A very interesting story.
BBC News writes:
A cave home in Worcestershire complete with a front door, fireplace and pantry, has been sold for £100,000. Rock Cottage in Wolverley, which is hewn out of a sandstone cliff and has three adjoining caves, was last occupied in the late 1940s.
It was auctioned by Halls estate agency for four times its £25,000 guide price. The cave, which comes with windows, a sitting room and bedroom but has no electricity or water supply, generated more than 50 requests for viewings.
'Unbelievable interest'.
A near-neighbour bought the Sladd Lane property because she wanted it "to stay exactly how it is", auctioneer Roger Sadler said.
He added that people came from as far away as Spain to the auction on Wednesday. Mr Sadler said: "We are very pleased. You don't sell caves very often but it was a unique property that attracted an unbelievable amount of interest."
The cave, sold with five acres of mixed woodland and associated garden land, was auctioned off following the death of the current owner. Experts say it is questionable whether it would be suitable for human habitation.
More info @ http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/uk_news/england/hereford/worcs/6271564.stm
Discover P.J. Joseph's blog, your guide to colored gemstones, diamonds, watches, jewelry, art, design, luxury hotels, food, travel, and more. Based in South Asia, P.J. is a gemstone analyst, writer, and responsible foodie featured on Al Jazeera, BBC, CNN, and CNBC. Disclosure: All images are digitally created for educational and illustrative purposes. Portions of the blog were human-written and refined with AI to support educational goals.
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Friday, July 06, 2007
Gemmology On A Shoestring
2007: B W Anderson is one of the god fathers of gemology. His inspiring note (s) on how to identify stones with simple instruments + warning the gemologist (s) against an over dependence upon instruments + the need to use the power of observation (s) to the full + interpret what is seen in simple terms, is a friendly reminder to any enterprising gem dealer/jeweler.
Today we have new diamond simulants like synthetic cubic zirconia, synthetic moissanite and others + new synthetic corundums + new synthetic diamonds + new synthetic beryls + new, modified colored stone treatments to keep gem dealers/jewelers/gemologists/ lab gemologists busy/awake for the rest of their lives.
(via The Journal of Gemmology, Vol.10, No.3, July 1966) B W Anderson writes:
On several occasions I have given talks to post-diploma students under the title ‘Gem testing without instruments’, which I believe have been helpful in warning the student, fresh from his examinations, against an over-dependence upon instruments in his endeavors to identify gemstones. ‘Gemmology on a Shoestring’ is intended to follow much the same theme, but the title purposely suggests a little latitude in allowing for the use of quite simple pieces of apparatus, liquids, and so on, which can aid considerably in making firm decisions instead of merely forming opinions in certain cases.
First I must make it quite clear that to solve many of the problems that confront the gemologist in these days every available instrument may be valuable and necessary if a correct answer is to be ensured. My present intention is not so much to provide easy recipes for individual cases of identification as to persuade those who have gemological training to use their powers of observation to the full and interpret what is seen in the light of their special knowledge. It has often been said that the limited amount of scientific knowledge absorbed in the two year course can actually be a handicap to a young jeweler: into every yellow zircon he dreams a sphene, and in viewing a parcel of tourmalines his mind is cluttered with thoughts of kornerupine. There is enough truth in this to sting a little; but I strongly maintain that in a ‘lens only’ identification test on mixed series of gemstones, the man with a gemological training should be far more sure of his ground than a colleague of otherwise equal ability and experience. As any good artist knows, it is a fallacy to think that any two people of normal eyesight gazing at a given object are necessarily seeing the same thing. It is the interpretation of the image falling on the retina that may enable the artist to see a significant and exciting pattern of shapes, shadows and colors, where his friend may see nothing of any interest whatsoever. In like manner a jeweler who is not a gemologist, when confronted by a mounted and well-cut white zircon, may well feel that it ‘doesn’t look quite right’ for a diamond, but his gemologist friend, noting the strong double refraction in the stone, will be able to make a quite positive identification.
Sheer economic necessity may deprive the average young gemologist of the three really essential instruments for gem identification—the microscope, refractometer, and spectroscope. Ten years or so ago less than fifty pounds would have been required to but the lot: today one may have to pay at least twice as much as this. Indeed the simple liquids which will be recommended in this talk are now so costly that one must ruefully admit that even ‘shoestrings’ have become expensive. Against this one must realize that in the precious stone trade a mistake mean a loss of hundred of pounds or a damaged reputation, and the cost of any instrument which can save such mistakes, or a fee for a laboratory test, is money wisely spent.
