European Jewelry: Eighteenth And Nineteenth Centuries

(via 5000 Years of Gems and Jewelry) Frances Rogers and Alice Beard writes:

6. The French Influence

The French Revolution, the four-year period of the Directoire, the accession of Napoleon, and the fact that the French painter, Jacques Louis David, won the Prix de Rome—all these events found varied reflection in the jewelry of the nineteenth century. Not that there was any startlingly new characteristic development in the technical craft of the jeweler, quite the contrary. But current events set the fashion, and during such unrestful times fashion changes rapidly; the craftsman is required to follow, not to lead it.

One marked change of custom that has persisted ever since, began at this time. Men ceased to wear an extravagant amount jewelry. Whereas they had in the past rivaled women in the splendor of their adornments, they now contented themselves with bunches of seals at the fobs, a ring or two and little else. Occasionally a fop would go so far as to wear earrings; if ridiculed for vanity, he had the excuse that piercing the ears and wearing earrings was a therapeutic measure. Earrings prevented eye diseases, a supersitition widely prevalent then and still existing among certain peasants today.

Since the middle of the preceding century the classic cameo and its imitations had been gaining favor; but now the fashions of ancient Greece and Rome came to a second blossoming that touched and colored many things besides jewelry. Architecture, furniture, and women’s clothes went pseudo-classic with a vengeance.

The painter, David, returning from his studies in Rome, brought back to France, and there succeeded in spreading, his own excessive enthusiasm for the classic. Despite the fact that the climate of France was not suited to scant attire in winter, fashionable ladies would bravely face the chill outdoors clad in clinging gown with very little in the way of undergarments. They went bare-headed and without shoes and stockings, wearing instead sandals that showed their toes, on which they wore jeweled rings.

Of course the type of jewel adjudged most appropriate with such a costume was the cameo or intaglio, particularly as the Empress Josephine had developed a veritable passion for these gems. She had even inveigled Napoleon into letting her have a number of cameos and intaglios which were a part of the gem collection in the Royal Library.

It had become the custom to have jewels made into parures—matching sets of necklace, brooch, and earrings; and in the form of a parure Josephine wore her antique gems.

Fortunately for us, David painted many portraits of famous ladies of the Empire Period, and lovingly portrayed the jewelry worn by them.

As a matter of fact the classic fashions of the early nineteenth century bore about the same relation to the ancient Greek styles as some of our old houses, with their fluted wooden pillars painted white in imitation of marble, bear to Greek temples. The derivation was manifest, but ‘improvements’ were added. The same thing happened to jewels: cameos, no longer in plain settings, were mounted with flashing gems and thus lost their simple severity. If genuine antique gems were too costly for the less wealthy, imitations were substituted.

Greek styles did not last very long. By 1830, they were out of date.

European Jewelry: Eighteenth And Nineteenth Centuries (continued)