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Thursday, January 25, 2007

About Men

I like a man who's good, but not too good--for the good die young, and I hate a dead one.

- Mae West

Gem Cutting

By John Sinkankas
A Lapidary’s Manual
Van Nostrand Reinhold Company
1984 ISBN 0-442-27630-3

Van Nostrand Reinhold Company writes:

What could be a more helpful tool for the lapidarist, beginner or expert, than this new edition of the gem cutter’s bible?

This expanded and updated volume thoroughly examines advances in the lapidary arts over the past twenty years. Recent discoveries of natural gemstones—some of them previously unknown in lapidary quality—plus the production of synthetic gemstones and the increased use of diamond abrasives and polishing agents are investigated in this classic guide to properties and treatments of gem materials.
This reference manual, packed with over 200 illustrations, continues to stress simplicity in equipment and technique. Gem cutting methods that have withstood the test of time are given with crystal clear instructions. Useful money-saving tips on how to make lapidary tools are included as well. Expert gemologist John Sinkankas provides valuable guidance on:

- gemstones—sawing, grinding, lapping, sanding, polishing, and drilling
- cabochons and how to cut them
- faceted gems—how to cut them and the equipment for cutting
- spheres and beads
- tumbling
- carving and engraving
- mosaic and inlay work

The last chapter provides a summary of many dozens of gem materials and how they may be successfully cut, the result of Sinkankas’s many years of hands on experience.

About the author
John Sinkankas is the author of the first two editions of Gem Cutting, published by Van Nostrand Reinhold, as well as many other books over 100 articles for popular and scientific journals.

The Federal Trade Commission’s Guide for the Jewelry, Precious Metals and Pewter Industries

FTC writes:

23.1 Deception (general)

It is unfair or deceptive to misrepresent the type, kind, grade, quality, quantity, metallic content, size, weight, cut, color, character, treatment, substance, durability, serviceability, origin, price, value, preparation, production, manufacture, distribution, or any other material aspect of an industry product.

Note 1 to 23.1: If, in the sale or offering for sale of an industry product, any representation is made as to the grade assigned the product, the identity of the grading system used should be disclosed.

Note 2 to 23.1: To prevent deception, any qualifications or disclosures, such as those described in the guides, should be sufficiently clear and prominent. Clarity of language, relative type size and proximity to the claim being qualified, and an absence of contrary claims that could undercut effectiveness, will maximize the likelihood that the qualifications and disclosures are appropriately clear and prominent.

More info @ http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/guides/jewel-gd.htm

Aventurescent Gemstones

Most frequently seen aventurescent gemstones

- Aventurine quartz (quartzite)
- Sunstone (oligoclase or labradorite feldspar)

Imitation aventurine gemstones

- Goldstone (man-made aventurine glass)

Investing In Antique Jewellery

By Richard Falkiner
Barrie & Rockliff
The Cresset Press
1968

The Cresset Press writes:

Until comparatively recently, many pieces of antique jewellery could be bought for token prices. Sadly, this is no longer true today. As with so many other types of antiques, the price of jewellery has risen dramatically, above all over the past decade. The basic reason for this is, of course, that in an era when traditional forms of currency have proved so vulnerable to economic depressions, first class antiques, acquired with care and knowledge have shown themselves to be outstanding investments.

In spite of the recent rise in prices, there is still a large amount of antique jewellery available to the intelligent collector with even a modest budget. Much of this jewellery was virtually ignored for many years and has only recently begun to be appreciated. For instance, paste jewellery was long regarded as of value almost exclusively for the melt down prices commanded by its silver mounts. Today, a fine piece of past is recognized for what it is—an object of intrinsic decorative worth which, nonetheless, can be acquired for a fraction of the price fetched by a comparable object set with gems.

While there have been several works on antique jewellery (although most of them are now out of print), this book deals for the first time with the subject as an investment. Mr Falkiner’s approach is chronological, providing a chapter by chapter outline of the history of jewellery from the very earliest times, and illustrating each chapter with a wide range of photographs of over 200 objects. Many of the pieces illustrated have absorbing historical connotations: the Alfred jewel, lost by Alfred the Great at the end of the 9th century when he was a fugitive in Athelney Marsh and not found again until the 17th century; a jewel found in the baggage of the ill-fated Charles I after the battle of Naseby; the memorial rings of Beau Brummel and George Washington. The detailed captions to the pictures comment on prices fetched in the past and indicate possible trends for the future.

