in nature. Laboratory-created stones, as the name implies, are made in a laboratory. These stones, which also are referred to as laboratory-grown, [name of manufacturer]-created, or synthetic, have essentially the same chemical, physical and visual properties as natural gemstones.

Laboratory- created stones do not have the rarity of naturally colored stones and they are less expensive than naturally mined stones. By contrast, imitation stones look like natural stones in appearance only, and may be glass, plastic, or less costly stones. Laboratory-created and imitation stones should be clearly identified as such.

Gemstones may be measured by weight, size, or both. The basic unit for weighing gemstones is the carat, which is equal to one-fifth (1/5th) of a gram. Carats are divided into 100 units, called points. For example, a half-carat gemstone would weigh .50 carats or 50 points. When gemstones are measured by dimensions, the size is expressed in millimeters (for example, 7x5 millimeters).

Gemstone treatments or enhancements refer to the way some gems are treated to improve their appearance or durability, or even change their color. Many gemstones are treated in some way. The effects of some treatments may lessen or change over time and some treated stones may require special care. Some enhancements also affect the value of a stone, when measured against a comparable untreated stone.
Jewelers should tell you whether the gemstone you're considering has been treated when: the treatment is not permanent; the treated stone requires special care; or the treatment significantly affects the value of the gemstone.

Some common treatments that you may be told about and their effects include:
- Heating can lighten, darken or change the color of some gems, or improve a gemstone's clarity.
- Irradiation can add more color to colored diamonds, certain other gemstones and pearls.
- Impregnating some gems with colorless oils, wax or resins makes a variety of imperfections less visible and can improve the gemstones' clarity and appearance.
- Fracture filling hides cracks or fractures in gems by injecting colorless plastic or glass into the cracks and improves the gemstones' appearance and durability.
- Diffusion treatment adds color to the surface of colorless gems; the center of the stone remains colorless.
- Dyeing adds color and improves color uniformity in some gemstones and pearls.
- Bleaching lightens and whitens some gems, including jade and pearls.

Diamonds
A diamond's value is based on four criteria: color, cut, clarity, and carat. The clarity and color of a diamond usually are graded. However, scales are not uniform: a clarity grade of "slightly included" may represent a different grade on one grading system versus another, depending on the terms used in the scale. Make sure you know how a particular scale and grade represent the color or clarity of the diamond you're considering. A diamond can be described as "flawless" only if it has no visible surface or internal imperfections when viewed under 10-power magnification by a skilled diamond grader.

As with other gems, diamond weight usually is stated in carats. Diamond weight may be described in decimal or fractional parts of a carat. If the weight is given in decimal parts of a carat, the figure should be accurate to the last decimal place. For example, ".30 carat" could represent a diamond that weighs between .295 - .304 carat. Some retailers describe diamond weight in fractions and use the fraction to represent a range of weights. For example, a diamond described as 1/2 carat could weigh between .47 - .54 carat. If diamond weight is stated as fractional parts of a carat, the retailer should disclose two things: that the weight is not exact, and the reasonable range of weight for each fraction or the weight tolerance being used.

Some diamonds may be treated to improve their appearance in similar ways as other gemstones. Since these treatments improve the clarity of the diamond, some jewelers refer to them as clarity enhancement. One type of treatment - fracture filling - conceals cracks in diamonds by filling them with a foreign substance. This filling may not be permanent and jewelers should tell you if the diamond you're considering has been fracture-filled.

Another treatment - lasering - involves the use of a laser beam to improve the appearance of diamonds that have black inclusions or spots. A laser beam is aimed at the inclusion. Acid is then forced through a tiny tunnel made by the laser beam to remove the inclusion. Lasering is permanent and a laser-drilled stone does not require special care.

While a laser-drilled diamond may appear as beautiful as a comparable untreated stone, it may not be as valuable. That's because an untreated stone of the same quality is rarer and therefore more valuable. Jewelers should tell you whether the diamond you're considering has been laser-drilled.

