(via The Outline of Art) William Orpen writes:
4
The Norwich School owes its fame to two stars of the first magnitude, Crome and Cotman, and to a host of lesser luminaries. John Sell Cotman was fourteen years younger than Crome, and though also born at Norwich, on June 11, 1782, he did not, like Crome, acquire his art education in his native city. Cotman from the first was in a very different position. He was the son of well-to-do draper, received a good education at the Norwich Grammar Schook, and was intended to enter his father’s shop; but when his bent for art clearly declared itself his father was sensible enough to allow his son to make it his vocation and sent him to London.
Cotman remained in London from 1800 to 1806, and probably the most fruitful part of the education he received there was his association with the group of artists who frequented the house of Dr Thoman Monro, who has already been mentioned in this Outline as the friend of Turner adn Girtin. In Dr Monro’s house at 8 Adelphi Terrace, Cotman made the acquaintance of and worked with all the most brilliant young artists of the day, and in addition to the studies he made there under these stimulating circumstances he joined a sketching club which Girtin had founded.
To Girtin, who was not only an inspiring genius but also a most generous and affectionate friend, Cotman probably owed most at this stage of his career, and it must have been a great shock to him when Girtin died at the early age of twenty seven. After Girtin’s death in November 1802 London was not the same place to Cotman, and though as a young struggling artist he could hardly complain of want of success—for he had exhibited no fewer than thirty paintings at the Royal Academy between 1800 and 1806—he made up his mind to return to his native city.
In London Cotman had applied himself especially to architectural subjects, and it is possible that even in these early days he was influenced in this direction by the gifted West Country artist, Samuel Prout (1783-1852), who excelled in water colors of these subjects, and was living in London from 1802 to 1804; but when he returned to Norwich in 1806 or 1807, Cotman at first set himself up as a portrait painter. Gradually, however, under the influence of Crome—who was thirty nine when Cotman was twenty five—he devoted himself more and more to landscape. He became a member of the Norwich Society of Artists and was for a time its secretary.
Cotman was a prolific worker at this time, and to the Society’s exhibition in 1808 he contributed no fewer than sixty seven works. In 1809 he married, and soon afterwards removed to Yarmouth, where he added to his means by teaching and drawing as well as painting in oils and water colors and also etching. In 1811 he commenced a publication by subscription of his ‘Architectural Etchings’ and having made a number of topographical tours throughout the country, he published in 1816, his ‘Specimens of Norman and Gothic Architecture, Norfolk Churches,’ etc. He formed a useful association with Dawson Turner, the Norfolk antiquary, for whose antiquarian publications Cotman drew and etched the illustrations, and during the next three years (1817-19) he made annual expeditions into Normandy with this writer, whose Architectural Antiquities of Normandy, illustrated by Cotman, was published in 1822. All the time that he was engaged on drawings for these and other publications Cotman was exhibiting oil paintings and water colors both in Norwich and in London, but though several of these found purchasers the prices were so low that, notwithstanding his immense industry, Cotman could not have supported his wife and family if, in addition to all his other activities, he had not continued to give drawing lessons.
Natural Landscape (continued)
Monday, February 25, 2008
Gold Theft
We are seeing an increase in robberies of valuables, especially gold and artifacts from ancient temples in Asia, and few stolen goods are ever retrieved + the thieves resort to mundane tactics, such as replacing ancient artifacts with cheap objects (just like switching gemstones from natural to synthetic or imitation + you need a good eye to know the difference) + they are also using special chemicals to remove gold from statues + I think the theft could stem from rising gold prices + rising demand in the amulet market (s).
Sunday, February 24, 2008
Dumortierite + Sapphirine
Madagascar + Tanzania are well-known for a number of uncommon + rare minerals, but lately we are seeing more uncommon gem materials from Tunduru, Tanzania; Dumortierite, when transparent, is violetish gray/brownish pink + they are usually found in mine-run parcels (mixed lots); Sapphirine, when transparent, is gray/violet/red + they are commonly found in mine-run parcels (mixed lots) + both Dumortierite and Sapphirine, if found in alluvial sources look like water-worn pebbles and are often confused with mainstream colored stones + standard gemological tests may identify both specimens, if you have master-stone specimens for quick comparison, but if doubtful always consult a reputed gem testing laboratory.