To start with, I shall assume that the jeweler has only one ‘instrument’—a pocket lens, and proceed to consider what he can learn about gems with this as his only aid. A good lens is so vitally important that I do insist—make it a good one, magnifying eight or ten diameters. Lower powers are of comparatively little use, however suitable for the scrutiny of watches or hallmarks—while higher powers are difficult to handle and not nearly so flexible in their application.
In our first assessment of any gemstone we are all inevitably influenced in our thinking by its general appearance, which, when analyzed, depends chiefly upon its color, luster, degree of transparency, and ‘fire’. If the stone is unmounted, we may notice from our first ‘feel’ of it is cold or relatively warm to the touch, that it gives a slippery or harsh impression when handled, or that it strikes one as ‘heavy’ or ‘light’ in the hand. Then may follow close examination with a lens. The back facet edges may appear doubled, there may be characteristic inclusion, cleavage chips may appear on the girdle, and so on. All these phenomena may either be accurately measurable or more closely investigated with instruments: our task is to learn all that we can without them—even if later some form of instrument may have to be used as a final court of appeal.
Gemmology On A Shoestring (continued)
Today we have new diamond simulants like synthetic cubic zirconia, synthetic moissanite and others + new synthetic corundums + new synthetic diamonds + new synthetic beryls + new, modified colored stone treatments to keep gem dealers/jewelers/gemologists/ lab gemologists busy/awake for the rest of their lives.
(via The Journal of Gemmology, Vol.10, No.3, July 1966) B W Anderson writes:
On several occasions I have given talks to post-diploma students under the title ‘Gem testing without instruments’, which I believe have been helpful in warning the student, fresh from his examinations, against an over-dependence upon instruments in his endeavors to identify gemstones. ‘Gemmology on a Shoestring’ is intended to follow much the same theme, but the title purposely suggests a little latitude in allowing for the use of quite simple pieces of apparatus, liquids, and so on, which can aid considerably in making firm decisions instead of merely forming opinions in certain cases.
First I must make it quite clear that to solve many of the problems that confront the gemologist in these days every available instrument may be valuable and necessary if a correct answer is to be ensured. My present intention is not so much to provide easy recipes for individual cases of identification as to persuade those who have gemological training to use their powers of observation to the full and interpret what is seen in the light of their special knowledge. It has often been said that the limited amount of scientific knowledge absorbed in the two year course can actually be a handicap to a young jeweler: into every yellow zircon he dreams a sphene, and in viewing a parcel of tourmalines his mind is cluttered with thoughts of kornerupine. There is enough truth in this to sting a little; but I strongly maintain that in a ‘lens only’ identification test on mixed series of gemstones, the man with a gemological training should be far more sure of his ground than a colleague of otherwise equal ability and experience. As any good artist knows, it is a fallacy to think that any two people of normal eyesight gazing at a given object are necessarily seeing the same thing. It is the interpretation of the image falling on the retina that may enable the artist to see a significant and exciting pattern of shapes, shadows and colors, where his friend may see nothing of any interest whatsoever. In like manner a jeweler who is not a gemologist, when confronted by a mounted and well-cut white zircon, may well feel that it ‘doesn’t look quite right’ for a diamond, but his gemologist friend, noting the strong double refraction in the stone, will be able to make a quite positive identification.
Sheer economic necessity may deprive the average young gemologist of the three really essential instruments for gem identification—the microscope, refractometer, and spectroscope. Ten years or so ago less than fifty pounds would have been required to but the lot: today one may have to pay at least twice as much as this. Indeed the simple liquids which will be recommended in this talk are now so costly that one must ruefully admit that even ‘shoestrings’ have become expensive. Against this one must realize that in the precious stone trade a mistake mean a loss of hundred of pounds or a damaged reputation, and the cost of any instrument which can save such mistakes, or a fee for a laboratory test, is money wisely spent.
To start with, I shall assume that the jeweler has only one ‘instrument’—a pocket lens, and proceed to consider what he can learn about gems with this as his only aid. A good lens is so vitally important that I do insist—make it a good one, magnifying eight or ten diameters. Lower powers are of comparatively little use, however suitable for the scrutiny of watches or hallmarks—while higher powers are difficult to handle and not nearly so flexible in their application.
