Foundations Of The Bridge: The Technicalities Of Gem Trading

Louis Kornitzer's book, Gem Trader, is partly autobiographical and partly woven round the lore of pearls. It's educational + explains the distribution chain of gems, as they pass from hand to hand, from miner to cutter, from merchant to millionaire, from courtesan to receiver of stolen goods, shaping human lives as they go + the unique characters in the industry.

(via Gem Trader) Louis Kornitzer writes:

A word or two to the possible customer is perhaps not amiss here. When you are buying a piece of jewelry, remember you are buying something for a lifetime and take your time over it. Make your purchase from a reputable jeweler and even then look at it as carefully as you know how, not only to make sure you are getting your money’s worth, but also to see you are getting what you really want. When you can, buy from a local jeweler. There are a number of reasons why you should do this. One is that you should patronize a neighbor when you can. If he has not got what you want in his window, he will go to some pains to get it for you, for the wholesalers will be only too glad to supply on approval a whole range of goods from which to select. Don’t be afraid of making a fuss. If you are a genuine buyer, you have a right to call the tune. Another reason why you should buy from a local man rather than from a great glittering store is the fact that you will pay less. It is you, the client, who pays for the electric lights, the pile carpets and the gentlemanly assistants who wash their hands with invisible soap.

When you are examining goods ask for a magnifying glass and insist on looking at them by the light of day and not by artificial light. Make sure that the stones are firmly set...then buy with a clear mind, and when you have bought, insure.

There is a right a wrong way of looking after jewelry. All pieces of jewelry, for instance, ought to be kept in a case by themselves in such a way that there is no chance of the stones rubbing against each other. Layers of cotton wool, placed at the bottom and between the various articles, will achieve this. Periodically make sure that the stones have not worked loose in their settings. This can be done by gently pressing a matchstick against the table of each stone. If the stone has become loose it will wobble, if ever so slightly, and it may be that a mere tightening up of one of the claws needs to be done to avoid a serious loss. Then again fine atmospheric dust, or soapsuds, or perspiration, or all together, may dim the luster of gems in their settings after a little while. Do not attempt to get rid of the accumulation by means of a toothpick or a pin. There is far better and safer way. Cover the bottom of a wineglass with a little industrial alcohol (unless you think the use of brandy or whisky no waste in such circumstances!), slide your set jewelry gently into the glass and leave it there for five or ten minutes. When you take them out, don’t wipe them with a cloth, but just waft them about until they are dry. All the dirt will have dissolved and your stones will shine as brightly as they did the day you bought them.

Oh, before I close, there’s one point about heirloom jewelry. There is no reason why heirlooms should not be remodelled and brought up-to-date. In fact, quite the contrary. The precious metal is there and so are the gems, and the cost of remodelling is small, provided you don’t specify designs that require further purchases of stones or metal. Many a heavy old piece of jewelry that looks like a cross between a candelabra and a miniature set of gold plate could be turned in a few days into an article showing dignity and good taste.

Good Books

Below is a collection of links to 'Best Books of 2007' list.
Financial Times
The Economist
NYT Sunday Book Review: 100 Notable
NYT Sunday Book Review: Top Ten
Publisher's Weekly
Amazon
Boston Globe
Washington Post
Sydney Morning Herald
Sunday Times

Heard On The Street

The happiest moment in a gem dealer's life is buying a gemstone and the second happiest moment is selling it.

8 1/2

8 1/2 (1963)
Directed by: Federico Fellini
Screenplay: Federico Fellini, Ennio Flaiano (story); Ennio Flaiano , Tullio Pinelli, Federico Fellini, Brunello Rondi
Cast: Marcello Mastroianni, Claudia Cardinale, Anouk Aimée

(via YouTube): Scene from Fellini's 8 ½
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YozQlhdu4QU

8 1/2 dream
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jmEqBdde5H0

Fellini 8 1/2 - Guido's Harem (the whole scene)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zZP8EmKSl48

Fellini 8½ Opening Scene
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XsAkWc7c8Mo

Federico Fellini is a gem + the comic frenzy of the characters in the film is so natural, I enjoyed it.

Emirates Airline

(via Knowledge@Wharton) Maurice Flanagan, who launched the global air giant in 1985 remains executive vice chairman, the Dubai-based Emirates continues to increase traffic and revenues + the reasons for Emirates' ascent + his own management style + other viewpoints @ http://knowledge.wharton.upenn.edu/article/1860.cfm

The Chiffre Cut (Dutch Schiffertje Or Schilde)

(via Diamond Cuts in Historic Jewelry:1381-1910) Herbert Tillander writes:

Various Gothic diamonds are documented as being ‘faceted’ without any further detail. Some of these must have been stones with flat bases and domed faceted tops. As always, the shape of the original crystal was large responsible for the shape into which the diamond was cut. A favorite cut was the Shield, for which the rough was probably a piece accidentally cleaved from a crystal such as rhombic dodecahedron or the trisoctahedrally developed face of an octahedron. The shapes of the crystal system to which diamonds belong have most of their octahedral faces slightly raised in curved triangular form and can easily be fashioned into Chiffres after an initial cleaving operation.

This type of three-faceted shield-shaped diamond has been known at least since the early fourteenth century, and is still occasionally produced today, though only in very small sizes. It is now termed the Chiffre Cut after the word ‘cipher’, the arithmetical symbol for nought. It is the least expensive type of cut—a rounded, flattish, triangular pyramid. The term Shield Cut is reserved for historical gems. William Jones illustrated a ‘decade-ring’, its head decorated all over with three and four facet Shield Cuts.

Arts 2007

(via The Guardian) The year's biggest names: their highs and lows + other viewpoints @ http://arts.guardian.co.uk/art/visualart/story/0,,2225582,00.html

Collecting In Cyberspace

Kelly Devine Thomas writes about online art market + the new consumer phenomenon + the discreet, unregulated, and highly fragmented art industry + other viewpoints @ http://www.artnewsonline.com/issues/article.asp?art_id=622