The Coxcomb Cut

(via Diamond Cuts in Historic Jewelry:1381-1910) Herbert Tillander writes:

A coxcomb (or cockscomb) is ‘a cap worn by a jester, like a cock’s comb in shape and color’ (Oxford English Dictionary), while Victor Gay’s Glossaire gives this defintion of the French creste: ‘ornament qui pose depuis les premières années du 13ème siècle sur le heaume (helmet), est plus connu sous le nom de cimier (souvent une aigrette de plumes)’. These two terms are used to describe a fancy type of gem cut which was already appearing in inventories in the early fifteenth century: in 1402 Duke Louis of Guyenne had ‘un rubis a crestè’. In 1420 Philip the Good had ‘ung bien gros dyament taillé en façon de creste de cog.’

It is quite evident what type of cut was meant, since it is easy to find such diamonds in various collections. However, it was not common. It was applied only when the rough was suitable and an appreciable amount of weight could be saved. Modern versions are called Multiple Step Cuts, Bent Top Cuts, or simply Bar Cuts. They are fashioned in a variety of outlines and with very varied pavilions.