In our first assessment of any gemstone we are all inevitably influenced in our thinking by its general appearance, which, when analyzed, depends chiefly upon its color, luster, degree of transparency, and ‘fire’. If the stone is unmounted, we may notice from our first ‘feel’ of it is cold or relatively warm to the touch, that it gives a slippery or harsh impression when handled, or that it strikes one as ‘heavy’ or ‘light’ in the hand. Then may follow close examination with a lens. The back facet edges may appear doubled, there may be characteristic inclusion, cleavage chips may appear on the girdle, and so on. All these phenomena may either be accurately measurable or more closely investigated with instruments: our task is to learn all that we can without them—even if later some form of instrument may have to be used as a final court of appeal.
Gemmology On A Shoestring (continued)
Axinite
Chemistry: Complex calcium aluminum borosilicate
Crystal system: Triclinic; bladed, wedge-shaped crystals; lamellar masses
Color: Transparent to translucent; brown, more rarely yellow, violet, blue.
Hardness: 6.5 - 7
Cleavage: Perfect: in one direction; Fracture: brittle, conchoidal to uneven.
Specific gravity: 3.28 (3.27 – 3.29)
Refractive index: 1.675 – 1.685; Biaxial negative; 0.010 – 0.012
Luster: Greasy to vitreous
Dichroism: Strong; olive to strong green/violet blue; brown/yellow.
Occurrence: In areas of contact metamorphism; France, Mexico, USA, Sri Lanka, Pakistan.
Notes
Axinite is named after axe-like shape of crystals. The specimens may look like smoky quartz; piezo electric; no luminescence in gem quality specimens but may show in yellow as reddish glow; some show phosphorescence; spectrum: yellow—3 bands, 1 narrow in blue/green, 2 broaded in blue 512, 492, 466nm; faceted for collectors.
Crystal system: Triclinic; bladed, wedge-shaped crystals; lamellar masses
Color: Transparent to translucent; brown, more rarely yellow, violet, blue.
Hardness: 6.5 - 7
Cleavage: Perfect: in one direction; Fracture: brittle, conchoidal to uneven.
Specific gravity: 3.28 (3.27 – 3.29)
Refractive index: 1.675 – 1.685; Biaxial negative; 0.010 – 0.012
Luster: Greasy to vitreous
Dichroism: Strong; olive to strong green/violet blue; brown/yellow.
Occurrence: In areas of contact metamorphism; France, Mexico, USA, Sri Lanka, Pakistan.
Notes
Axinite is named after axe-like shape of crystals. The specimens may look like smoky quartz; piezo electric; no luminescence in gem quality specimens but may show in yellow as reddish glow; some show phosphorescence; spectrum: yellow—3 bands, 1 narrow in blue/green, 2 broaded in blue 512, 492, 466nm; faceted for collectors.
Thursday, July 05, 2007
What's New, Pussycat
Memorable quote (s) from the movie:
Dr. Fritz Fassbender (Peter Sellers): I am a doctor of the mind.
Victor Skakapopulis (Woody Allen): Really?
Dr. Fritz Fassbender (Peter Sellers): Yes!
Victor Skakapopulis (Woody Allen): I have terrible emotional problems. Could you help me?
Dr. Fritz Fassbender (Peter Sellers): You certainly picked a very odd time to ask me, just in the middle of a suicide.
Dr. Fritz Fassbender (Peter Sellers): I am a doctor of the mind.
Victor Skakapopulis (Woody Allen): Really?
Dr. Fritz Fassbender (Peter Sellers): Yes!
Victor Skakapopulis (Woody Allen): I have terrible emotional problems. Could you help me?
Dr. Fritz Fassbender (Peter Sellers): You certainly picked a very odd time to ask me, just in the middle of a suicide.
The Science Of Success
James Surowiecki writes about MediaPredict + the prediction market + the concept of tapping the collective intelligence of everyone playing the market + other viewpoints @ http://www.newyorker.com/talk/financial/2007/07/09/070709ta_talk_surowiecki
The Silence Of The Lambs
Chaim Even-Zohar writes about the Chairman of the Antwerp Diamond Bank + other viewpoints @ http://www.idexonline.com/portal_FullEditorial.asp?TextSearch=&KeyMatch=0&id=26308
Amblygonite
Chemistry: Fluophosphate of aluminum & lithium.
Crystal system: Triclinic; rarely well formed; large & rough; tabular habit.
Color: Transparent; yellow, colorless, gray, pale greenish purple.