In addition, there is a substantial technological section in which Mr Falkiner traces the etymology of many of the terms used in jewellery, and explains in layman’s language the concepts of the refractive index, specific gravity, the cutting of stones, etc. With its 16 pages of magnificent color plates, this superbly produced volume, directed primarily at the investor-collector, will be a welcome addition to the New Currency Series.

Wednesday, January 24, 2007

Business Management

Warren Edward Buffett, CEO, Berkshire Hathaway writes:

'When a management with a reputation for brilliance tackles a business with a poor reputation for fundamental economics, it is the reputation of the business that stays intact.'

The Federal Trade Commission’s Guide for the Jewelry, Precious Metals and Pewter Industries

FTC writes:

23.0 Scope and application

(a) These guides apply to jewelry industry products, which include, but are not limited to, the following: gemstones and their laboratory-created and imitation substitutes; natural and cultured pearls and their imitations; and metallic watch bands not permanently attached to watches.1 These guides also apply to articles, including optical frames, pens and pencils, flatware, and hollowware, fabricated from precious metals (gold, silver and platinum group metals), precious metal alloys, and their imitations. These guides also apply to all articles made from pewter. For the purposes of these guides, all articles covered by these guides are defined as "industry products."

(b) These guides apply to persons, partnerships, or corporations, at every level of the trade (including but not limited to manufacturers, suppliers, and retailers) engaged in the business of offering for sale, selling, or distributing industry products.

Note to paragraph (b): To prevent consumer deception, persons, partnerships, or corporations in the business of appraising, identifying, or grading industry products should utilize the terminology and standards set forth in the guides.

(c) These guides apply to claims and representations about industry products included in labeling, advertising, promotional materials, and all other forms of marketing, whether asserted directly or by implication, through words, symbols, emblems, logos, illustrations, depictions, product brand names, or through any other means.

More info @ http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/guides/jewel-gd.htm

Q & A: Conflict Diamonds

Guardian Unlimited writes:

All you need to know about the industry's efforts to shake off the blood-soaked image of stones extracted from the world's war zones.

Where do conflict diamonds come from?
These are stones extracted from rebel-held areas or in defiance of security council resolutions, and used to pay for weapons. The end of several African civil wars has left Ivory Coast as the world's prime source of conflict diamonds. A recent UN report found that rough diamonds were being smuggled out of the rebel-held north and certified for the international market by dealers in Ghana and Mali. The UN experts said that up to US$23m-worth was being smuggled out annually in a trade controlled by the rebel New Forces. Campaigners say this shows there are still crucial gaps in the diamond certification scheme known as the Kimberley process. "These are conflict diamonds, and some of them have gone to Ghana where they're stamped as conflict-free," said Nick Dearden, campaigns manager of Amnesty International.

Congo is another troublespot. Last month, the World Diamond Council, the industry body, said it had received reports of conflict diamonds being smuggled from Congo via Zimbabwe to South Africa where they were certified as legitimate and exported. Zimbabwe's government denies the allegations. Although Liberia's civil war is over, its diamonds are still subject to UN sanctions.

What is the scale of the problem?
Conflict diamonds, chiefly from Congo, Angola and Sierra Leone, made up between 4% and 15% of the global trade when those countries' wars were at their height in the late 1990s. The industry says that fewer than 1% of diamonds on the market now are from war zones. Gemstone revenue has the potential to heal as well as hurt, the industry says, pointing out that Sierra Leone has now been at peace since 2002 and its diamond industry generates $140m in tax and export revenue. But critics say 1% of a $60bn global market is still too much.

A total of 69 countries have now signed up to the Kimberley process, which was meant to stop diamonds being used to fund conflict. Governments have to keep records tracking diamonds from source to their polished form. In theory, this prevents conflict diamonds from entering the supply chain.

Is it ethical to buy diamonds?
Despite bad publicity, a big rock remains synonymous with romance. Retail diamond sales totalled £1.2bn in the UK in 2005, according to industry figures, and sales are rising. One US jeweller has sought to bypass human rights concerns by selling only Canadian diamonds. But both the industry and campaigners say this could hurt some of the world's poorest people.

In countries such as Botswana and South Africa, diamond revenues have paid for schools, roads and clinics. Instead of boycotting diamonds altogether, consumers are being urged to ask retailers whether their diamonds are conflict-free. Alex Yearsley of Global Witness, whose campaigns focus on the corrupt exploitation of natural resources, said: "Consumers have the power to effect industry-wide changes simply by demanding that their diamonds are clean."

More info @
http://www.guardian.co.uk/international/story/0,,1996072,00.html