Natural Landscape
(via The Outline of Art) William Orpen writes:
The Norwich School prospered exceedingly, more so than any other body of provincial artists has ever done in England, and their success was due not only to the excellence of their own work but also to the fact that they labored in a field well prepared to receive art. It will have been observed how many of the great English landscape painters belonged to the Eastern Countries—Gainsborough and Constable were both Suffolk men—and the extent to which the art of all them was influenced by the art of Holland. The explanation is to be found in the intimate trade relations which had existed for centuries between East Anglia and the Netherlands. Owing to this commercial intercourse numbers of Dutch and Flemish pictures found their way into East Anglia homes, and while London during the eighteenth century worshipped Italian art almost to the exclusion of all other, well-to-do people in Norfolk and Suffolk took a keener delight in thte homelier art of the Dutch and Flemish Schools. Thus at the very time that Constable was being neglected in London, John Crome was enjoying esteem and wide popularity in Norfolk.
It is true the Crome never made a fortune; to the end his lessons brought him in more money than his paintings, for any of which fifty pounds was a long and rarely attained price; but Crome did sell his pictures and in time became quite comfortably off. In 1801 he moved into a big house in Gildengate Street, he kept two horses, and managed before his death to acquire many good pictures and to form a library. Norwich was proud of her distinguished painter, and a special seat was always reserved for him in the parlor of the old inn in the market-place, where in his later years he was treated as an oracle, revered by all.
Under these circumstances we can understand why Crome continued to reside in his native Norwich and was never tempted to settle in London. In 1806 he exhibited for the first time at the Royal Academy, but between then and 1818 he only sent thirteen pictures in all to be exhibited there. He visited London occasionally, twice he went to Cumberland, in 1802 and 1806, once to Weymouth, and in 1814 he made a tour in France and Belgium, but his chief subjects were almost exclusively local. He was perfectly satisfied with the lanes, heaths, and river-banks surrounding Norwich, without wishing to journey further afield. In his great tree picture, ‘The Poringland Oak,’ he rivalled his own idol Hobbema; in ‘Moon Rise on the Yare,’ he surpassed the moonlight paintings of Van der Neer, by whom it was inspired; while masterpiece, ‘Mousehold Health,’ at the National Gallery, will always rank Crome amongst the grandest of landscape painters. Asked by his son why he had painted this last subject, Crome made the memorable reply: ‘For air and space.’
In addition to his oil paintings Crome executed a few water-colors and also a number of etchings. In 1834 a series of thirty-one of his etchings was published under the title of ‘Norfolk Picturesque Scenery.’
While out sketching in his fifty third year he caught a chill, and after a few days illness died on April 22, 1821. On the day before he died he addressed to his son the words so often quoted: ‘John, my boy, paint, but paint only for fame; and if your subject is only a pigsty, dignify it.’ The art of Old Crome is indeed a perpetual reminder that a masterpiece of painting is due far more to the treatment than to the subject, and nobody knew better than the Norwich master how to give dignity to the humblest subject by its stately presentation in a well-balanced composition.
Though his landscape art is limited in comparison with that of Turner and Constable, within his own self-imposed limits Crome is second to none. He did not set out, like Turner, to mirror the blazing glories of dawn and sunset, nor did he, like Constable, hold himself ready to paint Nature and weather in every aspect: Crome waited for the quieter moods of Nature in his own homeland, and he painted these to perfection.
Natural Landscape (continued)
The Norwich School prospered exceedingly, more so than any other body of provincial artists has ever done in England, and their success was due not only to the excellence of their own work but also to the fact that they labored in a field well prepared to receive art. It will have been observed how many of the great English landscape painters belonged to the Eastern Countries—Gainsborough and Constable were both Suffolk men—and the extent to which the art of all them was influenced by the art of Holland. The explanation is to be found in the intimate trade relations which had existed for centuries between East Anglia and the Netherlands. Owing to this commercial intercourse numbers of Dutch and Flemish pictures found their way into East Anglia homes, and while London during the eighteenth century worshipped Italian art almost to the exclusion of all other, well-to-do people in Norfolk and Suffolk took a keener delight in thte homelier art of the Dutch and Flemish Schools. Thus at the very time that Constable was being neglected in London, John Crome was enjoying esteem and wide popularity in Norfolk.
It is true the Crome never made a fortune; to the end his lessons brought him in more money than his paintings, for any of which fifty pounds was a long and rarely attained price; but Crome did sell his pictures and in time became quite comfortably off. In 1801 he moved into a big house in Gildengate Street, he kept two horses, and managed before his death to acquire many good pictures and to form a library. Norwich was proud of her distinguished painter, and a special seat was always reserved for him in the parlor of the old inn in the market-place, where in his later years he was treated as an oracle, revered by all.