Hardness: 6
Cleavage: Perfect: basal; Fracture: brittle, uneven.
Specific gravity: 3.015 – 3.033
Refractive index: 1.611-1.637; Biaxial positive; 0.026
Luster: Greasy to vitreous
Occurrence: In granite pegmatites. Brazil (Minas Gerais), USA (California), Namibia (purple), France, Sri Lanka, Australia (Northern Territory).
Notes
Looks like brazilianite, scapolite, pearly luster on cleavages; LW=weak greenish glow; faceted for collectors.
Crystal system: Triclinic; rarely well formed; large & rough; tabular habit.
Color: Transparent; yellow, colorless, gray, pale greenish purple.
Hardness: 6
Cleavage: Perfect: basal; Fracture: brittle, uneven.
Specific gravity: 3.015 – 3.033
Refractive index: 1.611-1.637; Biaxial positive; 0.026
Luster: Greasy to vitreous
Occurrence: In granite pegmatites. Brazil (Minas Gerais), USA (California), Namibia (purple), France, Sri Lanka, Australia (Northern Territory).
Notes
Looks like brazilianite, scapolite, pearly luster on cleavages; LW=weak greenish glow; faceted for collectors.
Promoting And Merchandising Colored Stones
(via Journal of Gemmology, Vol.XVII, No.3, July 1980) Jacques Sabbagh writes:
Birthstones of the month
Finally, one of the important topics of the display techniques is the birthstones. The belief in the occult power of birthstones seems to have originated from no less dignified source than the Biblical story of the jeweled breastplate. This was worn by Moses’ elder brother Aaron, the High Priest. Clad in vestments wrought with gold and blue, purple and scarlet, Aaron stands before the altar of God, bearing over his heart the jeweled breastplate whose twelve precious stones are each one dedicated to a tribe of Israel. They are mediums whereby God signifies his judgment of the tribes. If he is angry the stones turn dull and colorless, but, if the Israelites have obeyed his commandments the God makes them shine forth in glorious splendor of light and color. Later, according to Flavius Josephus in the late first century AD and St Jerome in the early fifth century, the twelve gems of the breastplate became linked in association with the twelve signs of the zodiac and the twelve months of the year. Each stone became related to a particular month and endowed with a particular virtue for those born in that particular month. The jeweler intent on developing his business in colored gemstones must not fail to draw great promotional dividends from such deep seated popular beliefs. He should permanently devote a determined section of his most exposed window, preferably a street window when there is one, to the special display of the stone of the month. After three or four months, he will condition the habitual passer-by to expect a change in this section at the beginning of each successive month. The expectancy in itself will act as a sight-arresting mechanism.
There are two ways of displaying the birthstone. One is the simple method of showing the rough crystals in the background and some loose gems interspersed among the mounted pieces—all consisting of the stone of the month. The other procedure is a rather elaborate one, whereby you propose each month to deliver to the public a sort of graphic lecture on gemology. It has the advantage of investing your establishment with a kind of academic aura; of heralding it as the gem headquarters of the vicinity, thus drawing a number of appraisal business and occasionally the good bargain of estate or second hand jewelry.
Slide 1
The calendar label is that of February. The birthstone of the month is Amethyst. This gem belongs to the quartz group so, in the central part of the rear of the window, you should show an agglomeration of quartz crystals, clearly labeled: ‘The Quartz Group.’ On the left side of the front part, occupying a respectable section of the window, you have a largish amethyst geode, quite a few loose amethysts and a good number of set pieces. A label placed nearby is boldly marked ‘The stone of the month—Amethyst’. To the right of the window and slightly backward, a citrine geode much smaller than that of the amethyst and three or four loose citrines with a label indicating ‘Citrine’, the other important member of the group.
Slide 2
The calendar label announced November. The stone of the month is Citrine. The layout is basically the same as in February with the centrally placed label and exhibit of the ‘Quartz Group’, except that in this month, Citrine is highlighted by the large citrine geode and quite a number of loose and mounted citrines, and its label indicates boldly that is the stone of the month. Amethyst, the other member of the group, is pushed back to a secondary plane and is represented by only a smaller geode and three or four loose amethysts.
Slide 3
The month is March. Aquamarine, the birthstone, dominates the picture. The suggested layout is a kind of genealogical tree. The trunk bears the label ‘The Beryl Group’, from which branch out the following members, each clearly labeled and represented in a background position by a small crystal and two or three loose gems—morganite (pink beryl), heliodor (golden beryl) and emerald; whereas aquamarine is stressed by the presence of a larger crystal and a good number of loose and mounted stones.