Imitation diamonds, such as cubic zirconia, resemble diamonds in appearance but are much less costly. Certain laboratory-created gemstones, such as lab-created moissanite, also resemble diamonds and may not be adequately detected by the instruments originally used to identify cubic zirconia. Ask your jeweler if he has the current testing equipment to distinguish between diamonds and other lab-created stones.

Pearls
Natural or real pearls are made by oysters and other mollusks. Cultured pearls also are grown by mollusks, but with human intervention; that is, an irritant introduced into the shells causes a pearl to grow. Imitation pearls are man-made with glass, plastic, or organic materials.

Because natural pearls are very rare, most pearls used in jewelry are either cultured or imitation pearls. Cultured pearls, because they are made by oysters or mollusks, usually are more expensive than imitation pearls. A cultured pearl's value is largely based on its size, usually stated in millimeters, and the quality of its nacre coating, which gives it luster. Jewelers should tell you if the pearls are cultured or imitation.

Some black, bronze, gold, purple, blue and orange pearls, whether natural or cultured, occur that way in nature; some, however, are dyed through various processes. Jewelers should tell you whether the colored pearls are naturally colored, dyed or irradiated.

A Jewelry Shopper’s Checklist
When you're in the market for a piece of jewelry for yourself or someone you love, shop around. Compare quality, price, and service. If you're not familiar with any jewelers in your area, ask family members, friends, and co-workers for recommendations.

You also should:
- Ask for the store's refund and return policy before you buy.
- Check for the appropriate markings on metal jewelry.
- Ask whether the pearls are natural, cultured, or imitation.
- Ask whether a gemstone is natural, laboratory-created, or imitation.
- Ask whether the gemstone has been treated. Is the change permanent? Is special care required?
- Make sure the jeweler writes on the sales receipt any information you relied on when making your purchase, such as the gem's weight or size. Some jewelers also may supply a grading report from a gemological laboratory.

In addition, these tips apply when you're shopping for jewelry online:
- Shop with companies you know or do some homework before buying to make sure a company is legitimate before doing business with it.
- Get the details about the product, as well as the merchant's refund and return policies, before you buy.
- Look for an address to write to or a phone number to call if you have a question, a problem or need help.

For More Information
If you have a problem with the jewelry you purchased, first try to resolve it with the jeweler. If you are dissatisfied with the response, contact your local Better Business Bureau or local consumer protection agency. You also may contact the Jewelers Vigilance Committee's Alternative Dispute Resolution Service. This program assists consumers and businesses in resolving disputes about jewelry. The Jewelers Vigilance Committee (JVC) is an independent, non-profit organization formed to advance ethical practices in the jewelry industry. You may contact the JVC by mail: 25 West 45th Street, Suite 400, New York, NY 10036-4902, or by phone: 212-997-2002.

More info @ http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/conline/pubs/products/jewelry.htm

Crown Jewels Of Iran

By V.B.Meen and A.D.Tushingham
University of Toronto Press
1968 ISBN 0-8020-1519-0

University of Toronto Press writes:

The most dazzling collection of gemstones and jewelry known in the world is the subject of this book and its 83-full color illustrations.

The Crown Jewels of Iran have been little more than a legend in the past. Travelers marveled at the splendor surrounding the shahs of ancient Persia; but few were permitted to examine it in any detail. Now the most spectacular objects have been placed on public display and form one of the country’s principal tourist attractions.

The authors have made the first scientific study of the treasures stored in Tehran. They report on a profusion of gemstone without match as a group in number, size or quality. The existence of many of the stones had been only rumored until their study; others were totally unknown to gemologists. The collection contains half the world’s known cut diamonds of more than 100 carats; scores of emeralds two inches or more in diameter; a gigantic 500-carat spinel; a unique assemblage of rubies.

The settings are no less remarkable—whether part of the Imperial Regalia, an item of jewelry, an object of dinnerware, or a royal toy.

Each of the objects illustrated is accompanied by gemological data. Each also is placed in historical context. The Crown Jewels were gathered by conquest, purchase and gift. Their story reflects the past of the nation, the society and the personalities for which they were fashioned.

About the authors
V.B.Meen was Chief Mineralogist of the Royal Ontario Museum, Toronto until his death in 1971.
A.D.Tushingham is Chief Archeologist of the Royal Ontario Museum and Professor of Near Eastern Studies in the University of Toronto.