Under these circumstances we can understand why Crome continued to reside in his native Norwich and was never tempted to settle in London. In 1806 he exhibited for the first time at the Royal Academy, but between then and 1818 he only sent thirteen pictures in all to be exhibited there. He visited London occasionally, twice he went to Cumberland, in 1802 and 1806, once to Weymouth, and in 1814 he made a tour in France and Belgium, but his chief subjects were almost exclusively local. He was perfectly satisfied with the lanes, heaths, and river-banks surrounding Norwich, without wishing to journey further afield. In his great tree picture, ‘The Poringland Oak,’ he rivalled his own idol Hobbema; in ‘Moon Rise on the Yare,’ he surpassed the moonlight paintings of Van der Neer, by whom it was inspired; while masterpiece, ‘Mousehold Health,’ at the National Gallery, will always rank Crome amongst the grandest of landscape painters. Asked by his son why he had painted this last subject, Crome made the memorable reply: ‘For air and space.’
In addition to his oil paintings Crome executed a few water-colors and also a number of etchings. In 1834 a series of thirty-one of his etchings was published under the title of ‘Norfolk Picturesque Scenery.’
While out sketching in his fifty third year he caught a chill, and after a few days illness died on April 22, 1821. On the day before he died he addressed to his son the words so often quoted: ‘John, my boy, paint, but paint only for fame; and if your subject is only a pigsty, dignify it.’ The art of Old Crome is indeed a perpetual reminder that a masterpiece of painting is due far more to the treatment than to the subject, and nobody knew better than the Norwich master how to give dignity to the humblest subject by its stately presentation in a well-balanced composition.
Though his landscape art is limited in comparison with that of Turner and Constable, within his own self-imposed limits Crome is second to none. He did not set out, like Turner, to mirror the blazing glories of dawn and sunset, nor did he, like Constable, hold himself ready to paint Nature and weather in every aspect: Crome waited for the quieter moods of Nature in his own homeland, and he painted these to perfection.
Natural Landscape (continued)
Keen Observation
To the best of my knowledge no one has highlighted the importance of education vs work experience in the diamond industry for a long time. I think Mordy Rapaport was spot on. It was educational + insightful.
Perspectives
(via Rapaport, Vol.31, No.5, February 1, 2008) Mordy Rapaport writes:
Education has always played an important role in business. Individuals’ job placement and overall success are many times based upon not only their workplace history but also their academic achievements. While I was signing up for business classes recently, I reflected on the study habits of my younger colleagues in the diamond industry.
The debate of education versus actual work experience has become prevalent in today’s fast-paced business environment. There seems to be a desire by individuals entering the workforce to obtain an increasingly higher level of education. Many younger individuals pursue multiple degrees, including MBAs and even PhDs, forgoing real work experience, and entering the business arena at an increasingly later stage of their lives.
The diamond business, however, differs from other industries in that there is a need for industry stakeholders to obtain the necessary knowledge of the product we continuously deal with. While business skills are direly needed, perhaps even more so than in other industries, they come second to an understanding of the product’s physical properties and the industry’s uniquely competitive environment. As a result, many very capable individuals opt out of pursuing a formal education and instead focus on the ongoing demands of their existing business and job priorities.
While both scenarios are understandable, I question whether either is the ideal route to be taken. Working in a vibrant environment with a hectic travel schedule and a large array of opportunities has forced me to consider the pros and cons of education and to prioritize my time accordingly. While gaining the general knowledge derived from the curriculum of today’s business schools is beneficial, I do not believe it to be the determining factor in whether to choose studies over hand-on-experience. Vast knowledge can be obtained from first hand experience in certain fields of work, more than can be relayed by a professor sitting in a classroom. On the other hand, limiting one’s expertise to a single commodity—which in the case of the diamond industry has immense volatility in terms of supply and demand—can be equally shortsighted. While the diamond industry provides a source of revenue for many, the ability to venture out into alternative business propositions should not be discarded.
What is needed is a middle ground. Many Indian acquaintances of mine have been able to capture the positive aspects of both worlds. Beginning work in the diamond trade at a young age, many leave India to pursue studies in some of the finest European and North American institutions. Their decision to step outside of their social circles and attend universities abroad adds immensely to their business sense and capabilities.
So while many younger individuals in our industry have previously not pursued studies in the broad range of business topics available, I believe it is crucial to obtain knowledge that will enable us to position ourselves for success. Many avenues, such as the GIA School of Business, are now available. Previously forced to choose between studies and work, today those within our trade interested in combining the two can select from multiple opportunities. While earning a bachelor’s degree does not determines one’s capabilities, it is certainly something beneficial to possess. Many outside factors not within our control affect the diamond trade today. A person’s ability to understand and counter any such effects will ultimately determine long term success.
Perspectives
(via Rapaport, Vol.31, No.5, February 1, 2008) Mordy Rapaport writes:
Education has always played an important role in business. Individuals’ job placement and overall success are many times based upon not only their workplace history but also their academic achievements. While I was signing up for business classes recently, I reflected on the study habits of my younger colleagues in the diamond industry.