Slide 4
It is May and emerald is the birthstone of the month. A few roses in the window symbolize the season and contrast beautifully with the verdant green of the emerald. The scheme is basically the same as that of March, except that emerald has sprung to the forefront with a larger crystal on matrix and more loose and mounted emeralds; whereas aquamarine has receded back to join the rest of the supporting cast that stem from the ‘Beryl Group’ trunk.
The sales techniques
As we all know, one of the prominent features of our modern business world is the vast amount of literature and advice proffered by Chartered Accountants concerning tax shelters and methods of tax avoidance. By this, of course, I do not mean illegal practices of tax evasion. In the same vein, though in a different sphere, I now propose to sketch out a few practical points regarding sales induction without, however, infringing on the ethical considerations of consumer protection.
We are going to assume we have reached the stage of being equipped with an adequate inventory of colored gemstones and we have managed to create the desired interest in them. The points I am about to elucidate are of help to the salesman, whether in the store or on the road. These are:
The price ladder
Suppose a lady walks into the shop and ask for say, an aquamarine ring. Unless she asks specifically for a particular ring on display in your window, that is, if her enquiry is vague, it is always a good policy to start by showing her the least expensive of the aquamarine range in your stock. If she says ‘No’, I want something better’, climb up the price ladder very gradually until you sense you have reached her maximum purchasing capability and stop there! Do not go above this level, because you will be showing her a finer piece, but one which cannot afford and you may find you have lost a sale.
The forbidden expressions
As well all know, quite a number of the natural gemstones have inclusions. Emerald is a notorious example. Other examples are rubellite, ruby, sapphire with its silk, etc. and this common occurrence is tolerated the same way a cloud partially obstructing the sunshine is taken matter of factly. This phenomenon is to such degree accepted and sometimes even expected by the relatively knowledgeable consumer, that inclusions are, I am afraid, deliberately implanted in man-reconstituted stones—e.g the Gilson and Chatham emeralds. However, should a customer ask ‘What is this thing I see inside the stone?’, never describe it as a defect or an impurity or a flaw or an imperfection. These words should never be used; they are taboo. Use instead the expression ‘natural inclusion’ and expose the argument that these inclusions are a kind of authenticity certificate delivered by nature to this particular stone—the visible proof that it is a natural gemstone and not a man-made imitation.
Another danger may arise from a situation like this. Suppose you show a customer a topaz, or a diamond ring, and when you tell her the price, she exclaims: ‘Oh no! I cannot afford to pay that much.’ Do not snap: ‘Let me show something cheaper’. The terms ‘cheap’ and ‘cheaper’ should be crossed out of the salesman’s vocabulary, because of their unpleasant connotations and their negative effect on selling persuasiveness. Tell her instead: ‘Let me show you something less expensive, but of very good value.’ In the sanctum of your store and by the same token, in the course of door-to-door selling, the anodyne and sometimes enticing expressions ‘inexpensive’ and ‘low priced’ are to substitute the offensive adjectives ‘cheap’ and ‘cheaper’. Needless to add that the use of the downgrading expression ‘semi-precious’ should be at all cost avoided. Who wants to buy a half-anything? The more logical terms ‘precious stone’ or ‘gemstone’ are the ones more appropriate and more wisely to be employed.
Knowledgeability is vital
Know as much as you can about the commodity you want to sell, because you cannot sell what you do know much about. Once you have established your authority and impressed your customer, across the counter, with your knowledge about the item in transaction, half the battle will be won: you will find him or her less resistant to your arguments, more receptive to your advice.
The necessity of adequate knowledge applies also to the members of your sales force. A good practice is to set the routine of regular weekly meetings of the selling department. These should be kept as informal as possible and limited to 20-30 minutes. The purpose of these meetings is to expose that staff to the items carried in stock, or newly added to it and to exchange selling experiences of the elapsed week and also to comment on impromptu arguments that helped overcome some obstacles met within the course of a sale.
There are two ways I know to increase your knowledge about colored gemstones:
(a) The first is to be well read on the subject and to take up a gemology course, that is, if this has not yet been done. It is important to have at least one qualified gemologist on the staff.