Affluenza

Paul Majendie writes:

Rampant consumerism erodes us

Beware the Affluenza Virus. An epidemic of mindless consumerism is sweeping the world with the compulsive pursuit of money and possessions making people richer but sadder.

That is the stark warning issued by best-selling British psychologist Oliver James after a "mind tour" of seven countries chronicling how depression envelopes the affluent.

"We have become addicted to having rather than being and confusing our needs with our wants," he told Reuters in an interview to mark publication on Thursday of "Affluenza."

Globe-trotting from New York to Sydney, Singapore and Shanghai via Copenhagen, Moscow and Auckland, he concluded after interviewing 240 people that "selfish capitalism" has run riot. Bigger houses, more cars, larger televisions, younger faces -- these goals are frenetically pursued by middle-class workaholics afflicted by "Affluenza."

"Studies in lots of different nations show that if you place high value on those things, you are more likely to suffer depression, anxiety, addictions and personality disorders," he said. James concluded, "People in English-speaking nations are twice as likely to be mentally ill as people living in mainland western European nations."

Always wanting bigger and better is an emotional cul de sac, argues the 53-year-old psychologist, broadcaster and author. What makes "Affluenza" so readable and differentiates his eloquent polemic from the legion of self-help books that offer trite short-cuts to happiness are the potted biographies of the subjects he interviews.

Take New York.

Compare and contrast Sam, the miserable millionaire and sex-addicted atheist who treats women as commodities for fleeting satisfaction, with Chet the Nigerian taxi driver who is contented, optimistic, sexually faithful and religious.

James freely admits that interviewing the affluent in Sydney was a depressing job, calling it "the Dolly Parton of cities in Australia, the most vacuous." Singapore, where he found shopping to be the national obsession, suffered from "sad, unplayful deadness." Denmark was commendable, worthy but not exactly "a barrel of laughs." But not all was doom and gloom for the peripatetic psychologist.

He admired the Chinese for their "best is good enough" stoicism and said "I most liked the Muscovites as they still have an interest in the life of the mind."

James the optimistic believes the backlash has begun.

"We are at a turning point. My argument dovetails with the ecological argument -- we cannot carry on consuming in this manner and feel confident our great grandchildren have any future. This inevitably leads us to question consumerism."

"People are sick to the back teeth of this stuff. They don't want any more selfish capitalism."

More info @ http://news.yahoo.com/s/nm/20070125/hl_nm/rampant_consumerism_dc

The Federal Trade Commission’s Guide for the Jewelry, Precious Metals and Pewter Industries

FTC writes:

23.3 Misuse of the terms "hand-made," "hand-polished," etc.

(a) It is unfair or deceptive to represent, directly or by implication, that any industry product is hand-made or hand-wrought unless the entire shaping and forming of such product from raw materials and its finishing and decoration were accomplished by hand labor and manually-controlled methods which permit the maker to control and vary the construction, shape, design, and finish of each part of each individual product.

Note to paragraph (a): As used herein, "raw materials" include bulk sheet, strip, wire, and similar items that have not been cut, shaped, or formed into jewelry parts, semi-finished parts, or blanks.

(b) It is unfair or deceptive to represent, directly or by implication, that any industry product is hand-forged, hand-engraved, hand-finished, or hand-polished, or has been otherwise hand-processed, unless the operation described was accomplished by hand labor and manually-controlled methods which permit the maker to control and vary the type, amount, and effect of such operation on each part of each individual product.

More info @ http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/guides/jewel-gd.htm

Color Encyclopedia Of Gemstones

By Joel E Arem
Van Nostrand Reinhold Ltd
1977 ISBN 0-442-20333-0

Van Nostrand Reinhold writes:

This important new encyclopedia is a milestone in lapidary publishing. It is the first reference source to present data on every known species and varieties of gemstone. Furthermore, its rich selection of color photographs shows more species than have ever before appeared in one volume.

