Art Nouveau Jewelry

By Vivienne Becker
Thames and Hudson Ltd
E P Dutton New York
1985 ISBN 0-525-24345-3

Thames and Hudson writes:

Jewelry was one of the purest, and most successful, expressions of the Art Nouveau movement. It captured the atmosphere and the passions of the fin de siecle, and the moral and artistic freedom which characterized the period. Fresh designs and motifs were created with intense excitement shared by artists all over the world. Sensuous and organic plant forms surged with new life; the female form struggled towards a new freedom, suggesting a long hidden eroticism; dragonflies and insects became creatures of beauty and fantasy; sunsets and changing seasons reflected the symbolic view of art in nature, borrowed from the Japanese. The artists and goldsmiths who created this jewelry were trained in the nineteenth century disciplines; their technical mastery allowed them to experiment with new materials and enamelling processes to indulge their fantasies. This combination—an atmosphere of ideas for a new art and the unrivalled technical skill of the makers—produced some of the most evocative jewelling art of modern times.

The book deals with major makers in France, and then follows the parallel modern movement that spread through Europe and the United States, acquiring different decorative characteristics, from England, Germany and Austria to Belgium, Scandinavia and Eastern Europe. For the collector, comprehensive biographies are included, drawing together for the first time full information on over 300 designers. The Guide to Identification, including over 200 maker’s marks and signatures, forms an invaluable aid to identifying and appreciating the jewelry. Each part of the book is illustrated by a series of dramatic color and black and white plates: the striking variety of the pieces shown, from the organic beauty of the work of Lalique to the simpler, more geometric Liberty designs, is clear evidence of the international scope and appeal of Art Nouveau jewelry.