(b) The second is to take what we may describe as a post-graduate crash course. I mean by this that at least, preferably several staff members should go to the sources and tap them for first hand information. Intelligence gathering and/or buying trips to various mining, gem cutting and jewel manufacturing centers should be organized and/or participated in, as frequently as possible. I know, for example, that in the hierarchically stratified Japanese market quite a few jewelry concerns in different levels of the distribution scale have been organizing for their various customers, and their customer’s customers, regular buying tours to production centers, sometimes as often as once a month. In this instance, these visits to the centers represent a good short, medium and long-term investment for the organizing enterprise, as well as for the participants who belong to the trade.
(i) As an immediate dividend the sales are more considerable since they are usually achieved out of a large stock. There is no clash of interest between supplier on the one hand and organizer or participants from the trade on the other. By prior mutual arrangement, the profits on sales made to the latters’ customers are silently computed into the quoted prices.
(ii) A medium-term benefit is the image boosting effect of word spreading around, concerning the direct contacts that the organizer, and, by the same token, the trade people among the participants, maintain with the producing centers.
(iii) An added bonus is material gathered by them in the course of these visits regarding information, slides and pictures which may be used for press releases, inserts and articles, and to illustrate public relations talks on various aspects of the jewelry industry.
(iv) Concerning the most important dividend of these gem safaris and study tours to the production centers, I can hardly urge you strongly enough to take part in them. Go to the source. Visit Brazil, Africa. Palpate with your own hands the bare facts concerning colored gemstones. Get familiar with the amount of work and expertise needed for the mining and cutting of these gems. Back home, you will find that the jewel you offer to the customer across the counter has suddenly acquired a deeper significance, has triggered off an avalanche of memories about rubbing shoulders with the extraction and faceting and polishing processes in the course of such trips. This will find immediate expression in irrepressible enthusiasm coloring your arguments and flowing spontaneously through your selling attitudes; and as everybody knows, sincere enthusiasm is frequently a contagious phenomenon similar to yawning, but conversely, with a positive energizing effect. You will thus find that, more often than not, your enthusiasm has been communicated to your customer with no conscious effort on your part.
To summarize the main points of this talk:
1. We have seen how colored gemstones constitute a dimension extending far beyond the dimension of diamonds.
2. We have found out the current continuous increases in the price of colored gemstones are a virtual one, over-reaching currency depreciation to realize a profit in real terms.
3. We have received various techniques in the display and selling of colored gemstones that effectively prevent this profit from stagnating on paper and help in converting it into a healthy cash flow.
Finally, I should like to add this. Take a general textbook of gemology, any textbook, and you will find that only one chapter or section deals with diamonds, whereas the rest of the book is devoted entirely to colored gemstones. This gives you a gauge as to the scope of the field and an idea of the extent of the potential. According to the old, ‘There is a pot of gold at the end of the rainbow’; by the pot of gold is meant wealth. In the light of what we have reviewed today, one may most emphatically asset that at the end of the rainbow, there is a pot of colorful, of enjoyable, of profitable gemstones.
Birthstones of the month
Finally, one of the important topics of the display techniques is the birthstones. The belief in the occult power of birthstones seems to have originated from no less dignified source than the Biblical story of the jeweled breastplate. This was worn by Moses’ elder brother Aaron, the High Priest. Clad in vestments wrought with gold and blue, purple and scarlet, Aaron stands before the altar of God, bearing over his heart the jeweled breastplate whose twelve precious stones are each one dedicated to a tribe of Israel. They are mediums whereby God signifies his judgment of the tribes. If he is angry the stones turn dull and colorless, but, if the Israelites have obeyed his commandments the God makes them shine forth in glorious splendor of light and color. Later, according to Flavius Josephus in the late first century AD and St Jerome in the early fifth century, the twelve gems of the breastplate became linked in association with the twelve signs of the zodiac and the twelve months of the year. Each stone became related to a particular month and endowed with a particular virtue for those born in that particular month. The jeweler intent on developing his business in colored gemstones must not fail to draw great promotional dividends from such deep seated popular beliefs. He should permanently devote a determined section of his most exposed window, preferably a street window when there is one, to the special display of the stone of the month. After three or four months, he will condition the habitual passer-by to expect a change in this section at the beginning of each successive month. The expectancy in itself will act as a sight-arresting mechanism.
There are two ways of displaying the birthstone. One is the simple method of showing the rough crystals in the background and some loose gems interspersed among the mounted pieces—all consisting of the stone of the month. The other procedure is a rather elaborate one, whereby you propose each month to deliver to the public a sort of graphic lecture on gemology. It has the advantage of investing your establishment with a kind of academic aura; of heralding it as the gem headquarters of the vicinity, thus drawing a number of appraisal business and occasionally the good bargain of estate or second hand jewelry.