You can easily find the data you need to identify any gemstone. Alphabetical listing arranges gems according to mineral species. There is also a complete cross index of familiar gem names. Information on each gem includes chemical formula, crystal structure, colors, luster, hardness, density, cleavage, optics, spectral data, luminescence, and sizes. Over 220 mineral species are covered, and the color plates illustrate more than 185 of these—including all known color varieties of each species. For as many as 100 of the rarer species a color photograph appears for the first time in print.

Arem’s transparencies represent today’s most sophisticated techniques for gem photography. Resulting from his own three-year effort, they show the exact color of faceted gemstones while displaying to best advantage the cut and brilliance derived from the cutting. At the same time ‘hot spots’ or specular reflections from individual facets are avoided. The photos achieve naturalistic solidity and dimension, in many cases clearly revealing the degree of birefringence in a gem, as well as any inclusions.

Some of the data provided have never been published before, such as the dispersion values for 15 gem materials. These values are calculated from material scattered throughout mineralogical literature, and reworked to make them useful for gemologists.

Of practical interest to gem cutters is a special graph relating critical angle and refractive index. Other books list critical angles for various gems, but, because of the wide range in optical properties in certain gem species, these numbers are not always valid. The graph included here makes it possible to determine the exact critical angle to use for the specific material to be cut.

With growing interest in investment potential of gemstones, the lay public can also consult this versatile reference for information or photographs before making a decision to purchase. Collectors of gems, especially connoisseurs, will view the unique color plates of many exotic gem species with special pleasure.

About the author
Joel E Arem was awarded PhD in mineralogy at Harvard in 1970. His research specialties are crystal growth and X-ray crystal structure analysis. Dr Arem is the author of three previously published titles: Rocks and Minerals, Gems and Jewelry, and Man-made Crystals.

About Performance

An ounce of performance is worth pounds of promises.

- Mae West

The Federal Trade Commission’s Guide for the Jewelry, Precious Metals and Pewter Industries

FTC writes:

23.2 Misleading illustrations

It is unfair or deceptive to use, as part of any advertisement, packaging material, label, or other sales promotion matter, any visual representation, picture, televised or computer image, illustration, diagram, or other depiction which, either alone or in conjunction with any accompanying words or phrases, misrepresents the type, kind, grade, quality, quantity, metallic content, size, weight, cut, color, character, treatment, substance, durability, serviceability, origin, preparation, production, manufacture, distribution, or any other material aspect of an industry product.

Note to 23.2: An illustration or depiction of a diamond or other gemstone that portrays it in greater than its actual size may mislead consumers, unless a disclosure is made about the item's true size.

More info @ http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/guides/jewel-gd.htm

Color change gemstones

Most frequently seen color change gemstones.

- Chrysoberyl (alexandrite)
- Synthetic Chrysoberyl (synthetic alexandrite)
- Color change sapphire
- Synthetic color change sapphire
- Fluorite
- Pyrope / spessartite garnet
- Herderite
- Kyanite
- Monazite
- Spinel
- Synthetic spinel
- Toumaline
- Zultanite

Other color change gemstones

- Chameleon-type diamond (after heating color changes from orange yellow to green when exposed to light).
- Mood stone (quartz glass or plastic triplet containing a layer of liquid crystal which changes color with small changes in its temperature).

The RRUFF™ Project

The RRUFF project compiles high quality spectral data from characterized minerals worldwide with Raman Spectroscopy, X-ray Diffraction and Electron Microprobe.

Raman Spectroscopy compares their Raman spectral patterns to those from mineral samples that have been positively identified. X-ray Diffraction from powder and single crystal are used to identify and interpret the crystallographic characteristics unique to each mineral. Electron Microprobe analyses the chemical characteristics of each mineral.

The database may become a standard for gemologists, mineralogists and the general public for the identification of minerals. The database currently contains information on approximately 2000+ minerals with more added on regular basis.

The RRUFF™ project includes the research groups of Dr Robert T Downs (Geosciences, Arizona), Dr M Bonner Denton (Chemistry, Arizona), and Dr George R Rossman (Geological and Planetary Science, Caltech).

