The Case Of The Nun’s Ruby

Louis Kornitzer's book, Gem Trader, is partly autobiographical and partly woven round the lore of pearls. It's educational + explains the distribution chain of gems, as they pass from hand to hand, from miner to cutter, from merchant to millionaire, from courtesan to receiver of stolen goods, shaping human lives as they go + the unique characters in the industry.

(via Gem Trader) Louis Kornitzer writes:

The De Maderos also experienced bad fortune above the average. They, in turn, during another revolutionary upheaval in 1908 (if there was indeed ‘bad luck’ in the stones it had taken, you see, a long time to descend upon the De Maderos, for Maximilian was executed in 1867), had to flee the country. They stowed away on an east bound liner. Their ship encountered a storm during which the Princess Charlotte’s rubies went down in the Chesapeake Bay, never presumably to rise again until the earth gives up its dead and the sea its treasures.

England’s great ruby, which has a place in the King’s state crown, has probably the longest European pedigree of all rubies, for it was a gift to the Black Prince from a King of Castile some hundred years ago. But the Black Prince’s ruby is after all only a spinel ruby, which, as has been said, is a thing of comparatively low degree.

Then there were the celebrated rubies of Queen Marie of Roumania, who died a little while ago. These gems came to her from her mother, a Russian Tsar’s daughter, and she in turn handed them onto her daughter, Princess Ileana, now Archduchess Anton of Hapsburg. She is reported to have said at the time that they would go better with Princess Ileana’s dark beauty than with her own English fairness, and in truth rubies are jewels that prefer brunettes.

Of great and noble rubies the tale is unending. Queen Mary has some exquisite rubies set in a brooch and pendant which she inherited under the will of the Countess Torby, wife of the Grand Duke Michael of Russia. These jewels had originally been chosen for the Empress Alexandra of Russia and are magnificent. There is a portrait of Queen Mary by David Jagger in which these jewels appear as the principal ornaments worn by the royal sitter.

Then there is the freak ruby said to be the most famous in the world because so much spiritual and religious significance has been attached to it by its owner and others. This is, or was, owned by a member of the Indian Legislative Council, and has deep within it, veiled by scarlet cloud, what appears to be the tiny image of a dark-skinned man robed in white and with his head swathed in a white turban.

But enough of individual rubies in the grand style. I have said enough to show what the world ancient and modern thinks of rubies. Indeed, there is a magnificence and color about a fine ruby that makes it peculiarly suited to the treasure chests of kings as well as extravagantly rich enough for the haversacks of romance.

There are other rubies, as I have said. I have mentioned the spinel ruby already. The balas ruby or rubicelle are just other names for spinel; but rubellite is the name frequently bestowed upon a wine-red tourmaline, which is a much softer stone and of rather complex chemical composition into which corundum enters. The finest rubellites come from the Ural mountains.

The New World has its ‘rubies’, too. A stone which occurs in Australia and which, because it is red, translucent and lustrous, is called by some native sons an Adelaide ruby, is really no more than an almandine garnet. The garnet is the Jack of all stones and in its time plays many parts in the credulous eye, for to the layman everything that is red is ruby, everything that is white, diamond, and so on, in spite of color being perhaps the least of identifying signs.

A Brazilian ruby, however, is no garnet. It is dark red topaz, whether its color is natural or has been brought about by application of heat. Part of the name is right, for the stone does, in fact, come from Brazil.

I remember not without sadness a conversation I had a few years ago in my office about rubies. There came to see an old friend, Jacob W., a well-known expert and dealer in precious stones, and we were meeting for the last time in ‘the Garden’, though neither of us knew it.

After some beating about the bush in a vain effort to provoke my curiosity, Jacob brought out above the level of my desk a good-sized ruby and said: ‘What price this?’

