Frank D Wade’s ‘Finely Cut Diamond’

(via Diamond Cuts in Historic Jewelry:1381-1910) Herbert Tillander writes:

In his book of 1916 Wade illustrates what he considers to be ‘a well made diamond’:

Table size: 40%
Crown height: 20%
Girdle thickness: 2%
Pavilion depth: 40%
Culet size: 2%
Crown angle: 35°
Pavilion angle: 41°

This differs from Morse’s 79 ct Brilliant in its circular outline, somewhat deeper pavilion, and smaller culet, but Morse also modified his ideal in the course of time.

Wade suggested virtually the same angles as Tolkowsky was to propose in 1919, but the former favored more modern shapes for the pavilion facets and did away with the disturbingly visible culet that Tolkowsky retained. Tolkowsky, on the other hand, rejected Wade’s table facet which, he claimed, favored fire at the expense of brilliance. Wade’s book and his idea of an ideal cut were obviously known to Tolkowsky when he was preparing his Treatise for publication in 1919.