The debate of education versus actual work experience has become prevalent in today’s fast-paced business environment. There seems to be a desire by individuals entering the workforce to obtain an increasingly higher level of education. Many younger individuals pursue multiple degrees, including MBAs and even PhDs, forgoing real work experience, and entering the business arena at an increasingly later stage of their lives.
The diamond business, however, differs from other industries in that there is a need for industry stakeholders to obtain the necessary knowledge of the product we continuously deal with. While business skills are direly needed, perhaps even more so than in other industries, they come second to an understanding of the product’s physical properties and the industry’s uniquely competitive environment. As a result, many very capable individuals opt out of pursuing a formal education and instead focus on the ongoing demands of their existing business and job priorities.
While both scenarios are understandable, I question whether either is the ideal route to be taken. Working in a vibrant environment with a hectic travel schedule and a large array of opportunities has forced me to consider the pros and cons of education and to prioritize my time accordingly. While gaining the general knowledge derived from the curriculum of today’s business schools is beneficial, I do not believe it to be the determining factor in whether to choose studies over hand-on-experience. Vast knowledge can be obtained from first hand experience in certain fields of work, more than can be relayed by a professor sitting in a classroom. On the other hand, limiting one’s expertise to a single commodity—which in the case of the diamond industry has immense volatility in terms of supply and demand—can be equally shortsighted. While the diamond industry provides a source of revenue for many, the ability to venture out into alternative business propositions should not be discarded.
What is needed is a middle ground. Many Indian acquaintances of mine have been able to capture the positive aspects of both worlds. Beginning work in the diamond trade at a young age, many leave India to pursue studies in some of the finest European and North American institutions. Their decision to step outside of their social circles and attend universities abroad adds immensely to their business sense and capabilities.
So while many younger individuals in our industry have previously not pursued studies in the broad range of business topics available, I believe it is crucial to obtain knowledge that will enable us to position ourselves for success. Many avenues, such as the GIA School of Business, are now available. Previously forced to choose between studies and work, today those within our trade interested in combining the two can select from multiple opportunities. While earning a bachelor’s degree does not determines one’s capabilities, it is certainly something beneficial to possess. Many outside factors not within our control affect the diamond trade today. A person’s ability to understand and counter any such effects will ultimately determine long term success.
Fragrance Ingredient Research
'There are no new colors to see and very few new sounds, but we are actually creating new, unique smells no one has ever smelled before.'
- Ned Polan
Vice President
Fragrance Ingredient Research
International Flavors & Fragrances
www.iff.com
- Ned Polan
Vice President
Fragrance Ingredient Research
International Flavors & Fragrances
www.iff.com
The Shield Cut
(via Diamond Cuts in Historic Jewelry:1381-1910) Herbert Tillander writes:
Inventories of the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries describe triangular diamonds in different ways—for instance, as en demies losanges, plats à 3 quarrés, plats aux 2 costez fais à 3 quarrés, and couchiés. Most descriptions, however, include the word écu (French, from the Latin scutum, meaning a shield)—‘en guise ďun escu’, ‘en façon ďescusson’, etc. I have included all historical triangular cuts under this one heading (even those entries which represent triangular Table Cuts and Mirror Cuts), because for centuries the shield played such an important role in warfare and heraldry, and the shape of the stone took precedence over the cut. Modern triangular diamonds are described, according to the cut, as Brilliants or Step Cuts, and only as Shields if the sides are rounded.
A cleavage of an octahedral crystal (a ‘was’) displays one side with a dominating triangular face (one of the octahedral faces). It looks like a Pyramidal Point Cut, deeply buried, with only one of its faces, and small areas of the surrounding faces, exposed. This is described in French as couchié and in German as liegender.
The most important known historical jewel containing large Shield Cuts was owned by Charles the Bold, Duke of Burgundy. On his ‘Feather’, in addition to five large spinels, a Burgundian Point Cut and a Table Cut diamond weighing 7-8 ct, there were two Shields, each about 12 mm in diameter and weighing about 6 ct. They were described in 1504 as ‘zwen demant schilt mit dryen anhangenden eggkenden falsetten, gutt wasser, wigt yeglicher ungeverlich kratj sechse’. Perhaps the oldest surviving examples of Table and Table Cut Shields are to be found on the Burgundian Court Goblet, dating from the middle of the fifteenth century.
