Sunday, August 11, 2019

Random Thoughts

Shaun Tomson is a South African surfer who was the 1977 surfing world champion. Tomson absolutely ripped at Pipeline, giving Gerry Lopez and Rory Russell a run for their money. He is a very quiet, humble man who would charge the biggest, gnarliest waves and make it look easy. He helped make professional surfing a reality, whether that's a good thing or a bad thing is an exercise to the reader. Tomson assembled a code of collective wisdom to help surfers make it through the humdrum of life.

. I will never turn my back on the ocean.

. I will paddle around the impact zone.

. I will take the drop with commitment.

. I will never fight a rip tide.

. I will watch out for other surfers.

. There will always be another wave.

. I will always ride into shore.

. I will honor the sport of kings.

. I will pass along my stroke.

. I will catch a wave every day.

All surfers are connected by one ocean. Every one of Shaun's gems has a corollary that can be applied to life in general.

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