Jewelers Of Renaissance

(via 5000 Years of Gems and Jewelry) Frances Rogers and Alice Beard writes:

7. Enseignes

The little leaden saints or ‘tokens’ so extensively worn during the Middle Ages introduced a fashion that persisted through many years of the Renaissance. These emblems, not originally intended for ornament, were often pinned or sewed to the hat, from which conspicuous vantage point they indicated that the wearer had made pilgrimage to the shrine of some saint.

As times changed, the emblems as a whole took on secular, rather than purely religious, significance and the onetime token frankly developed into an adornment known as an enseigne or ‘medallion’. Almost everyone who had a hat saw to it that his headgear bore some kind of emblem. If a man were poor his hat ornament was made of one of the baser metals, copper or bronze. These could be turned out by the dozen, because instead of being handmade they were cast or stamped with a die.

Far different was the enseigne of the rich, termed te bijou par excellence. The goldsmith gave to this hat jewel his highest level of workmanship, his greatest ingenuity of design and his richest materials.

Now beyond a certain point, description of visual appearances is all too prone to leave the same impression as a frame without a picture. The ‘picture’ in this case was the meaning of the device. The typical enseigne of the period, apart from its character as an ornament, illustrates a certain phase of mental attitude.

The Renaissance was a riddle-loving age, an age of quip and quirk and antic disposition. Set conspicuously on the hat for all to see, these ‘toys of the imagination’ embodied this characteristic. They expressed some fancy, notion or idea peculiar to the wearer, but they expressed it indirectly, half revealing, half concealing the meaning. It was like trimming your hat with a rebus which gave the observer an opportunity to exercise his wits on solving the bejeweled puzzle. Rather a welcome pastime in dull company.

Jewelers Of Renaissance (continued)