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Saturday, January 19, 2008

Table Cuts

(via Diamond Cuts in Historic Jewelry:1381-1910) Herbert Tillander writes:

The classical Table Cut may be defined as a pavilion-based gem with a table facet and a culet. The standard form was originally quadrangular with four main facets in the crown and four in the pavilion. Other outlines were imposed if the shape of the rough was favorable. These were described as rounds, shields, hearts, half-moons, calf’s heads, windows, epaulettes, whistles, bullets, etc. They not only had different contours but also different numbers of main facets. Occasionally they also had additional non-standard faceting.

Certain cuts which are extensions of the classical Table Cut but are faceted according to a specific pattern—for instance, the Cuboid Cut, the French Cut, the Scissor Cut and even the Brilliant Cut—are dealt with under their separate headings. The old Table Cuts themselves are subdivided into three groups according to their different height proportions, which produce different light effects. These are the Full Table Cut, the Mirror Cut and the Tablet. Briefly, the first includes the full proportioned type with c.45°angles of inclination in both crown and pavilion; the second, stones with a flat crown and a very spread table facet, but a full pavilion; the third, exceptionally flat stones with both an outsized table facet and an outsized culet.

The first Table Cuts were produced from dodecahedrons (of which there was, more or less accidentally, an ample supply) but the cutters gradually developed satisfactory angles and proportions which were commercially profitable because they could be achieved with a smaller loss of weight than a low Point Cut. Besides retaining size they were more attractive in appearance. The cutters then discovered the proportions that would give the best light effects for each shape. The style of cut which featured one square within another became particularly popular, following the vogue for similar shapes in architecture and fashion.

Table Cuts (continued)

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