More info @ http://rruff.info

Treasures From The Kremlin

By The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York
1979 ISBN 0-87099-193-0

The Metropolitan Museum of Art writes:

The Kremlin in Moscow is one of the world’s greatest repositories of Russian art. Gold and silver objects of astounding beauty, arms and armor, icons, ceremonial equestrian trappings, textiles, and incomparable Russian needlework are preserved in the seven museums and churches that comprise the State Museums of the Moscow Kremlin. Magnificent objects from these, including masterworks of Western European art from the Kremlin collections, are pictured in Treasures from the Kremlin. More than two hundred illustrations, half of them reproduced in full color, reveal objects of extraordinary artistic excellence and historical significance ranging from the twelfth to the twentieth century.

Treasures from the Kremlin grew out of the great exhibition of Russian art at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. Six curators of the Kremlin museums offer engrossing and authoritative essays about their individual subjects.

Starting with such fabled medieval works as the twelfth-century silver gilt chalice of Yurii Dolgorukii, founder of Moscow, and the icon The Savior of the Fiery Eye, we move on to the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. During this period Moscow became the political, religious, and artistic center of Russia, and the decorative arts reached the height of their splendor. Within the walls of the Kremlin, the churches and palaces blazed with an incredible profusion of artworks. From the Armory, which was the private treasury of the czars, came masterworks of the goldsmith’s and armorer’s art. The damascened helmet of Ivan the Terrible’s son and the coat of mail worn by Boris Godunov are illustrated in this volume.

Here too are enameled saddles; silver bridle chains, flagons, and platters; exquisite gold liturgical vessels and pearl embroidered hangings from the Kremlin’s churches. The eighteenth and nineteenth centuries are also generously represented.

A brilliant closing note comes from the atelier of the peerless Carl Faberge—and early twentieth- century representation of the Kremlin itself, executed in gold and jewels.

A selected bibliography and an index of Russian names further enhance the scope of Treasures from the Kremlin.

New Technologies In Gemology

According to Emmanuel Fritsch of The Institute des Materiaux Jean Rouxel in France, gem identification may become user / consumer-friendly in terms of cost, availability and practical application with the following analytical techniques:

- Luminescence
- Laser Breakdown Spectroscopy (LIBS)
- Laser Ablation Inductively Coupled Plasma Mass Spectrometry (LA-ICP-MS)
- Energy Dispersive X-ray Fluorscence (EDXRF)
- Isotopic Analysis

The analytical techniques may be useful to map gemstone properties, country of origin, and also the specific mine.

About Men

I like a man who's good, but not too good--for the good die young, and I hate a dead one.

- Mae West

Gem Cutting

By John Sinkankas
A Lapidary’s Manual
Van Nostrand Reinhold Company
1984 ISBN 0-442-27630-3

Van Nostrand Reinhold Company writes:

What could be a more helpful tool for the lapidarist, beginner or expert, than this new edition of the gem cutter’s bible?

This expanded and updated volume thoroughly examines advances in the lapidary arts over the past twenty years. Recent discoveries of natural gemstones—some of them previously unknown in lapidary quality—plus the production of synthetic gemstones and the increased use of diamond abrasives and polishing agents are investigated in this classic guide to properties and treatments of gem materials.
This reference manual, packed with over 200 illustrations, continues to stress simplicity in equipment and technique. Gem cutting methods that have withstood the test of time are given with crystal clear instructions. Useful money-saving tips on how to make lapidary tools are included as well. Expert gemologist John Sinkankas provides valuable guidance on:

- gemstones—sawing, grinding, lapping, sanding, polishing, and drilling
- cabochons and how to cut them
- faceted gems—how to cut them and the equipment for cutting
- spheres and beads
- tumbling
- carving and engraving
- mosaic and inlay work

The last chapter provides a summary of many dozens of gem materials and how they may be successfully cut, the result of Sinkankas’s many years of hands on experience.

About the author
John Sinkankas is the author of the first two editions of Gem Cutting, published by Van Nostrand Reinhold, as well as many other books over 100 articles for popular and scientific journals.

