European Jewelry: Eighteenth And Nineteenth Centuries

(via 5000 Years of Gems and Jewelry) Frances Rogers and Alice Beard writes:

5. The Diamond Necklace

Unquestionably the most baleful jewel in all recorded history was that grandoise assemblage of precious stones known as ‘The Queen’s Diamond Necklace.’ The unhappy Marie Antoinette never owned, wore, or even saw the fateful jewel. As far as we can discover nobody ever wore it. Almost immediately after leaving the hands of the jewelers the necklace, as a unit, vanished—its diamonds were dug from their setting and scattered to travel their secret and devious ways toward the four corners of the earth. Perhaps you who read this page are wearing one of them now....Unless you are sure of the pedigree of a stone from the mine onward—who knows?—and gem, even though fresh from the jeweler’s shop, like as not has a lurid past.

The story of the famous necklace has provided endless material for history and fiction. Novels, plays and movies have used the theme ad infinitum. And in its many bearings on the lives of a whole nation the tale is too complex for retelling here. Enough to note the fact that a string of insensate gems stood for a symbol of the extravagance of Marie Antonoitte and thereby became a focussing point of hatred which rose like molten lava and overwhelmed France. Not that responsibility for the French Revolution can be laid on the innocent shoulders of a jewel, but undoubtedly the whole scandalous affair wielded a very appreciable power in exciting the blood lust of the mob.

As for the necklace itself, report goes that it was rather crude in workmanship despite its prodigious stones. Of course its short existence predated photography, and the best description is said to be that written by Thomas Carlyle, who naturally never saw it and could speak of the necklace only by virtue of research. His account has been deemed ‘quaint’ and certainly it is not limited to the aridly factual. He writes:

A row of seventeen glorious diamonds, as large almost as filberts, encircle, not too tightly, the neck, a first time. Looser, gracefully fastened thrice to these, a three-wreathed festoon, and pendants enough (simple pear-shaped, multiple star-shaped, or clustering amorphous) encircle it, unwreath it, a second time. Loosest of all, softly flowing round from behind, in priceless catenary, rush down two broad threefold rows; seem to knot themselves, round a very Queen of Diamonds, on the bosom; then rush on, again separated, as if there were length in plenty; the very tassels of them were a fortune for some men. And now lastly, two other inexpressible threefold rows, also with their tassels, will, when the Necklace is on and clasped, unite themselves behind into a doubly inexpressible six fold row; and so stream down, together or asunder, over the hind-neck—we may fancy, like lambent Zodiacal or Aurora-Borealis fire.

All these on a neck of snow slight-tinged with rose-bloom, and within it royal Life; amidst the blaze of lusters: in sylphish movements, espiègleries, coquetteries; and minuetmazes; with every movement a flash of star-rainbow colors, bright almost as the movements of the fair young soul it emblems! A glorious ornament; fit only for the Sultana of the World. Indeed, only attainable by such; for it is valued at 1,800,000 livres; say, in round numbers, and sterling money, between eighty and ninety thousand pounds.

European Jewelry: Eighteenth And Nineteenth Centuries (continued)