Slide 1
The calendar label is that of February. The birthstone of the month is Amethyst. This gem belongs to the quartz group so, in the central part of the rear of the window, you should show an agglomeration of quartz crystals, clearly labeled: ‘The Quartz Group.’ On the left side of the front part, occupying a respectable section of the window, you have a largish amethyst geode, quite a few loose amethysts and a good number of set pieces. A label placed nearby is boldly marked ‘The stone of the month—Amethyst’. To the right of the window and slightly backward, a citrine geode much smaller than that of the amethyst and three or four loose citrines with a label indicating ‘Citrine’, the other important member of the group.
Slide 2
The calendar label announced November. The stone of the month is Citrine. The layout is basically the same as in February with the centrally placed label and exhibit of the ‘Quartz Group’, except that in this month, Citrine is highlighted by the large citrine geode and quite a number of loose and mounted citrines, and its label indicates boldly that is the stone of the month. Amethyst, the other member of the group, is pushed back to a secondary plane and is represented by only a smaller geode and three or four loose amethysts.
Slide 3
The month is March. Aquamarine, the birthstone, dominates the picture. The suggested layout is a kind of genealogical tree. The trunk bears the label ‘The Beryl Group’, from which branch out the following members, each clearly labeled and represented in a background position by a small crystal and two or three loose gems—morganite (pink beryl), heliodor (golden beryl) and emerald; whereas aquamarine is stressed by the presence of a larger crystal and a good number of loose and mounted stones.
Slide 4
It is May and emerald is the birthstone of the month. A few roses in the window symbolize the season and contrast beautifully with the verdant green of the emerald. The scheme is basically the same as that of March, except that emerald has sprung to the forefront with a larger crystal on matrix and more loose and mounted emeralds; whereas aquamarine has receded back to join the rest of the supporting cast that stem from the ‘Beryl Group’ trunk.
The sales techniques
As we all know, one of the prominent features of our modern business world is the vast amount of literature and advice proffered by Chartered Accountants concerning tax shelters and methods of tax avoidance. By this, of course, I do not mean illegal practices of tax evasion. In the same vein, though in a different sphere, I now propose to sketch out a few practical points regarding sales induction without, however, infringing on the ethical considerations of consumer protection.
We are going to assume we have reached the stage of being equipped with an adequate inventory of colored gemstones and we have managed to create the desired interest in them. The points I am about to elucidate are of help to the salesman, whether in the store or on the road. These are:
The price ladder
Suppose a lady walks into the shop and ask for say, an aquamarine ring. Unless she asks specifically for a particular ring on display in your window, that is, if her enquiry is vague, it is always a good policy to start by showing her the least expensive of the aquamarine range in your stock. If she says ‘No’, I want something better’, climb up the price ladder very gradually until you sense you have reached her maximum purchasing capability and stop there! Do not go above this level, because you will be showing her a finer piece, but one which cannot afford and you may find you have lost a sale.
The forbidden expressions
As well all know, quite a number of the natural gemstones have inclusions. Emerald is a notorious example. Other examples are rubellite, ruby, sapphire with its silk, etc. and this common occurrence is tolerated the same way a cloud partially obstructing the sunshine is taken matter of factly. This phenomenon is to such degree accepted and sometimes even expected by the relatively knowledgeable consumer, that inclusions are, I am afraid, deliberately implanted in man-reconstituted stones—e.g the Gilson and Chatham emeralds. However, should a customer ask ‘What is this thing I see inside the stone?’, never describe it as a defect or an impurity or a flaw or an imperfection. These words should never be used; they are taboo. Use instead the expression ‘natural inclusion’ and expose the argument that these inclusions are a kind of authenticity certificate delivered by nature to this particular stone—the visible proof that it is a natural gemstone and not a man-made imitation.