The Federal Trade Commission’s Guide for the Jewelry, Precious Metals and Pewter Industries

FTC writes:

23.1 Deception (general)

It is unfair or deceptive to misrepresent the type, kind, grade, quality, quantity, metallic content, size, weight, cut, color, character, treatment, substance, durability, serviceability, origin, price, value, preparation, production, manufacture, distribution, or any other material aspect of an industry product.

Note 1 to 23.1: If, in the sale or offering for sale of an industry product, any representation is made as to the grade assigned the product, the identity of the grading system used should be disclosed.

Note 2 to 23.1: To prevent deception, any qualifications or disclosures, such as those described in the guides, should be sufficiently clear and prominent. Clarity of language, relative type size and proximity to the claim being qualified, and an absence of contrary claims that could undercut effectiveness, will maximize the likelihood that the qualifications and disclosures are appropriately clear and prominent.

More info @ http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/guides/jewel-gd.htm

Aventurescent Gemstones

Most frequently seen aventurescent gemstones

- Aventurine quartz (quartzite)
- Sunstone (oligoclase or labradorite feldspar)

Imitation aventurine gemstones

- Goldstone (man-made aventurine glass)

Investing In Antique Jewellery

By Richard Falkiner
Barrie & Rockliff
The Cresset Press
1968

The Cresset Press writes:

Until comparatively recently, many pieces of antique jewellery could be bought for token prices. Sadly, this is no longer true today. As with so many other types of antiques, the price of jewellery has risen dramatically, above all over the past decade. The basic reason for this is, of course, that in an era when traditional forms of currency have proved so vulnerable to economic depressions, first class antiques, acquired with care and knowledge have shown themselves to be outstanding investments.

In spite of the recent rise in prices, there is still a large amount of antique jewellery available to the intelligent collector with even a modest budget. Much of this jewellery was virtually ignored for many years and has only recently begun to be appreciated. For instance, paste jewellery was long regarded as of value almost exclusively for the melt down prices commanded by its silver mounts. Today, a fine piece of past is recognized for what it is—an object of intrinsic decorative worth which, nonetheless, can be acquired for a fraction of the price fetched by a comparable object set with gems.

While there have been several works on antique jewellery (although most of them are now out of print), this book deals for the first time with the subject as an investment. Mr Falkiner’s approach is chronological, providing a chapter by chapter outline of the history of jewellery from the very earliest times, and illustrating each chapter with a wide range of photographs of over 200 objects. Many of the pieces illustrated have absorbing historical connotations: the Alfred jewel, lost by Alfred the Great at the end of the 9th century when he was a fugitive in Athelney Marsh and not found again until the 17th century; a jewel found in the baggage of the ill-fated Charles I after the battle of Naseby; the memorial rings of Beau Brummel and George Washington. The detailed captions to the pictures comment on prices fetched in the past and indicate possible trends for the future.

In addition, there is a substantial technological section in which Mr Falkiner traces the etymology of many of the terms used in jewellery, and explains in layman’s language the concepts of the refractive index, specific gravity, the cutting of stones, etc. With its 16 pages of magnificent color plates, this superbly produced volume, directed primarily at the investor-collector, will be a welcome addition to the New Currency Series.

Business Management

Warren Edward Buffett, CEO, Berkshire Hathaway writes:

'When a management with a reputation for brilliance tackles a business with a poor reputation for fundamental economics, it is the reputation of the business that stays intact.'

The Federal Trade Commission’s Guide for the Jewelry, Precious Metals and Pewter Industries

FTC writes:

23.0 Scope and application

(a) These guides apply to jewelry industry products, which include, but are not limited to, the following: gemstones and their laboratory-created and imitation substitutes; natural and cultured pearls and their imitations; and metallic watch bands not permanently attached to watches.1 These guides also apply to articles, including optical frames, pens and pencils, flatware, and hollowware, fabricated from precious metals (gold, silver and platinum group metals), precious metal alloys, and their imitations. These guides also apply to all articles made from pewter. For the purposes of these guides, all articles covered by these guides are defined as "industry products."

(b) These guides apply to persons, partnerships, or corporations, at every level of the trade (including but not limited to manufacturers, suppliers, and retailers) engaged in the business of offering for sale, selling, or distributing industry products.