Inventories of the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries describe triangular diamonds in different ways—for instance, as en demies losanges, plats à 3 quarrés, plats aux 2 costez fais à 3 quarrés, and couchiés. Most descriptions, however, include the word écu (French, from the Latin scutum, meaning a shield)—‘en guise ďun escu’, ‘en façon ďescusson’, etc. I have included all historical triangular cuts under this one heading (even those entries which represent triangular Table Cuts and Mirror Cuts), because for centuries the shield played such an important role in warfare and heraldry, and the shape of the stone took precedence over the cut. Modern triangular diamonds are described, according to the cut, as Brilliants or Step Cuts, and only as Shields if the sides are rounded.
A cleavage of an octahedral crystal (a ‘was’) displays one side with a dominating triangular face (one of the octahedral faces). It looks like a Pyramidal Point Cut, deeply buried, with only one of its faces, and small areas of the surrounding faces, exposed. This is described in French as couchié and in German as liegender.
The most important known historical jewel containing large Shield Cuts was owned by Charles the Bold, Duke of Burgundy. On his ‘Feather’, in addition to five large spinels, a Burgundian Point Cut and a Table Cut diamond weighing 7-8 ct, there were two Shields, each about 12 mm in diameter and weighing about 6 ct. They were described in 1504 as ‘zwen demant schilt mit dryen anhangenden eggkenden falsetten, gutt wasser, wigt yeglicher ungeverlich kratj sechse’. Perhaps the oldest surviving examples of Table and Table Cut Shields are to be found on the Burgundian Court Goblet, dating from the middle of the fifteenth century.
European Jewelry: Eighteenth And Nineteenth Centuries
(via 5000 Years of Gems and Jewelry) Frances Rogers and Alice Beard writes:
2. Pinchbeck Settings
As the century advanced, England prospered and the general standard of living rose. Those who could not afford the luxury of fine gems could at least ape the fashions of the upper classes by wearing cheap jewelry. There were good imitation pearls; and in place of diamonds there was rock crystal, rose-cut or brilliant. ‘Bristol diamonds’ and ‘Cornish diamonds’ were rock crystal named respectively for the places where they were found. If you did not possess the desired number of jewels (genuine or counterfeit) to wear on some festive occasion, you hired them.
Inexpensive stones needed inexpensive settings, and this demand was met by a number of substitutes for gold. The most popular was an alloy of copper and zinc called ‘pinchbeck,’ after its inventor, Christopher Pinchbeck, a clock and watch maker of London.
Neither he nor his son Edward, who continued the business after his father’s death in 1732, appear to have offered their metal alloy as real gold; yet in the course of time the word ‘pinchbeck’ has come to be used in a derogatory sense to denote any cheap and fraudulent sham.
Pinchbeck gold was used for all sorts of jewelry, and for a time it would retain its yellow color without tarnishing. Frequently, however, it was given a wash of gold to prolong its brightness.
European Jewelry: Eighteenth And Nineteenth Centuries (continued)
2. Pinchbeck Settings
As the century advanced, England prospered and the general standard of living rose. Those who could not afford the luxury of fine gems could at least ape the fashions of the upper classes by wearing cheap jewelry. There were good imitation pearls; and in place of diamonds there was rock crystal, rose-cut or brilliant. ‘Bristol diamonds’ and ‘Cornish diamonds’ were rock crystal named respectively for the places where they were found. If you did not possess the desired number of jewels (genuine or counterfeit) to wear on some festive occasion, you hired them.
Inexpensive stones needed inexpensive settings, and this demand was met by a number of substitutes for gold. The most popular was an alloy of copper and zinc called ‘pinchbeck,’ after its inventor, Christopher Pinchbeck, a clock and watch maker of London.
Neither he nor his son Edward, who continued the business after his father’s death in 1732, appear to have offered their metal alloy as real gold; yet in the course of time the word ‘pinchbeck’ has come to be used in a derogatory sense to denote any cheap and fraudulent sham.
Pinchbeck gold was used for all sorts of jewelry, and for a time it would retain its yellow color without tarnishing. Frequently, however, it was given a wash of gold to prolong its brightness.
European Jewelry: Eighteenth And Nineteenth Centuries (continued)
Saturday, February 23, 2008
Cai Guo-Qiang
If you are in New York, you should visit Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum where 80 works by Cai Guo-Qiang, known for his pyrotechnic displays and gunpowder drawings will be exhibited from February 22 through May 28, 2008 + they are stunning!
Useful links:
www.caiguoqiang.com
www.guggenheim.org
Useful links:
www.caiguoqiang.com
www.guggenheim.org
'Tanusorn'-type Blue Sapphire Treatment
Thailand is perceived as one of the important gemstone refineries of the world + and now comes a new type of blue sapphire treatment, 'Tanusorn' type blue sapphires: 'Tanusorn' is named after Tanusorn Lethaisong, the gem 'chef', where semi-translucent pale colored sapphires consisting of many cracks are exposed to high temperature heating technique (s) involving cobalt and lead containing flux + the resultant blue coloration is due to the inclusions of blue cobalt-bearing solid residues left along healed fractures + if in doubt always consult a reputed gem testing laboratory.