Another danger may arise from a situation like this. Suppose you show a customer a topaz, or a diamond ring, and when you tell her the price, she exclaims: ‘Oh no! I cannot afford to pay that much.’ Do not snap: ‘Let me show something cheaper’. The terms ‘cheap’ and ‘cheaper’ should be crossed out of the salesman’s vocabulary, because of their unpleasant connotations and their negative effect on selling persuasiveness. Tell her instead: ‘Let me show you something less expensive, but of very good value.’ In the sanctum of your store and by the same token, in the course of door-to-door selling, the anodyne and sometimes enticing expressions ‘inexpensive’ and ‘low priced’ are to substitute the offensive adjectives ‘cheap’ and ‘cheaper’. Needless to add that the use of the downgrading expression ‘semi-precious’ should be at all cost avoided. Who wants to buy a half-anything? The more logical terms ‘precious stone’ or ‘gemstone’ are the ones more appropriate and more wisely to be employed.
Knowledgeability is vital
Know as much as you can about the commodity you want to sell, because you cannot sell what you do know much about. Once you have established your authority and impressed your customer, across the counter, with your knowledge about the item in transaction, half the battle will be won: you will find him or her less resistant to your arguments, more receptive to your advice.
The necessity of adequate knowledge applies also to the members of your sales force. A good practice is to set the routine of regular weekly meetings of the selling department. These should be kept as informal as possible and limited to 20-30 minutes. The purpose of these meetings is to expose that staff to the items carried in stock, or newly added to it and to exchange selling experiences of the elapsed week and also to comment on impromptu arguments that helped overcome some obstacles met within the course of a sale.
There are two ways I know to increase your knowledge about colored gemstones:
(a) The first is to be well read on the subject and to take up a gemology course, that is, if this has not yet been done. It is important to have at least one qualified gemologist on the staff.
(b) The second is to take what we may describe as a post-graduate crash course. I mean by this that at least, preferably several staff members should go to the sources and tap them for first hand information. Intelligence gathering and/or buying trips to various mining, gem cutting and jewel manufacturing centers should be organized and/or participated in, as frequently as possible. I know, for example, that in the hierarchically stratified Japanese market quite a few jewelry concerns in different levels of the distribution scale have been organizing for their various customers, and their customer’s customers, regular buying tours to production centers, sometimes as often as once a month. In this instance, these visits to the centers represent a good short, medium and long-term investment for the organizing enterprise, as well as for the participants who belong to the trade.
(i) As an immediate dividend the sales are more considerable since they are usually achieved out of a large stock. There is no clash of interest between supplier on the one hand and organizer or participants from the trade on the other. By prior mutual arrangement, the profits on sales made to the latters’ customers are silently computed into the quoted prices.
(ii) A medium-term benefit is the image boosting effect of word spreading around, concerning the direct contacts that the organizer, and, by the same token, the trade people among the participants, maintain with the producing centers.
(iii) An added bonus is material gathered by them in the course of these visits regarding information, slides and pictures which may be used for press releases, inserts and articles, and to illustrate public relations talks on various aspects of the jewelry industry.
(iv) Concerning the most important dividend of these gem safaris and study tours to the production centers, I can hardly urge you strongly enough to take part in them. Go to the source. Visit Brazil, Africa. Palpate with your own hands the bare facts concerning colored gemstones. Get familiar with the amount of work and expertise needed for the mining and cutting of these gems. Back home, you will find that the jewel you offer to the customer across the counter has suddenly acquired a deeper significance, has triggered off an avalanche of memories about rubbing shoulders with the extraction and faceting and polishing processes in the course of such trips. This will find immediate expression in irrepressible enthusiasm coloring your arguments and flowing spontaneously through your selling attitudes; and as everybody knows, sincere enthusiasm is frequently a contagious phenomenon similar to yawning, but conversely, with a positive energizing effect. You will thus find that, more often than not, your enthusiasm has been communicated to your customer with no conscious effort on your part.
To summarize the main points of this talk:
1. We have seen how colored gemstones constitute a dimension extending far beyond the dimension of diamonds.
2. We have found out the current continuous increases in the price of colored gemstones are a virtual one, over-reaching currency depreciation to realize a profit in real terms.
3. We have received various techniques in the display and selling of colored gemstones that effectively prevent this profit from stagnating on paper and help in converting it into a healthy cash flow.
Finally, I should like to add this. Take a general textbook of gemology, any textbook, and you will find that only one chapter or section deals with diamonds, whereas the rest of the book is devoted entirely to colored gemstones. This gives you a gauge as to the scope of the field and an idea of the extent of the potential. According to the old, ‘There is a pot of gold at the end of the rainbow’; by the pot of gold is meant wealth. In the light of what we have reviewed today, one may most emphatically asset that at the end of the rainbow, there is a pot of colorful, of enjoyable, of profitable gemstones.
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