Note to paragraph (b): To prevent consumer deception, persons, partnerships, or corporations in the business of appraising, identifying, or grading industry products should utilize the terminology and standards set forth in the guides.

(c) These guides apply to claims and representations about industry products included in labeling, advertising, promotional materials, and all other forms of marketing, whether asserted directly or by implication, through words, symbols, emblems, logos, illustrations, depictions, product brand names, or through any other means.

More info @ http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/guides/jewel-gd.htm

Q & A: Conflict Diamonds

Guardian Unlimited writes:

All you need to know about the industry's efforts to shake off the blood-soaked image of stones extracted from the world's war zones.

Where do conflict diamonds come from?
These are stones extracted from rebel-held areas or in defiance of security council resolutions, and used to pay for weapons. The end of several African civil wars has left Ivory Coast as the world's prime source of conflict diamonds. A recent UN report found that rough diamonds were being smuggled out of the rebel-held north and certified for the international market by dealers in Ghana and Mali. The UN experts said that up to US$23m-worth was being smuggled out annually in a trade controlled by the rebel New Forces. Campaigners say this shows there are still crucial gaps in the diamond certification scheme known as the Kimberley process. "These are conflict diamonds, and some of them have gone to Ghana where they're stamped as conflict-free," said Nick Dearden, campaigns manager of Amnesty International.

Congo is another troublespot. Last month, the World Diamond Council, the industry body, said it had received reports of conflict diamonds being smuggled from Congo via Zimbabwe to South Africa where they were certified as legitimate and exported. Zimbabwe's government denies the allegations. Although Liberia's civil war is over, its diamonds are still subject to UN sanctions.

What is the scale of the problem?
Conflict diamonds, chiefly from Congo, Angola and Sierra Leone, made up between 4% and 15% of the global trade when those countries' wars were at their height in the late 1990s. The industry says that fewer than 1% of diamonds on the market now are from war zones. Gemstone revenue has the potential to heal as well as hurt, the industry says, pointing out that Sierra Leone has now been at peace since 2002 and its diamond industry generates $140m in tax and export revenue. But critics say 1% of a $60bn global market is still too much.

A total of 69 countries have now signed up to the Kimberley process, which was meant to stop diamonds being used to fund conflict. Governments have to keep records tracking diamonds from source to their polished form. In theory, this prevents conflict diamonds from entering the supply chain.

Is it ethical to buy diamonds?
Despite bad publicity, a big rock remains synonymous with romance. Retail diamond sales totalled £1.2bn in the UK in 2005, according to industry figures, and sales are rising. One US jeweller has sought to bypass human rights concerns by selling only Canadian diamonds. But both the industry and campaigners say this could hurt some of the world's poorest people.

In countries such as Botswana and South Africa, diamond revenues have paid for schools, roads and clinics. Instead of boycotting diamonds altogether, consumers are being urged to ask retailers whether their diamonds are conflict-free. Alex Yearsley of Global Witness, whose campaigns focus on the corrupt exploitation of natural resources, said: "Consumers have the power to effect industry-wide changes simply by demanding that their diamonds are clean."

More info @
http://www.guardian.co.uk/international/story/0,,1996072,00.html

Gemstones with asterism (stars)

Epiasterism = use reflected light
Diasterism = use transmitted light

Most frequently seen star gemstones

- Almandine garnet (4 / 6 / 12 rays: epiasterism / diasterism)
- Beryl (6 rays: epiasterism)
- Corundum (6 / 12 rays: epiasterism)
- Diopside (4 rays (epiasterism)
- Enstatite (4 / 8 rays: epiasterism)
- Moonstone (4 rays: epiasterism)
- Quartz (4 / 6 / 12 or more: diasterism / epiasterism)

Synthetic and imitation star stones

- Corundum doublet / triplet (6 rays: epiasterism)
- Synthetic corundum (6 rays: epiasterism)
- Inscribed base star (any: epiasterism)
- Opal triplet star (6 rays: epiasterism)
- Mirror-backed quartz (4 / 6 / 12 or more: epiasterism)
- Synthetic rutile (4 ray: epiasterism)