The Mind Of A Trader
The Mind Of A Trader by Alpesh Patel contains useful guidelines for beginners + many insights from the master of the market + I liked it.
Commodities Market
Edward de Bono, wrote in his book 'I am right, you are wrong': 'The stock market is meant to reflect the values of a corporation listed. But a more direct influence on the market price is the tendency of people to buy and sell. So if you attend to and anticipate the tendency of your colleagues you will successfully play the market. After a while it becomes a game in itself and the underlying corporate values fade into the background, even though they are periodically brought forward to rationalize behavior that has really been based on other factors.' He calls such kind of behaviour as ludecy from Latin 'ludo' meaning 'I play'.
Useful link:
www.edwarddebono.com
In my view without speculation traders don't stand to gain at all + if it's seen as a game commodities market is similar to stock markets + valuable lessons for the gem/jewelry/art traders.
Useful link:
www.edwarddebono.com
In my view without speculation traders don't stand to gain at all + if it's seen as a game commodities market is similar to stock markets + valuable lessons for the gem/jewelry/art traders.
Rent-A-Jewelry Concept
There's a huge trend globally where you can rent yachts and villas, high-end vacations + and now companies are renting out Rolex/Chopard watches and brand jewelry for a modest fee so that their clients are able to attend special/charity events and look good/famous + analysts say women always fall in love with jewelry and the concept may become the wave of the future + what a spinoff!
Useful links:
www.blingyourself.com
www.borrowedbling.com
Useful links:
www.blingyourself.com
www.borrowedbling.com
DDC On Arbitration And Term Limits
Chaim Even Zohar writes about The Diamond Dealers Club (DDC) leadership issues + other viewpoints @ http://www.idexonline.com/portal_FullEditorial.asp
The French Cut
(via Diamond Cuts in Historic Jewelry:1381-1910) Herbert Tillander writes:
Pavilion-based French Cuts were square multi-faceted diamonds. They date back to the early fifteenth century, and seem to have been favored by royalty and members of the nobility—Francis I of France, Elizabeth of Austria and the Duke of Buckingham among them—but they did not become fashionable until the seventeenth century, when brilliance was first of all merely accepted and finally became a requisite of all diamonds. The Taille en Seize and the Scissor Cut also came into fashion at this time.
The French Cut followed the existing fashion for square-shaped diamonds but did not derive from octahedral rough as did the High Table Cut. Although French Cuts were produced from other types of rough if this proved suitable or if the jeweler particularly requested it, the original design apparently came from a crystal form which combined cubic and dodecahedral faces. At least the early French Cuts derived from crystals of spheroid shape.
To fashion this type of rough, first the apex had to be ground down to make a square table with its sides set diagonally to the sides of the diamond. Then the main crystal faces were remodelled into facets and the outline squared. Finally, the pavilion was adjusted to a proper depth and given a plain faceting, often in the form of a narrow cross. Although the original reason for fashioning pavilion-based French Cuts was to transform obsolete cuts into something more fashionable, the faceting design has survived to the present day.
The origin of the term French Cut is not known; most probably it was so called because it was more popular in France than anywhere else. In old inventories it is simply described as ‘a Table Cut with a lozenge on top’. For instance, an inventory of 1570 describes a diamond on the border of a headdress belonging to Elizabeth of Austria as ‘ung dyaman taillé en lozange pardessus.’ Small French Cut diamonds have survived in unimportant jewels and trinkets.
Most Flat-Bottomed French Cuts appear to have been recuts of trihedrally faceted Gothic Roses, but the result was a misshapen gem with very poor light effects. Recutting was restricted to rather small diamonds, as we can see from the French Crown inventory of 1791. The apexes of the old, low relief Rose Cuts were ground down slightly, leaving small tri-angular table facets.
Early authors seem to have been unaware of the existence of the French Cut, nor is it discussed in modern literature, where it is frequently referred to simply as ‘a historical single cut.’
Pavilion-based French Cuts were square multi-faceted diamonds. They date back to the early fifteenth century, and seem to have been favored by royalty and members of the nobility—Francis I of France, Elizabeth of Austria and the Duke of Buckingham among them—but they did not become fashionable until the seventeenth century, when brilliance was first of all merely accepted and finally became a requisite of all diamonds. The Taille en Seize and the Scissor Cut also came into fashion at this time.
The French Cut followed the existing fashion for square-shaped diamonds but did not derive from octahedral rough as did the High Table Cut. Although French Cuts were produced from other types of rough if this proved suitable or if the jeweler particularly requested it, the original design apparently came from a crystal form which combined cubic and dodecahedral faces. At least the early French Cuts derived from crystals of spheroid shape.