But I showed no eagerness to inspect, and although the stone appeared to be a fine one, expressed none of the admiration that at first sight I felt. For we dealers in gems never go into ecstasies over each other’s goods. A gem we have once praised overmuch may some day seek us out a potential buyer. Studied indifference is the safest policy, however fine the gem.
‘A good stone this, Jacob,’ I said without enthusiasm.
‘It is a good stone if I know one,’ he said grimly. ‘I’ve actually overdrawn my account to the tune of two thousand pounds without advising my bank. If I had not closed with the owner, I’d never have seen the stone again. And I had to have it.’
‘What do you want me to do?’ I said. ‘Lend you the money?’
‘No, I’d rather owe the bank than my best friend. I want to know what you think of it. Was I justified in putting myself into a hole over it?’
‘How can I tell until I know what you paid.’
‘Five thousand pounds,’ he said. ‘It’s a lot for an eight carat stone.’
‘I’ve not been handling first grade rubies much lately,’ said I. ‘But yours seems to be top-notcher, though too dear, in my opinion.’
Secretly I thought better of the stone than I let on, but when Jacob saw that I was not going to give myself away, he pocketed the stone and we drifted into a general talk on rubies.
‘What a vogue they are having,’ said Jacob. ‘Burma rubies, that is. It beats me why Siam and spinel rubies aren’t keeping pace with Burmas. They’re good enough stones, after all.’
‘Yes, but you wouldn’t pay much of a price for them yourself,’ I said. ‘Burma rubies get the big prices because they’ve got the hardness and refractive power and charm.’
‘Textbook stuff,’ he said contemptuously. ‘I know all that. But what makes the fashion for one gem one year and for a different gem the next? Why should rubies be in now and soon maybe pearls or emerald again? I’ve never got to the bottom of that.’
‘Because the woman say so,’ I said with a laugh. ‘Did you think it was the jewelers or the dealers who made the prices?’
But he was following another line of thought. ‘At any rate, we dealers in rubies and sapphires and emeralds have to be thankful that the precious stones don’t have quite the ups and downs of the others. My rubies, for instance, have been precious since the beginning of time and women have always wanted them.’
‘Do you remember when the scientific ruby, and before it the reconstructed ruby, seemed likely to knock the bottom out of the ruby market?’
‘I heard something about it once,’ said Jacob indifferently. But the gem dealer is not interested in ancient history—anything that happened more than five or six years before—and I saw that I should have to speak quickly to hold his interest at all.
‘Well, it began when the the Frenchman, Professor Verneuil, succeeded in producing small rubies in his laboratory,’ I said. ‘He used inferior, almost worthless Burma stones, which he crushed to powder. Then he introduced a suitable coloring matter and fused the powder electrically. The resulting mass, when it had been cut and polished, could hardly be told from the natural stone. The professor called his products ‘reconstructed rubies’ and took no more interest in them.
‘If it had stopped there, all would have been well. But there was the usual bunch of smart fools with short sight about. One fellow in particular—and I shan’t say who, because I never had any use for him—got to know the professor’s method. He was a goldsmith of sorts, not very good at his job, and he of all men took to making rubies. Naturally he didn’t know any better than to unload his trash wholesale, and when he didn’t make the expected fortune he sold the secret process to anyone who would buy. Of course, rubies went flop.’
Jacob grunted his contempt for all fools, particularly in the gem business.
I said: ‘Well, then this Professor Verneuil was struck by another idea. He started off, not with powdered ruby, but—since ruby is but corundum, after all—with corundum itself. Corundum is a form of alumina, which occurs abundantly in the soil anywhere, so the professor took some alumina, experimented with it for a while, and finally produced the true scientific or synthetic ruby.’
‘And a lot of good synthetic rubies have done anyone,’ snorted Jacob.
‘Well,’ said I, ‘if by ‘anyone’ you mean the trade, I grant you the synthetic ruby hasn’t done any good. But for industrial purposes it is just as good as the Burma, and after all, most manufactured rubies are absorbed by industry. As for the trade, there are the usual tests. By the way, Jacob, I suppose you’ve had the tests applied to your latest acquisition?’
‘Bah,’ said he irritably. ‘Scientific bosh. I trust my own knowledge all my life. You can’t teach the old dog new tricks, my friend.’
‘Precaution is precaution,’ I said. ‘Did I tell you what happened to me? My late partner in Paris had a ruby consigned to him from Amsterdam and I sold it in London to an expert, and he sold it a West End jeweler. All honest men! But the ruby was a dud. The experts all along the line had trusted each other to apply the test. It was the Amsterdam dealer who lost. He’d taken the gem from an exiled Russian Grand Duchess who hadn’t any money to pay him back.’

The Case Of The Nun’s Ruby (continued)