Chequer Designs

(via Diamond Cuts in Historic Jewelry:1381-1910) Herbert Tillander writes:

I have seen several diamonds dating from around 1600, and even one or two from the middle of the sixteenth century, which have surfaces covered all over with very very small squares or lozenges, rather like the design of a chessboard. One of the main reasons for this type of faceting was that at that time, when light effects were not considered important, closely packed small facets could completely disguise even very disturbing inclusions in a gem. Many of these Chequer Cuts would otherwise have been fashioned into Table Cuts.

A number of Chequer Cuts were shaped like calves’ heads, though just as many had other outlines—square, oval, round, triangular, etc. On the whole, early inventories mention either faceting or outline, but very seldom both.