To fashion this type of rough, first the apex had to be ground down to make a square table with its sides set diagonally to the sides of the diamond. Then the main crystal faces were remodelled into facets and the outline squared. Finally, the pavilion was adjusted to a proper depth and given a plain faceting, often in the form of a narrow cross. Although the original reason for fashioning pavilion-based French Cuts was to transform obsolete cuts into something more fashionable, the faceting design has survived to the present day.
The origin of the term French Cut is not known; most probably it was so called because it was more popular in France than anywhere else. In old inventories it is simply described as ‘a Table Cut with a lozenge on top’. For instance, an inventory of 1570 describes a diamond on the border of a headdress belonging to Elizabeth of Austria as ‘ung dyaman taillé en lozange pardessus.’ Small French Cut diamonds have survived in unimportant jewels and trinkets.
Most Flat-Bottomed French Cuts appear to have been recuts of trihedrally faceted Gothic Roses, but the result was a misshapen gem with very poor light effects. Recutting was restricted to rather small diamonds, as we can see from the French Crown inventory of 1791. The apexes of the old, low relief Rose Cuts were ground down slightly, leaving small tri-angular table facets.
Early authors seem to have been unaware of the existence of the French Cut, nor is it discussed in modern literature, where it is frequently referred to simply as ‘a historical single cut.’
European Jewelry: Eighteenth And Nineteenth Centuries
(via 5000 Years of Gems and Jewelry) Frances Rogers and Alice Beard writes:
1. Rococo
Long after the death of Louis XIV the ‘Grand Monarque style’ continued to influence the world of fashion, spreading into many other lands besides France.
Now there had been certain rules of proportion and composition of design drawn up by the purists of the Renaissance; nevertheless, when the jeweler broke a few of these mandates and introduced a carefree twirl of golden ribbons or a forbidden scallop there was undoubted charm in the result. But as time went on the propensity to ignore all fundamental rules of design increased, in some instances, to the point of absurdity. Scrolls, curlicues, ill-proportioned masses and gimcrack detail invaded many fields of art and craft besides that of jewelry. This fantastic style of design is known as rococo, and it lasted well into the eighteenth century, with reverberations in the nineteenth century.
Since the new method of faceting diamonds had centered interest in this gem, quantities of diamonds had reached England; these and other large stones were mounted by the goldsmith in rococo settings, while the artist in fine metalwork played only second fiddle.
Reversing the fable of the ugly duckling, the once charming fledgling known as rococo, grew into a lumpish and ungainly maturity during the next half century.
European Jewelry: Eighteenth And Nineteenth Centuries (continued)
1. Rococo
Long after the death of Louis XIV the ‘Grand Monarque style’ continued to influence the world of fashion, spreading into many other lands besides France.
Now there had been certain rules of proportion and composition of design drawn up by the purists of the Renaissance; nevertheless, when the jeweler broke a few of these mandates and introduced a carefree twirl of golden ribbons or a forbidden scallop there was undoubted charm in the result. But as time went on the propensity to ignore all fundamental rules of design increased, in some instances, to the point of absurdity. Scrolls, curlicues, ill-proportioned masses and gimcrack detail invaded many fields of art and craft besides that of jewelry. This fantastic style of design is known as rococo, and it lasted well into the eighteenth century, with reverberations in the nineteenth century.
Since the new method of faceting diamonds had centered interest in this gem, quantities of diamonds had reached England; these and other large stones were mounted by the goldsmith in rococo settings, while the artist in fine metalwork played only second fiddle.
Reversing the fable of the ugly duckling, the once charming fledgling known as rococo, grew into a lumpish and ungainly maturity during the next half century.
European Jewelry: Eighteenth And Nineteenth Centuries (continued)
Natural Landscape
(via The Outline of Art) William Orpen writes:
3
Another great landscape painter who during his lifetime never took the place in the world that his genius warranted was John Crome, frequently called ‘Old Crome,’ to distinguish him from his son, who also became a painter. Crome, who was born at Norwich on December 21, 1769, was the son of a poor weaver and began life as an errand boy, carrying bottles of medicine for a doctor, but when he was about fourteen or fifteen his love of art led him to apprentice himself to a house and sign painter. While following his trade during his apprenticeship, Crome took every opportunity of sketching the picturesque scenery which surrounds his native city. He was very, very poor, but he persevered and his perseverance gained him friends.
Chief among these friends was Mr Thomas Harvey, of Catton in Norfolk, who possessed a fine picture gallery and encouraged Crome to study and make copies of the pictures he had collected. Mr Harvey’s collection included landscapes by Richard Wilson—by whom Crome was greatly influenced—Gainsborough’s ‘Cottage Door,’ and many fine examples of the Dutch painters of the seventeenth century, notably Hobbema, for whose art Crome then conceived a passionate admiration which lasted all his life. Mr Harvey not only introduced Crome to other Norwich amateurs, but also obtained him some pupils to whom he taught drawing, though at this time the artist was only an awkward, uninformed country lad, whose deficiencies of education were to some extent compensated for by his great gifts and his natural shrewdness.
Meanwhile Crome had formed an intimate friendship with a lad of his own class, Robert Ladbrooke (1770-1842), then a printer’s apprentice, but also ambitious to become an artist. After living together for some two years, Crome and Ladbrooke married sisters, and abandoning their original trades they established themselves in partnership as artists, Ladbrooke painting portraits at five shillings apiece, and Crome selling his landscapes for what they would fetch—which was not always as much as five shillings! But for Crome’s practice as a drawing-master he could hardly have kept himself, let alone a family, in these early years, but gradually he acquired a local reputation and his landscapes found occasional purchasers, though at pitifully low prices.
In February 1803 Crome gathered round him the artists of his native city for their mutual improvement, and from this beginning arose the Norwich Society of Artists, founded in 1805. The Society held annual exhibitions to which Crome was a large contributor, for he rarely sent his pictures to London for exhibition and consequently was little known there. Crome’s pupils and associates, among whom the most distinguished were John Sell Cotman, James Stark (1794-1859), George Vincent, and his eldest son John Bernay Crome, formed what is known as the ‘Norwich School.’ The inspiration of this school was derived chiefly from Crome, but also from the Dutch painters by whom he was influenced.
Natural Landscape (continued)
3
Another great landscape painter who during his lifetime never took the place in the world that his genius warranted was John Crome, frequently called ‘Old Crome,’ to distinguish him from his son, who also became a painter. Crome, who was born at Norwich on December 21, 1769, was the son of a poor weaver and began life as an errand boy, carrying bottles of medicine for a doctor, but when he was about fourteen or fifteen his love of art led him to apprentice himself to a house and sign painter. While following his trade during his apprenticeship, Crome took every opportunity of sketching the picturesque scenery which surrounds his native city. He was very, very poor, but he persevered and his perseverance gained him friends.
Chief among these friends was Mr Thomas Harvey, of Catton in Norfolk, who possessed a fine picture gallery and encouraged Crome to study and make copies of the pictures he had collected. Mr Harvey’s collection included landscapes by Richard Wilson—by whom Crome was greatly influenced—Gainsborough’s ‘Cottage Door,’ and many fine examples of the Dutch painters of the seventeenth century, notably Hobbema, for whose art Crome then conceived a passionate admiration which lasted all his life. Mr Harvey not only introduced Crome to other Norwich amateurs, but also obtained him some pupils to whom he taught drawing, though at this time the artist was only an awkward, uninformed country lad, whose deficiencies of education were to some extent compensated for by his great gifts and his natural shrewdness.
Meanwhile Crome had formed an intimate friendship with a lad of his own class, Robert Ladbrooke (1770-1842), then a printer’s apprentice, but also ambitious to become an artist. After living together for some two years, Crome and Ladbrooke married sisters, and abandoning their original trades they established themselves in partnership as artists, Ladbrooke painting portraits at five shillings apiece, and Crome selling his landscapes for what they would fetch—which was not always as much as five shillings! But for Crome’s practice as a drawing-master he could hardly have kept himself, let alone a family, in these early years, but gradually he acquired a local reputation and his landscapes found occasional purchasers, though at pitifully low prices.
In February 1803 Crome gathered round him the artists of his native city for their mutual improvement, and from this beginning arose the Norwich Society of Artists, founded in 1805. The Society held annual exhibitions to which Crome was a large contributor, for he rarely sent his pictures to London for exhibition and consequently was little known there. Crome’s pupils and associates, among whom the most distinguished were John Sell Cotman, James Stark (1794-1859), George Vincent, and his eldest son John Bernay Crome, formed what is known as the ‘Norwich School.’ The inspiration of this school was derived chiefly from Crome, but also from the Dutch painters by whom he was influenced.
Natural Landscape (continued)
Perspective
Watches and jewelry are categories that you can hold back on. It's really a luxury in the sense of it's not a necessity whatsoever. And that's its vulnerability in more challenging times.
- Milton Pedraza, CEO, The Luxury Institute
www.luxuryinstitute.com
I think he is right + we are living in interesting times.
- Milton Pedraza, CEO, The Luxury Institute
www.luxuryinstitute.com
I think he is right + we are living in interesting times.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)